₦airaland Forum

I reckon that your car has a Dual Mass flywheel that is now badly worn. The flywheel is part of your clutch system and its almost likely that your clutch plates and discs are worn too. The only way of checking these items is by removing the gearbox. Sorry.

Consortium: plz car doctor,my acura 1999 3.2 TL is gerking after a long speed and i slow down to accelerate again,it gerk and lift the engine up.could the ATF i used be the problem?

A diagnosis based on your descriptions cannot be conclusive. You need to be able to seperate engine performance from that of the gearbox to ascertain which of the two being responsible for what you just described. Apart from a faulty transmission, your engine could display these symptoms. If you are in abuja, pls kindly bring the car in for proper examination.

Fhemmmy: You are so right, just like there would be some white people too that would agree to buy a roll back but might be a ratio of 1:10,000 people, while Black (Nigerians would be 1:3 people) cos they wanna drive the best but cant afford it, so they would result in buying lemons

What has the colour of a man's skin got to do with the mileage of a car. You guys should get real pls.

earthrealm: Nigerians don't care about mileage...many are ignorant..n only look at the body/interior.......

And the sound of the engine also. Duhhhh

Marpol: Is there fake DW-1? Cos I see 2 variants in the market. The grey one and the green one.

Kindly clarify pls.

Yeah. You are correct about the colours and there is also a gold coloured bottle. Can't say if the ones you saw are fake but just be careful enough in examining the packaging.

[quote author=n.oxide]@car-doctor, my camry pencil light 4cyl was set to idle @ 2000rpm because the ac would make the car trip off when I slow down while driving

When the ac is on the car idles @ 800 - 1100rpm and I'm not comfortable with it. I fear it'll cause the car to overheat, or wear down the engine fast

What might be the problem?[/quote]Check your air flow meter. If its faulty it would cause the engine to idle at a very low speed eg 500 rpm which is not fast enough to handle ac operations. Try changing the air flow meter and see what happens.

[quote author=Cruise-z]car-doctor, do you have any of these two for sale?
DENSO SK20R11
NGK IFR6A11

I am based in Lagos.[/quote]Sorry bro I Don't sell plugs. We only repair cars here in abuja.

walexpal: Can i also use Honda ATF DW 1 in place of ATF Z 1?

ATF-DW1 is an improved z1. Yes you can use it if your honda is a 1998 to 2000 model but its a lot more expensive than ATF-z1. Use only ATF-DW1 on cars built from 2010 onwards.

If you own a Honda hybrid model, do not use any of these because they run on their own specialy designed hybrid ATF.

https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/honda-automatic-gearbox-problems


Please open this link for more info.

https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/honda-automatic-gearbox-problems

Please open this link for more info.

Harbb: Nice one car doctor. But one question:Which of the ATFs in the market do you recommend for Honda baby 2000?

ATF-Z1 is the best for your car. Quite expensive but does a better job than a lot of the aftermarket ones. Stay well away from Abro It may ruin your gearbox.

Follow this thread.

https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/honda-automatic-gearbox-problems

This thread is for Toyota and Honda cars.

Honda automatic gearbox issues have become a reoccuring decimal to most Honda automatic car owner. Slow take off, sluggish acceleration, lack of kick down, loss of drive while in motion, lack of gear change, aggressive gear changes, high engine revs without power in drive just to name a few.

From my observation and the complaints made by some of our customers, these problems usually start from a gearbox oil change that was recommended by the mechanic who then uses the wrong type of ATF oil for the transmission. Honda recommends their own formula ATF-z1 for their gearboxes manufactured between 1998 to 2009 and upgraded to the ATF-Dw1 for gearboxes manufactured from 2010 upwards. Toyota automatic transmission oils share similar ATF grades with the Hondas and can be bought as Toyota Type IV or the WS.

Using the wrong grade of ATF would almost certainly result in a failing transmission. Low grade ATF may not be able to handle the high temperature operations of a gearbox. Under very high temperatures, low grade oil loses its fluidity and may begin to boil causing loss of hydraulic functions by frothing or foaming.

Some remedies I have seen used by local mechanics is to further add engine oil to the gearbox in order to thicken the viscosity of the ATF. This in turn puts the pump under great stress as the thicker oil would require more effort from the pump in distributing the oil under high pressure as well as the oil filter which is usually embedded within the transmission gear train. (The removal and changing of all Honda transmission oil filter would require the removal of the gear box from the car and stripping down the gearbox but not necessarily so in most Toyotas)

The resulting consequence would be an imminent and extreme overheating of the transmission and components such as the friction plates and a rapid degradation of the wet clutch fibres hence the loss of drive, slipping clutch and rough gear changes.

Replacing the gearbox or a total overhaul by an expert would be the likely solution but before then, an inexperienced mechanic would Send you on a wild goose chase by suggesting the removal and servicing or outright replacement of shift solenoids on the outer casing of the gearbox. These solutions Don't last as its just a temporal remedy to a terminal issue.

I recommend that if you are having serious issues with your Toyota or Honda auto gearbox, ensure that the appropriate procedures are followed.

Automatic gearbox issues have become a reoccuring decimal to any automatic car owner. Slow take off, sluggish acceleration, lack of kick down, loss of drive while in motion, lack of gear change, aggressive gear changes, high engine revs without power in drive just to name a few.

From my observation and the complaints made by some of our customers, these problems usually start from a gearbox oil change that was recommended by the mechanic who then uses the wrong type of ATF oil for the transmission.

Most car manufacturers develop their own ATF formula for their cars.

Honda recommends their own formula ATF-z1 for their gearboxes manufactured between 1998 to 2009 and upgraded to the ATF-Dw1 for gearboxes manufactured from 2010 upwards.

Toyota uses the Type 4 ATF for their cars manufactured between1996 to 2007 and the Toyota WS ATF for ones manufactured between 2007 to present.

Most other car manufactures have also upgraded the type of ATF for their modern cars from the common Dexron 2 and 3 petroleum mineral blends.

Using the wrong grade of ATF would almost certainly result in a failing transmission. Low grade ATF may not be able to handle the extreme temperature operations of an auto gearbox. Under very high temperatures, low grade oil loses its viscosity and may begin to boil causing loss of hydraulic functions by frothing or foaming. With lubrication and cooling functions inhibited, electric solenoids and valves including fibres on the wet clutch plates begin to disintegrate with other terminal damages occuring.

Some remedies I have seen used by local mechanics is to further add Engine oil to the gearbox in order to increase the viscosity of the ATF. This in turn puts the pump under great stress as the thicker oil would require more effort from the pump in distributing the oil under high pressure as well as the oil filter which is usually embedded within the transmission gear train. (The removal and changing of all Honda transmission oil filter would require the removal of the gear box from the car and stripping down the gearbox)

The resulting consequence would be an imminent and extreme overheating of the transmission and components such as the friction plates and a rapid degradation of the wet clutch fibres hence the loss of drive, slipping clutch and rough gear changes.

Replacing the gearbox or a total overhaul by an expert would be the likely solution but before then, an inexperienced mechanic would Send you on a wild goose chase by suggesting the removal and servicing or outright replacement of shift solenoids on the outer casing of the gearbox. These solutions Don't last as its just a temporal remedy to a terminal issue.

We constantly repair these gearboxes and those of other makes to a very high standard with 99.9% success rate and we recommend that if you are having serious issues with your automatic gearbox, ensure that appropriate procedures are followed.



Car-Doctor.

rextimon: why is said that automatic cars are not to be pushed when they stop.

Where did you get that story from? You can push it out of the way but its not possible to push start it by hand. You may tow start it but will require you towing it at a speed of up to 50/ 60kmph.

[quote author=Res-pect]thank sir, i hope my choice of champion plugs are okay.[/quote]They may be ok but I would rather recommend NGk BP6ES.

[quote author=kumari_089]Please guys can u help me deduce this code for a Volvo s80 2006 model with engine size 2.5

Thanks[/quote]Pressure control solenoid c open circuit.

Its a transmission related issue and has nothing to do with your engine.

This code will normally come up when the transmission control module detects a malfunction within the set parameters for the solenoids operation.

It does not necessarily mean that the solenoid itself is faulty, it could also be that the oil pressure within the gearbox may not be sufficient and subsequently impeding the performance of the control solenoid c.

[quote author=Res-pect]@car_doctor, yesterday i changed my car spark plugs to new 6 champions plugs. I drive merc v boot 6 plugs engine sportline. The engine of the car goes if i accelalate esp if parked for 3 days. I was told to change the plugs and tune the engine higher to atleast 10 rpm. I did as i was told. But the problem now is that the car cannot acceralate properly. You have to press hard before it will move contrary to what it was. I confonted the mech man he said he merely tune the engine from inside. I'm confused. I dont know what to do next.[/quote]I have a strong feeling that your car may be suffering from clogged up injector nozzles and not nececesarily your plugs.

If you have been using a lot of injector cleaner in your fuel tank there is a possibility that the nozzle mouths of your injectors have been clogged up by residues from the injector cleaners.

Ask your mechanic to service your injector nozzles and also to check the fuel pressure from your fuel pump.

Another culprit may be dirty fuel filter. Ask him to check that also.

This is what the cylinder heads looked like after a thorough clean up and degreasing. Valve stem oil seals changed, valve seats grounded in and pressure tested before installation with new head gaskets.

Have a look at the pictures below and see what happened inside the engine of a Toyota Camry that was brought into my workshop.

The owner of this car was having a similar smoking engine problem like the op's and his mechanic suggested using several cans of engine oil treatment to help stop the smoke.

When the car almost packed up, he brought it round to my workshop and on further diagnosis we found out that the oil treatment had formed a terrible sludge in the engine that almost knocked it up. The real culprit was the valve stem oil seals which we changed and the car is perfect now.

Make sure you seek professional advice from the ones who know before entrusting your car to anyone.

obua: Only a compression test will confirm if the engine is weak

Compression tests alone is not enough to justify a weak engine. Bad oil scraper rings could cause engine smoke however, over filling the engine with oil beyond its capacity could cause internal pressure within the engine crank case to force oil into the cylinders.

Most mechanics in naija don't understand the basic technology in an internal combustion engine let alone talk of the maintenance procedures. Diagnosis of faults like the one you've mentioned should start by simply checking the oil level with the engine oil dipstick. That should explain the problem but the fraudulent ones will suggest that you change the engine so that they can charge you more for doing unnecessary work or just the simple fact that they haven't got a single clue apart from the one way street they wish to take you down on.

Oga, na when u reach market you go know the real price.

Very low mileage car with 44000 km on the clock. Bought brand new from Coscharis in 2008.

Electric windows
Automatic
Leather seats
CD player
Meticulously maintained
Drives like new

My wifes wedding present but new baby forces sale.

2.4 million. No offers please.

Contact me on 08162907680 / 08122711058

Car is located in Abuja.

These ones came out of a 2006 BMW 320i. All of them were completely different. Notice the one on the left which is a long reach plug that may end up damaging the piston crown or cylinder head. SMH

These ones came out of a Honda EOD. Wrong spark plugs with one of them completely different. The one on the right is a different make and specification.

Nothing wrong with constantly removing your car battery if your car is a 1978 Peugeot 504 or a Datsun 120Y.

On most modern cars, complex electronics with volatile components such as EProms and programmed modules may be affected if a short circuit is created.

Car batteries are not what you shoild be removing on a constant basis. My advice is to sort out the problem that makes you do that.

yyb14: what tyoe of spark plug to use for honda civic 2001 four cylinder

NGk ZFR61X-11 are the recommended OEM spark plugs for your car. May be a bit difficult getting hold of them.

The most likely cause will be burnt transmission fibres. Transmission needs to be removed and overhauled. Better still, get a replacement tranny.

Where is the car?

Is it only engine oils? What about brake fluids that damage your brake hydraulic componets in a flash?

Automatic transmission fluids that knock up your transmission leaving youwith an expensive tranny change.

Brake pads that wear down in under 5000 kilometers.

Tyres that blow out sending you into the bush.

Recycled parts and components that have long gone past their useability.

Headlamp bulbs that blow as soon as they are switched on.

Spark plugs that Don't spark.

The list goes on. God help us.

[quote author=coupe-boy]Professional gurus in the house, pls i am having a problem wit my honda accord 2000 ex 4cy. Its mixing oil and water in the coolant reservoir and the radiator. i changed the radiator recently with the top cylinder gasket and thinking its the culprit,but after i did the problem came back again making the car temperature to rise up. I dont know wat to do any longer. Pls i will be glad to hear from u guys..

Thanks..[color=#990000][/color][/quote]After a severe engine overheat, the cylinder head may get distorted or warped and would not lap properly when fitted back on the engine even with a new gasket.
This will cause the head gasket to fail again.

If you haven't sorted it out yet, I would recommend that you have the head skimmed or changed if badly damaged before fitting a new gasket.

FreddyH: I inspected a clean 2003 Nissan xterra car which was sent directly from the US and I am interested in buying this car but wondering if there are any common problems associated with this vehicle that I should be aware of?

By the way I am still looking for 1st grade 2002 - 2006 Toyota or Nissan SUVs within PHC. Budget 2m max.

Thanks for your helpful feedbacks.

Cracked exhaust manifolds on the v6, (very expensive to change as welding will only temporarily stop the problem).

Suspension, axle and brake components are also very expensive.

Noisy engine at high revs.

Customers that I have complain of very high fuel consumption.

Drives like a safari land rover.