nurey: The toyota sienna bus was actually changed in 2001 model, the 1998 to 2000 had a 3.0L engine with 184hp.

The 2001 to 2003 had a 3.0L vvti with 210hp, front grill change and the improvement on the back lights making them more shinning.

With other minor improvements I guess

I should have said "largely unchanged" Wikipedia calls it mid-cycle refresh hence my choice of words : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Sienna

The Sienna was (edit: largely) unchanged from 1998 to 2002(3), see a review here http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/chevrolet-venture-vs-nissan-quest-mazda-mpv-toyota-sienna-chrysler-voyager-comparison-tests

fm7070:


Thanks so much for the advice. The first engine that came with the car was OK, but due to mechanic's stubbornness, the timing belt got broken, valves got bent and since I've used the engine very well for almost a year, I decided to buy another one so that I can also have some spare parts. Now, the second one started soaking plugs after about 5 months and it is obvious that the piston rings are worn out. I spoke to like 10 volvo specialists and they were all saying I should replace the engine and that if they ring the engine, they cannot give me any guarantee.
Let me point out that I used to travel with the car a lot because it doesn't fail and it's fast, the balancing is superb. I do at least 3000km/month. The only major challenge I ever have is this engine and am trying to weigh options so that I will not be beating about the bush.

If you love the car very much, then speak to others who use that vehicle or a trusted individual in your nearest spare parts market, they will show you the top dealers in quality engines for your type of vehicle. Then meet them and strike a deal, let the dealer know what you have passed through and know that nothing but grade 1 will satisfy you. If you have difficulty finding such a person, I might be able to leverage on my contacts to find one for you.

In the alternative, order that engine from the US, they will give you a certified low mileage engine.

I have once tried the engine rebuild thing in Nigeria. The engine will never be the same unless the repairman will follow the manufacturer engine rebuild manual and do such things as replace all the stretch bolts, torque the bolts to the right degree and some other seemingly minor requirements like replace the oil pump with new which will be found in the factory repair manual.

You will be entering dangerous uncharted territory by using an engine with such characteristics in your interstate trips, I tried and I got burnt, so I speak from experience.

You don't want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere.

I was ready to buy all the parts to rebuild my engine to factory specifications but I didn't find someone who could do it for me to such specifications, you may find someone but he will price his services way behind the cost of what they call Grade 1 Tokunbo or what it would cost you to buy and ship the same engine from the US.

So my candid advice, drop the 2 engines, do not sell them as scrap since you might need the parts and get a quality replacement engine for your own sake!!

One thing that can prolong the life of your aluminum engine is a proper coolant mixture not just water. Am sure there is a lot more you can do, please conduct the research and share with us

I would also add that for engines known to be prone to sludge, one should not attempt to do the whole 15,000 mile OCI or 25,000 mile OCI. I think 5,000 to 7,500 mile OCI might be the way to go. See also http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/TSB-engine-sludge-issues.pdf


I might also recommend an engine flush before moving from conventional to synthetic irrespective of whether the Synthetic is Amsoil as well as a filter replacement immediately after the flush

sooperrescue: They wont have engine trouble but the engine is gone. And the sludge there will be protecting the engine from failing. Flush out the sludge and that engine is gone.

Actually from my research not all engines are prone to sludge, and should one's engine be prone to sludge, I have learnt there is treatment for that. Once applied, delete the oil and the filter and replace with new and you are good to go.

Like I have said somewhere else on this forum, I haven't used Amsoil but I have interacted with its users, and the testimony appears to be good which means I might try it someday.

I have tried the Mobil1 0w-40 severally, currently doing the Forte Synth10000, will next use Mobil1 Extended Performance ( I have actually ordered it and its on its way to me as we speak) once am down with that I think I'll try Amsoil next.

Here is another testimony I came across:
In May of 2000...at 68,250 miles on my 99 Chevy Van...I switched from petroleum oil to Amsoil synthetic oil. I went from changing my oil every 5,000 miles to every 25,000 miles.

Since then...I've driven over 1.2 million miles changing my oil and filter every 25,000 miles. Estimated oil & fuel savings: Over $18,000.

When you switch to Amsoil...most of you will only have to change your oil and filter once a year.

The Signature Series oil is good for 25,000 miles or one year...which ever comes first.

For those of you that drive 40-50,000 miles a year...you're gonna love Amsoil. No more worrying about changing your oil 10 times a year.

And if you're away from home and you notice your oil needs changed...no need to worry.

You can drive home and have your oil changed at the dealership or if you're a do-it-your-selfer...like me...change it back at the garage.

I've driven over my "oil change" many times...and have proven Amsoil will not let your engine down.

Just be sure and check your engine oil level frequently.

I have included a link which treats the sludge issue you mention as it relates to Amsoil http://www.synpsg.com/Oil_Sludge_Problem.html

check out this review of the sienna http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/toyota-sienna-le-page-5. which model year are you considering the review is of the 2000 year model which nurey and lordmassac are commenting on

which particular product of Milemaster? I want to assume it has to be either the 5w - 20 or 5w - 30 which means its a synthetic blend which makes me strongly suspect its a Group III base oil. See proof that it is a blend at the link in the comment just above mine.

Given a choice between Synthetic and Synthetic blend, I would go Synthetic any day any time.

I have run conventional until my vehicle warned me that the oil wasn't protecting the engine, but i have used synthetic 2 or 3 times as long without issue. To be honest I haven't run a blend but everything I have read/experienced points to the superiority of synthetic and the need to be absolutely sure you are buying a full synthetic not a partial synthetic aka blend

If I were you I would be more comfortable with oils with guaranteed protection - Mobil1 Extended performance is guaranteed to 15,000 miles, Amsoil Synthetic Signature is guaranteed to either 15,000 miles or 25,000 miles depending on application

I haven't used a Denso Oil Filter but one cannot fault the quality of their manufacturing but I prefer long distance filters, see a discussion on filters here: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-parts-accessories/172057-best-oil-filter-3.html. I personally use Bosch DistancePlus although Mobil1 Extended Performance Oil Filters should be just as good

Extract from Mobil1 FAQ on the Extended Performance oil:

Why should I consider using Mobil 1™ Extended Performance?

Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a synthetic oil designed to keep your engine running like new even during today’s longer service intervals. With Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic motor oil, you get proven protection up to 15,000 miles, guaranteed. It’s our most advanced full synthetic formulation and offers outstanding all-around protection that outperforms our conventional oils, synthetic blends, and regular full-synthetic motor oils.


What is the difference between Mobil 1™ Extended Performance and Mobil 1?

Mobil 1 Extended Performance has an even more robust formula that has been proven in extensive field tests to help protect critical engine parts for 15,000 miles between oil changes. Guaranteed. We’ve selected specific synthetic components to deliver this outstanding level of performance.


Extract from Amsoil Synthetic Oil Page:

AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil delivers extraordinary lubrication in all types of automotive gasoline engines. By combining industry-premier synthetic technology with AMSOIL premium additives, Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil exceeds the higher performance demands of modern engines. It withstands the stress of higher horsepower, higher heat and complicated emissions control systems. Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is engineered to outperform competitive conventional and synthetic motor oils. It delivers long-lasting performance and protection.

AMSOIL, the leader in automotive synthetic lubrication, produced the world’s first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972. Trust the extensive experience of AMSOIL, the First in Synthetics®, to do the best job protecting your engine.

Extends Drain Intervals
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil can extend drain intervals far beyond those recommended for conventional oils. Its unique synthetic formulation and long-drain additive system are inherently stable to resist oxidation and neutralize acids over longer periods. Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to deliver the best possible engine protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain intervals. It reduces vehicle maintenance and waste oil disposal costs.

Oil Filter
Any brand of oil filter may be used with Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil. For maximum convenience, however, use an AMSOIL Ea® Oil Filter. Made of fully synthetic media with greater filtering efficiency and dirt-holding capacity than conventional filters, Ea Oil Filters are recommended for 25,000 miles/12 months or 15,000 miles/12 months, depending on application, which coincides with Signature Series' once-a-year drain interval. While Signature Series' 12-month service life remains intact if a non-Ea Oil Filter is used, the filter must be changed according to its manufacturer's recommendations.

Maximizes Fuel Economy
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to maximize energy efficiency for improved fuel economy. Unlike conventional oils, its uniform molecular structure helps it flow more freely and reduce friction between metal surfaces. Anti-friction additives are included to further improve energy efficiency.

Reduces Engine Wear
Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil provides outstanding anti-wear protection. It has excellent viscosity film strength to separate metal surfaces and robust anti-wear additives to further reduce wear in metal-to-metal contact regions for improved engine life.

Reduces Oil Consumption and Emissions
Volatility (burn-off) occurs when oil gets hot, causing high oil consumption and emissions. AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil exhibits an extremely low volatility rate; it controls volatility-related oil consumption and emissions.

Excels in Extreme Temperatures
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil resists thermal (heat) breakdown better than conventional oils. It is heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives to help prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean. And unlike conventional oils, Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil contains no wax, staying fluid in the coldest winter temperatures for easier starting, improved oil flow and reduced bearing wear.

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is excellent for use in all types of gasoline-fueled vehicles. It is recommended for all domestic and foreign vehicles requiring any of the listed performance specifications:

5W-30 (ASL): API SN (Resource Conserving), SM…; ILSAC GF-5, GF-4…; ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1; Ford WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C929-A; Chrysler MS-6395; GM dexos1™ (supersedes LL-A-025, 6094M and 4718M) Fortified with detergents that exceed dexos1™ sulfated ash specifications.

COMPATIBILITY
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is compatible with other conventional and synthetic motor oils. Mixing AMSOIL motor oils with other oils, however, will shorten the oil’s life expectancy and reduce the performance benefits. AMSOIL does not support extended drain intervals where oils have been mixed. Aftermarket oil additives are not recommended for use with AMSOIL synthetic motor oils.

SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
In all non-gasoline-fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer

(1) Engines operating under modified conditions (non-stock) are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturer.

(2) Mechanically sound engines are in good working condition and do not, for example, leak or consume excessive amounts of oil, are not worn out, do not overheat, do not leak antifreeze and have properly working emissions control systems. AMSOIL recommends repairing malfunctioning engines prior to the installation of AMSOIL synthetic oils.

(3) Personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles (16 km) at a time and not operating under severe service.

(4) Turbo/supercharged engines, commercial or fleet vehicles, excessive idling, vehicles with more than 100,000 miles without prior continuous use of AMSOIL motor oil, daily short-trip driving less than 10 miles (16 km), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving.

AMSOIL Ea® Full-Flow Oil Filters are designed for extended change intervals. They stop smaller particles, flow more oil and last longer than regular filters. For best performance, use AMSOIL Ea Full-Flow Oil Filters.

It is normal for vehicles to use some oil between oil changes. Check your oil regularly to ensure your oil remains at a safe level.


Note: I have heard good about Pennzoil Platinum and Royal Purple but I haven't spent the time to research either brand. The moral: there might be oils around that are as good as the two brands hughlighted above, e.g., Castrol but I am not competent to speak on them since I haven't done the time

bimbor:

@Idara is Milemaster a synthetic oil?, presently that is what I use for my recently acquired 2008 Toyota Camry. I use it along with the Denso OEM Filter.
Please can you shed more light on it?
Thanks

i have come across people who do oil change once a year or 25,000 miles, one of them says he is on his 6th oil change now multiply 25,000 by 6, you have 150,000 miles and he has never had engine trouble, he uses synthetic not conventional oil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASLQT-EA and a high performance/high mileage oil filter , so i would say it all depends on a number of factors

Seems it also has deceleration fuel cutoff and variable valve timing which aids in fuel economy, i haven't confirmed if this applies to all engines in the line up as well as gearing designed to maximize fuel economy

nurey: Toyota sienna is a very good car.
Let me give you a first hand review from someone who has been driving one for 3months.
My model year is 2000 and a CE model.
What I like about the CE over the LE or XLE is the bench seat it has against the captain seat of the LE or XLE which means 3 children will seat on it comfortably. But the LE and XLE have more gadgets and luxury than CE.

How to identify what model year you are driving or intend to buy.
1998-2000 the back light are coloured. The reverse light is coloured not white.
2001-2003 the reverse light is white not coloured.

Now the CE is a basic model so some do not have roof rack but some do have like mine.

If you are hoping to get a good gas milleage when in traffic forget it, I notice the car kinda consumes more fuel in holdup that is to be expected from a V6 engine but that car is powerful and overtaking and speeding would be very easy.

When on the express endeavor to windup because when you start exceeding speeds upto100km/h the wind speed getting inside makes the car wobbly. I use AC very often because I don't travel far with the car and the back passengers never complain of heat considering that only the front windows can be wind down.

The most basic problem with the car isthe door handles and boot handles expect to change them regularly because they are prone to damage whether carefully used or not to avoid quick damage I let all children enter to the front passenger seat and I never allow them to close or open the door I do it myself and the shock absorber at the back, they tend to give way when used frequently on bad roads, that is to be seen considering the sienna is a camry with high ground clearance not an SUV (jeep).
But that car is very heavy and if well maintained it will last and last and last.
LASTLY op it is a toyota sienna bus oo not car lol.
The car has a very good safety feature, my brother inlaw was driving his at an express when this okada rider who was deformed entered his front without warning my bro inlaw slammed the car on the culvert just to avoid the mad man, the car was a total write off but my bro inlaw survived without any major injuries.
Please if you are buying one from regions where it is snowy check for rust issues. Snow tends to make cars rust faster.

[/quote]

tsiriman: I have been using Mobil1 0W40 but I plan to change by my next oil change.

I am planning to order one of the 2 below for my 2008 honda accord but I haven't decided which one yet. I already have the Mobil1 extended performance filter.
My mileage is 140k.

Any advice on which I should go for?

5w - 20 more about fuel economy
5w - 30 more about engine protection than fuel economy
i'd go for the 5w - 30 extended performance, its as good as the 0w -40 if not better

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

I read in several places that the Group IV base oils (0w - 40 and 5w-30 extended performance belong here) are better than the Group III base oils (seems the ordinary Mobil 1 5w - 20/30 fall into this class, and if care is not taken even the Milemaster, not confirmed but it seems very likely)

Please go 5w - 30 Extended Performance.

If Trac where online I am sure he could throw more light on the Group III/Group IV base oils or you could do your own research

Called him, we are no less than 700km apart so his tool can't help. Gotten the factory service manual, what's left is to get the tool, seems this model is rare among nairalanders

I forgot to take the 3rd picture showing failure reading from the right rear tire

This baby was alright until a complete tire overhaul aka changing all the tires.

Since then, the dashboard is not receiving signals from the rear right tire, all the other tires provide signals to the dashboard.

As a result there are a couple of warning lights on the dashboard, how can this situation be fixed? Is it a DIY thing?

Thanks in advance

Going by both accounts above - this is the route i took the last time. I noticed ABC Transport took the same route but I don't know how to follow a vehicle whose fastest speed is 90km so I left them far far behind, but I stopped several times to ask for directions till I found myself on the express and took a left turn to face Asaba.

I did notice that the road is very new and good and tempting -once you leave the villages close to/around Uromi - but then some long stretches were so lonely - I mean for several kilometers it was just me or one or 2 to 5 cars heading towards Delta, very few were coming in the opposite direction. Which is what led to my enquiry as to safety.

My enquiry is more along the lines of - do robbers operate on that road OR are robbers known to operate on that route? Cause if they do or are known to do, then I am inclined to think the Benin Bye-Pass route is much better (as in safer) - at least should something bad happen - help can come one's way in 30 minutes or 1 hour since the route is heavily utilized.

Thanks so much Adonisgold and Bravolad for your comments

I need advise - one of these days I will need to do this trip by road again.

My question is - how safe is the route, especially the left turn somewhere close to or after Auchi that takes one straight to Agbor ( by the Benin-Agbor ExpressWay)?

Which is safer taking that route or going to Benin and taking the left turn by Ramat Junction straiight to Delta State?

I ask because I have taken the former route once - and it was a very lonely and quiet route - Any bad experiences on that route? Or am I safer with the second route?

Thanks in advance!

Extract from Denso Installation Guide:

"The fuel pump must be used with a DENSO or OE comparable new pump strainer for the
warranty to apply. In the event that DENSO does not offer the pump strainer for a particular
application, an OE pump strainer from a dealer or an OE comparable competitor pump strainer
must be used.

In addition, it is recommended to replace all other fuel filters in the vehicle’s fuel system. Follow
the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended procedures and all vehicle manufacturer’s safety
precautions to replace these fuel filters."

igomen: Thanks all for your insightful input. I have changed the fuel pump twice; once with tokunbo and the other with brand new, yet problem persist.
Someone mentioned comprehensive scanning, I have used different scanning machines on this car yet I keep getting only fault codes for the ABS which I know is bad. Can anybody recommend a good mazda mechanic and gear master. I have a feeling the problem is not that complicated, the guys that have worked on it so far are missing something.

Please note the order - i suggested do a fuel filter delete and replace BEFORE a fuel pump change!

Since you already have a fuel pump, then do a fuel filter change ASAP.

reason is that if you put a brand new filter into an old/worn out filter, you will shorten its lifespan and overwork it.

Another problem could be - did you replace with the correct fuel pump? do you have the part number?

But please do the fuel filter replace ASAP to save whatever is left of the life of that fuel pump assuming of course that you got the right one!

I doubt you will get codes on this vehicle for a bad fuel filter or fuel pump!

I have attached a picture indicating the two filters that must be changed at the point of installation of a new fuel pump

GAZZUZZ: Open up your fuel pump case, its either you have a bad fuel pump or a blocked clogged filter or both.

Spot on!

Change the fuel filter ASAP! if you still encounter same symptoms, replace the fuel pump.

Have you ever replaced the fuel pump with tokunbo? Bad move! They don't last. You can go through up to 3 or 4 changes in 1 year which is enough money to have bought one brand new one. Replace with brand new fuel pump.

please send me an email or a PM and i will send you comprehensive factory manual diagnostic steps for all the codes you listed. my email is

CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner available @ N3,200.00/bottle. Call 0708 684 8574