₦airaland Forum

Since yesterday till today this thread hasn’t crossed the first page. Later they will say it’s communal clash meanwhile herdsmen we’re clearly sighted as the perpetrators.

But change the title to south east and UGM/IPOB and see people whose relatives were just slaughtered jump in to wail and gnash their teeth yes I’m talking about you omenka, mannabbqsquad and benuejosh

RIP to the dead

northbird:
I don't understand, you mean ALL Toyota cars.
I thought the gear oil to be used is engraved on the gear dipstick. T-IV or WS as the case applies.

The new branded Toyota gear ( color change in container ) oil still comes in two different variety. T-IV and WS

T-IV is older than WS, if you’re servicing a Toyota vehicle older than 03/04 then the T-IV is good for you but newer Toyota vehicles are recommended to use the WS fluid now. As other major vehicle manufacturers were refining their transmission fluids to be compatible with their newer vehicle gearbox systems Toyota didn’t slack hence the production of the WS fluid.

The WS shouldn’t be used by vehicles older than 03/04, those ones should use the T-IV/dextron 3 spec fluid and newer Toyota vehicles circa 2012 and above should not even touch the T- IV at all but the main issue is that in the market today most of these fluids on sale are complete fakes.

If you think it can’t be true then just go into the market to a shop that sells oils, request for their T-IV fluid (the one in the metal 4ltr can) and put it side by side to a fluid for another vehicle manufacturer (like maybe a Honda DW1 in the 4ltr metal can) and scrutinize their cans, covers and seals very well, you’d find out that the same company mass produced those containers, covers and seals.

It’s not possible for the same company to produce Honda and Toyota transmission fluids hence the reason why they are fakes. Since people have now realized Nigerians are waking up to using factory recommended oils for their vehicles (no more demand for abro or Holt) the unscrupulous ones among us have decided to start importing mass produced fakes to satisfy demand.

Even the WS have fakes now in the market, if you want to buy and point out the similarities in the packaging between different vehicle manufacturer fluids to the sellers they will bring out more varieties and start telling you “This one is Japan, this one is US, this one is Lexus, this one is Acura etc”. Honda and Toyota parts have the greatest amount of fakes in our markets today.

Only God and wisdom will help Nigerian vehicle owners this period I swear.

microlincoln:
Thanks for this great info..... Please what's the price idea and where can I get a correct one.

I don’t know the price but I just wanted to inform you that any Toyota ATF T-IV you see in the market today will likely be a FAKE because Toyota phased out that product at least more than 2 years ago if I’m not mistaken.

For those of you who have used it within the last year just know you probably bought palm oil

Drain it at your earliest convenience (or wait till your gearbox kpafuka final)

Entirely your call

quam9997:
Really?

as Dozieson had said, that your P0420 code does not necessarily mean your catalyst is bad.

It might be that your exhaust has a leak

It might be that your engine burns some oil which fouls the o2 sensors

Or maybe your o2 sensors are not behaving well for the brainbox to be happy

Find the underlying issue and fix it then that code will go away

microlincoln:
Please anyone have the price range for original Toyota ATF T-IV transmission fluid

For those of you using Toyota vehicles please be aware that the current factory recommended transmission fluid for your ride is no longer the ATF T-IV, it is now the ATF WS fluid.

ATF T-IV = conventional (dextron 3, ATF-Z1 etc spec)
ATF WS = synthetic (dextron 6, ATF-DW1 etc spec)

Be informed

samobaba4u:
Any idea on what it will cost?

The parking pin itself is relatively cheap, I’d say cheaper than any other sensor or mechanical item found in your gearbox. It sits in between the gears themselves so forget about repairing it by yourself.

The main koko is paying the workmanship fee for bringing the gearbox down, opening it up and replacing the pin itself before reinstalling everything back, not forgetting your transmission fluid which should be replaced too.

See, in the future try to be using your handbrake whenever you park your car and shut the engine off while putting it on Parking gear even if you’re in a filling station and refueling. Transmission park pins are not too sturdy and can actually break (like yours must have done) when someone or something applies little force against your vehicle either forwards or backwards while it’s in Park.

In the meantime keep using your handbrake while you save up for the fix. This predicament will teach you the valuable use of that your handbrake lever by fire by force and the longer you wait before the fix the better the habit of using your handbrake will be instilled in your psyche.

You will be a better, wiser and safer driver for it

samobaba4u:
Senior men and engineers in the house, make una come to my aid ó. My car is still moving when I put it on park. Na hand brake I dey take hold am like this. Please what could be the problem? Thanks

When you say still moving what do you mean? That’s the transmission is still pushing the vehicle or that the car still rolls when on a slope?

If it’s the first situation then follow IFSHR’s advice above but if it’s the other one then it’s because your parking pin in your gearbox has broken and you’d need to open it up to fix it (this mostly happens if you don’t use your handbrake at all while parking)

Op the only risk of fueling with the vehicle still running is that of a fire outbreak. Your vehicles fuel gauge SHOULD not malfunction because it’s being refueled while the engine is on.

Yes there will be a lag between the time the fuel is put in and when it starts to read on the gauge but it only happens when the fuel gauge is an ANALOG type, a DIGITAL gauge will read instantaneously.

Your gauge malfunctioning was just a sad coincidence that’s all

Omo the kind robberies wey dey happen for that arondizuogu towards okigwe road ehn. . .

osato45:
update today, I did a scan and below are the codes, I don't think it has any relationship with my A/T

Yes from the scan it looks like your transmission is still in good order.

But your brain box might be the issue here. Try to switch another one into your vehicle and go on a test drive before concluding on payment for it.

lightnlife:
I think Conner44 sells Bluetooth scanners.

quam9997 you can buy a good scanner from the contact below

GAZZUZZ:
Buy this tool to scan your car your self.

Costs ₦10,000.

https://www.nairaland.com/6885954/xtool-advance-ad10-auto-car

Arysexy:
They cut them into halves and put in container, the container arrives Anambra and d mini van is coupled and welded together.

Now answer my question. Can you drive this from Anambra to Lagos?

Yes it can be driven from Lagos to sokoto self. Kindly give me one reason why you think this particular kind of bus can not be driven on a road for 350 kilometers when simple okada drives from Lagos to east without any issues?

Arysexy:
How you want bring am to Lagos? U want make e catch fire for road? Abi na trailer goa carry am

How do you think it got to anambra from the port in Lagos in the first place?

adubam:
Boss na @20k

At that price what you bought was a brand new china, chi-chi, chinkolysis shocks, after 3 months of use it has given you your moneys worth.

Oem is life (good soup na money kee am)

dahflemzy:
Morning ,Hello bosses
I've been a ghost reader here but I need your help and suggestions.

my Camry 2007 works fine but I noticed that whenever I'm in motion and I slow down, if I want to accelerate back, it doesn't pick at once. I have to press like twice or thrice before it picks up.
I guessed it was d trans(just a guess) nd I checked the trans oil.
It was brown(not black nor pink nor purple) but at the normal mark.
Now, I've decided to change it.
So,
1. pls can it truly be the transmission oil.
2. How do I recognise fake and original Toyota WS fluid?

I'd really appreciate your kind and genuine response

It’s simply your fuel pump getting weak. Go and buy another new fuel pump and enjoy your car

Glithronix:
Bosses in the house, please help check this.
I want fill the radiator water now and I saw this build-up substance when I opened it.
Please what's this and what is the cause and implication?

Head gasket don japaa

Has the vehicle ever overheated in your hands before? Go and ask the owner about any overheating or head gasket change works he has done on the vehicle before.

Unless he wants to pin it on your head tomorrow

Or

Maybe the vehicle had a small radiator/water passage leak and the owner poured fufu inside to block it

HooxJnr:
Please sir is there a video you can point us to on YouTube or possibly the right key words to search. I learn better watching videos and can easily replicate what I see. Thanks

I don’t know how to get a video out for you but I can direct you here with little directions. To do this easily you’d have to bring down your gearbox but if you can’t then try the below steps:

Drain out all your gearbox fluid

Get two jacks

Use one to jack up your car at the front drivers wheel and the other one to jack up your gearbox from underneath the engine bay (place flat wood in between the jack and your gearbox)

Remove your drivers wheel

Remove the rubber sand guards/protectors you see there

Take off the black rubber housing covering your transmission range switch and remove the switch itself

Remove the top and bottom gearbox mounts (you’d have to take out your battery, battery tray and intake air filter housing to easily reach the top one)

Lower the jack holding the gearbox from underneath the vehicle so the engine drops down a bit to give you a little clearance

Now undo all the bolts holding the side gearbox housing (on the side where you removed the transmission range switch facing the drivers wheel) I have forgotten exactly how many bolts they are but when you’re in there you’d easily see them

you can also remove all your suspension components on that side like the hub, linkage, shock etc to make more space for you to work

Slide the gearbox cover out from underneath the vehicle to expose the interior part of your gearbox where all the other 3 solenoids are plugged in place by their own bolts)

Undo the bolts for each solenoid, unplug their switches and remove them from the gearbox

Use carb cleaner to blast them clean and make sure you focus on their filter screens/plunger

you would not be able to clean your main transmission filter because that one is located in the interior chamber of your gearbox where the fluid is being circulated proper, hence the initial recommendation to take down the entire gearbox

After you’re done replace all solenoids back in the exact order you removed them

Reinstall the gearbox housing cover and bolts as you removed them in the reverse order and close up your gearbox (remember to use a silicone gasket maker to ensure an airtight fit between metal surfaces)

Jack the gearbox back up and install the top and bottom mounts

Put back your battery tray, battery etc

Put your wheel back properly

Fill your gearbox with 3.5 ltrs of atf-dw1 Honda fluid and start your engine to observe for fluid leaks

Cycle through your gears from P to D1 and back 5 times (while holding your brake) to circulate the new fluid through the gearbox valve body

Take the car for a slow test drive and once it’s warmed up gun the throttle to make sure you engage all your gears up to the fifth

Hopefully your jerk would be fixed as well as every other issues you’re experiencing with your gearbox

note that this fix won’t work if your gearbox fibers/clutch packs are already fried due to prior driving with low/burnt/dirty/fake or unrecommended fluid

The type of solenoids you’re looking to clean is below. Focus on the hole on the top of that black protruding pipe to take out all the debris blocking its free flow passage.

osato45:
What i observed in my v6 2006 honda accord aka DC

1. It does a hard shift when the transmission is changing from gear 1 to 2 (like a foward jerk)

2. If the car is stationary at park and I put it in drive, I need to pedal down abit for it to start moving

3. My transmission oil leaks below, this has been going on for months

4. Yesterday I noticed that when the engine is decelerating and I step on the pedal to speed up, my rpm would go high without the car responding so, I have to slow down completely and start accelerating again

5. I have no check engine light on, neither is my D light blinking

What could be the issue?

Since you’ve had a slow leak for sometime on your gearbox then I’d assume you’ve been topping up the fluid with something, if you ran it low or you didn’t use the recommended type then it’s too bad.

From what I’ve understood from your symptoms it’s apparent that your transmission is slipping and if you do not have it overhauled asap it will give up on you sooner than later.

Try to get a scan of your gearbox system to know what’s up. That your D light isn’t blinking doesn’t mean there isn’t a stored temporary code in its system for you to see.

OooMeenKaaAA ! benuejooosshhhh manaababaQgrillaaAa

Oya run come and bury your brothers oh!

Leave igbos and Ipob for just one day and do the needful for your people until next time it happens

I pity the real benue people on nairaland. They have all lost their voices

deejy999:
I use Acura MDX 2008, i noticed my transmission jerks when i change from 'P' to 'D', also it gives a little nod/jerk when downshifting after you slow down. No fault codes related to transmission after scanning. Changed transmission oil(Original) ATF & all the engine & transmission seats, with complete shafts(both side) yet problem persist. Though the Car shifts very well. What could be the problem & solution.

Check your engine and gearbox mounts. One of them might be bad which is causing your issues

Chai sorry bro.

Heaven punish whoever made our government import and provide bad fuel for its citizens to buy with their hard earned money just to damage their property

If it’s a tear nylon new car from factory, then fine I’d advise you to truck it.

But if it’s a tokumbo with upwards of 50k miles on its odometer then I suggest you find someone who is very patient and capable to drive it to your destination for you.

Oyibo usually drive upwards of 20-30 miles to and from their places of work daily and their vehicles don’t catch fire, even here in Nigeria people travel with their own vehicles too without it exploding just because of a trip. Well, granted that shit happens sometimes but why do you feel you’d have the worst luck out of all the road users on that particular day you decided to use your vehicle to travel?

The issues I’d be really bothered about would be the security of the driver and your vehicle and not any maintenance oriented ones like tires, engine or gearbox (assuming they were all in top shape before the commencement of the trip)

Chai na wah oh felicicity na real clown I swear. He has come again with his comedy.

Which one be leaking HOIST again? lol see the way my chest is paining me from laughter here

leaking hoist

When your phone has a battery capacity of 6000mah and you are using a ‘chinko’ power bank of 10000mah (actually 4000mah) what do you think will happen?

It’s your phone that will be charging the power bank instead of the power bank to charge your phone lol

SeyiJayden:
Good morning mr corner, I’m currently experiencing this issue with my civic 08. Just want to be sure do I have to take down the gearbox as well or it’s a different location for the civic

It’s the same procedure for your civic. You can take down your gearbox to clean all the solenoids or you can do your transmission fluid change

BAZ001:
Hahaha
Mr corner44 peeing on boss head since 2020 but still licking boss Ass.

600 years for you …

luvinhubby:
That pix looks a bit IS suspicious

It’s definitely fake

Aboladey01:
I just get to know from the mechaninc now that the oil he drained from the gear had a burnt smell... Please what does that indicate please �

rubbish mechanic + Burnt oil + holt = KPAFUKA

Oga start saving for another gearbox

Namzy:
Lol very frustrating. No check engine light, no d light flashing, no transmission codes. Infact I'm sure I intentionally spoilt the transmission ring to get rid of the jerk by pouring in lucas transmission stop leak. Transmission packed up about a year later. I'm sure the transmission would still move if I'd taken the oil out but I just wanted a new transmission and went that route

Funny enough many people change their gearbox because of this small issue everyday

Namzy:
Lol I remember having this issues for years until I changed the transmission when other faults developed. I was the only one that knows how to "shift" gently to avoid the jerk

You get the jerk lol if you allow someone that doesn’t know how to drive it smoothly handle the car for a week all your engine and gearbox mounts go break because of that yeye jerking

Left for me I’d just pay small workmanship to bring down the gearbox and clean all the solenoids than doing the transmission fluid change 3 times.

Cleaning the solenoids gives a 100% solution to the problem (so far the mechanic is competent) but the transmission fluid change is a slow process and can be effective 70% of the time in curing the issue.

Phobos19:
Need Help!!!

Car: Honda Accord 2004 2.4L i4
Problem noticed: Car drives well on a free road. After getting stuck in traffic for some mins, hard shifting is noticed (having to get to RPM to shift to the next gear). Then there is a kickback when downshifting (taking the leg off throttle). Once I park by the road side, engine off and back on, it resets. Until the next traffic.
This mostly happens after a long drive

CEL is off
Car scanned: Codes- P0685, P0780, P1734 (PCM/ECM power relay circuit control malfunction, problem in shift control system and shift solenoid valves B and C stuck on respectively)

What's the possible solution to this?

Your shift solenoid B & C In directly in front of your gearbox under your battery tray. It’s the one with two wire plugs sticking into it. Remove it and clean it up then see if the issue gets better.

walestega:
Many thanks for the detailed explanation.

If I may ask, for the drain and fill, will it be done all at once or do I need to drive the car in between?

Drive it for at least 300kms in between making sure your get up to speeds where you’d engage fifth gear. You can drive it for a couple of days to get to this amount of required mileage between changes.