And if you are not so lucky, and your worn transmission fluid contains debris that is maintaining the required friction, flushing said transmission will lead to transmission failure
This is main problem with that charge controller. How come there different voc for different battery voltage or is that the way the voc of a charge controller is calculated?
Bro, if it’s 100 million dollars I could agree but 100 million Naira??
Haba naaaah!!!!
Make I show you maths behind it:
1 million views on YouTube is worth approximately 5-8k usd.
Davido’s fall has 138M views but let’s approximate it to 100 million views on YouTube.
100 million is 1million in 100 places. If 1 million views is Appx 5000-8000 dollars then the minimum Davido earned on “fall” from YouTube streaming alone is 5000 * 100 = 500,000 usd
1 dollar = 350 Naira
500,000usd *350 = 175 million Naira.
Davido made a minimum of 175 million Naira from “fall” just by YOUTUBE streaming alone!
Wizkid is a multi-billionaire in Naira cos I know for a fact, he made about 5 million dollars in endorsements and shows alone in 2018 which is about 1.7 billion in Naira.
Not true. You actually get paid based on adverts on said video and people watching those adverts and not skipping
earthrealm: Seems the 2 companies are fighting, cos i have seen pics where the other maker labelled the other one fake, and theirs original ... Seems it supports 48v and with 190Voc input voltage, it sure trumps the cheap 24v/50amp 100Voc fangpusun victron clone that has $103 landing price
Doesn't have equalization and the Voc increases based on different parameters. I have never seen a charge controller having varying levels of Voc. Shine ya eye abeg
Trippledots: In his words, "no exceptions".....his only terms were that if i put it on the roof then it becomes his property and i can use it as long as i am his tenant. On moving out, i'm leaving it including cables attached to it.
The only space for standalone will have shadow cast on it from midday down. Except i raise the platform as high as the building. Its a one Storey building .
harizonal123: Kk, I get your point now but all I was trying to ask was which connection is more power to give more watt per hour
All give same power give or take because like i mentioned earlier the 48v 200ah will give 9600wh ie 48 x 200ah same with the 24v x 400ah which will give same watt hour
harizonal123: If my inverter can accept both connections which should I choose &y?
How can your inverter accept both? From the pic is either you are using a 12v inverter or a 6v inverter[which i haven't seen]. Let's say you have 4 x 12v 200ah batteries and you are looking for an inverter you can get a 12v 24v or 48v inverter which will influence how you connect said batteries eg a 48v system will need 4x 12v connected in series making a 48v 200ah battery connection the 24v will requires a series parallel connection to achieve 24 v 400ah and so on
hisenjos: Finally have about 30 units of the Valence Lithium 12v 40a for sale @ 90k each. Each battery has a built in BMS and can be setup as 12v, 24v or 48v. Over 3500 cycles Let's know if you have any questions.
dmariowizzy: Bros... Just get a new gear.. had same issue.. changed switches tire, still didn't stop... I just sold the gear for 10k and got a new one at Onyingbo..now enjoying my new gear... For Accord 08
I know . But I'll try the Lucas ist . It's cheap and on the bright side if it kills my transmission I'll finally buy another.
maksteve: Morning. Please I drive a Honda Accord 2004. Recently, i have been having issues with the gear. When the gear is on drive, it hesitates and revs before jerking forward, and I notice this is usually occurs between the GEAR 1-2 on the dashboard.
The issue actually started after I took my car for engine wash; then i noticed whenever i changed gears; either from drive to reverse or park, it jerks forward of backwards depending on the direction. I took it to my mechanic, he changed the gear switch and oil. The jerking during the gear change stopped, but the revving and jerking while accelerating didnt. Although, as soon as the speed increases to like 6okm/hr, or above gear2 sign on the dashboard, it doesnt occur anylonger. Until i slow down, and when i try to increase speed, it does so again.
I've tried two seperate mechanics, who have also tried changing the gear switch but problem still persists.
Do you have an idea what could be wrong?
Have same issue for 2 years now and have tried all sorts of fix Short of changing the transmission unfortunately no fix. If you accelerate gently it shifts from 1 to 2 smoothly. My next step is to buy Lucas transmission fix and if it spoils the transmission...... So be it. If you find a fix let me know
mktinsight: Have been reading of sunpower and lg neon r panels with efficiency over 22% and made me want to ask.gurus what are efficiency of panels like Canadian Solar?
Efficiency here just means how small a panel can be to supply same watts for eg a 340w solar panels can be 72 cells and so the size will be bigger than a 60 cells 300w panels. But a manufacture can make that smaller frame deliver that same 340w making it more 'efficient' don't mistake efficiency by ability to deliver rated watts. It just means you need less roof space when used efficient solar panels since they are smaller and yet deliver same watts as some panels that might be bigger in size
ojeysky: While I also found that I can get solar panels at cheaper rates than the ones posted in this thread I am curious to hear that of @NiyiOmoIyunade. I for instance got Flames 250w for 30k yet the quotes you see here are way beyond that.
Lol I got 340w Era solar for N44.5k and jinko 340w for 60k but I believe men here are getting ridiculous deals especially on barely used panels.
NiyiOmoIyunade: Base load 2kw per hour and surge loads 4 to 5kw when water heaters, microwave e.t.c come on.
Why did I use solar panels to meet above and beyond my current and future power needs - reliability - I have not owned or touched a generator for the last 2 years at least and I am off-grid 95% - use mains electricity to power house loads only if available between 8pm and 3am.
Of all the power sources I have experienced solar power has been the most reliable - I therefore chose it disproportionately over other sources - now on a good day I make too much power and on a cloudy day I make enough power to get by.
The same amount to buy a 20kva Diesel Gen gets me 24pieces of 300w panels and 2 CCs with change to spare and near zero maintenance or fuel costs relative to a generator. So the math checks out for me especially as I am in a position to get panels dirt cheap.
ojeysky: So I have double checked the manual, @chris81964 is right a startup voltage of 150 is required. I guess that explains the source of my issue. Now to look for funds for 2 panels
Edit: Mppsolar has also confirmed that 6 panels is required minimum
ojeysky: Thanks a lot for the education, it's really useful. My setup is quite small, for now it's 4 panels (250w each) to be in series. I have attached the spec of my hybrid controller.
I already have an SPD so from your explanation above, it means that diagrammatically, the wire from PV will look something like below:
PV>>>SPD>>>DC breaker>>>CC
What DC circuit breaker rating do you recommend? It's a 24V system.
There's an app on playstore called SOLARCT. It's a nice app and have calculations for your needs including solar panel tilt angle. I think the developer tried with that app
olatade: For how long have your luminous batteries been serving you? I use similar batteries so i want to know if they're reliable as I've been made to believe
Based on personal experience AC dey consume fuel. Meanwhile that drag according to another study only makes ac a better option while driving over speeds of 40mph on lesser speeds, SC consumes more fuel than said drag effect
NiyiOmoIyunade: A 1.36Kw PV array is not oversized for a small 24v system with average 450w draw.
Your PV array at 100% capacity will output between 45 to 50amps - in real life you can expect peak sustained output from your CC to be 80% of PV nameplate - between 36 and 42amps all things being equal and your installation optimally done.
If I take 40amps as the max your CC can squeeze out of this your current array, your 13% charge rate for your 200Ah bank is about 26amps leaving 14amps (400w) to service your loads.
All in all you seem to be in perfect position and should not worry at all. Further, you should need very little utility charging in your scenario - you could throttle your inverter charging current to the barest minimum or put the grid on a timer e.g charge from utility only if available between 6pm and 6am.
It appears you have a Fangpusun CC? That nifty bad boy has a current limiting feature built in - if you are really paranoid you could throttle CC output amps to like 35amps max and simultaneously set your inverter to the lowest charging current it can do.
The honest truth is that your Flooded batteries can tolerate +/- amps above the max charge rate - what you are trying to prevent is internal overheating and thermal runaway with too fast of a charge - this is only a danger during the bulk charge phase and especially if your batteries were deeply depleted beforehand - once you make it to absorb charge phase both CC and inverter will automatically limit current into the battery bank.
In summary, you really have no cause for alarm with your current setup, if you must adjust anything, reduce your inverter charging current to the barest minimum and/or implement a timer and relay/contactor arrangement such that grid charging only happens during zero-sun hours. As a last resort throttle your CC output but your current array is just right for your loads you stated.
For your next upgrade, ditch flooded and choose AGM or Lithium if you have confidence in that tech. this way you can focus on enjoying your renewable energy investment and not worry about putting too many amps into your battery bank.