₦airaland Forum

@ Kadbus,

You need to also test your CTS with DMM, to be sure its not the cause of the rich running and not the oxygen sensor.

In fact, the best is to scan the car (better if its pp2000). There are other components that can cause rich running other than o2 sensor and CTS, when faulty.

Ikenna.

yanmata: @Ikenna and co, I own a pug 407 6 speed manual. I notice when engaging the 4th gear it makes this 'greeeee' sound before it enter... I mean ir doesn't engage smoothly like other gears in motion.

As someone who is conversant with car, my 1st suspecion is the cluch, I checked if its leaking or the pedal is lowered down, that was ok too. I went to check the gear oil n was found to be ok too.

Now the question is what is the Lilly culprit affecting this 4th gear. Could it be the 'brass' inside the gearbox that is damaged? I ruled out the cluch disc n the plate coz there's no resistance or engaging all others gears including the reverse.

I appreciate ur suggestion pls.

If it is yours clutch pressure plate, the gear 1 and reverse wont enter or will be making the same noise.

If this was older Peugeot, i would ask you to check the gear linkages/rod fibers. Been there. But am not sure 407 manual gear set up is the same, since 406 uses cables in place of rods. They do have some pipes with fibers that will make gears difficult to enter if failed.

Concentrate on the gearbox not clutch. The problem could be internal (coming from inside the box) or the gear linkages fibers.

Ikenna

@ Kadbus,

I forgot to fully guide you on how to test oxygen sensor.

Now for Peugeots, they use Bosch universal oxygen sensor, though with Peugeot part number for OEM. Its 4-wire sensor.

Pull out the upstream o2 connectors apart (male & female). On the connector side of the sensor, you will see 1,2,3 & 4 engraved on the plastic connector, marking the pins. Numbers 1 & 2 are for the heater part of the sensor (both will be white colour for aftermarket Bosch o2 sensor).Then on the other connector from the engine wire, Test the pins 1 & 2 with DMM 2 leads. Place 2 of the leads on the pins, set the DMM to 20v and switch on the ignition. You should get 12v on the DMM screen. That means the o2 relay and ground to the heater are ok.

Then the number 3 pin on the connector from the engine harness (not the sensor) is ground too. Place the black lead on that pin, place the red lead of the DMM on the battery + head. You should get 12v as well. Make sure the black lead doesnt touch the number 4 pin while testing this number 3 pin, to avoid damaging the ECU. You dont need to switch on ignition while doing this test.

Then, the number 4 pin is the ECU signal wire. To test this wire, the engine needs to be running and the sensor connected. Unfortunately, there is no space provided to probe in the DMM probe on the connector. So you will need to scrape and expose that wire 4 (the wire will be black in aftermarket o2). Place the DMM red lead on the exposed wire 4 and ground the black lead, while engine is running. You should be getting a fluctuating values on the DMM screen, which i have mentioned in my earlier post. Switch off the car and tape the naked or exposed part of wire 4. That wire must not touch any other naked wire or body of the car, or you kiss your engine ECU goodbye.

Above is how to test o2 sensor with DMM.

Ikenna.

kadbus: hello ikenna,
The high rev hav stopped but i noticed that my check engine comes on and off when i am driving on a sloppy road. And d fox consumes fuel. I am suspecting d o2 censor. How can i test d o2 censor?

o2 sensor can be tested with Digital Multimeter with Millivolts. 2 or 5k DMM should have that feature. The best time to test with DMM is when engine is still cold. You should get .640 mv or so on the ECU signal wire of the o2 sensor, but should be fluctuating though. But if it remains constantly on a value, then its faulty. The engine ECU supplies constant value to o2 sensor when engine is not running, but the ignition is on. But when engine starts, the o2 sensor will reduce the value from the ECU and resend it via ECU signal wire to the ECU, while fluctuating. The heater part of the o2 sensor do fail most of the time, making the sensor not to work. I would also test the wire from the o2 sensor relay and the 2 ground wires on the sensor connector, to be sure the sensor is still receiving supply of 12v from the relay and grounds connectivity.

Or you simply scan the car with PP2000. You can still try universal scanner, even though not all of them reads D9 engine ECUs.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Hope you enjoyed mass Lion King. Read your post and immediately went back to the car, engine still warm and I actually observed that the rpm remained at 700. But abeg no vex,Am not clear as to what constitutes vacuum line in a car. make I no form sey I know am come dey suffer tomorrow... thanks. The 'engine hunting' part is clear to me

Any hose you see in that engine bay that dosent have fluid inside: coolant, fuel, power steering oil, A/C gas, is a vacuum line. Vacuum lines pass only air inside, starting from the tube on Aitfilter box to throttle body and the rest.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: @ Ikenna.

Noticed on routine check of my car this morning that while on idle the rpm fluctuates between 900 and 1000 rpm, not experiencing any rough idling though. Please is that normal? Do have spiritually fulfilling sunday.

Just back from 8am Mass. Good morning all.

Your engine is hunting, usually caused by vacuum leak. I hope you didnt mistakenly pull out any vacuum line and forgot to push it back in properly? Or could it be one of the vacuum lines started leaking? Are you hearing any hissing sound in the engine bay while engine is idling?

When you start your engine first time when its cold, the needle will jump and remain at about 1k rpm for a while. Gradually, it will start descending as the engine warms up, till it gets to 700 rpm or so, depending on the car ignition system set up and remains there. Thats the function of CTS. Because the coolant temperature is cold, the CTS reports that to Engine ECU and the ECU will command injectors to spray in excess fuel, since a cold engine will need more than normal amount of fuel to start and run till it warms up. But as soon as the engine warms up, the rpm will then always stay at 700 rpm anytime you start the car throughout the day, unless the engine gets cold again.

So if you mean your engine speed/sound is jumping up and down, including the rpm, while at idle, then the engine is hunting. Look for an unplugged vacuum line or even sensor. Engine hunt means the engine ECU is doing guess work, trying to stabilize the normal amount of fuel going into the combustion chambers due to incorrect signals its receiving from sensor(s) or unwanted additional air which the MAP will detect and signal wrongly to the engine ECU.

Ikenna.

Ikenna351: Ok. Will PM you the shop number and phone number.

Ikenna.

@ wisesystem,

Have sent you the info.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Wow!!! Great news Brother. Though will be going out on an official assignment for the next three weeks and my car would be parked. But if you could kindly avail me me with the phone number of the part seller and/or shop number at Gudu Market I could get a friend in Abuja to get one for me and send it down to Makurdi, my wife is also a lion lover and wont have problems getting them fixed in the car before my return.

With regards to the colour of the connectors, you are damn right just confirmed that myself with my car some minutes ago. Graciaz!!!

Ok. Will PM you the shop number and phone number.

Ikenna.

@ wisesystem,

I went to Gudu market this afternoon to check for 1628 KN o2 sensor. I found one, not identical but similar: 1628 HQ. Price is 8k.

There were other o2 sensor which they claimed are for EW10. But they only had Bosch part numbers (HW), not Peugeot one. The prices are between 7k and 8k.

I observed something while I was at the market, the color of upstream sensor connector is green, while the downstream sensor connector is blue. So the one you should be changing (Upstream) should have green color connector, not blue. Note that the downstream sensor (blue connector, one after caty, doesn't affect fuel consumption when it fails. Its function is to monitor the catalytic converter and report back to ECU how good or bad the caty is. But the upstream sensor, one before caty (green connector), fine tunes the amount of fuel that goes into the combustion chambers. So when it fails, the fuel consumption increases and you get check engine light on and Anti-pollution fault warning.

I would advice you to be sure the color of o2 sensor connector that will be replaced with the old one. If you use the wrong colour, the sensor wont work. Even the connection is different, even though the connectors match. The upstream sensor value is suppose to fluctuate when engine is at idle, while the downstream sensor value remain constant. You can test that and see for yourself with Digital Multimeter or PP2000.

I believe any Bosch universal 4-wire sensor will work, I think, as long as the connector color matches. Part numbers must not always match for it to work.

*Note that I have checked my D9 V6 oxygen sensors (4 of them) and confirmed the green/blue connector color difference.

Ikenna

kadbus: i changed d spark plugs myself wen i noticed dat d car drags wen acelerated. I noticed dat 1 of d vaccum hose dat goes 2 d tottle housing was not plugged in

So, has the high rev issue stopped?

Ikenna.

kadbus: hello house,

i changed the spark plugs of my fox and noticed that d car will raise by itself without pressing d accelerator. So i called my mech and he said dat he suspect something at d injector end. Pls help me out house.

Check to see if any of the vacuum lines was not properly plugged in or clamped in the engine bay. Also check all the sensors or component connectors on the engine, to be sure they are plugged in well. It could be that the mechanic unplugged something without plugging it back well after the spark plug replacement.

But wetin concern self engine high rev to injectors? This beings called Nigerian mechanics!

Ikenna.

bishopjoe02: buddy i start by giving the definition of hybrid cars, Hybrid vehicles are called hybrids because they use both a small internal combustion engine (ICE) and an electric motor to obtain maximum power and fuel economy with minimum emissions. How they do this varies from one model to another, with varying success.

What all hybrids have in common is the ability to generate electric current, store it in a large battery, and use that current to help drive the car.
Hybrids can also conserve energy by shutting down the ICE when the vehicle is in Park, idling at a light, or stopped in traffic, or when the electric motor’s energy is sufficient to drive the vehicle without assistance from the ICE.

the above list cars in my thread are not rare cars found only in the USA only, these are everyday cars found mostly in Nigeria, just try and take a look at the list again.

did u say ur 406 V6 average 40 mpg, how is that possible, i thot all V6 are fuel sucker.

"What about Peugeot 508 (diesel) that average 74 mpg on highway?" diesel engines are better on the highway and hybrids are better in city, so because of the traffic jam in most city in Nigeria, hybrid cars are still the most recommendable because of their fuel economical ability.
the only issue with hybrid cars is the battery problem, apart from that all other parts are just like the normal car..but diesel cars have high maintenance cost..so every penny you save in diesel you end up spending it in the mechanic workshop.

In other words, you are saying "The most fuel efficient cars in Nigeria" ? In that case, you could be right, since we dont drive diesel cars here. But if you are saying Hybrid cars are the most economical cars in Nigeria (both fueling and repair cost), then you may have to try harder to convince me. All the money the car is saving for you in fueling her, one replacement of battery will consume the whole money saved, if not more. Are you aware that one can get a clean tokunbo car at 700k+, which the hybrid battery cost? It may be cheaper to fuel, but expensive to maintain.

You were right about the cost of running a diesel car (expensive parts), which may end up doing the samething hybrid cars do when they have bettery issues. But, the fact remains that diesel cars consume less than petrol cars, no matter how you want to look at it. Note that we have hybrid diesels as well. So, the hybrid petrol cars and diesel cars are almost the same when it comes to general maintenance cost.

Yes, my D9 V6 has averaged 40 mpg on few occassions when not in the mood for speed on expressways. With manual transmission, you can get amazing fuel economy out of a V6, which depends on your style of driving.

Ikenna

Op,

Don't believe everything you read!

That could be the most fuel efficient cars in USA, but not in the world. What makes you think all cars use in Europe and other continents are sold in USA & Canada? Whoever did that analysis or comparism did that with cars used in USA and Canada as well.

You are talking of fuel efficient cars, yet you excluded diesel cars? What about Peugeot 508 (diesel) that average 74 mpg on highway? And you are saying cars with 42 mpg are the most fuel efficient cars in the world? If that is the case, what about my 406 V6 that average 40 mpg on expressway on average speed (that is, when am not heavy footed)? This is 2000 model car we are talking about and a V6 for that matter. Yet someone is boasting of 44 mpg in a 2012 car and 4 cylinder for that matter?

If we are to say the most fuel efficient cars, then petrol cars shouldnt be in that list. Americans dont drive diesel cars, just like we do in Nigeria. So, thats why that list has only petrol cars.

The title of the topic should be limited to US and petrol should be more appropriate in this case.

Like i said, don't believe everything you read.

Ikenna.

samoy: Ikenna, thanks so much. Pls,wats d meaning of dis 'without' in d VIN check. Also, d website is written in french. How can it be changed to english?

The "Without" means it doesnt have that function or it lacks it.

As for the Service Box, scroll down. You will see Francais, click on it and other languages will pop up. Click on UK English and continue.

Ikenna.

edited.

samoy: Sorry ikenna, d VIN no is VF38BRFRE80972626. Waiting for ur response.

Find details of the above VIN below:

1. Vehicle family: 406 (Restyling) 4 Door Saloon.

2. Warranty Start date: 20/12/1999.

3. Driving Position: Left Hand Drive.

4. Engine: EW10 J4, 2.0 L, 16v, 138 hp.

5. Gearbox: 5-speed Manual transmission (BVM5).

6. Badge: ST.

7. Clutch: Hydraulic Clutch.

8. Tyre (Size, Type): 195/65 R15 H tyre.

9. Wheel (Type): Alloy Wheels.

10. ABS: Available.

11. Anti-Theft Device: Available.

12. Brake Type: Ventilated front discs/rear discs.

13. Dynamic Stability Control System: Without ESP.

14. Driver's/passengers seat control: Manual Control.

15. Compact Disc: Without (Rear).

16. Satellite Navigation System: Without.

17. Coolant Level warning Lamp.

18. Equalizer Amplifier: Without.

19. Fan (Radiator): 1 Fan 350W.

20. Special Lighting: Daylight Running Lights.

21. Set of Keys: 1 HF Plip key + 1 Single Main Key.

22. Etc.



Ikenna.

wisesystem,

One more thing. Honestly, it will be safer to re-do that scan with pp2000 to be sure what you are dealing. The last scan you did, the faults you that came up were stored all the while when the CTS was disconnected. You need to be sure what triggered on the check engine light on again or which of the o2 sensor to replace.

The mechanic should scan it free for you this time to be sure of what he is on the right track. Its what i would do.


Ikenna.

@ wisesystem,

Well, the ASD guy called me and said they dont have the 1628 KN in stock. And that if you are interested, they can order one for you from PAN Kaduna. And that it would cost you N34,600. (almost 35k). He went on to explain why it was out of stock and blah blah blah, which i wasnt interested in. Anyway, thats the update on the ASD motors side.

Then, i decided to find out from a nearby Peugeot shop if they have it. They have the same one i bought in 2011 for my 505 V6, which they claimed was for EW10 (which still work till date). But it has Bosch part number, not Peugeot one. Unfortunately, it wasnt in its pack, where the Peugeot part number should have been written. Anyway, the guy said he would sell at 10k. I dont know how genuine it is, even though he swore it was more original than one in ASD store. Lol! But the truth is, i bought this same part number for my ZN3J at Area 3 new parts plaza at Garki, here in Abuja in 2011, and not from ASD. It still dey serve me o! Even if na fake, it still dey work. Though, i bought it 15k then.

Note that it must not be the exact part number for it to work. After all, i replaced the transducer on my D9 last 2 weeks or so, and the part number was different from the one i removed. Yet its working perfectly. To me, what matters is the connection. If the ECU signal wire on the o2 plug is different from harness plug from the ECU, then it wont work. Always remember that that the black wire is the ECU signal wire on the o2 socket, as far as Bosch universal o2 is concerned.

Does the mechanic sells new parts? How come he has new o2 for sale?

Whichever you choose to buy and install, make sure no one drops it on the ground or throw it about anyhow. It will simply kill the sensor, without even installing it, no matter how new or genuine it is. Its a sensitive and delicate sensor. Let him not touch any oil on it as well or touch it with oily hand. It will contaminate it and may kill it sooner than you expect once installed and powered on.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Mod please dont forget to check the cost of a brand new O2sensor anytime you drive by ASD Motors. Thanks in advance!!1

I just called an ASD motors staff that works in their parts store. I gave him the part number (1628 KN). He said they have 1628 oxygen sensor, but dont understand what i mean by "KN". Well, i told him the engine is EW7. He said since its not PAN production, that he would like to check the VIN and be sure of the part number.

Anyway, he did say the price of 1628 is 32k. Hehehe! But lets hope their 1628 KN will be cheaper, if they have it, that is, if its not the same 1628 he said they have.

Ikenna.

samoy: Thanks ıkenna for ur quıck response. Pls, help me run d VIN of my lıon. The VIN no- VF38BRFN281676188. Thanks

The VIN above you provided is unknown to the database. Check if you got it right.

Ikenna

samoy: Hı ıkenna and others, pls can ı use Total 7000 for my lıon wıth EW10 engıne? If not, whıch one ıs the best? Waıtıng for ur quıck response.

Yes, Quartz 7000 15W-50 is one of the recommended oil for your engine. Even in ASD Motors, a peugeot dealership here in Abuja, it was pasted in their show room that Quartz 7000 is the oil they use.

Note that we have another TOTAL 15W-50 oil grade meant for trucks/SUVs. On the container, its written Quartz 4x4, 15W-50.

Good morning all.

Ikenna.

@ wisesystem,

Your car has 2 oxygen sensors: upstream and downstream.

1. Upstream: part number is 1628 KN.
2. Downstream: part number is 1628 QY.

You need to know which of them that is faulty.

Ikenna.

Siena: That's a very unfair statement, Ikenna. Not everyone who drives (and owns) an automobile knows the various terminology, indeed some don't really care. If someone doesn't know what a certain term means, then simply break it down, so they learn.

No one has a monopoly when it comes to knowledge.

My dad drove for many years, yet didn't know what OHV or a pushrod was. My older brother has a fleet of cars and trucks in Abuja, yet doesn't know what a PTO is. They shouldn't be ashamed of themselves, when I converse with my brother, I break things down, and give simplified versions of technical issues.

When you say someone should be ashamed of themselves because they lack knowledge, it makes you come across as smug, arrogant and egotistical. Share your knowledge, and be all the better for imparting what you know, it's that simple.

Am happy that I have given you that opportunity to speak up on what has been eating you up about "Ikenna351". Am not surprised of your above post, anyway. Just surprised why it took you that long to "get back at Ikenna" for reasons obvious to you, which I sensed long time ago.

Of course, probably I was the only one who saw the statements of Okiju_juju directed at me in that post as mockery. Of course, he wanted me to come back and explain to him what EFI means with those statements of him to me "who banned him unjustly". Yes, he was the only one who saw the "EFI" I used, but chose to ask for the meaning "humbly".

I acquire knowledge everyday; I learn new things above cars everyday, without embarrassing myself of my ignorance. I would humbly seek for explanation or clarification for something I do not know, but ought to have known before now. I would be ashamed of myself to castigate someone who knows something I ought to have known before now publicly. There is a difference between someone who wants to learn and someone who takes acquisition of knowledge for granted. Of course, after his mocking of my post by him, I was supposed to come back and "smile" back at him while teaching him what EFI means? Of course, Ikenna351 is a punch bag that should take every nonsense from everyone, without stating how I feel. I don't blame you!

Like every other poster in the beginning of this thread, I pointed out only one thing that could happen when one swim with his car: Engine Hydro lock. I went on to explain what usually cause it (lower air intake in most modern cars, so that the engine will be sucking cooler air, for IAT to report to ECU to do a better job in its engine management function, a Typical EFI Car). But he didn't care about my opinion on swimming cars in pool of water, but wanted "the moderator that unjustly banned him" to explain how could he knew what EFI means, instead of writing in plain English, as if that my post was directed at him. Like I said, I don't blame you. You have gotten the opportunity you have been waiting for to deal with Ikenna351. And guess what? You have had it!

Siena, am not you that goes about portraying yourself as "Mr. Perfect" or "Mr. Nice guy". Am not that fake. As a moderator, I get insults from members everyday, which members wont even see, since they are been hidden. The least i could do is to hide such posts and ignore the posters. No ban, no warning, nothing. Am a happy man and i don't take such comments seriously. But on few occasions, i would react, because am a human being with emotions that need to be expressed, which would make some of my posts harsh. But that's what makes me human. I don't hide my flaws or short comings. But what do you do? You go about displaying to those you can deceive "I am a God and he is the Devil". Am not one of your worshippers, you know. So, you can find more derogatory adjectives to qualify me. But do I care? I don't think so.

Well, am happy that you have finally done it, which you have been cooking up inside you. Because, i know exactly where you are coming from. But of course, they (rest of the forum members) don't need to know, because it would be so unprofessional on my part to say more than i have done here. Good luck with your campaign.

Don't expect my response to you here again, because I don't plan to derail this thread.

Ikenna.

[quote author=Okija_juju]I'm sorry, but WTF?! HTF am I supposed to knw ETF EFI FMs.. Get it?!

Whats EFI, ECU, VCR, e.t.c.. Can you rewrite this in plain english Mr. Mod who banned me unjustly..

I should ban you for posting in shorthand.. [/quote]Is like somebody missed road here. Or could be that someone couldn't tell the difference between Car Talk and Romance sections? You don't have to embarrass yourself in a section for serious minded ones, you know.

I would be ashamed of myself if I didn't know what EFI means in this era, and yet own an Fuel injected car.

Ikenna.

Itulah: Thanks so much brothers, my Mechanic just came in to toll it to his workshop, I told him all that happen and he said he will contact me later...... Am just so worried

How did he tow the vehicle? Was the front end lifted up? If not, he may end up killing the transmission completely by towing the car, with the front wheels on the ground.

Its advised to tow auto trans vehicle, with the propelling wheel lifted off the ground, since the transmission oil pump is not at work, to prevent severe damage to the transmission, unless for a short distance at low speed. But for an auto transmission with the issue like yours, that risk shouldnt even be taken.

I may not know much about auto trans, but i know about the above.

Ikenna

Your Catalytic converter has failed, i believe.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Sadly ANTI POLLUTION FAULT and CHECK ENGINE light came back on on my way to work this morning, so sad, at least for my pocket. Is evident the reset attempt during the scan yesterday was too late to save my car oxygen sensor which was the only fault detected.
So I ll be changing my Oxygen sensor, my mechanic is proposing I change the sensor closer to the engine, of the two faulty sensors which he says is more related to my fuel consumption. Not comfortable with the idea as I hate cutting corners but will readily buy the idea if its safe as am low on cash.

@ Ikenna what do you think? Safe? Also do you have an idea of the cost of a brand new oxygen sensor, say at ASD Motors. Makurdi to Abuja is quite close and I think Ill be shopping for my parts in Abuja, cant trust auto parts sellers in Makurdi just yet. my mech is calling 15k for a new oxygen sensor. Thanks in advance.

You need to know which of the oxygen sensors that is faulty (upstream or downstream), if your car has two. Didnt he copyout for you the fault he detected when he scanned with it? The catalytic converter monitoring oxygen sensor wont work if installed as upstrem o2 sensors. He should re-scan the car for you for free, since he didnt give write out, for you, the errors the pp2000 pulled out from the engine ECU. You need to be sure what you are to replace to fix the injection issue, even though i earlier predicted that your o2 sensor could have died.

And next time he is scanning the car with pp2000, let him do "Global Scan", to scan other ECUs, other than just engine ECU. Your car should have more than 5 ECUs.

As for the price of o2 sensor in Abuja, i bought the one in my 505 V6 in 2011 at 15k, but not from ASD motors. Last week, i priced it and i was told 10k. I wouldnt know if both were of the quality. I will find out how much it cost at ASD motors and get back to you. But we need the part number. Though, i can get it for you through your VIN, since i still have it. Will get back to you.

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: Thanx bro for this in-depth analogy, I respect your patience and painstaking attitude to explanations. I'ld do exactly as you ve advised. This Bellhousing is it the same as the point where the batt -ve terminates on the engine block? If NO, then how can I locate it. Meanwyl I just got a haynes manual will it show me rather than bother you on every issue.

On the contact cleaner, I will send a few cans to ABJ, then you can show it to those pple selling CARB cleaner and stuff like that, they will be able to get it. Thats what I did, only diff is that I did mouth explanation and only one man could understand and he got it for me. You can send me the nearest park to you so I can easily choose which bus will bring them. Either here or in my box [topeyeye1@yahoo.com], pls add ur num so they can give you a call when it arrives - thats how I do it when sending things to other places never sent to ABJ b4 so dont knw if it will be diff sha.

Thaanx a million times once again!

Bellhousing is what Nigerian mechanics call banjo. Its the housing for clutch components for manual trans: clutch pressure plate, clutch plate/disc & throw out/release bearing. Its also the housing for torque converter for auto trans. It looks like part of the gearbox.

But the transducer is mounted on the gearbox, the differential part of the gearbox, not on the bellhousing. The transducer is the vehicle speed sensor, i believe. The CKP sensor is mounted on bellhousing.

As for the contact cleaner, i will PM you. Thanks.


Ikenna.

RapzyJ: @ IKENNA and Others:
EUREKA!!! Electronic Contact Cleaner by ABRO, USA. Sight pictures below.


@ IKENNA:
BSI RESET PROCEDURE- SUCCESS!!!! The car has started immediately after the BSI reset. Economy Mode Active has also cleared off.

I still have electrical issues, the multifunction display, dashboard display and other elect stuff behaving erratically i.e on and off, when I disturb the fuses under the drivers console they light up and go off again.

From the last scan I had this reading: INTERMITTENT FAULT: Vehicle Speed Sensor- Short Circuit to Earth.

Whats Next?

Thanks a million for helping me on the BSI reset issue!

Congrats for getting your non-start issue fixed. You are gradually getting the remaining issues fixed.

To the best of my knowledge, 406 has 2 speed sensors: Crankshaft Position sensor and Transducer.

1. The crankshaft position sensor, also known as speed sensor or RPM sensor is mounted on the bellhousing (aka banjo). It senses the engine speed (not vehicle speed) via holes on flywheel and signals to engine ECU, which uses the signal received to power the ignition coil and when to spark (i mean the spark plugs).

2. The Transducer is a speed sensor mounted on the differential part of the gearbox. Its located directly behind the hole that the left side (driver's side) drive shaft goes into the gearbox. Its has 3-wire socket (D8 has 2-wire socket). This speed sensor controls the speedometer on the instrument cluster. It also controls the variable power assisted steering in the V6 (speed sensitive steering). The sensor signals to BSI unit in D9 the vehicle speed, which the BSI unit interprets and indicate the vehicle speed via the speedo on the cluster.

So, i want to believe the faulty speed sensor in your case is the transducer. But, it should also indicate on the speedo (not working properly).

Short circuit to Earth means its loosing ground connection. Pull out the connector, clean it with contact cleaner and push it back. You can also do the same on the RPM sensor, though hard to get to in I4 petrol 406. I would advice that you trace the ground connection on the engine block, from the negative battery head. Loose the bolt holding the connector on the block, clean the surface and bolt it back.

As for your other electrical issues, disconnet the negative battery head again (remember the correct procedure for that) and pullout the fusebox under the steering wheel, completely. Pull out the sockets on the fusebox, one after the other and clean them thoroughly with contact cleaner. Check if any of the plugs or sockets is not gripping firmly on the fusebox contact and use tester screwdriver or anything small enough to bring the socket pins closer, to grip well on the fusebox.

Also, pull out all the fuses one after the other, check for rust or corrossion, clean and push back. If any is broken, replace.

While at the fusebox is out, check to see if water is leaking from that side and entering the fusebox. Its a common problem with 406. If you notice sign of water entering from that sid, get a strong plastic leather bag, place it on top where the fusebox is seated, to prevent water entering the fusebox, pending when you sort out the spot the water is leaking from.

Put everything back and reconnect the battery, following the procedure. I believe the issues will be gone.

Ikenna.

RapzyJ: @ IKENNA and Others:
EUREKA!!! Electronic Contact Cleaner by ABRO, USA. Sight pictures below.

Where i go fit see am buy nah?

Ikenna