₦airaland Forum

Obose: Hi peugeot lovers, pls i need urgent help. my nephew have damaged the transducer key for my 206CC and now the key no longer starts the car. I have been told that I need a new key and after buying the new key, it will have to be programmed. I dont even know where to start from. anyone with useful information please. and where can i buy/program the key? what information is required for programming, etc??
Thanks.

With PP2000, you can recode a new transducer to work with your BSI.

I don't understand what you mean by "damaged the transducer"? Is the transducer still inside the plip? How was it damaged?

Ikenna

emychukwu: Hello house pls help me here, jst bot a 307 from a military man, everytin is gud shape bt diaz a lil p..wen I press d lock botton, its lock and open back..I discovered dat d boot catcher is bad which I changed bt d same problem..pls can someone give me a lead on wot to do cos d boot can't pen, it was discovered dat d current isn't getting to d boot catcher..thanks

Since you dont have PP2000 (which it seems), I would advice you reset BSI unit. We recently discussed how to reset BSI in the house. You will find it.

Hope no wrong connection has been done on that car electrical system? Try the reset first.

Ikenna.

Gel cell battery, commonly known as Dry Cell Battery, is a good alternative to the wet cell battery, but not more durable as people would claim. A dry cell battery is not heavy as the wet cell battery counterpart, hence, less weight, better fuel economy. You could leave a car sit around for a month or more, without starting it. But ad soon as you turn the ignition key, the engine would crank as if you just used the car the previous day (depends on how or what gadgets it powers while engine is off).

Make no mistake, the moment a dry cell battery discharge completely, thats the death of the battery. Yes, you could recharge and still crank the engine with it, but anytime it stays more than 24 hrs without recharging it, it discharge completely again. Unfortunately, almost all dry cell battery in Nigerian market are fake. The only difference is how fake yours is. You may leave a particular brand of battery in a car for a month without disconnecting or starting the car, but would crank the engine well next time the ignition switch is turned. The next 6 months or 1 year, you buy that same brand of battery, leave it for 2 weeks without recharging and the battery will simply discharge, to the point that it may not even power your radio.

A dry cell is maintenance free, meaning, mount and use until it dies. Once they completely discharged, they are gone. For example, if my alternator belt breaks, i wouldnt bother driving it home with the battery been discharged, because doing that means replacing the battery while replacing the broken belt (if my water pump is not driven by the broken belt). But its not the same case with the liquid acid battery. They have claimed that the indicator on the battery will show when the battery has discharged or died. Unfortunately, it doesnt work (for those in our markets, anyway). Your dry cell battery will discharge, you check the indicator,and it will be showing dark green colour. Am yet to find any dead dry cell battery with the indicator any other colour other than green. If yours have done that, you must be one of the luckiest person that have owned a genuine dry cell battery in Nigeria.


Wet cell battery (aka acid battery) is a non-maintenace free battery. The liquid inside is renewable, meaning, if the battery discharged, you simply renew the liquid inside and your battery comes back to live, like when it was new. With a wet cell battery, you drive home or to a safer place, if stranded on highway or no-mans-land, to replace a broken alternator belt. Renewing the fluid inside the battery will bring your battery back to live.

Wet cell battery is OEM battery for most cars, irrespective of brand. The car manufacturers use wet cell battery in their brand new cars on sale. Dont tell me they dont know dry cell battery exist. Dry cell batteries are mostly aftermarkets. In some car forums, some members have claimed their batteries their cars came with lasted more than 6 years. Some, 10 years. Now what is not durable about it?

Wet cell battery hates to be left unused. They are designed to be used once after the first charge. If left unused, the liquid inside will start damaging the cells inside. So leaving them for weeks or months without use is not ideal. Its better you give it out to be used by someone else pending when you are ready to use the car again, than leaving the battery in the car, whether connected or disconnected.

Wet cell battery has the tendency to spillout acid on the chassis, which will eat up the chassis, if you know what i mean. Thats why most car manuafacturers provide plastic box to house the battery, protect and stop the liquid from touch any metal part of the car.

I could go on and on, but to me, both have their advantages and disavdvantages, no matter how you want to look at it. Dry cell battery is good, but there is nothing wrong with wet cell battery either.

Note that Hybrid battery is exlcuded in my explanation above.

62 Ah dry cell battery cost 10k here in Abuja, while 75 Ah dry cell cost around 13k. Wet cell 62 Ah battery cost around 5k or so. Then, it may cost you additional 1k or so to fill the battery with the fluid and charge it for 12hrs before first use.

Ikenna.

Lovetinz: Dry cells are better.
They last long if they are not abused

I dont think so.


Ikenna

Peugeot: Pike Peak Adventure 2013, USA.

http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2635-pikes-peak-adventure-2013/?p=19759


Ikenna.

ZIM DRILL: i did not scan with a universal tool but with the actual procedure from honda service manual book (paper clip trick )thats the same method i used pull out the abs code so am sure that there are no stored codes i even used the honda method to erase codes then drove it till it lost gears then scan again still there was no code

Then maybe the car is charmed after all. Hehehe!

Ikenna

Maybe, the car has been charmed. Just kidding!

The thing is, not all codes stored in the ECUs will lite MIL. In such situation, the univeral or generic scanner wont see such codes. It will report "no error code found" even though the codes will be though. Only a special scan tool designed and produced specifically for Honda or Acura can pull such hiddrn codes. For example, i do find intermittent and permanent fault each time i scan my Lion with PP2000 (Peugeot Planet 2000), a special scan tool for only Peugeot & Citroen. Yet, the check engine light wont be on. But when i scan with universal scanner, I will get "No error code found". I want to believe that Honda may have such scan tool. Find it and scan the car with it, you will be surprised other codes you will pull out, other than codes relating to the auto trans issue.

But i could be wrong, though. There could no auto trans error code stored. And if that is the case and if the culprit is not engine related or sensors, then am afraid, the transmission may have been saying "bye-bye" to you all these while.

Ikenna

I recently gathered that in 406, only the petrol 4 cylinder D9 got the AL4 transmission. All D8 and D9 V6, including the Diesel ones, were fitted ZF 4HP20 auto box instead, which seem to be more reliable than the AL4. So, now we know.

Ikenna.

ZIM DRILL,

Unfortunately, am the wrong person to offer suggestions to auto transmission issues. I have no interest in what goes on in those boxes. For that, i know little about them. How i wished i could help.

I would adviced that you widen the search to your auto trans issue by not limiting the search to only 2 forum members. You never know who may know what truly is wrong with your transmission. Goodluck.

Ikenna

smartchoice: ikenna do you remember this post

Yes, I do.

My first thread in Nairaland, which was what brought me to Nairaland in the first place.

The moment you gather courage to deal with a challenge, a responsibility, thats the moment your success in life starts. The moment you decide to face your nightmares and deal with them, thats the moment a man is born. The moment you understand your car and starts taking care of it, thats the moment you deserve to own that car.

There are stories about me and this car, My Baby, this thread didnt capture. Stories that made me become so attached to that car, which i dont even know where to start. That car made me what Iam today in Auto world.

Ikenna

Irwindickson: Thanks guys, i did a scan twice, no code stored, check light is off. I removed the harness for the TPS and drove it, gear wasnt selecting properly, had to plug it back. when warm, Rpm stays at 1k when its on drive and ac on, once the Ac thermostat switches off the Ac, it goes above 1k, and when on neutral, it goes to 1.5k. Have changed 3 CTS from last week, still same. car doesnt idle well till the car is warm(noticed it runs great when the temp guage reaches the halh way make). Before it gets warm, high fuel consumption, bucking, no stalling though.

I wouldnt have bothered with TPS, if i were you. TPS has nothing to do with the symptoms your car is having. I wouldnt test my TPS if my car was rough idling. I would check my TPS if my car acceleration becomes very poor. Unplugging TPS connector would make the idle speed go high, but not rough idling, at least for Peugeots anyway.

I dont know about your car ignition system, but 1k rpm is way too high for me, not to think of 1.5k rpm.

You still havent answered us if the car has IAC. If yes, when was the last time you cleaned it, including the throttle body? Did anyone tampered with the throttle butterfly factory adjustment? I would check these out to figure out the high idle speed.

MAF? What system does your car have? AFM, MAF or MAP? Trust me, when MAF fail sometimes, you wont get the check engine light on the cluster. Troubleshooting MAF can a headache, unless you have the special tool or know the special method of testing MAF, especially the Bosch MAF. Its adviceable to have a spare MAF. It comes handy when troubleshooting a rough idling issue, even when you dont get check engine light. You simply swap in the spare, clear codes and restart the car. If improvement is observed after some minutes of engine running, then you have found your culprit. Or you carry out MAF test, if you know the method of testing the one or brand in your car or if you have the tool (like PP2000 for Peugeots).

Vacuum leak. A tiny leak on vacuum line would make an engine idle badly, but would idle normal when engine warms, depending the spot of the leak. Tiny leak tends to seal off when engine gets high (hoses will become softer and close up some small or tiny holes or leaks), but will expose the leaks or holes again when the engine becomes cold again. Such leaks can be very difficult to detect, since its not permanent. But there is nothing carb cleaner cant do in this regard, as long as engine is still cold.

Try the above. Goodluck.

Ikenna

Sounds like CTS, o2 or MAF/MAP issue. Both needs to be tested to know which is faulty. But if you cant troubleshoot manually, i would suggest you scan the car.

When you said the car accelerates on its own when warm, how exactly do you mean? The idle speed increases without your input or it stays as high as 1k or 2k rpm at idle and remain there when engine is warm or it keeps going up till it reaches the red zone? Does the car have IAC? How dirty or clean is the throttle body?

Ikenna

samoy: Thanks for ur quick response. There are 3 relays beside the fan behind the grille. One of these relays is actually connected directly(the blue-middle) cos anytime my radiator fan stop working, this relay will have to be changed and the fan will start working. What can I do to restore my fan to factory settings? Is there any manual that can guide me on this? Or will u be in lagos very soon? Gracias

Hmm! They really butchered that harness. No mercy!

Anyway, yes, with the wiring diagram/schematic, you can reverse it to factory connection. I have the D9 XU10 & EW10 wiring diagrams and Schematics. It has been provided by one of us in the house, either part of owners manual or workshop manual.

Note that D9 XU10 has 2 fans, while D9 EW series has 1 fan. So you should look for the wiring schematic of your engine.

If you were in Abuja, I would have asked you to bring the car over my place. It will take me less than 20 minutes to reverse those wrong connections to factory.

From the pics, we could see that only one relay is left, while the other were removed. You need to buy and put back the missing 2 relays. Whatever you do, do not buy new one of that relay. Talking from experience. Its 5-pin Bosch relay. Used one of that relay cost between N250 - N500 here in Abuja. They hardly fail.

As for when next I will be in Lagos, I have no plans for now.

Ikenna.

ribechi: I throwing this open T̶̲̥̅Ơ̴͡ everyone here. How is the Toks (tokumbo) version of Toyota Camry? I wana shop for a car as it will aide my job function.

How much is Tokunbo Toyota Camry? Emm! Let me see! Toyota Camry production started in 1982. So i guess thats the one you are asking for? So, whats the price of Toyota Camry 1982 model? Hmm! *scratch my head* Maybe only Babalawo can answer that.

My point is, help us to help you, by being specific. If you dont know the model year, you can give us the aka: Orobo, pencil light, fish light, big for nothing, muscle, etc, we will understand.

Ikenna.

Whatever you do, next time, dont wash that engine with high pressure water. You are lucky that it cost you only clutch plate this time. You may not be that lucky next time. Some people have ended up not getting their cars to start again because they wanted their engine bay to look the same way it were when the car was driven out of show room. There are better ways of washing your engine or keeping it clean other than that method that put your car in that condition.

Ikenna

Sounds like a slippery clutch issue.

Usually, washing engine with pressure water would dump water into the bellhousing and flood the throw-out bearing in manual trans car. It would send the bearing to its early grave. So, be ready to replace the throw-out bearing too, you are on a borrowed time, unless you are a very lucky guy. I would find it strange if that amount of water entered the behousing, soaked and damged the clutch plate but didnt touch throw-out bearing. Its a bearing, designed to be spinning while constantly greased or at least oiled, not to be lubricated with water.

Anyway, if what you decribed is how your car is truly running now, i would suggest clutch job.

Ikenna

samoy: Hi Ikenna, thanks for the good work. pls, can u guide me on how to restore my radiator fan to factory settings as it is now running on relay. please, help me.

Its not something i can guide you from here, since the fan relay wires are been butchered or bypassed differently by our clowns. Its something i need to see before telling you what to do. The fan relay housing is behind the front grille. They should be 3 relays.

Ikenna.

guysmilee134: Hi thanks for the good job at guiding us. pls can u check this VIN for me. Vf38b3fzf81419783. have a nice sunday

Details below:

1. Vehicle family: 406 (Restyling/D9) 4 Door Saloon.

2. Warranty start date: 04/12/2001.

3. BER: e2*98/14*0089*00.

4. Engine: EW12 J4, 2.2 L, 16v, 170 hp, etc.

5. Transmission: 5-speed manual gearbox, BVM5.

6. Body colour: Rhodes Blue.

7. Interior Trim type: Leather.

8. Fuel: Lead Free Petrol.

9. Fuel Supply cut off: without.

10. Fan: 1 Fan 350W.

11. Clutch: Hydraulic.

12. Tyre (size, type): 205/55 R16 W tyre.

13. ABS: with ABS brakes.

14. Anti-theft device: standard.

15. Brake type: Ventilated front discs/rear discs.

16. Electronic Stability Program (ESP): Without.

17. Windscreen wiper: front wiper with rain sensor.

18. Front Foglamp: Available.

19. Sun Roof: fixed roof/without.

20. Front seats adjustment: Manual control.

21. Front seats Armrest: Fitted with armrest.

22. Special Lighting: Daylight Running Lights.

23. Etc.



Ikenna.

cretin: the thread...what did you do to your car today...
the moderators have killed the spirit of that thread as people are tied of posting...cos whats the use of posting if ur post will be hidden by the moderator?..nairaland moderators..methinks you guys need to check out other car forums and see how things are done....this incessant post hiding isnt a good idea...at all

Well, am sorry that you felt that way about that thread. I will explain why those posts were hidden.

Fortunately, i belong to not less than 10 online French car forums. So, i know very well how things are done in online car forums.


For example, in 406 coupe club, the forum is broken down into various sections:

1. Petrol section.
2. HDI section.
3. Transmission.
4. Brakes.
5. Steering, suspension, wheels and tyres.
6. Electrical.
7. Body & Interior.
8. Security systems.
9. Project section.
10. Etc.

Now, in that forum, you are not allowed to post HDI issue in Petrol section. The petrol section is where all issues or discussion about petrol engines used in 406 coupe are discussed. Not even brake issues or headlight issues are allowed to be discussed there. So, if a member or a new one wants to find a solution to his petrol engine issues, he visit petrol section. Likewise, issues concerning other parts of the cars are sought in their respective sections.


In 505turbo forum, they have the following sections:

1. Build/project discussion/section.
2. 50x series discussion/section.
3. 40x series section.
4. General Peugeot discussion.
5. Exterior.
6. Interior.
7. Etc.

In the above forum, you are not allowed to discuss 505 in 40x series thread. Likewise, the other sections.


The thread you were referring to have those hidden posts because members were derailing that thread with good posts in a wrong thread. The thread is about what we do to our cars on daily basis, for those who wants other members to know about them. But some of us suddenly turned that thread into a Truck thread, simpmy because a member posted what he did to his truck on a particular. Yes, we could comment on what he did to his/her car as stated in the post, but when members now start discussing about that particular car and how to do some modifications on such cars and all that, is taking away what the thread was created for. We could as well modify the thread to read " Truck thread" or "How to modify Truck suspension, headlight, brakes, etc. The truck posts took, if not, more than a page. We can always open a thread to discuss about our trucks or SUVs, but not in that thread, please. Its like going into benz thread and start discussing Peugeot. Otherwise, why was the thread created specifically for Benz discussion, yet the Peugeot owners goes in there and messed it up.

The truth is, we are finding it difficult to adjust to the forum rules, which we have been negleting in Car talk, which other sections have been implementing. We have been violating the forum rules against derailing threads, myself included. When i realised the mistake and have been trying to correct it, we find it strange or bully on my part to implement such forum rules. Or we are saying posts are not hidden in other sections? Are we saying Cat Talk should be excluded from the forum rules?

Lets always try and post on topic so that those our informative good posts wont be removed, hidden or deleted, if posted in a wrong thread. There is always appropriate thread to post on. Or we can always start a new one, if not found in Car Talk Library.

Moderator.

Val2001: Thanks so much. The blue cap is actually broken and the seal is gone. I tried to fill coolant containe but it start leaking when it is close to full. I will buy one tomorrow. I will check the engine series. I think the oil is ok.

In that case, you will need to bleed the cooling system after refilling with with coolant. If you dont, the coolant will still flow out of the container cap once the engine warms, because the air in the system will make the coolant to overboil while engine is running and it will force itself out of that cap.

Also, if the radiator fins is clogged, the coolant will flow out of that cap when the radiator fan stop spinning, but will stop flowing out of that cap as soon as the fan starts spinning. I would advice you use pressure water and blow the radiator fins. Take the car to a car wash, remove the front grille, cover the Alternator very well with leather/plastic bag and tell them to blow the radiator fins from the front opening where you removed the grille. You need to be there to observe. Watch the water coming out behind the radiator in the engine bay until it looks clean, you can then tell them to stop. The cleaning should take 5 mins or more, depending on how clogged or dirty the fins are. The cooling will improve after the wash. Its always advisable to blow the radiator fins with pressure water machine once in a while. You dont have to wait for symptoms of clogged radiator fins to show up before you take it for washing. Thats preventative maintenance. The washing shouldnt cost more than N500, since they are not washing the entire car. I wash mine too.

If your engine is EW series, it should have 2 bleed screws: 1 on the heater matrix tube on the firewall and the 2nd one on the thermostat housing. The bleed screw on the t-housing is 5.5 mm Allen Bolt. You will need 5.5 mm Allen key to slack it open. The blew screw on the firewall is a black knob. You can turn or open it with your hand.

Note that if your engine is ES series (V6), it will have 3 bleed screws: 2 on t-housing and the remianing one on the heater matix tube on the firewall.

If you dont know how to bleed a Peugeot, let me know when you are ready, i will guide you.

*Note that Peugeot engines are bleeded differently from some of other brands.

Ikenna

@ Val2001,

I believe you meant you opened coolant container/expansion cap, because no D9 has radiator with cap.

The fluid/water must be leaking out or entering somewhere. Have you tried to find the leak source?

Is the coolant container cap seal still ok? Do you know the seal looks like on the cap? I would you remove yours and take to a a Peugeot shop, ask for a new cap and compare the two. You will see the black seal on the seal. Check if yours is still there. If the container cap seal breaks, coolant or water will start flowing out from that cap as soon th engine warms, until the fluid in the cooling system dries off. It could cost you your head gasket or cylinder head.

Have you checked your oil dipstick? Whats the oil colour on the dipstick? Whats the level of the oil on the dipstick? Overgauged?

By the way, whats the engine series in that engine bay?

Ikenna.

https://www.nairaland.com/1317206/official-nissan-infiniti-thread

https://www.nairaland.com/1004758/car-keyless-entry-remote-control


Ikenna

https://www.nairaland.com/1317206/official-nissan-infiniti-thread


Ikenna

I forgot to add,

Pull out the connector on the TPS, check for corrosion and clean with electric contact cleaner or alcohol (dont clean plastic connectors with carburetor cleaner, it will damage them). Push back in the connector and see if any change when you start the car.

Ikenna.

@ 9icetoo,

Its possible that your 2AZ FE doesnt have IAC. After all, my ZN3J has one, while my ES9J4S doesnt have.

In the absence of IAC and since you have ruled out your MAF, i would suggest you concentrate on Vacuum leak and TPS.

I would guide you how to test TPS with DMM, but my ZN3J has throttle switch and not TPS. Though the testing method with DMM is similar with TPS, but the values differ. You can check online on how to test TPS of your engine, that is, if your TPS is adjustable. Most older cars have adjustable TPS, meaning, all needed to be done is to test and re-adjust them when they go out of adjustment. But some newer cars, if not all, have non-adjustable TPS. Meaning, once they give less values to the factory values, you simply replace them, unlike adjustable ones which you simply re-adjust them and get your factory values back. Those where days when car manufacturers pay more attention in producing durable cars, meaning, you dont have replace some sensors when they fail. Cleaning or re-adjusting them bring them back to live. But now, they are not only interested in selling their cars and making profit, but also in making profits in car parts selling. After all, the more those sensors or parts fail, the more profit for them as they sell those parts out. It has also makes Aftermarket business more profitable these days.

Ikenna.

https://www.nairaland.com/597009/toyota-rav4-2001-2003-auto


Ikenna

CTS will signal to ECU to increase fuel spray into combustion chambers in cold start, but not as high as 2k rpm. At most, it should be 1k rpm. I maynot know all car brands and models ignition system set up, but 2k rpm at cold start is odd. Peugeots dont rev beyond 1k rpm at cold start, unless there is an issue with signals ECU receives from IAC, MAP or TPS.

Vacuum leak:
A leak on the intake manifold, expecially where it joined/bolted on the cylinder head. A leak on any of the vacuum lines would give one such symptom. An unplug or not well clamped vacuum line would do the same. A leak where throttle body joined the intake manifold will give such system.

How do you troubleshoot vacuum leak? Get a carburetor cleaner, start the car, spray the carb cleaner on suspected places. The engine sound will rev higher when you spray it on the spray spot. Note that this must be done when engine is still cold. Trust me, you dont need go spray carb cleaner on hot intake manifold, if yours is not plastic. A hot engine will make cylinder hot. A hot cylinder head will make non plastic intake manifold hot. Carb cleaner shouldnt near this things when they are hot, unless you plan to risk burning that engine or car to ashes.

MAP/MAF/AFM:
Will detect an unwanted extra air in the system if there is a vacuum leak, and signal to ECU to add more fuel to compersate, hence, the high rev.


TPS:
Your Throttle position sensor, if out of adjustment will cause some running problems for the engine, since it signals wrongly to ECU the position of the throttle body butterfly. If yours is potentionmeter, check it with Digital Multimeter to know if it still sends correct values to ECU when butterfly moves. I can teach you how to do that, if you are interested. Note that a faulty or improper adjusted TPS will affect the cars aceleration adversely (the car will be slugish or wont be quick as it used to). So, TPS maynot be the cause of your engine high rev, if the dull acceleration is not happening. Well, in EFI car, a component can cause a lot of issues not expected to cause. Eliminate all.


IAC:
I would suggest you pull out your Idle Air control valve, clean it with carb cleaner, allow it to dry, lubricate the valve inside and mount back, making sure that the gasket is sti intact, if it has one. A clogged IAC is will give you such high symptom you guys are experiencing. IAC is a solenoid (for peugeots) and When the insides of the solenoid gets clogged with oil from crankcase breathing tube (or otherwise), the valve inside the solenoid becomes sticky and wont return or close completely when the engine starts and run for few seconds, depending on how cold the engine is. Cleaning and lubricating the valves will ensure the valve closses when it should, to avoid allowing additional unwanted air when engine is at idle.


Throttle Body,
Pull out the intake tube from air filter box and clean the throttle body thoroughly with carb cleaner, allow to dry and put back the intake tube and clamp it well. Throttle body is supposed to be cleaned once in a while, so that the butterfly opens and closses properly, to prevent unwanted extra air passing the throttle body butterfly into the intake manifold, when only IAC should be supplying air to sustain engine speed, without dropping below 700 rpm, depending on car's ignition set up.


I would advice you start with check for vacuum leak and IAC cleaning. Good luck.

*Note that above is how i would troubleshoot my lions if they get such symptom you guys have complained here.

Ikenna.

talktojoe64: No, the check engine lite is not on. After revving its self, it dies down on its own. This happens only when i have driven the car for sometime times and park to shop maybe. if i come back and start the car it starts revving itself.

Its not normal.

Ikenna.