makavele:
Just joined the R.E. crew yesterday
Thanks to Mr Z for the installation
A petite installation for now but upgrade has already begun in mind !
At least for once, my generator went to sleep yesterday !

Congratulations ! What a Bold step. We all started like dat. Letz see pix of ur system.

I must warn u. Solar is addictive.

R2bees:
my decoder is always showing Lnbf and no or bad signal on my screen, what could be the problem?

1. Check ur decorder-lnb cable & "f"-connector.

2. If option 1 above is OK, replace ur lnb sharp-sharp!.

All this be done while ur decorder is off

Barezzi:


At about N24 per kwh, na only N2,400.
Barely enough for a bottle of wine.

How much your upgrade cost you?

For most of us here, lowering electricity cost is just a bonus of going solar. I believe the independence to use or the freedom to use electricity at will (not just rationed by an inefficient provider) is inspiring us.

Congratulations on your harvest, i know on this forum ur feat is just 4-5 days harvest of some. What am congratulating u for is generating ur needs whether it's 4.5kw/day or 21.9kw/day both ways ur covering ur electricity consumption - ur independence, ur freedom from regimented life.

So Oga idsolar, like Barezzi mentioned earlier, buy urself a fine bottle of wine and well sauced chicken suya for celebration at least that would have been the money pocketed by disco.

I will join ur celebration from here!

harveyspec:


don't see how these questions apply to me o

na DC battery monitor I request to see o

i nor see how compressor con enter the matter

harveyspec:


pls can I see a picture of this

kiekie1:


Its exactly same Dam5reey posted above ... It actually reads DC voltages (120vdc max) .. I have few units remaining if interested !

0.8.1.3.5.0.3.1.9.5.1

just referencing the "AC" under DC meter as shown by sir Frankie.

harveyspec:


pls can I see a picture of this

Are you running DC volts AC?

And do you have idea of the difference BTW
Low voltage AC and inverter AC(compressor-less AC).




Anyway any independence Awuoof sales?

pranil:


Different readymade solutions on the market you can find more

https://www.geyserwise.com/products/pv-water-heating-systems/150l-pv-water-heating-system/

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3000W-Excess-plus-Solar-I-boost-Alternative-Energy-saving-for-water-boiler-infrared-heating-system/32613200769.html?

Thank u.

pranil:



Yes, I am doing that on top of Solar direct heating. I just ordered last week 360 W x 2 Canadian solar meant for heating - Using Victron Quattro and microgrid inverter. The cheap heating element of 300 watts will also be inserted in solar heater tank


But the biggest advnatge of direct solatr water heating is it is not so senstive to direction of teh tubes as the round tubes make efficient use of sunlight . The pV panels have to be orieneted right .

In my case the Northwest side was free and sees enough sunlight for water heating but not for PV production

Am giving pv-dc-electric heating a thought. (CC load dump diverson) or Just 2 dedicated PVs, 12v DC heating element, but still wondering/planning how to work around heating tank. I may do hybrid to AC disabled ariston tank.

At the end, I may end up spending just a quarter of the price of tube solar heater.


Still weighing DIY options

pranil:
Solar Water users? and gurus in the house

How did you connect the inlet of the tank ( cold water )?
Direct to Overhead tank, to the borehole, manually fill using a tap

The reason I am asking is I came across this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Automatic-water-control-valve-solar-water-heater-feeder-assistant-tank/1935638063.html

there is a single and double pipeline model


In my solar heater user manual ( Simba make 120 L - looks like made in China) the manual recommends all filling methods which are manual and the tank has overfill discharge outlet which means if I connect to water source the water will flow out from discharge outlet.

I also believe the tank and tubes can take max 0.7 bar operating pressure. In addition, the water when heated expands 3 to 5 % which means it needs space to go


The system I came across only fills at 0.5 bar and the overfill outlet has to be connected to the 2-foot pipe above water level. I believe the water coulm works as counter pressure stopping inlet water.

I intend to drain the tank from top outlet using a small 300 watt booster to match my house pressure of 2.5 bar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1YFqBl6Cxs




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGmFWMQHHs

sireboy:

the best home made inverter with free installation in lagos , abuja and Edo. contact me for further details.

I don't think ur proud of ur product. We want made-in-nija, buy-nija. Do not be ashamed of offering nija product indians are proud of their achievement/products. So please let us know the specs of ur so called " best home made".

See what Solenergy is doing building 3.5kva something. While their certified panels have not failed me.

We want to be proud of u and put dollars in ur pocket instead of abroad.

udy821:
i even got 20.1amps today but my fone wasnt any where close to quickly snap

JUO:
I like your joy, why? You are contented with what you have and happy at the same time. Congrats

With 2 times of his amps (i.e 4 panels at most 5 PVs), I can power my AC @ minimum speed.

No more NEPA/Disco shakara

Solar surely works!

samnaija:
@efuro you stated placing the rated diode either b4 breaker of the cc. Is at the negative side or positive side. And any idea on the size of the rated diode.

If the cc is faulty and not preventing this back drain how can u detect this. The cc brings out 30-40a on a good day with volts peaking at 125v no load. That's on epsolar display.

Of course fix a diode 50% greater than the upper limits of ur CC on the positive line. Be cautious of it's cathode and anode nodes or better

Rely on ur technician to select and fix an approximate diode.

Or PM me for further discussion.

Remember the thread is tending to "no more free advice "

samnaija:

Thanks for. The suggestion. Will carry out a examination on all the cables. Another question if my panels are setup different sides of the roof. 2 stings on opposite sides of the roof (3*4) config. I have suspecting that maybe the panels that get early sunlight might get pulled down by the other panels that don't have exposure yet causing early morning. Drain. also similar case later at night as sun sets one side still as exposure while the other panels are asleep drainage starts. I guessing this might be culprit. Over to my ogas in the house

The Algorithm of the CC envisages all the fear u expressed. And with your epsolar mppt, ur in good hand except it is faulty.

samnaija:

Your setup is similar to mine. Do you have battery being drained by the panels problems.in my setup during cloudy day or towards the evening the panels drain the batteries. I read somewhere the More u series the more this issue crops up. Anybody with a solution would. Appreciate. Panels are configured 3x4 . Mppt charge. Controller 60a.inverter 48v 200ah..

My setup is 12 pieces of 150w (6 poly, 6 mono) and battery bank of 7200WH@ 24v, plus 2kva microtek inverter, 60A fangpusun mppt. 50A PV/CC breaker, No Mnspd, No router, contactor or automation, etc. Just a simple setup to ensure 24hrs electricity.

However, I do not have PV feedback or at least my CC takes care of that. It rare nowadays to have that problem you described. Most PV have blocking diode at their terminal box. Also, standard CC prevent such scenario. And if that occurs please audit ur setup.


1. Run some test to Confirm if ur batteries are not the culprit, this include leaving ur pv breaker open while discharging ur bank.

2. Did u do + or - ive grounding to ur setup? If no, insulate ur cables with PVC pipe right from the rooftop-combiner-cc and battery etc. If u don't have funds then just trace ur cable carefully for possible leakages. ( option 2 is only where ur CC is not standard or locally built)

My advice
Calculate ur max pv voc and get a rated diode soldered along the cable just after combiner box (if u have) or before ur CC breaker and you will be fine.

http://www.solar-facts.com/panels/panel-diodes.php

Let us know how you're are able to resolve the issue.

udy821:
just dis afternoon d 1st is 19.5amps. 19.5/2 =9.75amps(against d 8.7amps name plate of d 160watts panel) each of 160+150 mono panel(12v)

Cheap/Affordable & high Quality PV modules.
We are getting somewhere in Nigeria.

We must encourage such dealers.


You have given me best news for the week!

udy821:
my oga to b specific its was 10.4A on my charge controller using just one 160 mono panel (12v).my installer did a gud job by placing a plank under d panel to prevent radiation from roof.mind u dis happened on a real sunny day around 1-2pm

What oga DMerciful is trying to clarify from you are:
Is dat 10.4A an instantaneous PV input to CC or is it CC output, and
What type of CC are you using.

Take a look @ 160/10.4=15.9v for a 12v system
Since it is a good-sun-day, letz put PV performance/cabling to 90% . u have 13.8v or floating / tending to absorption where amperage is throttle down instead of 10.4A.

Please take a review of the PV & let's us know the result. In case I need to go after such PV before it's price jump-up.

Best regards

JohnKester:


Harmonise the first bold with the second so we can understand better.

Cheers

oooh

I mean sunshine pv modules

thanks

I has been corrected !

mcci:


Thanks @saipro for your comments

Please make the contacts of this guy who deals in genuine Yingli panels public on this forum

We need to encourage patronage of such dealers no matter how marginally pricey.

Lest people loose faith in RE and waste hard earned funds to dubious dealers.

Sometimes buying PV modules are subjective decision.
We know fast buoys are capable of rebranding best brands.
If he want a reliable PV let him try sunshine solar module. He can thank me when he isolate & test them before incorporating it to upgrading during installation.

I had mixed feelings when I ordered for some( particularly when people believed it is of a lower quality) surprisingly, i had a huge leap in my production almost up to nominal PV ratings. I have since been harvesting my returns immediately. I observed the design of each cells has been changed from previous design thay had.
With that experience, I have since received my fresh order, installed, enjoying my investment.

Depsite bad weather (as if the sun always draw clouds to cover its face) I consistently complete my 2hrs bsorption by 10.30-11am with my 3x4 setup. And always looking for what switch or put-on to keep my modules smiling.

I am not advertising sunshine modules. As DIY I will say the reverse if it is not true, after all it is my investment and my setup.

DMerciful:
Efuro,

always on point on cost and especially the opportunity costs.
I norminate you for the forum finance minister

Hee heee heee

But truly My Bros

I have my 1st degree in Economics (1999)

opeoluwat:
Hi All,

This is to introduce to you Gorilla Ceiling Fans a very efficient ceiling fan that consume 28 watts at full power.
It works very well with Inverters and Solar Power system allows for longer battery backup time. It comes with a remote control and doesn't use regulator.
It has consistent performance even at low Voltages. Operating input Voltages 140V-285V.
The size available is the 48inches span. it matches any similar sized fan.

It costs #30,000
Please contact Ope on 08188723705 to get yours.

Dear marketer

1. You have ideal product but do you have referrals who can vouch for a clean deal?

2. Consider reducing ur price.

Just my piece.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
In my experience No it cannot - as the high voltage alarm on Su-Kam and other indian inverters is set around 15v for 12v, 30v for 24v & 60v for 48v nominal systems.

I hear tell that Microtek (another indian type inverter) can both equalize batteries as well as withstand high voltages - the jury is out on that though as I never tested it.

Again new designs may have overcome this limit but last I checked what I said above is the status.

Microtek has dip-switches charging functions. However, equalization is set using high voltage switch. I have pushed my CC to 30.4v to equalised Ipowerplus and also genius SMF/vrla batteries without the inverter beeping over voltage.

Indians are learning fast.

SolnergyPower:


Sunshine Solar Panels For Sale (Wholesale Price)

Sunshine Solar Panels

Mono Price List

300w mono: ₦65,000
250w mono: ₦55:000
200w mono: ₦43,000
150w mono: ₦37,000
130w mono: ₦34,000
120w mono: ₦28,000
100w mono: ₦25,000
80w mono: ₦20,000

Poly Prices List

300w poly: ₦60,000
250w poly: ₦52:000
200w poly: ₦40,000
150w poly: ₦32,000
130w poly: ₦31,000
100w poly: ₦22,000
80w poly: ₦19,500

Call/WhatsApp: 0803-334-3911. Calls: 0803-860-4143, 0705-315-7206.
eMail: Solar@SolnergyPower.com
Website: http://www.SolnergyPower.com
Facebook: https://web.facebook.com/SolnergyPower/

Thank you for your prompt supplies over the weekend.

It seems You have really improved your poly panels. Their production/performance @ 3x2 out shines my previous mono of 3x2.

Am really impressed and thoroughly satisfied with your after sales services too.

I will not underrate poly panels again.
Thank you.

Anybody with Microfarad ? (450v @ 3600- 5200uf)

Price & gsm

Thanks

mcci:
Good morning beautiful People,

I observed recently that my production performance dropped significantly.
I suspected the panels and on checking the roof I realized that a whole string is damaged.
Please see pic below of the first panel in damaged string.

In your experience what could be the cause of the wire burning in this way and affecting the whole string.

My configuration was 3x2 and is now 3x1.

sorry for your loss my brother.



i will like to know the following:

1. Did you mix PVs of different watt ratings?
2. What is the make of the PV?
3. Did you cut off the MC4 connectors to make ur 3x 2 strings? (check the possibility of insulating tape wearing out and short circuiting the string);
4. Check the surface to see if the burnt section has affected the module (if yes,
you can loop/byepass that section/solar module of the PV, you can PM for a link to how to fix it)?
4. Use screwdriver to Open the Terminal Box and take readings directly from the terminals (you can get a local electrician to read-off amps etc if you can't), (also where you can't get an electrician or a meter, as a DIY -get 12v motor vehicle bulb, wires and trace & check each of the strings within the PV to determines which can be salvaged).
5. You will need to get / replace all diodes. i have seen a case where 2 diodes were plugged in and not soldered in-place and you know what that means).

you will get over it, cheers.

c0ogumo:

*********** SOLAR DEPOT ***********
Your One Stop Shop For Renewable Energy


New Arrival: Victron Energy Products

Visit our website www.solardepotng.com for more info

Thanks!

You have eventually heed our call for pasting ur products/prices but at the third quarter of the year.

mcTrinity:


Efuro, I disagreeingly discord with you (engrish)..

but, seriously... "Group captain"
can you promote Dangote to Managing Director of Dangote Groups when he's actually the CEO

Mbok, biko, please, George is the founder and patron of this group and also the father and grand-patron of DIYs as far as RE is concerned!!!!!!

,

I agree.

He is the true torch bearer and has led many of us out of bondages of phcn/discos/generator importers. ( my fear is that they will soon dump generator importation for solar importation)

Many thanks to him.

oloet:
see free advert for juo, keep it up... one thing I believe in life is that if you work hard, your hard work speaks for you later.... kudos juo!!!

JUO don't need advert anymore. Just label ur product "JUO" and go to sleep with your two eyes closed.
His prices on konga are splendid. Everyday i set my eyes on the items I got from him, I always wish him well.

Whatever you do, people know and understsnd. Pls don't be tired of doing good.

Thumb up to JUO.


@ GeorgeD..

I hearby promote you to the rank of "Group Captain ".
Yes! Captain of DIYs
To be decorated when dollar comes down significantly.

NiyiOmoIyunade:



Often the most economical fallback position is to use your generator for a few hours to tide you over those cloudy no/low sunlight days - if your inverter is slow charging (under 30amps DC), then consider getting a transformerless DC power supply (aka Telecomms charger) - you might need to modify it though to put out a higher than preset voltage suitable for proper battery charging in sync with your inverter.

A better alternative if money is not an object is the Axpert type e.g Zinox IpowerPlus inverter often showcased here by Pranil - the 48v version can put out up to 60amps DC- we use it in our family house to recharge a depleted 48v 200ah bank within 5 hours to battery float/nearly 100% full and the inverter is under 300k - this plus a solid mid size petrol generaror under 200k will give you a reliable backup/fall back position under 500k - even better if you already have a good diesel/petrol/gas powered generator at home.

In my experience I prefer the transformerless DC charging sources because they are more power efficient and appear to put a ligher load/less strain on small/mid size generators. I vividly remember my 8kw generator groaning painfully under the weight of my transformer based mustpower inverter trying to charge at 40amps meanwhile it carries the Zinox transformerless at 60amps without any hiccups.

Hoping to hear from the house if there are other solid transformerless DC chargers capable of >=60amps DC and sufficiently high voltage to charge a flooded battery bank.

Thanks to this thread, my citizens gen set has been on holidays for 15 months counting and want it dat way. Wot has been helping nowadays is 4-5hrs grid and appliances load shading.

For three months or so, I have download tons of YouTube videos of real alternative energy stuff including the self run graphite cell which voltage output i intend to use another CC to tender batteries as alternative to panels.

The need to power A/C and the cost of my vrla battery bank (which i may need to replace in a year or so is almost 500k ) is giving me a thought of moving from renewable energy to real alternative energy through assembling a self power generator comprising an alternator & driving motor as shown on various videos. However, the units I have seen so far are noisy.

Anyway, I have up to a year to work on it. in one of my post last year I made reference to batteries as the bane of solar power. Now I know consistent poor irradiance is the real culprit.

Update on the project to come soon.

ktoby:
Gurus in the house pls help....i got my ups,battery 12v 42ah ND 30amps smart charger yesterday... I plugged the battery to the smart charger to charge but I go home now to see the battery swollen, hot and smelling.

Please Is the battery bad or whta could be wrong?

It a pity.

Any swollen bad is dead. Forget any life support.

Read battery spec next time before hooking it up to chargers

Saipro:
Before I disappear for another week or two, let me share an experience with you guys:

I installed and maintain 3 personal installations in 3 houses (my dad's, a cousin's and mine). We all live within a 1km radius so I just walk from one to the other. Enough about that. I boarded the batteries in mine recently and will soon do a private sale of my dad's batteries (mostly kept on float as he spends half or less of the year in the country).

I went against my initial logic of 6V being ideal for RE (had to consider the cost of available 6V batteries) and used 12V batteries (FLA). No sooner had I began using them than I noticed a wide (wild) variation in the cell states. I did a thorough second check and realised the batteries weren't all I had hoped for. No use crying over spilt milk.

By serial SG measurents in every cell of every battery and keeping tabs on internal resistance and battery voltage, I was able to group them into good, fair and manageable. The problem? I had only one good one and 3 fair ones. The others were manageable. In a 48V system, it's impossible to keep a balanced charge with such variation in cells. I broke the two strings up and split them into a 48V string (the good and fair ones) and 24V x 2 strings. Brought out my spare Xantrex controller and split the PV array in two. I broke out my new backup 24V inverter too (I had always sought an excuse to give it a test run). I ended up with the same power generation and the same battery bank size but at the cost of extra cabling, an extra controller and an extra inverter. My inverters are both PowerStar 3kW (a 24V and a 48W) so paralleling them was easy (held my breathe for a risk-all-lose-all-or-win-all moment when duplexing the output).

Still not satisfied, I gave it some thought for a whole afternoon and evening then came up with an idea which might work. I had spoken with Chris81964 earlier in the day and his home installation gave me an idea - go 24V all the way! I grouped the batteries (which had undergone alternate day equalisation for 10 days; pretty hard on them as I was literally boiling them) into roughly matching pairs in performance and ended up with 4 strings. Drew up an unusual cable path to achieve perfect balance and spent an evening cutting and crimping them into matching lengths (GeorgeD1's equal-link-cable variant would have worked just as well but I'd need lots more 50mm cable or really long and thick copper busbars). Also changed the inverter and CC cables to shorter, thicker cables as I'd be running twice the current thus risking roughly 4x the heating and 4x the voltage drop for high current draws.

The logic? The individual pairs are balance-matched and paralleled with other balance-matched pairs. Each string has equal current draw with the others. The strongest one determines the voltage and keeps the weaker ones from lagging behind. In heavy draw, the strongest takes a bit of a harder hit (but that's why it's the leader). In series, the weakest ones would have given all they had first and subsequently become power pockets or holes in the bank. They'd simply die off after a few cycles and become fast-charging and fast-discharging cells thereafter (having lost capacity) and force the others to gradually become like them. Or become them.

I have posted this to feed the body of knowledge as well as welcome contributions from other members in the house.

PS: The reason I have a 24V inverter as a backup is, if a battery or two were to fail (and they eventually will at the end of their service life), a 24V system is the natural devolution of a 48V system. That would buy enough time to replace whatever needs replacing. And, should the main inverter fail instead, I'd still have an inverter to use.

Truly You have been away for long to know the thread is not what it use to be. "No free knowledge again" so I hear. Anyway sha! some of us know & appreciate passionate ones like you.

More blessings!

khanka:
Please, I am in need of your advice.

I’m thinking of changing my 1.5 KVa inverter for a 2-3 Kva 24V true sine inverter -charger with temperature compensation and multiple charging profiles. I will prefer one with local after-sales support. My budget is ₦500k. Any recommendations?

If you don't mind, pls read 10-15pages backwards & you will find price list of marketers.

We always encourage marketers to drop their quarterly price list on this thread. I hope it will guide you.

Meanwhile, from a similar thread, I recommend anyone of 1-5th mentioned on this link (second hand or not)
https://www.nairaland.com/1931855/need-inverter-house#26833056

abunafiu:
It's a blessing in disguise.

Now I don't want to rely on what I know basically, I need design ideas from Members.

I am not happy at all as cost of building materials are still not pocket friendly.

Pls keep them coming, sketches and pictures.

See Before and after pictures

Wot a pity.

Now you know the kind of wind in your area. Incorporating wind turbine, solar water heater & ur tank will also put smile on ur face against ur loss

By the way, don't be in hurry to errect another. For now just pump to surface tank & save money for real galvanised steel for another overhead structure befitting a legend like you.

God of renewable will put fortune on ur way soon!