₦airaland Forum

Kingsley adima: Der was a day I started my car and it made a strange noise in de top section of de engine for about 3minutes immediatly after starting $ dat was de only day it made dat noise. He was der when dat happened and said its because I used de wrong oil(quartz 7000) and I should change to 5000.
What do u advise? De car has a mileage of over 200,000km but de engine is still very sound.
Thanks

About this, the noise could be coming from camshaft, pulley, roller, etc. A failing bearing could make that noise- referring the engine rollers or pulleys. Likewise, a worn camshaft would do that as well.

If it was the camshaft that made that noise, it means that shaft was already worn before you switched to 15W 50. But since 20W 50 is thicker than 15W 50, it was preventing the shaft from rapid wearing, because of its thick viscosity. But we don't know yet what made that noise.

But how was the engine taken care of before the oil grade switch? Was the engine running cold more than it should? Was the thermostat removed? Were you using only water in the engine cooling system? Was the fan connected to spin constantly once the engine starts running? Do you rev your engine immediately once the car starts every morning? No matter the oil grade you use or even if you change your engine oil every week, once engine is getting such abuse enumerated above, you will experience camshaft worn or failure, including other parts of the engine that need constant lubrication as soon as the engine cranks or starts running. Engines hate to run cold. It increases friction and dies faster. Nigerians take engine cooling systems for granted, which ends up putting smiles on our brothers faces that sell used or tokunbo engines. Its not their fault, anyway.

Anyway, the noise could be anything. It may not even be from inside the engine. Since I wasn't there, I wouldn't know.

Ikenna.

Kingsley adima: Hi ikenna,
Tanx 4 ur good work here.
I have a 406 with XU10 engine. I did my oil change recently with total quartz 7000. My mechanic is now insisting dat I should not have used de 7000, dat its too light/thin for my engine. He is saying I should use quartz 5000 instead sinsce its ticker. I don't understand his point since I have read de post u did about de types of oil.
Der was a day I started my car and it made a strange noise in de top section of de engine for about 3minutes immediatly after starting $ dat was de only day it made dat noise. He was der when dat happened and said its because I used de wrong oil(quartz 7000) and I should change to 5000.
What do u advise? De car has a mileage of over 200,000km but de engine is still very sound. He said if I travel with it $ de engine gets hot de oil won't withstand de heat since its light/thin.
Pls wats de right oil or thing to be done in dis case??
Thanks

0W 40
5W 30
5W 40
10W 40
15W 50

Listed above are oil grades recommended by Peugeot for their petrol engines in 406 phase II (*warning* Fuel economy oil/synthetic oil should not be used in EW12).

All oil grades listed above are synthetic oil except 15W 50 which is synthetic based/semi synthetic oil. But we also have 10W 40 that is mineral oil.

Lets talk about 15W 50 (Quartz 7000). Before that, i will explain what those two numbers means. The first number (before W) is the blend that gives cold weather protection, while the second number is the blend that suits hotter temprature. If the average cold wheather temperature you get where you stay is about 15 degree celsius and above, and the average hot temp doesnt exceed 50 degree celsius, then the 15W 50 is the best oil grade for your Lion. The same applies to 0W 40, 5W 30, 10W 40, etc. Fortunately, am not sure there is any part of Nigeria that gets cold temperature as low as 0 or 5 degree celsius, no matter the season (raint or dry season). So you dont have to waste your money buying the expensive 0W 40, since you dont need it. I dont know about the part of the country you stay, but the average wheather temperature in Abuja is between 17 & 38 degree celsius. So if i have the 406 V6 phase II today, i would use 15W 50, both in rainy and dry season and would change the oil once every 6 months or once a year, depending on the usage but never less than 6 months.

20W 50 is a thick oil, a mineral one. Its usually recommended for high mileage car, depending on the condition of the engine. Most high mileage car have the tendency of oil leak or shortage. If the cylinders are well tight on the sleeves or cylinder walls, the engine seals could get weak and start leaking oil gradually, depending on the usage, especially the rear main bearing oil seal. When a car is parked for a long time without running the engine, the rear main bearing oil seal would, most times, get dry and crack when next the engine runs. Engines are designed or meant to run, to keep all the seals in good shape. In a case were you have such oil leakages, thick oil would be suitable for the engine, pending when the failed seals are replaced. Using thin oil in such cases would dry off very fast and send your engine to its early grave. There is no much difference between 15w 50 & 20w 50, except that 15w 50 flows lubricates faster during cold start, and also its synthetic based oil (highly recommended by Peugeot for these engines), while the 20w 50 is a mineral oil, a multi- purpose oil.

As for what your mechanic said about 15w 50 knocking your engine when the engine gets hotter on long journey, ask him what does viscosity means? Clown!

Ikenna.

Siena: Does this Toyota Corolla have an engine?

Lol!

Ikenna.

[quote author=au.hanson]Pls does anyone in the house knows how long this oil,(quartz 90000 0W/40 and "Quartz 9000 5W/40, a fully synthetic oil, cost 8k (though, 5 litres)" ,can be used in a vehicle before changing it? can it last 12- 15 month like mobil 1, because mobil 1, 4 litre oil price is outrageous in Nigeria.Can it also be used in a benz 190 and c class product? your answer is highly appreciated[/quote]This is not the right thread to pose these questions. We dont discuss anyother brand other than Peugeot here. Thanks.

Ikenna.

Everfrank: Thanks for the response Ikennaa. The issue is that the kickstsrter won't even turn fine. It only makes a ku..ku..ku..ku a kind of noise, as if the battery is weak. That is it appears very weak to turn the engine. The engine won't even crank. And my battery is sound.

From your description of the symptom, the issue seems not to be from the starter.

There are 3 ways of finding out the culprit with such symptom and also know if your starter is the culprit.

1. Run a direct wire or bypass wire from ignition switch to starter solenoid from the + battery terminal. If the engine cranks when you do that, then the starter is not the issue. But if it still does the same, then the problem could be from the starter motor or solenoid. But since you have refurbished the starter and replaced it twice and the problem persisted, then i rule out the starter.

2. Check the battery negative terminal (-). How clean it is? I would advice you replace it, even if it looks good. What about where the ground wire from battery negative terminal is bolted on the engine block? Unbolt it, sand-paper it and bolt it back. Make sure the two surfaces are not corroded before bolting it back. If the starter doesn't get enough ground on the engine block, you will have such symptom.

3. Like i mentioned in the 1, there is a wire on starter solenoid that comes from ignition switch. But it first gets to a relay before stopping on the solenoid. Get a DMM (Digital Multimeter), set it to 20volts, pull out the socket of that wire that comes from ignition switch from the solenoid, place the red lead of the DMM on the wire from the solenoid and place the black lead of the DMM on battery - head (or simply ground it on any metal surface of the car or engine clean enough), have someone crank the engine for you (which wont crank anyway). As soon as the person turns the ignition switch as if he is cranking the engine, the DMM should display 12v (12.60 v or so). If it displays anything less than 12v, then starter is not getting enough required volts to turn the starter motor. If you get such value on your DMM, i would start with the relay starter.

If the relay starter is not getting enough volts on the relay pin 3, then it wont send more than 12v to the starter solenoid and you will get such symptom you are having now. It could be that the wire has burnt or has broken partially.

If the pin 3 relay of the starter is getting the required volts from the battery + terminal, yet the starter solenoid dont receive upto 12v from the relay, check if the wire from the relay (pin 4 or 5) to starter solenoid is in good condition. If its burnt or broken ineternally, you will get a similar symptom too.

Make sure the 2 battery terminal heads and the wires on them are not corroded. Clean them well with water.
The starter would manage to crank the engine when is cold. But once it becomes hot, it would need the required volts to crank the engine, which it isnt getting. Also, when engine is hot, the corroded wire sockets tend to lose contact or pass less values to the other socket attached to (male & female sockets).


I have had similar issue, and the 3 steps i stated above was i how i diagnosed, found the culprit and fix it. Goodluck.

Ikenna.

Elsafema: this is the car i hav bn using for past three yr now i know when the car is over heating and when the temprature is normal. I notice i hv travel for 3hr with high speed and the temprature is normal from indicator, but i also notice i drove just 15min in holdup my leg was on breake and temprature rise from the indicator that i hav to pack and when i open radiator water started goshing out. It has hapen severaly like this.

Were you expecting the fluid in your radiator not to gush out when you open the radiator cap when the engine has run for mins? Engine is made to operate well with hot coolant, so what do expect the coolant to be? Cold like ice block?

You have an issue with your vehicle, you are asking for help, but you seem not be interested in the help been rendered. Everyone is asking you a simple question but you prefer to hear something else from them.

That you have driven your vehicle for 3 years doesnt mean you undestand the vehicle well, which is very glaring so far from your responses so far.

You need to tell them the level of the temp guage after few mins of engine running, to know if your engine has been over cooling, running normal or overheating. That the temp guage needle was always resting on the coldest zone of the temp guage for the last 3 years doesnt mean its normal. 95% of engines i have come accrossed were designed to run well at 90% celsus ( usually at the middle of temp guage).

Either you allow them help you diagnose your car online or you take it back to those clowns that will send the car to its early grave. Its your call.

Ikenna.

You have not really said anything, because your post contradicts the topic.

What exactly is the problem with the car? Is it that the car doesn't crank or it cranks but doesnt start? Engine crank and start are two different things.

Ikenna.

olashow: thats great! I'll really appreciate if I can get the chance to meet you any time you are free sir just to discuss somethings about my issues.

Have a nice weekend chief.

'lanre.

Ok. You can always reach me anyday, anytime. My contact number & e-mail are below, on my signature.

Ikenna.

olashow: Hi Ikenna,

Please can you recommend any good Peugeot mechanic that can help me diagnose/fix my peugeot 407. I'm in Garki Abuja.

08062639890.

I stay in Garki too. I have Diagbox which is all you need to diagnose your car. But am still trying to learn how to use the diagbox. There are so much the diagbox can do, aside reading error codes. Its really a complex scanning tool. I still need sometime to learn how to use it. Its very technical.

Ikenna.

wellscon: Hi Ikenna.

My 307 steering just became heavy this morning as if driving a trailer.I observed a leakage on the floor of the oil.What could have cause this leakage?

The leakage could be from the PAS pressure hose, rack, ram or pump.

Buy any cheap ATF fluid, refill the PAS reservoir, leave the bonnet open, start the car, leave it to idle, come to the engine bay and observe or check for the leak. You will see it. If you do not see the leak, ask someone to help you turn the steering wheel, from one end to the other while the engine is idling, once the tyres start turning, the point of the leak must definitely show itself. Goodluck.

Ikenna.

karaye: @ikenna,pls my 406 2001 back doors are locked.have try my best to open but couldn't .so I can't take any one @ back now.pls I urgently need your assistance on how to open it.thank you as I wait your response.

Have you pulled out the fuse box and checked all the fuses?

One thing I know in D9 is that the door central lock is controlled by the BSI unit. But you need to start with the fuses.

By the way, have you tried to reset the BSI umit to default? We have treated it here before. You need to go back and start from the first page of the thread. Even, the link to BSI manual was also provided here too. The manual will teach how to reset it and what not to do that could malfunction your BSI unit, like what you are experiencing.

Also, you have have downloaded the 406 facelifted repair manual, you can as well check for how to diagnose such issue. I believe its there. So far, I have read upto page 100 or so. Am yet to read the body repair section/pages.

Ikenna.

sultaan: Choose the one you like

Good answer.

Ikenna.

[quote author=t-die]Lol. Though if you watch the w124 taxi chase sequence (Taken 2) closely, you'd notice that both the pre-facelift and the facelift versions were used interchangeably... Poor acting in my opinion. I promptly reported it on moviemistakes.com.
Anyway I'm getting myself a w124 for my birthday in July. Though it'd be an e320 Stick shift.
Am also ordering a complete c43 Bodykit from the US to go with it (see pix). Would have to use oga inspired and probably have them fit in the bodykit before shipping down to Nigeria... And then I'll race your 505 V6 or your 406 V6 [/quote]Wow! See machine!

I didn't even notice it was 2 w124 that were used as 1 in the chase in that movie. I was so carried away with what the vehicle was doing, whenever the girl push the car into a corner. Very amazing!

As for racing with my Baby, the 505 V6, we shall see about at. But it may be with 406 V6 stick instead, when I eventually get one, since I pamper my 505 V6 a lot. I don't want any scratch on her. I still wear her Pampers.

Ikenna.

^^^^

After watching Taken 2; after seeing what w124 was doing in that movie, i strongly agree with you, that w124 was over engineered.

An old car but really like its handling/character. I love what the rear was doing when pushed to a corner on high speed, while been chased, coupled with what the girl was doing with that stick. RWD can be such a fun to put stunt on in a corner!

If am a Benz fan, i would surely have the facelifted w124 in my collection, a stick V6/V8 one.

Ikenna.

Note:

If you already own any of those car models and you are yet to experience it (if your car has done more than 150k kilometers), either the engine has been replaced or rebuilt by the previous owner(s) or its likey to visit you soon. "Its not my portion" no dey for dis one. Though, there is nothing prayer cant do. But just be ready, incase the miracle no come happen.

By the way, dont rely on odometer while buying any of those cars. Only few honest Nigerian car dealers dont roll back the odometers of cars they sale.

Ikenna.

[quote author=dave.emuobo]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_AZ_engine

Unfortunately ,a host of other Toyota cars use that same engine..and painfully upgrading is the most proffered solution..eg for the rav4 or highlander,replace engine to the v6 one.God save us.[/quote]Hmm!

The link listed number of Toyotas that have that engine:

1. Lexus RX: 2000 - 2003 models

2. Toyota Camry: 2002 - 2009 models

3. Toyota Matrix X, XR & XRS: 2009 - 2011 models.

4. Pontiac Vibe: 2009 - 2010 models

5. Toyota Corolla XRS: 2009 - 2012 models

6. Toyota Camry Solara: 2004 - 2008 models

7. Toyota Highlander: 2001 - 2007 models.

8. Toyota Rav4: 2004 - 2008 models

9. Toyota Avensis: 2003 - 2008 models.


Like i have earlier noted, find out the engine inside the engine bay of any of these Toyota vehicles listed above, before you purchase. They all come with other engines other than the dreaded 2AZ-FE engine. If you cant identify the 2AZ-FE engine from others or how it looks like, avoid any of those models with 2.4 L engines, Unless you can live with the issues it comes with: replacing your engine or rebuilding it after a short period of ownership.

Ikenna.

Raymondenyi: Dat means honda is a better car! So I'll go 4 it then! Honda, here I come baby!!!! ( What about camry 2.2 (big lite) is it a better car? Becos I actually had that in mind!

No one is comparing brands here. Thats not what the thread is about. Even that Honda has its own issues.

My purpose of creating this thread is to make Nigerians realise that one needs to carryout a thorough study or research on any car one is interested in before purchase. Go beyond what colleagues, neighbours, friends & Nairaland say about a particular car or brand. Check reviews online from people who have used the car before, look out for negative comments and not just for the positive ones. Anyone telling you a particular car is perfect must be a liar.

Dont buy a car because the brand is known to be good. They may have some of their products that are mistakes.

Always pay attention to every details in a car you are interested in buying: the engine size, model, fuel system, cons & pros, etc. Dont fool yourself, every car must have cons & pros. You check the cons, to know if the issues are what you can live with or deal with. If not, walk away and look for another.

Most importantly, dont buy a car because everyone is buying and using it. Because no one will come to replace or fix that car for you when it starts dealing with you.

Do your own homework well before deciding which car, with what engine to buy.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Guess dats the price to pay for having a car one is in love with, its like a guy marrying a girl of his dream... He's just got to give her ALL D ATTENTION. More to the point, I think that just how expensive these parts are can only be truly measured by their longevity in relation to average Toyota and Honda parts(which are definitely cheaper). I definitely know that an owner of any of the 1999-2002 models of toyota camry & honda accord would change his shock absorbers at least 1 additional time before a 406 owner does. most Mercedes Benz owners cant even remember ever having to change parts like shocks or timing belts. My point is that there are CARS & there are cars, one may have to do a comparative check on the cost of Peugeot parts and the average life of these parts in comparison with other brands of cars with 'cheaper' parts. Lets also realist that because Japanese cars are more common in Nigeria their parts are more available in the second hand markets in comparison with the peugeot wit relativey fewer cars in the country, hence factors of demand and supply Viv-a-vis price. Lastly i really do think that the cost of Peugeot parts in Nigeria is directly related to its being a goverment brand over the years(issued to the Army, Navy & Air force Officers)...and with all the corruption in our country especially in government circles... our beloved Peugeot somehow got in the mix. If it were possible to check the sales record of any known dealer I can bet my next months salary on the fact most of his clients are government boys spending government money

True talk my broda.

I would rather spend more to buy a part that will last ages, than spend a kobo to buy fake part that will keep embarrasing me every now and then it fails.

Most of my car parts, i buy them from US, not minding the cost of shippping, as long as they are genuine parts and i wont have to go back to replacing them anytime soon.

Ikenna.

Lets not forget that its not only the Carmry 2002-2006 model that have that engine. Toyota Highlander 2001-2007 models too have it.

So before you buy any Toyota produced between 2001 & 2007, make sure you know the engine in that car. If its the 2AZ-FE 2.4L I4 engine, run for your dear life!

The Highlander '01 - '07 & Camry '02 -'06 models have other engines other than this 2AZ-FE.

Ikenna.

hrmkz: it is called factory defect.

Meaning, even if you replace the engine 10 times, it will still happen on each of the 10 engines.

Ikenna.

Find link below about this Camry model, especially the 2003 model with 2,4L engine:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry/148454-camry-with-stripped-head-bolts/#post1242970

Be careful with your choice of model and engine, if you must drive this Camry model (Big for Nothing).

Ikenna.

Find the link below:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry/148454-camry-with-stripped-head-bolts/#post1242970

No wonder Camry 2.4 L I4 engine (Big for Nothing) cost fortune in Nigeria, because of its frequent failure & high demand.

I would advice, if you must buy that Camry model (Big 4 Nothing), avoid one with 2.4 L engine, I4 engine entirely or any Toyota with that particular engine, 2AZ-FE.

Just saying.

Ikenna.

I visited ASD Motors Abuja (Peugeot Dealership) at Area 10, this afternoon, to price a part for someone. I then used the opportunity to price other parts some of us would be interested to know how much they cost, i mean, original PAN parts.

Below is the breaksown:

1. 406 ket set (ignition switch with two keys & for the doors, boot,etc, excluding the key fob): 45k

2. 406 Key Fob (aka key remote or pad): 18k for just 1.

3. EW10 Timing belt (only): 14k

4. EW10 Timing belt kit (belt incuding the tensioners, but excluding water pump): 28k

5. EW10 Water Pump: 18k

6. EW10 Set of Piston (4 Pistons, including the Rings): 85k

7. 406 Shock Absorber or Strut:
Front: 48k (for the 2)
Rear: 32k (for the 2)

8. BSM Unit (Engine fuse box or PSF unit): 45k



So, we now know what it will cost to original of those parts above.. Dey cost no be small!


Ikenna.

chima12: Issues with peogeot 406 [1998]automatic
I was informed by a mechanic that Peogeout 406 [1998 model]automatic has serious issues with its gear box and that buying 406 auto cars is not advisable.How true is this?

The mechanic is right.

Ikenna.

nony30: Seriously,guys ‎u neeD τ̲̅ȍ do away with 504/505s.even when I'm thinking 406 is out dated and trying τ̲̅ȍ get a 407! •̸№ insult meant pls but those cars belong τ̲̅ȍ d museums now.

No insult meant indeed!

Last month, i sold my 605 of 1990 production and kept back my 1987 505. What does that tell you? You should have known that not everyone reasons or thinks like you; not everyone lives rest of his/her live trying to impress everyother person.

You dont have to tell the whole world that you are not a car enthusiast. Thats what you have achieved with that your post above. Because something is new makes it better, in all ramifications? Even with all the safety stuffs in newer cars, yet we have more records of deaths via road car accident now than in the '70s & '80s. The older cars even without air bags in those decades, were able to save/protect the occupants from heavy impacts, since their body were strongly designed to do that job, unlike now that newer car bodies have become plastics, where even the air bags would burst when rolling over or on a serious impact.

By the Grace of God, i will still buy more cars, even brand new ones or the plastic ones. But no one of them will ever replace my 505, as long as God still gives me the resources to keep it in good shape.

Since the topic or the thread did not state any Peugoet product that would be discussed here; since you are not comfortable seeing the figures 504, 505 or even 403 mentioned here, you can start a thread on strictly Peugeot 407, 408 or 508, since you are already ashamed of owning a 406.

Ikenna.

Stallion77: After the bleeding of the engine block...i believe it has stopped overheating...But i have a question to ask pls... After driving for about 10kms and park, when you feel the fat pipe that connects from the top of the radiator to the engine...is it supposed to be strong when u squeeze it or soft? Cos i know dat dat its usually soft wen the engine has cooled. So does it mean anything wen d engine is hot and its firm? as in, hard to squeeze? Or is it just normal.

Am not sure i understand what you mean by "fat pipe that connects from top of the radiator to the engine". Do you mean the upper radiator hose/tube?

I really dont know about the firmnes and softness of a radiator hose when hot or cold. But i believe when a rubber or hose is hot, it should be soft, right? Unless they have removed your car engine cooling system thermostat, making the fluid running inside the system to be cold all the time, thereby making the upper radiator hose to be hard to press in when engine should have warmed. Or that the radiator fans are spinning constantly as well, preventing the engine, via the coolant, from warming up to its optimal temperature.

One thing i know is that when you have air in the cooling system or when system is overheating, the upper hose will expand. Then, when your cooling system is loosing coolant, the upper radiator hose will shrink or be pressed in on its own, when the engine is hot.

Ikenna.

Stallion77: Ok...I get it. I did the radiator fan test...the fan at the driver's side sucked in the paper but the other fan did not suck it in as sharp as the other one did and it did not blow it away either the sucking in was kinda weak... But both fan speed are thesame.

"..both fans speed are the same"

*scratch my head*

Ehhh! Which side of the radiator is the A/C condenser mounted? Or does the condenser have the same length of the radiator, at the other side? That is, if the consider is still there, since you are no longer using the A/C. I dont know the size of Honda Accord 2001 (Baby boy) radiator & condenser, and how they are positioned, both the I4 & V6. But I do know that Honda Civic '97 model has two fans: one for the radiator, while the second for the condenser. Both the radiator & condenser of the car are small, mounted parallel to each other. Each has its own fan attached. Both dont spin at the sametime: Condenser fan spins only when A/C is on, while the radiator fan spins when the fan sensor triggers it, whether A/C is on or not.

I also Know that Honda Accord 2004 V6 (EOD) has a long sized radiator and condenser( almost the same length). The condenser is mounted infront of the radiator. 2 big fans (suck/pull fans) are mounted behind the radiator. The fans go on and off, controlled by trigger sensor, for the radiator/engine cooling system. Then switching on the A/C will switch on the fans too.

So, since i dont know yours, i need to be sure if your radiator fins are clogged or not, since you said one fan is not sucking air properly. Am not really into Japs, which i have noted before. You still need to clarify somethings.

But, i will say it again, if your car overheats when your car is doing more than 50-70km/h, then the radiator fans are not the cause of the overheating.

Ikenna.

Find review of Kia Rio 2002 model in the link below:

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/kia/rio/2002/

Ikenna.