₦airaland Forum

I would rather park my car or find another route home than hydrolock my engine.

Newer Cars with EFI engines these days are designed to suck air into the airfilter box under the car via tubes lowered under the filterbox, so that IAT will always be sensing cold air, signalling to engine ECU to help in supplying adequate amount of fuel going into the intake for proper amount of air/fuel mixtures.

My point is, a modern car will easily suck in water via airbox and push the water into intake manifold, when driven in a pool of water. The engine will hydrolock and you kiss goodbye to that engine, unless you are ready to rebuild it.

Dont swim with your EFI car. Its not a Boat.

Ikenna.

linktel: Thank God for this thread,i have a nissan altima 2001 model,and i mst say i got it from a friend,but i havent enjoyed the car for a full month,its either at a rewire or a mechanics place..the issues just keeps appearing once u fix one...av abandoned it at a mechanic's place when i was told that the injector needs to be serviced....am fed up..pls anyone with a competent mechanic/rewire for nissan dat can fix all the electrical issues and injector issues...pls drop ur contact here..

It has been obvious to me that some of us dont deserve to own our current cars, with some comments we make here at times.

No offence, but i dont see any seriousness on your part, from the above post, that you truly want to fix that car. Even though you have edited and removed a statement you made in the post, where you stated that "Nissans are useless cars, unreliable cars or something like that". Thats what made me wondering if truly you want that car fixed or not.

A simple question i have for you? Did you even bother to scan that car all those while the car was giving you nightmares? If you did, how did you tackle the error codes pulled out? What exactly do you think that car is? Datsun 180B?

You gave your car to a clown, he messed up the ride, and you are blaming the poor car for it? Like i said, not everyone deserves the current car he/she owns.

If you need help, state your car issues and seek for suggestions on how to resolve the issues, so that those who understand Nissan better will offer their suggestions to you, on how to get your car running in good shape again.

I know nothing about Nissan, so i would advice you wait for others to help out.

Ikenna.

I still dont understand why we are all saying Mineral Oils are bad oil. That your car engine doesnt run comfortable with a Mineral oil, does not mean its a bad oil, because that same oil your engine doesnt tolerate, another engine will smile when you run the engine with that oil. Engines are designed differently.

For years, i was using Quartz 5000, 20W-50, on my 2 PRVs, even before i sold one of them and bought a PR as a replacement. I was changing the oils on average of 6 months, never less than 6 months. Not even once did i see something i was not expecting to see on the oil while renewing the old with new oil. The old oils would always look as if they were barely used. The oil filler caps would always look as clean as i last left it. Not once have any of my engine emit blue smoke or underguage between the oil change interval. I drive my cars to any part of the country i travel to, except Lagos or state i do not know the road. Yet, the engines are always in top shape, running on Mineral oil, Quartz 5000.

I switched to semi-synthetic oil, Quartz 7000: 15W-50, last month in my ZN3J (PRV). But am beginning to see that as a waste of money. After discussing with other PRV users in dedicated forums, i realised that most of them have been running 10W 40 or 20W 50 (Mineral oils) in their PRVs for decades now. But they do use 10W 40 (Semi-synthetic or fully synthetic) during winter in those winters. From their long years of experience of those engines, the PRVs run very well on any good Mineral oil thrown at it. I may switch back to Quartz 5000 in the next oil change. I have not decided yet.

Engines are designed deferently. The designs may appear similar, but will not be identical. You cant handle Toyota the way you handle Peugeot. They are two different technologies, even though they would share some of the tech on the engines. Thats why car manufacturers do team up to share technologies and manufacture engines to use in some of their specific cars.

PSA designs their modern engines on Peugeots & Citroens to run perfectly well on Quartz 7000 (15W 50) & Quartz 9000 (5W 40), among others. They may not be ok for non PSA engines. So that Quartz 9000 or 7000 didnt work well in your engine, doesnt make them bad oil, likwise the Mineral oil, Quartz 5000 20W-50. Check the TOTAL website. On each of their products (engine oil), they stated the car manufacturers, apart from from Pigeot & Citroen, that approved/recommended the oils for their cars. For example, on Quartz 9000 (5W 40) can, you will see: Approved/recommended by Peugeot/Citroen, VW, MB, BMW & Porsche. Then in TOTAL website, you will see list of various Peugeot engine models with recommended TOTAL oil grades for each of those engines. They were recommended by PSA, not TOTAL.

Find what oil grade and brand your car manufacturer recommends for your engine.

Again, there is nothing wrong with Mineral oils. We talk as if semi-synthetic & fully synthetic oils have been with us since the '70s, '80s & '90s. When do we started seeing semi-synthetic & fully synthetic oils in Nigerian market? All those decades Nigerians had only Mineral oils in the market, were all engines having sludge issues? Please, if you are an old driver here, prove me wrong. The simple truth is that most modern engines these days dont tolerate Mineral oils, simple. But it doesnt make them bad oils.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: @ Ikenna.Hope you had a nice day!

Did a test this morning to test for thermostat with atmospheric temperature @ 27 degrees.Switched on the ignition and left it on for about 30 seconds without starting the car to see of the ANTI POLLUTION FAULT showing on display would go but it didn't so I started the engine and allowed it to idle. Noticed that the fan didn't start with the car unlike the past 2 days and realised that connecting the CTS connector properly had solved more problems than i realised . Upper radiator hose got hot after about 10 mins of engine idle with the temperature gauge at 90 degrees (which it had reached 3mins earlier after about 7-8mins of engine idle) while the lower radiator hose was still cold, lower radiator hose got warm after about 15mins of engine idle; all the while fan didn't come on and A.C was off as you recommended.

so it looks like my lion still has its factory connection and the fan coming on immediately engine was switched on was caused by the CTS connector issue then. Hope am right?

From the result of the test, your thermostat is still intact, likewise the factory connection of your radiator fan. It should take more than 30 mins for the fan to start spinning at cold start without A/C on. So, enjoy your ride.

As for the check engine light, find a scanner that can communicate with the engine ECU and rease the fault stored in the ECU. The check engine light will go off and the Anti-pollution fault warning will stop beeping.

Ikenna

@ Youngboss & Costee,

You dont discuss Toyota in BMW thread, likewise discuss Honda in Benz or Peugeot thread. Those threads were created to specifically discuss those brands. Bringing in another brand into those thread will defeat the purpose of creating those threads with the distractions and confusion it will bring, which will eventually kill such threads.

French cars have different technology, so is Benz or Toyota. If you want to understand Toyota technology better, its peculiar issues, how best to troubleshoot them and fix them, you visit Toyota thread.

We can always start a new thread to compare cars, as title will indicate.

Lets allow Infinity and Nissan users, admirers, lovers, friends and experts to discuss issues, post queries and offer solutions on how best to keep their cars on the road. This thread is not different from Peugeot, Benz, Honda and Audi threads. Lets allow them please.

Ikenna

@ RapzyJ,

Have you tried to reset the BSI or reprogram the key transponder with the keycode?

If the windows wont come down because of the economy mode, have you tried resetting the BSI with the windows up? Just make sure all switches are off, doors closed and bonnet open, before disconnecting the battery after 3 mins of closing all doors and boot. You can open the drivers door after reconnecting the battery (after counting 10 secs) a.d then switch on the headlight and complete the rest of the instructions.

If after resetting the BSI and it still refuse to start, then you will have to tackle the immobilizer issue. You will need that keycode to reprogram the car key. I came accross a site the other day where you can request for your lion keycode, after providing your VIN and of course, pay. They will get the keycode for you and forward to you. Its a 4 digit code. But they are based in UK. You can also get it from any Peugeot dealership that have Service Box account as a dealer. They can get it for you, but not free though.

Ikenna

wisesystem: Thanks. Yes am conversant with battery removal procedure for 406. would try both methods and see if I ll be fortunate to get the check engine light wiped off. Come to Abuja every fortnight so I ll gladly wait for the opportunity to have you reset the fan to factory settin if I dont get a convincingly capable electrician. There is a Peugeot dealership outfit somewhere in Makurdi, ll check them out tomorrow to see what they ve got. With regards to scanning my lion, will a universal car scannig do the job or do i insist on getting access to a peugeot plant 2000? Do have a great evening man. Danke!

I would be relunctant to disconnet the battery if i were you. That should be the last resort. Try the ignition method first. If it doesnt work, look for a universal scanner that can read your ECU, scan and erase the faults. Not all universal scanners will read your engine ECU. It depends on its protocol. I have two universal scanners and diagbox. The 2 universal scanners communicates with my D9 V6. But i have tried both 2 scanners on I4 406s and they werent communicating with their ECUs irrespective of their models, unlike my D9 V6. But they read 407 ECUs, just like mine. My point is, not all scanners can read your 406 ECU, unlike the PP2000 that will read ECU of anything with Peugeot badge. D9 V6 protocol is different from D9 I4.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Bravo!!! tO Ikenna the Lion King!!!!!
U got it spot on my broda, traced the CTS connector following the radiator upper hose and noticed that the CTS connector wasnt properly connected. fitted it properly and like magic STOP LIGHT gone; COOLANT TEMPERATURE GUAGE WORKING AND NOT EXCEEDING 90C; COOLANT TEMPERATURE WARNING ON DISPLAY GONE! A million tanks my brother. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT remains though. With the temperature guage now working i ll do another test tomorrow morning to know at what temperature the thermostat actually opens. 'Anti pollution fault' still showing though but wiyh your help i know i ll get there. tanks a lot Ikenna I appreciate...

Congrats!

About the check engine light and Anit-pollution fault still showing, the ECU has to be cleared of those faults before they could go away. A scanner can erased them. But, they may go off on their own, after a while. It will take sometime for the ECU to re-learn. But try this: Switch on the ignition and leave it on for more than 10 seconds, without starting the car. Or you can disconnect the battery for 1 hour or more. It works on non-BSI cars, but i have never tried it on my D9, since i havent gotten any check engine light. It may work on the BSI Lions. But you need to be careful with disconnecting the battery head(s). It has a procedure which i believe you are already aware of. But a scanner will simply erase or reset the Engine ECU for you.



Since the CTS lost it connection with the ECU, the car had been running rich all those while, from Cotonu to your place. So, thats why you are getting Anti-polltion fault. You should have black sooth on the tail exhaust opening, unless you have washed it off. Even your spark plugs will be covered in black sooth as well. It will take time to clear.

On a sad note, i just hope your oxygen sensor is still good. Why? Because the excess unburnt fuel going out via the exhaust may contaminate the oxygen sensor mounted on the exhaust or cat converter and kill it. Oxygen sensor hates contamination. Its a main killer of the sensor. But lets hope yours its still ok.

As for the constant spinning of the fan, if you were in Abuja, I would have asked you to bring the car to reverse the connection to factory.

As for testing the working of the thermostat, make sure the AC is switched off.

The truth is, when you understand Peugeot Electrical system or how it works, you will find it very simple to troubleshoot, no matter how complex the system is.

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: @ Wisesystem:
OMO! See clean car! shey I can polish mine to look like this sha?
CONGRATS MAN and I wish you a very sweet experience with it!

@ Ikenna:
Pls check ma post naaa!
Just give me straight advice, no matter how hard, I ld take it.
Thanks

Which post? I thought i have responded to your last post?

Or is it about Vehicle Speed sensor?

D9 has two speed sensors: Transducer (on the gearbox, which controls the speedometer) and RPM sensor or crankshaft position sensor (on Bellhousing) which senses the rotation or spinning of crankshaft and signalling to engine ECU the position of crankshaft, so that the spark plug will receive spark and fire according to the timing.

If your speed sensor/transducer fails or starts failing, your speedometer will show it. But if the speed sensor, RPM or CKP sensor fails or starts failing, the car will be having hard start issue, stalling or non start when it eventually fails.

But your BSI is not reading your transponder. I would concentrate on that for now.

Ikenna.

Please, we are beginning to derail and mess this thread up. Its a Nissan and Infinity thread,not a thread to compare cars or compare Nissan with other brands.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: My findings this morning
1. Coolant Temperature Warning comes on as soon as the engine starts running

2. Check Engine Light remains on display all through a 20minute engine idle

3. Ran a test for Thermostat using your model, upper hose warms after about 5mins or so and got hotter after 15mins. Lower hose remained cold after the same time.

4. Car fan starts immediately Engine comes on and continues for a while after engine is shut .

your informed opinion is desperately craved. tank you.

1. Sounds like your CTS is faulty, which could be why you are getting Anti-pollution fault warning and non functional temp guage on the cluster. Can you check if the CTS connector is properly pushed into the sensor? The sensor is on the Thermostat housing. How to locate it? Follow the radiator upper hose to where it stopped on the engine. Thats the t-stat housing. You should see a sensor with green plastic connector around it, which has 2 wire connector. Gently pull out the connector and push it back in. Check if the temp guage has started working. From the reapir manual, all EW series have the same cooling system set up, i.e, it has only one temp sensor which controls both the Temp guage, radiator fan and signals to engine ECU, just like my ES9J4S (D9 V6). But the XU10 & ES9J4 (D8 V6) have 3 temp sensors, which perform different functions. Anyway, you can still test the working of the CTS manually, to determine if it has failed or not. It has to be test with DMM. Can you do that?

2. Check engine light remaining on when engine starts running means the car has an injection issue, hence, the Anti-pollution fault warning light. The car is burning excess fuel. If the CTS is actually faulty, then the check engine light and Anti-pollution warning will go off as soon the CTS issue is sorted out. But there could still be other faults causing the check engine light on. Scanning the car will give up the culprits.

3. It shows that the thermostat is still in the system. But it would have been better to be sure that it's still opening at certain temperature which is 82 degree celsius. You still need to test it until the lower radiator hose gets warm, to rule out the thermostat.

4. This shows that abused had taken place in the engine bay before you got the car. Clowns! The original/factory fan connection has been bypassed. Its one of the reason the lower radiator hose is not getting warm when it should, because the fan spinning when engine is still cold will be preventing the coolant in the engine block to warm up to optimal temp and making the thermostat not to open. If you dont want to replace that engine and the fan soon, revert it the fan connection to factory.


If you can find a place where you can scan the car, it will troubleshoot it faster for you. But its only PP2000 that can give you a complehensive result on what is truly wrong with the car. But the universal scanner can still help. PP2000 was designed specifically for Peugeots.

If you think you can test the CTS with DMM, let me know, so that i can guide you from here.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Tanks my Broda. Thats the reason am all over you probing for solutions to 'would be' problems. looking at doing a lot of preventive maintenance on my lion. The milage count is reading 69 000 and some fractions so i think i have a relatively early start to give the best care to my lion... and can forget about Timing Belt issues for now. will wait for your response. Danke

n.b
never knew a Peugeot could have a sound system so cool... Am greatly impressed.

The sound system is JBL system. One of the best.

As for your timing belt, i would work towards the replacement soon. Recommended mileage for timing belt replacement for all 406 petrol engines is 80,000 km. Dont wait till it get to that. The previous owner of my D9 replaced the timing at 66k km. Better to play safe, which was why i replaced mine, even though it was still looking brand new. Thats the cost of preventative maintenance.

Ikenna

wisesystem: pic of my fox

Wow! You got a clean nice looking lion.

Now, we all can now see that EW7 & EW10 look alike.

Will reply your earlier post when i get to office.

Ikenna

Now, from the link of review of 300m i provided above, i didnt read anywhere in those reviews where it was stated the car overheated, yet some of them had done more than 100k miles. Now, who was saying the Chrysler 300m are known for overheating?

Ikenna.

KA24DETT: Why is is whenever a car gets to naija , it starts to overheat. People drive cars 20-25yrs here and it does not overheat but when it gets to naija, it overheats.

Stop putting ordinary water as coolant. Stop bypassing the radiator fan and please stop removing the thermostat.

Period.

Ikenna

wisesystem: Aarrrgh!!pics of my fox wont upload... guess I ll have to resize

@ ikenna. Tanks for your help was able to change the multi funtion display language to English. Also change oil using quartz 7000 but my lion still keeps showing the STOP sign. Also displaying on the diplay is 'COOLANT TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH' and 'ANTI-POLLUTUON FAULT', and my lions coolant temperature guage seems not to be working, simply not rising an inch. I think the car thermostat is intact as the car fan continues to spin even when car engine is cut of. yet to find where i can scan my lion. In the interim, is there anything you think I can do? or safe measures to take? Tanks in advance.

That a radiator fan continues to spin after switching off the engine, does not mean the thermostat is still intact. There is a simple method of knowing if your thermostat is missing or failed which i have described on many occassion. I recently explained the details after my D9 purchase. Try and rewind back to that page. Someone also did the same test in his 407 recently and updated us. The test has to be done when engine is cold in the morning via upper and lower radiator hoses.

As for your, temp gauage, Coolant temp & Anti-pollution issues, sorry to hear that. But its not a big deal. But i need more details first.

About the "Coolant Temperature too high", when does that warning shows on the display? As soon as the engine starts running (even when cold) or after the engine has ran for a while?

For your temperature guage. XU10 engine has 3 temp sensors on the thermostat housing lined up together, vertically. The 1st one on top, with green plastic cover, is the CTS that signals to Engine ECU the temp of coolant, to determine amount of fuel injectors will inject when engine is cold or hot. One of 2 below is the temp sender that controls the temp guage on the instrument cluster. The last one is a thermistor that signals to coolant temperature control unit, the coolant temp. The control unit uses the signal receives to control the AC condenser and radiator fan: when to spin and at what speed. Am not sure about EW7 set up, but i want to believe it has the same cooling system set up with EW10. Will check the repair manual and get back to you on that.

As for the Anti-pollution warning, i want us to sort out the "Coolant Temperature too high" before i go into this one. Am suspecting something, but i need to be sure before i say it.

Ordinally, i would have advised you scan the car. But scanning it without pp2000 wont give you full result.

If i may ask, does the engine check light remains on constantly when engine is running?

Ikenna

viperman: Oga Expert, I suggested that to him because, it HAS WORKED for me a while ago when i had the same problem. Its a common problem with 1998-2002 Qx4s, pathfinders and xTerras....I know because, i've encountered them a lot. Maybe it has something to do with our weather here or not.
You don't have to insult another person to drive your own suggestion home.

I dont see how that my post involves you. Or are you one of the quack Nigerian mechanics that i call clowns? What then is your problem?

Ikenna.

Find reviews in the link below:

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/chrysler/300m/


Ikenna.

wisesystem: Hurray!!!!! Received delivery of my 2002 model 406 yesterday night. she came looking quite elegant... defying all the mud and dirt our nigerian roads threw at her through a 10hr trip from Lagos to Makurdi with her total milage reading 69 thousand miles/kilometers( dont know which actually). Cant wait to take her for a hot shower after service today.

Sadly she arrived with a blinking STOP sign [ :' (which I suspect has to do with the oil level as the greedy agent I paid to bring it down confessed he didnt change oil but added a litre on the way. would check the oil level this morning to see for myself.

Another source of worry is that the temperature guage didnt even reach the half way mark after the ten hour trip, infact it was barely up, so I ll follow Ikenna's proposed thermostat check procedure later today to know if there's a thermostat in my fox or not. Hope to upload pictures of her after her shower and make up. Wishing you all a pleasant day!


@ Ikenna. I beleive Quartz 7000 15w-50(Total) is the ideal oil for my fox? Also my fox seems to know how to speak only french. what can i do about that?

At last! Congrats!

Yes, Total Quartz 7000 15W 50 is the right oil.

As for the language thing on the multi-function display screen, you will see 2 buttons on both sides of the screen. Switch on the ignition, press and hold the left side button (drivers side). After some seconds, the display will start blinking. The 1st to appear will be "Language: French". Language will remain stable, while French will be blinking. Press the right side button (passenger side) on the screen to change the language to whichever one you like. About 5 languages or so will appear each time you press the right button. When you get to the language you want, press the left button, which serves as enter and it will bring up other function which you may like to change, like temperature type, time (24 hrs or 12 hrs), time setting & date setting. Use right button to select what you want and use the left button to save it.

Keep us updated. Congrats again on your newly acquired Lion.

Ikenna

@ RapzyJ,

Do you have BSI manual? In the manual, you will find how to recode or programm key transponders, among other things as well. I think i have posted the link to that manual here, but am not sure.

Ikenna

RapzyJ: Hi Ikenna and everyone in the house.

@ Ikenna: I have not installed DiagBox yet, I only installed Lexia3 and PP2000 independently. I initially attempted DiagBox but messed up. After installing the above two I think I should be able to install Diag.

BUT in the mean time I tried using the tool on my 406 D9but couldnt communicate with the ECU.
I maneourvered till I got to the fault finding section and u will see the results below. Pls Advice me on what to do.

Finally, the Economy Mode Active didnt clear after days of disconnectiong the battery. But something I noticed from the result is that the tool mentioned low battery, could that be the cause?

Can the tool reset the BSI for me? The car is still immobilised and now I see the yellow check engine light on on the instrument Cluster.

SEE THE FAULTS

BUILT IN SYSTEMS INTERFACE

FAULTS READING
PERMANENT FAULTs: 1. COMMUNICATION ON WIRE DATA OF THE COMFORT VAN
2. COMM ON THE DATA WIRE OF THE AIR BAG ECU
3. ABSENCE OF COMMUNICATION WITH THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT
4. MEDIUM SPEED FAN CONTROL

REMOTE PERMANENT FAULTs: 1. COOLANT TEMPERATURE INFORMATION. INCORRECT VALUE RECEIVED
2. VEHICLE LONGITUDINAL ACCELERATION INFORMATION. INCORRECT VALUE RECEIVED
3. VEHICLE SPEED INFORMATION - INCORRECT VALUE RECEIVED

INTERMITTENT FAULTs: 1. TRANSPONDER IDENTIFIER NOT RECEIVED
2. RH DIRECTION INDICATOR LIGHT
3. BATTERY CHARGE
4. LAMP LIGHTING CONTROL

@ Everybody: HEEELLLLPPP!! before I faint O!

Thanks to you ALL

* Transponder Identifier not received
* Absence of communication with the Engine Management.

I think you should concentrate on the above, because thats whats stopping the car from starting.

Did you switch the car key plip with another? If you did, did you transfer the transponder in the plip? Note that transponder is different from remote. Remote only locks and unlocks the doors. While the transponder works with Aerial around the key switch, under the steering wheel, for your car to start. The Aerial around the key switch recognises the transfer code when the key is around the key switch. The Aerial then signal to BSI unit that the transponder or key is the right key. The BSI now signals to Engine ECU to start and run the engine when the engine is cranked. So if the Aerial didnt get the correct code from the transponder or if the transponder is missing from the key plip, the Aerial will signal to BSI "wrong code" and the BSI will älso signal to engine to engine ECU "wrong code". When the engine ECU receives such signal from the BSI unit, it will lock itself. No matter how you try, the engine will never run untill the BSI receives the correct code from the Aerial via the right transponder with the correct key security code for the code. Also note that the BSI will switch on the immobilizer when it receives wrong code. It was programmed this way to prevent your car from been stollen.

So there is absence of communication with the engine ECU because the transponder is having issue with the BSI unit. Open that plip with a flat screw driver, to be sure the transponder is still there.

If the transponder is still there, you may have to recode the transponder again. You will need the security key code that comes with all BSI lions. Do you have yours? If you do, scratch it. You will find 4 digit codes hidden. Thats the code you will key in while recoding the transponder with PP2000. Without that code, you are in for trouble.

When you clicked on 406 on PP2000 folder, which on the list did you click on? 406, 406R, 406 coupe or 406 coupeR? You should click on 406R, since yours is D9. The 406R means 406 Restyling, that is, face-lift 406. While 406 is the D8. If you click on the 406 for D9, your engine ECU wont appear in the listed ECUs. You have to click on the correct phase of your 406 for your engine ECU to appear for fault reading.

I recently posted a Youtube link on how to open a 406 key plip and transfer the remote stuff and transponder to another case. It will help you to know what the transponder look like and where to find it in the plip.

As for the Battery charge fault, have you tried another fully charged battery. Note that a not fully charged battery will never start an EFI car. All the sensors and ECU needs the required voltage to start the engine. If less, the engine wont start, unless jerk started, i think.

Goodluck.

Ikenna.

filcast: hi house,
am so happy to visit this section.I wish i got here earlier.am amazed at the level of knowledge displayed by Ikenna & co.
I own a 306 98 model,french made,auto which i bought fairly used in 2009.Pls how do i get to know more about this car as the technicians keep confusing me with the details.I have been told the car uses a 406 engine. Funny enough, i am yet to come across a 306 saloon with auto system.The vin is VF37BRFVP32337111.

FInd details of your car below:



1. Vehicle Family: 306 (Restyling) 4 door Saloon.

2. Warranty Start Date: 25/03/1998.

3. Engine: XU 10 J4R.

4. Badge: XT.

5. Driving Position: Left Hand Drive.

6. Fuel: Lead Free Petrol.

7. Fan: 2 Fans, 2 Rates.

8. Gearbox: BVA 4HP14 (Auto gearbox 4-speed).

9. ABS: With ABS brakes.

10. Etc.



So, yes, some I4 406s (Both D8 & D9) have the same engine in your 306.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: @ Ikenna. read somewhere on this thread about the danger of using spray-pump(while washing) on 406 engines, something about water gettin into some not-water-friendly-parts. Am hoping to receive delivery of my new fox and would want to give it a welcome shower. Any useful information would be appreciated. Tanks

@ House. Expect pictures of my new fox sooooooooooooooooon!!!

Well, if you must wash with pressured water pump, the Alternator must be well covered with plastic leather bag. Also, water must not enter your bellhousing (for manual transmission). It could ruin the throw out bearing.

The engine ECU is in plastic box, on the right side, behind the right side headlight. The platic box should prevent water from entering it. But i would cover that box with plastic bag to be on the safe side. Likewise, the BSM, 2nd fuse box, in the engine bay is in a plastic box, behind the battery box. I would cover the box too. Note that the BSI, Immobilizer and engine ECU gets its power feed from the BSM. Dont play with that box.

Thats all i can think off right now. Looking forward to see your FOX pics.

Ikenna.

CHIMCO: What they did was conversion or construction. They put in Camery Toyota engine, which hardly overhit. It is now Chrysler car with Camery Toyota engine.

Are you saying Toyota Camry engines hardly overheat? Seriously? So all the threads and posts in Car Talk about Toyota Camry overheating issues are what then?

Please, tell me something else i dont know about Toyota Camry engines. Hardly overheats indeed!

Ikenna.

MovingTrain: On the abuse part sir, you are not so far away from the truth. My dad at a point patronized road side, query qualified auto mech/technicians.
As at the time the stepper motor was changed, my 306 was having idling issues as you rightly pointed out sir.
My biggest question now sir is how to revert all this. I don't stay in Abuja to bring it to you. I work in Enugu.
Please help.. Then peradventure all this sensors you mentioned have been butchered off, what next? Would they be so very expensive to replace?
I really want that baby back. Here are some pix..

I plan to travel to Enugu next month, July, if my annual leave app is granted. So, if it works, we will meet.

First, you need the wiring schematics of that engine. I dont know where you can get it, probably at Peugeot forums. But you need to know what engine is in that engine bay. Send me your VIN, hopefully i can get the engine model from Peugeot database with it.

About the cost of those sensors, the most expensive one among them is o2 sensor. It cost 15-17k, if yours has universal Bosch o2 sensor, which has 4-wire connector.

Ikenna.

MovingTrain: Its injector sir

Then, i believe your 306 is suffering from abuse. Since its EFI, then it should have oxygen sensor. If its not there, then the o2 harness must have been butched out. No matter what you do, the car will continue to emit black smoke and consume fuel like hell untill the ECU starts receiving signal from o2 sensor.

What about your CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor)? Has it tested the sensor values with DMM (Digital MultiMeter)? This will give you a similar symptom if it fails.

Stepper Motor has nothing to do with the car issues. The stepper Motor replaces IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) on that engine. It supplies extra air when throttle body butterfly closes to ensure uninterrupted smooth engine idling. A faulty Stepper Motor will give you all sorts of symptoms like hesitation, stalling or rough idling, but not black smoke. Cleaning the stepper motor with carb cleaner will bring it back to perfect shape, just like IAC. Replacing it is a waste of money, unless something mechanical got spoilt in it while bringing it out.

How are sure your engine harness has not been connected wrongly on some sensors?

To cut the story short, if you stay in Abuja, bring the car to me and i will fix it for you. Excessive fueling is one of the easiest manual troubleshooting am very good at. But only if the engine harness connections are still connected as factory. Otherwise, you will need the Electrical workshop manual to revert the connections to factory, before troubleshooting starts.

Ikenna.