₦airaland Forum

Donsco:
Thank you.
Yes, I would like to continue and I believe these responses will tailor my options and decision aright.

Download solar CT app from playstore and do your calculations

idsolar:
zinc plaster as below. cost less around N100-N200 per yard depends on location

The installer used this but it's still leaking

idsolar:
buy flashbar or sealant. climb up and seal every nail punch (on top nail) any openings u can see. then enter ceiling, seal every see through opening and nail clearances. na careful work o

Thanks for replying. What's flashbar and what type of sealant works best?

The solar installer that installed panels on the roof did a bad job and now the roof is leaking. Landlord is furious. Is there anyway to repair the roof without removing the solar panels and mount? Pls urgent answer needed

radautoworks:
Bring it over

Unfortunately I stay in Anambra State. Thanks though

Seems it's fraud week

Mrford:
Your temperature sensor is a two wire sensor one is a 5volts reference voltage from the ecu while the 2nd one is a signal wire back to the ecu. As the engine gets hot the resistance in the ect changes which is sent to the ecu in form of a voltage through the signal wire. The ecu uses that information to determine the amount of fuel to send into the cylinder and when to turn on the fan. When you unplug the wiring harness to the ect, the ecu assumes a hot engine condition and in turn switchs on the fan.

Bros are you sure we are talking about the same sensor? Unless I'm mistaken the sensor I'm talking about is located at the bottom of the radiator and when the collant gets hot, it bridges and activates the fan and when it cools said fan stops. I drove my honda accord 2004 with that sensor disconnected and bridged, making the fan run all the time. When I learnt of the strain it puts on the fans I reconnected it back but alas the sensor was bad and my car nearly overheated. I had to put on the ac for the temp to drop when the fans came on. I bought another from Amazon, now my fans come one at temp 91 degrees and off on temp 88 degrees. That's why I advice disconnecting the sensor and bridging but he can try your method because I know said sensor will not throw a CEL on 2004 accord but will do so on 2005 upwards so it may work differently

Mrford:
Why should he join the wire together? Just unplug the wiring harness. If the fan comes on then the problem is from the temperature sensor.

Hmmm one question. How would the fans come on?
Unless I'm missing something here......

cucumbar:
but on a second thought, won’t a faulty coolant temperature sensor make the check engine light come on? My check engine light is not on.

Guess so. Pull the sensor and connect the points together. If the fan turns on on ignition 2 then switch is bad

cucumbar:
The radiator fan of my 2007 Honda Accord i4 stopped working, making the car to overheat. But when the AC is turned on, both fans come on.

A fuse was changed and it seemed the car was okay, but the issue came up again the next day.

the rewire is asking that I change the thermostat.
Does the thermostat affect the working of the radiator fan?
I was thinking it would be the Coolant temperature sensor.

Would appreciate if anyone could help me out.

You are right. Mechanic is wrong

Nice piece only that you posted it twice making people believe it's too long to read

6ixT8:
what are you proud of? Same #200 1GB that cant work with google chrome browser; it only works on selected apps and opera mini. Thats what am currently using.

Lol proud ke? Pls this works on ALL APPS. You have to have a sim that's been dormant for 30days. Then subscribe by dialing *131*65#. Someone said the best plan is 1k for 4gb I disagree N200 for 1g for 1 week equals 800 for 4gb if you don't mind dialing the code to subscribe again. You can buy 2 Sims and alternate as this offer will last 3 months although some can last more. It's called mtn winback offer and there's some faq on their site explaining all

Pls help with code p0172 honda accord 4 cylinder
Freeze frame
Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
=========================================================

Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: 37805-RAA-A720

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 43.922 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 92 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -31.25 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = -19.531 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 6.382 psi
Engine RPM = 855 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 3 km/h
Timing Advance = -7 °
Intake Air Temperature = 58 °C
Mass Air Flow Rate = 17.91 g/s
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 9.412 %
Relative Throttle Position = 0 %


End of report.

ojeysky:
Yes my array is 1.5kw, planning to push it to 2kw to increase Voc so I can get better early/late mppt generation. Even at the moment, I actually feel I may have gotten more hervest if I had larger bank




A few things:
- Panels are sunfit, though not a popular brand but it seem to perform well and better than flames. There was a sunny day, that I actually pulled 8A off it.
- Not too far distance so I have little voltage loss; It's about 16 meter distance from array to cc and all my cable connections were done with 8AWG double core DC cable.
- I have a standalone setup for the panels. I have given details of that in previous posts

Finally, am not an expert on solar but I have learnt a lot from you guys here (yes including from you) and I owe it to that as well



Thanks, I bought mine directly from manufacturer by sending a mail to sales@mppsolar.com but it's also on AliExpress just that buying from there cost more.

That said, I am actually still trying to understand how the kWh is read, does it mean that I did 2kw every hour?

Regards

It's means you did 2kw for one hour ie in simple terms your output that day is equivalent to 2kw continously for one hr.

N200 FOR 1GB FOR 7 DAYS ON 4G MTN IS STILL THE UNDISPUTED CHAMPION

Too bad

Fake, you'd be insane to put camera in a toilet that's intrusion

Easylearner:
Can anyone refer me to a table for wire sizing?

Here an estimate

.......

ojeysky:
My thermocool has a fan, light and buzzer under its lid; this ensures there is equal distributed temperature within the freezer (I love the freezer unfortunately I lost all the features in the hands of kazeem few months a ago when it developed a fault). What's the consumption of your other thermocool?

Kk I see now no it doesn't have a fan. My other thermocool is a double door refrigerator and it consumes 150w

ojeysky:
Am really interested in this freezer, I currently have a 5 years old thermocool ccf-219t which is rated 140w but recently went bad and my technician here did some guess work that made it start working but since then it's been operating on 200w and performance has even degraded.

If I may ask, does the hisense have interior lights and fan? Have you tried checking how long items remain in it before it gets defrosted?

It has interior light. Don't know what you mean by fan. As for how long before defrosting, I have not checked but I think my other thermocool is better. But the defrosting depends on a number of factored mostly how much stuff is inside said freezer as more will make them defrost less. Meanwhile because of its wattage its on for about 15 hrs daily so that might also contribute

Lol me too. As usual thought it was them yahoo Boys so I ignored it. Only for them to send it again and I checked the account number and saw my name
The two sms came from 'Gtbank' & 'GTBANK' hmmm

ceaser:
So measuring on grid power you got 70 watts consumption? 205 litres? Abeg where person fit buy that model, Online? Showrooms? And please what is the model again? I wan sell Thermocool buy Hisense wey get more sense.

I have good experience with their 65" smart TV, so I think they have reliable products on offer.

EDITED ON AFTERTHOUGHT: By saying "grid power" do you mean that the freezer is connected DIRECTLY to the grid or thru the inverter which in turn is plugged into the grid? Cos if that is the case, the freezer is still technically plugged into your 24 volt system and the wattmeter will still give the same readings as when the inverter is on solar alone.

To be doubly sure, unplug the freezer from the inverter, then plug it directly into the mains thru the wattmeter and check the readings again.

It's grid power although my axpert inverter has bypass mode but I use grid more often and allow the inverter rest

fotadmowmend:
1.2 billion can buy 1200 cars at 1m each, 600 cars at 2m

400 cars @ 3 million. Although I saw somewhere the actual figure is around 400 million so which one to believe

ceaser:
Hmmm. Your system is a 24volt system, isn't it?

Yes but I measured the watts during grid power as the rains have been too much and we have been having stable grid power

ceaser:
Waoh. And I though I was the luckiest with 114 watts consumption. But did you say the hisense is 100 litres capacity? Cos the Thermocool I posted is 203 litres capacity. I would have loved to do a capacity-for-capacity comparison.

It's 205 liters with net capacity of 198l[written on the back] final watts after being on for about 6 hours is 56watts

ceaser:
This is impressive if it is really the fact. I can even sell the 6 months old Haier Thermocool for cheap and add some money to get this.

But are you sure your 70 watts is not the recorded consumption on a 24 volt power inverter system in which case the wattage consumption recorded is always half of the actual AC rating of the appliance.

Please the name plate on the appliance will be more persuasive. I am itching to dump what I have for this power saving feat of a deep freezer.

By the way, below is the name plate of the Haier thermocool. Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

With the alarm light off am pulling 66w

Namzy:
Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

Kk just got home. The rated watts is 120w but I have never seen it hit that. The alarm light [ I call it danger light] is on meaning the refrigerator has not hit its optimum temp for preserving foods. In the light is off its between 67 to 72 watts. Now it's about 76 watts from watt meter

dragnet:
Please explain the bold paragraph.

Lol I was confused too

ceaser:
This is impressive if it is really the fact. I can even sell the 6 months old Haier Thermocool for cheap and add some money to get this.

But are you sure your 70 watts is not the recorded consumption on a 24 volt power inverter system in which case the wattage consumption recorded is always half of the actual AC rating of the appliance.

Please the name plate on the appliance will be more persuasive. I am itching to dump what I have for this power saving feat of a deep freezer.

By the way, below is the name plate of the Haier thermocool. Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

ojtech8291:
I have faced this kind thing before. Assuming he combines them in series and VOC of the cc is 100v but the inverter input voltage is 24v. Is it not going to affect the inverter? I will expect he goes for higher cc of 40A or 50A. Thank you.

I don't understand. But wait why do people keep using the old format of 'this is a 12v or 24v solar panel?' I think 300w x 3 connected in series will definitely be more than 100 voc, I might be wrong though. My 340w from jinko and Era solar has a voc of about 47v @stc. Meanwhile I think the problem with the 20a charge controller is the max watts power allowed on said controller. I'm sure it'll be less than 900w

Vin?