MrFinbarr: I've been having worries over the appearance of the CEL light on my dash. Scanned earlier, it brought out the codes, got cleared, driven for some days and scanned again and it returned these codes.
I need suggestions on how I can handle this issue, I already noticed an increase in my fuel consumption rate and I hate to see error light on my dashboard.
Any good electrician with proper tools and knowledge here in Owerri can indicate please. And if you know any who can tackle this issue once and for all, please kindly recommend. Thanks a lot.
Car is 2005 Camry V6
CC: Gazzuzz Nurey Heavenlybang Autologic
Etc...
Let's take a look again. Just noticed your temp at 73 deg Celsius. How long was the engine running before you scanned? With temp that low vehicle will not enter closed loop. Confirm you still have thermostat installed .
Replacing the Engine was a very good decision, there where too many small parts that would have been impossible to find locally if we didn't.
Process of preparing the drivetrain was like putting a puzzle together, it's pretty easy once you understand the dynamics of what parts to find where and how hoses pipes and wires should be routed.
Oil Drain and change was done on the ground, engine was cranked on the ground until oil light went off, indicating possible good oil pressure and supply. Didn't hear any unwanted sounds also. There's really no space at the back of this engine so no mistakes can be made with piping or harnesses.
Engine harness was rebuilt and all old missing and broken sockets were replaced.
Old O2 sensors were detected early and replaced before installing. If you are familiar with this engine, you would know there's little room for replacing O2 sensors with engine in bay. Also missing catalytic converter, but we got O2 spacers to solve problem.
The Turbo intercooler that came with new engine was Damaged, so old one had to be used .
Old Turbo intercooler backwashed and reused.
Engine harness cleaned, most visible metal parts that had been discoloured , wire brushed and repainted, fuel lines run, fuel pressure tested,
honsule: I got a Toyota Corolla 2005 Sport car of recent- May, 2021. it came with the "check light" on. I fixed some fuses that i discovered made the Dashboard light to trip off and also made the scanning tool not to power on initially. cleared the initial error code of Evap leak, and i discovered the check engine light went off. After driving for a whiled, I Scanned the car for error code and it displays DTC NOT FOUND. I have been driving the car for 2 days now without any check light. But out of curiosity i asked a mechanic to help me observe if the car has catalyst (Indomie), he said the car doesn't. My question is, can a scanner not detect a car without catalyst so as to display DTC ?
you have a catalyst in the exhaust manifold, but might not have one under the car .
Observer007: There's this age old debate about which driving practice is more or less fuel efficient between driving with one's windows down or using the car's air-conditioning.
From most online who've weighed in on this matter, the most convincing so far seems to be to drive with the air-conditioning ON after achieving certain speeds, say over 60km/h, and to take down the windows in stop-and-go traffic. That way petrol gets saved better.
Experienced drivers and car gurus in the house, what do you guys think about this? I'm always open to learning.
Etizz: Good morning to all car gurus, pls I observe my power steering oil keeps draining I have to buy ATF oil once every 2days and I just changed d power steering pump, I took the car to my my mechanic and he said something steering beam leaks and gave me two option,
1. To replace it totally or
2. Amend it by fixing the leakage,
My question is, is it safe to amend it? Secondly, when and how can my power steering pump knock or breakdown? I am hearing a sound from the power steering pump, does it mean the pump is bad? Cause the steering is still soft
The car is Toyota avensis 2004-5
With the right parts you can rebuild the steering rack. The right parts are not readily available. Rebuild will be poorly done.
The leak in your powersteering rack is causing an introduction of air pockets in the system. The air in the system is causing the noise.
sammymax: So I discovered that my landlord bypassed his meter because our light git spoilt and I was trying to fix it. This is the same man that you cannot owe light bill. I had a disagreement with him so he already gave me quit notice. So now that I know that all the money I have ever paid him has been pocketed I want to report him but my friend said it's not necessary that I am already leaving the house. I'm I totally wrong
Observer007: Noted. But by running a ground wire, do you mean a seperate wiring entirely? I'm just aiming to avoid anything that messes up the electrical system of the car or results in a negative effect.
The XV30 started production in 2001. I have seen ground wires in that particular model decay. Inspect the ground wires and replace if necessary.
Bluntguy: So this beautiful lady's life has been wasted just like that? May her spirit not rest in peace until her killer's life is also wasted. Don't RIP for now.
Observer007: MY ES300 ON ITS 4TH ALTERNATOR!! PLEASE HELP!!
Hello GAZZUZZ , I recently had to replace my alternator after I confirmed with my 'rewire' guy that the old one which came with the car was faulty as my battery was tested okay (still relatively new, under one year) but alternator was not charging at all.
My issue is that we have had to install exactly three (3) different tokunbo alternators, but as at the 2nd count, all had low charging voltage (ranging from 12.8v to 13.0v with max load -- a/c, full headlights, radio and wipers). This increases to about 13.4v with almost no load.
The current toks alternator (3rd) is slightly better, as the Ladipo supplier had to bring a Sienna VVTi spec alternator which he claims has a higher power rating compared to the previous two we'd installed so far.
However, after installing we checked and only got about 13.1v/13.2v with max load, but I had read somewhere that the ideal charging voltage should be around 13.8v with max load and over 14v without.
So at present the alternator light isn't coming up and it seems to work fine, but with the last testing result I am still not at ease, therefore, I'm not very confident using my a/c continuously because of the fear that the battery light may appear again, indicating an underperforming alternator.
I use the a/c intermittently and anytime I am to shut down the engine I always turn OFF a/c if it was ON, and revv the car a bit @ 2,000 rpm for 10 seconds to give the battery a good charge before turning off car.
Note that, they also checked the earthing (ground) system of the car and for leakages but didn't find any fault.
What possible solution for this problem please?
last 2 times I had alternator issues with Es300, solution was to run a new ground wire from alternator body to battery Negative.
For the explanation above, there is a correction .
Put voltmeter positive lead on battery positive Negative and negative on alternator body
DMechy: Is the battery mil light on while car is running?
13.5 -15v for a loaded system is great.
How did you do your load test?
Right way: - Keep all accessories on. - Raise RPM to 2 to 2.5 very important - Test the voltage at the battery terminals.
Things you should check. - Your alternator belt, is it well tensioned. - You already talked about having good grounds
Test this. * All accessories on, ac, wiper, radio, headlamps * Vehicle rpm steadied between 2 to 2.5 - Put voltmeter positive lead on battery positive and negative on alternator body.
lmm4real: Pls I need interpretation for this scanning fault Raised. It's a pugeot Boxer 2005.
The heater elements have a central relay that is currently not working. the relay its self could be bad, the fuse to relays might be bad. You need to check the circuit. Starting will be impossible in this situation without snuffing
Pressure regulator sensor either has wiring issues, or wrong part installed. Check pressure regulator harness, it is situated on the fuel rail with injectors .
Dahreformer2666: Please what did you mean by gradual switching sir ? And please did you have any ideal of what might be the cause of the car to feel like it when to stop but it won't please, I'm scared, I don't want the engine to damage again like the first time
Kindly repost, unable to make meaning of the sentence
MrEnigma: Good evening Gazzuzz, so my 05 Camry I got recently came with a green coloured coolant. I heard that Toyota Super Long Life coolant is red/pink in colour and it now has me worried as to what i should do. My mechanic wants me to get Abro Coolant (the green one) but as usual, I'd like to have a second opinion before going down that path.
Secondly, my manual doesn't say anything about where i should add my coolant (reservoir tank or radiator). I ask because my reservoir tank is running low whereas I've still got coolant in the radiator when opened.
Drain the green coolant and use Toyota long life coolant .
Fill up engine and set reservoir to mid point between high and low marks
Jidegravica: Good evening Gazzuzz n other Mercedes gurus. Please my 2012ML350 AC won’t come with normal controls on after a changed Condenser, we thought it was back stamp Choice, now the back stamp (correct option) has been fixed yet problem persists. All fuses/ sockets checked. When byepassed from the hood, it works normal. Please help ��
Very simple fix.
First of all, stop using non-Mercerdes techs to fix your vehicle.
Once the air-conditioning of a Mercedes 2004-date has been tampered with the system shuts down until it is reset with a high end scan too to ensure errors have been fixed before system restores functions.
Engine had a history of consistent oil changes at about 5000 mile intervals .
All was fine till the third user
Replacing the Engine was a very good decision, there where too many small parts that would have been impossible to find locally if we didn't.
Process of preparing the drivetrain was like putting a puzzle together, it's pretty easy once you understand the dynamics of what parts to find where and how hoses pipes and wires should be routed.
Oil Drain and change was done on the ground, engine was cranked on the ground until oil light went off, indicating possible good oil pressure and supply. Didn't hear any unwanted sounds also. There's really no space at the back of this engine so no mistakes can be made with piping or harnesses.
Engine harness was rebuilt and all old missing and broken sockets were replaced.
Old O2 sensors were detected early and replaced before installing. If you are familiar with this engine, you would know there's little room for replacing O2 sensors with engine in bay. Also missing catalytic converter, but we got O2 spacers to solve problem.
The Turbo intercooler that came with new engine was Damaged, so old one had to be used .
Old Turbo intercooler backwashed and reused.
Engine harness cleaned, most visible metal parts that had been discoloured , wire brushed and repainted, fuel lines run, fuel pressure tested,
Dahreformer2666: Okay, have been using the car for like 9 months now, even though I had to change half of the engine because of bad crankshaft and tilerod or so, but since I changed the engine have using total 20w_50 but my mechanical recently introduced me to Visco oil by fote, so have been using it but I'm kinda scared
Difficult to tell you what to do, switching back from mineral to synthetic oils have been known to cause undesirable results like smoking, and oil burn.
I will however suggest a gradual switch using Mobil super 5w40 . Oil changes at 3000miles.
@dmechy kindly open a thread with a suitable title to respond to vehicle issues. Most people do take suggestions here very seriously and might instantly carry them out without checking who posted.
Dahreformer2666: Good morning Gazzuzz, please what's the recommended engine oil to used for Kia optima Gdi 2013 ? I used to make use of total oil until my mechanic suggest the oil isn't so good, so I recently changed it to visco oil by forte oil
How long have you owned the vehicle? How long have you used total? What grade of total oil did you use .
Good afternoon Oga GAZZUZZ, i have a Camry 2004. When the car is at a stop the AC cools on low, but once taken to level 2 or 3 the ac refuses to cool until it the car is in motion.
Also the engine runs smoothly, but once ac is on the engine feels heavier and drags & the idle is unstable in stop position. Pls what could be responsible?
Car Talk › Re: I Need Help Urgently - 2005 Toyota Camry V6 by GAZZUZZ(m): 7:41am On May 12, 2021
