blazetitov:


UPDATE
Well, Let me start by thanking God who saved me from incurring N33K abnormal expenses and also not losing my OEM compressor and drier and some other parts. Got a contact on Nairaland, went to the company, the system was refilled with refrigerant so that we can trace the leak and their AC technician said my compressor is leaking and we will have to change it and the drier. Total cost 33k. I left the place thinking of how to factor that sum into my budget. As i was getting to my street, i decided to take the first advice to steam wash my condenser which was sincerely and extremely dirty. To my surprise, since that Saturday (22/2), the system came back alive like a miracle happened and it has been cooling since then(still checked last night becos i don't take the car to work during the week). I honestly have been try to decipher what went wrong. Apart from my dirty condenser, maybe the AC guy that did the initial refill used a bad refrigerant as well. I tried to change the cabin air filter last night but i couldn't get around the glove box. I will take it to the AC guys in my area on Saturday to determine if the right amount of gas is in the system.

Question: Do one need to ever refill a cars refrigerant if there was no leak in the first place.

@ the bolded no need. meanwhile you might still have a leak.

So the Car's AC can stay cool for 5 years if there is no leak? A colleague said so and i told him i dont believe so. I will keep monitoring the AC system to detect the leak. Thanks for your time.

blazetitov:
So the Car's AC can stay cool for 5 years if there is no leak? A colleague said so and i told him i dont believe so. I will keep monitoring the AC system to detect the leak. Thanks for your time.

my rio came off production line in 2007, 7years later still waxing strong, never been re-charged.

blazetitov:
So the Car's AC can stay cool for 5 years if there is no leak? A colleague said so and i told him i dont believe so. I will keep monitoring the AC system to detect the leak. Thanks for your time.

My HL came off production in 2003 and my RX 05, all are still working very well. Even before I have gone thru their service histories, no AC recharge or work or what ever.

@ Lokomike & Gazzuzz, That's very good to know. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Thanks Master Gazzuzz I just acquired the rav 4 2006 model from cotonou. Is it adviceable to service the car immediately before I take it down to east. And is the best oil to use? Thank you.

conyema12:
Thanks Master Gazzuzz I just acquired the rav 4 2006 model from cotonou. Is it adviceable to service the car immediately before I take it down to east. And is the best oil to use? Thank you.

Congrats on your new acquisition.

Recommended engine oil for your vehicle is 5W30 change engine oil and filter. Search cartalk for tumabab he sells it. 2AF69725 that's his bbm pin.

GAZZUZZ:


Congrats on your new acquisition.

Recommended engine oil for your vehicle is 5W30 change engine oil and filter. Search cartalk for tumabab he sells it. 2AF69725 that's his bbm pin.

Thank you very much.

valarinz:
Hello

My 2002 Volvo v70 automatic has some issues:

Hard starting:, it takes two times to get the car started, and sometimes when the engine is hot this doesn't happen

Slow acceleration: it takes time for the car to get going despite pressing hard on the pedal, and when it picks finally and struggles through the first and second gear, the movement becomes smoother

Hard to pick up while using ac: when the ac is on, the car seems heavier for the engine and accelerates more slowly

Please oga GAZZUZZ, any ideas on what might be the issue

many thing can cause the problem. I don't know where to start from. Fuel pump.... fuel Pressure regulator. .... fuel line leakage...... over retarded timing..... crankshaft position sensor..... wrong operating temp (bad coolant temperature sensor, thermostat, bad fan operation. ...).... air leaks..... MAF and/or MAP sensor...... faulty or blocked injector nozzles. ..... misfire due to faulty ignition cable/coil/spark plug.....bad EGR.....faulty valves....... engine with bad compression.... fouled engine oil...... engine running rich (bad operating temp, FPR, leaky injector, bad CTS e.t.c) and others........

If you have the minor things checked and they are okay, it's likely your throttle position sensor from your description of poor acceleration and AC dragging down engine power.
BR.

Hello gents,please i want to know if range rover is less problematic,I have been driving Benz cars fr some years and I want to try other product....I heard it does have transmission issues I don't know how true......any RR expert here.....

Ricmayak1:


many thing can cause the problem. I don't know where to start from. Fuel pump.... fuel Pressure regulator. .... fuel line leakage...... over retarded timing..... crankshaft position sensor..... wrong operating temp (bad coolant temperature sensor, thermostat, bad fan operation. ...).... air leaks..... MAF and/or MAP sensor...... faulty or blocked injector nozzles. ..... misfire due to faulty ignition cable/coil/spark plug.....bad EGR.....faulty valves....... engine with bad compression.... fouled engine oil...... engine running rich (bad operating temp, FPR, leaky injector, bad CTS e.t.c) and others........

If you have the minor things checked and they are okay, it's likely your throttle position sensor from your description of poor acceleration and AC dragging down engine power.
BR.

Thanks a lot

I finally got my skoda octavia to run. Car had been left idle for three years. It runs great but has one small issue. The fans run constantly at high speed. They start running as soon as you turn the car on. Being a diesel engine, I don't suppose it will have much of an effect on mpg since it doesn't use spark ignition and the temperature dependent burning properties of petrol. I would like to revert to factory settings so it doesn't put too much strain on the alternator and battery but I have read that the fan is directly controlled by the brain box and as such not much can be done. Has anyone successfully tackled something like this?

Hello house,

Sometimes my car engine doesn't totally go off even when I've out it off and removed the keys and even locked the car, you still hear the engine whirring for some minutes before it finally dies down.

Is there anyone with an explanation to this and is it a cause for worry.

Thanks

I

valarinz:
Hello house,

Sometimes my car engine doesn't totally go off even when I've out it off and removed the keys and even locked the car, you still hear the engine whirring for some minutes before it finally dies down.

Is there anyone with an explanation to this and is it a cause for worry.

Thanks

It's not your engine. It's your cooling fan. Some cars are equipped with fans that can even come on on their own once it senses extreme temperature in the engine. So even after you have shut off your engine, there is something called latent heat that the cooling system tries to get rid of. It's not a problem.

valarinz:
Hello house,

Sometimes my car engine doesn't totally go off even when I've out it off and removed the keys and even locked the car, you still hear the engine whirring for some minutes before it finally dies down.

Is there anyone with an explanation to this and is it a cause for worry.

Thanks

Type of vehicle? Are you fans connected to work immediately the ignition is switched on?

GAZZUZZ:


Type of vehicle? Are you fans connected to work immediately the ignition is switched on?

its a 2002 Volvo v70 and the fans work when the vehicle is switched on

valarinz:


its a 2002 Volvo v70 and the fans work when the vehicle is switched on

Return your fan connections to normal, problem solved.

GAZZUZZ:


Return your fan connections to normal, problem solved.

sorry bro, didn't quite get your question, now I understand the question and the answer is that the fan doesn't start immediately I start the car, it actually takes a while, does that make any difference

thanks

My Oga Gazzuzz i hail o!!!
i am patietly waiting for your input so i can have my car run like it used to be b4 December, 2014.

Also, for over a year now, i hv been servicing my Engine with TOTAL QUARTZ 5000. I change oil at every 3,000Miles using same Total. i choose Total been the fact that i can be sure of the content; coz i buy from Total Petrol Station Area11 or the one opposite NNPC. NOW MY QUESTION IS, CAN I START USING THE RECOMENDED OIL OF 5W30 I'M SEEING AROUND LIKE THE ONE KONGA SELL ETC OR CONTINUE WITH TOTAL 5000?

HONDA BABY BOY (WITH BRAINBOX ISSUE) FROM ABUJA

nairacountry:
My Oga Gazzuzz i hail o!!!
i am patietly waiting for your input so i can have my car run like it used to be b4 December, 2014.

Also, for over a year now, i hv been servicing my Engine with TOTAL QUARTZ 5000. I change oil at every 3,000Miles using same Total. i choose Total been the fact that i can be sure of the content; coz i buy from Total Petrol Station Area11 or the one opposite NNPC. NOW MY QUESTION IS, CAN I START USING THE RECOMENDED OIL OF 5W30 I'M SEEING AROUND LIKE THE ONE KONGA SELL ETC OR CONTINUE WITH TOTAL 5000?

HONDA BABY BOY (WITH BRAINBOX ISSUE) FROM ABUJA

5W30 is the recomended oil, there's a chap in abuja that sells a reputable brand (penzoil usa) midasola I have bought from him before, his number is 08023698618 you can give him a call. Sorry I've been really busy under cars and running to the market, ill solve your ecm issue this weekend.

Oga Gazzuzz,
Please your advice is needed. A colleague 1999 Toyota Camry(Pencil light) goes off on when motion whenever he slows down. It starts to vibrate then it goes off or keep vibrating or jerking until he is able to increase the car's speed again. His Mr Kazeem has 'washed' the car's Fuel Pump, Injector, Fuel Filter and Nozzle but the problem still persist causing him some embarrassment like going off on Alaka bridge on Monday morning on his way to work.

The CEL is on. He said it came on after the car was serviced sometimes ago. The car was scanned today and the code that came up was;

PO401 (EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW INSUFFICIENT DETECTED).

Kindly advice on what to do next.

Opinions from other car gurus in the house are welcomed.

blazetitov:
Oga Gazzuzz,
Please your advice is needed. A colleague 1999 Toyota Camry(Pencil light) goes off on when motion whenever he slows down. It starts to vibrate then it goes off or keep vibrating or jerking until he is able to increase the car's speed again. His Mr Kazeem has 'washed' the car's Fuel Pump, Injector, Fuel Filter and Nozzle but the problem still persist causing him some embarrassment like going off on Alaka bridge on Monday morning on his way to work.

The CEL is on. He said it came on after the car was serviced sometimes ago. The car was scanned today and the code that came up was;

PO401 (EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW INSUFFICIENT DETECTED).

Kindly advice on what to do next.

Opinions from other car gurus in the house are welcomed.

EGR valve palava, check that mechanism. Read thru this:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/428144-good-old-p0401.html

blazetitov:
Oga Gazzuzz,
Please your advice is needed. A colleague 1999 Toyota Camry(Pencil light) goes off on when motion whenever he slows down. It starts to vibrate then it goes off or keep vibrating or jerking until he is able to increase the car's speed again. His Mr Kazeem has 'washed' the car's Fuel Pump, Injector, Fuel Filter and Nozzle but the problem still persist causing him some embarrassment like going off on Alaka bridge on Monday morning on his way to work.

The CEL is on. He said it came on after the car was serviced sometimes ago. The car was scanned today and the code that came up was;

PO401 (EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW INSUFFICIENT DETECTED).

Kindly advice on what to do next.

Opinions from other car gurus in the house are welcomed.

Call 08023251039

Hi there, guys. I want to clean my interior soon. Just want to share some article on it with you. Here it is - http://cohomag.com/outdoor-cleaning/cars/leather-seats.html It concerns leather cleaning. Very useful, as for me.

lomomike:


EGR valve palava, check that mechanism. Read thru this:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/428144-good-old-p0401.html

thanks boss. That was educative.

GAZZUZZ:


Call 08023251039

.

Thanks. I forwarded your number to him.

Please my oga, can you post a sample pix of the "spacer" & wat it does.
Thanks

hello Gents
Glad to join this wonderful and informative thread
Have a 2001 honda accord baby boy (manual gear), lost my first engine in the hands of quake road side mechanics after many trials on the engine timing belt, well, to cut the long story short... i bought a new engine but it has not served up to three months the engine started acting funny, when i accelerate on a neutral gear (warming) the rpm metre is restricted, i mean it never passes number 3, jerks the engine sort of.
on highway, i cant accelerate more than 120 besides if you waste time in selecting gear 2 to 3, it would jerk (irritating frustrating).
one mechanic said its an in built police sensor inside the engine but i was scared to permit them work on it coz me never enjoy my new tukunbo engine.
recently, a friend introduced me to obd scan machine.
i bought and ran the scan and got the following result:

"current fault" P0335 - power train crankshaft position sensor A circuit

"current fault" P0172 - power train system too rich (Bank 1)

"current fault" P0141 - power train O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 1 sensor 2)

"pending fault" P0505 - power train idle control system

Misfire: complete
fuel system: complete
components: complete
Reserved: Not avail
Heated Catalyst: Not avail
Catalyst: incomplete
Evaporative Sys: incomplete
Secondary air sys: not avail
A/C Refrigerant: not avail
02 sensor: incomplete
02 sensor heater: complete
EGR system: incomplete

i have no clue about the result, please guru in the house help put me through.
i appreciate
thank you

oluwaleokey:
hello Gents
Glad to join this wonderful and informative thread
Have a 2001 honda accord baby boy (manual gear), lost my first engine in the hands of quake road side mechanics after many trials on the engine timing belt, well, to cut the long story short... i bought a new engine but it has not served up to three months the engine started acting funny, when i accelerate on a neutral gear (warming) the rpm metre is restricted, i mean it never passes number 3, jerks the engine sort of.
on highway, i cant accelerate more than 120 besides if you waste time in selecting gear 2 to 3, it would jerk (irritating frustrating).
one mechanic said its an in built police sensor inside the engine but i was scared to permit them work on it coz me never enjoy my new tukunbo engine.
recently, a friend introduced me to obd scan machine.
i bought and ran the scan and got the following result:

"current fault" P0335 - power train crankshaft position sensor A circuit

"current fault" P0172 - power train system too rich (Bank 1)

"current fault" P0141 - power train O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 1 sensor 2)

"pending fault" P0505 - power train idle control system

Misfire: complete
fuel system: complete
components: complete
Reserved: Not avail
Heated Catalyst: Not avail
Catalyst: incomplete
Evaporative Sys: incomplete
Secondary air sys: not avail
A/C Refrigerant: not avail
02 sensor: incomplete
02 sensor heater: complete
EGR system: incomplete

i have no clue about the result, please guru in the house help put me through.
i appreciate
thank you

Easy fix, replace crank position sensor ( located under crank pulley) replace idle speed sensor, replace 02 sensor.

If you in lagos contact me 08023251039.

The restriction is because the car is in limp mode caused by the crank position error. The other 2 errors will cause excessive fuel consumption and erratic engine idle speed.

hello house,

a friend said he scanned his vehicle and got the following codes

TCM 0 00B SHIFT SOLENOID SL HYDRAULIC FAULT
ECM O 9400 BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SIGNAL SENSOR

please, is there anyone who can help explain what the above code implies for his vehicle, the vehicle is a Volvo s80

Thanks

Pls Gazzuzz my car has been havin problem starting only when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal temperature, car starts well.

My mechanics have changed many things like plugs, plug wires, and fuel point, service injector nozzles and cleaned fuel filter. The ECTS has been changed twice yet no solution.

Initially the codes were those of engine misfires, cylinder 1, 2 and random misfires. The CEL disappeared after one mechanic worked on the plug wires by using black cellotape to wrap round it. But the following morning the car would not start. Trying hard to start it by "firing" it hard brought back the CEL.

The last mech that tried to work it was the one that changed the fuel pump and the ects. After that, my car developed new symptoms of hesitation, high rev before changing gear, jerking while changin gears. I scanned again and got codes for ECTS fault, TPS and MAP sensors failure (dont have the codes offhand now). I changed the throttle body and the ects and those hesitation and gear symptoms disappeared.

This morning, the car would not start again. I had to "fire" it and hold it at 3000rpm or more till the engine warms before i drive off. The hotter the weather is, the more attempt the car makes to start.

My car is 1999 honda accord, I4, automatic gear.

Pls what could wrong with it? I'm frustrated, it has been 3 weeks since this started

Hello,

I need some advice. I recently bought a Toyota Camry 2010 model with 2.5L engine capacity. What is the recommended engine oil for this vehicle? Does Mobil or Total have the engine oil that can be used to service the vehicle?