₦airaland Forum

There are many causes. Let me give a few that I can remember.

Dirty throttle body
Large vacuum leak
Dirty MAF (mass air flow) sensor
Wrong timing
Faulty Crankshaft position sensor
faulty Idle stabilization valve
Faulty transmission torque converter lockup
Fuel pressure issue


Scan it to get a good clue.

Others will add...

From a technical angle, there are so many things that should be checked. Although trying to check all those might exhaust the patience of a seller. There are exceptional situations I have seen where seller is willing to leave the vehicle for extensive testing though...

If ATF is still pinkish/redish, don't change it yet.

sonshyne:
I got a foreign used toyota corolla 2003/2004 July last year, I only did normal engine service without any changes to the transmission. July this I discover that the ATF is a bit short so my mecho told me to buy Mobil 1litre ATF to top up after wich gear is still working fine but I want to ask gurus in the house at what interval does changing of ATF necesaary or based on my explanation above do I need to change/service the gear asap?

I will appreciate urgent response

I guess transmission is in limp mode and is picking from gear 3. Check with scan tool.

vinzita1:
Greetings

My car Toyota Camry 08 grunmble when accelerating from gear 1 to 2, Buts fade away as the gear increases.
Sometimes, while driving and about to make a stop and move again, it will delay about 2 to 3 secs before picking.

Pls I will appreciate whosever has experience it and solutions.

Thanks

It's a broad question because a lot of things can increase the fuel consumption of a car.

Check them out in the link below. You might be able to identify the areas that you are suspecting.

To make everything visible to you, raise the front of car, remove the tire, slack the three bolts holding the struts at the top slightly, try to shake/move/turn the strut and you will see how it adjusts. Tighten bolts at the desired position. This adjustment is meant to be done with tool that can read camber angle but in the absence of any, adjustment by visual inspection will be better than non.

franksam2009:
plzzzz bro how do I adjust camber on the three bolts on top shock absorbers, plzzz

Good car. Good engine. I like the DSG transmission especially.

Recommended engine oil MUST be used. VW TSI engines are expensive but very good and reliable when well maintained.

zaradina:
Good day house!!!
I’m new here tho I’m planning on getting a Volkswagen CC 2012. I’ll like to know the pros and cons coz I love the car way too much. Thanks in advance.

Good

llade:
It has been resolved thanks.

Check the radiator cover, both internal and external leakage

This might help give more details about what others have said

It's an easy fix if you can use a multimeter. All you need to do is trace 12v to the rack.

kennyfem:
Thanks, it only display the steering in red on d instrument cluster, can you help to solve it or connect me thanks.

Check power supply to electric power steering rack. High amp fuse, cable and connection. Check the electronics too.

kennyfem:
I recently raise my jetta 2007 automatic transmission 2.5L, immidiately I start the car and drive the steering was so stiff, please what could be the problem. Thanks

Check ATF fluid level first.

gogetter09:
Good afternoon
Audi A4. 2007 turbo Quattro...
I am having a gear box issue... anytime I select reverse, it takes a few seconds before it moves backwards with a jerk...and when I am driving on the highway sometimes all of a sudden the dashboard will highlight PRNDS all ON at the same, then I notice the rpm will be very high but won't move with the proportion of the speed... until I park and restart the car again it will normalize, sometimes it re-occur again during the same transit.

It has be scan and mechanic said its complain of gear selection 3 and 4... and he suggesting that I should keep using like that until it stops working... but I am worried cos I don't want it to breakdown on the highway

The mechanic checked the gearbox oil level , he said it okay and oil is not dirty.

How can I fix these issue cause

naphunlimited:
the issue has been resolved! the gear switch was the culprit. it was changed and the gear is as smooth as ever. thank you house for all your comments.

Congrats. Brake light switch sends one of the signals needed to deactivate the lock up clutch.

Or

You may be referring to neutral safety switch that was sending incorrect signal.

Congrats.

Good suggestions above already. It could also be a transmission lock-up clutch related fault.

Some transmission issues are fixable but technical know how is what is limited. It all depends on the fault of the transmission. But it is risky to buy a car with faulty automatic transmission unless you are prepared for the worst case.

Scientifically, there is element of truth in your submission.
Viscousity is one of the properties needed for better protection. Also, any oil will thin out more under higher conditions of temperature, load and shear stress but the synthetic oils thin out more slowly.

However, recent advancements have allowed the use of lower viscousity oils while still offering good protection.

Sometimes, when we consider viscousity, there is compromise between best protection and best fuel economy and this is where some manufacturers are silent and users are innocent.
In some vehicles, it is not out of place to upgrade to next higher viscousity grade because of high temperature, high speed and high load driving. In some other cars, it is okay to stick with manufacturer recommendation because of the engine's design and a good controlled cooling system.

very simple issue. A tech that can do good diagnosis will fix this easily.

TheNewAgeFarmer:
My Es 350 2007 doesn't engage when on REVERSE and the Drive wasn't smooth. This happened very close to my house and the car has been parked since yesterday. Gear oil has never been changed. Car is in Benin city and was bought in August. The issue started yesterday after more than one month of smooth driving. Any competent mech in Benin city should quote me!.

solenoid issue does not require the whole transmission replacement. Valve body is repairable many times too (when there are spares).

Scan the car. YOu may get a lead to the cause. Most importantly, locate a good technician.

If fault code is related to crankshaft/camshaft correlation, inspect timing chain for stretch/jumped tooth. I advice that you should not drive the car in this condition.
Regards.

Armed with this code, this is a problem that a good mechanic should be able to fix. I don't think it has anything to do with sensor in accelerator pedal area. Narrow fault resolution to mechanical timing, variable valve timing components and circuit.
You might be dealing with a stretched timing chain/jumped tooth issue. It could be other things too, especially those related to VVT.
Regards.

Let's see the scan result that shows higher fuel consumption at idle for further analysis. You might just mention the error code.

adesanyadotun:
I don't think so. Scan confirmed that the car takes more fuel at idle. It was scanned at idle and in motion .

Maybe the smart fuel Guage is confusing you.

Guage drops faster while the car is stationary because of very low miles per gallon. When the car is set in motion, you will notice that the Guage will rise or drop more slowly.

Your concern might be real though.

Kudos. Very valid points.
Next time, just go ahead to contribute without criticizing others.

Areaboy2:
Dont stress yourself with thermostat this, thermostat that.
If your thermostat has a problem, and is stuck closed, you will have over heating whether stationary or at speed.

I am fairly confident that your radiator is the problem.
At low load (low rev in traffic) the radiator works fine.
At higher load (higher rev on the move) radiator unable to keep up with the heat dissipation needed.

Firstly, check to confirm that your fan is blowing in the right direction.
It could just be blowing outwards and this counters/cancels the air rushing in while you are driving, thereby making the heat dissipation of the radiator insufficient. things will work fine when you are in traffic since the air from outside is low as you are on low speed.

Secondly, if fan is blowing correctly, proceed to wash your radiator inside out. make sure the fins are free of debris and it is not heavily rusted inside.
Replace with recommended coolant.

Lastly, you might want to check to make sure your radiator was not "changed" at some point during life of the car. maybe an underrated unit was installed.

As long as radiator is clean, coolant level is good and not losing fluid, water pump works fine, fans are blowing (in the right direction), thermostat not stuck closed, A car should not over heat.

ps: I'm not an expert, just using small common sense.

You may have a partially stuck open/closed thermostat.
Remove the thermostat. If the issue becomes solved, get a good thermostat and put there.

Your decision to go for aftermarket mod is good (get a quality one). You will never aim this present setup correctly because of wrong application of bulb as the bulb in it now has a different focal point from the one that is supposed to be there.

seunpayne:
Brightness isn’t the issue. The white bulbs are plenty bright. It just doesn’t point down. I’ve had a mechanic adjust it twice now and still nothing. Full beam brings in minimal improvements but it’s still poor overall.

I’ll do the alternator check this week. Last option may be to just change the whole bulb housing to an aftermarket mod. Saw some really nice ones on carparts last week.

That year's Camry doesn't have a bright low beam.

Remove the HID that you put there. Even though the low beam is projector type, it is designed to work with a filament bulb.

Check if your alternator outputs at least 13.6 volts when lights are on..

Check the age of the filament bulb that you used. The filament should be clear. Filament bulbs don't last very well before aging too.

Aim the headlight properly

You didn't state whether it's both low beam and high beam lights that are not bright.

I suggest that you state the approximate location in case there is any hybrid technician who might be ready to offer his service.

This man is very correct.
To answer your question directly in layman language, torque makes your car quicker (acceleration) and horsepower makes it faster (speed).

scottyoloye:
In simple words, torque tells you the amount of work an engine can perform while horsepower tells you how long it will take the engine to accomplice the task...torque= force x distance while power = Work done ÷ Time taken

Fluid loss/low fluid

Generally, Engineering is underpriced and underestimated in Nigeria.

It's likely an immobilizer/key security issue.
I advise that you consult a competent technician to scan and fix.