₦airaland Forum

Raptor2cool:
what will you say about the g6, I ordered one also

I currently use a g6, the phone is fine.

iKingsley:
please, what is 'shipment on hold'?

Don't worry it will be updated, just a process pending normally it updates within 48hrs

bigrovar:
Thanks jare. I would be a camper here till my goods arrive. If I am lucky I get it first week of june. I don ready custom money.. The device is a Oneplus 7T with 256GB ram.. asked the seller to declear $150 as price.. but I heard sometimes customs do their own evaluation and use that instead of what is declared.

Are you sure it's the ram and not storage

JUO:
is a scam but considering the price, I think is okay although is better they label it 150ah

Let's just say it was a scam when they labelled it as 200AH in the past, now that it's labelled 3.75KWh I think they've now done the right thing, unless the 200AH still exists somewhere on the specsheet or the battery box

ozoneamani02:
Hi! Glovi Sky docked yesterday as I am also expecting my car from the same shipment. It is already in Lagos

Please is this vessel still in Lagos? Have you received your car as well?

Still available for inspection

Dam5reey:
It's clear na 3.75KW usable capacity.

Just like saying 12V, 200AH Lead acid, and 1.2KW usable capacity

Yes but in LFP that means the cut off voltage would be higher than 24v, the difference here is that the low cut off voltage in the spec sheet is 24v (3v per cell) if am only able to get 3.75kw when I hit 24v @DOD of 90%, it means I didn't buy a 200AH LFP battery. It's a 150AH battery (25.6×150=3840w) which is still not a bad deal compared to lead acid.

ewizard1:
I guess it's the usable capacity. Sometimes I do think these manufacturers should instead label the "usable capacity" instead of using "200ah" label to sell a 150ah or thereabout battery since its certain not all the 200ah can be utilised.

It's a Lifepo4 battery my brother, if you buy a new 200AH rated Lifepo4 and you are not able to get 200AH or at least 180AH out of it when it reaches 3-2.5v then it's not in its true capacity

essegis:
The 280v is well within the 450v capacity of the CC so you got no issues.

As for safer, [b]both of them go shock you. [/b]Common 8A on your panels if e leak you go feel am for body. Just continue to follow the rule of higher bolts from panel to CC & you got no issues.

Yup eventually we should all take due care in all scenarios.

Abdomox:
Good day all. Please I have two 200Ah Luminous batteries that get's full within 5 hrs after full discharge. I want to know if this is normal.

PS: I dont know the configuration of the Inverter system as it was built by a company.

It depends on what you are charging with and the rate, is the battery AGM, flooded or gel?

kiekie1:
HURRY! DISCOUNTED PRICES!!

-SMK 40a mppt available ... 65k
-Felicity 24v 3.75kwh lithium batteries ... 355k
-Felicity 48v 7.5kwh lithium batteries ..... 640k

SMK mppt : Lcd display, user settings feature & lithium compatible.

Datasheet are also available on request !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
Call:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

Is the bolded the official capacity? If yes then it's not a 200AH LFP. It's likely 150AH or less

chris81964:
The 250 V 100 amp Victron on works up to 48V batteries. The advantages are fewer strings because you can connect more panels in series. You also can use thinner cables because you can run lower current. Your higher voltage minimizes loses if you are far from the array.
I have used both and honestly I pick the 250 100 any day over the lower voltage. Fewer strings means fewer breakers.

I have no victron experience but just for my information, I hope the amps referred to in bold is the Max MPPT current and not the hervest current?

adrusa:
It will be. Current is "pay as you go" or taken as required. You can only talk about the maximum current your system is capable of giving. No one is sure what it will give under every conditions. Even if your system can do 100A, you need adequate voltage to drive it through. Look at a car battery. It is only 12v and you can complete the circuit, i.e. touch both the negative and the positive simultaneously without any shock. Yet that battery pushes out between 100-200A when you are using it to start your car.

Voltage is always there. Current normally do not flow until a circuit is completed. And how much current will flow is dependent on what demand is being made by the electronics. But in the case of electrocution, voltage is the most important. What current will flow is dependent on the resistance of the body and the contacts the body is making with the groud. A good insulating rubber shoe will reduce the current passing through for example. Sweat or otherwise wet body and wet ground will reduce the resistance and increase the current flow.

So, in electrocution, current is of little importance, it is the voltage that is crucial. Yes, it is the current that will kill, but without adequate voltage, there won't be enough current to cause danger. That is why when 11,000V from High Tension poles falls on anything, it drives enough current through to incinerate whatever is its path. 220V can never do that. 220V will most likely send the heart into such a very rapid, irregular beating (tachycardia) that blood circulation becomes ineffective, it rarely causes burns.

I like that you say the bolded, but it seem to suggest that a voltage of 130v is not sufficient enough to harm when carrying 24A current. If that were the case, a 280v 8A will not give me the same charge current that 130v 24A will give(and I have tried this myself).

Simply put, both are proportionately as dangerous, the high tension line was not carrying 8A hence the impact is much more..... Besides the high tension line is in thousands volts so even if it was carrying just 5A it would be more lethal. Besides this is VDC not VAC as you would have in high tension lines.

I would have agreed with you if you say 280v at 24A is more dangerous than 130v at 24A

essegis:
The risk will actually be higher both to humans and your wires, more current flow.

Abeg did you arrange 280v on a max 150v CC?

Okay I think you didn't get the point:

280v 8A on a 450v CC
130v 24A on a 150v CC

Where is the risk more than the other?

megamart247:
Please Fuxer what is the chart saying about UACN and Guiness?

That is the only stone in my beans right now

adrusa:
The other excuse you may have is if your panels are so far from your charge controller that voltage drop may be a serious problem.

Otherwise, using such high voltage on such a small nominal voltage system is needlessly endangering one's life. 450v is no joke, AC or DC. Any mistake can lead to death or significant disability.

You should stick to the minimum voltage that will serve your system adequately.

My one cent.

I think it's important to mention, it's high PV low current so my array is 280v but at 8A, I don't think the risk will be lower if it's 120v at 24A

adrusa:
The only reason to go for the 250V100 is if your system's nominaal voltage is 96v and above. If you are limited to 48v like most of us, the 150v is more than adequate for your need and is cheaper on the long/short run.

And those of us that use 450v80 on a 24v system nko

zellfoxx:
Conext SW 4048 230V -- 630K
Conext MPPT 60 150 CC -- 220K

O'boy these are big boy leagues men.... Let me stay at my MPP jejely

Guinness Guinness verily verily I say unto you, rise!

This could also contribute to the reason for delays: https://www.vanguardngr.com/2020/05/covid-19-lockdown-appflon-berates-nahcho-sacho-for-flouting-govt-order/

earthrealm:
Am angry with LG after i bought their freezer 2 or 3 yrs ago, and the shit is just a glorified cooler.
Been to LG shop twice under waranty repairs but still same story.
Hence why am considering other makes.

Phcn is decent in my place avg of 12hrs daily, so my 4 battery inverter setup is doing quite nicely, should be 4th or 5th yr running on the fla batts.
I now intend to add solar, hence why am considering an inverter fridge that i can afford to keep plugged in 247.
30w consumption of the Lg fridge is superb, would prefer samsung cos of my earlier beef with LG.
yr

Lucky you with phcn, am surprised that you just want to install solar or do you mean this is for a client?

RabbiDoracle:
Hope you know Guinness dividends are small compared to the banks?

But I expect it to trade below 17.50 first.

I believe next 2 years will be the year for the Brewers.

All breweries are at historical lows.

What

Still available, make an offer

The red Camry is still available

justcallmenuel:
Roughly 1.3m sir.

Mine was not about cost but about capacity

justcallmenuel:
Bought from MANUEL SOLAR ENERGY ENTERPRISES, and installed yesterday by one of my experienced engineer... Big thanks to Mr Patrick for the patronage, God bless you sir!


That’s 2 pcs of 200AH, 24v Felicity lithium battery and a 5.5kva, 24v Famicare inverter..

Go Solar...Let the sun pay your bills!!!

Will be interested to here the experience of the client, especially whether the LFP has at least 350Ah cumulative

Oshomo12:
I feel u on this freezer! Very sensitive to voltage fluctuations, I discovered this late in 2015(bought mine in 2012), the electronic panel at the bottom where the fan is got melted badly! Stopped working. I went to their repair center, and the engineer I met wanted to do Kareem repair(direct connection, I rejected it, and took the freezer back home). I waited for about a year to get the replacement panel. I fixed this panel outside, by the side of the freezer. And it has been working beautifully ever since then(though by d time I got the panel, I was already off NEPA completely). Not by choice, but by force.

Lucky you, unfortunately I don't even have the option even if I get the panel today because the otondo engineer ripped off so many cables.... Been looking for the freezer to buy again before I sell the one with me but no luck thus far

ceaser:
Bumped into this online.

Buy link?

ceaser:
You better sell it and buy a new one. The one I had until about two years ago was also basterdized by "engineer". Something rated for 140 watts now stays on 250 watts. Worse still, it doesn't cool as fast nor hold foods frozen as long. I retired the thing straight. Looking to sell it, it dey one corner as I dey talk.

Sharp sharp I got a replacement 203 Litres that does 114 watts.

Talking about appliances getting faulty, I think I have been worry free for the past four years cos using solar has been able to keep appliances out of harm's way. No stabilizer headache (four of them are lying useless at the moment). The output from inverters are clean with no surges of any kind. All damages to appliances that I've experienced before have all been from NEPA surges and generator surges (especially that "I better pass" when I used it as a stop gap)

Same here, since I got a central stab and solar, at times I just wish I could turn back the clock. My freezer would have survive unfortunately I have not been able to get the same freezer.... I just love the display panel features on the cover. Looks like thermocool discontinued it

Malevonent:
if 100v is the lowest voltage , seen in your area. i would recommend you buy a central stabilizer, say 10kva, andedunamis , it is rated to pick from 80v, though mine worked ok, several times phcn gave us 70v, its about 110k for the servo type..saves you the stress of loading your fridge on your inverter..and at the same time, protects the whole house from over voltage and undervoltage.
search on jumia and konga
i assume you have 2 x 200ah 12v batteries

I use the 10kva and the stuff serves well, now that I have grid occasionally which is usually not more than 150v and can be as low as 50v but anything from 80v the stabilizer works though at lower capacity. When it's between 80v to 120v just assume it's a 3kva stab 140 to 170v 5kva, full max film 180v, and don't load it up beyond that limit else it breaks

ceaser:
I wonder if there is inverter chest freezer too. It'll be nice.



Haier Thermocool has good offerings in their recent chest freezers. They boast keeping foods frozen for up to 72 hrs after power failure. They have fairly good insulation and I've test driven 12hrs power-off with good temperature retention results, as long as the foods are frozen before power outage.

My thermocool freezer was quite good in retaining item's temperature for a long period and also power saving(between 80 and 150) not until it developed a fault, and freezer kazeems engineer layed their hands on it, now it does minimum of 200w. My guess is that the engineer did direct connection which puts the freezer in turbo mode non-stop.

Valto:
am considering this tokunbo LG 6kg wash spin and dry @80k

I use this particular model though I bought mine new some 4 to 5 years ago, it's serving till date.