₦airaland Forum

@dharray2012. This is what I think has happened.
If the overheating got so much above the tolerance limit of the cylinder head, and engine blocks, as shown in this case study of the Honda I have just worked on, the cylinder head, or engine block would have being wapped already. This I mean, instead of the newly installed cylinder head gasket to provide proper sealing of the interface between the cylinder head and the engine block, you actually would have a leaky head gasket, resulting to a lack of compression.
Another cause I suspect could be one or all the inlet valves aren't firing properly. Check out the removed cylinder head from the car we worked on. From close inspections, you could see that the exhaust valves are brownish in colour, depicting that they fired properly. But the inlet valves looked blackish. The overheating affected that cylinder head, that we had to get another her one.

Also ask your mechanic to ensure all the wire harness connectors have being connected back. Especially the iVTEC actuator behind the cylinder head at the passenger side.

A ?? for you. Does the engine idle without misfires when it's idling? That's does it shake as though want to go off.?

If after checking all the above, and they're all intact, that means your engine block has suffered a major blow already.

INTRODUCTION
In some of the articles I have written so far on this platform about overheating problems, I did point out some of the major causes of over heating to be coolant leaks, or no coolant in the cooling system; faulty water pumps; faulty thermostats; corroded radiator systems, etc.

Today, I would be presenting a cause study of one of the engines we've just worked on.

Here we go NOW!

CASE STUDY
Vehicle type: Honda civic; 2doors
Mileage: 154, 752miles
Transmission type: Manual; front wheel drive.
Engine type: 4cylinder

CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINTS
Customer complains that temperature gauge suddenly reaches the peak level(highest); Steam comes out of the engine compartment; engine begins to misfires.
All these happened while the customer was in traffic around Oshodi Oke express road in Lagos State.

Complaints like these heralds "first degree" overheating. Those if you in the medical field, would know what I mean by first degree "overheating".
I'm just trying to draw a link between first degree burns, and terrible overheating.

Looking for a word that could describe how the owner of the car could have allowed the car to overheat to this stage.
What would have caused the engine to overheat, up to the extend that the engine oil gauge melts and breaks in to two halves?

Those are some the questions we would be trying to answer in this article.

TROUBLESHOOTING
This section would highlight what should be done, by a technically inclined car owner, or better still, the mechanic handling the job.
How was the problem tackled, and solved?

1. Car was wholly inspected; cooling system components were all checked for integrity.

*radiator cooling fan(s) was checked if the rotation was at the right setting. By this I meant, was the fan rotating in the right direction to extract hot air from the engine?
* physically examined the water pump for signs of leaks. There weren't any visible signs of leaks on the water pump housing, etc.
*radiator hoses were also checked for kinks, and signs of failure.

PS: Radiator hoses showing signs of weakness are usually soft like "kpomo", to the touch.
Radiator hoses like that, would fail during extreme temperature rises, because they won't be able to cope with the thermal differences of the engine under varying operating conditions.
So, the next time you go buying a used radiator hose, ensure you get a hose that's little bit harder than " kpomo".

*radiator system was checked, and we discovered that the radiator top, where coolant's being introduced was leaking.
To our greatest surprise, during close inspections, we further discovered that the junction that links the main radiator overflow tank, to the top of the radiator has sometimes ago being sealed using 5minute gum(a hard kind of gum, people claim could hold together pieces of plastics/metals together).

WHAT CAUSED THE OVERHEATING IN THE FIRST PLACE
Some of you might want to know what really cased the engine to overheat in the first place?

Well, from our troubleshooting and analysis, the major cause of the overheating was due to the customer's "manage!!!" attitude.
He had trued to save some "bucks" by mending the radiator filling section, at the top of the radiator.
He had successfully done that, and had never thought such GLUES doesn't last.
He was running away from buying a new, or fairly used radiator system.
Emmmmmm, for your information, he's a car dealer. Please o!, don't tell them I told you that's what SOME of them do, to make "stupendous" profit.

THE FIX. WHAT WE DID!
From looking at the engine oil dipstick, you could see how the extremely high temperatures the engine has gone through, melted the dipstick.
That tells me, the engine block, and cylinder head must have being wapped. I mean, they must have undergone thermal expansions, above the manufacturer's set threshold, or limit.
In such situations, the car is at risk of engine damage.
Using such engine block, could only complicate issues.

ADVICE TO CAR OWNERS
*Keep your eyes on the temperature gauge while driving.
Your car's temperature shouldn't exceed the 1/2 mark. If it does, you've got some issues with the cooling system.

*Don't manage your cooling system components. They're critical to your car's operating efficiency.
From this case study, you can see that this client,
decided to "manage", by applying some sort of adhesive material to seal the broken supply outlet to the overflow tank.
The consequences are just so enormous to handle.
This repair, cost him replacing the top cylinder head completely.

CONCLUSIONS
A car's cooling system is very critical to it's operation.
Any distortion in it's dynamics, would terribly jeopardize it's efficiency.
" Managing" any of a car's cooling system, such has being done by this client, shouldn't be a permanent fix, but a temporal one. For instance, if you're stuck somewhere, along Lagos-Ibadan Expressway. A temporal fix could be done, with the intention of bringing the car safely to your mechanic.
A stitch in time saves 10(that's my own saying o!).


Please, I need your criticisms o!


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
www.facebook.com/DW - Dexterwise Nig Ltd

@macsilver. That SRS airbag light ON, was for a Camry '98. For this car, the light indicates a malfunction with the SRS system. Its supposed to be OFF, when the ignition is on for some seconds, or when driving. If your cars SRS system is inactive, the light would be on. You need to have it scanned, and fixed.

Hope that answers your ??.

@inception. You mean everything in the article is wrong, or some sections?
The information provided in this article, weren't just cooked up from my head.
You said airbags could deploy, even with or without the use of seat belts.
Check out this article. Its part of the reference I used. Maybe it would convince you somewhat.

http://www.takata.com/en/around/airbag01.html

Keep them coming though.
I'm here to learn too!

@whizpeter. I won't know if the reason for their deaths was as a result of non use the seat belt. I'm not privy to such info right now.
But to put the records straight, without seat belts, the SRS would never deploy. Its kind of similar to a closed circuit system.
If for instance, you've got fluids flowing in a closed system, and there is a leak along the circuit, low output pressure and malfunctions would be the outcome(system dysfunction).

@mccalito. I'm very sorry, couldn't respond ASAP.
You can spot the difference right away, if the car is a hybrid, or not. Read through that article I wrote about identifying hybrid cars. Its got lots of info for you. Another way you could do that if you aren't sure is to go look at the car with a professional.

Regards,
Joseph
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532(WhatsApp and calks)

@ben. sorry it took me awhile to respond to your inquiries. I have got no representative in PH.

Further inquiries,
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532(WhatsApp and calls)

INTRODUCTION
If for instance, a survey is conducted on major roads of cities across some developing countries like, Nigeria, it would behoove you to realise that almost more than half of them, have got NO SRS(supplement restraint system).

What some of us would refer to as "airbag".
In reality, there's nothing like an airbag. What most people know as " airbags" are called SRSs.
What we have is a nylon made bag, filled up with NITROGEN gas, during deployment.
So, if the other vehicles, for instance like the "danfos, articulated trucks and trailers of the colonial era", still ply those roads, what do you think would be the ripple effects of such a safety dysfunction(absence airbags), considering these vehicles are often seen in populated neighborhoods?

Definitely their would be more accidents, deaths, and deprivations of all kinds.
Even the existing vehicles are not totally protected from the risks vehicles without a SRS incur.

It is in regard to this, that auto car makers, seek to daily improve on their onboard safety features such as seat belts, driver side, and passenger side " airbags ".
Today, companies such as GM, Toyota, are in the forefront of incorporating SRS on occupants at the rear whose got no SRSs and/or seat belts.

WHAT THEN IS AN AIRBAG(SUPPLEMENT RESTRAINT SYSTEM)?

A simple definition would be a system, that is deployed, within a twinkling of an eye, to safeguard occupants of a vehicle during collisions(accidents).
Looking at the pictures below, some of you might be tempted to think the white apron displayed on these vehicles are inflated balloons. You are right to some extent.
But in reality, they're not " gallons". They're nylon made apron, inflated with nitrogen gas, to protect the driver after(before) an accident.

¶¶¶¶¶SRA system are meant to be deployed, only when they're used in conjunction with the seat belts. ¶¶¶¶¶¶
Ensure seat belts are used when you drive.

SYSTEM OF OPERATION
The operations of the SRS are in stages.
If you're familiar with how sensors work, and how their actions are translated, you'll be amazes how technology has made our lives more comfortable.
That same principle applies here.

[[[[[Those in the military establishment would better understand these stages. Especially those in the missiles section, and artillery brigades.]]]]]]

They're as follows:
1. Sensing. Just like you have maximum and minimum thermometers installed at various locations by meteorologist, to capture temperature data, the same thing happens with the sensing mechanism of an "airbag" system. It detects the collision, and relays the message back to the car's ECU (engine control unit) for evaluation.

¶¶¶¶¶¶

****Ensure your cars airbag systems are functional.
HOW DO YOU KNOW A FUNCTIONAL SRS?

**On the ignition to ON, check that all the dashboard lights come on.
**Start the engine. Check that all lights on the dash goes OFF.
This is the KILLER.
If you discover that the "airbag " (SRS) continuous to lit, that tells you the airbag is defective, and in an accident, won't deploy.
¶¶¶¶¶¶

2. Evaluation stage. At this point, the data collected from the sensor diagnostic module(SDM), is processed by the ECU, to determine when it's right for the deployment activation and deployment of the SRS system.
The cars ECU, makes this decisions within split of a seconds, in the range of milliseconds (20-30miliseconds), even faster than your eyes can blink.
Such data are compared again a reference value, before activation is sought.

3. ACTIVATION STAGE. At this point, the ECU has already compared received data with the reference one, and have decided to engage the "missile", to strike the enemy (collisions).
The nylon made apron is inflated with NITROGEN gas, and ready for DEPLOYMENT.

4. DEPLOYMENT STAGE. In collisions, during an accident, the occupants of a car tend to move forward in a split second towards the dashboard area, increasing the risks of injuries and/or death, during an impact.
At this stage, the airbag has gathered all necessary data for deployment, such as the passenger/driver body movements.
Such deployments of this safety system, I. conjunction with the body movements of the occupants of the vehicle, counteracts the collisional impacts from the accident.

The picture below of the deployed airbag seen on these cars saves the lives of the drivers in the cars.
Imagine if those cars has got no SRS on them. What would have happened to those people?

PS: The next time you go buy a car somewhere, run the SRS system test before buying that car.
You might be saving yourself, and even lives.
Ensure the SRS lights aren't lit on the dashboard more than some seconds.
If the SRS/airbag lights lit, you either repair or replace components associated with the defect.
In some cases, I have discovered auto makers like Toyota, advice customers to replace an entire system, if there's a defect in the SRS system.

NB: Pictures were taken by me of real live events.

¶¶¶¶TRICKS SOME CAR DEALERS EMPLOY ¶¶¶¶
THE BLACK ELECTRICIANS TAPE thing
Check this out: IF THE IGNITION IS ON, AND ALL LIGHTS CAME ON, WITHOUT THE SRS/AIRBAG LIGHTS COMING ON FOR SOME SECONDS, SUSPECT THE SRS/AIRBAG LIGHT HAS BEING COVERED WITH ELECTRICIAN'S TAPE.

CONCLUSION
Driving a car without this safety feature, should be a major concern to you.
Its worth it, paying more for safety, than paying for the consequences thereafter.

¶¶¶ STAY SAFE, DRIVE SAFE, AND THINK SAFE!¶¶

Hope this helps!

Regards,
Joseph

Email: oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
Facebook:
www.facebook.com/dexterwise-dw nig ltd
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(call+WhatsApp)

@igbanbajo. That's cool then

@gazzuzz. OK. Have never seen one. What have seen and experienced on such cars are codes thrown because of oil overfilled. Asides that, have not seen any on the ones I have worked on.

@kjnwancaro. Yes.

@gazzuzz. No backtracking yet o! Just forward tracks with that oil o! Depends on which side of the fence you're sitting on.
People get a whole lots if information on the internet. But it boils down to which one to accept.

@richmayak1. Thanks a 1000x. Let me give you some $$$$ss. How much you want? 3000$ go do you na?!

Hi, guys. It's awhile. I want to thank you guys for your comments on the last article I wrote about "How you too could identify a hybrid car. What dealers aren't telling you".
Well, if anyone's ox being gored, I'm terribly sorry. Especially, if you're a dealer, and you somewhat feel this article might hamper on your sales output this season. But I think, its not just YOU, making profit. Its about the BUYER'S hard earned resources at stake here.

OK. let's set in motion, Newton's third law of motion now.
Actions and reactions are equal and opposite.

I'm writing this article today, in potential response to some of the concerns have gotten concerning the last article.
Some folks have asked. " What do we look out for, when we finally have a hybrid car, or already own one?".

Deciding to own a hybrid car, doesn't end there.
You got to know what the likely maintenance related issues are, with your particular kind if hybrid car brand. Suffice to say that almost all hybrid car manufacturers share same symptoms of problems from their cars.

The scope of hybrid brand in this article, would cover Toyota hybrids(HSD).

information provided here can be applied to other hybrid brands, in consonance with the manufacturers vehicle manual.

I take no responsibility for your wrong interpretations of the information therein in this article.

If you aren't comfortable working on a hybrid car, row it to the dealership, or get a competent mechanic with knowledge of electronics to handle that for you.

YOU OWN A HYBRID NOW!? WHAT DO YOU WATCH OUT FOR?

1. ABS BRAKE ACTUATOR SYSTEM.
Its a system that's hydraulically and electronically controlled by the cars separate ECU(for the brake actuator).
The actuator brake system, could easily develop faults, due to:

*not using the recommended brake fluids; dirty already existing brake fluids in the brake system reservoir(its usually black in colour) suggesting worn out rubber seals within the brake master, etc;

*leakages at the actuator system itself. This system is both hydraulically and electronically controlled by a separate ECU. This ecu is usually underneath the steering volume, by the left side knee of the driver.

*improper brake bleeding procedure. The front brakes in a Toyota hybrid car are bled using the normal process as employed in a conventional car, while the rear brakes, are bled using a scan tool. The rear bleeding procedure is highly technical. All air bubbles in the rear, and the abs actuator must be bled properly. If this isn't done, its going to be ages trying to expel all the air from the system

*electrical short circuits within the actuator's circuitry, or ABS solenoids relays are reasons for failures.

*The brakes ECU too is a likely culprit area you've got to check, if troubles pop up.
From my experience troubleshooting stuffs like this, I have discovered that when the ABS actuator system fails, the VSC, check brake, etc lights lit up the dashboard, or the MFD. In such situations, the abs motor solenoid relays keeps shorting the circuits. And no matter's done to rectify the fault, if those motor relays aren't replaced, a replacement abs actuator system would suffer the same fate as its predecessor.

THE FIX: Scan the car, if you've got a brake related trouble code; use OEM recommended brake fluids; rectify any abs related issues immediately.

PS: Check the brake fluid reservoir cover for the specifications of brake fluids to use. Some manufacturers don't recommend sulphur based brake fluids. You could also check your cars manual to be sure.


2. INVERTER/CONVERTER ASSEMBLY.
That's the component that sits at the left hand side of your Prius, Camry, or even the Highlander hybrids, at the bonnet. It houses the electronics that coordinates all the activities going on from the hybrid battery to providing motion for the wheels. The electronic components in the inverter circuitry are immersed in a jelly like substance that acts a an insulator, and a heat dissipate.
The inverter /converter assembly is water cooled, using Toyota's SLL(super long life coolant).

This system works under tremendous loads, and has to be cooled, just like a cars cooling system, in order not to fry the inverter assembly.
If the assembly is dead, your car would never move. Its similar to having the transmission system on a non hybrid car damaged.

THE FIX:
Use approves Toyota inverter coolants in the inverter reservoir; using water, would only make things worst. Water has a good thermal conductivity, but when it gets to a certain temperature, it's ability to maintain that thermally is compromised. That's why Toyota's SLL fluid was designed with patented additives to compensate for where the use of ordinary water has failed.
When you use Toyota's SLL coolant, you're prolonging the lifespan of the inverter system.

PS: SLL- Super long life. This coolant has already being premixed from the factory.
Do not MIX it with water or anything. That would mar it's effectiveness.

KILLERS OF INVERTER ASSEMBLY
****Overheating of the inverter assembly as a result electric pump failure""***
***Low on inverter coolants***

3. INVERTER/CONVERTER ELECTRIC PUMP
The pump, is located underneath the inverter assembly. Its an electrically operated pump, and not a mechanical one.

WHAT CAN DAMAGE THE PUMP
**It is intolerant to debris/grits. They impact heavily on the impellers of the pump, thereby reducing the volume of coolants the pump can pump through the inverter assembly for efficient cooling.

**Air bubbles inside the pump, as a result of leaks, low coolant levels in the reservoir, can cause harm to the system(pump and inverter ).
Incorrect bleeding procedure, after an inverter pump has being replaced.

**if your car is an old car, be prepared for some sort of pump failure someday.
Imagine you bought your Prius 2002 from the USA, as a used car. That car would have being being 14years by now, and maybe has got like say, 200, 000mikes on it. Definitely, the pump, would have already started operating below specifications, vis-à-vis the volume of coolants it could move around the inverter assembly's cooling system.
It would be technically wise to replace the pump, as a preventive maintenance service.

4. AUXILIARY BATTERY.
Its a 12volt battery, that only powers the electronics of the car.
Its located at the eight hand side of the boot.
For instance, its responsible for the powering up the accessories, head lights, horns, etc. Since hybrid cars do not have kick starters, the battery isn't used in stating the car.
Batteries (cells) age with time. Don't expect your batteries to last forever, or even for 5years.
In some cars, we've seen batteries lasting for only 2years.

THE FIX:
If its a wet(lead) celled battery, ensure the specific gravity test is within spec.
Your battery man should be able to determine this for you, using a hydrometer. If the specific gravity doesn't meet up with the standard, the battery should be recharged.
Overcharging a battery, would definitely reduce the lifespan of a battery.

5. ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR.
This are DENSOR made compressor, very delicate, and requires proper attention, when problems sets in.

WHAT KILLS THEM? I'll say those compressors don't just DIE, but you might be responsible for the problem.

**Using not recommended compressor oils would damage the compressor.
Recommended compressor oil for Toyota is ND11, and not ND8. ND8 is used in the normal belt driven compressor on conventional cars.
Check with your car manual for the right specification for your car's brand.

*insufficient refrigerant gas could definitely cause an Ac system failure; and the use of substandard refrigerants.

*clogged condenser, would cause the Ac system to automatically shut down, during operation.
Remember. Your car's condenser is the Ac system's "radiator", for effectively cooling the compressor.

*Using wrong cooling refrigerant gas.

6. HYBRID BATTERY.
This is where many hybrid car owners get discouraged buying, or even contemplate selling their hybrid cars.
This is a DC battery with a combined nominal voltage in the hundreds. Though this varies from hybrid car brands and the vehicle type.
Refer to your car's manual for more info about the nominal voltage if your car.
This is the battery, with the real potential to electrocute, that powers your car's hybrid system(inverter/converter assembly, Ac system compressor, electric motors/generators, etc).
Any slight deviation from the car's standard voltage, would have negative impacts on your car, ranging from the car not starting, etc.
This type of batteries are different from the auxiliary battery, in such that their electrodes, are embedded in a highly conductive electrolyte(potassium hydroxide), in a well sealed battery pack.
They're save, environmentally friendly, and lasts more than the 12volt battery.

THE FIX: Don't park the car for more than a week, without driving it. If you won't be around for a long while, give it to a friend to help with cruising it in your absence **""""""""**********


In the coming week, we'll be discussing the BATTERIES FOR THESE CARS, AND HOW YOU COULD BE BETTER OF USING THEM

IF YOU'VE GOT ??s, DROP US YOUR COMMENT(S) ON THE COMMENT BAR.

PLS IF YOU OWN A TOYOTA HYBRID, COULD YOU SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCE(S) WITH US ON THIS FORUM?
I SURE BET YOU, IT WOULD HELP SOMEONE HERE.


Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
08066643532(call and/ or WhatsApp)

@marv1: Here's the contact
Calls and/or WhatsApp: 08066643532 oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

@valarinze. Apportioning blame? OK.
Fellow car buyers, before you buy a car anywhere, do your research well. If you want s great and nice car with more value, you've got to prepare for the bucks. But don't expect to get a completely nice ride for some few bucks.
Hehehe! Hope case closed now, Oga?

@kulee. You're a smart man o! How you faring?

@valarinz. I get what your concerns are. But I think it's better you present the clients with all the products and/or services you have. Its left for the clients to decide which they want. I think the problems with most dealers is, they just want to have their ROI fast. Just be fair and emphatic with them. When you explain things to them, they'll see you as someone not desperate for their money.

@mccarlito. There's a hybrid version for the 2015 Avalon.
Check out some of the pictures I got online for you.

@whizpeter. We're well able to be at owerri. Arrange for transport, etc, you'll see us there.

@whiz. Depends on how you see it o! In this fuel subsidy removal, you even need hybrids more.
There are hybrid experts. But they're somewhat I. the minority.

@wahab!!!!Thanks for the commendation o! Just trying to make a difference.

@kennetwork.

Kenny!!!!. Thanks for the commendation. I'm just trying to make a stake difference from the crowd, as an automotive engineer.

1. Yes, my service(s) works the way you've asked. Have done several for clients , and have sent either a verbal, or a written report to them via email.

2. '05 GX470 VS 07/08 RX350

GX470:
If you've gone over the article I wrote about "considerations for buying a car, and what dealers won't tell you", you'll observe that asides some of the points I have explained in there, you've got know what you want to use that car for. Is it for the family's use; do you want roomy cars? Can you foot the maintenance bill?
The car is a V8 engine, 4.7L capacity. Has tremendous torque to it. Its the same engine type you've in a Toyota tundra, and even the Toyota 4Runners. Its reliable, and durable. But my concern is, asides WANTING TO USE IT AS A SECOND HAND, what else is LURKING in your mind about that car?
If you're insisting on this car, be sure the engine management parts of the car is intact. Thus I mean, no check lights responsible for fuel consumption issues, such as a P0300....random misfires, vacuum leaks. All these, would hamper on your fuel economy.

RX350:
Thus SUV is a V6 engine, with a 3.5L engine capacity. Its a more recent car, and the fuel savings is cool.
If you car about aesthetics, the interior design is fantastic. The design is an improvement from the rx300. A lot of modifications abound.
Both cars come with central navigation systems, with a rear camera for safety.
On both cars, both the front and rear seats presents enough leg room for passengers.
They've got enough cargo room. You can collapse the seats, to achieve this.
For the RX 350, in this economy hard times, and the removal of fuel subsidies, the car would be a better choice.

This is just a bit of the info I can present to you now.

PS: Both cars could be used for SECOND HAND CARS.
TELL ME WHAT YOU REALLY WANT. WOUKD BETTER ABLE TO ADVICE YOU.

Could you please contact me here:
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532(you can also WhatsApp with the number).

@veekid. You might be right. But my kind of person, is someone who likes going into details. For instance, if you've got a car with a particular issue, I wouldn't just go ahead and solve the issue, using my EXPERIENTIAL knowledge alone; but would take time troubleshooting the fault. So, I think I like spending time this way. If its possible for me to respond to everyone on thus platform, would gladly do it. But you know na, say I. human. So, would get tired.
I plan my time though. Spend the working in field, then maybe at night draft my articles.
How's being the day with you? Hope you're cool.

@chimex. You can restart the fuel, as long as you've got the car refilled.
The hybrid car can start, because at that initial starts, the cars ECU must have sensed that you perhaps just want to warm the car. But if its with the intention of driving it not too far a distance, you can.

@stabilini. Your name sounds like an Italian. I'm joking though. As regards the battery, the price range for a used one in Lagos is from 250-300k.
The new ones are expensive. Running into thousands of dollars.
You could also order for the battery from the USA, maybe from HARBOUR FREIGHT, or some other ones.
PS: pls you've got to be careful with the battery you buy. Test them to be sure.
It really matters, if the owner of the car tells you that the battery isn't IMPORTANT. What then would augment the power of the engine and ....; and what makes it a hybrid car then?
Here's my info, if you want further help:

oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532

Hi guys. I do hope my previous two articles on CAR PURCHASES, and IDENTIFYING hybrid cars, did help?
Well, by the way. I'm optimistic all of these information, would present some "tangible" benefits to now, or in the future. I know its not easy. But I think it's for your benefit.

GOING FOR A HYBRID?
What do you consider, when you've made up your mind(s), to purchase a hybrid car.
Do your MATH. If you've got the money for a hybrid car, consider the following Info when you get to the car stand/dealer:

∆have you already located a hybrid expert close to your locality? If you've not done that, you better do.

∆get there in the MORNING. Not afternoon please.

∆open the bonnet, and xray the engine, and the hybrid systems (inverter/converter assembly, electric compressor, water pump, inverter electric pump, etc. No signs of repairs, you know you're cool there. Pleas also check the engine oil dipstick. If urs extremely filled with sludges, you know that engine has got lots if poor maintenance regime.

∆get inside the car, and put on the ignition, and observe for the READY light on the dashboard. With the ready light on, it means the vehicle is already in operation.
NB: Please, do not stay at the front of the car, when the READY light is ON.
For safety reasons, stay by the SIDE. This is because, the car could be driven suddenly, without you realising.

∆operate all the accessories (Ac system, navigation system, if it has)

∆ask to go for a test drive. Let your eyes be on the energy monitor. The energy monitor is like the navigation system, that shows you how the battery is being charged and discharged.
Let your eyes and eyes be OPENED for malfunction indicator lights on the dashboard.
****if while driving and you notice CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM on the dashboard, you've to be careful.
Request that you'll want the car SCANNED, before making any commitment.
Dome of those TERRIBLE lights, may not appear on some of the cars. Such lights may have being tempered with, because fraudulent car dealers abound.
This is what they would do:
Called an electrician (rewire) to remove the dashboard, and seal the malfunction light bulbs with tape. That way, when you intend to see the lights, there would be none.

∆check the mileage of the car. if it has hone through say, 200,000miles, you already know the battery maybe coming to the end of it's lifespan.
Battery cells in those hybrid battery modules get weak with time.

∆when you're satisfied with the following checks, you could go ahead with your payment.
Ask for guarantees.

∆save some bucks, just in case for a hybrid battery in the future.

HOW DO YOU SAFELY MAINTAIN YOUR HYBRID BATTERY

*ensue your cars Ac system is efficiently working. The hybrid battery uses the car's Ac system cooling system to cool the battery. Ensure the Ac system is working perfectly.

*ensure the hybrid blower fan isn't clogged with dust.
Dust prevents the flow of air across the battery modules, via the blower ducts.
Air vents behind the rear seats for the hybrid battery should be blocked. There should be free flow of air.

These strategies would save you a lot of headaches in the future.
These information presented above also applies to non hybrid cars as well.

Cheers, guys.

Regard,
Igono Joseph Okeme
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

@ben. Hybrid cars are just cool. If you do your math for maintenance cost of the car, say for a year, you'll notice you're saving lots of bucks as compared to none hybrid cars.
As for contacts in PH, would check my contacts and get back to ya.

@charlieboy. Hybrid cars can't drive even if they've got no fuel. In the case you've ran out of fuel, and the you've got some "juice" stored in the battery, it could only take you a short distance.
With improvements in battery technology now, car manufacturers are looking into other more sustainable batteries with a high energy density.
Driving without fuel, would be applicable to only ELECTRIC vehicles. I think GM has got one of the impressive electric cars that could drive long distances. Its called Chevrolet leaf, or something like that.
Another reason you can't drive it without fuel is the battery cells are made up of NIMH( nikel metal hydride). It has a good energy density, but the problem is it discharges easily. So, that's why hybrids ate not to be left parked without being driven or warmed. Hybrid car makers use NIMH batteries because of its also cheap, compared yo others.

@jonaruson. Thanks for the commendations. Other posts are still on the way. Ranging from anything automotive.

@chepy1. You rock men!
How you doing? Hope you're great?

@austusjac. I think you've one at Ajidingbi, close to LTV premises, Ikeja. But other ones abound too. That's the one I can remember for now.

@chronique. You're perfectly right. I had a hybrid Camry 08 brought to me to replace the abs actuator pump, last year, 2015, Oct. But owner, just didn't do anything about it. I have being singing to the owner that hybrid batteries are expensive, and they suffer deterioration under tremendous temperatures, and non usage of the car for long. My Cluent kept mute. Just last week, called and said he's ready for the job. I carried out preliminary checks on the car before starting the job. Could you believe what happened? The vehicle couldn't start, and the READY light blinks 2ce, then went off. Scanned the car, and got this code: P0AFA: Battery system low voltage. Carried out available voltage tests OCC(Open circuit charge) on the hybrid modules, and discovered about 8modules were less than the nominal voltage of 7.2. Almost the bad modules read 0.8, 2.2;........
So, you're perfectly correct. If you don't want to spend money on batteries, maintain it.

@mu2sa2 and unclezuma. I agree with you. There are others forms of energy that could power a hybrid vehicle.
Just like you rightly said, you've solar, biofuels.
The word HYBRID, just means joining of something in two. For instance, you could say, " there's recently being a hybrid(cross fertilization) of ideas by members of the opposition, and the ruling party in Nigeria ".
The hybrid, is just the combination of two energy sources to move the vehicle.
Toyota prefers to call its hybrid systems, HSD(Hybrid synergy drive), because it combines both energy sources.
There are already cars using biofuels in the USA. Manufacturers also have full electric. There are solar cars also available, but in the few. But in such designs for a solar powered hybrid car, you'd have to consider weight issues for the solar panels to be positioned on the roof, and the number of panels needed to generate its nominal voltage(they're in the hundreds).
I would try as much as possible to reduce technical jargons next time a write.
LNG? Yes they're available. You've such cars in UK, and the USA.
Here's an example, I have noticed. Have you ever seen some of Dangote trucks with green cylinders behind the engine? Those stuffs run on LNG. When they are exhausted, they should switch to their diesel source. Don't you notice such trucks don't even emit emissions? But what size of cylinders would be needs to power the electric motors in a hybrid cars? Except the designers have alternatives.
The world, especially in the USA, where you've a lot of innovations going on to reduce their dependence on foreign oil, they use biofuels, which are sources from sugar cane, special grasses, grains, etc to make such fuels. But this has led to protest by environmental groups, and is presently causing food shortages in some African countries, like South Sudan. Some companies from the West, have bought large hectares of agricultural lands for the purpose of biofuels development.

@kingreign. You de funny o! How's Sunday na?Hope you're enjoying it?

@emymikee. Yes, sir! Hybrid cars don't have alternators to charge the hybrid battery.
For instance, let's take a Toyota Prius hybrid. the transmission system contains the two motor generators (1&2). I won't go into the specifics here. But would just give you an over view. As you drive the car coasting on the streets, or coming to a stop, you've what's called REGENERATIVE BRAKING. What this system does is that, when you apply the brakes at close to a stop, one of the electric motors converts the kinetic energy of the wheels, into a form of energy to charge the hybrid battery.
In summary, let me say one of the electric motors positioned in the transmission system is what utilizes the kinetic energy from the wheels, and converts it to a DC voltage high enough to charge the battery.

@exponrntal.We've got hybrid guys in naija. I fix hybrid cars too. Most of the pictures I display here are some of the jobs have done.
It's just that hybrid pros ate in the minority.

@baskiboy. You de funny jor.

@zaicom! Electrical qualms? Didn't get hi o!

@eternalbeing. You're somewhat right. If you say "when oil finally finishes", that means that form of hybrid won't be necessary. Because almost the hybrid cars we've in naija are combination of petrol and electric motors power source(s). We maybe needing biofuels, solar, hydrogen, or even full electric cars.

@angelTI. Let me break the definition down for you.
Its a vehicle that derives its source of power for movement, from both its internal combustion engine (petrol, or diesel), and electric motors (the motors are located in the transmission, and their drive slimes protrude to the front driveshafts). Asides, electric source, solar power, etc could be used.
If you better still don't understand, let's say, two married couples want to get children. Either of them can't get child(ren), without both sexes mating. The mating part, is what I call the HYBRID. The outcome of the mating, is a child(the movement the hybrid car engages in, taking you to your destination). I really hope you got this explanation?
Thanks for the questions though.

@veekid. Nawao! That na car of the colonial era na.

@

@paperlace
Don't get what you mean by "transfer faster".
For the "special" about them, they're are environmentally friendly (less emissions, and noise); you save more on fuel consumptions in such a way that, for instance, when you're driving in town, or coming to a traffic stop, the internal consumption engine is shut off, by the car's ECU, and the electric motor(s) begins to operate at that period. At that sane time also, you've what's called REGENERATIVE Braking. This means as you slow down, or apply the brakes at every stop, the motor generator recharges the hybrid battery. Remember hybrid cars don't have ALTERNATORS AND STARTERS. If you do a comparison of the fuel consumption rate between a conventional car, you'll realise that at every GO, the conventional car(petrol) only, is running, while the hybrid is already on electric mode, thereby saving tremendous amounts of fuel.

If you're talking about speed, consider for example, a Toyota corolla 2009/10, and a Prius hybrid. Both have the same engine type(1NR). Both of them have the sane engine capacity. They can be used for journeys. But for the hybrid, it has an added advantage in which the electric motors adds more torque to the engine. This is because, at that mode, the ECU of the car, combines both source of power(petrol and electric motors).

NB:/Embarking in such journeys, ensure your cars battery is at full capacity and in good condition. Because failure to do so, entails you have to be prepared for sleeping in a hotel. Because if it breaks down, no mechanic might be able to fix it.

**They last longer? Well, from my experience, and the research have done online, hybrid cars, especially Toyota brands last longer even than their conventional counterparts because of its ability to switch from one drive mode to the other. They don't engage in all drive situation like the other non hybrid vehicles. So, the mileage, in my view, would be less. But the problem is if you want to get more out of a hybrid vehicle, be prepared to invest in the battery, just in case you'd have a failure.

@nurey. You are such a funny fellow. Touching the hybrids outer casing(the pack) does nothing. But emmmm, if your hand gets close to the ORANGE cables in the pack, without you having gloves on, you're looking to be "indestructible". I don't want that for now to be adduced to my write up o!
How you de na?

@wancaro. Thanks for the commendation!!!!

@whizpeter. You need am o!
You must be extremely careful with any hybrid vehicle.
If you've got no formal trainings in electronics handling, its better you allow professionals to help you sort things out.
But you know say you funny so, whizpeters? Emmmm, "lemme go read am".

@TEGA!!!!!? How far na? Men, I'm just trying to educate lot of folks out there, whose got dome myths about hybrid cars, and how people could differentiate them from conventional cars.

Hope you're OK!?

I identifying a hybrid car, shouldn't be all that different, or strange.
Most of the car brands today in the hybrid market, have one thing or the other that have set them apart as leaders in their various fields.
It should not be difficult for you to spot a hybrid car, that has just gone pass you down the street, or on the road.
For instance, this information would only be based on Toyota's Hybrid Synergy Drive.
Toyota calls its hybrid system, HSD, meaning it derives it's motion from a combination of either the internal combustion engine, or the electric motors attached to its CVT(continuous variable transmission).

HOW DO YOU IDENTITY A HYBRID?

* Toyota uses its hybrid logo, positioned at the passenger side front end, and on the rear of the car.

* You notice when the car passes by you when driven, you hardly hear any noise. Though thus varies according to the speed demand ad at that time. If for instance, the ECU (engine control unit) determines that the vehicle demands more speed and torque, the computer commands either both the engine and the electric motors to be in synchronization when driving. But if it(computer) decides less torque might be needed, the electric motors would be ones to keep running.

*You hardly see any emissions coming out if the tail pipe. However, emissions level could be visible, if only the internal combustion aspect of the system is ON.
The reason being that the buy products of fuel combustion is usually CO2, and others.

*It has two batteries positioned at the rear.
The small one is usually a 12Volt's battery, which powers the electronics of the car. Electronics such as radios and the rest.
The other battery, commonly called a hybrid battery or a traction battery, has a nominal voltage of 244.8volts(thus is for a Camry hybrid, 2008).
The voltages of batteries varies from one Toyota hybrid to the other, according to the number of cells a the battery pack.
Such batteries have the capability to electrocute one to death. So, please if you are not a qualified hybrid technician, it's advisable you stay away from hybrid cars.

*At the hood(bonnet), you have what's called an inverter/converter assembly. It resembles a conventional battery somewhat. Its positioned where your normally battery would be at the front.
The inverter/assembly system inverts and converts the hybrid battery's voltage from 244.8 to almost more than twice the nominal voltage, needed to power the electric motors that drive the car.

*Presence of ORANGE cables routed from the battery through to the front. The cables are equivalent to carriers of high tension voltages on our normal transmission lines on the street. I mean when touched carelessly, can electrocute someone. This cables are connected to your car's electric Ac system, and water pump.

*The radiator coolant and the inverter coolants are separated differently.

* Power steering is electrically driven, and has a separate ECU for its operation. You don't see power steering fluids, and spills anywhere in the engine compartment.

*The transmission is superb. It houses the two electric motors responsible for driving the car electrically, and charging the hybrid battery.
The transmission is a variable continuous one, meaning, when you drive, the engagement is not felt as the normal traditional automatics, where you feel the selections as the transmission selects.
The transmission also uses a special transmission fluid called Toyota's World Standard fluid. Any other fluids, would KILL the transmission system.

*The braking systems are bled differently. You can bleed the front brakes as a normal conventional car, while the rear, requires special softwares for its operation. The rear brakes are operated by the brake actuator, and if proper tools aren't used for the bleeding process, it would take ages to be able to bleed the air out of the rear brake system because of accumulated air bubbles.

*A READY indicator comes on, when the hybrid is being started.

*No READY indicator light ON, indicates the car is not ON.
*Please do not assume a hybrid vehicle is OFF, simply because there isn't any sound coming from the bonnet area. As long as the READY indicator comes ON, the car is already in the Drive mode.
Remember. Hybrid cars don't have kick starters, and alternators.

With this piece, you shouldn't find it difficult differentiating between a hybrid and a normal car, when you encounter one.

PS: The last picture is a picture of a Camry hybrid battery I worked on some weeks ago. Carrying out voltage tests to identify some bad modules.

@abdeiz. Perfect comment by you. That's the kind of stuffs I do. Carry out pre-purchase inspections of a car for a potential buyer. We look at everything thing in a car. Including the electrical aspects, interiors, everything. We then email the report straight to you, so that you could make informed decisions before getting committed.

@abdeiz. Gaskiya kam. You're right o! Lots of people carry their relatives, or friends to buy a car, just simply because the person has being driving cars fro years, or .....
A professional is quiet different from someone whose just got the experience driving cars, or stuffs like that.
I don't just get sometimes. Why would one want to spend huge fortunes taking risks, instead of maybe spending some bucks carrying out an inspections purchase?

Hope you're cool?