₦airaland Forum

9icetoo:
You don't need to step on your brakes to downshift in an automatic. From D to D3 or D2 can be done without stepping on the brakes but I do not advise you to do this in the event of a blow out. Just take your foot off the brakes accelerator and your car will slow down. Unless you are on a very steep incline and your car keeps gaining momentum, then you may downshift to D3 and subsequently D2. Mind the revs. Do not downshift when your revs are too high. You may lose control of the car, damage your engine and transmission and lose your engine braking effect.
modified.

This post really helped me today. Maybe even saved my life.

I was driving at 130kmph on a smooth street of highway and my rear passenger tyre burst.

What I heard was ‘PAO’ and the steering started jerking left and right but mainly right (towards the side of the damaged tyre).

I just took my foot off the accelerator, then made a mistake of switching to neutral but immediately recollected myself and switchback into drive and held the steering firmly till the car slowed down enough me to consciously steer the vehicle to the shoulder of the road.

But I found out that this tyre bursts is a 50-50 thing, if you’re speeding along with other cars shoulder to shoulder, on a downhill slope or trying to overtake you will be in soup. I was lucky I was alone on that road at that time.

I also notice that the heavier the vehicle the better it’s stability whenever there a burst tyre Emmergency. I might be wrong though because I’ve never experienced a front tyre bursting on me before.

Thanks for this post, you were heaven sent.

CelestialSmash:
Better engine, better interior, 4WD if you want, better ride quality, higher ground clearance.

For real?

2010 Camry V6 has a better engine than 2010 crosstour V6? Wow!

That’s debatable

AutoMoTech:
how long do you intend to use the car for?
i'm asking this because if you eventually decide to sell, the toyota normally commands more resale value compared to the honda.
however design wise, the honda beats the toyota hands down. fuel economy is similar but I think the toyota has a slightly better fuel economy tho.
what engine type are you considering? 4 ot 6 cylinder?
will you been doing city driving more or inter state?
have you done a critical analysis of mechanics around. which brand do they support more? NOTE: Competent auto shops o! not road side.

The 2010 accord V6 with the VCM engine actually has a better mpg rating than its V6 Camry counterpart of the same year.

maxiuc:
sienna should be among

Sienna 3.3L 3MZ-FE does not guzzle fuel.

smatt1711:
location

Festac Lagos

Contact me for your clean and solid laptop today

Fairly used laptop for sale

HP Elitebook
Intel Core i5 2.4Ghz
8 gig RAM
1 gig dedicated AMD Radeon GPU
500 gig Hard-drive capacity
WiFi, Bluetooth, HDMI, 3 USB ports, HD webcam
2.5 hrs Battery Backup power

SOLD

Clean laptop for a new owner

Fairly used laptop for sale

HP Elitebook
Intel Core i5 2.4Ghz
8 gig RAM
1 gig dedicated AMD Radeon GPU
500 gig Hard-drive capacity
WiFi, Bluetooth, HDMI, 3 USB ports, HD webcam
2.5 hrs Battery Backup power

SOLD

fx45:
It is best we expose the impostors and their monikers...

1. Helinues
2. Juliusmalema
3. Enugupikin
4. Cherrybae
5. Harlem2
6. Nonsowow
7. Nonsobaba
8. Sarrki

You're free to add to the list. We need to chase these demons out of here. Majority of them are masquerading as Yoruba posters

Yes see them, number 1 & 2 on your list are still very vocal here.

Okay good we need more evidence. I hope the people trying to doubt the deaths are watching

Don’t mind him. How can you scrap sars and the next day create swat ... yes we know most Nigerians are fools but take am jeje dey slap us for nyash

ahmstrng:
I had it scanned after our conversation. No error codes came up. That was about a week ago. While driving this morning. My engine light came on. I had it scanned.and i got this error. What do you think might have caused it and how can it be fixed

Well that code is self explanatory, your cat has an issue. It might be it or it’s sensor. You should either purchase a new one or get a spacer for it. Google what a catalyst spacer is and know that it’s an easy fix if another replacement cat seems expensive for you.

Your ride is fine. This code is not a problem to keep you awake. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

Op so after we pick one what will now happen?

myke92:
Congratulations.. The OP will send your 10% cut after he sells the vehicle.

And if he sends to me I will accept it. Now go ahead and pay for the car so we can all smile and be happy.

Op Corolla is an overpriced car in 9ja and everyone rushes to buy it. Some people buy even the one many years older than yours for millions and they stand by their decision. People buy the
9ja used model before yours for as high as N1.5mil and they feel happy.

Don’t let these dubious posters above make you sell your property anyhow, someone here will buy it and then spend another 200k to spray it, repair the a/c and do the upholstery and still use it for Uber/bolt.

Sell your ride for N900k Pere, no negotiation. You will see buyer. Don’t allow your financial wahala let these vermin prey upon you at such a vulnerable time.

Happy sales

ahmstrng:
Oh. I’ll go have it scanned in an hour or so.
I also noticed. Contrary to what i see online and what you said. My eco mode doesnt come on when im in a slow traffic. It only comes after I accelerate and release the pedal. When the rpm drops bellow 2. Thats when it comes on. I could be going from 40kmph to 100. And it wont come on. But as soon as I release the pedal and the rpm drops below 2. Even if the speed is still at 80kmph plus. It’ll display the eco more. Is that how its supposed to run?

Yes that’s how it’s supposed to work. So far as you’re not giving the car gas (accelerating) the ecu would go into eco mode.

ahmstrng:
Ok I’ll go there. Is it possible for the computer to display error codes without check engine light being on

Yes it is possible. In your cars ecu there’s both Automatic transmission, abs and srs codes plus temporary codes too that may or may not have been fixed/cleared properly. The scan will reveal all.

Some dubious auto mechanics and electrical technicians also disable or block the CEL light from illuminating too.

ahmstrng:
Exactly. I have no idea what he did in step 6. But thats basically how the cel went off. I’ll try and ask him what he did. But the funny thing is they dont want to talk. As per its something like a trade secret

Then go somewhere else and pay for ONLY a scan and bring any codes you see back here.

That’s the next step you’d take.

Honda CRV does 8.5-9 km per liter. If yours isn’t getting such an mpg in city driving then there’s an issue somewhere with your ride that has to be looked at.

ahmstrng:
I understand you now. But like i said in my second post. After installing the thermostat. The check engine light was still on. It was only after an electrician went under the car and taped some few things. It was only then the check engine light went off. Cause after scanning with the computer after i replaced the thermostat. It kept saying a sensor wasn’t present. Until the electrician taped something under the car. Thats when it went off. So what i asked if basically. Can i go back to electrician. And have him revert what he did. Cause the thermostat was present. And the check engine was on before he fixed taped something

Let me understand you clearly, are the below the steps you and the mechanic followed?

1. You said you first had the check engine light

2. Then you replaced the thermostat

3. Then the CEL was still on

4. Then you scanned and got codes for the sensor

5. Then mechanic replaced some sensors but didn’t send the CEL away

6. Then he went underneath the car and did something

7. Then the CEL went away

8. Then you took your car happily home

Okay good now for my question...

Did the mechanic scan the car again after step 6?

For what it’s worth Honda actually created the car to run with the VCM/eco mode active, so what you’re trying to do by asking me all these questions is to try and cancel your active VCM by deleting your thermostat WHICH IS 100% WRONG... don’t even think of it again.

I already told you, leave the thermostat in your engine and use your car that way with the VCM/eco mode active for as long as you own that car and follow the maintenance system I posted a few spots above so you can enjoy your car for as long as desired without any issues.

Going back to revert anything your electrician did might spell doom for the engine especially if you’re not sure what he did after step 6 above. Go back and ask him what he did to make your CEL go off first then we can know if it had anything to do with the VCM of your car.

ahmstrng:
I understand. Was that the effect they were trying to achieve before that made them remove the thermostat? Surprisingly enough With the absent thermostat i never faced any issue or is it in a long run damage?

No bro, tat was never the reason. Our 9ja kazeem don’t know what VCM even means self so they took out your thermostat ignorantly.

The damage will occur rapidly without your thermostat in the engine.

The short run could be from 3-5 years using 20W50 engine oil and the long run will be around 5-7 years using recommended fluids WITHOUT YOUR THERMOSTAT IN THE ENGINE.

So unless you plan to use your ride for only 3 - 5 years and sell off with engine palava then take out the thermostat and continue using it like that.

The damage on the J series VCM engine occurs because of UNEVEN ENGINE CYLINDER TEMPERATURES and only your thermostat can mitigate such an occurrence.

Choose your poison well

ahmstrng:
Is there any difference between vcm delete and removing the thermostat of the car. Excuse my ignorance. When i got the car. The thermostat was absent. The check engine light was always on cause of it. Because of that. The eco mode never comes on and the engine was always working at max capacity and yes. I feel it when I accelerate too. Its sharp. After advice from the forum. I got a thermostat to it. And the check engine cleared. Immediately it did my eco mode came back on and i noticed the car doesn’t accelerate as much as before anymore unless i step hard on the throttle. Could that be what you mean? And no. With the thermostat absent before. It doesnt over heat at all. I’ll love to hear your response on this

Oh nice. You’re lucky that only the absent thermostat caused your check engine light. You’re in luck bro.

Just leave the thermostat in the car and never take it out EVER AGAIN. it’s supposed to be in there.

Now that eco mode light is exactly what shows on your dash once your VCM is active, it come on and off erratically and causes your ride to be slow to throttle response when it’s on just to conserve energy. While the eco light is on half your cylinders have shut down and this is what causes rapid cylinder piston & rings wear on your engine (especially if you’re using 20W50 vegetable oil in your car).

For eco mode/VCM to engage your engine has to reach a certain proper temperature to activate and this temperature can only be reached when your thermostat is in play. Now what this VCM Muzzler does is to ‘trick’ your cars ecu/computer into believing your car is still running ~2 degrees centigrade lower than the recommended one for the car thereby not allowing the cars computer to activate the vehicles VCM functions at all.

Please never take out that thermostat ever again and instead purchase the VCM muzzler and install it in your engine. It’s pretty easy to do as a diy or by an auto electrician too.

So basically you should get a VCM muzzler to achieve the full potential of your engine without any downsides at all if you want steady power to your wheels without cause if any engine damage while still maintaining your car’s mpg.

ahmstrng:
Any proper guide or maintenance process suggestions for me. Accord 2010 v6

That’s a wonderful car that gives no issue (the 4cyl version sha) if it’s the V6 .... then you need to pop your hood and look at your engine.

Is it a VCM type? If it has Variable Cylinder Management technology then there’s a slight problem if you wish to keep that car for more than 5 years straight.

VCM is a technology created by Honda to minimize fuel consumption and improve its mpg but it comes with its own wahala.

How this VCM works is by shutting down some cylinders in the engine when when you’re either stopped at a red light or cruising lightly around town. It allows only half the cylinders to run when you’re slow and activated the remaining cylinders when you step on the accelerator to move faster. While this is a nice feature of the Honda J series V6 engine it can cause issues for the engine in the long run by allowing half of your engine run HOT and the other half running COLD most of the time in city stop and go traffic which will cause catastrophic damage to your engine after a few miles down the road.

In order to reduce wear and tear on your engine do the following religiously,

1. Only use synthetic oil and change before 5000 kilometers on your odometer

2. Change all your spark plugs at least once a year

3. If you really want to enjoy your car for decades without worrying about your engine knocking because of the VCM then you can invest in a ‘VCM DELETE’ (google vcm muzzler). This piece of equipment will disable the engines VCM feature and allow all your cylinders to be firing ast all times. This won’t affect your fuel consumption above ~1mpg but will maintain steady temperatures throughout your engine thereby bypassing all the issues that VCM may bring up in the future PLUS you’d immediately feel a better response in your card throttle actuation as you drive.

Read up on the links below for more insight. The Honda Odyssey and Pilot also use the same type of engine too. For me I’d still buy a Honda V6 VCM J-Series engine ride but I’d definitely disable its VCM functionality immediately I do so I can use it with peace of mind.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/is-the-vcm-on-honda-accord-v6s-a-problem-area.255602/

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/are-the-vcm-problems-corrected-in-generation-9-v6-ex-l-sedans.358690/

https://www.odyclub.com/threads/my-experience-with-vcm-and-engine-failure.272586/

sirleke:
I appreciate boss

Yes!got it a 9ja used
Was bought 2014 by the previous owner as toks.....former owner was using Q5000..


No sludge

Then follow the details outlined in my post to rejuvenate your engine and enjoy the full power of your I-VTEC yo!

Bammzzie:
House....my license has expired, pls how much is it if I want to renew my driver's license?

I just renewed mine at Coker aguda today. I first paid N6,350 online then printed the receipt and forms and headed to their office and paid an additional N4,000 for the drivers test and vehicle inspection and I was given a temporary license 2hrs later.

Total N6,350 + N4,000 = N10,350 for a 3 year renewal.

If you pay more than this for the same duration of the renewal then you’re being overcharged.

You see these two model of cars ...

Toyota Camry 1999-2002 & Toyota Corolla 1900-2007 ....

Dash me and I’d immediately use it to sow seed with a new ministry that springs up anywhere near my house

sirleke:
Good day house

I bought a Honda Accord 2004 just last month and serviced with Total quartz 5000 (20w50) exactly what the previous owner uses.


The recommended oil is 5w20 as inscribed on the cap.

Question: is it possible I ask my Kazeem to uncouple the engine, drain/flush the engine with whatsoever substance, recouple and then fill with the recommended engine oil please?

He's also not sure of the brand of transmission oil used as at last fill, what do I do if I need refill?


Thanks all

Did you get it as a 9ja used? Do you know the year it was imported? What oil the previous user(s) used?

Open the oil filler cap and look under it, is there sludge? Look into your engine’s valve through the oil hole, do you see sludge?

If you didn’t see any sludge in your engines top then you can try the recommended oil but a conventional type (Mobil 5w30 black cover) and new filter to first check for leaks and smoking ... drive for a while (3k kilometers) park overnight and in the morning check if the oil level dropped.

If there’s no drop in the oil level then you can decide to switch to the synthetic oil your engine recommends.

Remember to observe your oil level as you drive. It’s important. Also you can check your transmission oil too. If it’s still gauged smells okay and looks pinkish clear then leave it but if it seems dark and smells burnt then just purchase 3ltrs of the recommended DW1 transmission, drain 3 ltrs of your oil in the gear and replace with the new ones you bought. You can also get a new transmission filter too or clean out the old one along with the gear solenoids as you change the fluids.

Op Abeg if you’ve finished with the green and white give me the remaining yards.

I fit take am sow boxers

Na wao. 1.9M for Wetin naw

Flytime:
you're tripping how would that device run a graphic intensive game?what device?

It is what it is all iPhones from 6s upward will run this game smoothly without any lags at all whatsoever.

My phone has just 2gigs if ram but even if I open the game and go to another app and do other things (multitask) even if it’s for up to a day and I return to this game it must resume from the last frame where I left it. It never force quits or shuts down without you swiping it off from your open apps tab.

iPhone 6 & SE will still support ios14 which means these phones will still be receiving updates till at least September 2021

MegaPlayBoy:
Boss, what phone are you using

1st generation iPhone SE