Piyke's Posts
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People and Cargo... I generally do what the manual says. I don't carry more than 3 people on the rear seats Guess that may add to why I'm still on the shocks the car came with and they are still strong.I also try to avoid overloading the boot, though sometimes I may err during the festive seasons...Trust madam, wants to pack everything ![]() |
GAZZUZZ: emekan:A Kazeem is most likely responsible for this |
I would recommend seeking care at a Teaching Hospital, not just any hospital. Teachjing hospitals tend to be more thorough |
The one I hate the most comes when you try to offer advice or guide Kazeem, he just responds "Oga na my work, you wan teach me my work?" ![]() |
Victoriousvic:All Kazeem's tricks must be exposed ![]() |
adanny01:I also hit high RPMs when overtaking o. I aim at keeping it below 2500rpm when cruising but exceed as needed eg overtaking. However I don't exceed from a stop...usually |
Siena:SMH at the weldings ![]() One Kazeem in the North 6 years ago cracked my rotor in the process of replacing a broken wheel stud and hid the damage from me. He just welded it ![]() It was my mech down south who detected the evil fix months later. I know better now. Never leave your car unattended at a workshop in Naija. |
Deals with Check engine light by removing the bulb behind the dash ![]() |
GAZZUZZ: Siena don expose Kazeem finish |
Claims to be more knowledgeable than engineers at Honda, Toyota etc. |
Driving Style... I generally avoid spirited starts or acceleration (as if you're in a car chase scenario or trying to get a 0-60mph record) except if necessary. I aim to keep my RPM under 2500 at the highest speed possible. This gives me the best fuel economy. However there are times I overstep the boundaries to get things done. |
nurey:Use only grease that won't react with the rubber components. |
How about Kazeem vulcaniser's? Inflating your tires to the max cold PSI pressure stamped on the tire ![]() |
What are the top signs of a Kazeem? - Connecting the fans direct to the battery aka thermostat delete ![]() Let's add to the list and save motorists... |
sultaan: Never knew they were brands featuring the bold. Most amazing ![]() |
Maintenance Culture... I personally believe this quote: Respect your vehicle and your vehicle will respect you - Its best to always sought out issues in cars as they arise. This way, you nip things in the bud and prevent complications. OEM or Aftermarket part? For some faults I use reputable aftermarket parts while for others, it must be OEM. For the transmission, spark plugs, o2 sensors, fuel pump, ball joints etc., only OEM will do. Cost is another criteria, however I never sacrifice quality for cost in these and other systems I consider vital. Eg. OEM Iridium spark plugs cost me N12,000 but I know I won't be changing it for a long while. Manual says replace every 105,000miles. Never use a Kazeem ![]() I need not say more. Spotting a Kazeem is not difficult Thermostat delete etc. are markers |
Resuming... Other repairs at varied times include: - Replacement of power steering high pressure line (Pipe developed cracks and was leaking) - Replacement of Front wheel bearings (Done at the time I was doing my OEM ball joints based on expert opinion of mechanic) - Changed AC magnetic clutch (Part died) - Replaced the radio (When I got the car, it wasn't working) - Replaced downstream O2 sensor. See here https://www.nairaland.com/2072868/diy-replacement-downstream-bank-1 These sum up the major things I've done on the car. |
adanny01:Hmmm...Don't have an idea of these could be, as you have covered the basic things which I know. May be you could create a new thread to give is better visibility, so that Siena, Gazzuzz et al can weigh in. Depending on if the wear is on the outer or inner part of the tire it could mean something. I guess you've tried to jack the tire and shake in vertical and horizontal axes? |
Piyke:I forgot to add that the creaking noise I talked about, occurred only while the steering wheel is turned to either side |
iykmon:I don't know the price in Naija market o, it shouldn't be expensive. I try to do brand new OEM on sensitive systems such as the transmission. So in such cases I get from abroad |
9jacrip:Not in Naija, got them from the Amazon US and then use any of the mail forwarders to get it down here like shippyme.com |
9jacrip:Do you mean you swap your ball joints every 3 months? If so I think its a lot, why not get the OEM? OEM maybe more expensive but in the long run I think you will save more. My OEM only gave up last year and that's after 5 years of ownership and 11 years of vehicle life. My concern with these frequent swaps especially by most Naija mechanics is the beating they give the suspension components A lot of hammering with the mallet, some even use Monday hammer except if your mechanic uses a puller.I believe a new OEM should last more than 5 years |
Changed warped rotors to stop a vibrating brake pedal when braking...Used naija sourced rotors this time...You can't import every thing you know... This was in 2011 |
lonelydora:Welcome broo! |
Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint Replacement (Leg Pull syndrome??) No! I never had the dreaded leg pull, but I've replaced my front lower suspension ball joint (most mechanics call it bow joint). I caught it early because I listen to every noise from the car and I strongly disagree with those that say that it comes without warning. I did a thread on this but the Nairaland Tsunami took it away, nevertheless the sound will not go unnoticed except you don't care. The sound was a heavy creaking one similar to what you would get from opening a large door with rusted hinges. It usually did not start immediately with driving, but comes on after a while and then goes if I park the car for sometime. Finally, when it was removed, it was the left that was worn (the sound was coming from the left side anyway). It had developed a gap (had vertical movement). I replaced with an aftermarket part sourced in Naija but placed an order for the OEM pair. I removed the aftermarket and replaced with the OEM when it was delivered last year. I did this because I like the warning signs the OEM gave me when it developed a gap. See pictures of the OEM
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Power Steering Rebuild in 2013 Not that my PS failed, it was leaking fluid due to some worn internal seals. I bought a seal repair kit and did a DIY on it. PS still going strong. For the DIY see link https://www.nairaland.com/1569388/changing-power-steering-seals-diy Automatic Tensioner Replacement in 2013 I did this DIY at the same time I did the PS rebuild because the indicator for the tensioner was out of range even after replacing my serpentine belt. Changed this and the indicator has remained where it should be ![]() |
1st Repair and my experience with 2 Kazeems ![]() This occurred in 2009. Simply put, my car went into limp mode and couldn't exceed 3000RPM and it happened immediately after I bought petrol from a particular filling station (I was in a North-East state at the time). I made calls to a trusted mechanic who suggested I may have water in my tank, but that wasn't the case. A mechanic did a scan and I think it got a P2647 or so, but something VTEC/rocker arm related. I knew little about diagnostics then but I made sure I got the code from the mechanic. Some other mechanic told me it was my fuel pump and we tried to put in a China made fuel pump...It couldn't even crank my engine Sure he didn't get the right one, we returned it.The 1st Kazeem This guy was Hausa and said "Oga walayi no be fuel fump ma, na sensor froblem" I was excited I found someone who could fix it. But alas! he just used paper to block the inlet to my IACV my idle tanked but I drove it for some days but had to take it back to him to reverse his evil fix. On a lighter note, I had to even take an interpreter along as I couldn't communicate fluently in Hausa .2nd Kazeem I drove 300 plus miles to Abuja to meet a "reputable Honda guy" (CEL vanished during my journey to ABJ) He hooked up his scanner and told me I need to change my fuel pump. I bought the entire pump assembly from Ebay and did it myself. In addition, I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the connector to the VTEC oil pressure switch. The problem never came back. I call this second guy an educated Kazeem because looking back now, to establish a bad fuel pump using a scanner you need to run live data and observe the fuel trims at idle and at raised RPM. He didn't do any of these and made me replace my fuel pump! The poor contact of the pressure switch was the problem |
Continuing... (Been busy with work lately) Major Repairs I have not really had a major repair. The car has never stopped me on the road for any reason. I will itemise as much I can remember the repairs I've done and the reasons for such where necessary. These will follow in the next posts... |
emekan:Excellent!!! |
dokilolo: adanny01:I did a trip to Delta State and saw a Total filling station virtually empty. Had to seize the opportunity because of the scarcity . |
Some history.... Got the car 6 years ago, Tokunbo with 153k miles. Knew nothing about cars but just settled for this based on the little internet search I did. The other possible option was 03 Camry but I didn't like it's seemingly overblown rear (my opinion). On deal day, I went with my trusted family mechanic, he did a number of checks (including sniffing the transmission dipstick. I was like wetin this one dey do Now I know better) and we took it for a spin. The guy just kept on saying Machine...Machine ![]() I paid and got the car! |
So I got to the magical moment and cleared by the roadside to get a pic ![]()
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Guess that may add to why I'm still on the shocks the car came with and they are still strong.

Siena don expose Kazeem finish