davessales039:


NO.

What you described above is a normal operation.
Infact, it should drop to 800 in fifteen minutes or less. (650 if AC is on)

Sorry, correction, this should be "650 when gear is in D and car is not in motion (brake pedal is depressed)".
Not "when AC is on".
Note -- AC being on shouldn't affect your RPM.

CjEmmar:


I use the recommended Honda fluid, also will a high rpm cause it, because at first start in the morning, the rpm will be around 1800 then it gradually drops to 1000rpm, then after driving for about 30-40mins, it drops to 600-800 rpm

NO.

What you described above is a normal operation.
Infact, it should drop to 800 in fifteen minutes or less. (650 if AC is on)
Edit--
650 when gear is in D and car is not in motion (brake pedal is depressed)"

3, 4, 5 and 6 depend on who is actually interviewing you and what the interview style is like.

I have been to an interview where an argument was intentionally initiated.

Note -- > Argument, not quarrel;
Nigerians seem to take them as one and the same.

Conner44:


I don’t know how to get a video out for you but I can direct you here with little directions. To do this easily you’d have to bring down your gearbox but if you can’t then try the below steps:

Drain out all your gearbox fluid

Get two jacks

Use one to jack up your car at the front drivers wheel and the other one to jack up your gearbox from underneath the engine bay (place flat wood in between the jack and your gearbox)

Remove your drivers wheel

Remove the rubber sand guards/protectors you see there

Take off the black rubber housing covering your transmission range switch and remove the switch itself

Remove the top and bottom gearbox mounts (you’d have to take out your battery, battery tray and intake air filter housing to easily reach the top one)

Lower the jack holding the gearbox from underneath the vehicle so the engine drops down a bit to give you a little clearance

Now undo all the bolts holding the side gearbox housing (on the side where you removed the transmission range switch facing the drivers wheel) I have forgotten exactly how many bolts they are but when you’re in there you’d easily see them

you can also remove all your suspension components on that side like the hub, linkage, shock etc to make more space for you to work

Slide the gearbox cover out from underneath the vehicle to expose the interior part of your gearbox where all the other 3 solenoids are plugged in place by their own bolts)

Undo the bolts for each solenoid, unplug their switches and remove them from the gearbox

Use carb cleaner to blast them clean and make sure you focus on their filter screens/plunger

you would not be able to clean your main transmission filter because that one is located in the interior chamber of your gearbox where the fluid is being circulated proper, hence the initial recommendation to take down the entire gearbox

After you’re done replace all solenoids back in the exact order you removed them

Reinstall the gearbox housing cover and bolts as you removed them in the reverse order and close up your gearbox (remember to use a silicone gasket maker to ensure an airtight fit between metal surfaces)

Jack the gearbox back up and install the top and bottom mounts

Put back your battery tray, battery etc

Put your wheel back properly

Fill your gearbox with 3.5 ltrs of atf-dw1 Honda fluid and start your engine to observe for fluid leaks

Cycle through your gears from P to D1 and back 5 times (while holding your brake) to circulate the new fluid through the gearbox valve body

Take the car for a slow test drive and once it’s warmed up gun the throttle to make sure you engage all your gears up to the fifth

Hopefully your jerk would be fixed as well as every other issues you’re experiencing with your gearbox

note that this fix won’t work if your gearbox fibers/clutch packs are already fried due to prior driving with low/burnt/dirty/fake or unrecommended fluid

The type of solenoids you’re looking to clean is below. Focus on the hole on the top of that black protruding pipe to take out all the debris blocking its free flow passage.

Bookmarked.

Nice and detailed write-up.
Thanks for this.

Replacement oil seal was installed, using a cut-to-size PVC pipe of similar diameter to press it in.
Unfortunately, I couldn't do much cleaning because of the tight position I was working from.
ATF was poured into transmission.
No leak after 24 hours. Will continue to observe it over the next few weeks.

Pics below show the replacement seal after installation.

Update.

Ok. So I eventually did this job.
Got the seal locally; wasn't packaged (probably toks or chinco, I don't know) but it looked solid and was in good shape.

Drained ATF and opened shift cable cover (pic in previous post above). I didn't bother with the link circled red (above) anymore.
I simply removed the 10mm bolt holding the entire attachment to the shift shaft. (better)

Next, I removed the oil seal. This was actually tough; the seal held on solid. Eventually, it came off.
Pic 1 below == before seal removal. You can see the rubber lip of the oil seal (touching the shaft) is obviously weak.
Pic 2 below == after seal removal. No body damage.

Uhmmm...
You may need to repost some pictures of your available stock.... So that we don't have to be scrolling to page one..

Em.. What do you think?

I'm just stopping by to advise all new owners of vehicles...

Never you leave your recently acquired vehicle at a Kazeem's workshop and go home or to the office. Never...
The kazeem will see it as if "the mosque has come to Mohammed "... In other words, as if "Ladipo has landed in his workshop"

Stay there. Let him work in your presence so you know exactly what is/was tampered with. It will make it easier for you to tackle (and/or seek solutions to) any issues that come up later (that's if any comes up).

Infact, seek advice here first before going to the Kazeem.

@OP, reply Gazzuzz with the requested pic asap.
You may need to go recover any stolen parts later... but make sure to avoid that kazeem after that.

All the best.

Piyke:


I haven't worked on my steering rack before o

Oh OK.

However, I did some further research.
My leak comes from the steering rack gearbox. One (or more) of the four seals needs attention and the entire steering rack needs to come out first.

I'm not mentally ready for this task yet, so I'll have to live with it for now.

Bump

Now Available again ...

Hood insulation -- Bonnet Mat

erico2k2:
My Sister is a trader and salon owner, she sells beauty product in PHC, however someone did a transfer which was fraudulent to collect goods from her shop now the police wants to arrest her and take her to Benin where the complainant made a complaint. How do we render this?

That's the problem with Nigerian police.
Why take away someone's freedom based on suspicion alone?

Why are they so lazy to investigate? They are supposed to work with the local PHC police to put tabs on her while investigation is ongoing; not take away her freedom.

I don't think they have any right to take her to Benin just yet.

Please get a lawyer asap.

Sorry I couldn't take better pictures; I was working underneath the car using jack stands only. No lift, so...

However, here are some earlier pics...

Pic 1 -- shows the leak
Pic 2 -- shows the shift cable cover that I had to take off.

erico2k2:

cool stuff, plz take full pic and share

Sure, I opened up the area to assess the condition and to be sure that was the only leak source and not a crack. It was. I took pics too.

Eventually, I didn't replace the seal though; for two reasons:
1. Couldn't get a new replacement yet, (locally)
2. Couldn't yet seperate the shift cable from internal control lever. The diagram shows there's a pin that holds it in, but in reality it seems Honda settled for a more permanent method of holding it in.

So I decided to abort the mission and restrategize; with pictures in hand.

Maybe you and Piyke could lend me some ideas, please??

In pic one, you can see the slow leak. (cleaned off in pic 2).
In both pics, green arrows point to the seal I'm hoping to replace and red arrow/circle show the parts I couldn't seperate.

Dr. Piyke, abeg, I'm having some leak from my steering rack. Will need a little guide fixing it. ��

Would have loved to reach you on Whatsapp, if only I had your contact.
Kindly dm me, please. (contact in signature).
Thanks.

Preping for a shift cable oil seal change later today.
Vehicle -- EOD

Clock spring -- Horn control
7th gen Accord -- Eagle eye

Piyke:


The reasons I prefer 4cyl over the V6 are a couple:
1. V6 equals more parts and tend to have more complaints in general
2. 4cyl has a timing chain which should last the life of the vehicle unlike timing belts on V6
3. More $$$ to maintain V6: e.g. 4 AF/O2, 6 plugs etc. Fuel consumption is really not my issue but preventive maintenance components since I tend to be a maintenance freak.
4. Less space in the engine bay for repairs

I will still come to why I chose the 2015 - 2017 years...

Exactly on point Dr. Piyke.
I also prefer the 4-cyl Accords to V6 and for the same reasons too.
I inspect every wire and hose and link etc on a regular.

Components seem pretty hidden on the V6's.

Phobos19:


I was thinking about checking the solenoids out before the oil change, I shouldn't?

Sure, check the solenoids too.
So you can tackle all discovered issues at a go.

9icetoo:

75k high mileage?

Ha. Those of us wey dey 190k nko?

And us 230k .. Still kicking strong.

Piyke:
This car joined the High mileage club today

Ehhhn. ...... No.

High mileage should be from 100k na?

Phobos19:
I also need to add that the few weeks back, the CEL light was triggered on, scanned and it was the P0685 code on. Drove for a while and it went off on it's own.

Oh, understood now.
That means they are pending.

So, just look into the points listed above and revert.

Phobos19:
Need Help!!!

Car: Honda Accord 2004 2.4L i4
Problem noticed: Car drives well on a free road. After getting stuck in traffic for some mins, hard shifting is noticed (having to get to RPM to shift to the next gear). Then there is a kickback when downshifting (taking the leg off throttle). Once I park by the road side, engine off and back on, it resets. Until the next traffic.
This mostly happens after a long drive

CEL is off
Car scanned: Codes- P0685, P0780, P1734 (PCM/ECM power relay circuit control malfunction, problem in shift control system and shift solenoid valves B and C stuck on respectively)

What's the possible solution to this?

You have all these codes and CEL is still off? How? Or are they pending?

Well, I suspect you have an intermittent short circuit fault somewhere.
Or maybe not.
Difficult to diagnose remotely.

First check for...
- low transmission fluid
- dirty transmission fluid
- leaking transmission fluid
- or maybe you are not using the right Honda transmission fluid. DW-1.
Resolve any accordingly.
If all are OK or if symptoms persist, then DM... Contact in signature.

walestega:
Good evening guys.

Please my Honda Accord 2007 V6 experiences hard shifting changing to 2nd gear. After that everything is smooth. No codes or blinking lights.

Kindly help a brother.

If there are no codes, then check for...
- low transmission fluid
- dirty transmission fluid
- leaking transmission fluid
- or maybe you are not using the right Honda transmission fluid (DW-1).

In any case, change your transmission fluid.
Put the right quality and the right quantity.

=

kevoh:
Good day guys,

I just noticed my Honda City starts to squeak whenever I accelerate. As soon as I take my leg off the accelerator, it stops. Please, kindly any one have any idea what it might be and possible solution. Thanks a lot in advance.

Check suspension bushings, especially control arm bushings.

buygala:


Incoming readers..

Kindly ignore this advice if you are in Nigeria

Get a manual compressor with a worked thermostat and have peace

This is actually the comment to be ignored.

Omicron007:
I have once been held at a knife point.

When I narrated the unfortunate story, some of my guys laughed at me saying I was not a street-rugged guy.

Useless people will always claim what they are not. I bet those your guys would have pee'd their pants.

Michael547:
I'm very certain it's not the brain valve since you dont have any code coming from the transmission.

Nna, what is the meaning of brain valve??

Kingsdave:
Good morning sir's ... Sometimes I always feel a vibration on my break pedal... My ABS has been on since a year plus but recently , when I start the car and the ABS light is off , I will be feeling a vibration on my break pedal for some minutes , after sometime, the ABS light will be back on and the vibration will stop ... What's the cause ?

Do a scan.

tobisunday:
How much is original ball joint for accord discussion continue?

Contact luvinhubby on Whatsapp or call him.
Thank me later.