₦airaland Forum

@vedaxcool. Okada and motor hitting to catch fire? Nawao! You de funny o!

@senator. Thanks a thousand. Please send in the millions from the senate to us!

@rayplanet and professors. Thanks for the grease on my driving shafts.
Your comments has reduced the amount of frictional forces working within me.
Because of all these, would pen down more articles as time foes on.
You guys need more automotive stuff?
Type DW Nig Ltd on your Facebook search icons for informative and educative videos and pictures.

@emmalivar. Sure, you can share. It's a free info.That's why I have post here.

@dankok. No worries. Remember when we all were in tertiary institutions, we thought the information we were getting somewhat wasn't going to have any applications in the future. So, cool down, and you'll get your car.

@original. There's a lot of truth in what you've just said.
How to prevent fires from mechanics and "wire guys"? Supervise them, or like you said, take it to a certified mechanic, or...

@billyG and ranchhiddas. I really appreciate that correction.

@pricipal. Its an oversight, sir. Because if its the reverse, there won't be the need for fire extinguishers to fight the fires.

@tkpoint2. Opening the hood, would depend on the nature or degree of the fire. You only confidently go and open up the hood, if you have a fire extinguisher at hand.
If the fire is mild, for instance just starting up with some smoke, you can rush and cautiously open it up and assess. But be safety conscious in your actions. But if its a wild kind of fire as seen in the pictures, don't attempt to open the hood. You're allowing the access of more oxygen in to the already burning fire.
Disconnecting the terminal depends on where your battery is positioned.

Pls bear with me, I'd I just didn't mention your names in the comments icon here.
I like the commendations and criticisms.
Its cool, especially the " water density thing", and people raising issues of plagiarism.
All what I penned down where from research, and my experiences in fixing cars.

Regards,
TRYGO...be mentally prepared for more!

@obinnabiv. I think car owners still kind of need some rest from all these insurance stuff. We all know incidences like these happens, but you've got to take preventive measures. I can't just say because I'm signed on to an auto insurance, to be careless.
In my opinion, if car owners can even avoid the services of insurance companies, that would be cool. But since fires, and other disasters are unintended, they'll still keep being part of the insurance stuff.

@jbonitor. I don't plagiarize. I sit down, look at things, and then write on them.
No one is an island of knowledge. So, just like I apply my engineering principles in all the automotive jobs I do, the sources of all my info are from my experiences on the cars I fix; the problems car owners face; brainstorming potential problems people might face, etc. It's that simple to put up a write up like this. Just sit with the ideas, think through them, get primary and secondary info. That would help you, if you wanna learn. Well, I still appreciate your explanations to diportivo.
That's cool of you.

@dipotivo. "Pull over" simply means just park for safe ibe safe place, wey no to cause obstruction for cars.
"hood" means the bonnet area. Where your engine is located.
Not seen any car fires recently? Maybe cause you, or sorry, humans aren't Omnipotent like God.
I think you could get such statistics from the fire services, etc.

You're funny person though.
How's work na? Hope you're cool?

@readonee. You're right. That car has got lots of rust issues like you say, but still got power.
I concur with all what you've said though.

@b2212. Your information isn't complete pls.
You didn't provide engine capacity, whether its a 1.6, 1.8, or 1.4liter engine. You also didn't indicate if its a manual, or an auto drive. No mileage.
But I would be working on assuming the mileage should be 150, 000....., or so.

Info I have being able to deduce from your post are:
*oil change, spark plugs replaced, with the exception of the air filter
*evap system codes generated.

My questions?
* was this problem there when you bought the car, or it just started.
*and if the fault started recently, what has being done on the car after you discovered it has thus issue?

My suggestions:
Please add these info in addition to the ones you've read in the previous posts.

*Check the type if engine oil in that car. Almost all astra Opel's use synthetic or semi synthetic oils. This help the engine work more less in overcoming frictional forces within the internal engine internal parts. Such oils have a thin oil film on them, that helps the additive properties in them prevent the metal to metal contacts that would have being occurring in the engine.
When engine components such as crankshaft, camshafts, etc go through a lot of work in trying to overcome these stresses, tremendous amount of energy is generated, and that leads to the engine demanding for more FUEL.
Is just b2212 working an an establishment, and suddenly you're asked to expand your job functions. You'll definitely make a demand for a review if tour contract(no vex here).

*check that spark plug gap. If you have spark plugs with a wider than recommended air gap, the time required for the spark to be generated would be tremendously great. Therefore, during starting it takes time to start, and you'll notice that raw fuel would already be in the combustion chamber, but there isn't enough spark to ignite the fuel, to complete the stroke cycle. So, if the spark gap is out of spec, would suggest you replace those plugs, or gap then to the recommended size(some Toyota cars accept a spark gap of 1.1mm).
Do you have the old spark plugs you replaced? Compare the spark plug gap, using a filler gauge and see. If its out of spec, adjust the gap.

*check that air filter. if it isn't dirty, or clogged, your problem isn't in the filter.
Asides that. Check the intake duct of the air filter assembly, to see if its blocked. Sometimes, rats, and cobwebs enjoy such locations. So if your air filter isn't receiving the proper amount if metres air, the air/fuel ratio would never be at equilibrium. The cars ECU would definitely be commanding a steady increase in the injector pulse rate. Because the signals the ECU is getting from the air filter sensor, isn't properly metered, and its seeing a lean situation.

*check also the airflow sensor for dirts. If its dirty, do not use a carb cleaner to clean it up. Use a piece white handkerchief to remove any dirt. At least, that's how I clean for clients.

*check the electrical signal at the airflow sensor. Carryout power, ground, and signal tests at the connectors attached to the sensor. You should get battery voltage at the source, showing that current is getting to the component. Tour signal wire, should indicate 5volts. Any distortions in these values from the threshold, would cause issues such as you're facing now.
A bad ECU (Brain box), can also cause it. Reason being if any of the circuits on the electronic circuit boards has failed, there would be uncontrollable supply of fuel in to the combustion chamber. This is synonymous to over floating in carbureted systems.

*evap system codes, from my experience working on cars, hasn't caused bad MPG. The evap system comprises of the charcoal canister, fuel pressure vapor switch, etc. So, if for instance the vapor pressure switch is faulty, vapor from the fuel tank that are supposed to travel to the canister at either the front or rear, would send a wring signal to the ECU about its rate if movement, and the ECU sets up a code. I'm isolating the evap code in this scenario.

I do hope this info helps you some bit.
Awaiting the other info I requested from you soonest.

Regards

@gazzuzz. you're funny o! I came mildly.

@mallam musa. If the job I did, was a code generated one, I would have get the scanned codes retrieved, and shown you the procedures I employed in cases like that. I just do really hope you watch that video.

Here's the conclusions to the Chevrolet vehicle we test drove last time.
After the drive cycle, the following issues were taken care of:

*frequent stallings while driving, and even when the engine was idling.
*exhaust black emissions

But what was left outstanding was that despite the test drives, there was still loss of power. It was like the vehicle was being stalled of fuel, or bucking down.
So, what we did was to replace the already purchased crankshaft 24X sensor behind the crankshaft that the car was using, to the one that was originally there. Test drove the car again, the issue was resolved.
Those were just the updates we wanted to pass across to you guys.

The video of the entire work process can be found here:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=993559164086230&id=767933589982123

@mallam musa. You weren't following our threads initially. That's why you've got that misconception, or mindset.
As regard the pictures showing the car that way, sorry, for that "sales" feedback you've got in the pictures.
Getting live data, or....isn't something I did post here. I did all the troubleshooting, and fixed the car. So, I do understand what you're saying. Let me just assume thus is what you're thinking: " this guy just de put picture of work we no de sure him don fix". For this particular car, the customer wasn't interested in a live deed data(CEL) on or not.
Go through the videos, and you may perhaps get the clue of what we've done.

Thanks for pointing out that though.
PS: have a similar one with what you're requesting for that I have done.
Here's the link:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=890241904417957&id=767933589982123

INTRODUCTION
Everyday that passes by in Lagos, there's hardly a day that you won't see a vehicle burning, or an already burnt down one by the street, or on the middle of the road. Its really a helpless sight to behold. The occupants, if lucky, escape the raging infernos from the fires, and some, not that really lucky, get killed as a result of various degrees of burns sustained in such incidents.
Instance is, when I was returning from one of the holy ghost services at the Redemption Camp early in the morning some months ago(I'm not by all means trying to be a religious PR here), I suddenly saw a Corolla '08 in frames, on the middle of the road. The owner of the car was no where to be found. Maybe, he has gone to look for "water" to fight the fire. Note of caution please. Don't use ordinary water to fight an inferno. That accelerates the fire, because fuel is denser than water.
That day, before 8:00am, the car was totally burnt to ashes.
You could imagine environmental , economic, and psychological impacts that incident must have caused the owner, and the environment.
What would have happened, if other adjacent cars caught fire? Imagine the ripple effect of that for a minute.
Incidences like these prevail everyday in Lagos, especially areas where vehicles are at close proximity with each other(See fig1).

WHAT CAUSES SUCH FIRES

For a fire to start, there must be the presence of AIR, FUEL, and a HEAT SOURCE.
There are a lots of causes of car fires.
The most common ones are:

1. Fuel(petrol). Leaks along fuel lines poses a dangerous threat to safety here.
Cars with a leaky injector nozzle system seals can allow tiny droplets of fuel drop on hot spots on an engine, or exhaust system, thereby leading to a fire. These seals are usually weak, when they are exposed to tremendous heat from the engine, and the atmospheric temperature of the environment. Normally at 60, 000miles, such seals loose their sealing properties, and create fire risks.

2. Electrical issues. When you open up the hood of your car, you see bunch of wire harnesses, connectors, etc, acting as a conduit for the flow of current to various components of the car.
If any of these wiring harnesses has a SHORT CIRCUITS problems, the flow of current would be limited, at the load, leading to the current traveling to an undesignated route. This route could be the body of the car, which acts as a ground. This undesired current flow that has found a new path, could trigger a fire, if for instance there's already a source of fuel provided it by a leaky fuel system component. Bu!!! you hear. Suddenly there's a fire raging.

3. Exhaust system. All internal combustion engine applications work through a lots of friction and stress, in order to produce the motion for the movement, you and I enjoy when we drive our new SUVs, or in a "danfo bus" cruising. But have you ever thought that those applications could go through temperatures of up to 2000C? With this kind of extreme temperature, coupled with outside temperature, that might be in the range of 30-40C, what do you expect your engine to do? A clogged catalytic converter would generate even more extreme temperatures that could instantly lead to a fire. Even us car owners, look for an escape route, when we're faced with the heat from traffic daily, and work stress. You escape that by putting on your car's Ac system, to take away that heat, in exchange for a clean cool air. Isn't it? OK. Same thing happens to your engine. This extreme temperature is exited through the exhaust system of the car, and straight to the environment.
Now. How does that exhaust system looks like? See Fig2: Exhaust system
Fuel system routed close to exhaust systems are at risks of causing car fires.
Manufacturers have over the years, routed fuel lines away from exhaust systems, and even shielded the exhaust systems with shield materials to protect excess heat from setting off fires. Some fuel system lines also use heat shields, to help reduce the risks of fires.

4. Oil spills. Engine oils, and automatic transmission fluids spills on engine components like the transmission system, cylinder heads, exhaust system manifold, a rotating driven solid shafts, and on engine chassis, etc can cause car fires.
The reason being as these spills gradually builds up into a sludge on those components, they trap dirt's made of combustibles, making them susceptible to generating heat and smoke, and then results into a fire while driving.

HOW TO PREVENT CAR FIRES

The most effective way to prevent car fires are:
1. Carry out preventive maintenance checks on all fuel, exhaust, and electrical systems at every oil change. These checks would help you determine their integrity, and eventually point out potential problem areas before they occur.

2. Ensure all maintenance/repairs carried out on the car's fire prone systems, such as the fuel, exhaust, and electrical systems are properly done.
Proper laid down procedures regarding repairs and safety must be strictly adhered to. Do not allow your mechanics to tell you, "Oga. It doesn't matter to put on an exhaust heat shield, or let's manage the fuel line clips. It won't do anything". If you currently have a mechanic like that as your mechanic, you gotta run brother!

3. Carry out steam washing of the engine bay monthly, or so. That would reduce the accumulation of oil spill build up on the engine area.
If you're scared of allowing your engine to be steam washed, you could hand wash it.
***use solvents such as petrol, or diesel fuel, to help remove oil spills , and apply a soapy
solution to wash the affected parts mildly.
NB: Ensure the cars ECU (commonly called brainbox), and ignition control modules are protected from from water sprays. Because they could foul the system, and cause you tremendous money fixing them.

WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOUR CAR CATCHES A FIRE
Well, I know some of us are so religious, when it comes to predictive maintenance, and stuffs like that. But I think its cool for you to have some tips on your hands, just in case, perhaps, your neighbours car catches fire, this is what you should do.

1. If you notice smoke billowing out of the car while driving, pull over off the road, to a safe place, and park.
Don't open the hood, because there's the risk the fire could spread further, because opening up the hood, creates more oxygen intake for the car. And that accelerates the fire.

2. Get out of the car as soon as possible, If you can.
Do not attempt to return back to the car to rescue your laptop, galaxy note 7, and even your jewelry. I think its better you're alive, than die in that fire. Doesn't make sense to me though. But maybe, that's not my business.

3. Disconnect the power source, if you can. Some cars, like Benz, BMW, Renaults cars don't have their batteries located at the front. They're at the rear, or at the front passenger seat. Be bold enough to disconnect the positive terminal in order to cut the current supply to the electrical systems.

4. If you're courageous enough, fight the fight with a recommended fire extinguisher class type recommended by your safety agency(FRSC). Could be a class B, or C. Depending on the specifications recommended.
5. Call the fire service immediately, if you've got no guts to stand against a fire.

CONCLUSION

Car fires don't just start like that.
And even if they do, take preventive maintenance checks very seriously. Try monitoring the kinds of jobs, and the safety/repair procedures your car mechanic employ fixing your precious car. If you don't, someday, you might just laugh-cry.

Hope this piece has enlightened someone on this platform.

Catch ya guys.
More, still coming.

@b2212. Please do read my post ( Your car's consuming excessive fuel?). There, I explained the likely causes of fuel consumption there.
But asides that. Would want to know the history of that car. What have you done, when you noticed that sudden distortion in fuel MPG? Have mechanics done repairs on it recently? Those are the ??s I would want answers for, before we start. Any check engine lights, PRE that fault, or currently you've one on the dash?

Regards,
TRYGo

@GAZZUZZ. The car, isn't for sale o!
The owner nearly sold it, because if the frustrations he's being going through, but encouraged him to keep that car, and would try our best to fix the problem.
If in the near future, he decides to out for sale, would post it here.

Hi, fellow car talk guys.
If you all could remember, some weeks ago, I posted a particular problem that was giving a client tremendous headaches, and how I went about solving that particular fault.
I would be bringing you guys, other issues that transpired, after I had carried our some drive cycles on the car, in rider for the ECU, to relearn what has being done.
Expect the updates later this week.

Regards,
TRYGO
PS: Pictures of the car, for your perusal.
Its a 3.4L engine V6...

@tofolo. I'm the author of that post.
You could check out other ones at my Facebook page.
Type DW Nig Ltd on your Facebook's search icon, and there you get informative and exciting video clips and pictures on automotive stuff.

@stalionnotch. The exhaust system, comprise of the catalytic converter, exhaust tail pipes, exhaust manifold, etc. It depends on the part of the exhaust system you're referring to.
The exhaust system contributes to excess fuel consumption, when the system has tremendous leaks on the exhaust line, or the muffler system.
So, when you drive your car next time, and you notice a "buuuuu" sound, that's shows you've leaks somewhere on the system.
If your catalytic converter has failed internally, it could cause the excess fuel consumption you're experiencing.
A leaky exhaust manifold, or a failed exhaust gasket also.
What happens when any of the exhaust system fails, or is gradually failing, is that, the leakages allows into the engine, more than excess air requirement needed for achieving the necessary air/fuel ratio for combustion to take place in the combustion chamber. This distortion in the car's air requirements causes a lean condition in the engine; and the ECU(engine control computer) of the car, commands the necessary engine management systems(injector nozzles, etc), to increase its injection pulse rate in order to meet up with the air/fuel ratio distortions. That's why its important if any of the exhaust system has problem, get it fixed immediately.
I hope this helps you.

@stalion. The exhaust system, comprise of the catalytic converter, exhaust tail pipes, exhaust manifold, etc. It depends on the part of the exhaust system you're referring to.
The exhaust system contributes to excess fuel consumption, when the system has tremendous leaks on the exhaust line, or the muffler system.
So, when you drive your car next time, and you notice a "buuuuu" sound, that's shows you've leaks somewhere on the system.
If your catalytic converter has failed internally, it could cause the excess fuel consumption you're experiencing.
A leaky exhaust manifold, or a failed exhaust gasket also.
What happens when any of the exhaust system fails, or is gradually failing, is that, the leakages allows into the engine, more than excess air requirement needed for achieving the necessary air/fuel ratio for combustion to take place in the combustion chamber. This distortion in the car's air requirements causes a lean condition in the engine; and the ECU(engine control computer) of the car, commands the necessary engine management systems(injector nozzles, etc), to increase its injection pulse rate in order to meet up with the air/fuel ratio distortions. That's why its important if any of the exhaust system has problem, get it fixed immediately.
I hope this helps you.

It's pertinent to note that almost all GM vehicles, such as Buick, Pontiac, venture, and trans sport, have got 2 crankshaft position sensors.
1. 24x type, is located behind the crankshaft pulley. Its a hall effect type.The crankshaft pulley has to be removed before getting access to the sensor. This sensor isn't responsible for starting the engine, as is commonly noticed on cars with wholly a single crank sensor like is obtainable on other cars.
The sensor only comes unto play, after the RPM is above 400.
2. 3x, or 7x type sensor. Thus is the sensor directly responsible for the car starting. Its located behind the engine block, and difficult to access. You'll have to jack up the right hand side of the front, and remove that tyre to access it.
Its a reluctor type of sensor, and resembles the the normal configuration of your Toyota or Honda crankshaft position sensor at the pulley.
So, the next time you experience a no start situation, replace the crank position behind the engine block. This should be done, only if the ignition control module has being eliminated as cause if the fault.

Fig1: Ignition control module for a GM trans sport
Fig2: Crankshaft position sensors

PS: sensor at the crank pulley has a bean shaped configuration; while sensor behind the engine block has the normal crankshaft position sensor you might be familiar with.

Hope this post help someone here.

If you own a Honda pilot truck, and you're are currently experiencing the Ac system works awhile, and suddenly stops working, this video clip I have posted on my Facebook page would help you get the problem fixed.
Your Ac system tech, might have replaced fuses, and yet, same symptoms keeps reoccurring.
Here's the link:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=880772322031582&id=767933589982123
Shows you how I fixed it.
PS: Its a simple fix.

@123cars! Check out the Facebook link pages provided. We perform antibacterial cleaning services of the Ac system, as well. Hope you're cool oooo!

What your Ac system technician isn't telling you about your car's Ac cabin filter.
Information like this, would surprise you.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=885520404890107&id=767933589982123

Do you know even that your car's Ac system has more bacteria than a public toilet sit? This link would also wao you:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=806562729452542&id=767933589982123
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=933994050042742&id=767933589982123

If you're currently battling with this same problem with your car, and you've replaced ALMOST ALL PARTS, this could be the FIX for IT.

WHAT AN EMBARRASSMENT!
"The car stalls at every STOPS; when it's HOT; and even when it's IDLING. It emits black visible exhaust smoke, when its revved, and even driven. Lacks power, as though its being bugged down by something".
Those were some of the symptoms the customer of this GM Chevrolet V6, 2000 model year mini van observed, and complained to us.
This video clip would show the technician, and the car owner, how to solve a problem like this, and apply same to other vehicle brands.

NB: The most difficult electrical problems to solve on a car, is an INTERMITTENT one. You don't just know where the source of the problem is coming from.
Mind you guys, this problem took us one(1)week to be able to identity the problem, and give it a FINAL KILL!

PROCEDURES WE FOLLOWED
1. Simulate the customers complaint, to confirm them.
2. Draw out a troubleshooting plan. Here I used the reverse brainstorming technique. It entails working back to identity what could cause such symptoms described by the client.
From the results of my brainstorming, discovered from my basic engineering practice that, if you've got BLACK SMOKE puffing out like a chimney from an exhaust, it suggest the car's consuming exhaust fuel. So, what could have being the likely cause of this?
We checked/replaced the followings components:
*modified the fuel pump to a V8
*swapped the airflow sensor with a known good one, we still got worst result(black smoke).
Carried out a voltage tests on both power and ground l, and signal test using a digital meter in order to re out electrical shorts and opens with the airflow sensor circuit.
*swapped the ignition control module with a known good one, we still had the same issue.
*replaces crankshaft position sensors. Mind you, almost all GM minivans have got double crankshaft position sensors. One is attacked at the crankshaft pulley, while the other is located behind the engine block.
To get access to a the one at the crankshaft pulley area, the crankshaft pulley has to be removed, with a special crankshaft pulley puller tool.
Replacing those crank sensors, just didn't make any difference.
What we die next was to carry out a RESISTANCE test on the crankshaft position sensors' wiring, to look for shorts/open circuits. The circuits integrity were intact. So, the sensors and its wirings were ruled out as the cause of problem.
*tested all fuses, and relays in the power distribution box, and they were all OK.
*spliced open the wiring harnesses linking the ECU, power distribution box to the ignition control module.
Alas! The problem was traced to the power distribution box location.

HOW WE KILLED IT(SOLVED)
CHECK OUT THE FIX HERE in the video.
If this video was helpful to you, please drop your comments in the comments bar.
Here's the link for the full video:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=993559164086230&id=767933589982123

PS: Got electrical issues like this, and you want it solved? Send us a message.

Fig1: electrical power distribution centre
Fig2: crankshaft pulley, crankshaft position sensor and crankshaft oil seal replaced
Fig3: comparison of both purchases and bad parts.

Fu video clip is on the Facebook page link above.

@Egun! You're funny person o!

@Gazzuzz. Thanks for a he reminder pls. I meant to say the thermostat, and not the ECT.

@trunaijian. Thanks for the wonderful contributions. Hope you're cool?

@Nonso. I did forgot to include that fact. Vehicles fitted with ECT( engine coolant temperature) sensor, should never be removed. They should be replaced, if they've failed.
Forget about the Nigerian mechanics mentality, telling people to remove their cars thermostat (ECT), just because the car was brought from another different (cold) whether.

Thanks for the reminder Nonso.

@Gazzuzz. Yes, I'm the author of that post. Have other posts there also.
You could also check out my Facebook page at
www.facebook.com/DW Nig Ltd. Exciting and educating pictures and videos on my daily car repair experiences are there.

PS: If you could access the page with that link, just type: DW Nig Ltd on your Facebook account search icon. It takes you there straight.

Thanks a lot, Zuzzy.

Vehicle manufacturers over the years have modified vehicles to be more fuel efficient, by incorporating various types of technological strategies, ranging from cylinder deactivation systems (on Honda, Ford, "V" engine configurations); VVT-i(variable valve timing ignition) systems; and turbo chargers.

If your car has either of the above installed fuel efficient systems, and your car's fuel efficiency is poor, you probably need to check the following:

1. Engine air filter. Clogged filters distorts a car air fuel ratio negatively, making a car's computer system atomizes more fuel in the combustion chambers
2. Engine idling. Avoid excessive idling of the engine, after start-up, or in traffic. This wears your engine more, and consumes more fuel.
Put off the engine when not in use.
3. AC system. If you're the one that regularly turns on your car's AC system, know that the AC system, adds more load on the engine when the compressor is engaged. Want to use the AC system, and you're worried about fuel issues?
**open your car's windows if you'd parked the car in the sun, before turning in the AC. This would reduce the tremendous amount of work the AC system does, and exerts in your AC system before cooling.
**avoid parking your car in the sun. Look for a shady area.
4. Avoid aggressive driving. When you drive aggressively, it's proportional to increased fuel usage.
Avoid sudden brake applications, and sudden takeoffs.
5. Under inflated. Under inflated tyres increases a car's rolling resistance, which is always translated to increased load on the engine, and subsequently a safety concern for the driver and passengers.
Ensure all tyres are uniformly gauged according to manufacturer's standard.
6. Intake air ducts. All air intake ducts in the engine bay should all be checked regularly to avoid air leaks. A leaky sir duct, falsely commands a car's computer system yo atomize more fuel, thereby affecting your consumption.
7. Spark plugs. Worn out spark plugs would always affect a car's consumption rate. If your plugs are worn, it takes tremendous energy and time for the spark to be ignited, and travel straight down to the combustion chambers, to cause a major ripple effect necessary for your car's dynamics.

I do hope this short piece was helpful.
Drop us a comment in the comment bar, pls.

Vehicle manufacturers over the years have modified vehicles to be more fuel efficient, by incorporating various types of technological strategies, ranging from cylinder deactivation systems (on Honda, Ford, "V" engine configurations); VVT-i(variable valve timing ignition) systems; and turbo chargers.

If your car has either of the above installed fuel efficient systems, and your car's fuel efficiency is poor, you probably need to check the following:

1. Engine air filter. Clogged filters distorts a car air fuel ratio negatively, making a car's computer system atomizes more fuel in the combustion chambers

2. Engine idling. Avoid excessive idling of the engine, after start-up, or in traffic. This wears your engine more, and consumes more fuel.
Put off the engine when not in use.

3. AC system. If you're the one that regularly turns on your car's AC system, know that the AC system, adds more load on the engine when the compressor is engaged. Want to use the AC system, and you're worried about fuel issues?

**open your car's windows if you'd parked the car in the sun, before turning in the AC. This would reduce the tremendous amount of work the AC system does, and exerts in your AC system before cooling.

**avoid parking your car in the sun. Look for a shady area.

4. Avoid aggressive driving. When you drive aggressively, it's proportional to increased fuel usage.
Avoid sudden brake applications, and sudden takeoffs.

5. Under inflated. Under inflated tyres increases a car's rolling resistance, which is always translated to increased load on the engine, and subsequently a safety concern for the driver and passengers.
Ensure all tyres are uniformly gauged according to manufacturer's standard.

6. Intake air ducts. All air intake ducts in the engine bay should all be checked regularly to avoid air leaks. A leaky sir duct, falsely commands a car's computer system yo atomize more fuel, thereby affecting your consumption.

7. Spark plugs. Worn out spark plugs would always affect a car's consumption rate. If your plugs are worn, it takes tremendous energy and time for the spark to be ignited, and travel straight down to the combustion chambers, to cause a major ripple effect necessary for your car's dynamics.

I do hope this short piece was helpful.
Drop us a comment in the comment bar, pls.

This could be the fix you're looking for.
Grinding noise, I mean, when for instance you're driving that range rover, land cruiser, or Honda accord of yours, down the road; and you suddenly notice that as you accelerate more, the more you hear a kind of DEAFENING NOISE coming from either the front end, or rear end of the car. Sometimes, you might just not know exactly where the noise is coming from.
From my experiences working on cars, the following are the likely suspects:
1. Worn out tires. If the internal material makeup of a tyre has expired, or failed, terrible noises are transmitted. Reason being most tyres are nylon/steel belted, and can produce terrible noise.
ADVICE. So, be careful the kind of 'Tokunbo' tyres you buy for your car.
The durability of a durable and reliable tyre, doesn't necessarily has to do with the threads and neatness of tyres.
2. Front wheel bearing hub assembly. What aids the smooth movement of your car's tyres is the smooth movement, less frictional force of the bearings on the hubs(where you attach your tyres to). With time, lubrication in the bearings of the hub assembly, tend to degrade with time, causing an increased frictional force. Its this lack of lubrications of the bearings(commonly called Boris), that produces the grinding noise during driving.
Wheel bearings come in two types. Sealed and non sealed bearings.
Sealed bearings, are already factory lubricated, and after the greases shelf life, the grinding noise starts. You've no option, but to replace it.
Non sealed bearings, are factory lubricated, but can be relubricated.
ADVICE. Water, or a flooded terrain is its enemy. If possible, avoid flooded areas as much as possible.
3. Unlubricated/worn out driveshafts inner bearings, or inner driveshafts housing. The bearings on driveshafts are protected by the rubber like housing, from diets, grits, and even moisture laden corrosion. A torn driveshafts boot, would hasten corrosive activities, and attendant wear.
ADVICE. The next time you visit a repair or an alignment shop, do ask for the driveshafts boots be inspected for ruptures, and relubrication.
SOLUTION EMPLOYED
*replaced the disintegrated ball bearings on the driveshaft at the passenger side. See figures.1, and 2.
*regressed the passenger side driveshaft inner housing with light lithium based grease. Don't use heavy based grease please.
*the front passenger side wheel bearings were all replaced with a new one.

I hope this piece helps someone out there.
PS: Parts herein are from a 2005 Sienna I had worked on last month.
Ensure you actually carryout a test drive on the job done, to confirm it, before making payments to your mechanic.

@laudite. In case you want that fixed, drop us a line then. Ordering the battery from the USA is cool. Then its fixed here. Shikenan.

@diportivo. You can na, if you don de do am before.

@laudate. You're right o! There's one at my base, a Camry 07, that has an abs problem. Its being parked since last year. Hybrids cars don't require their batteries to be left unused for long. Now, the battery's showing signs of failure.
The option for your guy who has permanently parked the car is, he either waits for the economy to recover then buy a battery, or turn it in to a conventional car. Mind you, again. It might not be the hybrid battery that's the fault.