₦airaland Forum

MovingTrain: Good evening house. Guess I am so lucky to find this thread. My Peugeot 306 (don't know the year) is giving me headaches. It gives off black smoke from the exhaust and puts a constant drain on my pocket viz fueling.
My mechanic has tried all he believes is his possible best (like changing what he called the stepper motor, servicing some of the fuel burning compartments, cleaning the plugs and injector nozzles and its likes) to no avail. At some point he claimed it might be a problem from the oxygen sensor but later on changed to say my said vehicle doesn't have an oxygen sensor. Right now, he has given up on his blind working skills and said I should bring the car tomorrow so we can go diagnose it somewhere.
Please Ikenna and the house in general, I need help with my beloved car. What could be its problem(s). Atleast I need to have an idea so I can know what to look forward to tomorrow during the scan.
Thanks in anticipation.

Is your engine fuel carburetted or injection system?

Ikenna.

owoblo345: Hey guys, anyone know where i can get cabin (pollen) filter for my ew12 407 at Abuja and how much? Apparently some clown removed it before i bought the car. There's an empty space where the filter is supposed to be. By the way, is there any short/long term effect caused by the absence of the filter? Thanks...

Dirts will clogged your evaporator and the cooling will drastically reduced.

Have you tried Gudu market?

I pulled out mine last month, thoroughly cleaned it and put it back.

Note that clogged evaporator fins may at some point cause gas leak on the evaporator. And the only to get to evaporator is by pulling down the dashboard, since the evaporator is under the dashboad. And trust me, you do not want those clowns to pull out your dashboard.

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: Thanks Ikenna for replying me.

I will do that.
I just got PP2000 also.
Thanks again.

Have you installed the Diagbox?

Ikenna.

adanny01: I did a research on wikipedia when he told me which i confirmed the name throw out bearing.

I quickly recollected that before i refill the gear box, there used to be a sound at the same location this one occured. The sound can only be heard when the car is idling. If i so much as touch the clutch the sound will fade and resume if i take off foot from the clutch.

When he told me, i knew the part producing that sound finally gave up.

On the transmission oils, i just check Total's website and have seen they have GL 5 of both 75-90w and 80-90w. I shall go out today in search for it locally. If i get i will require 4litres of 75-90w and 3 litres of 80-90w.

Will use 75-90w for gear box and trasfer case which u said takes 2.2 and 1.4 litres making 3.6litres. Then the axles will both get 80-90w 2.8litres.

I didnt see transmission oils on mobil's site but i will search for it too.

If the issue was throwout bearing, the mechanic should would have seen it when he separated the transmission from the engine; if the throwout bearing was the culprit, the gears wouldnt have engaged in the first place; if throwout bearing was the culprit it would have damaged your pressure plate, which you said looked ok when your mechanic pulled out the pressure plate and clutch disc/plate.

You said you were hearing a noise when engine would be idling, but the noise would stop as soon as you depressed the clutch pedal. The cause of that noise was the input spline, the one that enters into the clutch pressure plate & clutch plate, from the gearbox. It could possibly be the culprit of the present gearbox issue. Its changeable, but the gearbox has to be opened to do so. In Nigeria, its called "High Gear".

I dont see why its difficult for your mechanic to isolate where the noise is coming from. You can do it yourself. Jack up one of the rear wheels (without removing the tyre). Engage the gear, either 1st or 2nd gear). Have someone rotate the jacked up wheel (with pressure). Go under the car. While the wheel is been rotated, you should be hearing cranking sound from the component that is the culprit is hiding. If its from the rear differential you will know. If its the gearbox, you will know as well.

Note that on normal circumstances, the wheel shouldnt rotate when the gear is engaged and all other wheels (AWD,4WD & RWD)are on ground. But because the transmission is no longer driving the wheels, you should hear the noise of what is preventing the wheels to move.

All I stated above is how to troubleshoot Peugeot manual transmission.

Ikenna

CHIMCO: My brother,chrysler looks elegant and style but i spent upto 2 months with a friend of mine at Alaoji at Aba Abia State to change new chrysler engine to a Toyota engine because of heavy OVERHEATING. After the conversion which looks untidy and costly. The car is moving well with the toyota engine now.

This is the worst car repair i have ever read on Nairaland. So swapping in a Toyota engine in a Chrysler car simply because the Chrysler engine was overheating, was the solution to fixing an overheating issue in a car? So when the Toyota engine starts to overheat too, which brand of car engine would the mechanic swamp in now? Honda engine?

What is so difficult in troubleshooting an overheating issue? When they have abused the cooling system by removing the thermostat, bypassing factory fan connection to spin constantly, using only water and not bleeding the system after they have meted out their abuse on the system. Why wouldnt the engine overheat? Now whose fault it is? Chrysler?

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: @ everybody,

I once posted here about immobilizing my car 406, EW10 series, and while reading the previous posts as suggested by Ik, I saw the part that dealt with bringing the car back and noticed I needed to work with the drivers side Windows rolled down but one problem is my car is showing ECONOMY MODE ACTIVE which has stopped all gadgets from working.

Can the PP2000 help me, Is it safe to invite an auto-electrician (called rewire here in Lagos) to connect the window directly or can someone guide me on the appropriate step to take. I enjoy DIY and ready for it.

Thanks.

To set the ECONOMY MODE ACTIVE off, disconnect the battery head (negative or both) and leave it for more than 1 hour. It should set the economy mode off when battery is reconnected.


Again, find below, the procedure on how to reset BSI unit:



1. Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment are switched off.

2. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition.

3. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery (starting with the negative terminal) and wait 15 seconds.

4. Reconnect the vehicle battery (starting with the positive terminal), wait a further 10 seconds (do not open the doors.).

5. Switch on the side lights through the driver's window.

6. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality.

7. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds.

8. Remove key, open & close door, test central locking system.

9. Start the engine and complete the system's check.

Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items.



Ikenna.

[quote author=D'Flash]Hi Ikenna, I just bought a tokunbo Peugeot 607 and realised I had made the biggest mistake of my life. It complains of ESR/ASP malfunction (I don't knw what that means), cooling system malfunction, now I am trying to open the bonnet and it is not responding. Pls help.[/quote]Lol! You are very funny. I mean, seriously, are you giving up on the car because of the above minor issues? Anyway, dont mind me jare!

ASP? You mean ASR (Anti Slip Regulation)? ESP/ASR malfunction is simply a brake, ABS, bad tyre, bad wheel or a traction control issue. Most times, a faulty ABS wheel sensor, especially the rear wheels would give that warning on the display screen. Even when you tyre becomes too bad or you mount a wrong size tyre, the warning would come up. The only way you can tell which of them causing it is by scanning the car with PP2000. PP2000 will show to you the culprit. If it points at wheel sensors, sometimes bringing them out, cleaning them and putting mounting them back usually clears the fault.

Opening of bonnect is mechanical, not electrically operated. So, if the cable has broken or the bonnet catcher needs to be lubricated, i dont see a big deal about it.

As for the AC, PP2000 will tell you what the problem is, whether its BSI related or other faulty components as the cause.

Am feeling sleepy. Goodnight.

Ikenna.

Since i got my D9, the Speedometer has been acting up. Most days, it would refuse to work. And whenever it stopped working, the mileage and trip meter would stop counting, including the mpg check on the multi function display screen.

So last Saturday, 01/06/2013, after changing the engine oil (refilled with Quartz 9000,i.e. 5W-40), i decided to tackle the speedometer issue, which i strongly believed was been caused by Tranducer on the Gearbox. I couldnt get to the sensor from the engine bay, since the Intake Manifold was blocking it. So I removed the Front left Tyre/wheel (Driver's side). From there, i could see the transducer, also known as speed sensor. I stretched my hand from there and loosed the 6mm Allen bolt holding the sensor on the gearbox. As soon as it came out, the gearoil started flowing out from that opening. I had to quickly pushed the transducer back into the gearbox. Anyway, since i had the part number, i went to a Peugeot shop nearby and bought one (new). There, I saw two brands. One was fake, which sold at 2k. The other brand, a popular quality brand, Valeo, cost 5k. So I bought the Valeo one.

As soon as i replaced the transducer, the speedometer started working perfectly. Before, the speedo wouldnt move when car would be reversing. But now, the speedo also works as car is reversing. The odometer, tripmeter and mpg check are all working perfectly now too.

So, if your D9 is having a similar speedo issue had, you now know the culprit. But if yours is D8, it could the interface box behind the Glove box. In D9 (those with Multiplexed systems), the transducer on the gearbox signals to BSI unit. Then the BSI interprets the signal from the transducer and controls the speedometer, odometer, tripmeter and mpg check, depending on the speed the car is doing. So non-functioning of speedo in D9 means faulty Transducer.

Th D8 lacks BSI unit (Non-Multiplexed). So the interface box behind the glove box receives the signals from the transducer on the gearbox, interprets the signal and then controls the speedometer and the variable Power steering (for V6 only). So in D8, a malfunctioning speedometer could be caused by a faulty Transducer or Interface Box. But for D9, only a faulty Transducer would cause that.

Note that in D8, the interface box controls both speedometer and Variable Power steering (Speed Sensitive PAS) for V6 only. In D9, the transducer signals to both BSI unit (for controlling speedo) and Servotronic relay which also controls Variable Power steering in D9 V6. The Servotronic relay is also behind the Glove box and its boldly labelled "Servotronic". If PAS in D9 V6 suddenly becomes hard to steer while engine is running and speedometer working, it means that relay is faulty.

For 406 other than V6, they have Unvariable Power Assisted Steering (Non speed sensitive). Their PAS is electrically controlled by RPM Sensor, i.e, Cranckshaft Position Sensor. But Peugeot calls it RPM sensor. The RPM sensor controls both Tachometer and PAS. As rpm increases, so the PAS becomes heavier to steer. Unlike the V6 PAS and speedometer which are controlled by Transducer,i.e, as the speedometer or car speed increases, the steering wheel becomes heavier to steer for better handling on highspeed, hence, the Speed Sensitive PAS.

Before I forget, D9 Transducer is different from D8 Transducer. D9 Transducer has 3-wire socket, while the D8 Transducer has 2-wire socket.

Ikenna.

I would advice everyone to stick to instructions or recommendations on owners manual.

Op,

You said using 5W40 & 15W50 in Nigeria is wrong. Unfortunately, you are wrong. You dont generalise what is good for all engines in different brands of cars. Let me tell you what Peugeot says about all their petrol engines in 406 owners manual:


TEMPERATURE: CELSIUS

1. 20W-50: -7(cold) & +50(Hot)
2. 15W-50: -15(cold) & +50(Hot)
3. 10W-40: -20(Cold) & +50(Hot)
4. 5W-40: -30(cold) & +50(Hot)
5. 5W-30: -30(cold) & +50(Hot)
6. 0W-40: -35(cold) & +50(Hot).

What above table means is: for a place with cold temperature as cold as -7 degree celsius and hot temperature as hot as 50 degree celsius can safely use Quartz 5000: 20W 50. Likewise, a place/country cold temp -15 C & hot temp of +50 C, can safely use Quartz 7000 semi-synthetic: 15W 50, etc.

Now, you were saying in your write up that we should be using SAE 50 - SAE 60 oil? On which car or engine?

Note that Peugeot recommends the above oil grades in their Petrol and Diesel engines used in 406, 407, 607, 807,etc (1999 - 2010): EW, HDI & ES series. Funny enough, an EW motor is also one of the engines in the newly lauched 408. Are you now saying you know better than the manufacturers of these engines that recommends the use of these oils in their engines? Even in 406 owners manual, Peugeot stated that 15W 50 is to be used in their workshop at service or oil change, for all the listed engines found in Peugeot cars right till their newest car in the market.

The other day, i went to a Peugeot Dealership, ASD Motors, here in Abuja. While in their show room, I saw their Servicing Schedule. It stated in the schedule:

1. Change of engine oil (for Peugeots): 15W 50
2. Cost of Labour: N1,800.00 per hour.
3, Etc.


Op, the same reason you are giving about temperature and need to use the oil grades you mentioned, is the same reason Nigerians give why Cooling System Thermostat should be removed. Why do Nigerians think that Nigeria is the hottest part of the Earth?


Manufacturers know the type of oil that will be good for their engines, to make them last longer. That 20W-50 (Quartz 5000) or 15W-50 (Quartz 7000) doesnt work well in Toyota or Honda doesnt mean they are bad oil. Beacause they were produced to work well for some engines, which some engine manufacturers may have considered while designing their engines.

I have been using Quartz 5000 (20W-50, Mineral oil) in my ZN3J, since i bought her. Not even for once did I experience oil sludge. Yet, i changed the oil every 6 months. While some people have complained that 20W 50 Mineral oil have caused sludge in their Toyota engines, even when they change their oils every 3 months. On 02/10/2012, i changed my ZN3J engine oil with 20W 50 Quartz 5000. The next time i changed it was this morning. How many months? 8 Months. This was the first time i delayed in changing the oil, once it clocks 6 months. Guess how the oil looked like when it flowed out? It was almost looking the same way (except the colour though) the same day i poured it in on that 02/10/2012. It was as if i have not driven the car more than a week since the last change, yet i have done some trips with the car since that october last year. Though i switched to 15W 50 (Quartz 7000, semi-synthetic) today, simply to elongate the oil change interval.

The truth is, TOTAL designs their engine oil to run well in Peugeot engines, while Peugeot designs their engines to run well/better with TOTAL oils. Probably i may get oil sludge if i switch to Mobil or other brand, irrespective of the oil grade.

To everyone, find genuine oil that is good for your engine, one recommended by the engine/car manufacturer. The only way to do that is to stick to engine oil grade(s) recommended in the owners manual.

Ikenna.

princejones: @sultaan That is what the electrican told me sensor wire but to my understanding it is the wire that supplies current to the plug or nozzles which comes from the engine.thanks

Una no go kill peson here. Lol! Didnt know that our mechanics dictionary has been updated.

Ikenna.

adanny01: Am also doubtfull that the gear box gave up so early at 130,000km. I wonder if a fault external of the gear box can lead to what am experiencing. The sound its making doesnt seem to come from inside the gear box itself but from between the engine and gear. I've had gear box failure b4 but not like this one. What i expect is for some gears to disengage while driving or to refuse to enter entirely.

In this case, it just stop driving. Its not like it disengages of refuse to enter, it just wont respond on clutch.

What if there is another fault causing the problem? From where i hear sounds, i was thinking, what if the fly wheel has a problem or any form of gear that transmits engine output to gear box. In that case there wil be no input to the gear box. If true, the even a new gear box will not solve the problem.

I will the be at lost. Even if the purchased gear box is accepted back by the spare part dealer, i would have lost in transportation and cost of labour.

Pls auto gurus, is there any gear or any other mechanism that can result to loss of engine output or gear box input? Is there diagnostics for manual gear?

Note that the clutch plate and disc were found in good condition. Also, while the car is in neutral gear, reviving the engine amplifies the noise in direct proportion. My guts tells me there is more to it than has been discovered.

I believe your Prado is RWD.

Did you check gearbox rear output spline? What about the part of the propeller shaft that goes into the output spline of the gearbox? Most times, when propeller shaft shifts back and pull out of the gearbox, you will get experience such symptom. The issue with your car sounded like what i just explained. I bet you that is the culprit, i could still be wrong though.

As your mechanic to check where your propeller shaft enters the gearbox at the back of gearbox.

Ikenna.

AutoQuint: I have taken pains to attach a pdf elaboration. please read carefully and pass round perhaps this is the time to correct this anomalies. I am suppose to be working with NAC (National Automotive Council)but, for their bureaucracy I don't think I am cut for inactive exercises. We can do it, pass information out let people know the odds. i bet you don't know a fink about the ATF, Gear Oil, Brake fluid etc. Nigeria is in trouble with these stuffs. Enjoy the pdf write up and pass it round. May be sometime, we may be able to organize a live forum and I will shock everybody.

It appears you are new in Car Talk, otherwise you should have known that not all active members in car Talk that one can decieve with journalist crap.

Your PDF write up is full of false information. I dont even know where to start. If i were you, i would remove or modify it before anyother member reads it. So you are telling me that Lagos is hotter than Abuja, abi? Oh I forgot, Lagos state has a boundary with Desert.

By the way, i hope your intention for creating this thread is not to market your business/service?

Ikenna.

ping2ping: @Ikenna
My Toyota Carina E 1996 emits sky blue smoke. My mechanic says the engine is the problem and suggested i replace the engine rather than change the rings.

I also noticed that the oil level has been going down. Since i have been using the car, i have not had cause to top oil before servicing. Infact when i service, the oil level will be almost same level as at the last servicing.

Secondly, i have noticed that i have to top water in the radiator more frequently than i sue to. Before, i top water (less than a glass) once a week and atimes i don't even check water in the radiator for more than a week because i will be sure water will be there.

Furthermore, the mechanic also recommended changing my radiator to "double cell" since the one on the car now is "single cell" though he said it is only advisable and NOT compulsory.

Please i need your advise before these mechanics will rip me off.

Yes, your engine is burning oil. Solution is either to reuild or replace the engine. Rebuilding the engine is one thing, but using genuine parts for the rebuilt is another. If you cant get or vouch for the quality of parts to be used in rebuilding the engine, replacing the engine with a good used one (tokunbo) will be a better option. Your mechanic has a point here.

Note that rebuilding engine with genuine parts will cost more than tokunbo engine. You should have it at the back of your mind that an engine blowing blue smoke doesnt only need the rings to be replaced. Whatever caused your cylinders to wear out faster will surely affect the bottom end and cylinder head of your engine. Thats why i always adviced against running engine at very cold temperature (tampering of factory cooling system settings: Thermostat removal; running radiator fan constantly, etc). It doesnt matter even if you change your engine oil every 3 months with fully synthetic oil.

As for the cooling system shortage of coolant or water, that would depend if you are changing your engine or rebuilding it, because the issue may be fixed when your engine issue has been sorted out, unless its leaking elsewhere not on the engine.

As for the so called double cell radiator, dont listen to whoever adviced you to change your factory radiator. There is nothing wrong with your factory set up cooling system.

Ikenna.

symbianDON: @ikenna, pls how do i go about renewing in abuja for 30k? Do you have anyone who can help? All the people i have spoken to have been quoting prices higher than 35k.

Yes, I have a contact, a VIO staff at Mabushi who will renew the old to new number plate and renew the vehicle papers to reflect the new number, all for 30k.

Contact me off line/PM to get his contact.

Ikenna.

Find a 505 V6 stick in a recent race in USA:

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=cba098b5b837bc8106d8d03145017221&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aussiefrogs.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D104927%26page%3D3&v=1&libId=a4e13008-6819-41e6-b38f-ffe1de9aaa19&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F67027731%40N04%2F8807771726%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aussiefrogs.com%2Fforum%2Fforumdisplay.php%3Ff%3D12&title=Post%20a%20PIC%20of%20your%20Peugeot%20-%20Page%203&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F67027731%40N04%2F8807771726%2F&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13700061729527

There is a story behind this 505 STX V6 Stick. The owner, Arun, who lives in Virginia, bought the lion in 2011. The car had some issues when he bought her. With my help, i got some parts for him here in Nigeria and shipped them to him. He even wanted to convert the headlight from American to Euro spec headlight. I bought a brand new set from him and shipped to him. Unfortunately, he didnt like the quality. He said i would bought a used one still in good condition (tokunbo) just like other parts i got for him, which were mostly used parts. So, as you can see in the pics, the car now has Euro headlights instead of American spec headlight, since its an American spec 505 V6. Though, he said he would source for another Euro spec headlights when he received the one i got for him, but i didnt get back to him on that, to know if he eventually found another, a genuine one. So it could be the one i shipped to him or another

It was a recent race he participated, this year 2013, i believe.

Take your time and go through the whole pics.

Ikenna.

Op,

I disagreed with some of your positions. I donot understand what you mean by 92% of engine oil in Nigeria are underrated or fake.

I dont know the brands of cars you used as yardstick for your analysis, but i do know that TOTAL have various engine oils grade recommended by Peugeot for all their cars, ranging from Mineral, semi-synthetic & fully synthetic oil grades. The only 3 missing are 10W 40, 5W 30 & 0W 40. But for modern or newer petrol Peugeot engines, they recommended 15W 50 (semi-synthetic) & 5W 40 (fully synthetic), which are very much available in TOTAL outlets: Quartz 7000 & Quartz 9000. TOTAL also has a special oil for SUVs & Trucks known as 15W 50 4x4 (semi-synthetic). Or are you saying TOTAL engine oils in Nigeria are low quality? I have been using TOTAL since i started handling my dads car back in the days till i started owning mine, i never had engine failure. I can vouch for TOTAL engine oil for Peugeot engines.

Funny enough, about an hour ago, i bought 5W 40 & 15W 50. The 5W 40 is for my ES9J4S, while the 15W 50 is for my ZN3J. I plan to change the 2 cars oil tomorrow, being Saturday.

Probably, you meant Japanese cars or other brands of cars recommended engine oil are not available in Nigeria or the ones available are fake. But genuine manufacturer recommended engine oil grades for Lions are very much available.

My position.

Ikenna

ZIM DRILL: it might be the pistol in the brake caliper

when you step the brakes the pistol is pushed by brake fluid and the pistol pushes the brake pads and the car stops and the pistol is supposed to push back to allow free movement, if it doesnt you end up having the wheel binding

Well said.

He should also note that a failed brake flexible hose would give the same symptom on 1 wheel.

I suggested the rekitting of brake master cylinder because he said the brake binding occurs on 2 wheels. Because it will be weird for 2 wheels brake flexible hoses or caliper pinions to fail at the same time, unless the car was parked for a long time, making the pinions to rust inside the calipers.

Ikenna.

Sometime in the past, i attended a Retreat, a spiritual one. A Rev. Fr. opened up and told us about a Retreat he added with his fellow Rev. Fr., who was the speaker that day. The Fr. started with Philosophy: from Socrates to Plato, from Plato to Aristotle, etc. Later, he jumped into Theology. And before they knew it, the day was gone. While his colleague was speaking to the participants, he saw on their faces, sadnes. They all had frowned faces. After the long talk, one of them approached them and told the priest what a mess he just did. That they all had different academic backgrounds/profession, including few of them that were proffessors. That they didnt come for the Retreat to be "Lectured" Philosophy and Theology, which most of them already have the knowledge. And that even those who didnt know cared little to be taught that in that arena, considering what they came for. That what and why all of them left their respectives homes and gathered there to was: TO HEAR THE WORD OF GOD!

@ Trac,

The story i narrated above is likened to what happened in this thread. The topic was a good one. The first few posts were so on point. But you (probably unintentionaly) led to what the thread has become. Active members of Car Talk are not here to be lectured Physics and Chemistry, because its not a Physics and Chemistry section of the forum, even though car is science. This thread was not created (from the topic title and the op original post) for us to be lectured what concussion of chemicals that takes place in a lab before a tyre is produced. Simply, the topic was created for us to discuss the merits and demerits of fat and skinny tyres,depending on the condition of the roads and situation you find yourself on the road. The thread became boring to me as soon as your law this, chemical this, started flying everywhere. I un-followed this thread long time ago since i couldnt cope anymore. I pepped in today, this morning, and saw more grammer still flying everwhere.

Am not here to debate whether Somorin#1 contributed in what this thread has become, but no one seems to understand where Somorin#1 is coming, whether he is right or wrong on how he has been calling on Trac to prove a position he took in his first post here. But Trac, reduce your slight when replying a post or giving an opinion, because you do make some posters look foolish or silly sometimes because of their personal opinions you do not agree with. Stop giving the impression that only a well known "engineer" has authority to say what is correct, knows all or knows better than the others. I used to make similar mistake, but have stopped it, when i realised how wrong it was. You do that a lot, to be very honest. The result of that is what we have here in this thread. Go back and read your first 3 posts here and see what am saying.

Please, i have a story, a personal experience about skinny tyres i want to tell. Will do that later.

But please, Trac & Somorin#1, let it go.

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: I was at a store today but didnt get the electrical contact cleaner but saw a spray bottle and this idea came into my head:

Fill the spray bottle with METHYLATED SPIRIT and use WITH the option of using a small hand/painters brush on the contacts after spraying. What do you think?

Meanwhile I spoke to a parts seller who offered to get it for me.

Till Then!

Thats what i have been using, but it doesnt clean contacts well as i would want.

Please, dont bother yourself that much about getting one for me. A friend in US has promised to buy and shipped one to me. But for the meantime, he said i could use Alcohol (Isopropyl or something) as an alternative, which does the cleaning well. That i should find it in drugstores. Me i no understand that one o! Abi make i enter pharmacies dey ask them "Una get Alcohol here?". I could as well enter beer parlour and ask for 1759, treat my self small before taking the rest to the car for the cleaning job. Lol!

Also, something said something about cleaning with Tinner in one other forum. But how safe is Thinner touching the car body paint? Confused, seriously!

Ikenna.

Update on my D9 Timing Belt replacement.

Find pics taken while replacing the belt, below, in the link:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104648&page=2


Ikenna.

jum33: @Ikenna
The two front wheel

Then the culprit is the brake master cylinder. Its directly attached on brake booster in the engine bay.

I believe the cylinder has two chambers: front and rear pinions. Wash and rekit the cylinders.

Ikenna.

jum33: hello All ,
My brake system is binding and i need suggestions on how to relax the effect on my driving wheel .

How many wheels are the brake binding? 1,2 or the 4 wheels?

Ikenna.

@ Trac,

Americans call it Tire, while Britons call it Tyre. Both are correct.

Ikenna.

prosper2013: ok thanks av gotten anothe engine thax alot but plz its not radiator it was more of bad cyclider an other tinwch was not easy detected tax al d same
wat i ned from u knwo is wat i can remove and sell off like nozzle ,plugs ,plugs cab;e compressor an d others thats

Please, can you type in full words so that we can understand you better?

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: Hi All,

The oil in WD-40 is not very thick, dries fast, and has something like thinner mixed with it thats why the sticky-ness issue wont be there.

I have seen the electrical contact cleaner somewhere here in Lagos, i will find it out, send the name out and place where I got it. If possible send some to you Ikenna if thats the least I could do for the growth of this thread.

I wouldnt mind if you could send me one o! My 505 V6 seriously need it. Thanks.

Ikenna.

I woke up this morning, 29/05/2013, (thanks to the public holiday), checked the weather and it appeared ok (including AccuWeather). By ok, i meant no rainfall. So i decided to replace my D9 timing belt.

I comeenced the job at 8am. By 10.am, the old belt was out. It looked so new to be removed, but it has to go out. Thats the cost of preventative maintenance. I Checked the 3 rollers and tensioner and they were all in good contion. No need for replacement. But irealsied that to reinstall the tensioner with the new belt, i would need another special tool which i ignored, thinking i could do without it. Its 1/2" drive T-Bar. So I asked my welder to construct one for me and described to him how it would look like, including the length. So I waited.

By 1pm, the 1/2" T-Bar was ready. So i started threading in the new belt. At a point, i realised that the part of belt on Bank 2 was too tight (tensioner side), while the Bank 1 was too loosed for my liking. So i removed the belt and started again. I got it right on 3rd installation. Both sides were not too loosed and not too tight (perfect). So I adjusted the tensioner and locked the tensioner. Then, i rotated the engine via crankshaft pulley several times, watching the belt gradually settling in. I aligned the timing holes, inserted 5 cam pinion lock pins (11mm bolt) and the timing checked out ok. So, i checked the belt and both banks were well tensioned. So, i started to refit everything thing back, which took hours.

By 4pm, the car was on its 4 wheels. I reconnected the battery with the correct procedure. Switched on the ignition, cranked the engine and it was damn running smoothly. Phew!

I allowed it to idle for 10 mins without touching the throttle. The new belt needed to settle in properly via engine idle. After the engine had idled for 15 mins or so, i jumped into the car(with my work cloth, looking so dirty) and rove out for a drive. I entered an expressway and drove for like 10 mins, not revving beyond 2k rpm. I got to a point and decided to turn back and head home. I crawled for a 2 mins or so, changed my mind, pulled the stick back to 4th gear, pushed my right foot hard, allowed the transmission to scream a little bit, push the stick back to the 5th gear and started enjoying the power of 210 hp V6. No be my fault na!

Anyway, i replaced the belt at 168,832 km mileage. So, it will be due for replacement at 250k mileage or next 10 years (whichever comes first). I may even decide to replace it before then. Maybe, the next 5 years or so.

As usuall, i took photos while the replacement was going on. I even made a video of the car while it was idling after the belt replacement. May upload them here or post the link here. Honestly, the ES9J4S can be so quiet! Such a smooth noiseless running engine!

So, the public holiday wasnt a waste for me, after all.

Ikenna.

iykedenis: its honda accord 2.0 engine i4,popularly known as bullet.. its a petrol engine..1997 or 1998 not too sure of that.

Then its OBD II compliant. Find where you can scan the car and pull error codes to know which component(s) that have failed, making the car to be running that rich.

Ikenna.

iykedenis: am still waiting for advice for my refinery (Car)..

Lol! @ refinery.

Anyway, whats the model year of your Accord? Petrol or Diesel?

Ikenna.