vickzie: we all know how difficult it is getting natural light from Windows into bungalow lobbies, infact all lobbies, like hospital lobbies, in the course of searching for solution, I stumbled on solatube daylighting system, luckily it's not even that expensive and a carpenter can install in less than 30mins, can even be DIYd
Yep for light. What about ventilation?
How about eliminating the walls in the blue area to throw in light and ventilation into the area? That’s is turn the private lounge into a dining and extending the kitchen towards the red area. A small terrace can also be introduced in the laundry area to throw in natural light and air into the building.
You can never take away the importance of natural lighting in a 21st century house.
Ibk2020: Thanks sir, please kindly name all the issues so I can discuss with him to adjust accordingly, thanks
Master Bedroom
Total Floor area/Livable space - OK
Bath - Manageable but larger won’t be bad.
Closet - The total area available for the closet is 2.45m. Each side of the wardrobe is 600mm. That means you have just 1.2m left. If you open the doors which is between 450 - 600mm, that makes the closet too small. Recommendation: if you want to maintain the design, I’d suggest you make the closet L-shaped towards the bath partition wall. You’ll have better circulation area and remove the unnecessary walls. It makes the room larger and you have more circulation area.
Ibk2020: Good day, Please advise needed for this floor plan, I am planning building soon, so the architect sent me the floor plan. I didn't asked him to include private lounge, so I will ask him to remove that, also please let me know if the room size and main living room size is standard enough. I want the master bedroom toilet to accommodate a jacuzzi. The land is 450sqm
@Ibk2020 this is not a functional design.
Let me tell you the number one problem with this design.
I’m a concept designer and I know a rookie when I see one. The marked out area will always be dark anytime of the day and it’ll be stuffy as there are no windows for lighting/ventilation.
You can get a better design on 450sqm. Let’s not waste too much time on this ma/sir.
This won’t pass on my side. Let’s hear from other owner builders.
Ibk2020: Good day, Please advise needed for this floor plan, I am planning building soon, so the architect sent me the floor plan. I didn't asked him to include private lounge, so I will ask him to remove that, also please let me know if the room size and main living room size is standard enough. I want the master bedroom toilet to accommodate a jacuzzi. The land is 450sqm
I don’t know what some architects think when they’re conceptualizing/designing a house.
How can a kitchen of 13sqm have 3 doors? How much functional space is left?
Space planning is a fundamental element of the interior design process.
Let’s not talk about cost of having 5 doors in kitchen/laundry.
omanzo02: I have not fully understood the functions of 32.5 and 42.5R cement grades mostly used in Nigeria, on Dangote website I understand it's an improved version of the 32.5 without a distinctive explanation of what and what not to use it for........ I once asked in building site in Abuja, all I got was "we smoothened the wall with special cement" and no one was forth coming with the type of 'special cement' like it was a classified company secret ....the professional finishing impressed me hence I decided to ask.
omanzo02: I have not fully understood the functions of 32.5 and 42.5R cement grades mostly used in Nigeria, on Dangote website I understand it's an improved version of the 32.5 without a distinctive explanation of what and what not to use it for........ I once asked in building site in Abuja, all I got was "we smoothened the wall with special cement" and no one was forth coming with the type of 'special cement' like it was a classified company secret ....the professional finishing impressed me hence I decided to ask.
The secret is better mortar mix produces excellent finish.
So the quality of sand, mix ratio and the skill of the guys plastering matters a lot. That’s why excellent rendering (plastering) cost a lot.
omanzo02: In that case what grade or type of cement is suitable for exterior walls that are usually exposed to all manners of environmental conditions (water, wind, moisture etc)?
32.5 is the recommended grade by all cement manufacturers.
Higher grade and rapid hardening cements are not too good for plastering works if you want to avoid plaster cracks that might arise from drying shrinkage, especially given the high temperature here.
Ordinarily, one would assume the higher the grade the better. The nature of the sand used also matter a lot.
tonididdy: 1. First of all 3 exits to a bungalow is kind of much.
2. The main entrance should lead to the main lobby through the anteroom (there should be a door there, having to go via the anteroom, living room and finning to access the lobby is stressful). The exit at the dinning should be closed, I have never seen a dinning exit.
3. The masters bedroom punch out is unnecessary considering the land space you have plus if it's a necessity, then there should be a window on both sides of the punch out, so you can act as security at night )
4. On this plan, I prefer the entrance to the laundry be on the exit side and not in the lobby.
5. The kitchen has 5 doors.... 5 doors ,
6. The main lobby is crooked, too many cuts and bends
7. I don't like this plan.
TO YOUR TWO MAIN QUESTIONS: 1. there will be shortage of space left unless you recalculate on size.
2. This is a big, big plan... You will invest a lot on doors but 15m should pull you through if I'm not micing words
Vapor barriers (abi DPM or Nylon �) are installed to protect what is inside your house from destructive matter that can seep through the foundational floor. If a vapor barrier is not installed, water will seep into the foundation and cause a major damage to wood floors, walls, and paintings in a house.
adanny01: Even though the density of gravel is higher than sand, when it comes to weight of a volume of each of them, it is highly dependent on moisture content..
Gravel is 2400kg/m³ Sand is 160kg/m³ So for every 1m³, you get
2400kg/m³ x 1m³=2,400kg of gravel 1600kg/m³ x 1m³=1,600kg of sandq
This is supposedly the dry weight. When you consider moisture content, sand absorbs more water and by its closer particle packing, it also retains more water. So in general the, moisture content of sand should be close to twice that of ggravel at the same exposure. The moisture content of gravel becomes lower with higher particle size. So stone dust is heavier than ¼inch which is heavier than ½inch which is heavier than ¾inch and so on.
Lets assume moisture content of sand at 30%, under the same conditions, moisture content of gravel maybe 15%.
So 2400kg of granite is actually 2400+(2400x0.15) =2400+360 =2740kg
1600kg of sand is actually 1600+(1600x0.3) =1600+480 =2080kg
At the end, its unlikely that sand will be heavier than gravel except if the granite is of very poor quality.
A ton of sharp sand and stone dust is same cost wish I think.
You can’t compare a block made with stonedust and sharp sand. To give you ideas, go and buy blocks in Abeokuta, you will need concrete cutter to cut them.
Let me see if I can share a picture of the blocks I used in one of my projects in Abeokuta.
Focusmind: My dear, If I tell you say I know, na lie - My knowledge of building na from this thread and asking questions. I don't know if Satin paint is used for exterior walls. Note that Satin is not a brand but a product type. The building gurus in this thread will definitely intervene.
flekky07: i hv seen a pave stone produce with 3/4size aggregate (Granite), any reason for that?
Each man for himself.
Aggregate can be a composition of several materials (gravel/granite/crushed stones/ recycled concrete) to form concrete.
So what they’re doing is not out of place.
While some use pure stone dust + cement to produce this paving stones, some other people use stone dust + sharp sand + cement and there are those who use sharp sand. + granite + cement.
debeey87: @n3xt and other builders in the house, does anything special need to be done for a decking not to leak after construction if one intends to leave it for at least 5yrs before continuing with upper part while living on the ground floor.
The building in question will be rented out.
Thanks
I pray God give you funds to complete the upper floor soon.
Have you done the slab?
If YES, apply cement slurry (cement-sand mortar mix) all over the top surface of the slab to plug any porisity left and or any cracks (through shrinkage or whatever means) that might have creeped into the slab. Ensure the slurry layer is sloped to drain water away from the roof.
If NO, do your concrete slab to standard thickness. After curing and drying, do the above to a desired slope to drain off water away from the roof.
This should take care of the worries. This comes at a cost though.