₦airaland Forum

Dam5reey1:
JOYKOO + Haisic..

12V 100AH.. BT APP monitoring
12V 1.2KW with 60A CC inbuilt.. and 60 AC charger

Best budget combo... Under 500k

Combo looks good for a beginner and low budget peeps.

Please what's the inbuilt controller PV voltage specs of the inverter?

fuckboys:
You're capping rubbish, even a business minded person knows 200k is a lot of money. And average Nigerian doesn't even care about all these big names yall throw.
He only care about his battery run time and cost effectiveness that's all.

Can we disagree without personal attacks?

Thank you for coming to my Ted talk.

Zoha99:
Please guys I’m new here. I’ve ready about 50 pages or so and I’ve seen the discussions about lithium batteries which I am trying to get. From experience please which would you recommend valto (seen many recommendations here) or vestwoods ( recommended by a friend)

Valto >>>> Vestwoods

clevermugu:
as a business minded person , will u invest your 1.9m on a lower quality hithuim and wait for 3months to arrive, when u can get an Eve for 2.2m in naija instantly.

I like your username.

dayjavoo:
Hello everyone, my neighborhood recently got downgraded from Band A to Band B and the power situation is bad. I would like to setup an urgent backup.
My energy needs are minimal;

I just want to be able to keep the internet (fiber) running, charge my phones & laptops, use fan & use lightbulbs. Maybe use the fridge (and tv) with it occasionally. In fact, I don’t expect my instantaneous power draw to ever exceed 300w as it’s essentially just a backup and I can save my major power demands for the grid.

What are the most cost effective recommendations as I did not plan for this and I’m on a budget. I may not use panels for now as charging the batteries & regular grid usage on Band B are still around 70% less than band A so I don’t mind for now. The focus is power as petrol is simply unaffordable at the moment

1) 12V 1.8kwh lithium battery ₦399k from Valto or Cworth 1kwh @ ₦177k
2) 1.5kva 12v inverter from SRNE around ₦350k

Ahyjo:
Please how about this sticker? Does it seem genuine?

Post terminal junction too. These guys in Alaba are becoming smart

Dam5reey1:
Haisic.. make una buy for science and share experience
It's 200k

I see no big deal here if they have a good after sales service.

Not like one dude that bought a 30KW 240VDC inverter from China. First week after installation it got bad. He was told by the seller to return it to China for repairs

QuoteJust1nce:
Light rains, with a sun afterwards, best recipe for solar panels
The panels have maxed out their 4.6K capacity at this point

Enjoy the sun 🌞

HeavenlyBang:
Higher current means higher cable costs and higher losses.

There's a reason why electricity is transmitted at high voltage, not high current.

By connecting more panels in series what do you think I'd get? More current? Please do help answer me.

Lemme be clear I prefer to run as much panels in series as I can so I'd use lower gauge wire without issues related to the crazy current people get by running many parallels.

HeavenlyBang:
Which is weird because surely we want higher voltage than current. I think Jinko's setup is best. 550w = 41 X 13a or so.

I prefer my voltage to be lower so I can put more panels in series and not exceed a solar charge controller maximum VoC. At the end of the day, power never changes. High voltage or low current the power is still the same - 50V 10A or 40V 12.5A is still 500W

omotoda:
Maybe there is nothing to bother about then but I know my Felicity 260 w panels of close to 4 years have about 36.. something volt as VOC so I was only wondering why higher warrage will have same VOC .Perhaps the experts can shed light on this

Power = Voltage X Current

Vmp (Voltage at Maximum Power Point) and Imp (Current at Maximum Power Point) are the voltage and current values at which the panel delivers its maximum power output (Pmax). The panel wattage rating is calculated as:

Power = Voltage × Current

Vmp (Voltage at Maximum Power Point) and Imp (Current at Maximum Power Point) are the voltage and current values at which the panel delivers its maximum power output (Pmax). The panel wattage rating is calculated as:

Panel Wattage = Vmp × Imp

For instance, a 400W panel can have a Vmp of 36V with an Imp of 11.1A.

Notice that multiplying these two values gives you the panel wattage.

Similarly, a 300W panel can have a Vmp of 65V but a smaller Imp - 4.61A. Multiplying these two quantities also results in the same 300W.

Most premium panels usually have a lower Vmp but obtain their wattage from a correspondingly higher Imp. This is the opposite of most inferior solar panels, which often have a high Vmp but very low Imp.

GloryJoyeux:
I reached out to solar assistant complaining about the new deye inverter not working on it.

They responded by releasing a beta update 3 days ago to address my issue. I can now confirm that solar assistant is working perfectly with the new deye inverter SUN-6K-OG01LP1-EU-AM2.

Kudos to solar assistant team for being so proactive.

Gotta buy that Raspberry Pi and see what I can do with HA. Thanks for the update.

Jefferyzz:
If you haven't bought this panel, I'll advise U don't, that 14a U see has a lot of factor to it. 1 side facing sun might give 10-11a. Unless you install on a carport and there something below to bounce back sunlight on the other side of the panel. Bifacial panels are not made to be installed directly on Ur roof with nothing to reflect sunlight to the other side.

According to Jinko official spec sheet for their 545w JKM545M-72HL4-BDVP solar panels, you can still get up to 545w using only the front facing cells under STC. You will gain more power if it's on, say on a ground mount, where the sun gets to bounce off wall/floor and hit the underside. Attached is a screenshot of the datasheet (did a screenshot of the relevant PV for this demonstration).

Conclusion, you don't really lose anything but the "extra" which the PV panels is not rated for.

Bruteality1:
I'm planning to use 10 of these panels.

I'll hazard a guess you did not read everything I said judging by this reply. Cheers.

Bruteality1:
Is this solar panel compatible for a 48v inverter?

Solar panel compatibility should be checked primarily from the solar charge controller's perspective, not solely based on the inverter system voltage.

Yes, you can use this panel with a 48V system. However, the important questions are: How many panels do you plan to use? And what are the specifications of your solar charge controller?

Without answers to these questions, it would be difficult to provide a proper recommendation or assistance.

Cheers!

Not a fan of welded battery terminal. Great as it provides amazing electrical contact but bad for DIY and tinkering. I love tinkering

Should a cell go bad on welded joints, that's the end of the run.

The only place I may value welded joints over screw/bolt/nut terminals is in my eBike battery build. As long as I'm not jumping over potholes and rough terrain in my home energy use, not a fan of welded joints on that end.

I live for that right to tinker and repair

eghos12:
Please what is the battery to inverter guague wire required to allow 100amps flow through.

70mm²

HeavenlyBang:
You can't use a 48v inverter with a 24v or 12v battery. And I doubt you'll find a 48v battery with that budget. Brands don't like making low capacity 48v batteries.

If only he can DIY....

Emmalex83:
That means they will change all their existing sumo to DC submersible pump?

It'll reduce the cost of the alternative which is buying loads of solar panels and batteries. Not a bad price to pay.

Mrphilia:
Good day everyone,

I'm trying to get this item from AliExpress using the choice. It's just a small instrument for work that doesn't weigh anything. I want to know if I would have to pay custom duty because of the price?

Probability of getting duty is very low, almost negligible.

kristien4:
?? ..Any response, abi my comments no dey show again?

Not recommended, but if you don't have another choice and pipe is not that tight go ahead.

JUO:
hibernation mode. Group is an advertising place

Lol. Not really.

Emmalex83:
Good evening my Gurus
Please i want to learn how to properly size a circuit breakers both AC and DC. For example, if i am installing a 10 units of 625w Jinko Solar panels in series with (Voc) 49.11, (Imp) 15.22 and (Isc) 16.22. How do i size my DC Surge and DC Breaker.
Also, how do i size my input AC breaker.

I for type am here but the anti spam bot is kinda thick and hates to see numbers

Attached as a screenshot

jonescosmos:
From DISCUSSION STAGE you should have understood that this guy is either a QUACK INSTALLER or he hasn't done any installation since 2 years ago and you shouldn't have reached the GIVE ME QUOTATION STAGE.

Run oooo !!!

I read this like a relationship advice.

Nteogwuija:
12.3v, and your inverter isn't screaming low battery?

I don't know what's wrong with mine. My battery tends to discharge at a faster rate when it's at 12.7v and below. I'm using Cworth's 200ah battery.

I'm using Cworth's recommended charge settings of 13.8v for boost, and 13.6v for float.

Maybe there's something I'm not doing right. I don't know.

One cell may be the culprit. Most lifepo4 cells that are weak are exposed at lower SoC. Is there a way to see the individual cell voltages at the lower SoC?

GloryJoyeux:
First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

Hello, can you please check the h in front of kW when discussing load as it can be confusing.

GloryJoyeux:
That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to pass off their gear as premium because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

I agree with you, SRNE batteries are overpriced, will buy Valto or Deriy batteries any day. We dey manage buy their inverters, no way I'm buying their batteries at the current sale price.

Compliant:
Thesame felicity lithium battery that you were complaining few days ago that it does not last?

Now you are saying reason for selling is because you upgraded to 48v?


Kindly let the prospective buyer know the issue so as to make a profound decision

Thank you

Someone called me from a site saying that the 5 kWh SMS lithium battery with an issue, when depleted he experienced difficulty in waking it.

Fast forward one month later, he sent me a message saying he has a barely used, one-month-old 5 kWh SMS lithium battery for sale. The owner is selling it due to an upgrade.

Lol. These guys think some of us are fools.

jstemmanex:
Thanks for your comment. I actually plan getting a charge controller with it and panels.

Would you recommend a 24v over a 12v for a newbie

Inverter you showed is a 48v system so charge controller should be compatible with 48v too. So 12v and 24v solar charge controller will not be compatible. So get a 48v solar charge controller.

FEGEITOK:
I have a Schneider inverter.

I can attest to the fact that even low current can be utilized by the inverter.

It will charge even when my SRNE refuses to charge due to the low current

Maybe someone already has dropped the input voltage. The default input voltage is usually at 190v. Someone must've used SCP to configure it that way. In the long run not recommended.

BTW it's low voltage not low current, current actually high at low voltage. Cheers.

jstemmanex:
Good evening pros, pls I need expert review on the Schneider inverter.

Would it be a good buy

Powerful awesome inverter. If your area is affected by low voltage, as most places in Nigeria, get a good voltage stabiliser if you don't have one. It doesn't tolerate voltage lower than 190v.

Though you can adjust this if you have an SCP. Not recommended to drop the input voltage though. Can charge up to 45A and handle crazy surges.

Note, you practically can't change anything (charging current, voltage cut off, LVD, etc) on this inverter if you don't have an SCP. An SCP is attached.

Jefferyzz:
Does anyone here know where I can get a non smart BMS for lifepo4 4s, something cheap, say $15 or less, if U AV a link or anything, kindly indicate.

Check AliExpress

Scan code for a sample.

codemaster2much:
from macro economics point of view, naija appetite for foreign goods is overwhelming really. The impact on exchange rate and all, I forsee more monetary and fiscal policies to curb this.

Most of the things we need in Nigeria, especially if you are into DIY, are not made in Nigeria. I hardly buy what I can get in Nigeria outside Nigeria. Most times you have no choice but to buy it outside.

Also the blame on exchange rate got nothing to do with individual buyers. The buck stops at the table of the leaders who refused to create economic policies that makes it easy for the country to earn FX. Nigeria makes it almost virtually impossible to export anything out of here. You gotta pay through your nose to ship anything out of here.