bobmalu83: Good morning my Gurus in the house Please does anyone here experience a freezer not freezing with an inverter but always freezes when there is NEPA or Gen set is on. The freezer only gets cold despite being on for 6hrs to 7hrs. But with Nepa or Gen within 3hrs it will start freezing. The Freezer is Thermacool. It is a 24v setup. 2.56kwh Cworth Battery, 3kva 24v SAKO inverter and 4pcs of 590w Jinko Solar panels connected in series. Thanks in anticipation
To troubleshoot further, you might want to:
Measure the voltage at the inverter terminals when attempting to start the freezer.
Check for any signs of wear or damage in your inverter and battery connections.
Test your freezer with another known good inverter, if available.
redgem: Sometimes they just let it go because they really don't understand the terms used.... Using myself as an example....
We have good people here. If you don't understand, I'm sure many will provide further clarification. It's a DIY thread, also doing a lil research to understand terms won't hurt. Cheers.
jonescosmos: Bros abeg help us do a video to test this your Energy Saving Device according to this drawing.
A common source NEPA/GEN connected to two Energy Meters 1&2, Your Energy Saving Device connects to Energy Meter 1. Extension 1 is thereby connected to your Energy Saving Device. Extension 2 is connected directly to Energy Meter 2.
During your video, you will have to plug the testing Load Appliance to Extension 1, show us the reading on Energy Meter 1 and then plug the testing Load Appliance to Extension 2 and also show us the reading on Energy Meter 2
Anything less than this illustration is not meant for this thread, because we will not believe it.
Even if you send him two energy metres for this he won't do this. He underestimated the audience in this thread, he must've thought here is Facebook where people believe a "fuelless generator" running only on a one 7ah battery powering a 32 inches monitor, based on a 5-second video clip, is capable of powering every household appliances (pressing iron, washing machine etc) simply because the person on the clip advertising it said so.
When the uneducated user ends up buying the "fuelless generator" and finds out it's just a 500VA PC UPS in disguise, he must've been blocked by the scam seller who must've sold it to him at a cost of 5x the cost of a regular PC UPS.
BigDickProblems: I have not experienced it before. But if I were in your shoes, I will disconnect the wire that connects to all loads directly from the inverter (I.e if you can do it) and be sure there is no connection to it. If your inverter is still showing the 14% load or so, then there is a fault. If it is not, then there something in your wiring that is causing that, probably someone has tapped your light or something else, but an electrician can figure that out for you.
Ofejiro20: My inverter has been functioning fine for the past 3 years and I've only took it out for repair only once till this recent ordeal.
I've a 5kva inverter system so it'll stay at 1% load whenever I do not have any appliance powered on the system but now, it'll just stay at 13% without any load powered on the inverter which is not the way it was before.
And when I switched on my TV and Inverter 1.5hp AC, the load rate will go up high as 25% to 28% and my inverter will be working making a very loud humming sound just like those NEPA transformer make when it has carried load. The sound is very noticeable as the inverter is working and any visitor can easily notice it which is not the way my inverter works before.
This humming sound is different from the sound of the inverter fan as the Inverter fans as working pretty fine as it'll pause for minutes and the fan will start to blow out heat from the inverter which it was designed for.
I'm confused as what could be the reason why my inverter is inducing load of up to 14% when there is no load powered on it and it'll be making that humming sound as if I had NEPA Transformer working on my house?
Disconnect output wires and see if this load (12-14%) is still there, if it is then inverter may have developed fault. If it magically disappeared, then you may be experiencing some short circuit (live wire touching neutral) or generally fault in the wiring. Check and get back to the house. Cheers.
dollarnaira: Exactly my point wrong charging voltage not because there was no bms. Bms would have saved him though with the wrong charger.
You still need a BMS, he still uses this charger even now but with a BMs. Wrong charging voltage wasn't the issue here. You need a BMS to avoid cells going out of sync and getting overcharged.
Moral of all these stories is to use a BMS with every kind of charger.
But you can always do you. Your house your rules. Cheers
dollarnaira: Sorry o but how on earth will one overcharge a battery with a right charger bms or no bms?
Cc cannot overcharge your battery with right setting.
For cells to go swollen due to overcharge must be an extreme negligence. Few minutes of overcharge does not translate to instant swollen/damage. Your friend must have been charging at higher amp and voltage over a long period of time.
This happened over many months, not just a single day of overcharging issue. He was using a rectifier to charge the batteries. I mentioned it in my original post. It's 280ah and I can't really say it's high current charging that was the issue, even though it was two combined rectifier to give 100A that he used during that period. Issue is had he used a BMS he won't be needing to replace these cells.
JJacko: People bypass the bms discharge port on Ebike battery builds all the time. So why not on Home setups with the Inverter already having LV protection? In fact, most people won't need more than 100a Bms - charge only- (If you bypass the bms discharge port and connect Inverter leads directly to Battery terminals)
This is how my neighbour lost 3 of his 280ah cells three years ago. He bought Daly BMS (300A) and was too lazy to connect it. Ended up overcharging his batteries with 3 cells swollen so bad he was afraid to use it. The charger he was using was a 48v 3000w Huawei rectifier. It was a tough lesson well learned
Always use a BMS. Or get ready to either rebuild a house or buy new cells or both. The choice is yours.
omotoda: I will like to know from experienced people here just for learning purposes: what determines the LVD on Lithium batteries itself. Is it set by manufacturers or is dependent on the type of BMS used.I was just wandering why some LFP will cut off at 9.8v,some at 10v and some at 11v.
Depends on BMS in use. Some BMS allows you decide the cut off voltage (eg JK, JBD, Seplos etc) some come preset.
Attached is my JK BMS power off voltage but it'll enter cell under voltage protect at 2.6v, you can decide to change this value. Any time any of the cells reaches this voltage, it's power off from the BMS and I'm yet to even remotely reach here since using the battery
What could be responsible for this burn and cracks? This is a 6yr panel but two of my panels suddenly one after the other developed this syndrome.
Is this panel by chance still functional?
Low quality, often cheaper than premium PVs, are prone to failure after some years of service. This failure is attributed to low quality part used to make the solar panels which makes them cheaper than the premium brand. Most that I know of fails after 3 years. This one even tried to get to 6 years.
I wouldn't use the solar panels if I'm you. Best to discard it to replace it.
On the other hand you can always check to see if the solar panels are correctly installed. Check out a good case of bad connection that may lead to catastrophic failure here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD01tMkJDbg&t=4s
I wish people who build houses could give provision to having the house powered by renewable energy and thus make provision for some of these things like output DBs, input source and PV conduit point. Your people had to go through hell to provide this. Good job especially on the wall cracking which was just enough as was needed.
kristien4: Please @all, i have a little problem with my battery. They are 2 pieces of 10kwh lifepo4 connected in parallel, when being used, they dont drain uniformly, one battery could be at 87% the other at 95% . Is this normal?
Increase the size of the parallel cable or use a busbar to do the parallel.
brightk: if u want to discredit someone,please do it in a way no one suspects u of been envious.......
Please can we allow people share their experience on this platform without attacking the messenger? Some may have things to share, which they may be reluctant to share, if they see attacks on people who share their experience.
ANTIFA: I don't even understand, at first they said Lagos air, now they said they came but I wasn't around... No call no nothing but it has updated.
Go to the NIPOST office nearest to you and pick your package. NIPOST don't do home delivery on AliExpress packages. When you see "unsuccessful delivery" it means your package is in their post office, it doesn't literally mean they tried to deliver and you weren't home
BigDickProblems: Can you share the temperature of your room via your phone app. That can actually give a clue as to such a high temperature. Bro in 35 degree celcius, you’ll sweat in a not-well ventilated room not to talk of 49 degree. Battery health is paramount.
The temperature is not the room temperature. It's the temperature of the component inside the inverter (MosFETs).