₦airaland Forum

Everything in that car that hate flood is on the floor. The first thing you may spend hundreds of thousands on if you enter flood is your ac components. You may enter water but not flood. Water must not touch yoor ecu and throttle body as well as your air filter fuses and switches box

Manual is still very much appreciated in Nigeria by me and many others..Toyota is still top on the list over here. How much is the corolla? Can i see some pics ?

Mecksmail:
You'd be surprised at results you could get with modifications to both suspension and power train packages.

I only come in here because of one thing, that is suspension.

I am not a peugeot person but my dad is,so i'm gonna tell you that peugeot has one of the best suspension system if not the best in her category, i'm talking from my uncles 504 wagon & 406 best line, no truck , i repeat, no truck has such a suspension package like the 504 wagon, solid to the hilt.

Also , when it comes to handling, a well maintain peugeot 406 handles a lot better than a well maintain big daddy camry, there is absolutely no comparison here. Everything boils down to maintenance.

Camry will definitely return better economy and take off, but when it comes to drive train, i mean driving mechanics; suspension; and handling, including long distance endurance, the 406 takes upper hand here than the big daddy.

I have driven both cars in well maintained conditions for long distance journey. With my driving skill with the Camry big Daddy and Spider, i would always be reminded of her driving mechanics especially at bends and rough roads that i wasn't handling my Benz's, that i should be very careful i.e when carried by her take off and i would want to hit the pedal with heavy foot and brakes(it could be very dangerous for fun drive). But with the peugeot, oh mehn! it was a completely different experience, nothing to worry about because it could take the twist just like my Benz's only that unlike my Benz's, it has limited steering radius so you need to calculate the bend very well else you could overlap the lane but though it handles better than the Camry by far; no swiveling; no pendulum shocks at sudden brakes.

With all these long talk, mine is handling; If it handles well i'm in for it , if it doesn't i'm out of it. Game!!!

I need to be able to steer clear corners without losing my mind, and dodged certain pot hole at reasonable speed in our highways. I should be able to dogmatically brake abruptly at sudden stoppage to avoid accident and steer off without rolling over

Megatone:
Thanks a whole lot for the prompt response. You have really made my day. Would go to trinity 2moro 2 have dem changed. Please i would also like to join d wassap group. How do i go about it?..... cheers

No worries.. One last thing , for the coil, make sure you buy the same part no..If that is difficult , then pull it from the same engine as yours for compatibility sake and smooth performance else it might cause you hard starting all the way.

Meet the chairman Smart Choice to enroll you in the wassap

Megatone:
Please does anybody have an idea the cost of coil and nuzzle. Mine is bad and needs to be changed. Its a 2004 c200 kompressor. Please also add me on the star wassap group. 08099448205. Thanks

Usually i dont trust any new coil in our market, you either check for a good used ones(follow come) in this same market and that goes for about 5,000.00 naira depending on the market you are in or you order it abroad.
the nuzzle module too cost about 7,000.00 naira in this same market, you wouldnt find a new one , still a follow come too, thats the ones pull out of those so called belgium engine except you want to order as well.

beholddean:
@Eyop, auhanson and cne010
Many thanks for your comments and advice. I would get the extreme fuel treatment over the weekend. The suspension is airmatic o. I just hope its not gone. Thamks again for your help. Will sure take all your advice on board

You are welcome.

Just needed to throw a little more light to this to really make things clearer and well appreciated and understood what you are exactly doing.
Most Germans cars and high performance/premium vehicles are specifically stated in their user manual to use premium fuel, because their engine is tuned to work well with premium fuel.

Premium fuel in summary is fuel with higher octane number like say 90, 91 while the unleaded non premium fuel has about 80, 82 and then with some level of detergent greater than that of the non premium unleaded fuel. That dosent mean that all cars must use premium fuel except it is specifically stated by your manufacturer. Some cars does well with non premium fuel good example are the economically base models of the Jap cars. If your car doesn’t require premium fuel and you use it, you could have issues at the long run, unless you think that you really have some build up you actually have to clear before you start loosing power and some economy and even some build up in your catalytic converters injectors/throttle bodies and nuzzle. Else you could do well by buying some detergent additives to add to your fuel , that is if you could find them in our market.

The effect of the premium fuel on your cars performance could just be maybe ½ a sec acceleration faster at take off, though this may be insignificant but could be useful atimes in drag race and maybe stop start traffic etc else not really significance.

But if your engine was tune to run on premium unleaded fuel and you keep on running on non premium unleaded fuel , overtime you will have some build up that could slightly affect a lot of things ranging from you spark plugs , injectors , nuzzles, mufflers/catalytic converters as well as slightly reducing your return in economy and acceleration especially if you aren’t use to doing some highway driving to really blow off some build ups. When this build up mount overtime it could cause serious issues that unprofessional mechanics could even propose engine swap to you, or some very expensive repairs

Also, note that these may not be necessary because modern automobile has built in nock sensors that reads the vibration/rattles of you cylinder send signals to the ecu /ecm(engine control unit or module) to preignite the spark plugs to reduce the engine timing when the spark plugs fire to reduce/ prevent knocks but will only lose some power and level of economy. So it will hardly knock , don’t panic. If you check my earlier post you will see a youtube video that shows how an engine works:

The internal combustion of an automobile operate in four main strokes(the otto cycle) , be it 4 or 6 cylinder , the intake; strokes; compression; and the exhaust. The intake rushes in a mixture of air and fuel at the top as the piston moves to the bottom of the cylinder, then as the piston then moves up to the top of the cylinder it compresses the mixture of air and fuel and the spark plugs ignites creating some control explosion which forces the piston to move down again to the bottom of the cylinder to complete the stroke cycle as it pushes the the exhausted gas out of the cylinder to complete the final cylcle of the strokes for a new cycle to begin. As long as the engine works this way the operation is smooth, but sometimes the pressure of the piston will cause the air and gas mixture to ignite prematurely during the compression cycle (this is called preignition), creating smaller less powerful explosion which causes engine knock(vibrating rattle sound inside the engine). This little knocks sound under your hood, may not be bad with your engine, but it goes to tell you that your engine is not working efficiently as it should be, and so if not checked it may cause some damages, aside returning bad economy and lost of power with poor performance.

So in a country like ours where we hardly see or know where to buy premium fuel , we do the needful , extreme fuel treatment(XFT) or Magic fuel saver too, just to return or continue keeping our engine like new with increase performance.
Like to call it a day here, though this is in exhaustible.

I beg to differ that you included HONDA CRV to this list. It's one of the most expensive/unreliable SUV/Cross Over to maintain. I'm still wondering why Toyota Corrolla and Volkswagen Golf, Skoda , Toyota stalet and Mazda 323 isn't in the list?

ii'm back , i had to attain to my gen, thats niaja for you.

Such codes could point to several symptoms and components that if you may want to be thorough you could end up in very unnecessary expensive repairs, as fingers could be pointed to your: o2 sensors; a/f sensors; catalytic converters; spark plugs ; airfilters; even clogging valve tulips.

In a nut shell, bad fuel throws a lot of carbon into your engine reduces her life span clogged your muflers/catalytic converters making breathing difficult; messing with your spark plugs, injectors; and shortening your servicing intervals depending on the type of car you drive . Worst hits are the German cars and European cars that are meant to be driven on premium fuel.If these is allowed for too long your car would loose considerable amount of power and even horsepower if tested on a dyno. and eventually can even kill your engine in it worst case scenario, but never panic yet

The simplest solution to this is to find an extreme fuel treatment but harmless type like XFT and FUEL MAGIC, you could find them on Konga(i am not trying to promote any product or services here but offering experimented solution). I have done so with XFT and it did not only solved these but increase the horses as well as cleaning the spark plugs, the injector system/throttle body as well as lubricating your engine and lengthening her service interval, burning your fuel at very low temperature thereby helping the clogging of your catalytic converters/muflers. You could proof this by seeing no carbon on your exhaust tail if you dip your fingers there, also your spark plugs and throttle body to see how clean they would appear after prolong usage for like 3 weeks(remember to always double the first dose or 2 , 3 doses) . The cost is cancelled out in the economy it returns back to your car. So you are in essence not spending a dine but gaining from the entire process and maxing out your engine efficiency and the over all performance of your ride as well as the life span of your engine.

So what am i saying, don't debate on the numerous processes and components to handle but just do the treating of these over all components, you could change your spark plugs if it is in her final lifespan cycle , you may clean your air cleaner, but make sure you treat your fuel for at least 3 weeks and see if you would still get those codes again.

I hope you will follow this advice and give your testimony later

Many things could be involved in this but all boils down to one thing, fuel related issues. If you may want to get down into the technicalities of this you may take a rash decision out of complexity of the whole process. So I will advice that you take the simplest possible and priceless solution first of all, perhabs these might be just all that you needed to do. If the issues persist you can then go down to the technicality of it all else u might get confused.
Just find a good fuel treatment for your car constantly for 3 consecutive weeks religiously. Double the dose at first implementation. I will throw more light on this

Thank God the hose was the culprit here .

One last addition, in one old Benz 190, it was the steering pump seal that was licking; In another Benz c class w202 , it was a bad steering box; In one BMW e36, it was the hose terminating connectors leading from the steering pump.

beholddean:
Great Benz enthusiasts, I need your help. I drive a GL 450..Yesterday, while I was in traffic, the engine just stopped. I managed to restart the SUV after a couple of trials. However, the movement was not smooth. It kept stalling and would not rev. It was like it would stop again any minute. I managed to get it home sha. By that time, the check engine light had come on. I used my Launch scanner and it picked P2006 (intake manifold stuck open - bank 1) as well as P0300 (several cylinder misfires) .Has anybody had this issue before? Also, the SUV is kindda bouncy now. Not too bad but noticeable. My suspension is.suspect. Please share your experience and views with me. Its my first Benz and barely 3months old. Guess I got an unpleasant baptism with Benz.

Don't panic. This is no issue. Its a fuel system problem. If u we're using premium fuel or extreme fuel treatment, it wouldn't have happen in the first place. Just do a thorough cleaning/replacing of your plugs, clean up your throttle body, nuzzle etc and all will be well. After then make sure you use Xft/ premium fuel for your car to completely clear this and to avoid future occurrence.

Ikenna351:
Good morning house,
....
For most BVM5 boxes in modern Peugeots, TOTAL 75W-80 is recommended. But then, Peugeot said the oil in the box already is to be used for life, no need of changing it. But even if you are not comfortable with that claim or you observed a leakage and need to top up or change the fluid, then use TOTAL 75W-80. Its fully synthetic. But what we have in Nigeria are not fully synthetic: TOTAL 85W-90 & TOTAL 85W-140. The closest to the recommended fluid is the 85W-90. Of course, it won't harm the box if used, but the gear stick shifting will become hard and uncomfortable. You will need to apply pressure for the lever to go in a gear, unlike before you could shift with a finger or two...

Ikenna

Yes of course TOTAL 75w-80 is not only good for peugeot cars but also for Benz and BMW manaul shifting gearbox as well, it makes the shifting a lot easy and smoother than all the stuffs sold out there where people complain that these cars shifting are hard and uneasy. i thought i was the only one with this info...

Ikenna351:
Hey! I forgot to add.

The Peugeot 406 2001 model is a good choice among the early D9. Because you are sure you get one equipped with BSI unit. With that, you are sure the car will always be there waiting for you wherever you park it. Also, you will be sure no one will steal your Engine ECU since it will be useless outside the car. Unlike the Camry that will be increasing your high blood pressure every moment, whether you are driving it or its parked. A lot of people have parked theirs, came back and ran mad a little, because they could no longer see the cars they just parked some minutes or hours ago. Some would park their car in their house, wake up in the morning and found a stripped car. Lol!

Also, the EW10 engine, as you probably have known, is a hot cake in 406. The most selling 406 is one with EW10 manual. Of you find one today, the next day its gone. You may find one now, price it and leave to think about it. You come back an hour or 2 , only to find the car gone, sold! Dealers have even started deceiving prospecting buyers by selling EW7 to them as EW10 because majority can't differentiate EW10 from EW7, since they look alike. Such that even a clean Nigeria used EW10 manual transmission cost close to Tokunbo (foreign used). Unlike the I4 engine in the Camry that suffers cylinder head strip bolt issue that leads to destruction of the engine.

https://www.nairaland.com/1185689/toyota-camry-engine-stripped-head

The manual transmission you seek for in 406 automatically means no transmission wahala for the rest of the cars like. Worst case, you replace clutch component(s), if failed during the ownership. But with automatic transmission you find in the Camry, you will always be scared to travel with the car, because it may decide to give up in the journey or fail the month your pocket is dry. Lol!

Ask any Peugeot owner, not just 406, the last time he/she replaced his/her shock absorbers. Come back and tell us your findings. Even when they go bad, they don't make the cars bouncy, unlike the Camry that seems to bounce even when the shocks are still good.

Note, If you could get late 2001 D9 with 2 buttons remote control, that would be better. Because some 1999 -2001 model have 1 button remote, which you won't find as new in Nigeria. But the 2 buttons are available. If 1 button get damaged or lost, it means no more locking and unlocking doors with remote control, unless you want to go for aftermarket remote control. But it will lose the BSI way of unlocking and locking doors, e.g blinkers won't blink and inner lights won't lit for some secs when remote is operated. Besides, to install aftermarket remote control in 406, it means the Data wire will be tampered. And data wire is a place you won't like anyone to go to. Trust me!

If you decide to go for the D9, you must get PP2000 as well, as you are buying the car. Abuse is one thing a D9 hates (abuse of electrical or butchering of wires, etc).

To be honest, if you know you cannot afford not to abuse the car, then Peugeot 406 is not for you. You can go for the Camry the . Otherwise, it will deal with you mercilessly.


Cons of Peugeot 406.

- Be ready to face Airbag issue, usually caused by connectors behind the front seats. The scan result would always tell you "permanent fault: trigger 1, 2 or both". Bringing out the seat, cleaning the connectors or soldering the wires together, especially the yellow connector and putting everything back will surely cure the problem. On very few occasion, a failing COM2000 would give you that warning sign, but on rare cases, which has to do with loose connectors on the COMM2000.

- Peugeot 406 parts, especially the D9, are very pricey, both the genuine and fake parts.

- Complete timing belt kits are not available in Nigeria. You will only find the timing belt and water pump only. But the tensioner and idlers are not available as new. You will have to go online for that.

-etc

Ikenna

I think you deserve to be addressed as the Lord of peugeot, cos you have the database of peugeot stored in your head, at such i wouldn't fret at buying one knowing that you would always be there for me. One thing yet, the 406/407 coupe send waves signals down my spine, that's the one i would buy. I cant be afraid of peugeot as far as you are concerned.

abrahamolusoji:
Hi every one. Can anyone tell me where to replace my MB 202 (C230K) a/c 'module'. Cos my technician just ran a direct connection of the Fan such that when I start the car, the fan starts spinning automatically contrary to the initial factory settings... when asked why and if any implication he said 'no problem' and that the 'module' is bad that's why whenever the A/C comes on,the fan doesn't spin which results in hi temp...and that the module is not usually available here in Kaduna.
The thing is I'm nt comfortable with this reconnection and wouldn't be happy if anything goes wrong later. Pls ur suggestions!

I had wanted to treat this but couldnt post on nairaland then, not untill today..this module is found in our spare part market, but fairly use ones and it goes for about 5k. I bought mine there when i reconnected back my cooling system/ ac to factory. I have the circuit diagram for all the wire termination and connections, even if yours were messed up like mine.

lomomike:
The C63 507 is superb and very powerful But still the Audi RS5 still trumps it in beauty, watch Head2Head ignition Episode 51 presented by Jonny lieberman.

Well! beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. To me, overtime that Audi RS5 front grill will be no less than a masquerade..It's only beautiful at first sight , second third glance , you're already tired of it, but the C63 507 will still appeal for over a decade.

I want to be very objective here but not emotional,cause i love both brands. It's unfortunate that some judgement here are solely based on emotional dislike overtime for a particular brand, but not objectively.

The two cars are identical , mid size luxury sedan that drives the same like super cars, but behind the wheel they feel very different. 60 -0 mph braking at 106 ft.They both run around figure eight in 24.3 sec @ 0.83G(avg), but behind the wheel they feel very very different.

BMW rushes 0-60 mph acceleration in 3.7 sec and a 1/4Mile of 11.9 sec @ 122.2 MPH.

AMG is a bit faster . It hits 0-60 MPH Acceleration in 3.4 sec and a 1/4 mile of 11.5 sec @121.8MPH

The amg is relatively drama free unlike the M5, however she is cool calm comfy with but very suited for bad temper drives.

The M5 on the other hand is a crasy machine, very dramatic for the boys. Call it drivers car or what have you.. if you get it wrong it will spin, stunt, smoke and could do some doughnut as well more than the E63. The MB E63 model drivers neither bother about these, cause they thing it isn't a thing for the matured minds.

How many of us, would buy such expensive cars to do doughnut,spinning and smoking? How many times do you ever do that in a life time in a drivers machine?

Wouldn't you rather want to be safe at bends and brake savely at sudden/unforseen occurrence yet still remain save in a smooth comfy easy but non dragoneer car? E63 handles better when it comes to this.

In every measurable way, the M5 and E63 bahaves like super cars, yet they are really heavy sedans; The m5 weighs 4369 ibs with 575 hp & 500b-ft of torgue from a 4.4litre twin-turbo DOHC 32 valve v-8 engine, while

the e63 generate 577 hp with 590 b-ft of torgue from 5.5litre twin-turbo DOHC 32 -valave v8 engine , the difference is clear though.


Lets chose not to believe that but the tested dynos:

The Amg at the dyno wheel test, generated 541hp and 505ibs ft of torgue. While the BMW on the same dyno wheel test generated 508hp and 452 ibs ft of torgue. So what do you still say to that? Who is really more practical car?


The M5, though it has a twim clutch, but the steering handles a little too heavy for the kind of expensive car she is, unlike the benz with a single clutch but handles nicely light on the steering(even though it is actually heavier than the M5) and bulldozes around without causing any damage.E63 is a better car in this series. I prefer the Mercedes Benz E63 to the BMW M5.

Lomomike, Thanks for the rescue. I appreciate

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5ZXTDLIUXw

Which of these two monster do you prefer? Which one is a better car?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rY5oSik1eHs&spfreload=10

A must watch video:

1. Mecerdes Benz AMG 63 Engine production


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri_LFckaT7g


2. AMG 5.5-liter V8 Biturbo Engine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_mZkMf4YGs


3. Four Stroke Engine How it Works

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGj8OneMjek

Guys just save yourself the stress and just order your oil from Konga or Jumia, then you wouldnt bother about where to get 5w30 or sae40

Very ugly! i dnt think this is still "good thinking"

Oh mehn! When i feel like doing Torreto on the wheel , i can hit 3 from 1 and rev hard, then hit 5. if i sense stubborn overtaking or superior vehicle to mine and wanna make a mess of it, i'll kickdown to 3 with the baddest revving then slam it at 5 again,, boy u aint gonna catch up cos i'm doing ma thing on da steering. Sometimes i dont even care about 1 , i start with 2 on the highway after near deceleration to a halt, cos i hate 1 in some instances, the delay, the drag, hmmmm! I hadly ever stay in 1 for up to 3 secs, except i'm trap in a terrible holdup.

I dont think there's anything wrong as far as it can take the load without any hassle

Philadelphia:
So does that mean that my anticipated c230 kompressor is a no go?

..just hoping that one day we will find an after market kits of our BENZs, that will definitely be affordable just like our after market spare parts..I pray that one day we start finding them here in our regular "belgium" market

angels09:
OK...but how true is the xft claims? And source of purchase?

THE CLAIMS IS YOU TESTING IT PRECISELY AND TAKING PROPER DOCUMENTATION OF IT TO INFORM YOUR DECISION NOT MINDING WHAT ANYONE HAS TO SAY. THAT'S HOW I DID..SOMETIMES BECAUSE WHEN THINGS LIKE THIS WAORKS FOR ME I CONTINUE WITH IT AND DONT EVEN BOTHER ABOUT BRINGING IT UP, SINCE IT ISNT YET A RECOMMENDED PRACTICE BY BENZ OR OTHERS AS THE RESEARCHED PRODUCT IS JUST NEW IN THE MARKET BARELY 2 YRS OLD AND IT MAY TAKE DECADE FOR IT TO BE ENDORSED BY THE CAR MANUFACTURERS EXCEPT SOMEONE TAKES IT TO THEM. BUT BY THE TIME THESE WOULD HAVE BEEN DONE FOR ONE HAVE TO KNOWN, WE WOULD HAVE ALREADY DONE WITH IT AND FAKE ONES MAY START SPRANKING UP HERE AND THERE.

BECAUSE, I MAY NOT HAVE THE HARD TIME TO TRY TO PROVE TO OTHERS SINCE I'M USUALLY TOO BUSY WITH WORK, AND FOR THE FACT THAT OTHERS MAY EVEN CONDEMN IT FROM IMPULSE WITHOUT EVEN PROVING IT. SOMETHING PROMPTED ME TO BRING IT UP WHEN EYOP LAMENTED OF OCTANE BOOSTER, SO I THOUGHT IT WISE TO JUST SPILL THE BEANS FOR THOSE WHO HAVE WHAT IT TAKES IN THEIR NOSE BUT DO NOT REALLY KNOW THAT IT IS THERE. OR NEVER REALLY THOUGHT OF IT TO ALLEVIATE PEOPLE SUFFERING OF THESE FUEL ISSUES WITH BENZ BMW AND EUROPEAN CARS, THEIR MAJOR SETBACK... SO IF YOU CAN GET FUEL ISSUES RIGHT WITH BENZs AND BMWs, 90 PERCENT OF YOUR PROBLEM WITH THESE CARS IS SOLVED, THE REMAINING 10 PERCENT BEING ELCTRICAL/CIRCUITARY ISSUES..IF YOU ARE GROUNDED ON THIS(WHICH MANY ARE) , THEN YOU HAVE NOTHING TO FEAR WITH BENZ AND EUROPEAN CARS IN GENERAL.

SO, WHO WOULD NOW DO THE SACRFICE OF PROVING THE CLAIMS AND DOCUMENTING IT? THAT IS THE JOB FOR SOMEONE TO DO.

THE SOURCE OF PURCAHSE IS THAT YOU CAN DIRECTLY DO THE PURCHASE WITH THE NETWORK DISTRIBUTORS OR YOU BECOME ONE "KASKIA"

That is the brief description of the Turbo/superchargers installation and here maybe some youtube video to give some guide of these kind of installation:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p-b2wwrS4Q


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGdg2Fd2WQY

I dont think i can type this with phone as in whats App

Engine Management
The most important part of any turbo system this is what keeps engines alive for thousands of miles more even after running over 100000 miles.
The new movement in tuning is grass roots tuning, there are programs available that allow anyone to tune their car with the use of a home pc and a knowledge of programming.
Since much of this is above our head we leave it to the people who knows what they are doing and look up for someone locally to program it for you. They are never that far away, these services shop can handle it for you or you can order a program burned onto a chip that is roughly built for your setup.

Down Pipe
The end of the line of turbo parts this is simply where gases from the exhaust housing of the turbo escape into the exhaust system. This is hot rapidly expanding air and since you already have a turbo in the exhaust system to create back-pressure for your high rpm, small displacement engine, it is a good idea to set up a downpipe that allows for the air to escape and clear it's way for more air to come as soon as possible. Most applications use at least a 3 inch down pipe it is debatable as to what size exhaust is ideal and it mostly comes down to the application.
I like to use large downpipe and then as clear an exhaust after that point for the above mentioned facts.

Wastegate

There are two types of Wastegate, internal and external. Depending on your turbo will decide which one you need and which exhaust manifold you will need to get also. An internal wastegate is mounted as part of the turbo as a whole unit. An external wastegate is mounted on the exhaust manifold, and therefore must require a flange be welded to it.
Most factory turbo cars have turbos with internal wastegates.
You must know the wastegate pressure setting of your particular kind of car

Exhaust Manifold

There are so many different types of exhaust manifold out there. The cheapest option is to make your own, many companies offer kits to make a simple 'log' style manifold. You could buy a second hand exhaust manifold and modify it to fit your car, this required having access to an entire machine shop(or a very good welder), not something many people do.