₦airaland Forum

@symbianDon. Thanks a thousand. How you doing?!

INTRODUCTION
This article points out some of the techniques employed by car thieves, and how you could safeguard yours.
How would you feel, when you wake up one morning, or you're at a retail shop, and suddenly realise your range rover sport, or your BMW X5, is no more? it's being stolen?

That is what almost all car owners, wouldn't want to experience. But it's a reality, waiting to happen, if urgent steps aren't taken by owners and security agencies.

Even the most sophisticated of cars, with custom installed security systems have being hacked and stolen.
Relying on your car's factory fitted keyless ignition system, these days, as a theft deterrent, isn't a surety. Such cars can still be stolen, with just some simple techniques.

WAYS THIEVES CAN STEAL YOUR CAR
The following methods are some of the ways thieves steal peoples cars.

1. SIGNAL AMPLIFICATION
In this method, the thieve positions his/herself close to the owner of the car, or where the key is located, not too far away from the vicinity of the car's signal range. The car owner won't even suspect that the person standing close to him, has something amplifying the signal from his key fob. They use simple transmission gadgets to do that.
Normally, keyless entry systems and the start buttons, work on the same principle.
This is how it works. The car sends out some kind of short distance radio frequencies, and the key fob(that's your remote key for the car), receives that frequency, and transmits it back to the car, fooling the car's computer system to think that the owner has locked the doors.

OBJECTIVES: Open up the doors and steal the car by starting the engine using the same technique.

SOLUTION:
*Make sure when locking the doors, ensure that the CLUCK sound is heard, signifying the doors are properly locked.
*Check your key fob to ensure the lights worked also.
*Keys should not be kept in close proximity to the car. This would help drain the car's key fob faster.
*Buy a key fob preserver. That prevents any transmission signals sent from a car thieve to your key fob.

2. KEY PROGRAMMING
There are cheap key programming tools out there for a small fee.
Programming of a car's keyless ignition system(start button), doesn't require hours. Just some 12s, a new key fob has being programmed, encoding your car's security codes in it. This, vehicle thieves do by connecting the tool through the car's OBD11 port, and accessing the car's software. The programming can easily start and unlock the doors.

Key programming won't be of help, unless the car's doors were accessed. That can only be achieved, either by breaking the glasses, or using a radio wireless signal transmitter.

Objective: Stealing the car
Solution: Fit a diagnostic port lock on the obd11, and use additional security such as a steering-wheel lock.

3. SIGNAL JAMMING
This is the most commonly used way thieves gain access to your car.
A device that transmits on the same radio frequency as the remote key fobs is used to jam the signal that locks the car.
Normally, gadget might be in the pocket of a car thieve in a car park, or left in shrubbery near a driveway that's being targeted.
In this technique, when you press the lock button on the key fob, the command is prevented from reaching the vehicle and it remains unlocked. Thieves are left with an open door.
Jamming signals are also found applicable in military spheres of warfare.

OBJECTIVE: To gain access to vehicles, usually to steal valuables inside.
SOLUTION: Make sure the indicators flash when you press the lock button and listen for the clunk of locks.

4. RANGE TESTING.
Some keyless fobs may still be in range of the car when if left inside a house close to the vehicle.
Car thieves can discreetly check the doors by trying the door handles, which may unlock the doors, but are unlikely to be able to drive the car away, even if they eventually get inside.
Keyless systems would always require a key fob to be inside the car before the engine will start.

Even if car owners do not fall victim to these thieves, they may end up with a flat battery because the closeness of the key keeps electronic systems on standby. That's why lot of folks wonder how a car's keyless fob battery easily discharges.

OBJECTIVE: To Gain access to a vehicle.
SOLUTION:  
*Get a safe place for your car keys at home
* Ensure that the keys are out of range of the car.

5. CODE GRABBING
In this technique, car thieves armed with advanced gadgets lie in wait for cars of their choice, as though they own them. When the owner locks the doors, the signal is captured directly by the device. It then calculates the unlocked key code, through this process.

OBJECTIVE: To gain access to a vehicle.
SOLUTION:
* Lock the car with a key if possible.


6. APP HACKING.
Computer systems these days, are no longer safe as one might expect. They could hacked from anywhere in the world. These is similar to what scammers do. They fraudulently access your personal data, and even passwords to scam you.

Companies like Google, and Apple, have in collaboration with some auto makers, recently started incorporating infotainment/security gadgets on their cars.
Apps like these, allow drivers to communicate through their smart phones(unlock their car). Thieves can do the same thing on their own phones, if they can log in to the app as the vehicle’s owner. What they only need to achieve that, is the password, which they may steal or guess.
This method is rarely used but could become popular as car makers attempt to connect their vehicles with owners’ smartphones.

OBJECTIVE: To gain access to a vehicle.
SOLUTION:
* Ensure you create an alphanumeric secured password.

 

CONCLUSION
In some of these techniques, cars are stolen or gained access into, without any signs of go breaking into the car's doors/windows.
Being vigilant and spending a little bit more securing your car with much more advanced security systems, and a car tracking device would go along way in helping the police track your car in case its being stolen

 
Regards,

@emassive. For the Chrysler fan's runtime as explained by you, that's how your cooling fans are supposed to operate. Sometimes, you might get confused, thinking, "omo! what's wrong with the fan, that it isn't coming on as usual? You might get tempted trying to modify it to the direct connection.
This is my stake:
*prepare having a double celled radiator, just in case.
*since its an American made car, I font know the mileage on it though. Most of those cars ate rusty in the engine bay, and underneath the body. So, ensure the thermostat, temperature gauge sensor isn't clogged with corrosion. You can do a cooking system flush, just a preventive maintenance regime.

I have fixed some few if those American machines, too. Especially Chevrolet ventures, etc.
Is yours a 3400L V6 engine?

How's the weekend na?

@emassive. The ones you guys bought were the fans connected directly to the ignition, as your current Camry?

@emassive. What I still want to know is, was the fan operating that wat when it came from the USA, or you were the one that modified it like that?

@emassive. What I still want to know is, was the fan operating that wat when it came from the USA, or you were the one that modified it like that.

@riddler. I see you! Hehehe! That gridlock there is terrible. I forgot to include that.
Thanks for the fan info oooooo!

****If you want to test your car's engine ability to withstand overheating, drive it in heavy gridlock, like the ones you have at locations such as Ikeja along, Iyano Ipaja, 3mainland bride. If your car successfully passes the test, your cooling system is perfect. But if it does not, its time you take it in for a check.
As a precaution, have some containers of water in the boot, just in case the car breaks down. I use this as a form of stress test to determine its capacity.

You can also determine your car's battery capacity during such a test. Put on all the lights, max the Ac system, turn on the audio system.
If your car has got a Battery gauge meter on the dashboard as some GM and Ford vehicles do, take a before and after voltage readings. Before, that's when the Ac system and lights weren't engaged.
The volts when the engine is fully loaded should be 13-14. But if it doesn't go beyond that this, while charging, and it drops to the nominal voltage of 11-12, the battery definitely has lots it's capacity.******





@emassive. Were the fans factory installed that way, or you modified them that way, and would want to know what has being done, ever since you found out the fan was.like that.
What are direct fan connection would do, you can find some of the results on the overheating article.


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PS: Another important cause of overheating I have noticed, after replacing cylinder gaskets, water pump, etc is the presence of hairline cracks.
Hairline cracks are cracks you may not be able to see with the naked eyes. They are internal in nature. That is, it develops within the internal structure of the aluminum composition of the cylinder head. In some instances, these cracks are spread outward on the cylinder head.
This cracks, cause your engine, to loss compression pressure, enough to cause engine misfires, and extreme Overheating.

So, as a precaution to this, whenever your car's cylinder head is opened, or you're getting a replacement one, do your best to check out for such cracks. It would pay off in the long run.

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@riddler32.
Contacts:

08066643532(call, or WhatsApp)
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
Could you give a summary of what the likely non engine related inspections might be?
Expecting your communications on any of the above contacts above.

@beambor. Wao! Being a female with such knowledge in the automotive field, like yours, is terrific. Kudos to ya.

@nuwell. Would be glad we be acquaintances. Yeah, got a shop.
Reversion to OEM STANDARD, can be done..
You'll have to provide the car type, model, engine type. That way, it would be easier to check it up on the car's wiring diagrams.
You could send on email, or WhatsApp. I would definitely reply you.

@nony43. God de. No worry. Remember the famine in Samaria those days? HE took care of the Israelites there. He's going to the same to us!

@uboma. Hehehe! I wanted to call you Obama, but emmmm, Trump might be angry.
Thanks for the commendations though. Just trying to dish out info.

@nony43. Hmmm. You de funny o, Nony43, and perfectly right.
Only Jah can save!

Hope you're cool brother?

@shortgun! They do o! Some, because we assume car's shouldn't be taken care off, like our pets, and others, just end of life for the cooling system.

@ERONX. Men, I like your name! Yes, it can cause fires.

This is how. Your car's engine compartment, comprises of the fuel supply lines(fuel related components); ignition related system, responsible for providing sparks, and you've also got air(coming from the outside to the engine, or from the radiator engine fans).
No car would ever start, or even move, if it's got no FUEL, SPARKS, AND AIR FOR PROPER COMBUSTION PROCESS. AND THESE CAR'S ENGINE COMPONENTS ARE DESIGNED BY THE MANUFACTURER, TO TOLERANT CERTAIN OPERATING TEMPERATURES. IF THERE'S AN ABOVE THRESHOLD OF ANY OF THESE TEMPERATURE SPECIFICATIONS, as a result of EXTREME form of overheating, that car WOULD catch fire.
Furthermore, remember that the wire harnesses are another source of combustible for fires. They've got tolerance limits like us. If you push too far, I go wound you. hehehe!

Check out the post these posts I have written:

@naija9. See you! You funny sha. So if the overheating no happen, you go just de start and go jeje?
Well, thanks you've learnt already.

@lonelydora. If when you put off the AC system the car's temperature normalises, that points to that the problem is an AC system fault. You've got to isolate which and what to troubleshoot. Normally, from what I have experienced, when you engaged the Ac system, you're adding more load on the engine, thereby rising up the temperature.
Take a look at the Ac condenser, and check for some kind of blockage. The Ac condenser, acts like your engine cooling radiator. It does the same function, as your engine radiator(removes heat from the compressor, and dissipates it to the environment).
Your car has got two cooling fans. Check the Ac cooling fan specifically.
Carry out the test drive, and see what happens with the temperature to confirm I'd the overheating has stopped.
You don't need to fear na.

@SMARTEST MUGU! I very much appreciate your concerns about the title.
I would do the corrections now, immediately.
Thanks sir. Have this $10000, for the weekend.

@moscobabs. I think honmusa has answered you I guess. But just to add. It depends on the model type you're driving. In some cases, it could be cooling systems design flaws during abs after production. Be informed that companies don't wholly manufacture their components. They outsource some, and do some. That's why companies issue out recall.


Hope this answers your questions, sir?


PS: This is by the way, and had just thought would be of help.
Dispel the myth from some mechanics and people, who would tell you, your car isn't meant to have the mechanical cooling thermostat installed because the whether over in Nigeria, is a tropical one.
Modern cars employ ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensors, in a bid to regulate the operations of the sensor, and to increase fuel economy. The sensor(s) work in liaison with the thermostat, the radiator cooling fans, and the car's ECU (engine control unit) to control the engine temperature by regulating the runtime of the fans, some relays and/or fuses.

WHY YOUR CAR'S THERMOSTAT SHOULD NEVER BE REMOVED
This simple analogy of the operations of a pressing iron, would buttress the points much more.
This is it. As the your pressing iron is plugged to your home's AC(alternating current) outlet, the element in the iron gets heated up gradually to a certain operating temperature. It gets to that temperature, then an internal bimetallic strip(thermostat) somewhat like a regulator of some sort, and brings the temperature down to a safer minimum.
I don't know whether any of you guys on this platform has ever used a "Philip's pressing iron that hasn't got a temperature regulator in it? If you have, you'll understand that when you iron your clothes with such an iron, you've to keep on unplugging the iron from the wall socket to manually bring the temperature down.
Notice the inconveniences you feel doing that;, when excess heat that's supposed to be used in other applications are being lost as heat. This translates to huge payments to the electricity utility companies.

OK. We're done with the basics. So, what's the impact of the absence of that thermostat/direct radiator fan connections on your car.

1. Your engine/radiator fans come on more often, resulting in to reduced battery life.
When the ignition key is turned to the ON position, toy realise the fan cones on. In the car's cooling design, cooling systems aren't meant to operate that way.

2. Your fuel economy suffers more. If you can remember how much you've being spending on fuel purchases, and now, you'll find out that you've gulped up a " hole " in your fuel economy already.
Fans that keep running all the time, adds additional loads on the engine; and translates in to more fuel consumptions.


***"""The car's engine never reaches the set operating temperatures, and the transmission system gradually suffers"""""*****

You can ask me how. I would explain!
3. Regular radiator fan replacements. One of the reasons auto car makers have designed such cars with a variable speed system, is to help save the customer, cost of frequent fan replacements, and the big one, engine damage.
Fans have bearings in them. These bearings are sealed type of bearings, that can't be grease lubricated. They are replaced when they're have neared their design lifespan. You notice this by the grinding noise heard when the fan is operational. Since such bearings have got a shorter lifespan, a constant run time of such fan bearings would impact negatively on it. You'll have to be conscious of the fact that the bearings would need frequent replacements. That's money you're spending there.


PSS: If its possible to revert your cooling system to the OEM standard, that would be of benefit to you in the long run.

@nony43. Hmmm. You de funny o, Nony43, and perfectly right. Only Jah can save!
Hope you're cool brother?

INTRODUCTION
Today, I'm digressing a bit from the pattern of my write-ups from a male dominated target, to a focusing this one to the female folks.
Many of us, I guess have seen, or even heard stories of how our WIVES, SISTERS, GIRL FRIENDS, and EVEN MOTHERS, have being one way or the other, stranded, in a not too secure area, as a result of vehicle breakdowns.
In such a situation, realizing that it all happened as a result of some minor car faults, and that they become helpless in such a situation, is baffling.

HERE'S WHAT SHE SHOULD DO WHEN FACED WITH A PROBLEM LIKE THAT

1. When driving, let your eyes, ears and mind be at alert. The volume of the car's stereo, should be at a minimum. This would enable you identify where unusual noises are coming from, when faced with one.

2. Depending on the nature of breakdowns, calm down, and give your husband (friend), or your mechanic a call.
Control your emotions in such a situation. Some people take advantage of people who are emotionally unbalanced in such a situation.

3. If you're a hands on lady doing simple stuffs on cars like checking tire pressures, fluid levels,

4. Stay in the car, if the car's Ac system is still running.

5. Be security conscious, while waiting for help to come.
Its a normal sight in Lagos, to suddenly notice the appearance of touts claiming to want to assist you, or get you a mechanic. If you aren't comfortable with such people, ask them to leave, or inform them your MILITARY husband has sent down some military engineers on their way(I'm not lying o! They flee when they hear "soldier de come").
If you're a hands on lady doing simple stuffs on cars like checking tire pressures, and fluid levels,
pop open the bonnet, and check what the problem(s) could be.


CONCLUSION
Its fun driving in a car, but isn't, when suddenly that car breakdown.
Never trust even that brand new car. It too, can put you in a mess.
Understanding the basics of how that car you're driving works, pays off in the long run for you female folks!
Diversify your interests into having just some basic automotive repair tips.
Some ladies kind of like think they shouldn't be concerned about what happens to their cars, assuming, " I'm just to start that car, and drive ". But, emmmm, when it disappoints you on the road, you'll figure out how embarrassing that experience is.

INTRODUCTION
Today, I'm digressing a bit from the pattern of my write-ups from a male dominated target, to a focusing this one to the female folks.
Many of us, I guess have seen, or even heard stories of how our WIVES, SISTERS, GIRL FRIENDS, and EVEN MOTHERS, have being one way or the other, stranded, in a not too secure area, as a result of vehicle breakdowns.
In such a situation, realizing that it all happened as a result of some minor car faults, and that they become helpless in such a situation, is baffling.

HERE'S WHAT SHE SHOULD DO WHEN FACED WITH A PROBLEM LIKE THAT

1. When driving, let your eyes, ears and mind be at alert. The volume of the car's stereo, should be at a minimum. This would enable you identify where unusual noises are coming from, when faced with one.

2. Depending on the nature of breakdowns, calm down, and give your husband (friend), or your mechanic a call.
Control your emotions in such a situation. Some people take advantage of people who are emotionally unbalanced in such a situation.

3. If you're a hands on lady doing simple stuffs on cars like checking tire pressures, fluid levels,

4. Stay in the car, if the car's Ac system is still running.

5. Be security conscious, while waiting for help to come.
Its a normal sight in Lagos, to suddenly notice the appearance of touts claiming to want to assist you, or get you a mechanic. If you aren't comfortable with such people, ask them to leave, or inform them your MILITARY husband has sent down some military engineers on their way(I'm not lying o! They flee when they hear "soldier de come").
If you're a hands on lady doing simple stuffs on cars like checking tire pressures, and fluid levels,
pop open the bonnet, and check what the problem(s) could be.


CONCLUSION
Its fun driving in a car, but isn't, when suddenly that car breakdown.
Never trust even that brand new car. It too, can put you in a mess.
Understanding the basics of how that car you're driving works, pays off in the long run for you female folks!
Diversify your interests into having just some basic automotive repair tips.
Some ladies kind of like think they shouldn't be concerned about what happens to their cars, assuming, " I'm just to start that car, and drive ". But, emmmm, when it disappoints you on the road, you'll figure out how embarrassing that experience is.

INTRODUCTION

The average car owner in Nigeria, especially in the major cities with traffic gridlocks, spend at least three hours driving in their car's Ac system daily.

A city like Lagos, for instance, where there isn't a defined timeline for daily huzzles, a whole lot of people , both in the public and private settings, have turned their cars in to a mini office. This, you can attest to, when you see people driving in their cars, and at the same time, multitasking, or even eating in the car.

Agreed, humans like luxury. But at what cost?

Your car's the most deadliest place where bacteria, molds, and other life threatening diseases accommodate, most especially the car's AC system. They go with you, everywhere you go.

They conglomerate around:
*steering wheels
*gear handles, or knobs,
*seats, door interior handles, and
*underneath the carpets.

These agents like to take you for a ride.
They ensure you get sick occasionally, without knowing where the source of the illness is coming from.

Many car owners, and even Ac technicians assume replacing a car's Ac cabin filter, eliminates the risks of inhaling these dangerous organisms. Some people would even deny such a scenario exists.


HOW DID THESE AGENTS GET IN TO YOUR CAR'S AC SYSTEM IN THE FIRST PLACE?

Bacteria and molds, love to live where there are moistures, and extremely low temperatures. Its a proper breeding ground for them.

These moisture occurs when the Ac system's evaporator core/tubing has some leaks. These leaks, allow moisture droplets onto the car's interior, which subsequently provides an excellent environment for their multiplication.

An efficiently working evaporator, channels these moistures through an exit pipe to the environment. That's why you see vehicles with some kind of moisture dropping underneath the car, when the Ac system is operational.
An evaporator component without this function, has got some faults in it.

SOURCES OF THESE AGENTS:

1. Children dropping crumps in the car. Children love to eat their superbite, and even biscuits in the car. In this process, crumps are dropped, which attracts rats, and also serves as a breeding environment for bacteria and molds.

2. Defecations of rats, pets, and even humans. Rats, just don't cause cause lassa fever, but they are also agents of indoor air quality problems.
A car that's being parked for a long time, would harbour molds, bacteria, and defecations. Putting the car back to service, without carrying out an antibacterial cleaning service, would be a major health risk to you.

3. Clogged and dirty cabin air filters, as a result of trapped particulate matter from the environment.
Replacing a clogged cabin filter, without a corresponding antibacterial cleaning service performed, voids the purpose of your routine cabin filter maintenance.

HEALTH IMPACTS OF POOR CAR INDOOR QUALITY
1. Breathing difficulties. People who are susceptible to some certain type of allergies are more prone to certain diseases when they are in such an environment.
2. Fatigue
3. Frequent headaches
4. Infections
5. Hypersensitivities
6. Allergic reactions
7. Cold symptoms
8. Sinus congestion
9. Pneumonitis
10. Long term ailments
11. Evaporator clogging as a result of bacterial buildup has the potential of reducing the efficiency of your cars AC system. This adds more load on the compressor system.

HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF THE IMPACTS?
1. Regular AC system maintenance. Ensure cabin air filters are replaced at regular intervals depending on operating condition of your vehicle

2. Regularly clean the interior of the car, ensuring there are no food crumps left over by kids; animal droppings are taken care of. Also avoid moisture presence in the interiors your car. Interiors of the car should be properly dried, before winding up the door glasses.
Proper detailing of the car's interiors would be a great panacea.
Ensure the car's interiors are vacuum dried, after a visit to a carwash man. This would ensure potential molds and bacteria are denied safe haven.

3. The most effective way of eliminating these agents is to carry out a MIST( air con bacterial removal) service in a reputable automotive company. This service eliminates all the harmful germs residing in all the hotspots of the car. The service is environmentally friendly environment, and of no health risk to you.

Why not reduce the frequent visits to the hospitals because of the recurring decimal of avoidable diseases? You could save tremendous amount of money on such visits, by treating your AC system.
This short piece, could be the solution you've been craving for.

CONCLUSION
Replacing a car's Ac system cabin filter, isn't all there is to Ac system service.
Bacteria and molds would always like to have a ride with you, and even cause more harm than good.
Knowing that those "guys", are actually being entertained by you, scheduling an antibacterial cleaning service would be a step in the right direction.


CASE STUDY

Vehicle info
Hyundai Tucson, 2008
L4 engine configuration; automatic transmission

CUSTOMER'S REQUEST/SCOPE

Carryout an antibacterial cleaning service on the car, because nothing of such has ever being done.

THE FIX.

*Got the antibacterial cleaning service machine calibrated and our patented must chemical introduced into the machine, to commence the cleaning operation.

*Aligned machine horizontally with the spirit level incorporated on the equipment, and the machine's exit hose positioned under the evaporator system as shown in the picture.

*Stated the engine, and setting the Ac system controls to the max level.

*Doors and windows closed, to make the cleaning more effective.

*Service completed, and doors opened to allow in ventilation of the interiors before entry.


PS: In need of such a wonder service? Please gives us a call.

Regards,
Joseph

08066643532
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

kk na.

Erico. No Sir. Disagree with all that stuff man. That's your opinion though.
Catch later.
I think were done with this somehow. I'm busy right now preparing the next article. I bet you'll like it.

Not the Catcon? That's strange then. What's that in the pix with the oxyacetylene flame welding on it?

Gazzuzz. We have not buried the engine. We would resurrect it. Burying that engine, as you suggest depicts we've given up on it. We don't just give up on stuffs like that.

Can you just give technical backings to your justification that the mesh wires was intended to choke the engine in your words, and leading to its eventual failure? Its that simple. Layman's analogies isn't helping here.

OK. To the main issue now. The "nose" choking analogy won't work.
This is why. You'll have to know the diameter of the material you're using to Chike that nose you talked about; understand if there's a motive for that nose to be choked; determine the diameters of the material used for choking that nose. What's the texture, and structural makeup of the materials to meet up with your objectives of "choking" example you gave. If your answers are OK, then try to apply the points above to the mesh wire and catalyst substrate analogy. I just hope we come to a consensus somehow on this.

@gazzuzz! I'm just tied of this pendulum comments.
OK. Burial would be in heaven.
Well, still your opinion.
Closing one nostrils? That analogy doesn't hold "ruwa". If you close a nose with a material with a diameter of say, 100mm, and a diameter of 30mm, which do you think would choke the person, and even result to death? Choking, in my view, should depend on the texture and structure of that material. Don't you think so? So, if your response is in the positive, compare that to a mesh wire, and a catalyst. Do their diameters measure up?

@erico. You're taking me back to my chemistry lessons now o! Mainly organic chemistry.
Now you're delving into theoretical stuff. Like those backgrounds you've got. That's cool brother!

But it seems you've not really answered my concern.
CAN YOU USE THOSE REDOX REACTIONS TO PROVE HOW WOULD MESH WIRES STALKED IN A CATCON, CAUSE "ENGINE DAMAGE".

I really need technical answers to this.
For the noise levels, have you ever tried this experiment. Remove the catalyst and close back the catcon, and check the noise levels. Would you hear the same kind of of noise? It still depends on the kind of noise you're taking about. Are you saying there won't be any noise or it would still be the same? Or, are you saying if for instance you've got any part of your car's exhaust system that's RUPTURED, are you still saying there won't be any noise, or the noise you'll be hearing would only come from the tailpipe?

I do understand those REDOX and COMBUSTION reactions you're talking about na. I don't think I need to put those reactions in there.
If you read through that article, you'll know that I had emphasised that you'll get poor gas mileage, without a catalyst. So, you saying there won't be noise highs, isn't OK. Just try it out and see.

I would suggest Erico, why not present me with technical proves of all these na.
I must admit there must have being mistakes in some if the use of maybe technical jargons in my write-ups, well, not to worry, would accept your corrections though.

WHAT I IS STILL NEED IS DO A COMPARATIVE CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL ANALYSIS OF A CATALYST SUBSTRATE (vis-à-vis the transition metals) AND THE MESH WIRE. You would find out that mesh wires can't be a permanent fix.
You may want to refer to "Kazeem", now. Ask the Kazeemites about what mesh wires do in catcons, and perhaps they'll be glad to tell you.
Let's not underrate KAZEEM people too o! They know what they're doing sometimes; its just some of them lack basic understanding of the dynamics of operations of some of those stuffs.

I think this discussion is opening us all to new horizons. Don't you think so, Erico?
Let our responses be cordial without insults. How about that? This platform is a " democratic" one. You choose what you want read, hear, and see. But you've got no control over what other peoples responses should be.

"since i am an internet Mechanic, it would be better i sit down and watch the internet brawl. but oga trygo , like 4 people have condemned your fix, am not been sarcastic or ego filled, but its better you retrace your steps, incase of next time.
one love brother"


@nurey. You de funny o! "internet mechanic?!"
This isn't a media war here. Its a "fight" against a MYTH.
I do understand what you're saying.
A thousand condemnations about that fix, doesn't bother me, sir. Except if those ate backed up by some kind of technical proves. You don't just conclude on stuffs like that.
You back them up with facts, not with a layman's understanding (don't take this as an offence please).
I have presented all the reasonings behind the procedures we've employed in fixing that car, and the TOR assigned us by the client.

Check out my responses to Erico. You'll get that on the responses have made so far.

"
"since i am an internet Mechanic, it would be better i sit down and watch the internet brawl. but oga trygo , like 4 people have condemned your fix, am not been sarcastic or ego filled, but its better you retrace your steps, incase of next time.
one love brother"


@nurey. You de funny o! "internet mechanic?!"
This isn't a media war here. Its a "fight" against a MYTH.
I do understand what you're saying.
A thousand condemnations about that fix, doesn't bother me, sir. Except if those ate backed up by some kind of technical proves. You don't just conclude on stuffs like that.
You back them up with facts, not with a layman's understanding (don't take this as an offence please).
I have presented all the reasonings behind the procedures we've employed in fixing that car, and the TOR assigned us by the client.

Check out my responses to Erico. You'll get that on the responses have made so far.

"

@erico. I think I like your style of response here.
I know catalysts are not repaired. You have to replace them with a new or used one.
What you referred to as stacking it, was not a permanent fix to that stuff.
We did that to:

*reduce the loud noise you hear when a catalyst is removed. I guess you know that sound is.

*to by all means bring the car down to Lagos and get all the necessary parts required for the fix.

If you had peradventure read through all the article, I started in it that the scope of the job was to rescue the car, and do the fix in Lagos (that's the car owners TOR to us). He wanted parts bought only in Lagos. Option of way billing whatever part required was presented.

TO YOUR CONCLUSIONS THAT THE WIRE MESH MIGHT HAVE CHOKED THE ENGINE, let's do it this way. Let me so my best to explain technically what I think happened.

*There is no way the mesh wires could block or choke the engine.
If those mesh wires stayed for long, and got rusted in that system, I may perhaps somewhat agree with you, but not totally.

* if you look at the mesh size of that wire, it is of more diameter than even a normal catalyst.
Take a look at the pictures of the catalyst and the mesh wires I posted in the article. You'll notice that the catalyst pores are little bit very tiny, while that of the mesh wires are extremely large.
So, now. If car makers use materials of such tiny diameter, to try to achieve emissions control, and noise suppression on exhaust systems, and such cars work perfectly, except of course the catalyst material (made up of platinum or palladium) gets degraded, it would choke(clog) the free exit of emissions from the combustion chamber. Have you ever wondered, Erico!, why is it that when you try to start your car to no avail, and probably your mechanic comes around, and discover that the catalytic converters were the culprit, has it ever occurred to you to like figure out what the "heavens" could have caused that clogging? Catalyst degrade with time, and usage. The transition metals used as catalytic converters are substrates and when they degrade, and like powdery stuff.
Catalytic converters don't react with corrosion causing agents, and that's why they're used.

*Let me say mesh wires are not transition metals, and can never be used as a substitute for a catalyst. And if in your view, and that of others in this platform, I inserted those in the catcon, as a permanent solution, don't you think my engineering certificate should be withdrawn from me, and maybe, as someone on this platform said that, "hey, Joseph. You should be arrested and put in prison"?
I do understand the dynamics of these things. I don't just work on cars, just to get the bucks.

*Let's even reason this way, Erico. If this was a permanent fix, I don't think I would come on this platform and spew out maybe what I think would impugn on my reputation na. Engine got knocked not on the basis of mesh wires inserted in the catalyst. If that's your reasoning, it is wrong. Putting mesh wires wasn't as inserting it to CHOKE the engine, in such a way to prevent back pressures. Take a look at the mesh wires on the ground at the panel beaters workshop. Those stuffs can't clog the two catalytic converters converters. Except maybe we insert say, a lorry load of those stuffs in it.

*ANOTHER VERY IMPORTANT POINT IS that the during combustion process in any internal combustion engine applications, all end products of the combustion EXITS the exhaust system, and NOT returning back in to the engine.

*I have drawn out a sketch, to support what I mean in the above point.

I do appreciate your positive criticism here.
But I would want you to present to me in tour next response, a counter engineering reason(s) why you think the MESH WIRES caused the problem.


Good morning


Regards,
Joseph

PS: I know the CATCON is an expensive part, which had degraded and caused the problem to the vehicle while it was at the East.
PLEASE GET ME WELL. THE SCOPE IF THE JOB IS "DON'T FIX THAT CAR IN THE EAST. DO WHAT YOU CAN TO DRIVE THE CAR BACK TO LAGOS". SO, are you and others saying with the catalyst bad already, I should drive the car back to Lagos with the attendant noise from the exhaust system? Sorry, if that's what you meant, I can't.

I WOULD RATHER PREFER PEOPLE PRESENT TECHNICAL BACKINGS OR REASONS WHY THAT MESH WIRES WAS RESPONSIBLE.
IN OUR RESPONSES TO THIS ?s, let's all understand what CATALYSTS do in the first place, their CHEMICAL COMPOSITION, and which DIRECTION EXIT GASES FROM COMBUSTION leaves the combustion chamber. IS IT BACKWARDS RETURNING TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, OR OUTWARDS AWAY FROM THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, and then COMPARE IT WITH THE MESH WIRES.
If we can get all these facts ready, I think our for/again the circumstances of the engine problem would be more productive.

*****Sorry, if the sketch is blurred.
Legends:
dotted arrows rep direction of " inlet" gas stream
plain arrows rep direction of exit gases from combustion chamber

I just want to make it really more explicit.

Its better for me to drive a car stashed with mesh wires, than to drive it with a degraded catalyst in it.******

Emmmm, if you're I'm the support that I was responsible for that car's engine failure, say Yeah. If you're not in support, say Nay. Mind you, na me be the speaker here. I can overrule all your decisions. Problem is, you can't impeach me. I refuse to accept responsibility for it sirs. Set a technical inquiry, would attend.
I meant to say a straight engine. Shikenan. Wasalam.

@ marpol. kk na. Case closed. Your opinion though.

@gazzuzz. No sir. Didn't kill that engine.

Probably your conclusions based on the point I raised about engine damage, I think. Well, brother, that's your own point of view.

@gazzuzz. No sir. Didn't kill that engine.

INTRODUCTION
This article is based on Toyota branded hybrid cars, specifically, PRIUS.
Hybrid electric vehicles(HEV), are a luxury to own, because of the many benefits such vehicles come with.
For instance, they've a low emissions carbon footprint; and tremendous fuel cost savings, etc.

Lots of potential hybrid car buyers, see the initial cost of purchase of such cars as exorbitant, or to say the least, very expensive.

One of the reasons such cars are expensive is because of the cost of production of the hybrid battery itself, and the benefits in terms of maintenance cost savings that would accrue to the customer spread over down over the years.

The composition of the battery, is totally different from the normal car battery. The normal car battery is lead acid type, while the hybrid battery is solely a NIMH (Nickel metal hydride ). The electrodes are made from transition metals, which have several applications in other fields.

DOES THE BATTERY LAST FOREVER?
I don't think so. Whatever goes through wear and tear, frequent usage, would definitely someday, fail.
Even healthy human beings suddenly falls sick, and if that person isn't lucky, could give up the ghost.
Toyota says its hybrid batteries lasts for the entire life of its hybrid vehicles, and at the same time says such batteries are under a warranty of 10years/150,000miles.

WHY DO SUCH EXPENSIVE BATTERIES FAIL?

*due to excessive mileages. It should be noted that if a car's mileage, for instance, was around, 300, 759miles, that the car should fail instantly. The operating voltage of the battery, and its amperages would still be able to absorb the load from the car's hybrid control systems. In some instances, the battery would suddenly go out of service as its state of charge (SOC) drops to 0%.

*excessive temperatures. because of the chemical composition of hybrid batteries electrolytes, excess heat tends to cause increased pressure buildups in battery modules.
It so very important to ensure that all blower fan inlet openings are not blocked; blower fans are working optimally.
It is this heat build up in this batteries that cause battery electrolyte leaks on hybrid battery terminals, and explosions also.

Exposing the car for long in the sun, also has its impacts on the battery. Get a shady place to park the car.

*manufacturing processes error. Not all battery modules manufactured in the production facility, would have the same precision during production . Errors could be introduced from human sources.
When such errors are noted as a result of public complaints, companies issue out recalls for such defects.

*driving conditions of car owner. aggressive driving, would shorten the lifespan of the battery; allowing the car in R(reverse), without moving, would abruptly drain the juice in the battery.


SYMPTOMS OF A FAILING HYBRID BATTERY

1. All the dash lights would be displayed on the dashboard, and on the MFD(multifunction display). You'll see lights like Triangle caution sign, check engine light, etc.

2. Unusual engine noise. The engine would frequently be running, instead of the normal switching of both ICE and electric motors.

3. Terrible gas mileage. The fuel consumption of the car would drop drastically from maybe 45-22MPG. If you notice such a deviation of the fuel economy from what it used to be, you've got a battery problem lurking already.

4. Fluctuating fuel gauge. The gauge fluctuates and gives a wrong reading.

5. Sudden drop in battery bars. You parked and left the car with a full battery bar, and suddenly when you came to start the car, you realized the bars have descended to a single bar. At thus point, the engine quickly starts to recharge the hybrid battery.

6. Blower fan comes on regularly. When the fan comes on regularly, it points to the fact that the hybrid is extremely getting heated up, and capacity is depreciating. So, the fan comes on, to help keep it cool, temporarily.

THE FIX?
Normally when hybrid batteries fail, it doesn't mean the entire battery modules in the pack have failed. It could be either one, or two modules have failed.

*Outright replacement. Such batteries can be replaced by purchasing a new one from the company concerned.
Toyota offers a 10year/150, 000miles warranty on its battery pack. It cost thousands of dollars to purchase. Its up to 3000$.

*Recondition the battery. This option is somewhat cheaper, but the labour hours required is more.
The battery in this option is sourced from a low mileage car from a junkyard.
It's advisable to know the history of the donor vehicle. If that can't be ascertained, get a warranty from the supplier of the battery. That would present a win win situation for both parties.
You could get a number of modules online from eBay, and so on. Wherever you're getting your source batteries/modules from, ensure they're loaded tested before buying them.
The cost of a battery pack for a Prius us about 200-250, 000 naira.

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR BATTERY FIT

*Ensure the blower inlets located at the rear are not blocked by the seats coverings.

*Nip in the bud problems before they degenerate into bigger problems.
Don't ignore the triangle caution light sign(master warning light).
Get the car scanned for codes, and start from there.

*Sign up for a bimonthly battery health check. That would show you the current state of your battery, including battery block voltages, state of charge(SOC), and a lot more.
The health check is like a typical system that looks at the available amperage capacity of your battery.

*Carry out a recharge/discharge cycle two or three months, to bring the battery back to full capacity.
Check for corrosions on the battery terminals.
Corrosions o. the terminals would cause partial contact issues.

*Parking the car for long? If you won't be in town for months or weeks, you could pass your car to a friend to keep driving it, before you come. This is because, a parked hybrid car under the sun, would self discharge at a faster rate.
Hybrid batteries self discharge at a rate of 1% daily.

PS: Pictures below shows some of the battery reconditioning we've done.

CONCLUSION
Bear in mind that your car's hybrid battery would not last you forever.
Proper preventive maintenance of such batteries, would extend the battery even beyond Toyota's 10year/150,000miles warranty.

PS: Our battery jobs takes a week for installations and carrying out tests and calibrations.





Regards,
Joseph
08066643532
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

@gazzuzz. You de funny o! Could you explain why I shouldn't drive such cars, or even fix them?
Maybe because you thought the mesh wires for a temporal fix to the noise suppression was a permanent solution?

@knj. Which are you referring to na? Didn't get you. Could you pls explain?

Dear Mr Zimdrill. I would suggest you learn to read through stuffs carefully. Don't draw conclusions on pictures alone. That's not gonna help, I bet you.
Saying "us" in your criticism, doesn't hold water. You could speak for yourself, so I can respond to your concerns appropriately.
That repair, was a temporal one Oga. If you had spent the time studying this write up, you'll discover that at the tail end of the article, I said this temporal fix does not take the place of replacing the degraded catalytic converter with a new or a used one.
The wire mesh we used in the pictures you saw(as insert) was just to suppress the noise coming from the exhaust system, as a result of absence of the catalyst; and that was why I did advise also that anyone who's done similar fix before hoping to get same results as a catalytic converter, is just wasting waiting.
The "insert" ....you saw on that picture wasn't the main catalyst inserted in the catalytic converters. Let me reiterate here again, sir. WIRE MESHES is what's in the catalytic converters as a TEMPORAL FIX.
WIRE MESHES ain't got same properties of the transition metals used in auto catalyst. Those wire meshes just going to rust in the exhaust system, and cause more problems.
Remember, platinum, and the others, do not react with corrosion causing agents, and that's why they're employed as catalyst.
The catalytic converter, mind you has being replaced with a used one.

About the VW emissions saga some months ago, I was totally taken a foot, when that news came to the fore. In that saga, VW designed a software in its vehicles that deceived emissions abatement officials during test to believe that even though their cars were failing the test, they actually were passing it because of the cheat software.

Emmmm, you could disagree with the writeup na.
Read through the writeup in its entirety before coming to such conclusions, or better still, highlight part of the write up you aren't clear about. Maybe both of us can reduce the ambiguity.

PS: This car for God sake Zimdrill broke down in the East, and I was saddled with the responsibility of rescuing and bringing it back to Lagos.
So, in that scope of work, are you saying I should have just drove the car straight down to Lagos, with the terrible noise, making me become an agent of noise pollution? No na Oga!!
It would behoove you to note that that catalytic converter costs 120k to buy.

I studied environmental engineering in the university, and I do understand how such emissions control systems work! I wouldn't assume the " insert" to be a final fix.
CAN'T YOU SEE WHAT I'M SAYING(FEELING) ZIMDRILL!!!!!??

INTRODUCTION
I know most of you guys on this platform might be wondering what does "this" actually mean?
Well, in this article, THIS refers to auto catalytic converters.

CATALYTIC CONVERTERS AND HOW THEY WORK
Catalytic converters are emissions control components incorporated in to a car's exhaust system, with the purpose of ensuring that harmful gases produced from the combustion of fuel(petrol), from internal combustion engine applications, especially petrol engines, are converted into more less harmful ones, before they're safely released in to the atmosphere. Without this technology, the negative human and environmental impacts would have be exponential in scope.
Gases such as carbon dioxide, nitrogen dioxides, hydrocarbons, are some of the pollutants catalytic converters are supposed to take care of.

STRUCTURE OF THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The catalytic converter takes the shape of the catalyst enclosed in it.
The main agent that does the chemical conversions, are the CATALYSTS, and not the
CATALYTIC CONVERTER itself.

COMPOSITION OF CATALYTIC CONVERTER
A catalytic converter has a catalyst in it's internal structure.
The internal structure is made of transition metals, with temperatures ranging from 2500-300°C, and a rare metal, that does not react with agents of corrosion. And it's because of thus properties that these transition metals have that they're highly in demand by companies manufacturing jewelries, wristwatches, etc.

Some of the transition metals used for auto catalysts are
*platinum
*palladium
*iridium
*rhodium
*and a host of others

ENEMY OF CATALYTIC CONVERTERS
The catalyst in catalytic converters are susceptible to overheating, generated as a result if engine misfires.
These misfires could be caused by any of the following:
*fouled spark plugs
*faulty ignition coils
*failing fuel system components
engine compression problems
.
.
.
.
This is what happens, when excessive rich fuel mixture us dumped into the exhaust system, either negatives caused by any of the above mentioned causes.
Since petrol has got some percentage contents of sulphur in it, when a rich mixture of fuel gets into the system, it's always difficult for the catalytic converter to be able to convert this rich mixture into a less harmful one for easy venting to the atmosphere. This is because the catalytic converter works in liaison with the oxygen sensors and the car's computer system(ECU) to control the rate of conversion going on. Any distortion in the set ref operating temperature, would ha e effect on the catalyst.

SYMPTOMS OF A FAILED(FAILING) CATALYST
1. Check engine light suddenly appears. When a catalytic converter is not working efficiently, you'll definitely going to get a trouble code, P0420. In some cases, thus code may not appear on the dash of your car. The preceding symptoms would help you identify if its the catalyst that's at fault.

2. Loss of power. You realize when you step on the throttle pedal, you just don't get a corresponding throttle response when you're driving.
Its somewhat difficult for the car to even ascend a hill.
This loss of power issue should be differentiated from other faults with loss of power issues. For instance, fuel system related problems display similar symptoms also.

3. Limited RPM. Depending on the car, and brand type, some manufacturers keep their RPM limited to between 1.5-2rpm, in order to protect the engine from damage.
If you rev the engine, and it stays at between 1.5-2, your catalyst might have disintegrated and clogged the exhaust system.

4. Lack of back pressure. Because of a clogged catalytic converter, the pressure of the exhaust exit stream is drastically reduced.
The inability of the exhaust system to vent out such volume of converted gases to the environment, would risk damaging the engine.

5. Rotten egg smell. The dumping of raw fuel into the catalytic converter as a result of engine misfires, slows down the conversion process. The smell you tend to perceive, comes from the sulphur content found in the fuel.

6. Rattling noises. Catalysts that have near their end, would disintegrate inside the catalytic converter, and clog the exhaust system, thereby reducing exhaust back pressure.
Some times, the noise is somewhat similar to the subtle noise of a gradually knocked engine.
Take such noises seriously when you observe any.

7. Engine fails to start. We've seen cases where the engine of a car had refused to start.
Fuel, ignition, and even engine related parts have being replaced, without any results.
So the next time you experience a no start situation, start your troubleshooting from the least to the difficult options.

8. Temperature rises. The temperature gauge of the car rises very fast, as the car moves.
The humidity of the interiors of the car, suddenly increases past the 1/2 mark.
You could feel the engine being forced to do more work, than it could bear. That's the simple reason the temperature rises beyond that level.

CHECK OUT THE FOLLOWING WHEN BUYING A CATALYTIC CONVERTER
First and foremost, identify the type and model of your car, before buying a catalytic converter.
New converters would give more value for more, and has got the benefit of a warranty on it.
Used converters have got benefits also, but you've got to ensure that you do the following before buying one:

*check the converter for sounds of rattling in it. This you can detect by shaking the catalytic converter, and listening for noises.
*point a touch light through the one of the catalytic converter openings, and check for passage of the same rays of light, at the other end of the catalyst. If you can't see through the catalytic converter, that converter is clogged, and should not be used.

WHY SOME PEOPLE STEAL CONVERTERS?
Converters have got catalyst made of rare earth metals, which are in high demand by different manufacturing companies.
Lots of companies have got representatives in the solid waste scrape business, where they collect those catalyst from converters, and convert them for use in jewelry, and wristwatch manufacturing.
Because of this reason, some unscrupulous mechanics, and(or) panel beaters have turned the theft if catalytic converters as a second revenue stream.

HOW TO KNOW YOUR CAR'S CONVERTER HAS BEING STOLEN
*You'll get to know the catalytic converter if your car has being tempered with, when suddenly when the car's started, the exhaust sound changes to a "buuuuuuuuuu" noise.

*If you're mechanically inclined, checking the catalytic converter for signs of oxyacetylene flame welding should point to you something fishy has being done on the system.

CONCLUSION
Catalytic converters are critical emission control system incorporated in a car's exhaust system as part of measures to curb the negative impacts of emissions on humans, and the environment.
Distortions in it's internal structure, could lead to major engine failure, with an attendant financial hole in your finances.



CASE STUDY

Ford Explorer 2004
8Cylinder inline engine
Automatic transmission
Car located at Ogbaku, in Imo state, Nigeria

CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINT

*car does not ascend hills,
*fuel pump replaced by a mechanic without any improvement
*some noises coming from the engine
*car is at Ogbaku, in Imo state.
*wants the vehicle fixed and driven back to Lagos

THE FIX. WHAT WE DID

*traveled to the East to asses the c the car, and further confirm what the customer's complaints were.
*troubleshooting of the car was done by physical checks of the various exhaust related components, and a test drive carried out.
Discovered the car can't ascend a hill; low exhaust back pressure; and rattling noises from underneath the engine/exhaust area.
*drove car to a workshop, and requested the panel beater to remove the exhaust system in segments so we could identify the suspect component.
Exhaust tailpipe and mufflers were removed, and inspected for blockages. They were all through.
*asked the panel beater to rip through the catalytic converters with his oxyacetylene flame, in order to see the state if the catalysts.
To our surprise, only one of the catalytic converters was clogged, and the other catalytic converter has got no catalyst even in it.
*removed all the disintegrated catalysts, and stacked mesh wires in its place. This was done temporarily to reduce the "buuuuuuu" noise, and to enable us drive the car to Lagos.
Drove the car to Lagos; handed it over to the owner, and engine got knocked some weeks after.
*plans are on the way to replace the engine, as at the time this article was being conceived.

A stitch in time saves 10(my own saying please).



Regards,
Joseph
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532