₦airaland Forum

lasthero:
Total cost:

Battery : 85k
Solar panel : 30k
Inverter : 35k

Total: 150,000 naira.

I bought wires 2k

Making 152,000.

My observations so far
It takes 5 to 8 hours of sunshine to charge the battery from 0 to 100% depending on the sunlight intensity.

And guess what guys. When all the house load are on it, it lasted me up to 8 hours to use up a single charge. But when I put of the fridge, the 45watt fan and when my laptop isn't in use, it takes more than 12 hours and that's exactly what I needed.

Burning 8 to 12 hours on petrol daily will send me back to my village.


Thanks for coming to my Ted talk

Running your battery flat will only lead to change of battery in a couple of months. Lead acid batteries are not meant to be fully discharged, at most 50% if you want to be using that battery in the nearest future

eliteweb:
WAHALA UNA SAY NO DE FINISH!

Few months ago I started my solar journey with a 3kva/24v Gennex Hybrid Inverter with 60A MPPT Charger inbuilt.

My PV arrays are 355W x4. (Canada Panel)
with 2 De-Bull 230ah tubular batteries.

After installation, the batteries were left to charge for 2 days without any load on the inverter.

After one week of installation and usage, running a moderate load of about 150w all around, the batteries started entering low mode. sometimes, as soon as the charging sources are switched off, the battery indicators drop 2 bars out of 4 to show inky 2 bars of battery reserve left without any load.

After going back and forth and taking the batteries back to the dealer to be charged etc.., the engineer of the company told me that I need add more panels.

Today I changed the batteries to dry cells, and also got same results of battery indicator dropping to 2 bars when d sun has gone off.

Could it be that my Inverter ain't charging the battery properly or the Inverter is draining the batteries?

Stop using voltage to calculate your battery percentage it is very wrong. Most inverters especially chinese ones use voltage to calculate remaining battery capacity. Also your inverter which I use has a low voltage disconnect function and calculated battery percentage based on that. Get a proper battery meter that has a shunt to calculate your battery capacity or measure your remaining capacity the old way of turn off all load, waiting about 1 hr and measure the voltage. Then calculate capacity using a voltage chart

Valto:
@ customer it has already happened. please send the items back and get your refund , though i advise u let go, keep using it, if there is no bad performance issues. am saying this because looking at the price u bought them (90k for both) , brand new 250w panel is not less than 50k, talkless of felicity 60A mppt that is sold for 90 to 100k last price.

@willmaria14, we all know what u did. this is typical alaba style. u fraudulently supplied him, what his money can afford, which is very bad. why didn't u tell him that felicity 60A cc is actually sold for 90,000, and brand new 250w panel for 45 or 50k.
u should desist from this act, tell people the specific market price, who wan buy go still buy, regardless!

Same thing happened to me. I bought felicity mppt 120a and was supplied 100a. Funny enough I bought 2 and on one carton the 120a specs were cutoff and specs of 100a were displayed on the other the 120a sticker was intact but product inside was still 100a. I know the back and forth I had with the seller who kept insisting it was 120a even when I showed him charging amps was 100a max. Lastly I was told to return product, wait for product to sell before money is refunded. I decided to keep both as 100a will suffice for my needs at no discount as I wanted to believe the seller (who is on this forum) didn't play a fast one on me, and on some occasions he returned excess waybill money as recharge cards
The best way to prevent this "scam" is by the heatsink. Usually the product code is stamped on the heatsink, so ask the seller to provide the picture of the heat sink before waybill. I later bought another 80amps from said seller and made sure he showed me that heatsink code before waybill.

obimind:
That's the power behind Lithium ion.

I thought lithium ion cycle life is about 500 to 1500 cycles?

MistaMann:
Please how do I make this arrow move?

Rotate anticlockwise starting from up

Saipro:
1.5hp GenCool 2 running at 25°C after about an hour in my sitting room drops to about 300W. Amazing because the original GenCool has a minimum of around 600W operating power.

In real life terms, I can run two 1.5hp GenCool 2 all night and wake to more than 50% battery left. One of them no longer goes off. If energy generation/storage isn't an issue, leaving them on guarantees a room maintained permanently cool.

Turbo mode consumes (wastes) absurd amounts of power. I no longer use it. I do not recommend it either unless you're at immediate risk of a heatstroke.

I'm confused. Is there any other version? Because I checked before purchasing last year and mine looks exactly like an old gencool I've seen

GeorgeD1:
if you have a solid cc like the morningstar, there's no big deal with this actually.
the charge controller will dial back the amps and only allow what the battery will accept
pass through, unless your settings are terribly wrong ab initio.

Yea I understand but it will take longer to charge the battery and with this rainy season and unpredictable weather I prefer to get the amps I can get with little time.

Dam5reey:
More amps more joy for Lifepo4 users..

65A is nothing on a 24V 200AH cells..

Reduce the current to recommended Charge current, only workaround, Else start saving for another batteries.

Yea i guess so, but I've made up my mind. Let's see how long bulk overcharging tubular batteries will last before it gives up. The small hope is when it gets to absorption, charging amps reduces

My biggest disadvantage with lead acid batteries(I'm using 24v 220 luminous bought 3 years ago) is with the charging current. I recently increased my panels to 340w *8 (2720w) and the charging current I see sometimes is scary sometimes getting up to 40amps. I reduced it initially to 30 amps according to battery specs and my load which is just 2 tvs a ps4, dstv and a fridge and freezer, but I seem to seem to be wasting solar power so I increased it to 65amps. Guessing with this my batteries won't last long from amps overcharging. Well time to start saving for the inevitable or is there a work around?

Same thing happened to someone I knew. In my case I met him after many years at a church premise and we exchanged pleasantries. He looked unkempt but I didn't want to ask him why. It was when I asked him what he was doing there and he started smiling that I looked down as saw leg chains, then it occurred to me 'why' he was there. He asked for some money and I gave him the much I had. I left sad. I wondered whether it was those days he smoked marijuana often or was it something else that got him this way. I will never forget his unique way of betting, once during Ac milian and Liverpool UCL final? He'd ask you to chose any team and he'll choose the other for betting, while wrapping his marijuana. A pity

Mofetemi:
Which one is steam deck? Is it the new nintendo to be released in October or i guessed wrong?

A pc handheld

Mofetemi:
House, good evening. As sony is done with handhelds production, which realistic handheld can one buys because i highly prefer handhelds to tv consoles

Wait for steam deck

djaybaba:
Pls Whats the brand/product name?

Luminous tubular 220ah

ceaser:
Came across this David Poz' link. He used beer crate. I think coca cola crate can fit into your application too with maybe a few modifications.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5HWCpJE1lo

It's a milk crate

samnaija:
@just Emmanuel pls continue posting your lithium wares, don't be intimidated. This on the long run will help members on the forum to make their choice. But my cup of tea on this matter lithium still on the high side.
Team tubular all the way, no shaking 2 Years plus.

Lol mine is 3 years and I intend using it for another 4 to 5 maybe by then lithium prices will be very affordable

mantims:
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) smart battery packs with active balancer, Bluetooth remote monitoring and cells available for sale from the Jos Guy. We ship nationwide.
1.25kwh 12v: 130k
2.5kwh 24v: 260k
5kwh 24v/48v: 560k
6kwh 24v/48v: 600k
9.8kwh 48v: 950k

100ah 3.2v great power cells: 27k
120ah 3.2v CATL cells 31K
280ah 3.2v CATL cells 76k

Welcome to order: 08030633202 (calls/WhatsApp)

I'm confused about this pricing: 5kwh 24v/48v for 560k

GeorgeD1:
bro, despite the seemingly huge benefits of lithium, lead acid still holds an attraction for a lot of folks.
provided you don't saddle yourself with flooded lead acid which needs babysitting, lead acid in the form of
gel or agm is essentially an install and forget kind of set up where you don't worry yourself with a lot of issues
lithium owners have to worry about. you don't do top balancing or bottom balancing with lead acid and you
hardly need a bms. for anyone thinking of starting his or her journey into renewable energy, lead acid is still
the preferred entry point.

And George appears only when needed lol. I use tubular batteries ans it's been serving me for 3 years now. I'll still wait for that sweet price point before switching. But I'm happy it's getting affordable

Valto:
yes he can do 24v

Are you aware of the price?

Valto:
the price is not that reasonable bro. u can get a good 100ah 12v lithuim with good thick casing and rugged DALY bms for 125k from the jos guy. they should stop packing lower capacity cells as higher ones. imagine selling 48v 6kwh(120ah) as 48v 10kwh(200ah) and 24v 3kwh(120ah) as 24v 5kwh(200ah). a pity Nigeria has no regulatory body for this kind of stuff.

Wow had no idea you could get 12v 100ah @₦125k. Then why are people still going for lead acid batteries. Does he have a 24v config?

Valto:
definitely 100ah or 120ah the real price of grade A 4pcs of 150ah cells, with that casing and bms, can never sell for 180k.

Even if its 100ah I belive that price is reasonable

easysunny:
Greetings to Ogas in the house.

Pls I need help. My 2008 Honda Pilot develop some problems.
The radiator fans stopped working unless I turn AC on. If the AC is on the fans will be working okay, but once AC is off, the fans will not spin.
This problem started when car AC worked on it. The AC man damaged the radiator when trying to remove compressor coil which he said spoiled. In order to remove the coil, he brought out the radiator & other parts. The opening that connect the gear oil hose was damaged. Without telling me he block the gear oil from entering the radiator. This resulted to car jerking & transmission overheating. It was discovered and the radiator was repaired and reconnected back properly.
Now, 2 days ago, I noticed that the fans are not working unless AC is On. If I on the engine without AC, the engine + radiator will be hot & bring out smoke as fan is not working. However, the temperature reading is still normal at middle.
I approached a Rewire at my area, after checking told me that the Thermostat has spoiled. That I've to REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT & RUN THE FAN DIRECTLY. But I refused because I've read that it's not advisable to remove Thermostat.
Now, for me to use the car, the AC must be On so that the fans can work.

Pls, what could be the problem & how to fix it?

Thanks

That's nor how thermostat works. If the fan is not coming on the check the coolant switch as the fans should come on at a certain temperature and turn off

desiji:
Cofiguration still ongoing but had a peak of 3075w with overcast weather even with the bad weather pics will follow

What's your solar panel install capacity?

I wonder the kind of doctor that will tell you that you can never be "pregnant ever" from not ovulating

markpenk:
Good afternoon. Can someone help me please? I have a slight problem with a 2009 honda accord.

I just changed 3 ball joints -2 upper arm and 1 lower arm- because I was hearing the ka ka ka sound that usually precedes the dreaded pull-out issue.

Yet, the sound's still there. What could be the problem? I'd really appreciate your inputs. Thanks

If the sound occurs when turning, then it's the outer cv joint.

odimbannamdi:
Guys, what are your thoughts:

My 30amps famicare charger is set Fast charge setting. My battery is now hovering between 14.9 and 15.0v (max charge recommendation), but the charger is outputting 12amps current charging.

Is this normal? I would have thought the output charge would have been throttled down to even 0.5amps since the battery has reached its max charge recommendation to protect it from overcharging - that is how my Anjing charger was doing back then.

Or is the charger not smart enough?

Update: I reduced the charge setting on the Famicare charger to Mid, and the outputting charge has dropped to about 8amps while the battery voltage has dropped to 14.4v

Whats your battery recommended charging parameters?

peaceland:
Dear all,
Please I need your help.
At inception I was using 2 sealed maintenance free batteries which I believed to be 200ah each.
After about 4 years of usage I opted for the 220ah luminous wet cell batteries which I bought at their authorized store so most likely correctly rated.
The challenge now is that it takes forever for the batteries to get charged using solar or generator.
Unlike before on a normal day the 2 batteries get fully charged by 3pm but now by same 3pm it is just 1 or 2 bars on the epever charge controller.
We did not touch any other thing other than change the batteries.
However, at the point of replacing the batteries the technician noted that the dry maintenance free batteries are actually lesser than the claimed 200ah each but I put that down to technician rivalry.
The batteries only get fully charged now with PHCN power, not even with generator like before.
I have 2 solar panels from inception.
Please is there a way I can determine what is wrong with the connection.
Is there a way to determine the ratings of the panels without having to go way up the roof?
Someone told me the panels may be inadequate which if true may mean that truly the initial batteries were lesser than expected 200ah.
Can the difference in 200 – 220ah be that significant to cause slow charging (assuming the first set were 220ah)
Please how can I narrow down the possibilities?.
Thank you dear all.

Panels are not adequate. Some suggest 400w panel per 200ah battery

sunnymix:
okay
So the dstv didn't work again ?
I'm having the same problem now
I haven't used the decoder for over 5 years now
And I just subscribe
It's showing me the same error
Please reply asap
Thanks

The dstv didn't work again.. Had to get another

sunnymix:
Did it later work ?
Please reply asap

Dstv transferred said subscription to my account which I used to resubscribe

tetralogyfallot:
we can build it for u.

What will be the charging current?

samnaija:
It depends if it is for your personal use and you have a big enough system 2kva inverter upwards and adequate panels, then go for ac pump .
But if it is a community project by all means go for DC pump.

DC pump ain't cheap

Thanks

wilmaria14:
where do u want to use it

Home use

adrusa:
Oh hate oh Seven 14 hate two five 2

Missing one number