₦airaland Forum

Arewa12:
Our rice is gradually getting der... but the rice too get stone abeg

CSTR2:
It still bores down to a failure of a central government.

Buhari is supposed to be driving this so as to protect the Nigerian future.
Because right now everybody is about their ethnic group.

And yet buhari is there collecting billions in salaries and travel allowances for doing absolutely nothing.

CSTR2:
We are ripe for state police where people of education and integrity would be employed by the different states as a police unit.

What we have now instead are militias and mad people.

jumper524:
Welcome development, having more security groups across all geographic regions would give those bandits a run for their money..

Kobicove:
Make more effort to socialise with single guys who are above you financially

EbukaHades10:
Make e reach first. Until the trophy land, I won't celebrate yet cus I've had my fair share of heartbreaks supporting Liverpool

franchize24:
Baba e hungry me pass you walahi

Kulas:
It is possible for us to still catch Liverpool and win the league. I am not wishing any player injury but the truth is that Liverpool will drop drastically if Mane and Virgil got injury at the same time. Not like we Man City that got many injured players yet we still have second and third best eleven and rotates our players in every match as well as playing entertaining and enjoyable matches.. #ProudlyManCity

desiji:
The Pylontech's come with registration of 10years warranty and the BMS is one of the best in the Market, there are LEDs which tells you state of charge and if you set the the cut off voltage it cuts it off without and still safegaurd itself from complete deplection by shutting down

Barezzi:
Yes, but a 13.8kwh BYD B-Box "drop-in" replacement will set me back over N3.5m
Do we really need 2 kidneys?

nonoski:
I totally agree this theory is flawed
I don't have energy for warranty wahala
I have had several nasty experience in the past so I don't even believe in warranty from a Nigerian business no matter how big they are.

ceaser:
I avoid joining wires with panels, especially the roof mounted. If I need wires extended, I simply construct extension wires using male and female MC4s and a commensurate guage wire. I've even had cause to construct branching MC4 wires one time like that when I needed one for parallel connection on emergency basis.

My experience with one small install that the wire gave way to the elements after about two consecutive rainy and dry season taught me some lessons.

The generous use of tape did not prevent the problem and the tape simply gave way, rain/moisture came in, alternated with drying/severe dessication and heat during the dry seasons and then the wires began to get brittle and simply smouldered off at the joint.

Shrink tubing can give some pretty solid insulation but I doubt if it would keep moisture away 100% without added use of silicone gels.

ojeysky:
Yes that's the scenario I meant

nonoski:
I wouldn't advice anyone to buy this particular luminous product.
I have a nasty experience with them.

All 12 batteries failed within 10 months

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I need to clarify that it is not really about tightness of the connection but two factors come before;

1) Sufficient contact area between the cables being joined - i have found your typical near 1 inch of contact insufficient - perhaps 2 inches of contact is ideal and splitting the cables into smaller branches that can be wound/braided together better

2) Ability to weatherproof the connection and keep moisture out as well as withstand heat.

Think of it that the cables with cheap asian panels may be substandard but the use of MC4 is not magically upgrading the cables to a better spec, rather the MC4 ensures minimum viable contact surface area between the panels and keeps moisture out and is able to withstand the heat of the sun.

To reiterate MC4 metal contacts are pretty thin and unable to withstand the arc that comes from making or breaking contact under load, yet if used properly, they manage to create secure connections that last many years.

I encourage anyone to look into the anderson power plugs for DC connections - rated for about 100,000 no load connects/disconnects and over 200 connect/disconnects at full load. Even if you don't use them to connect panels together, a serious DIYer or pro installer will doubtless find many applications for them.

Topmost11:
I also need to look at my system based on this. I was short on mc4 then and did some knotted together too in some places. Harvest has been poor and maybe that's the culprit. I have mc4 coming on the way though. Ignorance, woe betide you.

ojeysky:
Is it really possible to avoid joining totally? For instance in my all series setup, I still had to cut the cable so as to extend the stock mc4

ojeysky:
The MPP GK series is one of its kind with nominal at over 230v and can do up to 500v

NiyiOmoIyunade:
MC4s are the standard way to connect solar panels together, they are also probably the most cost effective and easy to deploy connector rated for outdoor use.

They are virtually plug and play and weather proof (can withstand outdoor rain and heat for many years) and with them, you can easily change config without too much hassle.

However, what lot of people don't know is that they are very delicate and can only be connected in a *no load state* e.g you can't have your CC running and producing juice then you climb up your roof and add or disconnect a string - especially add a string. You must disconnect the panels from CC first before making or breaking connections with MC4

What will happen if you don't follow this rule is you get micro burns in the metal contacts of the MC4 and ultimately the connector begins to lose contact and burn out.

Also with the plethora of MC4 out there you have to open your eyes to purchase a mid-range to premium quality item and test that the metal contacts mate tightly with each other and your solar panels own MC4 metal pins - you can use the pins only and without the plastic case to quickly perform this test.

There is nothing wrong with twisting solar panel wires together especially for a permanent connection, just that you can't do it like your average lazy installer. You have to expose sufficient wire contact area and braid the cables together tightly - that one inch portion of cable twisted hastily around another will not do otherwise heat is generated from lose/partial contact and cables starts to burn. You are looking at exposing like 2 inches of copper per cable, splitting into a Y or X like shape and braiding each branch very tightly around its mate from the other cable. After all is done, you must now insulate and weather proof the connection - here you must use your best electrical tape and silicon or caulk as whatever you do must be able to resist the elements for many years.

There are specialty connectors like the anderson power plug that people find better rated than MC4 but these are generally more expensive and hard to find in Nigeria (they can be easily imported though)

ceaser:
If I understand you, does this imply that if I have a 12v set up with MPPT SCC in the mix, I can also make 6pcs 18v 150watts panel config 3s2p rather than 2s3p and still be within the safe SCC output voltage to charge the 12v battery?

I thought peeps say that the sweet spot for a system when using an MPPT SCC is "2 times" the voltage of the system, i.e. 12v battery/24v solar input, 24v battery/48v solar input etc.

mcTrinity:
About 6 or so sellers in this forum, but all negative reviews has centered and revolved on just one person. There's always room for change and improvement.

And every client should be treated with utmost importance, no matter how little the transaction! A 300k-transaction-client can tomorrow connect you to 3m-transaction-client: this is an irrefutable fact!!!

"Ezi afa ka ego" (good name is better than riches).

Integrity is the key!!!

Having said that, lemme just save these pictures here... . My phone memory is full. Lolz.

I wish us all God's Grace in all we do this year, and beyond...


<<<IN The PICS>>>
*3.5KVA/48V Safepower (Indian) Inverter
*19.2KWh [EDITED] Safepower (Indian) Battery Bank Storage Capacity
*3.63KW Total PV Array, split into two streams
-1.8KW Canadian PV Array, mounted South-East Orientation
-1.83KW Canadian PV Array, mounted North-West Orientation
*2 units of SNRE 60A MPPT Solar Charge Controller

>ACCESSORIES
*DC and AC Surge Protection Devices
*Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker
*Residual Current Device
*AC and DC Isolation Breakers
*AC Over/Under Voltage Protection Device
*Bypasses (for Inverter, Fridge, Freezer)
*AC Multi-meter (Energy Wattmeter)
*Automatic Transfer Switches (for freezer and fridge Auto Control)
*Electronic Digital Timers (for freezer and fridge Auto Control)
*HA02 Battery Balancers
*Terminal Block
*AC Digital Voltmeters
*DC Digital Voltmeters

mcTrinity:
Deka USA? 200A?? 130k Like, One Hundled and Thirty Thousand Naila? (in Igbo tongue)
Odiegwu! (in Titus voice)

solasola:
mc4 connectors atimes losses current. You know there are little sparks here and there if the connection ain't thight enough.

earthrealm:
Yeah, i later saw that.
My issue is that 50v is the rated input of the cc.
The Voc of most 12v panels is abt 18v, linning up 3 in series should give 54v, wch is above cc rating...
Wudnt this damage the CC?

I hv damaged a morning star mppt cc, when i lined up 4 x 250w panels Voc of 38v or so in series. It worked ok for over 2months, till 1 day i get a call that inverter is down.
I go and cc is dead. I contacted morningstar corp usa, and explained truthfully what i did, they said thats what killed it, and refused to honor the 5yr waranty

So since then, i jejely dont play with Voc

ceaser:
Had some 4pcs 150 watts flames panels in parallel on a 30amp PWM SCC on a 12v system. Max yield on most days had been between 180-200 watts.

Last week I noticed serious drop in SoC of the battery such that the LVD that used to clock in at 8:30pm suddenly changed to 5:30pm. WTF!

I proceeded to clean panels (roof mounted) using the usual home mopping stick with extended handle, soaked with water. I climbed a ladder

That didn't solve the problem, but I later found the culprit to be a poor connection at the solar input terminals on the SCC which unfortunately had possibly produced some sparks which melted terminal and distorted the terminal screws placement. Unable to unscrew the spoiled terminal and not having a replacement 30amp SCC, I resorted to a crude manual connection at the terminals, a rather poor solution.

Thankfully, a 60amp MPPT I ordered weeks ago got delivered in the nick of time. I changed panel config to 2s and added two more 150 watts panel (everything now 2s3p). I have been getting 43amp nominal input and around 650 watts on the SCC.

As I type, battery has refused to leave 12.9v and it is still headed to a 12.4v LVD.

MPPT is sweet!
Lithium is sweet!

oliyeniun:
Hi House,

I bought a set of panels from a renowned and respected person on this forum known for warning against fake solar panels and accessories. i have transacted business for a long time with this said person and had no cause to doubt his integrity. however my last transaction with him gave me reasons to question his business dealings with me as shady as i ordered for panels (three 250 Watts) and he told me he was sending flames panels which he got direct from the company.

Unfortunately, when the panels came, there was no indication that it was a flames panel and the installer confirmed same. as at 1pm, i was getting less than 2Amps current on a single panel and it was quite sunny. Since then the person has cut off all communications with me as he was also trying to get kickback from the installer (which i got to know about later and refused to work with his agreement), this is after overpricing[color=#990000][/color] even the logistics of how the items got to me.

please i am just curious, is it possible to buy a flames panel without the sticker indicating that it is flames? is there anyone with sample picture of how flames panels look? thank you

tonididdy:
Good morning sir.
I wish I can study more about your last sentence. Tye installer installed the change over switch in this setup. He said it's for emergencies or if I wanted to run (on NEPA or gen) heavy devices like the pump machine, iron, microwave.

I'm really very amaturic in all of this. The panel setup I looked is negative- to negative notted together and positives + notted together. I believe if I get new panels I just have to do same (or am I wrong?)

freshpzy1:
My sincere apologies