radautoworks: Being a specialist is a thing of the past. In most countries that are advanced in auto care, you can't just be a rewire, diagnosis or whatever (only exception is transmission rebuild). You have to be an all-rounder to be successful. If we have anything to say about it, Nigeria is also headed in this direction. We've turned down a lot of job applicants because they were one trick ponies.
FIRST, you need to learn all aspects of car repair, then you can choose to specialize. If not, you're leaving money on the table and will become obsolete since people want one-stop solutions.
Amaaf: Oga Gazzuz, The car is Toyota Matrix XR: It's having power steering issues. The power steering becomes very heavy when the car has worked for some time and it's hot. It is noticeable when you want to turn the steering at a stop. The steering will turn perfectly normally when cold.
I have changed the power steering pump, (the former makes a certain sound when step on gas pedal, and when you turn the steering completely and hold) The oil doesn't go down in the reservoir The serpentine belt didn't make any sound, but had been changed anyways The oil has been completely drained and refilled with Mobil ATF
Note: the current power steering pump is not new, it's used gotten from Ladipo. Please your advice.
Ever Har to weld the power steering pressure pipe?
JCFR: My car Honda Accord 2008 isn't shifting properly especially when am about to go into motion. Highway drive shift smooth but when I slow down and want to accelerate. It fails to move into the next gear and just revs until I pull to N and back to D (not all the time). I scanned it and it displayed "P0716 Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor (Range/Performance). What is wrong here?
The 2 times I came across that code, I replaced the gearbox jeje
Stanleyallen17: Thanks for your time. Can the engine oil I mentioned above cause this. When this car arrived Nigeria a look at under the oil cap indicates the engine is clean. But on changing the engine oil and at 3k miles use on the oil. The place changed color to dark brown. This makes me change the engine oil at 3600 miles. Thanks
Pennzoil is mineral oil and should be changed sooner if you calculate traffic
Stanleyallen17: I unplugged and checked for broken connectors but seen clean as seen in the picture. I heard to connect them back.
You have been able to rule out defective harness
P0015 TOYOTA Possible Causes What does this mean?
* Dirty Oil * Variable Valve Timing (VVT) circuit is open or shorted * Oil Control Valve (OCV) circuit is open or shorted * Faulty variable valve timing (VVT) * Faulty oil control valve (OCV) * Damaged ECM
Stanleyallen17: Good evening Gazzuzz I have a car with this code p0015. This causes hard starting by the user. Its a 2011 Toyota rav4 with a 2ar-fe engine. Please how can this problem be solved without the mechanic creating more problems for the car/owner.
Stanleyallen17: Car was brought as oyibo used august 2020. Was serviced with Pennzoil 5w20 on October 2020. On Feb. 2021 it was observed that the car doesn't start on the 1st attempt as usual, but only starts on 2nd attempt with no error code. This is usually observed when the car have been parked for 8 hrs or more. Fuel pump, nozzles and injector mouth were all tested okay and also cleaned. Denso sk20hr11 iridium spark plug and could switch were changed still no effect, Only to be scanned yesterday to see p0015 as a pending code. current odd of the car is 114958.
Stanleyallen17: Pennzoil High millage full synthetic 5w20.
Kindly take a picture of these 2 connections in the pic below . You will have to remove the plastic cover.
Ensure you lubricate the plastic cover when reinstaling it
Stanleyallen17: Thanks. I also forgot to add that a toks complete assembly of the fuel pump was brought and changed with that of the car yet the problem still persists. How long is the pressure hold supposed to last. Can a dirty crankshaft position sensor filter pull out p0015. Can I call you.
I have bought hundreds of used fuel pump assy that had bad fuel regulators .
Stanleyallen17: Car was brought as oyibo used august 2020. Was serviced with Pennzoil 5w20 on October 2020. On Feb. 2021 it was observed that the car doesn't start on the 1st attempt as usual, but only starts on 2nd attempt with no error code. This is usually observed when the car have been parked for 8 hrs or more. Fuel pump, nozzles and injector mouth were all tested okay and also cleaned. Denso sk20hr11 iridium spark plug and could switch were changed still no effect, Only to be scanned yesterday to see p0015 as a pending code. current odd of the car is 114958.
Stanleyallen17: Good evening Gazzuzz I have a car with this code p0015. This causes hard starting by the user. Its a 2011 Toyota rav4 with a 2ar-fe engine. Please how can this problem be solved without the mechanic creating more problems for the car/owner.
davit: Gazzuzz, I hail. Abeg I just got this tokunbo corolla. The AC only cools when I'm in motion. Some say may be it is low on freon. P0420 code also comes on with vsc off light flashing. The panel I talked to said the catalyst is still there. I need your advice. Thanks.
CITEH: Gazzuzz, good morning. Please my Lexus Es330 is having acceleration issues of recent. Sometimes it moves smoothly and fast, sometimes it lags. I will have to step fully on the gas before my car speeds a little.
My mechanic has changed fuel pump, it stopped for a few weeks then started again. He changed notch sensor, the problem still persists.
This is the mileage when it was driven from the port to the painter/panelbeater and finally shop for sale.
What are your thoughts?
Cc carguide.
Kingdemu
kwett
Mokelu
radautoworks: How about simply resurrecting the original thread instead of whitewashing lol. Now my husband has traveled I have time. Have you friends un-scrub the original thread. You want publicity from my name, un-scrub the original thread
Everyday is for the thief, one day is for the owner.
There will be no more attention given to this until the original thread is miraculously resurrected lol
Kingdemu: Pay no mind to that frustrated scammer called Radautoworks. In her smartness, that was her own diversionary tactic to make us deviate from pointing out her failure for scamming Crocif and not fixing a damn thing in his car.
Piyke: Only thing I see is that the Copart lot said 'not actual' regarding the mileage at US auction, meaning that copart could not guarantee against a rollback. That said, I see no evidence of Gazzuzz adjusting mileage in Nigeria.
Mokelu: Baba, u no suppose dey stress yourself... person way dey find to take deflect attention from their inability to successfully repair an ordinary 2008 MDX
spacofadan: Unfortunately you might get another 2 years in autos for sounding this dumb
radautoworks: Ah, my dear crocif. Still waiting for you to produce a single person who has met me or even spoken to me that says I disrespected them unlike your hero. Until you blatantly lied I was more than accommodating and courteous to you as I am to everyone- until they attack my integrity.
Sorry I wasn't able to do all your repairs for free. Glad your boy took it upon himself to finish the rest. You are the perfect customer for him and I wish you both a happy life
Now, for those who don't understand how the English language works, my point was why would he sell a 2007 acura mdx if he had spent only 400k for the car+200k on repairs for it? At 600k, it made more sense to keep the car and finish the repairs and not give up on it. To further help those who struggle with the English language, the sentence was immediately followed by "I would not recommend selling it". Then I realized the 400k he posted earlier was not the cost of the car and I corrected it but of course the Cartalk cabal can't resist violence and willfully misinterpreted it.
So there you go, these three paragraphs should give you kids another week's worth of circle jerks.
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Seunbukola187: Oga gazzuzz. Welldone here. Please I drive a Toyota corolla 2006 but each time I start my car in the morning and I match the gas pedal to move. It hesitates and sluggishly moves. It happens like twice and that's all. It then moves well. Till when I'm about leaving office again in the evening the same thing happens again. No check engine light, no rough idling and car moves well. Please help my ministry, kazeems are bringing different suggestions and I do t wann a start guess work. Thanks sir. Cc nurey all car gurus
Is it a lack of power (engine related) or flaring (transmission related)
obidevine: How long should I warm up my car before driving?
It largely depends on the age of your car, and whether or not you use fully synthetic oil. Such modern oils are very light (as in, low viscosity) , and do not take long to coat the engine components. My car is already 8 years old, but uses fully synthetic 0W20 oil, and the car manual says to give it ten seconds before driving away. This would be the same for most modern cars with similarly light oils.
Also, next time you turn your ignition to the ‘on’ position, before you start the engine, have a listen for the sounds the car makes. You may be able to hear a slight whirring sound - and this could be the sound of your fuel pump priming. It's important to let this happen before you start the engine. Give the car a few seconds (try counting to 5), before you start the engine. In my previous car, this sound was clearly audible, and when it stopped, I knew the pump was primed and ready to do its job. Getting into the car, and immediately starting the engine is neither good for the engine, nor the fuel pump. It can be a little harder to tell what's going on with keyless entry systems, they vary from car to car, but once the ignition is on, that fuel pump starts priming.
Perhaps most important of all though, is that you should not drive the car hard until the engine reaches operating temperature - most wear occurs when a car is driven too hard when the engine is cold.
So, switch the ignition on and wait maybe 5 seconds max, then start the engine and give it ten seconds. Don't leave the car running long before you pull away, but once you do, drive gently and accelerate smoothly until you see the needle on the temperature gauge rise a bit, and then you can start having a little more fun. This is far better than letting the car run for a minute or two before pulling away, and then flooring it!
If you have an older car, running on mineral, or heavier semi-synthetic oil, you might let the engine idle a little longer, but I still wouldn't wait much more then 30 seconds before driving gently away.