mayo47:

Hello,

I drive a 2006 accord, i noticed whenever i buy fuel [b]the car never starts not until i keep accelerating [/b]it plus is it advisable to use Oando dexron II for the transmission fluid. Your responses highly appreciated.

nas00:


Sir,

I don't understand what you mean by the bolded.

As for transmission fluid, Honda recommends ATF-DW1 for your Accord.

You can buy ATF-DW1 on amazon/ ebay OR simply contact luvinghubby. He imports the ATF for sales.

mayo47:


Sir,

All I meant was after fueling my car, it refuses to start until I keep pumping the throttle before the engine starts.

nas00:


Ok.

Considering that you said this happens ONLY when you refuel your car, it's hard to say. Possibly due to clogged injectors or early fuel pump failure (less likely).

Observe to see if the engine loses power at certain points while in use (or shuts down completely) and how frequently this occurs.

Cheers!

OLaw1:

I just changed my Honda EOD 2003 Gear box and looking for Honda ATF Z1 to refill. Can anyone please tell me where, how and how much i get get it. How many litres will i need to use to flush out the current ATF (OANDO Dextron II)

Flyingman:
Good day house. please o I need advice before this mechs hinch my pocket. I have a 2007 accord that's currently giving me issues. I noticed the water in my radiator dries up completely every day I top it. took it to the mecho and he suggested I change the radiator, but before the change, the water in my reserve tank kept increasing and bubbling, so he took off the thermostat which I didn't agree to but the removal stopped the bubbling but with persistent lil shortage of water in the radiator and increase of water in the reserve tank. I also had difficulty in starting the car after the removal of the thermostat. So we replaced the radiator to a double cell one but this issue still persist with the thermostat totally yanked off, no sign of leakage at all. want to take it to another mecho but needs ideas of the real culprit. Advise needed please.

PS: this car has overheated before but the real culprit was the fan but this time around the temp gauge doesn't show any sign of overheating.

GAZZUZZ:

Pressure cap (Radiator cover) have it replaced. If that is fine go to a better workshop and conduct a pressure test, if it reveals nothing, then I'm afraid your head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine oil or combustion chamber.

GAZZUZZ:

Pressure cap (Radiator cover) have it replaced. If that is fine go to a better workshop and conduct a pressure test, if it reveals nothing, then I'm afraid your head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine oil or combustion chamber.

Flyingman:


Many thanks for that. From my great research skills. I totally agree with you with the head gasket. The car smokes(white smoke) heavily in the morning and I once had an overheating issue when the fan failed to spin. it stutters sometimes when trying to kickstart in the morning. how much does it cost to replace this? I hope its a simple procedure.

inze:


Honda replaced ATF z1 with ATF DW1
Contact Luvinhubby for it
www.hondaspares.com.ng (08029255299)

lomomike:


1.There should be a considerable difference in temperature when you touch the hoses which acts as coolant exit hose and coolant entry hose after a while of driving.
2. Your fan should kick on and off intermittently. 3. Your coolant temperature gauge should gain a rise in level after a while driving. However, it should NOT rise to the RED mark/zone.
4. After all is said in 1,2 and 3, your car shouldn't experience overheating.


Bypassing your radiator fan to work continuously is a very bad practice. Anyone who attempt that on your car pls shoot his/her hands.

The manufacturer of your car intentionally configured the radiator fan to work intermittently so as to ensure the temperature of the engine rises to a defined range at which the engine operates at its MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY and EFFECTIVENESS which inturn brings about lower fuel consumption, less stress which inturn give greater LONGIVETY of ENGINE.

Bypassing the radiator fan defeats the purpose It makes the engine operate at a cooler temperature which stresses the engine and causes premature wear and slow death of that engine. I don't wanna go into the details. Because I've spoken on this topic many times.

nobility1:
Pls I need help. I use Honda (94) bulldog automatic. the problem is dat it doesn't idle, d engine stops on motion whenever I put my leg off d throttle or apply break.
Secondly I have difficulty wen shifting d gear out of park(P) position, it won't shift until I remove d key from ignition and put in d shift locker. I recently change d transmission fluid.
I'll appreciate anybody with useful info on how to go about it. thanks

Macmilla:
Please pals, which sensor could be responsible for delayed 1-2 and 2-1 shifting in accord 2001 4cyl.

Galads:
Good day fellow nlanders, I drive a 2001 v6 Honda accord. I recently decide to drive from lagos to kaduna and I will say the worst journey I have embarked on. At first when I got to okene road, the car started over heating. I manage to drive to okene while stopping at intervals to refill the radiator and cool the engine with water. I noticed the pipe connecting the radiator to the engine was leaking, so I assume that was the cause of the over heat. I changed it at okene and till I got to kaduna the car became stable but the D4 light keeps blinking and the car doesn't pick fast when I hit the throttle. I checked the ATF and it's short so I topped it but the light still blinks. What could be the problem? And I think the car sucks fuel. I used 112litres covering 560kms.

Galads:
Good day fellow nlanders, I drive a 2001 v6 Honda accord. I recently decide to drive from lagos to kaduna and I will say the worst journey I have embarked on. At first when I got to okene road, the car started over heating. I manage to drive to okene while stopping at intervals to refill the radiator and cool the engine with water. I noticed the pipe connecting the radiator to the engine was leaking, so I assume that was the cause of the over heat. I changed it at okene and till I got to kaduna the car became stable but the D4 light keeps blinking and the car doesn't pick fast when I hit the throttle. I checked the ATF and it's short so I topped it but the light still blinks. What could be the problem? And I think the car sucks fuel. I used 112litres covering 560kms.

shfizle:
Any ideas people? I asked the mech to help me fix my spider joint which made gear change noisy (long term issue). I also noticed recently the gear change wasn't smooth when I tried accelerating after braking. He checked ATF and said it was low. Okay fix spider joint and add ATF. He did both and I thought all was fine, then I took car out to work.
No noise when shifting gear but less than a kilometer, the gear just wouldn't engage anymore. Engine works and I can move the stick, the car just wouldn't move anymore. After stopping the car and leaving it a while before starting , the gears would work a bit then stop.
Another mechanic around suggested it was the ATF, bought Oando, same.
I'm scared I'll have to buy another gearbox and the price I hear is a bit high, but because the car still moves after a while I'm thinking it's not a total gearbox failure. Maybe gearbox filter or a bad sensor, maybe still the oil. I'm only being optimistic... And please if you know any good gearbox mech around egbeda, I hear there are few of them around. Thanks

shfizle:
The mech said he used Seahorse to top the ATF, but he used Oando (not sure dextron II or III) the second time though

lomomike:


Hmmmm! bro, better start to gather another money for another g*****x

GAZZUZZ:


Simple if you know what you are doing.

Replace head gasket
Replace valve steam seals
Grind valves
Ensure timing is properly set.

The parts involved are very cheap, its more about the labour.

Flyingman:


Thank you so much for this. Did the change and car is in somewhat perfect condition except for another observed issue. Car jerks when trying to accelerate while driving. Notice it only occurs when fuel is 25% below but above that it drives normal. Sometimes it goes off when I try to press the pedal when in motion. could it be the oxygen censor? advice would be appreciated. thank you.

Notice it only occurs when fuel is 25% below but above that it drives normal.

mrsage:
Hello.
I drive a 2009 Honda City but u have a challenge.
Recently i discovered that sometimes when d engine is running but car is parked or in neutral, the car begins to vibrate more.
At this point the check engine light comes on and later goes off after about 30 minutes.

This only happens sometimes especially after a long journey.

What do i do? I also dont have a learned and trusted mechanic.

I dislike Honda place too. Kindly assist.