₦airaland Forum

hello chief

I need a 2007 bmw 320d touring(wagon)
must be diesel, must be automatic

can 1.2 million kill it( landing to my doorstep)?

cyborg123:
Looks better and unique without the vertical strip IMO.

Nope.

ggirl4real:
Our religious folks should come and say they are lieing as usual

According to them - anything that makes the Bible looks untrue is a lie

Religion is created by man to explain what is beyond human comprehension at the time.

sultaan:
I have never seen the gut of a transmission spilled in an accident, that car was built bad.
That is the difference between cheap Asian specs and American spec vehicle and safety requirements

Thought i was the only one that noticed

but structurally, i think the car did ok, given that the 'safety cage' is relatively intact.

SoadAutos:
I may not have a need to call him for business if he did not settle this one... Trust is very key in a relationship. Remember I will send him money before delivery of products and that make me to be at his mercy.
To make the record straight am into Automobile business, I buy servicing parts from him: especially transmission fluid.
What make this whole experience to last this long is because the transmission box that I bought from him is for one of my personal vehicle. You can imagine if this was for a customer of mine, will I be able to wait this long?
You also mentioned the fact that I should wait for him, how can I authenticate his claim that he is busy when 2-5 minutes after he told me he's in the village I ask a friend to call him and he told same he's in the shop and even describing how the friend will get to him.

This is bad

Avedonn:
He might be busy as he told you, and also think you rush into conclusion. You said you've been transacting with him since 2018, and just because of this one incident you're trying to embarrassing him publicly like this?

Luvinhubby is one of the few auto technicians with integrity in this forum and i don't believe he'll scam you.

I concur. I have been dealing with him since 2014 and although we have had few squabbles here and there, he is one of the very few I can recommend on this platform.

Please be patient with him.

Luvinhubby, now that you have been called out, please you need to clear your name.

TheGodlessGod:
like i said if ize iyamu failed to win call me a bastard.

Hello bastard how are you doing

TheGodlessGod:
like i said if ize iyamu failed to win call me a bastard.

Just in case

GAZZUZZ:
Inspected the carbon contact brushes and they still had about 600 more years of life, but they were a bit stiff even though the spring that tensioned them were still functional. So I cleaned out the path where the carbon brushes sit, stretched the springs a bit more , and used sand paper to clean out the copper contact of the armature.


Was also able to sneak in some grease into the bearings

If you know you know

Truly, these cars are bullet proof!

timilehing:
I use Kia optima 2012, the engine was changed in 2018 to 2.0 L Theta II MPI I4. Price was 430k. There's no point buying the 2.0 turbocharged engine. You can also go for the 2.4L engine, it is cheaper.

Was it the turbocharged 2.0l at inception ?

adanny01:
You rebuild is better than this?

But bro this na engine assembly section for vehicle assembly plant na the engine is put together for the first time in its life.

How does it relate to REbuild of an engine?

lyort:
you're nothing short of a charlatan if you mistake emergency repair for actual repairs. comparing a quick fix to your failed temp. sensor in traffic where all you need is just a temporal solution to keep you going to such an extensive repair such as an engine overhaul that should be carried out in a well equipped workshop. talk of emergency repairs, you're an infant to me.

i took off from ilorin in a 2008 camry and had a failed belt, thank God it happened close to a gas station that has a mechanic beside it. boda kazeem had only one used undersize belt that did not fit. what's more important here? water pump, alternator and power steering. i routed the belt to drive these three and left out the compressor and told my commuters, no ac for the rest of the journey

after driving a few miles, alternator failed in the middle of nowhere. i opened the bonnet, got to the fusebox and took out abs fuses and relays, headlamp fuses, trafficator fuses, went to the rear and took out all tail light bulbs, disconnected radiator fans. all that was left to run on battery power was the brainbox plus everything it controls and the fuel pump. i entered lagos after 2hours of driving and battery gave up just as i drove into the compound.

if crude repair is the only thing you can offer if you find yourself in a well equipped workshop, you're amore mediocre engineer. did you leave your car to keep running on the quick fix you did in traffic or you went to the workshop and did a proper replacement of the sensor afterwards.

quick fix can never take the place of actual repairs.

This is how we think as engineers... No apologies ..
It gives me joy when I see like minds like this.

adanny01:
Finally you agree it will work.

Having gone through what op is going through, I tell you for a fact, after the first trip, he will celebrate and his confidence increases with every trip. There is no point putting fear in some one who is already scared of the worst which is engine replacement. Its not as if the engine will fall out of the vehicle.

Be positive for a change.

Agree that it would work? You are a really funny dude.

Don't forget to ask your kazeem if he would touch this engine with a ten foot pole...

Be professional , it distinguishes you.

9icetoo:
They will never understand. Some low mileage cars haves idled for 50,000 hrs in stop and go traffic with oci of once a year. That's abuse. Yet they think 150k highway miles is high mileage. Others think that vin check will show a bad engine. I laugh.

Eg. Police cars in the US.

You are smart.

adanny01:
At the 1st bold, I did it before, didn't I. Why do you think its impossible.

What is the ladder frame exactly that blocks No 2 and 3 apart from the oil pump? How does it prevent you from losing the 2 bolts of the conrod cap from under the engine? Pls on your next post, please get some pics so that I will be convinced. At least, I will learn.

Talking about metallic particles, don't you think the 1zz had metallic particles too. There were actually metal particles. Why is an engine equipped with a filter and filter screens in certain places?

@ second bold, you honestly think that if you rebuild the engine, it will be indestructible, right?

The actual problem is that you are defeated by very knowledge you have. What you think is impossible is actually very possible but the truth is that you have decided not to acknowledge the possibility or at worst are limited by fear beyond the scope of your knowledge.

Who makes the choice here, its the op not you my friend. So why do you cling to your own method saying "no patch patch". Whatever the op decides is his own cross to bear, but you saying no to a possibility is just not acceptable.

I think (I stand to be corrected) slapping a conrod bearing will work, obviously not forever. You know it can work (you call it patch patch) but you still say it must be rebuilt. Can't you see the confusion, the choice isn't yours to make!

Remember, even my Kazeem told me to rebuild but now he does the same procedure on other cars earning money and saving clients from big expenses.

A ladder frame is basically the structural part of the engine block ( usually bolted on) that serves 2 purposes: housing the main crank journals /bearings and providing extra rigidity to the block itself. You can google that for more knowledge on the matter.

Saying I am defeated by my knowledge is quite unfortunate in this discourse. At no point did i say using your band aid fix was not possible, nor practical. I am only explaining here that for best results and peace of mind, work with factory specifications, particularly for the OP's engine. Working with your analogy could easily justify some of these practices our kazeems do ( e.g removal of thermostat and connecting the fans direct , a digression if you don't mind). we know that the car will still work, but not as intended from design. So in a nutshell it is what it is, a band aid fix , which must come with a caveat.

If you ask the owner , i bet he would ask for a solution that would give him peace of mind at the right cost, not one that his heart would be in his mouth throughout the period he owns the vehicle. Infact the only time he would love to cut corners is if he wants to sell the car asap and needs the car in ' run and drive ' condition . So if it is adding paper packing to the conrod bearing that gives him peace of mind, who am i to question him

As for kazeems, ask yours if he would attempt to rebuild this particular engine and hear his response

adanny01:
Initially you said only No 2 and 3 can't be removed but now all.

Ok o!

No be me get car o. No be me be mechanic so which one concern me. Op is following and should choose to either;

1. Slap in new bearings for 50k or less
2. Do your Engineer's rebuild at 400k or more
3. Get a toks engine at 800k

I was just saying that he has a choice but you say he has none.

I made my choice and with the 1ZZ. Even the mechanic who did it wanted me to rebuild but i said no. I never regretted my choice and even he is surprised.

One thing I must reiterate is that, even though Kazeems do a lot of shit, without them, most of us will not be driving cars.

Lastly, being an Engineer means you are a solution provider and doesn't mean you cannot use crude methods to achieve an acceptable result. What is the trial and error if you have a worn out bearing and you buy the same bearing (new) to replace?

If a new bearing as standard is 0.2mm (same as factory) and the crank shaft journal is measured with a micrometer gauge and found to be within factory spec, what trial and error would you say is done?

If the journal is worn by say 0.02mm and you can't find a 0.22mm bearing, can't you provide a solution? If you have a paper that is 0.02mm thick and use it to make up the difference, how much of guess work have you done?

You are misunderstanding me @ the bolded.
I meant to remove all conrod bearings( including 2 and 3 which is not accessible because of the ladder frame) the engine must be dropped from the car , and the ladder frame removed.

First of all, you need to understand the root cause of why this engine failed, to avoid a similar failure after your band aid fix.This I listed and even explained in my prior posts. What if there are metallic particles scattered all over the place as you drop the pan? Do you honestly think slapping new bearings and adding paper to adjust clearance will solve the problem and not make it reoccur when the car is at top speed?

If you understand tolerance in machining and assembly, you will realise that the 0.02mm undersize from minimum required is enough to condemn a crankshaft in some engine designs and cause rod knock. Do you know that , due to high and unpredictable failures of this engine, the engine software of this particular car (2011- 2014 sonata ) was upgraded to make the knock sensors more sensitive to detect rod knock at its early stage? And once it is detected , you will have a flashing check engine light? Now you know.

As per your journal question, the solution is simple, measure , measure, measure! As engineers you were trained to use precision equipment like micrometers to guide you in descion making. There is a reason why engine manufacturers make oversize bearings. It is to cater for scenarios like this.
Once it is out of spec, it is best you replace crankshaft. Some engine designs are more forgiving to your crude methods. Some are not!

Why most people would buy a toks engine is because they want peace of mind . they want what would last, as they trust the process that put the engine together ( and has not been tampered with). An engine built with the right methods , tools and skill would last for years,( raking in thousands of miles) without problems.

There is a difference between a true engineer and an artisan.

Again i repeat, the engine in question must be built right, not patch patch work. You can get away with the band aid fix you did on the Toyota, but not on this Hyundai engine.

lyort:
not someone like me. i'll rather rebuild than manipulate. trust me, engines i rebuild perform better than the tokunbos in the market, unless the owner compromises on payment. i can't do anything less than what the factory recommends unless there's scarcity of parts then i can begin to think of a compromise

That is the spirit

promotervickky:
I can prove you wrong with a lot of evidences

My brother, vin check is not enough.

The surest way is to go to the recall website, input the vin and check the recall history if the engine was affected.

adanny01:
You got my point right this time. Only that you don't think Kazeems can do it without veneer calipers or micrometer screw gauge.

If the conrod bearings are the usual weak spots, then I think it's worth a try since an 800k replacement no be beans. But I still won't advise him to drop off the engine for that. With a gear pump, it means the timing chain and pump must be removed first.

Engine is rotated to bring No 1 and 4 down and worked on and then later engine rotated to bring down No 2 and 3. That's how its done.

The packing is required if the journal is worn given too much clearance to the closest available bearing size. Papers have different thicknesses, so an appropriate one would be chosen and can be folded as required to adjust the thickness.

The packing is placed between the conrod and bearing so it works without hindering any oil flow since oil is needed on the moving face of bearing and journal only. Where a bearing has an oil hole, a hole is punched in the paper.

Every engine requires lubrication, 1ZZ requires it too. If done too tight, yes, 1getting required lubrication would pose a big threat to the crankshaft recreating the problem. This thing requires experience and with the right Mechanic, it can be done if its only conrod. Only that its stressful working under the car.

I think you need to study the anatomy of that engine first before comparison to the Toyota 1zz or Honda k24 can be made.

Replacing the conrod bearings of all cylinders require the engine to be removed, due to a ladder frame used in the engine construction. It is similar to the 1az/ 2az series by Toyota.

If you have metal particles all over the place, it is pointless to just slap in conrod bearings and reuse oil pump/ balance shaft assy. The whole block must be torn apart and cleaned/ soaked in hot bath. Also in that scenario, The oil pump must be replaced, and with a new part to have peace of mind. The amount? 200k. Also remember that the journals must have been scratched and must be smoothened to acceptable levels. Smoothening it using abrasive materials removes ( and reduces) the journal diameter even further to the point that installing bearings with packing may not solve the problem.

Now to bearing clearance. Your method depicts trial and error. I can say that being an Engineer, that would be unacceptable for a precision part hence the need for me to measure using the right tools so I can get it right the first time. Like I said earlier, the precision levels involved here to get the right oil clearance is crazy. Get it wrong and your crank will either seize again due to oil starvation or excessive play that will lead to lack of oil pressure.

Truth is, that engine was poorly designed and manufactured. And Hyundai knows that. That is why till date they still replace the engines in these cars in the US and Canada.

adanny01:
That's not what am saying. Am not talking of rebuilding at all.

What am saying is, if the crankshaft noise is actually worn out connecting rod bearing or crankshaft journals, then the fix is easier which doesn't require the engine to be dropped or rebuilt. Connecting rod bearings and journal are accessible from the sump without dropping the engine. Pls note, I am talking about connecting rod bearings, not crankshaft main bearing or thrust bearings.

I had it done on 1zz and its been 2yrs. In that case, the connecting rod bearings were worn and journal for cylinder 3 was a little out of spec. All the connecting rod bearings were changed to new and number 3 required additional packing. The packing was just paper.

Like I said before, some cars have oil pump that block access, which complicates the process because the pump will need to give way.

The peculiar failure point of this engine is its connecting rod bearings ( usually no.1 and in some cases no2 and 3). In some cases it starts with a knock. In some cases it seizes without warning. What causes the former most of the time is metal shavings present in the crankshaft (as it was not properly cleaned after machining from factory). What causes the latter most of the time is oil shortage ( in which over time will lead to extreme oil consumption that will catch the owner unawares when he runs out of oil, particularly during long distances) due to the very thin piston ring design used in the theta II engine series.

Why am I saying all these grammar? It gives us an insight of how to tackle the issues when working on this engine. The tolerances used on this engine are very tight compared to the 1zz engine. Using 'packing' can completely close up oil film clearance or make it too lose , causing catastrophic drop in oil pressure. The oil pump for this engine is not great. Hence if the rebuild option is the only choice , the crankshaft must be replaced and measured, with bearings sized as per manufacturers spec.
To avoid this happening again, it is also advisable you ring the engine as most suffer from excessive oil consumption once they hit 100,000 miles.

Changing all conrod bearing would require a removal of the engine as there is a ladder frame present that would prevent you from reaching conrod bearings 2 and 3. The oil pump/balance shaft assy is bolted to this ladder frame.

GAZZUZZ:
It has turbo.... ₦800,000k plus

Yeah more like it

adanny01:
The issue with crank shaft is that you hardly can know exactly what the problem is without removing it.

However, since the car is parked at the moment, get a good mechanic to remove the engine sump (bottom plate) and check the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals. You could be lucky if its the connecting rod bearings, you can replace the bearings with a new and maybe pack them. I did same to a car and it has been 2yrs with no issues. Most mechanics will not want to work under the car like that and would prefer to drop off the engine. This procedure could also be complicated by the presence of oil pump in some cars.

If the issue is main bearings or crankshaft main bearing journals, just get a toks engine.

Bros bros

Not with this kind of engine o

Any engine rebuilder that does not have micrometers, callipers, torque wrenches and dial bore gauge (or he has but does not know how to use them) has no business rebuilding these Hyundai engines.

They are very tolerance sensitive and you must respect the specifications as stated in the service manual, if not engine will seize again after 5 km drive

chukel:
ignore that one shouting Vin check up and down. He thinks a vin check will tell a bad engine. Okpo.

No mind them

chukel:
you made a comment and gave an opposite advice. If there is sudden failure at 100k miles, then he has no business buying one less than 100k miles. He should look for one with at least 130k miles.

Boss, that particular engine (2.0turbo) was known to even fail at mileages as low as 60,000 miles. The 2.4 even faired better.

Piston slap, worn crankshaft bearings, metallic particles left over from the factory deburring process on the crankshaft, weak oil pump/ balance shaft design, you name it....

I mean it is rare to see any Hyundai/kia product having this particular engine that exceeded 150,000 miles without engine replacement

Hyundai/kia no try for this one at all for this engine...

GAZZUZZ:
450k plus loading....


Cc inception

Baba this one na the 2.0turbo o

E dear pass the N.A. 2.4 by farrr

aieromon:
The engine is notorious for sudden failures at 100,000 miles. Do not bother with repairs. Get a replacement and please get one verified as low mileage using VIN service history providers.

Even that is not a guarantee

Your best bet....


Source for a used engine.

New engine must have a RED dipstick... NOT ORANGE OR YELLOW. (If you hook me up with Nengi of BBN I will tell you why )

When you are ready, I can help you with the process... Free of charge of course.

If you are in PH I can rebuild the engine for you.

But you go spend o

GAZZUZZ:
The way unna de select rim, last last This life no just balance

From the top left : give me no. 3 and 4. I like my waist full

I too like woman

kingreign:
Keep it simple and classic. Get the RONAL 3 SPOKES

ewww

e no fine

5

Offpoint:
Very dumb write up...
Please don't display such ignorance on foreign forum, they may wonder from which planet you are from.

If a car running at the speed of10/kph hit you will you die? If same car accelerate at 150/kph hits will you survive?

Is like saying water is liquid, it can't cause anything any harm.


Was never a science student, but I'll advise you read about kinetic energy.

A golf ball is enough to destroy the entire planet if the right amount of speed is applied to it.

You are intelligent.