₦airaland Forum

prevail23:
and i gave the mechanic money for gear oil last week o, i no know weda na rubbish him buy put��‍♂️

Jeessuu

Don’t drive more than 1000 miles before you change out whatever fluid he put in there. It will ultimately affect the gearbox. You need 4 cans of original atf-dw1 to change/dilute whatever fluid your mechanic poured in there fast.

New stock available for vehicle drivers and owners.

N120k each

Holla on WhatsApp 08123875859

My father, who was a Biafran soldier during the civil war is still alive today.

He told me yesterday that all the signs that led to the start of the last civil war was already playing out in front of our eyes. He said that the final nail on the coffin wasn’t the coup or the pogroms but the way politicians handled the Western regional election which saw political thugs fighting and killing themselves and innocent civilians all over the region for weeks just because of the elections.

He told me that the yorubas and their penchant for electoral violence was what triggered the war. That if you were in Lagos at that time during the western region election you could not leave your house without seeing headless corpses and perceiving decomposed flesh all over the state. He’s the one who told me that it’s not today that yorubas started liking decapitations

When it come to the story of the war, how it started and ended plus what happened in between, I have first hand information from my dad. And he’s telling me that he is seeing the signs of another war looming over us today especially considering this coming election and the way the breeze is blowing.

Thatwebdev:
Thanks. But since you cannot brake and your steering stiffens, say you're on 100km/hr on a busy road . What do you do?

Once your engine cuts out in motion, there will be a little vacuum left in the intake manifold to power the brake booster at least for 2 more times when you step on the brake pedals before it gets completely stiff. So you’d need to check your side and rear view mirrors first before attempting to ‘time’ the way you use the brake pedal and clear off the road.

As for the steering, yes you’d lose its power but it will still function as if you’re driving a 911 tipper leave the key in the ignition’s ON position exactly as it was when the engine tripped off so the steering doesn’t lock up as you turn to clear off the road.

Sportwin:
Then I feel this vibration when accelerating

Many things can cause this.

Bad/worn out tyres
New tyres not yet properly balanced
Inner Cv joints/shaft getting bad

Check them out one by one starting from the first on the list.

Sportwin:
Good evening
There's this sound I hear when I accelerate after a stop

Like a pom sound

After tightening the exhaust and something under
It stopped

But I plied a road yesterday and the sound is back today

Obviously whoever did the prior tightening of ‘whatever it was’ under your vehicle didn’t do a good job. Take it back to him to inspect his work again and probably do a better job.

prevail23:
Okay boss, will go there Tomorrow,..God bless you.

One more question please, when I'm on moderate or high speed and then i slow down due to traffic or bumps, the car jerks once(after speed has reduced), then continues normal movement, what could be the cause boss?

That ‘jerk’ you experience is your gearbox downshifting from gear 2 to gear 1.

You need to change your transmission fluid fast before the issue worsens and affects your solenoids.

prevail23:
boss please what's the best gear oil to use for Honda EOD 2004?

ATF-DW1. Buy the original one. Fakes abound in the market. Contact luvinhubby here for them.

jceesquare:
This is totally wrong.
Go to Honda place and get same quote then tell me if the technician is wrong for asking for 15k.
My point is, service charge is strictly at the discretion of the technician based on the parameters he uses for billing. You can either accept and give consent to do the job or you decline and go elsewhere. Saying someone's charges are expensive because he/she is not affordable by you is wrong as there will always be someone or organization that would charge higher and or lower for same job.

It’s like you’re missing the point of this sub, this thread was created for people to post about issues they are passing through with their Honda vehicles and also to seek for ADVICE, OPINIONS and SOLUTIONS to their problems.

You are a mechanic and I am not, when it comes to charges clients pay for workmanship I’m sure you’re always going to be PRO BIG-BIG BUCKS so I don’t blame you for attacking me for advising a fellow honda user not to overpay for a simple service.

Look above you, there are posts that I’m sure you could have given answers to but you instead chose to jump them and drag me for advising a fellow Honda user not to overpay for a service. Your prior post towards my mention was concerning me making assumptions oga are you dragging me for making assumptions or for telling someone not to pay too much for a service? Come clean and stop beating about the bush.

If your client drives into your garage tomorrow to change oil and you bill him N100k that is your business BUT when that particular client sees me and asks for my opinion on the matter, I’d just tell him one word . . .

RUN

Before it was that I was making ‘assumptions’ now it’s that I’m low-balling the price of a service . . . Oga you sleep see me for dream?

Please try not to derail this thread, if you see an issue you have an opinion concerning solving please drop it. Don’t come attacking others for giving their own help in one way or another.

Thatwebdev:
Thank you brother. I will call am when I get to the office.

Unrelated: what does one do when driving an automatic vehicle and it turns off while on motion .

The brake and steering becomes stiff what does one do in this situation?

When it happens just immediately switch to neutral and try to clear to the side of the road before the vehicle rolls to a complete stop.

I once had this same exact issue. I changed the entire fusebox and till today it’s been all good

Stubborn82:
Can someone help read these codes, the card is eod, what can I do, my card is consuming too much fuel.

Is your catalyst intact within your exhaust system? Those codes point to issues with both your O2 sensors and they may need to be changed if you have not lost your catalyst yet.

quam9997:
Thank you very much, really appreciate.


I’m going to check the oil gauge from the “check bolt” but I’m thinking of even draining all the oils and put new one make sure it gauged . Then try it after a while, if it persists then will look into the solenoids. I don’t know if that makes sense tho

The above bolded is the right way to go. Make sure the fluid is fresh and properly gauged before shifting your attention to anything else. The fluid is the life of the gearbox.

prevail23:
he changed it today o, but still doesn't select perfectly yet.

What of your transmission neutral safety switch. That cable you just changed actually controls this switch and makes your gearbox enter different gears as you shift the lever. Since the cable is no longer an issue your next culprit is this switch.

It is on the side of your gearbox just behind your drivers wheel and It can either be recalibrated or replaced.

Show your mechanic the picture below and he will know where it is on your gearbox. Let him check it to see if it’s loose or bad.

quam9997:
I used Honda HCF-2 transmission fluid, but I’ll look up on the manual to confirm what you Judy suggested. But could the error codes still be a result of the transmission fluid, as it’s showing that two solenoid being faulty

If the scan is pointing to specific solenoids then that is where the issue is manifesting itself to be picked up by the car’s computer.

What powers solenoids is 12v from the alternator/battery and specific transmission fluid pressures. Sometimes solenoids just get bad and start working erratically before finally shutting down.

Also having low, old or dirty fluid can mess up with the solenoids. Low fluid will need topping off. Old/dirty fluid needs to be replaced and the solenoids cleaned up after the fluid change.

If after you changed the solenoids that first time you had some trouble-free day’s driving the vehicle around before the issue manifested itself again I’d suspect that you bought a bad replacement solenoid BUT if after the change you didn’t notice any immediate improvement that lasted for a few days then I’d shift my attention to the quality of the replacement I just put in before suspecting the transmission fluid or something else.

First of all check the proper way to guage your fluid. The mechanic might have gauged your own like how he does another brand of vehicle

But it’s still very shocking that even with the use of two separate teleprompters tinubu still had to delegate questions to other people to answer on his behalf many times

quam9997:
2013 Honda accord.. I’m not sure the Mechanic replaced both, but at first it was P0796 and after replacing fuel pump and solenoid c .. that’s when the P0966 came up.


Prior to changing the fuel pump, I topped the transmission oil but it was still the same.


Then we later changed the fuel pump, changed the solenoid C sensor, reduced the transmission oil as the mechanic said it’s too much . After like 30 mins everything cleared and the car was fine until yesterday.


It came back with P0796 and P0966 and the jerking started especially when I change gear from R to D (vice versa) and I can’t go further than 40mph coupled with the car dragging before it moves

Baba, remember you’re driving a vehicle with a CVT gearbox. I hope you’ve not used ATF-DW1 in it

If you reduced the transmission fluid I hope it isn’t too low now. Check your owners manual on the proper way to check your transmission fluid level. It’s not the same across vehicle makes and models and your mechanic might be reading its level wrongly. Your symptoms look like it’s indicative of something to do with the transmission fluid not being at the normal level so far you’ve replaced the faulty solenoids with functional units already

quam9997:
Yes .. the P0796 was the initial code of which I was advised to top my transmission oil and also replaced the sensor.

After that the code came back and now the car jerks when I try to push to 40mph and drags before it moves. Like something is holding it form moving well. I have to really accelerate before I’m able to climb some slightly high gallops on the road.


Then when I scanned again which it today, the code is back with 2 others

Okay, so it was only the code P0796 that came up before you changed the solenoid and used the vehicle for how many more miles before the issue returned and the same code came back with the additional P0966 and P0141?

What type of vehicle is this again? On most accord transmissions their solenoids B & C are usually fused together in a single unit and must be replaced as a whole. It’s possible you purchased a bad replacement before.

Mille:
Good afternoon all,

Please I bought a naija-used 2005 EOD in December which I left parked till after the holidays. I need help to know if I'm being taken advantage of.

- The battery is now weak and the charger says he has to change the acid of the battery. He is charging me 4k.

- Anyone with the idea of how much the engine seats currently costs?

- How much max do you think the dents should be fixed?

Replies will be greatly appreciated

If your battery is the type that has those covered holes ontop where the acid can be replaced from then fine, try to get a good bargain and try the battery charger’s option BUT if your current battery is the sealed type then I’d advise you to save up for a replacement battery altogether. For the charger to cut holes on a sealed battery to replace it’s acid is not a good or safe practice.

You have 3 engine seats, front solid type can cost between 7 - 10k, back is around the same price and side should be between 5 - 7 k.

Fixing dents usually is accompanied by spraying. You’d need to let a panel beater assess the issue and give you his recommendation.

quam9997:
These are the codes my small scanner is bringing

From your initial post you claimed to have first scanned the vehicle and gotten a solenoid code which you had replaced before driving for a while and the issue came back again right?

Is this code you’re getting the same as you got before you changed the solenoid before or is this a new code?

jceesquare:
The bolded text is a wrong assumption for a car you've not physically inspected. What if the cable has stretched and needs replacement?

But from the above quote we are both assuming and making assumptions aren’t we?

Fact is if the cable isn’t to be replaced then N15k for workmanship fee alone is high. He should haggle the price down.

Sportwin:
So far no sludge

Or is there something else

I’ve used many types of oil in my engine just for fun. From mobil1 to royal purple to this hardex and even petrocam. Just make sure to monitor its consumption then change it out when it’s time and your engine will be okay.

prevail23:
Good evening boss.

I drive a Honda 2004 EOD.
When i want to sellect gear the selection doesn't correlate with the one showing on the Dashboard, and even if i move the gear and put it on "" or "R" or "N" it doesn't enter directly, I'll have to move the gear handle a bit back and forth while looking at the dashboard and still checking the engine sound to hear or see when it has entered...but when it enters the gear selects perfectly without issues...please what could be wrong? My mechanic was saying something about gear wire and requesting for 15k

There is a cable that runs under your vehicle from the gear stick to the gearbox. If that cable’s tension is a little off or rusted It could be giving you the same symptoms you’re experiencing. Truly a mechanic can go under there and check it out. Haggle price with him. It shouldn’t be too much because the cable isn’t broken and he wouldn’t need to buy any parts.

Sportwin:
Hmmm
So what do you suggest
I have been using hardex 5w 20 synthethic as put on the cover

If it has been working well for you then you should stick to it

baba4thegehs:
Hello everyone.

I hear this strange loud noise when I'm on idle and vibrating mostly in traffic the sound is from the bonnet particularly loud when the AC is on, I have spent almost 100k plus changing all 3 engine mounts, and trying different recommendations from mechanics it stop for like a week and then starts again.

When you drive for 30-1hr the noise becomes louder in traffic.

I don't even know if it's engine knocking sounds, but it's been like this for about a year.

I decided to just ignore and move cause every other thing works fine in the car just the stupid sounds.

Please help

I thought you had decided to ignore and move

Truth is that without you telling us exactly how it sounds like or where the sound is specifically coming from we won’t be able to give you any good pointers here you can record an audio/video and upload to YouTube so we can hear/see what’s up.

of us there is a thread specifically for those who have issues with Honda vehicles in this section , it’s best you post your car sos’s there in the future

Dirtyyansh:
Omo!
This would buy a Toyota carry big daddy 4years ago.
Thanks for the feedback

By the time una vote tinubu to continue where his master stopped you will be buying this same keke with the equivalent amount used to buy corolla today

Gard derm did someone deliberately break off the cover or was it degraded by the elements?

That is the worst looking I’ve ever encountered and plastic doesn’t rust

234GT:
My issue is the oil drying up, while the one that came with the car didn't dry up

Yes I understand. The truth is that no two engines are the same and no two engine oils function alike. Some get short over time and some stay the same level. Some make your engine noisier and some quiet it down too.

Now that you’ve realized that Total’s 5w30 brand of whatever oil you ordered dried up in your engine without leaking or burning then it’s time to try another similar viscosity oil product from a very good brand.

williams20:
Hi Car Gurus,

My Honda Pilot 07 displays
Check engine , TPMS, and VSA. VSA and TPMS goes after after a while and comes back . I have checked pressure and checked tyre . What could be wrong

Tpms has to do with your tyre pressures. If it’s displaying an error then it means one or more of the 4 sensors integrated into the tyre valves are either damaged or missing. To fix this issue you need to check each wheel for damaged sensors, purchase new sensors and recalibrate them with your brainbox.

Your vsa error is the same things as an abs error on other vehicles. There is a problem with your abs system. A technician has to peruse its associated components to pinpoint its issue.

BUT those two errors above are less important than your check engine light. You need to scan your vehicle to know exactly what it’s calling your attention to before it gets any worse.

Sportwin:
What's the oil on your fuel cover
It's definitely not 5w 30

It's 5w 2o

Nevertheless I feel it calculates after miles / distance driven

Might be wrong though

5w20 was formulated for cold climates and to conserve fuel. Those were the main reasons it was recommended for for use that 2008 accord engine.

5w30 on the other hand gives a better protection against wear and tear concerning the engines pistons, rings and cylinder walls plus our climate here is not really one that calls for the 5w20 weight of oil.

Most newer vehicles that specify the use of 5w20 have engines that were created utilizing tighter tolerances between moving parts in the engine. The same engine bearing tolerances that you’d find in the 2008- 2012 accord is also found in the earlier 2003 - 2007 model engines and when those engines were produced they all specified 5w30 for their use.

Today we have oils that are so thin that when you pour it into your crankcase you’d be hearing noises as if it’s water your pouring into your engine

234GT:
Please help gurus.
I got a tokunbo freshly cleared 2008 accord i4 in December. The car was showing 30% oil life, but the oil was not short on the dipstick.
I got total 5w30 oil on jumia on 17th December. I just checked the dipstick now and saw the oil is below the low mark, in just one month. Oil life is on 70% in just one month of usage. I have travelled 1,200 miles after the service.
Is it that I got a fake oil? I am confused.
I also noticed that the cold start noise frequency has increased.

It’s not the oil. That’s just the way your vehicle was programmed.

Your particular model of vehicle was not mandated to use synthetic engine oil from the factory hence the reason for the quick decline in its oil life percentage. It is calculating as if you’re using conventional oil. This doesn’t mean you can’t use the synthetic oil if you wish.

What you should know is that conventional oil is best used for 3 months, 3,000 miles or 5,000 kilometers max. Synthetic oil can ideally go for 6 months, 5,000 miles or 7,500 - 8,000 kilometers max.

If you use synthetic and have not yet driven to 4,500 - 5,000 miles or 7,500 - 8,000 kilometers and your oil life monitor is already below 10% you can just reset it and keep counting your mileage till it reaches the distance for a change. If you use regular conventional or semi-synthetic oil you should strictly follow your oil life monitor and change it when it reaches 10%.

Concerning your startup noise, you need to give an in-depth explanation for us to understand what exactly this noise is.

tochifk:
I didn't get to finish ur article...
But the little I read only tell of how stupid and foolish you are.
My advice to you is to go get a life, cause you are full of bitterness

Just imagine the urchins write up. No single paragraph or punctuation

Those are the kind of people that want tinubu to lead them into soak away pit

Sannisege:
that’s why his speeches are so empty and childish.

Shhhhhh

The problem is from your head. You don’t have a fully functional brain to comprehend what he says. You are the problem and not Peter Obi.