₦airaland Forum

Muoweta: Found something 2 share with fellow lion owners

An aggressive looking Lion!

It must definitely have a Turbo, V6 or V8 engine under that hood, considering the modification.

Mehn! Thats a sweet ride. Reminded me when I was pulling my dad's 504 GL foreign assmbly. Loved it!

Honestly, if am to buy and start a project car in future, it must be a 504 GL. A "Never Say Die" Lion!

Ikenna.

Stallion77: Thanks alot Ikenna and Sultaan...i will test the fan connection at dawn,and make sure an engine block flush is done.
Thanks again.... But u sha ignored my last question Ikenna.

How did it go? Any improvement?

I didnt ignore your question actually. It just that i didnt want you to come back and say "You sent my car to its early grave", simply because i recommended someone i didnt trust enough not to complicate issues more.

Can you bring the car to me on Saturday to look at it and see what i can do, if the issues are yet to be fixed?

Ikenna.

[quote author=au.hanson]Thank you very much Ikenna, Please which one is phase II.. I dnt mind the 'sr' or 'phase II' , if its clean ..where do u think i can get that? , and at what price? I dnt even mind a 406 if it's affordable and clean?[/quote]PAN 504 series 2 models are: best line, prestige, 2000, etc. Exactly the Muoweta type, above.

You can get a clean one in the East: Enugu, Anambra, etc.

You dont expect to get a clean Nigerian used 406 at 200k without major issues? Your budget can only fetch you a 504, but maynot get you one in good condition as well. You will need to up your budget if you really want to get him a 504 or 406 that will serve him well.

Ikenna.

sultaan: When she said she had someone reconnect the fan, another question from that fix will be if the fan is turning in the right direction.


Whenevr the needle gets half way on the thermometer your fan should automatically come on

A very good point Sultaan. Who knows if they reconnected the fan wrongly by pushing air, instead of pulling air/heat out of the radiator.

Op, someone here has mentioned how to test the working of a radiator fan with a paper or plastic bag, at the other side of the radiator. That will tell you if the fan is sucking air or heat out of the radiator or pushing in air. It will be wrong to push in air, since the fan is mounted behind the radiator, facing the engine. It would have been ideal to connect it to push in air, if the fans are mounted infront of the radiator, behind the front grille.

Start the car, when the fans start spinning, put a paper or plastic bag directly infront of the radiator. If the paper magnets to the radiator, then the fans are spinning in the right direction. If it doesnt magnet, instead pushing the paper away, then it was wrongly connected. The connections will need to be reversed. Its not a big deal. Any clown can do that. Goodluck!

Ikenna.

Stallion77: Thanks a mill Ikenna...yes the temp guage goes above the middle of the guage wen car is in motion 50km/h and above.

It was bled by loosing one small bolt near the top of the engine that trickled water out wen water was poured into the radiator.

Is there somewhere u can refer me to in abuja pls?

From the answer you have given us here, your fans are not the cause of overheating. If the car is overheating at such speed, then the culprit is somewhere else, not the fans. Though, am not saying the fans maynot have issues as well, since we are yet to know the connections done on those fans.

As for what you said about how the car cooling system was bled, it sounded like he did bleed it from the right place with the right method. But since i dont know much about Japs cooling system design, i wouldnt know if that bolt he used was actually the bleed screw or if there should be more than one bleed screw. In Peugeots with EW10 (I4) & ES9J4S (V6) engines, there cooling systems have 2 bleed screws at different locations. The two screws must be bled one after the other. I donot know the bleeding process of your Honda. You may have to google it to find out.

As for suggesting a workshop for you in Abuja, i hardly do that. Those clowns are good at putting people in trouble. I cant vouch for any of them, including those at APO. Am not saying you cant find a good one in Abuja, you just have to take that risk till you find one, because am yet to find one i can vouch for. They are good in some areas, but not in delicate or sensitive part of cars like cooling system, EFI system, etc. If your car was a Peugeot, i would have asked you to bring it to me over the weekend to deal with it myself. But thats unfortunate.

Ikenna.

@ Op,

There is a simple method of checking if the water pump still works or not, without pulling out the pump to check the blades. Pull out the thermostat or open the thermostat housing. Some coolant will flow out, which is normal. Have someone crank the engine for you, while you stand and watch from the engine bay. As soon as the car starts or the engine starts running, the coolant or water trapped in the engine block will start flowing out like a river via the opening of the thermostat housing. Shout on the person that starts the car for you to switch off the engine immediately, so that the whole fluid in the block doesnt flow out.

If fluid flows out well, then your water pump is intact. If nothing comes out or if dripping small small water, then you have your culprit: failed water pump, likely, worn blades, as a result of water. Constant use of water in the cooling system will rust the water pump blade and the blades will disintegrate over time.

Ikenna.

[quote author=dan_dollar]my radiator fan doesn't come on even after idling for like 15mins.is this normal,please?[/quote]No, its not.

Do you use only water or coolant in the cooling system?

If you use only water, thats what you get. If you use fake coolant, you get that too.

Ikenna.

Stallion77: I thought both fans should be on as soon as the engine comes on... cos the last time i discovered that it overheated, i checked and discovered one of the fans was disconnected so i asked someone to connect it thinking that was the cause for overheating. so honestly,i dont know what to think again cos i have had the radiator washed and flushed....all to no avail. my next move is changing the radiator as they said it is rusted and not working well, then probably check the water pump.

Before you take it up with your fans, you need to clarify something for us.

Does the needle in temp guage goes above the middle of the guage when the car is in motion (like above 60km/h) or does it only rises above middle of the guage when the car is stationaly? If the car overheats when the car is in motion (about 50-70km/h), then your radiator fans are not the issue here, because those fans shouldnt be spinning or running when the car is in motion at such speed, unless your A/C is on.

You said the cooling system was bled before you while you watched, how was it done?

Your fans arent suppose to start spinning as soon as you start the car. If that is what is happening in that engine bay, then you are saying bye-bye to that your engine, poko a poko. They need to be reverted back to the factory connection. Running the fans constantly wont stop overheating. If there is a problem with the cooling system, the system will boil like hell, whether four fans are spinning constantly or not.

There is a way you can know if the fans you said wasnt running when you checked, still have the original connection to the factory trigger. I have treated this recently in a similar topic. Its very simple. It will also help you to know if the thermostat is still in that system or have been removed. If its there, it will also help you to know if its working or has failed: stuck closed or opened. Though, it will be difficult to tell the difference between a stuck open thermostat and a system that the thermostat is lacking or been removed. In that case, you may have to open the thermostat housing to find out.

If you are very sure that you have tested for head gasket failure and it hasnt failed, then your issue is a minor one. You just need to do the right thing at the right place and you start smiling again.

That clown that told you to replace your radiator with the double cell one, what did you call him again? Mechanic? Is that how to solve a problem?

The rusty coloured water you see in your radiator was not formed in your radiator, rather, around the engine walls, as a result of the water you use only. The more you use only water, the more you see that terrible colour. It will get to a point, some tiny passages that the fluid flow around the engine wall/block will get clogged/blocked by those things that look like sand in the radiator, which will start a terrible overheating, more than the one you are experiencing now, if that is not the cause of the overheating you are having now sef. Tell that your clown to flush the cooling system by removing the drain plug/bolt on the engine block. Removing the radiator hoses is not cooling system flushing. Big quantity of fluid is still trapped in the engine block. Those are the ones that clogges the radiator or contaminates the fresh fluid when not flushed out. And the fluid in the engine block is the one that traps air in the system and needs to be bled out. So, let him do a thorough flushing and bleeding.

I would advice you use water first after the flushing and bleeding. Then test drive it a day or two. iF the overheating problem doesnt happen again, then you can take it back to him to repeat what he did: flushing and bleeding. This time, refill the system with coolant, a good one.

I still need you to answer the questions i asked above to know how to deal with your fans issue, if there is any issue with them.

Ikenna.

tpacalipse: Those who believe that Japs craps are easier to maintain shud examine their heads. I have had auto gear problem with my camry for two wks now and yet, the fault has not been solved. Now the car can't even get to where it can be scanned. next time I am buying any car with ma mony, it's gona be a benz or volvo.

Lol! No let them hear am o!

Among my colleagues in Abuja, am the only one that drives a Euro car. The rest drive Japs. 3 of them have replaced their auto transmissions (2 Toyotas & 1 Honda). The 2 Toyotas engine also failed and were replaced as well. Funny enough, none of them do long distance journy with thiers. But i travel a lot with mine. My engine and transmission are still in tact, still run like new.

When people come here to seek advice on cars they want to purchase and ask people to choose for them between a Euro and a Jap car. 98% will recommend Jap car for the fellow, with their funny reasons & paint the Euro car as most unreliable one could think of. If the fellow "mistakenly or in confusion" ended up buying a Euro car instead. Guess what will happen? Every minute of the ownership of the car, he will be looking out for signs for the claimed "unreliability" he gathered. When a fuse blows, he would shout "they warned me o!". When a brake pad wears off, he would blame himself for making the most terrible mistake of his life, purchasing that car. And when he takes the car to a mango tree mechanic and they connect something awful there and the car starts misbehaving, he would put it for sale right there and end the "nightmares" he was warned would come if he venture.

But with Japs, even if his shock absorber keeps failing everyother day, he finds it "reliable" and wouldnt mind replacing them every month or so as they failed, forgetting that a Euro car owner would found replacing strut every month as something fundamentally wrong he cant live with, since he only gets failed struts in his vehicle once in how many years.

My point is, no car doesnt have its weak point and strong one against the other. You cant say one is better than the other in all ramifications. Thats a blatant lie to me. You see people telling you that his car consume less than the other, when he didnt consider the two cars engine size, cubic capacity, car weight, transmission type, state of the engines, state of the EFI systems of both, etc.

I dont condemn any car or brand. I just like one particular brand which gives me all i wanted and needed out of a car, most especially, what i get behind the wheel.

The fact remains, anyone who cant maintain a Euro or an American car doesn't deserve it. If you want something good; something classic or something safer, it will cost you more to acquire and keep in good shape, running as long as you want. You dont expect to sit on a first class seat on a plane & enjoy the goodies that comes with that seat, when you couldnt afford it. The air hostess will pursue you like a madman comot go economy seat.


Finally, get a car you can afford, fuel and maintain. But dont ever think that the other car or brand is not as good as yours simply because you couldnt afford to buy or keep it on the road, because some people could and aint complaining.

Ikenna.

Stallion77: I thought both fans should be on as soon as the engine comes on... cos the last time i discovered that it overheated, i checked and discovered one of the fans was disconnected so i asked someone to connect it thinking that was the cause for overheating. so honestly,i dont know what to think again cos i have had the radiator washed and flushed....all to no avail. my next move is changing the radiator as they said it is rusted and not working well, then probably check the water pump.

Dont waste your money replacing what is not faulty, i mean your radiator. What you think is rust is not rust. Its as a result of water you are using in the cooling system. Radiators dont rust. Use only coolant and save yourself the wahala. There are some few coolant in the market that are already premixed, so that you wont need to mix them with water again. TOTAL coolant is one of them. But i gathered that some vehicles comes with different colours of coolant other than green. So you will need to know which colour is made for your engine, since the TOTAL coolant in Nigeria is green. There is one terrible coolant in Nigerian market, stay away from it. Water is even better than that acid. I dont want to state the name here since am not faceless in this forum. I tried that coolant and it was worst than using only water. Water alone takes more than 20 mins for the temp guage to rise to the middle. But that coolant takes close to 1hr to do so. Only God knows what else it does on the cylinder head and it gasket. If you want to know the name, PM me.

As for the issue with your cooling system, it sounds like a lot of abuse has been carried out on the system, starting with the water you use only. I really dont get some of the explanations in your posts.

Will get back to you, when am less busy.

Ikenna.

ikeyman00: @@@

yes bro ikenna



well i never ask her to remove the thermostart; i said change which means replace right?

I was referring to your method of bleeding the cooling system while engine is running. Am not sure which brand of car that is safe to do that, but Peugeot is not one of them.

Ikenna.

ikeyman00: @@@@

and u might consider changing ur thermostat ? before bleeding

bleeding should be done when the water is circulating to drive out all the air so the engine should be ON

Hmm! Nwanna! I dont know about that one o!

Ikenna.

Muoweta: Thanks Ikenna d oil pressure light only comes on when d engine is idle. It goes off when u push d trotle pedal or when u move d car

You still haven't given me the answer i needed. Since you said the oil pressure warning light only comes on when A/C is switched on, i would like to know the engine speed of the car at idle when the A/C is on. Let me put in another way, how high or low does the engine sound when the A/C is running? Too low that the engine would behave it want to go off? Or does the sound remains normal when you switch on the A/C?

Am asking this question because am familiar with that engine; grew up with it and knows how it behaves. If XN1, the engine in 504 & 505 PAN production, is tuned low via carburettor, that warning light will come on after some minutes of the engine running, whether with A/C on or not, as long as you are not accelerating. You can hardly know the engine speed, since most of the models dont have tachometer, to know the rpm at idle, except TI (foreign assembled 504 with mechanical fuel injection engine). So, the mechanics would tune the engine from the carburettor by mere listening to the engine sound. But after a while, the tuning would go off, if at all it was tuned properly. Tuning XN1(A) is not a childs play. A difficult task,i tell you.

Their is another way to know how good your oil pump is on XN1 or XN1A. I believe yours is XN1A, since its phase II, unless it was modified/converted to phase II. On the cylinder head, behind cylinder 1, there is a small pipe that connects the cylinder head and engine block, around temperature switch. The pipe has bolt on each end. To know if the oil pump is failing or pumping oil well (good pressure), start the engine, leave it at idle and loose one of the bolts a little with 13 flat or ring spanner, i think. The force at which oil flows out from the bolt will determine if the oil pump is still pumping oil well, how good its doing that. It maynot be the best way of knowing the correct oil pressure, but it will tell you whether you should worry about the oil pump or not.

Ikenna.

[quote author=au.hanson]Thanku Ikenna for this thread. I live in PH and my Dad lives in Calabar, He has a pegeot 504GR whom he loves and cherish so much , but recently he was very sad as the engine of the car parked up and needed a new one ..I dnt know where i can source the engine for Him , and preferably a new body too or alternatively, i dont know if i can find an affordable good 406 Peugeot for him at a price range of about 200k..A lion that wud not give him headache?[/quote]Tokunbo XN1 engine can be found at Onitsha, including a clean full 504 body. But you may end up spending more than 200k to get those two.

The best engine to rebuild, as far as Nigeria is concerned, is XN1, including other Peugot engines. They have original standard piston & sleeve set in the market. But very expensive. But if one can afford it, you will enjoy it more than the tokunbo engine. But it also depends on the condition of crankshaft. Since its PAN production, the crankshaft will be inferior one. He may have to buy the foreign one that has drilled holes, for proper oil circulation and lubrication on the crank journals and bearings.

Rebuilding XN1 with original parts will cost nore than tokunbo engine. Am talking about 100k +. Because, i dont know the condition of the engine block, camshaft & cylinder head. All that may have to be changed. But like i said, if you rebuild an XN1 with original parts, the engine will start running as it was when the car was bought brand new. I have experienced it.

Buying an engine and replacing the body sounds like a project. Its not something you will expect your dad to go through at his age. Best thing will be to buy a clean running 504 at that price range and work towards replacing the engine with a tokunbo one, when you can afford one. If i were you, i would look for a GL for him. He will love it. But getting a GL in good condition will be very difficult, almost like impossible. But if your dad is not a stunt man, get an SR or phase II 504 for him. The GL is for those that like catching fun on the wheel. The model posseses so much power and handling for an I4.

Ikenna.

Muoweta: Thanks Ikenna d oil pressure light only comes on when d engine is idle. It goes off when u push d trotle pedal or when u move d car

XN1 usually does that when the engine speed at idle is very low. If the car has tachometer, I would like to know the rpm when at idle, with A/C on & off.

I dont want to conclude it as an Oil pump failing symptom, when i do not know the engine speed at idle.

Ikenna.

ymb1: Dear All,

Pardon me for not going through all previous posts, in case this issue has been discussed in the past. I escorted my friend to his mechanic on Saturday for servicing of his car and an interesting argument started between the two most senior Ogas in the workshop.

One said it is advisable to use injector cleaner at interval when fueling and the other says he do not recommend the use of injector cleaner at all.

Dear experts and experienced in the family, INJECTOR CLEANER; to use OR not to use

Rgds,

ymb1

For me, there is nothing wrong in using injector cleaner once in a while, but my concern is what you pour into your fuel tank in the name of fuel injector. Most of them do more harm than good. Thats why am of the opinion not to bother using any, if you are not sure of the quality, unless you wouldnt mind to be doing valve job every now and then, including replacing the injectors.

A good fuel from good fuel station would have fuel additive that cleanses the fuel system. Avoid buying fuel anyhow.

If your fuel injectors are not giving you issues, leave it as it is. If you get a good fuel additive/injector cleaner you can vouch for, please use it. But like i have noted, a good fuel does the job of an injector cleaner as well, even better.

Ikenna.

azpekuliar: Is this another Ikenna?

No, he maynot be another Ikenna, but he knew what he was saying. Toyota Sienna is a minivan. Sedan/Saloon,not all though, are more designed for speed.

Its so funny the way people come to assume what caused the accident. Of course, if you are a fellow that do long distance driving a lot, you will know its wrong to claim overspeeding was the cause of the accident. Only a driver driving a vehicle involved in an accident would know what caused the accident,i.e, if he survives it and remembers it. We can only guess unless you were looking at the when it suddenly happened. So many things can cause accident on expressway/highway, other than excessive speed.

I wonder why people would always use the word overspeeding? Overspeed is when you push your engine harder than designed for. Each engine has its speed limit. Over speeding your engine limit will wear the engine faster and will fail sooner than you expect. Car A engine overspeed is different from Car B engine overspeed.

How many of us carry out a study on a vehicle before we purchase them? Do we really know what we want in a car? Whats the vehicle coming in for; purpose? If you are the speed type, do you check to know the vehicle's spec; what it can do and what it cant do on high speed?

Please,if you know you have plans to buy car tomorrow, and you have plans to be doing trips with it or you like putting stunts on the wheel while on high speed, like swerving out of potholes on high speed, please and please, look for a car with variable ratio steering/speed sensitive steering or servotronic steering system. They will save you a lot on highway. Take it from me! Thats one good thing about most Euro cars with high powered engines, designed for speed. The steering becomes heavy when on high speed, to prevent the car swerving into the bush or turning over the front end to the other side, unlike the normal PAS (power assisted steering) that will be too light as it is when on stationaly & on high speed. But i believe some Japs would have that as well. You just have to carry out a study on cars and what you need from one, before you make your choice. Dont buy because "Everyone drives it". If you want Toyota Camry, look for one that has specifications that will serve the need for wanting a car. If you want an economy car, the one you wont spend more than 1k to fuel and maintain for one month, then forget about doing high speed when you get it. You cant gain everything. You gain some, you lose some. If you want a vehicle that can take all the stunts you put on the wheels, no matter the condition of the road, then go for one that will cost a little bit more to fuel and maintain. Some vehicles on highspeed cant maintain stability when they have blowout, while some will maintain their stabilty, be it the front wheel tyres or rear wheel ones.

I was driving to Enugu from Abuja sometime last year. Somewhere around Ajaokuta in Kogi state, a sheep jump out of the bush and stopped. It was too late for me to do anything, at the speed i was doing, i didnt bother to touch the brake. The next thing i heard was "Kpum!" . My car ran over it. The car didnt behave as if it ran over the sheep, as such high speed. I didnt feel anything on the steering wheel, neither did the car shake or lost control. I kept on moving. After few kilometers, i stopped, came out to check the damage. It was then i saw part of the skin of the sheep on the front number plate and some on the oil pan, meaning the car hit it and it went under the car, yet the car behaved as if nothing happened. Not all cars could handle this. Trust me, i have driven a lot of cars in the past on highways, had accidents and knew what caused them. My point is, anything can happen when you are on expressway or highway. How good your car is or how good you are bebind the wheels on highway is what takes you and brings you back home safely, most importantly, God. But then, you do not take God for granted. Dont assume "Its not my Portion!". Do your bit first, and expect God to do the rest.

Finally, not all cars are rides. Also, not all rides are performance cars. You need to know which one you want, what it takes one to keep them on the road and their capabilities on highspeed.

Ikenna

I now have a diagbox, properly installed and running, thanks to bigx, t-die, peace777, etc. It took about 10 persons to install xp on/partition windows 8 laptop and install the diagbox. No be small thing o! Most especially, bigx & t-die, i didnt let them rest until i got the diagbox running. Thanks all.

Ikenna.

Muoweta: Hello Lion owners,I'm happy 2 be member of this family. Pls I need help as regards my oil indictor light coming on when ever I switch on my a/c.Its a 504 best line.... @ Ikenna gritinz... Mouweta frm Edo state

You mean the oil pressure warning light? Does the car have tachometer? Whats the rpm when you switch on the AC at idle? Does the bulb lit when you are accelerating too?

Ikenna.

olashow: Hello house,

My car: 2004, Peugeot 407, 1.8l petrol.

Scan result
(1.) Pedal sensor incoherence of signal 1 and 2.
(2.) Permanent fault- RCD line control.
(3.) EGR solenoid valve control open circuit or short circuit to earth.

Symptoms: car suddenly stalls, revs up to about 1500 rpms and never higher even when accelerator is fully depressed. Car goes back to normal after turning off for approx 5 mins.

I hope someone can help.

08062629890.

No idea.

Are you a member of aussiefrogs? If you are, repost this there. If you are not, register. You will get answers and solutions immediately there. 70% percent are Peugeot expert; fix their lions themselves. Find the link below:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12

My lion dont have these components. So I know little about them.

Ikenna.

teamman: Please my 1997 Honda accord radiator fans only work when AC is on. I decided not to use the AC yesterday and the temperature gauge rose up. Please help

Radiator electric fan has a trigger, apart from A/C compressor switch. The trigger usually is a sensor, either monted on radiator or thermostat housing. Please, dont misplace the temperature sender & CTS as the fan sensor trigger. Though, in some brands or cars, the CTS also serves as the radiator fans trigger. I dont know the electric system of Japs.

Check if all the sensors on thermostat housing or radiator still have their wiring connectors/sockets well plugged in. Start the car, allow it to idle till the needle on the temp guage reaches middle of the guage. If the needle starts to exceed the middle of the guage and the radiator fan doesnt start spinning, then the fan(s) have lost trigger. Either the trigger sensor/switch has failed or the connection is lost somewhere/broken wire/failed relay or blown fuse.

Have you tested to be sure the thermostat still opens? When the temp guage is about to reach the middle, the lower radiator hose should become warm or hot, just like the upper radiator hose. When that happens, it means the thermostat valve has opened to pass hot coolant into radiator, while the water pump flow in cooler coolant into the engine walls from the radiator before the thermostat valve closes up. But if the lower radiator hose still feel cold when the temp guage needle is at the middle, then your thermostat is stuck closed. It will need to be replaced, before it blows off your head gasket.

But if the upper and lower radiator tube/hose feel the same from when the engine is started cold till when it warms, then your thermostat is absent.i.e. your thermostat has been removed, meaning, be ready for engine replacement or engine rebuild soon. Goodluck.


Ikenna.

we we: Your multi functional display has 3 little bulbs, the brightness depends on the numbers of working bulbs out of the 3 bulbs. Go to any correct peugeot part dealer to replace the dead bulbs and if after replacement it still doesn't display properly, you have to get another multi-functionall display. It is around 4K-5k here in Abuja (Apo). Please make sure you test it, it is not enough to be displaying properly, it has to sync (ie work) with other controls and gadgets like the steering multi control, the car stereo, your CD loader etc ...
Finally make you change the lauguage to English ....lol so that you car will speak the lauguage you understand.
Please pardon my technical terms, I am new to peugeot thing, I joined Lion Owner club like 3 weeks ago

To support we we, find the link below:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88646

Ikenna.

we we: Your multi functional display has 3 little bulbs, the brightness depends on the numbers of working bulbs out of the 3 bulbs. Go to any correct peugeot part dealer to replace the dead bulbs and if after replacement it still doesn't display properly, you have to get another multi-functionall display. It is around 4K-5k here in Abuja (Apo). Please make sure you test it, it is not enough to be displaying properly, it has to sync (ie work) with other controls and gadgets like the steering multi control, the car stereo, your CD loader etc ...
Finally make you change the lauguage to English ....lol so that you car will speak the lauguage you understand.
Please pardon my technical terms, I am new to peugeot thing, I joined Lion Owner club like 3 weeks ago

In addition, I gathered from Apo too last year that liquid airfreshner damages that screen. I dont know how true it is, but it wont cost us anything to place such Airfreshner far away from the screen or not mount them directly under the display screen, since the liquid tends to drop. I would do that if i had Lion with that multi function display screen.

Ikenna.

abdulkadir: Abeg Ikenna dont invite Trac here! He's too "evolved" for dis guy.
i havnt seen his post in a while whre d guy dey?

Have missed his posts too. Will fetch and drag him back to the section.

Ikenna.

[quote author=Adura_ngba]Why do you people call these mechanics clowns? very un necessary. clown because they are doing what? Guess you will be ok if someone calls you a black monkey.[/quote]From your post, one could tell that you are just a novice in autos, who refuses to watch and learn. We were all at your state of confusion before we got to were we are now, we the little we have in auto industry. But "Watch and learn" is all you need. Dont argue what you have no clue.

About the clown thing, yes, i call them clown. What about it? I dont know your definition of a clown, but i will tell you mine. A clown, to me, is someone that does silly things to make people laugh. Now, majority of Nigerian mechanics suggest silly things to be done in people's car or carryout those silly things on people's car that can be so funny to me, even though they will end up bringing sorrow to the victims.

*A mechanic that suggest that I remove my v6 engine and swap in I4 fuel carburetted engine, simply because he couldnt troubleshoot and fix an injection issue with the V6 engine, is a Capital big time clown to me.

* A mechanic that removes engine cooling system thermostat, for the engine to run without the thermo, is a clown to me.

* A mechanic that tells you your engine is overheating, when the temp guage is indicating 90 degree celsus, since he believes normal engine temp is O degree celsus, is a clown to me.

* An auto electrician/technician that bypasses all EFI sensors on the engine, just to make the car run at any cost, is a clown to me.

*etc.

I can go on & on, but am not interested in convincing you. To me, clown is an understatement. Go through the front page of Car Talk section and see what people are going through in the hands of those clowns. A colleague of mine who used to drive a Nissan Maxima drove into a mechanic workshop in Abuja city, days later, he had to tow the car out the workshop to another workshop were the abused continued. A car he drove into a workshop couldnt be driven out of the workshop anymore and you want me to call them what? Babies?

Right in front of my house, someone drove into a workshop there with a KIA Rio, a clean one, just to have an issue sorted out. Days later, the owner came to pick his car, after he was repeatedly told it wasnt ready yet, only for him to find out that the engine had knocked. Only God knew what the mechanic did to that engine. I got to know about this because the mechanic sent someone to ask me if i was interested in buying the car without engine at 300k. That was when the story was told.

By the time you become a victim, you may come back here to give them a better name.

About your other post with this Injector nozzle thing. One thing you should know about me is that "I dont believe everything i read", neither do i want you to believe mine. Fixing cars is not some exam hall you enter to impress the examiner. Its not some theories you read up online, believing that what it is. Its a practical thing. Go through my post, whatever you see there are knowledge gathered while working, repairing, troubleshooting or fixing my car myself, over the years. I cant tell you what i read online if i have not carried out the experiment on my car. There are new EFI components introduced in newer cars, which mine dont have. In such cases, i would simply tell i know nothing about them or wont comment. Some of these online articles on auto repairs are contradictory. You will only get to know which of them is true when you do the work yourself.

Are you trying to tell me that once you have those symptoms enumerated in that blog, it must be a fuel injector failure issue? Nne, you still have a long way to go.

Again, you dont just clean the nozzles of the injector, you clean the injector. Nozzle is a part of a fuel injector. The cleaning start from the top till i gets to the bottom where the nozzle is. Are you saying only the tip of the injector, where the nozzle is located, gets clogged? Before fuel gets to that tip (nozzle), it passes small injector filter on top, fuel valve & valve spring, before it gets to the nozzle. Are you saying the filter doesnt clog too? Na wa o! Please, when an injector is giving issues, it has to be cleaned. Spraying carb cleaner on the tiny hole called nozzle doesnt get inside the entire injector. When you want to clean your body or have a bath, do you just clean your feet?

And you still dont get it. The name of the component is fuel injector, but the clowns call them nozzle or injector nozzle. Honestly, if you cant understand the simple English am using, how would you understand Trac's posts? Lol!

Ikenna.

[quote author=Adura_ngba]an average auto driver like me dont understand all this big big grammar and definitions or part what knots. Come down to our level. Someone said there is nothing like an injector nozzle but then defines those things as injectors with nozzles inside them. so, why are they not injector nozzles then? Pleazzzeeee come down to our level. If I take my car to the mecho, and he says he needs to clean my injector nozzles, should i then begin to argue with him when I aint no mecho? Break it down for us in plain language which is how the Naija mecho communicates to their clients.


Why do we still have to call it Injector nozzle?

The name of the component is Fuel Injector, not nozzle. It has tiny nozzle inside via which fuel sprays into the combustion chambers. To the best of my knowledge, there is no component in EFI car engine bay called Nozzle or Injector nozzle.[/quote]Na wa o! I don hear am today!

Let me try again.

The component on the engine called Fuel Injector, your mecho /clown or Nigerian mechanic calls it Nozzles. It is on this thread that i realised that they have upgraded it to injector nozzles, which is not even close. I will explain.

Again, the component on the engine called Throttle body, your Nigerian mechanic calls it Injector. When you open your bonnet, you will see something that looks like a cylinder, the tube from AirFilter box connects to it. The throttle body is mounted on the intake manifold, likewise the injectors. Let me not confuse you more. Will leave it at that.

Now, the new name "injector nozzles" means: the nozzles of the injector or the nozzles on the injector. What they mean is " the injectors of the throttle body or the injectors on the throttle body". Unfortunately, the injectors are not mounted on the throttle body (except the cold start injector), they are mounted on intake manifold, the same way throttle body is mounted on the intake manifold. Each of the components does its own work, though dependent on each other to make the engine run (mixture of air & fuel in intake manifold). That is, injector brings in fuel in intake manifold, while throttle body brings in metered air into the same intake manifold, where the air and fuel now mixes and then goes into the combustion chambers via intake valves.

Now, would you say because the uninformed people call Vulcanizers "Forkniser" and you now call them the same because that is what everyone calls it?

Ikenna.

pak: @Ikenna,
I was quite surprised when you cautioned against the use of fuel injector cleaners. All along I've been told its a good practice to at least do so once a month so much so that I actually have a 'reserve' bottle in my car all the time.

First off, I travel a lot and I start to panic when my car passes the half tank line so I don't think I ever driven my car on reserve tank, not even during fuel scarcity.

two, I only use one type of injector cleaner, can't remember the name but its green in colour and I make sure I buy from NNPC mega station (in Jos) to avoid being sold fakes.

three, my fixation for that type of injector cleaner came over a year ago when I used the cleaner after buying a full tank. Believe me bro, I immediately noticed significant gains in fuel consumption and I wasn't just imagining things, I actually have a scan gauge fixed in my car that monitors fuel consumption in Km/ltrs for every trip. Right now, I have purchased a total fuel injector cleaner to be used on my next refill (since I can't get my preffered choice).


Also, many of the sites I checked actually recommend periodic use of fuel injector cleaners like the one below
http://fuelinjectorcleaninginfo.com/


Please will you care to shed more light on your stance for the education of forum memebers

It appears it you didnt undesrstand my ealier posts here. I said, do not buy and pour in anything that has "injector cleaner" stamped on the label. I never said dont ever use injector cleaner.

Most of the injector cleaner you see in car parts shops and some filling stations are mere chemicals mixed together to destroy people's vehicles. There is a popular brand i do not want to mention its name, but what is inside is just some colours and stuffs that will try to clean off dirt, but will after create more issues. There are so many of them out there. Some have good reputable brand names, but they never came from those companies. You should understand me now.

My point is, if I want to buy TOTAL fuel system cleaner, i will visit any of their stations and buy it from there. I wont buy any brand that is not Total in that station, neither will i will buy the Total fuel system cleaner from the market or car parts shop, because what may (most times "is", not be from TOTAL. TOTAL will not sell you a product of theirs in their station that will bring bad name to them and kill their business. But if you buy another brand from TOTAL station which is not theirs, you are on your own. Workers or managers of some filling stations bring in their goods like the injector cleaner to sell to customers when their company own goes out of stock. Some will even advice you to buy the one without their company's name, even when the company one is available, staring back at you as you are refilling your tank at the pump. Been there.

Even in US, a lot injector cleaners that dont work are their in their market. Techron is of the best so far acknowledge to be safe to use and will do a thorough job. From reviews, others were reported to clean the injectors, but would cause more havoc after. Techron might not be the only good one out there, you will just have to find them.

I dont see how your injectors will get clogged when dirts are not getting there. Thats the work of fuel filter. Yes, an injector cleaner will decarbonise your combustion chambers, only if its a good one.

Ikenna.

eleven: Woah...Its like this topic is discussing my current experience.

My CRV 2002 model suddenly developed a problem in July last year.

The problem is the car doesn't idle. When you put in the gear the RPM drops to zero and the engine goes off.

Also I can't drive it at holds up...its hell. The only time I can drive it is on a free way and the fuel consumption is very, very high.

I have dealt with different mechanics and rewires none have been able to successful solve the problem.

In July last year, one of the rewires change the Idle Air control valve which seems to work until December last year...between then and now I have bought 2 Idle air control valves without results.

It will work but after a day or 2 the fault will resurface.

They have serviced the noozle (or fuel injector) countless times without permanent success.

Infact they just returned the car today since yesterday washing the fuel tank and changing the fuel pump.

I am suppose to test it tomorrow to know if the problem still persist.

To be honest, I am dead tired...not too motivated to drive it but would try all the same with the hope that it works permanently this time around.

Here is a picture of the Idle air control valve changed twice now without permanent results

So much waste of money!

IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) are not usually replaced. Cleaning it with carb cleaner would bring back to life.

Oil residue from crankcase, via oil filler cap or cylinder head, would always accumulate in the IAC. After a long time, the oil residue will make the valve inside the IAC to become sticky. Thats why the car would stall immediately deacceletate or apply brake, since the solenoid is no longer supplying enough air into the intake manifold, to maintain the idle or the load added to the engine like A/C. The valve inside the IAC would close and stopped air from passing through the IAC to the intake manifold, when you are accelerating. But as soon as you de-accelerate (stop accelerating), the valve would find it difficult to open because the oil residue will make it sticky. So the engine will lack air and goes off. The IAC knows when the car is accelerating via the work of TPS (Throttle Position sensor).

So, that clown should have cleaned the IAC with carb cleaner, allow it to dry, lubricate the valve inside, before re-installing it on the engine. Thats how i clean mine, and never had to replace it.

The problem with your vehicle could be IAC or other related components that would give such symptom when faulty, like MAF, leaky vacuum lines, etc. But did the clown checked to know why the IAC is clogging at that small space of time?

I would advice you run a scan.

Ikenna.