₦airaland Forum

Transplant, zero shock

Seedling

Tomato

Little harvest

Six weeks

27 days of harvesting

RIP

Thanks, will get back to you

Pistotita:
Jubaili used to sell 25kg at a good price. But I don't use their feed graded MgSO4 again. One of my boys even called me this morning, and asked me for 1 bag out of the ones I had stored some months ago. I gave him at vrry good price. The issue is that the bag have torn, and I asked them pour the content inside feed bag in 25kgs. If you really need it, I can give you the remaining two bags at a very good price. And that's 50kg which you will use for many months if you are doing small scale. It's in Epe, if you wanna check them first. But you can also choose to have then sent by bus.


Area 11, FCDA Garki, Abuja

Not sure if Liason office in Lagos at Tafawa Balewa is still functional. I think Mines and Steel is also in the building. Not sure as its been long I went there. I usually deal more with Abuja.


Not economical. I think the last time I asked about another brand, 25kg was less than N10,000.

Boss, please where can I get magsul or feed graded Epsom salt at cheaper rate.

Can you also give me address of federal ministry of agriculture in Lagos state, thanks.

I have been using the the pharmacy espom salt but not economical, 300 grams goes for #600. I do enjoy the result though.

kripen:
.
More pic. Observing the leaf will be done 2moro

never joke with magnesium in vegetable farming, its good to supplement magnesium to your cucumber very 2weeks starting from week 4 or when you notice the deficiency on a single plant. This let your harvest stay longer.

jidestroud:
My choice paste tomato. Very high yield, fairly large fruits. Just a variety I would always love to have in my garden.

average yield per plant per kg? How many fruits on average basis? Is it resistance BW and TYLCV?

jidestroud:
Tomatoes doing well, but how I wish I planted my Rio grande. .

I've got to optimize fruit production per plant. This is Cobra and I'm guessing I should be having more fruits per plant. . Did a few hand pollination today, waiting to see the outcome in coming days.

good job, why did you prefer Rio grande sir

I will never compromise pruning in cucumber farming if I'm not farming more then 1000 plants. First pruning, 3wks+ second pruning 5wks. Growth point are more easier cut off during early stage with your finger. It enhance air flow very well. Never joke with magnesium supplement too. With this no need of pruning leaves because you have low occurrences of yellow leaves.

Note: this applicable to predominantly female flower

Happy farming!!!

OluchiDelly:
When I planted my Morano, I didn't take note of d shelf life as I sold it immediately after d harvest. OkoroEmeka can throw more light on dat.
You, said u planted Tokyo, darina, greengo.
People are really condemning Tokyo ds days in terms of DM resistance, greengo is tested n trusted from farmers report.
What about d darina in terms of DM resistance?

if you spray systemic fungicide regularly Tokyo over comes DM

Fungi/raining season cause quick rotten of over matured fruits, harvest them premature, I experience on another variety too

funsoul:
Ist-tokyo
2nd-murano
Am not going out on a limb to say its the variety until I finish this season I planted murano. The environmental conditions where I planted was also different from the first(swampy) which I think made it prone to DM. Even with the Tokyo I noticed on a particular leaf the orangey sign, cut it off and started using fungicides and the season went well. Then I monitored extremely well
About this shelf life of a thing I have planted about 3 varieties (tokyo,darina and greengo)and stored for a week and it didn't rot but with the murano after 3-4 days it started showing signs of rot. Do you think it has anything to do with fungal infections?

austinomd:
Thanks mam for your response, Ibadan is a bit far from me, is there anyone you can recommend in Lagos, it will be allot of good if the recommendation is coming from an experienced farmer.

Many thanks.

0803 679 2125 mile 12 agritropic

like serious my brother, cucmber nah big scam(only lucrative during dry season). Too much wahala. I salute the crooner of cucumber farming on nairaland. I'm still working on other vegetable to know how profitable they are too. Less stress with average return its better to more stress cool returns


Pepper give long cash flow though

Pistotita:
My brother, if you follow the procedure I take to choose cultivars, esp soil test for diseases, and you get a good sprayer, you will get it right. Though still risky. Blight, bacteria spot leaf virus, etc. One must put under shade to prevent rain, prepare to spend about N30k to N50k or even more on only fungicides during rainy season.

If your phobia rate is high, just try 1/8 of a plot at the time you are free. Stake and mulch. You will reap the benefits. I am working on some combos that are beneficial. Something I can do with just rain. You know like cultivars of corn tolerating drought. Yea, working on it. So I can have tomato in dry season and I irrigate like 2 times a week only. Lol. I pray I get it right. And some other aspects.

I really want to go on a course in advance seed propagation in Israel very soon. I want to stay more in laboratories and decision making than on field.

Tomato is fun. Enter it gradually.

And bro. Capsicum is ritual money if you get it right. I do not know why people are doing only cucumber. Why? lol

Good night everyone.....my eyes are already closing.

Organic will make more sense in control environment (green house).
But its not easy to farm cucumber with organic only in open field. Nah big loss o. Insects loves cucumber a lot.

Padma 108 f1 2month ATP

jidestroud:
Would love to see the padma boss, and also could you give a contact or place I can get the seeds from? Thanks in advance.

On the Rodeo 62, sure will...

you can send a WhatsApp message bro, the pic is not uploading here

Pre-order for your five weeks *imported turkeys*.
Quantity: 500 pieces
Price: #3500/1
Location: Meran, Lagos
Contact: 07065317036

More grease to you elbow bro

Most farmers boost of getting 50bags of 40kg from one can (50g) of hybrid (predominantly females) cucumber seed. Its like been a slave to seed company. I shake my head when I see alot of fruit abortion. If someone can't get it right its better to use OP variety or cheaper monoceious. 50 bags from one can its like getting 4 fruits per vine when you have 85% seed gemination.

Gracia

Pistotita:
Lime is alkaline. I measure until the desired PH value is reached. High manure makes me use more, cos it dilutes it. Also using NPK or DAP (acid) balances it. If I do not have PH meter, I just use little quantity like 5 to 10 grams. The issue is that the desired PH most be reached. And my goal is to have more phosphorus and Calcium in there.

Commercial farm add phosphorus and Calcium once in the soil before sowing seeds because both do not evaporate. They are locked in the soil. If you can use soil nutrient test to do this, all that is needed are Nitrogen which can be via Urea or potassium nitrate. And potassium which you can be less Potassium Chloride with MagSul. All is about calculation. I do not guess. And I do not use general prescription. I use optimum values based on readings with meters. PH, Salinity, EC, TDS, etc.

Also I carry out tissue test on my own to know how my plants are taking in nutrients.

Calcium an be via Calcium Nitrate too, so I may just use less. But since I know phosphorus is damn expensive, I use more DAP or SSP, and get it locked there. I check PH again around flowering period to know if I should add more phosphorus and Lime. If I should and I see that I do not have cash for soluble ones that will not change ph, I will pack manure again and blend into it phosphorus and Calcium, and pack round the root. That's it. PH must be within optimum. Get a good PH meter. I don't guess. I am an accurate and detailed person. So, In summary, PH value guides me.

I like the attachment you posted. There are many articles and research papers like that. I read a lot of them. For that particular cultivar, the researcher showed the best way to prune. Now, they noticed that when they removed lower grown fruits from 0-5 days that the flowers at the top start showing, they survive. But if they wait till around 10 days, the fruits down get very big, take nutrients, and the upper flower aborts. aHahahhha! It is exactly what I was saying. Do not let pictures of big cucumber using ruler showing you that one fruit reaches 30cm fool you. It does not mean the farmer is good. In fact, good farmers do not allow fruits to get extremely big.

When the load is high, flower aborts. And I said previously, when you harvest fast, you get more fruits. It is why I love the market that accepts small fruits. Oh Christ. "Oh Jesus, I have promised to serve you to the end......" Hahahaha Enough Fruits. Great harvest.

In one of my posts, I also wrote that if the manufacturer says the fruits can reach 1kg, I will never allow it reach it cos I want the load to be less, so that top flowers don't abort. It is a skill that you just perfect and learn as soon as you get the concept. It is why I emphasize on the concepts first. you are getting IT sir.

But if you are not good, and you prune recklessly, you are doomed. On top, the big fruits that should save you are allowed not to be big. You will relocate to your village by fire by force. Lol. Not you bro, just using second person to express myself.

The concept is the part I have cropped and attached. I am happy some people are getting it.

Note: I may not be able to prune to optimum. Why? Sales has got its time too. It may be twice a week on certain dates. To meet up, I must adjust pruning. So, when I read, I always find a way to apply it to my situation. Of course, I can do it perfectly the way it should be if I have a cold room.

Guys, it is not about jumping into forest. I always tell people. If you do not know the theory, you are gone. You are just an average person. Theory is paramount. If I say I can pull out 1,000 bags from one plot, you better believe it. You better. Just leave me with it, give me rest of mind, let me have a good TV series like game of throne, or breaking bad, my bible, and head phone to play music while on farm. Oh! Give me organic veggie and fruits, and loyal workers, I am good to go. Give me all what I need, do not change it. You will see wonders. But people want subsitutes. Oh! Can I use this instead?

Well done bro for this research paper. Let go!

I heard rodeo 62 produce bigger fruit but not numerous

jidestroud:
Would love to see the padma boss, and also could you give a contact or place I can get the seeds from? Thanks in advance.

On the Rodeo 62, sure will...

+234 803 598 7892 harvest field, berger, Lagos. You get your seed EWS seed at wholesale price there

Kudos!!!
Please how many gram should be put per hole for agric lime, thanks

Pistotita:
Of course limestone will do the job. Also, Cacium Carbonate, Calcium Hydroxide will do it. But these are delicate options. Infact, all Calcium-whatever will do the job except Calcium Nitrate which does not adjust PH. If you know how to use each of them. Hydroponics users use Carbonate or Hydroxide, interchanged with Potassium Hydroxide to adjust PH. While hydroxide dissoves, carbonate does not.

But the best you should use is special Agric lime. It is derived from limestone with primary active ingredient as carbonate. A search on google gave this definition:
Agricultural lime, also called aglime, agricultural limestone, garden lime or liming, is a soil additive made from pulverized limestone or chalk. The primary active component is calcium carbonate

Go to any Federal Agro-Service (not sure of the name if it is correct the way I have written it) in your state and get subsidized fertilizer and chemicals. AgLime is like N1,500 or so for 50kg. The cheapest I have come across. NPK 15 15 15 will soon be banned (I wrote about it in one of my posts, and how I support Audu Ogbeh on this move), so, they have NPK 20 10 10 which is around N5,500 for 50kg in a green bag. Urea is subsidized by some State governments and sold there too. And there are numerous chemicals you will get there. But do not expect to get the powerful and most recent ones. It's been long I used these products since most of my set up recently are hydroponics. Good luck on that.




Tomato
Determinate: I do not prune at all. What I do is just remove bottom leaves if they are touching ground or touching mulch. Also, I remove yellow leaves. That's all. My determinates are special cultivars. My population on 1 acre is always 3,000 to 5,000. So, they are cultivars that spread and gets so big. Instead of fertilizing 10,000 crops on an acre (most cultivars are 10,000 per acre). Just imagine how much I save on fertilizer. Staking is cheap. Horizontal style . Harvest for 2 months. Very heavy!

Semi Determinate: I make my stakes Vertical and Horizontal. No pruning too. Harvest for 4 months. Heavy too. But 2 batches = 4mths of my determinates yield more than one of 4 mthe semi determinate

Indeterminate: Staking is vertical. Pruning is 2 to 3 stems. All lateral branches (suckers removed). And I practise lowering of stems. Same as Capsicum.


Cucumber
Monoecious: Very heavy fruits. I keep one stem, remove 4 lateral branches (suckers) from bottom, and from the fifth up, I leave just one node one each lateral, and I cut off the tip so that growth stops there. If the loads are getting too heavy and I notice fruit abortion, I remove some upper lateral branches completely till its balanced again. When they reach the top of my stake which usually is around 2m high from ground level, I allow it blow out without pruning anymore. If early cultivar and I notice the stems aren't as robust as I want, I remove 2 to 4 female flowers from the bottom. Enzymes help a lot.


Pre-dominant Female: Same as monoecious, except I leave 2 - 4 nodes on the lateral branches. It depends on the sizes of the fruits, and flower abortion rate. Enzymes help in all cultivars to prevent abortion of flowers which is super yield.

Gynecious: Same as pre dominant female

Parthenorcarpic: Same as above, except I do not allow it to blow out if under greenhouse. I lower it like tomato gently. If difficult, I allow blow out. I keep up to 5 or 6 laterals nodes if supplying groceries that want tiny fruits. If the nodes give more than 2 fruits, I may limit the nodes to 2 or 3 too. The idea is that I watch fruit abortion and control the number of leaves and fruits accordingly. I may step up or step down. It comes with experience. It is why the margin of yield is always wide when I am on farm and I handled it personally. My ex workers used to shout in amazement. But I don't shout or blame them if they do not get it accurately. I used to manage them. But they used to improve when they see action live. Cos, it sounds meaningless to spend hours removing fruits and leaves , and spraying different organic enzymes after spraying fungicides and pesticides. But when I am free, and I do it with them, and they see the result, hahahaha...their brains are fine tuned immediately. Funny that they usually tell me after 3 months that "oga, a wan own my farm after this contract expires". And I usually say, fine. Guys don calculate that they can do 1/2 plot that they can handle on their own and make meaningful money. Most are doing fine with Nigerian wives. And eventually, I just assist them get citizenship and passports. So, I have them around me when I need help. I am saying this cos when you do good, you will see the reward. But at the same time, theft is in their blood. So, bearing that in mind, I do not want them again.

aquila3:
weldone sir give thorgal f1 (technisem) a trial, i planted it last year, they produced many and bigger fruits, and they also responded quickly and positively to fungicide than cobra 26 however dont compromise staking.

what's the yield for thogral f1 compare to cobra 26 f1? Thanks.

Did you spray fungicide weekly or biweekly, thanks?

jidestroud:
Tomato Update

Just barely some days after the last updates, I can see lots of tomatoes popping out . We are gradually approaching that time of the year friends and family start calling in, asking of tomatoes from my garden.

The Cobra seems cool though, and the Rodeo 62 ain't bad either. Time to see first hand what the fuzz and hype of cobra is all about!! .
Oh! How I miss Rio grande in my garden . Nevertheless, will be planting a few Roma Savanna to join the lots.

Pictures of Cobra fruiting

corba cool like padma, I will send pic of padma tomorrow.

Please i will love to have more update about rodeo 62, fruits size and fruit's numbers per stand on average basis, thanks

How do you handle pruning on a plot of land?

Good job sir, the lime you're talking about is it the normal limestone for chick or it's a special brand? Thanks!!!

Pistotita:
Requirements for small plots

Note: Learn organic production if you want to live longer.

Open Market Varieties
Yield: My benchmark if using average of 400 grams per fruit is 10 fruits per plant, 2,500 plants per plot. If I do not get 10 fruits, I am not satisfied. If using 250g average fruits size, it will move higher close to 15 fruits. And if I am using parthenorcarpic, if I do not get to 25 minimum, it is not satisfactory. If you put all these together, my standard for a plot is 225 bags minimum. If I mix varieties and at optimum, I should get above 250 bags. And if there is no disease, I will make 300. But I have not attempted to move beyond 1 plot. The knowledge is there, but I do not have the man power presently.

Let me share the procedure with you.

1. Bombard your land with manure. My standard is 1kg per hole. I use piggery manure more cos it is usually free. I do not go near poultry people who want to sell per bag. If using mulch, going to abbattoir and packing dried ones makes sense. That's 2.5ton per plot. I dig out 2,500 holes, and I put the manure there.

2. Add basal nutrient. I use DAP + Lime. Also, you can use SSP + Lime, or NPK + Lime. DAP is the best, followed by SSP. It depends on the soil nature concerning quantity. And this is what separates excellent farmers. Usually, I ask my friends send soil samples so I can formulate optimum nutrition. If you do not use basal, you have lost 10% yield. PH is important, part of the reason I ask for the soil sample. And salinity level is vital. If I noticed your soil is not too good for synthetic, or the organic matters are little, I tell you to go strictly on manure for the first 3 applications. Your soil should be ready for synthetic before flowering.

3. Fertigation with Nitrogen. Urea is the cheapest. Then, we introduce Calicium, Magnesium, and Potassium. We do not joke with Micro Nutrient from the start. I do daily fertigation. Yes, daily.

3. Precaution: Increase phosphorus at the beginning of blossom if you are not sure you have enough phosphorus.

4. Despite using synthetic, there are some strains of microbes that I detected salt cannot kill, and they are effective for fighting numerous soil diseases. We use these microbes throughout the growing period to fight diseases. And I may mix with additional microbes sold by commercial sellers. They also add up in fighting diseases but salt eventually kills them. There is a method for using them. Note. Having a tank for Fertigation and microbes application is vital.

5. Increase Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium from Fruiting to the end.

6. Use enzymes according to flowering pattern.

7. Spray more of MagSul, Amino Acids, Micro Nutrients on leaves, Feed via root NPK and other Major nutrients. I recommend buying battery powered sprayer or knapsack. You may end up spraying almost daily. Not necessarily chemicals, but organic stuff, Amino acids, enzymes to increase brix level of your fruits, Systemic detoxifying and sterilizers to remove chemicals quickly from the plants, etc. I know you no go do am cos it adds some additional cost of production. Lol!

8. Fight downy mildew to almost still with Mancozeb, Matalaxyl, and pyraclostrobin + dimethomorph. If you want 95% to 100% effective synthetic fungicide (will kill downy mildew fast), link up and I will give you the requirements. Of course, you must be on top of your game to use the imported ones. Sparingly you may spray Carbendazim. If battling Powdery Mildew, it is a different ball game. Alternate Contact and Systemic, and Contact + Systemic. Never use Matalaxyl more than two times. Mancozeb should be your main contact fungicide. Very effective, but using it alone or wrongly is not effective.

9. If nematode or worms is your challenge, use Carbofuran in your planting holes.

10. Insecticides: Dimethoate, Lambda-Cyhalothrin, Cypermethrin, Imidacloprid, Methomyl, Betacyfluthrin, Deltamethrin, and Dichlorvos are combos that are very effective.

Open field soil Sterilization, Increase Yield Bastardly
Sterilization of open field is possible. The concept is to use a process which can penetrate a reasonable depth. Eventually, infection will take place for long term crop like tomato since the root goes very deep, but you would have got good harvests prior to this. Some use soil solarizarion, but it is not so effective. The right way is Solarizarion + Chemical. There is a method to flush all the chemicals out before sowing you seeds. It takes, 2 to 3 months process.

If you use this method, you are going on dense population with 30cm emitters distance. And push up your population to about 3,333 - 3,500. And then use parthenorcarpic variety (do not mind the cost of the seeds). There is a method I use and I do not buy seeds. Of course this is beyond the scope of this thread. Perhaps you will make 500 bags, or even more. And you can go like 2 times. What I do is to create another 1 plot far from parthenorcarpic and put monoecious + gynecious, or predominant female flowering there. I make sure both have similar skin. And pack together in bags. So, there are very big and medium sizes fruits in each bag. That is a secret for extreme high yield.

You do not need 6 plots to make it.

You grow in experience on formulation of these synthetic chemicals.

Withdrawal Period is Essential
I hardly release info like this, but I just feel like. Please, do not abuse these chemicals. There are many in the list you should not spray when fruiting. Please, read instructions very well. If you find it hard to use, get an expert to formulate good combos and formulas based on your chosen cultivars.

It is around a week after sowing some tomato seeds which will yield average of 12 - 19kg. I saw two seeds already sprouting this morning. Pictures coming soon.

kingofthemall:
Where do they sell it

SOLEACE office opposite state Abbatior,.oko oba agege Lagos