₦airaland Forum

DON'T EVER THINK OF REPLACING THAT ENGINE SO SOON.
1. For the misfire codes, there are lots of causes.

*brittle valve cover seals allows engine oil seepage into spark plug ports, hindering spark ignition production in the combustion chamber of the vehicle.
Oil intrusions into the combustion chamber might give you a wrong impression of an engine worn out.

*worn out piston rings are a likelihood in this situation. But this depends on how often you've replaced your engine oil.

* recheck the spark plugs and coils you have had replaced.
A micro crack on any of the spark plugs, ceramic insulation, would allow voltage leaks needed for combustion.
Insufficient voltage for spark ignition, would trigger this code.
Same thing goes for the ignition coils.

*faulty or clogged fuel injectors, are salient culprits you may not ha e investigated.
Ask your mechanic to remove and assess them for carbon deposits problems, or failures.
Get them cleaned using carb cleaner, and replaced, if need be.

*lastly could be a wiring harness problems of any of the ignition coils, fuel injectors, etc.
Perform power and ground tests using a digital meter.
Saves you unnecessary replacement in parts.


2. The knock related codes could be that you have an open or short circuit problems on that circuitry.
Has the engine being exhibiting any knocking sound?
If it has, the codes came on because it was trying to protect from engine damage(such knocks occurs because of preignition, or detonations) by retarding or advancing the timing.
Neglect these codes, if they don't appear, after erasing them with a scantool, or removal of a battery terminal.

3. The manufacturer codes needs a scan tool that can generically interpret Toyota based codes.

4. Finally, since the only codes remaining are the misfire codes(#2&3), and the manufacturer specific one, I'd advise you to focus more on cylinders 2 and 3.



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)


PS: Don't replaced that engine yet. Try all the simple steps above first, before concluding on an engine replacement or rebuild.

If you don't hear any knocking noise on that engine, there's no need replacing the engine.

Hope this helps you out.

mrtesso. Yes, individual modules can be replaced. Replacing them, isn't a problem. The stems from clients not being patient t enough to have their battery packs balances during battery rebuilding. As you know, Nigerians want their stuff quick!!! A typical pack would take close to a month. But because of the quick attitude of hybrid car owners, packs in some climes are just recharged and put straight back into service. It does not work that way.
We must follow a laid down protocol to avoid "check hybrid system, or big caution lights", when modules are replaced.

If you must replace modules, ensure you get the right capacity, and do the normal charge/discharge cycles of the existing modules, with the replacement one(s).

A failed battery temperature sensor is always as a result of failure of the resistor embedded in the sensor itself, as a result of years of service, or sometimes, due to negligence during pack disassembly.

Just like every other items, they wear also. Electrical stuff they are.
For me, sometimes, I use a 800-1000ohms resistor as a substitute if one fails.
It sure works well.

Hope this answers your questions?



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd

Here are the culprit modules. Notice the sections of the various leaks.

Disassembled modules from the pack.
was troubleshooting the source of a leaked battery module(s).

Documentation also.
Documentation is always the key in this job.
Don't assumed your "head" got you covered!

Documenting battery parameters, and ID

Prius pack disassembled in the rear

Toyota Prius MFD on display

Digital meter placed along side the pack

disassembly process

Disassembled process

The pack disassembled, and ready for inspections

High voltage battery removed, and placed in the rear.

Camry hybrid used recently imported into the country

I did promised some months that I'd be dissecting more on the high voltage battery packs available on common hybrid vehicles on our roads.

https://www.nairaland.com/4723120/hybrid-electric-vehicle-maintenance-highlander#72583267

Today, I would be focusing on two Toyota vehicles:
A Camry and a Prius.
Both vehicles are the most common hybrid electric vehicles you see on our roads.
But with these majority share on the roads, so we got more battery issues we've noticed also.

1. A Camry hybrid vehicle, has a battery pack with a combined voltage of 244.8V.
Serial individual cells arrangements are in the 1.2V(about six of them:7.2V)
Total of 34 modules(not cell).
Capacity 6500mAh

2. A Prius has 28modules arranged serially to give a total voltage of 201.6V(1.2V*28).
Same capacity as the Camry 6500mAh.

All Toyota nickel metal hydride batteries are rated 6500mAh in their hybrid vehicles.

Inspecting the battery's temperature sensor circuitry.
A faulty temperature sensor would give false information to the BMS about the battery's temperature, and cause problems of overcharging/over discharging the packs.

Rx400/450/highlander pack on display.
You can see how they are segmented into three portions.

Toyota, and other auto manufacturer's employ the use of basically two types of battery chemistries for use for electric propulsions(to drive their various electric motors).
One of such chemistries is nickel metal hydride batteries.
Their capacities are dependent on the the strings of cells arranged in series, nature of electrodes and manufacture of such.
They have a high energy density, and can safety go through several charge/discharge cycles without posing a fire hazard, unlike their lithium ion counterparts.

These batteries are arranged like a stalk of matches in a match boxes in series, and BMS(battery management systems) are designed to monitor and control currents, temperatures, and voltages, pumping in and out of the high voltage battery.

On highlander or Rx hybrid, Prius, and Camry vehicles, various capacities are allocated to these batteries, depending on the applications.

In the picture below is a battery pack for a high lander or Rx hybrid.

Specification:
Has thirty 9.6-volts modules containing 8 cells/module for 240 cells total (nominal 1.2 volts/cell) provide nominal 288-volts, and a capacity of 6500mAh.

Individual modules cannot be replaces as found in Prius and Camry vehicles, because all modules on the highlander packs are stalked and permanently tightened.

In an event of failure, its always better to have the pack replaced, or get some of the pack of stalked modules replaced with another of matched capacity.

Instrument cluster display

Engine displayed

Instrument cluster display

Sensors on display.
These sensors are equivalent to what you have on Hondas (VTEC); Toyotas (VVTi), BMW's (as VANUS).
They are very sensitive to impurities fro. oil usage.

The variable camshaft sensors.
Those are the sensors (black and white colour), where my hand is pointed towards.
You could also see the timing chain being exposed.

Ford explorer 2009. Removing the VCTs

Modern vehicles these days are even susceptible to some few microns of impurities (or particulate matters), in especially their hydraulic systems.

Here I mean, fluids flow. Any little constrictions on the path of flow of fluids, would trigger a service soon(for Nissans), or a check engine lights(for Toyotas, fords, and other brands).

Such constrictions in the flow path of lubrication of critical engine components like camshafts, timing chains, crankshaft, etc, could cause severe engine damage.

In this piece of writeup this morning, I'd be taking us through a Ford explorer 2009, that had some mechanical issues. We'd use this vehicle as a case study, of what possibly went wrong, and how you could fix such problems, if you encounter one.



CASE STUDY
Vehicle was a Ford explorer 2009; V6(4.0L).

COMPLAINTS:
1. rattling noises on startups
2. vehicle losses power, and stalls only when the display shows "low oil pressure".
3. the SD navigation system does not work.

HISTORY
1.Car was a Nigerian used, bought from a close relative, who had relocated to the states.
2.Apparently, the car was not properly maintained.
3.Wrong viscosity engine oils was being used to service the engine.
4.That resulted into numerous problems, that at the end, owner took the car to a garage to have the problems sorted out.
5. At the end, they were told the oil pump needed to be replaced, and the go-ahead was granted from the client.
After the " fix", the vehicle was worse than they took it in to the repair facility.


THE FIX!?
1. Vehicle was drive. down to the shop, and inspected.
My observations:
-rattling noise at startup confirmed
-when engine is revved to about 3000rpm, the rattle becomes significant.
-engine oil was thick! wrong viscosity oil.
Client said they have being using 20W50(terrible).

2. Hooked up a scantool, and retrieved this code.

P0012: Intake camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1.
Retrieving this code, I already know where the source if the rattle noise was coming from.

In my head, what could possibly cause this code to come on were any or all if the following:
a) unsynchronized timing
b) low oil pressure would cause the camshaft position to be affected.
c) oil flow was being restricted in the valve train galleries, or the VCT(variable camshaft timing).
d) open or a short circuit in the VCT
e) damaged camshaft position sensor
f) damaged VCT phaser.
.
.
.
.
.n.....

From the list if possible causes of this rattle problem, and coupled with the history of the vehicle (previous repair shop),
3. I decided to take a look at the VCT on both banks.

On both banks, I did test for, 1) power feed to the solenoid itself, and for grounds using a digital voltmeter.

This was achieved with the connectors attached to the actuators disconnected, and the ignition switch turned to ON position.

All tests passed.

4. Next step was to remove all the four actuators from the various banks, and apply 12V for some second on them to see if they were actually clicking (you should hear clicking sounds if they are OK)

That test also passed OK.
Be careful when applying the 12V. If prolonged, you'd end up burning the coil in it.

5. Because of the degree of clogging on the actuators, I had to use a solvent (petrol), to wash off some of the oxidised engine oil.
That didn't give a final clean though.
I decided to use a thin of carb/injector cleaner, to flush through the orifices and screens of the actuators to make them clean, and performed optimally.

6. Do ensure the actuators are dry; and have a little bit of clean engine oil applied on them be assembling back on the cylinders.

7. Cleared the codes first, and started the car.
Rate stopped, but I got an oxygen sensor code pop up.
That was sorted out as an oxygen sensor connector that was disconnected, maybe unintentionally, from the previous repair facility.

Now how do we fix the "low oil pressure problem" that was showing on the dashboard?
We considered all options as follows:
1. if I rebuild this engine, the chances of success with the state it is now, would be 10%.
That would put my reputation at stake here.
Oil pump has being replaced, timing chain at the previous shop already, and you still ha e knocking noises.

**I would have chosen to overhaul that engine, but I was not sure if I could get conrod and crankshaft bearings, rings and all that from my parts supplier as at then.

2. Get a used engine from the market, run in the recommended Castro engine oil, and job is done.
We opted for the later options, because of the risks weren't that much as the former.
Though the engine was very expensive.
These engines are shared in other Ford applications like ford edge, and others.

Immediately the engine was replaced, the "low oil pressure problem", ceased!







Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

PS:
1.Do not outrightly replace sensors when you have sensor related problems.
Try testing then, and if possible, if they are prone to dirt's, clean them before you condemn a working sensor.

2. The LOW OIL PRESSURE PROBLEM on especially Ford vehicles most of the tines are related to low oil pressure related.
When you have severely worn engine rings, and bearings, the pressure of oil supplied to vital components in the valve train, would reduce, leading to wear, and knocking noises.

These are safety mechanisms put in place by Ford motors to protect your engine from engine damage.

3. You can use other trusted and reputable companies selling synthetic engine oils recommended for your ford!
Using Castro only, to me, is a marketing gimmick by Ford, and Castro(pls my opinion here).

Royalord1: got no definite cost in catcon replacement. I don't know what sensors you're referring to. We've got lots of sensors on such vehicles.

This accord can be transplanted with a K24 series engine, and even a 1/8L R series engines, commonly found in Honda civics, and 2013 civics.

A K series engines are the ones you see available on EODs, and in some evil spirit 4cylinder(2.4L).

Synchronising the camshaft and crankshaft before mounting in the vehicle. Exercise care when timing those components. Any slight mistakes would lead to expensive damage and repairs.

Camshaft displayed after rocker arm assembly was removed.

That's the replaced crankshaft assembly.

Pistons and rings already thrust into the engine block.

Same engine block bores.