₦airaland Forum

@rescue. You may be right as you've said. The range sport is still operational. Well, let's allow all this rest. Its a choice everyone has got to make.
Hope you doing cool men!

Nigeria, being the most populous country on the continent, with a population of over 170 million people, is a major business hub for corporations all over the world. Especially, popular automotive brands like Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Ford, etc., are already establishing their assembly plants in Nigeria, just in order to meet up with the high demands for vehicles by Nigerians ( courtesy of the National Automotive Policy put in place by former President Jonathan’s administration).

With the harsh economic realities facing Nigeria right now, one would have thought that the rate of vehicle purchases would drop. But if you've being observant, the same Nigerians that would say there isn't money, are the same ones busy buying exotic cars. Well, I don't care whether its a new or used one.
The most important thing is, Nigerians are still buying cars daily.
This has come with its attendant problems also, ranging from increased emissions levels, accidents, high maintenance costs, and unscheduled breakdown.
I don't think anyone would be happy, going for an OWANBE party, and suddenly the car he/she bought for 3-5million naira breaks down on the road, just because of the insincerity of car dealers, and the REFUSAL of car buyers to hire the services if a professional to carry out proper inspections on the car.

The following factors would help you make informed decision(s) before buying any car of your choice.

1. DETERMINE THE BRAND YOU WANT Research on more than one brand of car. This would widen your choice options.
All vehicles employ the same dynamics in their operations, but not all brands are reliable, depending on the purpose to which that vehicle is being considered for purchase.
Reliable brands can be determined for instance, by you establishing some set of benchmarks like reliability, durability, and maintenance costs, etc., and measuring it up with your preferred brand, and getting feedbacks from friends, families, vehicle operators on your street, etc. It is better to spend a week or a day researching on your preferred brand, than spending a whole life time regretting why you bought the vehicle you bought.

2. WHY DO YOU NEED A CAR?
When the purpose of a thing is not known, the purpose of its application is defeated. Don’t just buy a car because your friend has bought one, or because you have won a jackpot. If you can’t answer why you need a car right now, then you just don’t need any either. Your ability to answer this question, would help you decide if the car you are considering would be a 4cylinder, 6 cylinder, or a 12cylinder engine; or an SUV, a mini SUV, or a truck, for private (family, or office use) or commercial (transportation, or otherwise) purpose.

3. MAINTENANCE COST.
You could determine the average maintenance cost of owning your particular choice brand of car by personally carrying out price investigations of basic parts such as oil filters, fuel filters, engine and transmission or gear fluids, brake pads, etc., if you would be the one to carry out basic maintenance yourself. But if you are not dexterous with tools, simply ask your potential mechanic for the cost of labour for repairs such as oil change, brake pad replacement, and compare the cost to see how much you might be spending in the future.
Another way you could get this feedback is to request for such information from an operator of the particular brand of your choice.

4. AVAILABILITY OF SPARE PARTS.
Are the parts for the vehicle you want to purchase readily available in the market? What sources are these parts coming from? Are they genuine as the parts sellers claim? All these information can be obtained online, by contacting the company’s website of the brand, and inputting the cars information, such as year and model, including part numbers of the potential parts. If the particular vehicle parts are not available or have only few suppliers, that’s a signal to you that you have to be prepared to spend a whole lot more on replacement parts, or face the risks associated with substandard parts. Always go for vehicles whose parts are readily available in the open market. But ensure it is genuine. A lot of Nigerians have spent a fortune maintaining supposedly new cars, just because those vehicles were introduced newly in to the market at cheaper rates by start-up companies in Asia.

5. FINANCIAL CAPABILITY
Can you afford financially to buy a car? Would the purchase affect your savings?
If your answer is in the affirmative, you are not ready to own a car yet. Just be patient.
Owning a car is not just a luxury, but it carries with it financial responsibility also. Just like when a man marries a wife, he bears all the responsibility of catering for the wife and the children. There are no excuses for irresponsibility here.
Have you ever wondered why people buy cars, and yet can’t maintain them, but later sell them? Emmmm, keep the answer to the question to yourself o! I would not want to spark off angry reactions here, please.

5. TECHNICAL KNOW-HOW.
Are there mechanics that can handle the maintenance of that vehicle?
This, you can know by conducting research online of reputable companies, and requesting for referrals from owners of similar brands of cars.
Do not permit any mechanic/technician carry out any repairs on your potential car, if you are not comfortable with their capabilities.

6. GET A PROFESSIONAL PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS REPORT.
Before buying a fairly used car anywhere, do not just trust the dealership’s salesperson’s verbal report about the car. Ask for a third party preliminary inspections report about the state of the car. This report would contain details of the car's past, and present state, and also reveal to you if the dealer has being covering up some issues about the car.
Such kinds of information can be gotten from CARFAX, and other online car check companies, on payment of a little fee.
CARFAX would reveal if the car, through the vehicle's VIN( vehicle identification number), if the car is STOLEN, FLOODED(Mind you, there are lots of flooded cars being exported to Nigeria, and Africa in general), ACCIDENTAL, etc. Such info from CARFAX may not provide you with the present state of the car.
There are companies whose jobs solely is to carry out preliminary inspections of your dream car(s), before buying.
Many Nigerians have bought flooded and junked vehicles from auto dealers in Nigeria whose true states were concealed.

Get professional uncompromising automotive engineers to execute such tasks for you.
Do not engage a roadside mechanic to inspect a car worth millions of naira. Doing that, would be at your own risks.
NB: New vehicles do not need a pre-purchase inspections. You'll begin to encounter issues related to depreciation of the vehicle, as the year goes by.
If you choose to implement a replacement maintenance strategy, you could sell off the car, immediately you notice problems begins to set in.

WHAT CAR DEALERS WON'T TELL YOU
Car dealers, or anyone looking to sale their car, would never disclose to you, whether the vehicle has being involved in an accident; if it was stolen; if major mechanical/electrical work has being carried out, or if the car still has issues with it.
Some of them won't allow you do a test drive. They might be gracious to allow a 80km/hr drive. That isn't enough to test a car.

I am very sorry, if you're a car dealer, I'm kind of like revealing what your colleagues do.

HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT THIS?
Saving your had earn cash is the strategy here.
This few tips would save you head ACH in the future, and financial losses.
Please, what I'm about to share here is a dip secret. Don't tell them I told you all these o!
OK. Here we go:
**Tell the car dealer NOT START the engine of the car, until you're around.

REASON: Most dealers, because of the problems some of the cars they sale to the public are faulty, and not WHAT they CLAIM, they tend to start the engine before you arrive at their car stand. This is done more especially, if its a second, third, and even fourth handed vehicle. Take for instance, If a car's engine internal components, such as valve seals are WEAK. Normally, one of the symptoms displayed when the vehicle is started early in the mornings is that you'll have BLUE SMOKE exiting from the exhaust tail pipe.
Now. If the dealer knows that you're coming when the engine is cold, and hasn't being warmed, he knows, you'll complain, and probably not buy the car. So, he "loses", and you're saved financially. But if it's otherwise, he smiles to the bank, while you become a regular " patient" of the hospital(workshop) doctor(mechanic).

**Ask to see the original or photocopied copy of the car papers. In some cases, vehicles imported into the country, has a maintenance history from the original owner of the car.
If the car imported into the country has some issues with it, the importer, or some rather, would conceal such important documents, and tell you, there wasn't anything of such accompanying the vehicle to the country.
Make sure all the custom papers are valid. You won't want to be entangled into a legal quagmire someday.

REASON: You've got lots of car's with tempered papers around.
Be security conscious though.

**Get a third party pre-purchase inspections of the car before buying. Some dealers wouldn't want you to have the car inspected by a professional. They would rather mouth wash you, with words like, CLEAN RIDE; BUY AND RIDE, and so on. Don't just "innocently believe I. their salesmanship. Ask them you'll want to get your own professional mechanic to check it out for you.
You can get services like that, from reputable companies, and individuals who're car savvy.
ATTENTION: Be very cautious when you'd hired the services of a professional mechanic to inspect a car, you intend to put in perhaps millions of naira in.
This is a secret I'm revealing to you right now.
Don't tell them o! Some of the dealers would want to INFLUENCE your mechanic to give a CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH on the car, even though the mechanic knows that the car you'll buying, is an ORANGE.
Stuffs like these happens, when the dealer promises the mechanic some financial kickbacks after the purchase. You have to be on your guard and even watch.
Employ your PSYCHOLOGICAL skills, if you've got one, during the inspections. Eye contacts and body language reveals a lot.
These guys take advantage of you, the buyer, because they know you're desperate about buying a car.

**Run a diagnostic scan on the car, and do a test drive beyond the car lot. This is where its going to be really hot for both of you guys. Some if them would never allow you drive the car out of the car lot. But hey, dealer, that's a used car you're selling. If it were to be new, I won't bother carrying out the test drive.
I know the concerns about security by car dealers. But common, people would be spending, maybe, their life savings in that stuff. So, if you've got security concerns, get two or more persons to go for the test drive, or the vehicle could be driven where you've security installations/infrastructure around.
On carrying out a general diagnostic scan on the car. I have for instance, carried out a general diagnostic scan on a corolla 2008, for a client, around Gbagada area, in Lagos state. The had lots of trouble codes, when it was scanned. Codes like camshaft position sensor "A" circuit out of range; random misfires;ABS, and VSC lights displaying on the dashboard. From the results of this Scan, I knew that for that camshaft issue, suspect areas could be the sensor wiring; sensor itself; camshafts actuator problems, etc. The FFD(Freeze frame data) was checked, and we discovered this fault always occurs, when the vehicle has being driven for more than 2hrs. This issue was raise with the car dealer, but he insisted the car was a NICE RIDE, and that those codes and lights on the DASH doesn't mean anything.
Never buy a car with CHRISTMAS lights on the dash. Get to know what the codes are. That way, you could bargain for a price reduction, if you are desperate to get that car. This way, its a win win for both seller and buyer.

****The pre-purchase inspections report I present to clients contains EVERY ASPECT of the CAR"****
BODY. Has it being painted, or accidental before?
ENGINE. Reveal mechanical and electrical issues.
TRANSMISSION. Had it being worked before, or has issues currently.
TEST DRIVES. This would reveal the operations of the engine, transmission, brakes and other salient issues.
INTERIORS. AC system working efficiency, stereos, etc.
Such reports are sent to your emails, even before you purchase the car. That way, you're better armed with evidence during your negotiations with the dealer. Isn't that great? You already have the Weapon to destroy all of their lethal defenses.

CONCLUSION
Nigerians like automobiles. They can spend a fortune, just buying exotic cars. But the problem has always been, HOW DO I GET THE BEST FROM THE DEALERSHIP?
Car dealers sweet mouth lots of people into buying cars, and at the end, the maintenance cost, outweighs the purchase cost of the car.
When planning to buy a car, do your research first. It doesn't cost you anything. Maybe, just cost you your time. But remember, it's worth it.
Go with a professional, uncompromising automotive engine to inspect the car of your choice.
In these times of technological advancement, don't just go with a mechanic whose got a scan tool in his hand. But go with someone, whose got an understanding of basic principles of automotive operations.
Don't go alone.

A stitch in time, they say, saves nine.


Regards,
IGONO JOSEPH OKEME

PS: Revving a car alone during inspections s does not show the car is in a state of good HEALTH. Other parameters abound too.
That's where I come in.

@sooperrescue. Let's treat the issues you've presented on the table, one by one.

Spent 7days on the road, destroyed your catalytic converter, spark plugs soaked, and drive belt slipped.

**Oga. If you critically look at those problems you've enumerated, above, there isn't any where that oil, could have destroyed that catalytic converter. What mostly foul a catalytic converter is extremely high temperatures, and engine misfires(P0300.....something codes), amongst other reasons. If a misfire isn't treated in time, your catalytic converter gets damaged.

**Spark plugs soaks, suggests to me, is either that car must have being having engine related problems before that time, or something else. It would behoove you air, to note that if the compression rings in that can is weak, would get soaked spark plugs. If the PCV(Positive crankcase ventilation) has an issue, or there are oil leaks from the seals in the valve cover spark plug holes, oil would definitely sip into the combustion chamber.

**drive belt slippage has already confirmed some of my concerns above, that your engine must have had oil leak issues. You have your camshaft and crankshaft seals positioned around the belt area, and also the valve corner is close by. So, how can you conclude that the use of that oil rippled in to all what you've said was the aftermath of using the oil?
I do not think what you've said about the aftermath of the usage of that oil makes any engineering sense to me, and to me, tour car has already got an issue before all that.

**On cars have used that oil on, have used it on several cars. The crux for me is, not to expect to get out of a mobile XHP oil, for instance the benefits you'll her from a Mobil1 oil. Their additives aren't same.
Useless benefits? Well, that depends on you sir! Have used that stuff innumerable tomes, and have got no issue. You choose rather what you want to use, or simply buy your oil, and take it to your mechanic for an oil change. That would be cool.
Oil grades and stuffs like that has got varying opinions with people. Lits of pros and cons abound.

**Wrong thesis? Well, na you talk am o! Most of the stuffs I put on this forum are from both primary and secondary sources. My experience in the field, and also just my sitting down and thinking through things.
I think all these bla!!! about oil grades is synonymous to some people saying is it right to use fuel cleaning substances in your car, or not. Some would say its OK, whole others tell you the manufacturer hasn't recommended stuff like that.

In summary, I put it to you that tour staying on the road for 7days wasn't as a result of the aftermath of the oil usage. Tour car's a mechanical problem, before that.
Could you please google the cause of catalytic converter failure? Oil seeping from your exhaust manifold in to the exhaust system can dealth a final blow to the substrate inside the catalytic converter shell. A weak catalyst can damage your catalytic converter.

I have used that oil on a range rover 2006.
****I'm not a KAZEEM ooo! My name is:
Igono Joseph Okeme.

Check out our videos and pictures on my Facebook page. Here's a nice stuff I think you'll like.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=880772322031582&id=767933589982123

You could also get other stuffs by typing DW Nig Ltd on your Facebook search icon.


PS: You and I know that when you hear people say "briscoe" part, what it means really is GENUINE PARTS. Maybe in my write up I should have said genuine parts I guess.
Would try to make such corrections in my subsequent write-ups in due course.

@mayor. You've for the answer at the introductory part of the article, where I gave an example with the oil usage grades in North America, and Middle East.

@gazzuzz. I can't forbid synthetic oil usage na. They're are cool stuff. You've then in Mobil 1. It has an extended usage on the engine, than the regular ones you see around, like the XHP.

@gazzuzz. I can't forbid synthetic oil usage na. They're are cool stuff. You've then in Mobil 1.

@diportivo. I didn't say car owners use 20-50W in such places as the USA. Read through the article in its entity, or check the reply I sent you earlier.
Normally, oil grades has being lot of problems, on this forum. There are those for and against. Its a choice.

@honmusa. Don't know what a KAZEEM kind of mentality is o! I didn't say the manufacturer started that. If the car was intended for the Nigerian market, sure those guys would definitely state that in the maintenance manual.
I modify stuffs a lot, but not at risks of the laid down OEM standard.
For instance. If you're exporting HONMUSA Cherokee jeeps to the USA now. Won't you in your feasibility studies or design, known that, the USA isn't suppose to use the kind of oil grade, your $company" has specified for the Cherokee meant for export? Don't you think if the oil grade you've being using here is a 20-.....something(W), and your quality assurance department says, "Oga, use that one". Won't you go ahead and sack your line managers? I see all these as simple logical reasoning.

That's why this car talk thing is called a forum.
You talk, I talk. At the end, we all go still learn.

@diportivo
@honmusa
@gazzuzz
Abi no be true?
Everyone has access to the internet, to go do their own research o! I love writing, so I just de do my own nio!!!!!

@diportivo. I didn't say car owners use 20-50W in such places as the USA. Read through the article in its entity, or check the reply I sent you earlier.
Normally, oil grades has being lot of problems, on this forum. There are those for and against. Its a choice.

@dipor. Like your comments a great lot. Helps me to go do more on my researches.
Thanks though.
There's nothing sad in this. You choose what type of oil you use in your car's engine.
I just decided to culled this Info about oil stuffs to support some of the points have made.
All cars made for the North American markets are supposed to use API SL energy conserving, orILSAC multi grade engine oil with this viscosity 5W-30. That's a more lighter grade oil to help in initial starts. Can't you think out this, Diportivo? OK. do a bit of research online why cars use that grade of oil in extremely cold climates.
It doesn't make sense to me, to continue using an oil grade meant for another climate in Nigeria. Compare the two temperatures if those regions na.
The 20-50W is still what I would recommend for my clients. I don't recommend any kind of oil. Go through the details of that oil.
Major oil marketers already have such oils in the country. Forte oil(API SL), Mobil(20-50W, and even the 5-30W).
So, for me. I don't just use any oil, or product for my repairs. I look at where was that car manufactured, and what market and climate was it meant for. That way, I do my modifications, for instance the oil thing, using oil charts.
Why do you think cars made for the USA market, Nigerians import in to our country is as new. But after some months of usage, you begin to bear the cost of repairs. Shocks, linkages, are replaced. Do you think if a client comes to me with issues like to rectify, and simply because the manufacturer says use only "bruscoe" parts, I'll then go straight to purchase them? I would never do that. If I could get alternatives from a company that have taken into consideration in their design of the shocks, linkages, etc, bad roads, extreme temperatures, etc, I would advice the client to go for it. It just doesn't make sense to me replacing OEM parts over and over again, if there are alternatives made for our climate.

Na small thing be all tour concerns na, diportivo
Sorry to ask o! Are a car owner, or a mechanic?
Have you done a course called FLUID MECHANICS in the university, or any tertiary institutions? Perhaps, you'll know why I advuae my clients for the 20-50W. That's just the JUSTIFICATION.


Like your comments though.
If you're on Facebook, type DW Nig Ltd on your search icon. There are lots of video clips and pictures there for your perusal.

PS: Almost all Camry, Highlander, rav4, with a V6 configuration of '07-present are 2GR, with a U160E transmission(22pinout transmission socket). Correct me if I'm wrong.

@gazzuzz. This was what I meant:
In North America, for instance. You have a lot of snow, and sometimes, temperatures getting as low in to the -.....°C. So, in this situation, if the engine has in it a thicker grade(talking about viscosity here now) oil, you know that at that extreme temperature, the engine would have to do a lot more work(cranking the engine), for it to be able to overcome the immerse thickness of the oil before the car finally starts. The risks in here is that the oil pump does much work trying to pump a certain volume of oil to the gallaries of the crankshaft, camshaft, etc. So, the engine is prone to damage. That's why car manufacturers recommend or specify that lighter grade engine oils be used in that part of the work.

In climates like ours(tropical in nature), temperatures here sometimes is similar to that in the middle East. They go sometimes to as high as 40°C. So, that's why when you get import a Tokunbo car in to the country, I advise the car owner to switch to something a little bit thick grade. Maybe 20W-50, etc(pls this is my own personal calculus. You could decide to stick with what works for you). But simple engineering tells me that fluids expand or contract, depending on temperature difference. So, for instance. If you've got a car manufactured for the US market and climate, and was imported to Nigeria for use, definitely using a lighter grade oil, in the car would cause problems. At least I have experienced that. At such a high temperature, say, 35°C, coupled with the extremely high engine temperature of the engine, you'll realize that the oil becomes extremely very light, and begin to seep through points like the interstices of the engine(I.e, in between sump, and engine block; valve covers; in some instances you might even hear rattling noises). But if a thick oil grade us used, the engine operating temperatures, and the outside temperature would definitely make the engine run more smoother, by "reverting the oil thickness, to a lighter grade one, as though the engine was made fie the US market in Nigeria".

I hope you're OK with the this explanation.
Amy concerns you have, or questions, feel free to bring drop them here, or you coukd send me an email:

oigonojoseph stable.com

@shintip. This is what I think is causing the spanner light to display on the dashboard.
s for you. Did your mechanic set the oil life back to 100%? If he didn't, that's why the problem is.
*ask your mechanic to adjust the spanner light
*if that doesn't work, check for oil leaks at the engine oil filter location, and the oil switch. Those are the likely places you'll get oil leaks that would trigger the light.

Do that, and let's get a feedback from you.

Regards,
Joseph

INTRODUCTION
Your mechanic has checked why your car's engine oil keeps shortening or going down; he's found no significant trace of oil drops. But you, the car owner know that you spend at least N2000 topping the engine oil daily. You even have a 4L gallon in your car, just in case it requires topping.

Engine oils are the lifeline of a cars engine.
They cone in different grades and thickness(viscosity). The one to use for your car, would depend on the manufacturers specification, and/or the region where you're located. Cooler climates like North America, and some parts of Europe, require a lighter quality oil, to aid quick start. While in places like Africa and the middle East, temperatures are tropical in nature, so would require somewhat a thicker oil grade for efficient engine operation.
Without it, a car would never move.

BENEFITS OF ENGINE OILS TO AN ENGINE
*acts as a cooling agent for the dissipation of excess heat, from the engine's internal components (crankshafts, piston rings, etc).
*acts as a lubricating agent for the engine. Without adequate lubrication of internal engine components, there's bound to be increased temperature rise, as a result of an engine "knock".

WHEN TO REPLACE AN ENGINE'S ENGINE OIL
**These days, vehicle manufacturers have incorporated oil quality sensors as part of the engine management systems of their various brands. These has being done, to at least, reduce human estimations of oil change intervals.
This type of oil quality monitor sensor, triggers a " MAINTENANCE REQUIRED LIGHT", on a Toyota brand cars, and a "SPANNER SIGN" on Honda brand of cars. Indicators like these appear on the instrument panel (dashboard) of such cars, if the engine oil quality has degraded to a certain percentage, or the vehicle has being driven for more than 7500miles, or so.
NB: After oil change in this methodology, the MAINTENANCE REQUIRED LIGHT or SPANNER SIGN has to be reset.
**The second option is using estimated intervals, such as current date/mileage.
In this method, the date or mileage when the vehicle was serviced, is used as a baseline for the next service. Remember, it depends on which came first. Date, or mileage.

REPLACING A CAR'S ENGINE OIL AS AT WHEN DUE. IS IT RIGHT?
Replacing your car's engine oil as at when due, saves you tremendous amounts of money, and time.
You wouldn't want to be caught unawares with an engine failure while driving down the street, or on a journey.
Though engine damage, does not occur without a SIGN. The car must have being presenting you with subtle signs like a rattle noise, oil shortages on the engine oil dipstick, etc.

***"""""late replacing of your car's engine oil leaves within it's trail, sludge, responsible for most of the engine wears that results into engine damage.***""""""""(see figures below).
The pictures below were from a 2008 Hyundai Tucson 4cylinder engine.

HOW TO TRACE AN ENGINE OIL SHORTAGE PROBLEM
*you continuously add engine oil to the engine
*oil spills in the neighborhood. That's the ground or floor where the car was parked.
NB: If the spills occur very fast(rate of flow), when the engine is idling, that could suggest that its seeping out from the crankshaft pulley oil seal, or the sum(bottom plate).
Recall, whether you've gone over a boulder (rock), and that might have broken the oil pan.
Some shortages could also be as a result of valve cover leaks.

HOW TO FIX AN ENGINE OIL SHORTAGE PROBLEM
The fix to any engine oil shortage issue, is dependent on the nature and location of the leak. If its along the engine belt locations, for example that would require a major engine work. Replacement of the crankshaft pulley oil seal, etc. If you're mechanically inclined, and you're dexterous with tools, I guess it's something you could do to fix the problem. But I'll advice, if you aren't comfortable, you seek a competent mechanic, or a dealership to handle that aspect of the job.


Hope this piece helps someone.

Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme

****""""" In the coming days and weeks, we'll be treating what you consider before buying a car; and catalytic converters. Pls stay tuned.***"

INTRODUCTION
Almost any car you see on the roads today, has got no complete wheel nuts. You've for some one, two, or even three nuts missing, or damaged.
Wheel nuts are an essential part of what keeps a car's wheels firmly affixed to the brake discs, and provides the needed mechanism for the car's alignments.
These nuts, come in various sizes and configurations, depending on the wheel's material make-up. Some wheels are alloyed ones, providing aesthetics(what many Nigerians like); less load on the tyres(prolongs lifespan of the tyres); and transfers heat from the brake discs, and brake pads more easily. Thus way, the lifespan of those components are prolonged.

RISKS OF DRIVING WITH INCOMPLETE WHEEL NUTS
Though its a known fact that a lot of people, if you would ask them, "don't you think its dangerous driving a car without the wheel nuts complete, would either tell you, Oga; that's not your concern. We've being driving our cars like that for years, and nothing had happened". My response would be, no one has got the knowledge of when the consequences of an " incomplete wheel nut related incident " would happen. So, it's somewhat wise, in my view, to spend a thousand bucks, replacing the missing or damaged wheel nuts, than waiting until you're faced with an emergency situation. You'll spend close to ......naira, or dollars, and maybe a life being affected, or lost.
*damaged brake discs
*distortions in the alignment of the car
*wobbling wheels, which could result into speedy tyre wears, and accidents, etc.
Just last week Saturday, a tricycle's front wheel came off its hub. The tricycle tumbled, with it's occupants sustaining serious injurious.

****You may ask. WHY WOULD THE WHEELS EVEN GO OFF OF ITS HUBS, WITH JUST A FEW WHEEL NUTS MISSING OR DAMAGED*****

The simple reason for the wheels falling off, even if you've got just three, or four nuts holding the wheels together to the discs/hubs, is as follows:
**If for instance, a car's wheel was designed by the manufacturer to accommodate five(5) wheel nuts. And suddenly three or two got missing or damaged, the remaining two, or three wouldn't be able to properly hold the wheels to the brake discs. There would some clearances in between the interface of the wheels, and the brake disc. So, during motion, as the vehicle moves, the impacts from undulations, and revolutions on of the wheels, would translate in to vertical forces that would result in to the wobbling effects you often notice, if a car's wheel nuts are not complete, or properly tightened**.

The story below, might shed more light into the risks involved in this dare endeavor.
Here we go:

A client of mine, was driving from Ibadan to Lagos, in her most cherished Xterra Nissan jeep, and suddenly had a flat tyre along the way. She engaged the services of a vulcanizer by the roadside, who in the process of loosening the wheel nuts of the flattened tyre, mistakenly damaged the wheel nut. She asked the vulcanizer, "wetin happen Oga, to my wheel nuts na?" The vulcanizer replied and said, "the wheel nuts too strong, nahim I use power loose am. But eno go do anything share"!.
Ewo ooo! Egbamio! I don die oooo! These were some of the exclamations from her, when she heard what he said, and the risks he had put her in.
She had wasted her time, and put even her precious life at risk. What if armed robbers or kidnappers came around? What would she do?
It's better to spend a hundred bucks and be wise, than risk being a fool in the future.
Can you imagine how the vulcanizer was just able to convince her that it doesn't matter if the wheel nuts are not complete.
The story above, paints a picture most of us like to bear knowingly, or unknowingly.

WHAT SHOULD I CONSIDER WHEN REPLACING THE WHEEL NUTS
Common guys, we all know that we like(love) nice things. If you claim you don't like(love) good things, just give me a call right now. Would come get them(0800000001). Please o! don't tell EFCC I requested for kick backs from you o!. Well, that was by the way though. But if you're considering modifying or upgrading your current car's wheel's to an alloyed wheel, you've got to change the wheel nuts to the ones that would firmly fit in to the recesses of the new wheels. Using a different one, would cause BRAKE PULSATION PROBLEMS, AND STEERING VIBRATIONS.

HOW DO YOU ALIGN WHEEL NUTS THE RIGHT WAY

The alignment of wheel nuts on cars, are dependent on the number of wheel but studs on the wheel hub(s).
We would be using a FIVE-WHEELED STUD NUT as an example.
The wheel on display was from a Nissan Pathfinder jeep, 2006.
Alignment of the nuts should be done in a DIAGONAL(CROSS) ARRANGEMENT(see figures below). This would evenly spread the torques on each wheel.

CASE STUDY

The jeep was successfully brought to our work.
This was what we did:

*inspected the tyre(s) concerned, for any trace of play in between the wheel and the brake disc.
Mind you, we've already discovered that almost all the four wheels on the car, had all their wheel nuts stollen, or damaged.
*got replacement nuts for the wheels, and tightened them to the required torque.
In cases where the nuts appears to be hard while torquing( tightening to right specification) them to the brake hub, as a precaution, apply UB40 or other anti rust sprays to get any trace of corrosion away from the studs.

The figures below shoes how the wheel nuts were torqued and arranged diagonally.
The wheel nuts were not all replaced as at the time of preparing this article, but the arrangement was done as an illustration.
**it is advisable to ensure all wheel nuts are complete on your automobile wheel(s).

CONCLUSION

Its cool to upgrade or modify the existing wheels of your car, to the one of your choice. But in doing that, amongst other factors you might be considering, do not forget to REPLACE the WHEEL NUTS to the one that would perfectly match the recesses of the new wheels.
Not taking simple action such as replacing a single wheel nut, could engender your life, and even make you spend a whole lot in the aftermath of an accident.



Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme

@ngcobop. Yeah, it fails when it comes to Benz, and BMW. I've got a o tell you the truth here. I can't say cos "I want money", then go put hand where my competencies is in question.
For the quest you talked about, could you please explain what the problem is with the car? You could e-mail me, if you want.

oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

08066643532

Later na, Oga.

@ngcobop. Hehehe! Oga. I'm in to general car repairs. I fix cars, including Toyota hybrids. But emmmmmm, you know na, I don't work on Benz. You might say, "jack of all trade". But what aids me in most of the jobs I do, is have got computer softwares, scanners, and even technical information that makes my jobs, much easier. I always like researching.
Hope I have answered you?
Thanks for the ?s.

Hehehe! That's a memo o!

In our precious talk about overheating, I did point out that overheating isn't only caused by a failed radiator fan; clogged radiator system; weak impeller water pump, or even a stuck closed thermostat.
Today, would share an experience I for, while working on an Xterra Nissan V6, 2007 Jeep.
We've checked all of the above, and even replaced a new radiator system, but the engine was just overheating.

WHAT I DID
1. Drained all the water from the cooling system, via the radiator drain bolt, and the bolt behind the engine block. This would ensure that there wasn't any water in the engine, and cooling system.
2. Introduced Nos2 ABRO radiator coolants in to the system via the radiator. Its important you know the capacity of your radiator system, before purchasing such coolants.
Coolants are helpful in protecting rusts, and absorbing most if the excessive temperatures ordinary couldn't. This is because the thermal capacity of ordinary eater is limited in some extreme temperatures.

****the surprise. I had just decided to inspect the overflow tank, and check out the level of coolant in there. We decided to remove the overflow tank, and guess what we saw! Rust!!!. Finally figured out where the rusty solution that contaminates the radiator system comes from.
The reservoir was washed with water and soap, and a new radiator coolant introduced***.

3. Bled the cooling system of air, by jerking the front ends up, and allowing the engine to run for awhile.
The presence if air bubbles in such a system, would reduce the cooling effect if the engine, and would also cause an overheating engine.
It's very important air bubbles are removed from the system.
4. Another thing noticed was that the radiator cap had some deformities on the internal tubing. See the figures below. When those internal tubing is bad, its allows the escape of vapor, during extreme temperatures. That's why when you take a look at the edges of your radiator cover sometimes, you see the signs of corrosion on it. That depicts that the radiator cover can't hold the necessary pressure required during temperature rises. Its advisable to replace such covers, to minimise the risks of engine failure.

PS: That coolant was purchase for N1800/1L. Price variations at different locations though.

Regards,
TRYGO

INTRODUCTION
Batteries are an essential part of any automotive system. Without batteries, your car's operations would be terribly hampered. This would range from the engine management system not functioning properly.
Batteries come in the capacities and specifications.
Some are rated 12volts, and so.....amp/hr; while others are 24volts.
The choice of battery depends on the application in ?; and whether your choice would be a dry celled one.
Dry celled batteries, are low in maintenance, and sometimes to determine the state of charge(SOC), does not require the use of hygrometers to determine their specific gravity/density. It has indicators on the top of the battery, indicating the state of the health.
For instance, GREEN means the battery's is a stable state of health; RED means the battery's weak, and needs to be recharged; WHITE means the battery is totally dead, and no matter how its recharged, it would never hold a charge.

BATTERY DYNAMICS
I would not be going into the technicalities of battery chemistry, but would rather employ a layman's explanation.
Further details on battery dynamics can be checked on google, and other search engines.
Batteries comprises of electrolytes (what some people call battery water, or acid water); cells, cathodes and anodes, responsible for the transfer of electrons from the anode to the cathode(electrolysis). Pls if I'm wrong, would want to be corrected here.

PROBLEMS OF BATTERIES(CAR)
*Weak cells. With time, the cells of batteries go weak. So, if you've got a battery, that's stayed for years, the cells of the batteries are bound not to hold a charge. Although, this depends o. the brand, and capacity of the battery.
*accumulation of carbon deposits on the battery terminal post. When batteries work, they discharge vapors through the positive battery terminals, in order to escape excessive build up of electrolyte temperatures, etc.
This causes low available voltage at components and sensors that require them, and also faulty battery terminals.
This applies to both dry and wet cell batteries.

BATTERY MAINTENANCE
*Battery terminals with carbon deposits, should be washed with water, to dissolve the deposits. In some instances where the terminals are excessively corroded the terminates, and iron smooth brush could be used to remove such deposits.
*Do not use wrong tools, like pliers, to try and tighten a battery terminal post, or a hammer to smash through them. This would cause the battery posts to distort from it's position, and with time, acid vapours begins to corrode the post(s).
Use appropriate tools. For instance, use a 10mm Allen socket, or otherwise, to loosen or tighten the terminals.
So, the next time you take your car for battery maintenance issues, or fault, endure the battery man does not use inappropriate tools for the job. Right tools for the right hob, saves tremendous time, and money.
*check the batteries state of charge, either monthly, or as required by the manufacturer.
This is done, if your car has a wet celled battery, the specific density is always checked, and compared to a set standard(specification). Say, 0.99, or 1.00. If it distorts from the standard, you're in the process if getting another battery, or recharging it to a full state of charge.
For dry celled batteries, the indicators can be monitored to inform you in their state if charge(SOC).

CHOOSING A BATTERY. DRY OR WET CELLED.
The choice of a battery in my view, depends on the what you WANT.
From experience, I have come to realise that wet celled batteries, do retain tremendous amount of charge, than even the so-called dry celled ones.
Remember, the cars our fathers drove, in the 70s, and 80s. They've all got wet celled u. them. And those batteries have being found to last much linger than the dry celled ones. Though the maintenance cost of such batteries, were a little bit more than the dry celled, but it gave those (babas), value for money. If I may ask. Why do you guys think even in thus time and age, manufacturer in the USA, and eben Europe, prepare wet celled batteries in the various cars they export to our country.

CONCLUSION
Batteries are an essential part of an automobile system. Without it, you're grounded. Choosing the right battery for your application, should depend on the manufacturers specifications, and capacity.
Modifying a battery for your application, also depends on the components amperage requires, and wire gauges.
You too, can maintain your car's battery, saving you some BUCKS.

PS: Figure 1: Corroded wet celled battery post
Figure 2: Maintained battery post; washed with water, and grease applies to stop corrosion

INTRODUCTION
Lagos, being the centre of excellence, as other major state capitals in Nigeria, and some developing countries, has the highest concentration of vehicles, and generators in the country(Nigeria).
Being a centre of excellence, also comes with a price. A high one in my view. Increased crime rates, increased health risks as a result of exhaust emissions, etc. But, in my view, it appears states, or countries with issues of environmental degradation from exhaust emissions, place more emphasis on the economic gains from these dangerous sources of "diseases", than on the wellbeing of their population and even the environment.
The trends seems to be changing, with some states, in Nigeria, especially Ogun state, conducting emissions testing scheme in the state. Other states are looking to follow suit. Nigeria, through the ministry of environment, designed and developed a standard for curbing emissions (NESREA Vehicular Emissions Standard 2011).

In 1996, California took the lead in introducing legislation, to force car manufacturers both at home, and abroad, to confirm to a single emissions testing program. In that vein, OBDI and OBDII Protocols were introduced to monitor emissions levels on board vehicles, and other applications. These protocols allows a car's data, such as RPMs, engine temperature, to be recorded on the car's computer system(ECU-engine control unit), and to allow easy access with it using a diagnostic tool.

WHAT EMISSION IS
Emissions are a by-product of the combustion, or the burning of fossil(petrol, or diesel)fuels from internal combustion engine applications, such as mobile (vehicles, ships, and even aircrafts), and stationary (generators, etc).
They contain dangerous greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide(CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), Sulphur dioxide (SO2), etc, that are know to cause health and environmental problems.
Carbon dioxide, which is the most and common polluting agent would be considered in this article.

MUST THERE BE EMISSION OUTPUT FOR YOUR APPLICATION
No internal combustion engine application, whether its a generator, or a vehicle, can efficiently operate, without the exit of emissions from its tail pipe. If there isn't any emission (smoke) from the tailpipe, it suggests the application in question may already be a "failsafe mode".
I'm not suggesting the emission level in your car/generator, must be a distortion from the set standard in your state, or country.
Different applications emit different levels of smoke(emissions). Diesel applications, for instance, puff out a tremendous mixture of smoke, and particulate matter, some even smaller than the human hair (in microns), on START-UP, and when there's being a deviation from any of it's engine management systems. As those applications age with time, they emit terrible smoke levels. Petrol applications on the other hand, on start up only emit whitish smoke, and within a short while, disappears. A vehicle with lits of smoke levels, whether it's black, blue, or even white in colour, suggests high-level of pollution.
(See Fig1: Diesel truck along Lagos-Abeokuta Expressway)
EMISSIONS COLOUR TYPES
*Black. Suggests the application consumes excess fuel, and needs urgent attention.
*Blue. Suggests excessive engine wear; oil leaks into the intake manifold through the PCV(positive crank case ventilation); oil spills finding it's way
in to the exhaust system.
*White. Suggests coolants leaking into the cooling system; cylinder head problems, etc.

NB: Diesel engines are not supposed to emit visible smoke, when new.
Any diesel applications emitting black smoke, should tell you the engine management systems of the application gas being compromised.

DO EMISSIONS HAVE NEGATIVE IMPACTS
Emissions, though visible and non visible have innumerable negative impacts, on both man, and the environment.
1. HEALTH WISE. The WHO, in 2011, classified diesel exhaust, as a CARCINOGEN This means it's being found to be amongst some of the causes of CANCER worldwide.
Mind how you expose yourselves to diesel exhaust applications.
*Increased risk of respiratory tract infections. People who are asthmatic, are at a greater risks of exacerbating the condition. Continues coughing can be acquired from exposure to emissions.
*low sperm count for men, and frequent miscarriages by women. So, the next time your partner isn't PERFORMING to your expectations vis-à-vis copulation, don't just blame HIM or HER. Inhaled emissions may have being the cause.
*Children exposed to emissions have low assimilation rate. It also causes dizziness.

2. ENVIRONMENT.
The global economy, over the centuries, has being fuelled by fossil fuel applications such as tractors, cars, generators, etc. This has made other countries to be classified as advanced/industrialized, while others, are still reeling in poverty.
The environmental impacts if these advancements, has had innumerable toll in the environment.
For instance, it has led to increased greenhouse gases, which has further increased climate change. It gas caused flooding, food shortages, poverty, and even death in some continents.
Nigeria also, has not being an exception.
3. Others. The more a diesel or petrol application burns fuel, the more it tells on THE POCKET. OK. Why do you think car owners with higher capacity engines(V6- sale such cars. Asides other reasons, fuel economy us the MAJOR reason.
High levels of emissions can cause an accident. For instance, if we were following closely the truck above(Fig 1), we would have had an accident. But thank God, we gave a clear distance, to improve VISIBILITY.

HOW TO CURB YOUR "CIGAR"(EMISSIONS)
*Emissions tests. Some states carry out emissions testing on internal combustion engine applications in Nigeria now.
To get maximal result and cooperation, thus scheme is first made INVOLUNTARY, and later on VOLUNTARY.
You could sign up for a monthly emissions testing scheme, where your car/generators are tested for emission levels. You're issued a certificate if you pass the test, and given a notice of repair and fine, if the application concerned did not pass the test.
Emission rest equipment such as fas analyzers are used in this case.
*Maintenance is the key. If you could put an eye on the type of emissions you could visibly see, that would help a great deal in nipping in the bud, emissions related problems for your car/generators.
If you own a diesel truck/generator, replace the diesel filters as at when due.
Any distortions noticed in the engine management systems should be rectified immediately.
*This would be the big one. Don't board a smoking public transport system. For example, a " danfo" bus visibly smoking. Boarding buses like that, shows you're part of the problem. You're paying those buses to keep polluting the environment, and KILLING PEOPLE. I know a lots if people would disagree with me on this.

CONCLUSION
Owning a car/generator, etc, isn't for fun. Those stuff you've got, without proper maintenance and checks from you, means you're responsible for environmental air degradation, and the deaths of millions of people from emissions related illnesses.
Our priorities should be more of a sustainable future, vis-à-vis health and environment wise, than the present quest for economic gains.

Well, guys, I just hope you learnt something today.
PLS, drop your comments in the comment bar.
Criticisms, and maybe....... Would learn from that!

Regards,
TRYGO

@earthrealm. You're right. ABRO coolants are less than 5k per gallon. If you're going for your car's branded coolant, be prepared to spend more.
Thanks for your contributions sir.

@earthrealm. You're totally correct. After the radiator and engine block flushing, we discovered that at some days, when the radiator cover was opened, you'll always get that clayish stuff coming out. The water pump is in good condition, displaced perfectly. No overheating currently. Mind you, the car has a mileage of 250, 853km on it, and has being parked for years. So, probably, like I mentioned in the post about causes of those sludge, it could be that the radiator coolant had expired, or if water was used as its coolant, must have had that same effect.

Appreciate your response.

@GAZZUZZ. You're right o! That's a better alternative. Some would tell you, Buhari economy de na.

INTRODUCTION
Before the advent of water cooled systems employed on cars, as is presently the case, in the olden days, cars such as Volkswagen beetle used the air cooling method to transfer excess heat directly from the engine's cylinder heads, and engine blocks, to the environment.
The flaws observed in the VW incessant fire outbreaks, led to other manufacturers, looking for other methods of effectively cooling the engine.
This led to the use of water cooled system of transferring heat from the engine, via a radiator system, and directly to the environment.
In thus system, the risks of car fires has being reduced, and vehicles could go long distances without the fear of sudden car fires.

SYSTEM OF OPERATION
A sides the radiator cooling system, we've the following as part if an engines cooling system:
*thermostat
*radiator cooling fan
*water pump(electric water pump, in the case of hybrid cars)

As the engine gets to it's operating temperature, tremendous heat is generated by the engine, in terms of overcoming frictional forces generated in the engine. It's the overcoming of these forces that translates in to the motion that moves your car's wheels.
To make the engine last longer, a medium is required to dissipate the excessive heat from the car's engine, via the cooling systems, and straight to the environment.
The radiator's upper hose transfers the heat from the cylinder head, and block engine.
Its then cooled by the radiator cooling fan, where its recycled back to the engine, as cooled coolant.

WHY DOES THE COOLANT GETS RUSTY(REDDISH)
*when water reacts with a metallic materia on exposure to oxygen(air), the end product is corrosion. So, if you're using ordinary water as a coolant in your car's cooling system, you're gradually deteriorating the radiators capacity to dissipate heat.
With time, the rust develops into a huge sludge that can block the radiator's cooling fins, and gradually cause engine temperature rise.
Ordinary water contains impurities, that aid corrosion, and influences temperature rise.
*expired radiator coolants, leaves within its trail, sludge.

WHAT COULD A RUSTY RADIATOR SYSTEM CAUSE
*increased temperature rise, that might gradually result into engine damage.
The cylinder head may be warped, if its threshold temperature rating is exceeded.
*an overheated engine, can cause catalytic converter damage.
The reason being as the engine overheats, piston rings and so on, in the combustion chamber looses their sealing abilities in the chamber, causing mechanically relates misfires.
Engine misfires are the major enemies of catalytic converters.

HOW TO KEEP THE RADIATOR SYSTEM EFFICIENT(MAINTENANCE).
*Avoid using ordinary water as coolants for the cooling system. If you're using water, it should be distilled water.
*Use approved radiator coolants for your cars cooling system. Almost all car brands have got their specific radiator coolants.
Toyota has got the SLL(Super long life). Check with your manufacturer to see which is specified for your car.
*Flush, Repair, or replace the radiator system, if it shows signs of extreme rust build up (sludge).
The build up of sludge, gradually reduces a radiator's cooling dissipating capabilities.
*Remove debris that might have being trapped on the radiator's fins.
PS: Radiator coolants are not meant to be used till eternity. They're to be replaced, at least 2-3years. They contain additives that help absorb the heat generated from the engine under temperatures running into thousands of degree Celsius.

Fig1: Radiator system disassembled

Fig2: Sludge build up in the radiator's plastic cover

Fig3: Radiator system manually washed. A tedious process though.

This writeup, is a combination of my personal experience as an automotive engineer, and of researches i have done.

CASE STUDY
We've worked on a car recently with an overheating issue brought in by a client.

WHAT WE DID
*Checked all the radiator system hoses, and water pump for sign of leaks. There weren't any.
*checked the level of coolant in the radiator, discovered it was reddish, as shown on the figures below.
*carried out a steam wash of the radiator and engine block, using pressurized steam wash machine.
*Drained the old ordinary water in the cooling system, and introduced a new one, in order to finalize the engine cooling system flush.
Checked the operation of the radiator cooling fan. It was working efficiently.

CUSTOMER FEEDBACK
"You guys didn't do anything on this car o!. It's still the same thing"

OUR RESPONSE
*Took the car in again, and simulated the customers complaint.
Carried out further troubleshooting, and decided to remove the radiator system from the hood.
*Took to radiator specialist, who dismantled the radiator plastic top cover, and discovered the sludge buildup on the cover.
That was where the real problem was coming fro.. We discovered that as long as we keep on flushing the radiator system, we keep getting rusty solutions from the radiator's overflow tank, and the radiator system itself.
*Carried out the manual flushing of the radiator, mounted it back in its place, and tested the vehicle.
The car's temperature went down, but the reddish rusty solution keeps coming over the radiator cover, immediately it's opened.
The customer decides that since the temperature issue has being solved, he would look at buying a new radiator system, after the recession is down.

Your positive or negative criticism is welcome.

Regards,
TRYGO

OK, z. I'm not only talking to mechanics. This thread is for all and sundry. Mechanic, a novice, any kind of person.

@Z. Check the following daily, asides your fluids:

*engine oil. Don't assume its OK, even though you seem not to have oil leaks.
*tyre pressures.
*radiator coolants, and so much more.
You want more details on daily checklist, Google it out. You'll get innumerable items to look out for. My specifics in the post is on daily oil checks. Like I said, you can extend it to other areas. I think it would be cool, to check the transmission, brake and power steering fluids, simultaneously, since you're already at the hood area. That makes sense to me.

I might not have specified DAILY CHECKS in the headline. But when you read through the entire post, you should be able to decipher what I'm saying.
Thanks for your s though. That was cool.

@zimdrill. You do some checks daily, whether you've got leaks or not.
Definitely there's what's called a daily, weekly, monthly, and even a yearly checklist. You're doing all that, to help you cut cost.
Hope you know that. You just choose which you want. A daily, or a monthly plan, depends on ya, and your car too.

Thanks a 1000$.

You wake up early in the morning, as early as 3-4am, get prepared for work, or preparing the kids for school drop offs, and when you're done, you head straight to the car, without spending at least a minute checking your car's fluids(engine oil, transmission oil, power steering oil, and brake oil). This is a typical experience of almost all busy residents in Lagos. Some would say, well, we have a driver, whose duty it us, to ensure all proper daily checks have done. Sometimes though, the drivers themselves either forget, or just don't do it.

Just like the human body requires tremendous amount of fluids for its survival, so does your car. Without fluids in your car, it would be almost impossible for hydraulic systems that require fluids for their operations to effective perform. Just imagine, if your cool range rover sport, or Lexus GX470 has got no fluids such as engine oil, or a transmission fluid. It would be absolutely impossible to drive that car. If you've got a lot of thousands of naira or dollars in the bank, you could just drive it as a race horse(hmmm, don't try that o!).

WHAT FLUIDS DO
Fluids, whether water or oils, helps your cool car in the following ways:
*acts as a lubricating agent, for example, the car's internal engine components such as the crankshafts, pistons, etc, in reducing the frictional forces acting on the metal parts.
*acts as a heat dispersing agent, thereby cooling the excessive temperatures generated when components such as radiator systems; transmission system, etc perform their functions.
*combining with the benefits above, it helps prolong the life span of fluid related components.

WHY CHECKING THE FLUIDS OF YOUR CAR
*The major reason you check your car's fluid levels daily, is to avoid expensive financial expenses that might surface, as a result of not adhering to simple preventive maintenance daily checklist.
You won't want to use your kid's school fees, or a building projects resources fixing a car, that at end, continues to DEPRECIATE, in terns of value.
*The other reason would be, you won't want to be stranded when you're going for one of the OWANBE parties, and suddenly, you realized that the engine oil level of your car was responsible for your car's sudden engine failure(KNOCK).

CHECKING THE FLUIDS LEVEL CORRECTLY
As a busy Lagos resident, you can check the level of your car's fluids kevels by having a PLAN in place.

This is the PLAN:

****You close from work by 5-6pm, approximately, and you stress-relax(I coined this compound word o!) in that horrible traffic for hours, say, 4hrs. You get home so exhausted and tired.

*allow that engine to cool down, say, for 30minutes, or so.
*take your bath, "to chop food, if madam, or house girl don cook"(sorry for my mix up here).
return and take few minutes to check the fluid levels of the car.

Fig 1: Correct level of engine oil fluid checks
The dipstick should always be pointing downwards, making an angle of 45° with your body.
Fig 2: Wrong level of engine oil fluid check.

PS: Always ensure that you replicate this position on all fluids checked. Although some systems do not have a dipstick for fluid level checks. Use the available on provided by your cars manufacturer.
Replace fluids as at when due. Allowing fluids to stay longer than necessary, enhances the tear and wear of hydraulic related systems.

"I'm just trying to help".
Hope this helps the busy Lagos resident.

Regards

@readonee. No be my car na. I just help fixed that car. That's all.

@readonee. You're right. But it's more rigid and durable than a pilot.

@alvin007. Wao! Like that reddish stuff. That buttresses that point perfectly(clogged catalytic converter). You're a good disciple ( well, I'm just kidding).

Thanks.

@alvin007. Wao! Like that reddish stuff. That buttresses that point perfectly. You're a good disciple ( well, I'm just kidding).

Thanks.

@diportivo. Don't still get you're saying. Is it some of the jargons have used you just don't get, or what? I think more 90% of people on this platform understood the write up. And that was why I took the time, to make the write up in such a way that even the layman could understand it.
Could you pls point out what you think is out if tune with "naija" you referenced?

Thanks.