₦airaland Forum

If you're imagining what kind of impact this would have on your hybrid and electric vehicle, here's a case study of what this car owner had to go through.

You can get the full information here, an

d what we did to fix em.

Here we go!



http://www.dxta.net.ng/2018/08/31/hybrid-vehicles-just-hate-this/



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.com
Isolo, Lagos

Available in Ladipo. Y not go there?

@snipesdam. You can get pictorial presentations from the link provided in the write up.

Just some basic stuffs you may have known for ages.

Yeah, same here too guys!

@radautos. Hehehe! Yeah, realised that recently on one of your threads.

My expectation is that apart from getting OEM parts from you guys, I'd expect to have a market for aftermarket parts as well(some aftermarket parts, improves on the weaknesses of OEMS).

Emmm, I sure know this article channels potential clients to you guys.

Nice job you guys doing.





Regards

@diportivo. Paragraph five, has been corrected. Thanks for the pointer.

@ diportivo: Emmm, I know you'd eagle eyed that part of it. But in totality, it APPARANTLY means check any used parts market. Are you a Nigerian, or from Mars? Just kidding here. Someone from the USA, or Europe would get what I meant, and even you. Ladipo in my view, or Owode can be a huge source of "junk" markets.

Sometimes, low mileage, could actually be from vehicles that you know their history, as its obtainable in the USA (I know you'd say it's not done in Nigeria). But what about the parts you buy in such markets? Aren't they "low mileage" according to your instincts?

Thanks dude, for the pointer. I sure hope you understood some of the REAL reasons for the the article, and not the APPARENT?

Majority of folks or let me say car owners aren't happy installing used parts on their vehicles.

This has being necessitated, because of the lack of genuine new parts, in the automotive supply chain.

Most parts in the market being displayed as new, are in fact substandard, and dangerous to the safety operations of machinery.

Today, I'd be sharing an experience with you guys, on some of the consequences of patronising the so-called new parts, and how you could identify one, for example.

Have a glance through the article, and save yourselves the headaches from resultant failures of 'new' parts, when they occur.

For me, in the absence of trusted parts, I'd opt for an order online from Amazon, or get a low mileage used one from a junk yard.



http://www.dxta.net.ng/2018/08/28/car-owners-beware-of-fake-new-parts-in-the-market-engine-water-pump-failure-a-case-study/#more-409


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng
Isolo

That fuel pump maybe underperforming. Get a V8 american or Bosch used fuel pump in there, a d the car MUST obey you.

Such faults won't store a trouble code in the car's computer system.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo

That fuel pump maybe underperforming. Get a V8 american or Bosch used fuel pump in there, a d the car MUST obey you.

Such faults won't store a trouble code in the car's computer system.


Dxta

It all depends on what battery type. I'm assuming it might be a lead acid battery chemistry (12V).

Charging it from 0V(0%) to fully charged (80-100%), is dependent on the battery's capacity(45 or 100Ah, for instance); output current t from the charger being used to recharge the batteries, a d resistances of the charger wires(and that if the battery).

For instance, a 45Ah discharged battery, being recharged with a 2A output charger, would take ~23hrs(a day). Assuming a 5-10% factored into this, to take care of heat losses due to internal resistances from the battery itself, and resistances also from the charger wires, means it could take more than 24hours.

The more the charger current, the faster the battery gets recharged. But this shortens battery's lifespan.




Regards
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng

Is your car a V6 or a 4cylinder?

Its not just throwing parts at the car that's the problem here.

Seems to be an intermittent issue you're having here.

Did your mechanic really checked if sparks were being sent to the spark plugs via the crankshaft sensor(s)? If he did confirmed sparks, then the sensor might be OK; it could just be the circuitry problems on that sensor. But if according to your comments here about the sensor already being replaced, you got to check for electrical issues with the car.

Ask him to finally check for sparks to the plugs first!





Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng
Isolo

Welcome to NL.

What's currently the problem with the car? I bet you, whatever the problem is, it can be fixed!

Converting it to a regular car, is very possible. But that would entail a lot of replacement parts, and that kind of stuff.

I hope the problem you're having currently, isn't related to the HV battery, or the abs system?

My instinct tells me, it might be the battery.

Where's your location?


You could follow some of the hybrid vehicle related blogs on our website here:

www.dxta.net.ng


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

Decoded!

Yeah, we do get your sense of reasoning.

All options were put on the table before we decided with our allies to strike Binladen in Pakistan!

Definitely, we didn't strike Binladen with much force.

We had to allow the part sellers do that banging thing.

Nice response.




Regards,
Joseph

INTRODUCTION

Asides, Toyota, and maybe some European and American vehicles on our roads these days, a lot of people, love(like) Honda brand of vehicles.

In my little experience, test driving some of their brands from the 2000 model year civics; to the accords 2006-2008; and finally the Honda accord 2012-2013, with its muscle like streamlined structure, you can agree with me that their AC cooling systems are "chilling" perfect!

It's also rare, you gear of Honda brand engines going that bad, except if not properly maintained.

What keeps most people, and perhaps me too away from Honda vehicles are the already known fact that you could be driving down the highway, and all of a sudden, one of the front ended tyres dislodges from its trans axle.

That, in itself, is a major catastrophe, waiting to happen. I mean, an accident could occur, while you're in the middle of the road.

From what I have seen over the years in the field, and heard from colleagues and car owners, a pattern seems to have being established.

1. On negotiating bends, the tyre(s) could pull off

2. That car has to be fixed on that same spot, NY a mechanic (you're at their mercies though, if yours can't come over).

3. The fix usually involves a ball joint, or an outer CV joint coming out of its solid shaft key

4. After the fix, car owners suddenly registers this problem consciously in their subconsciousness.

5.That makes them scared, and finally, sale the vehicle, for a more suspension reliable one.


CASE STUDY

Vehicle type: Honda Accord 2003(eagle eye)
Engine configuration: 4cyl
Transmission system: Automatic

Here's a case study of such an issue I had to fix some weeks back.

CONVERSATIONS

Client: Could you please cone check what's wrong with my car pls?

Me: What kind of brand is it, and what's the problem you're having?

Client: Just left the grocery store right now; got into the car, started the engine, and engaged transmission to drive(D), the car wasn't moving.
It was just stuck in stationary mode.

Me: We'd come take a look at it shortly.

Client: OK, pls hurry up!

Me: Clients are so in a hurry, not minding if you're busy, or not.

I got to the car, replicated her scenario, realised the transmission was engaging, but there was a noise coming underneath the car; removed driver side tyre, lo and behold, surprisingly, the CV solid shaft had broken into two.

MY OBSERVATIONS
1. Solid shaft that held both the internal and outer CV joints failed at the middle of the shaft(midpoint).

2. The exact point(midpoint) where the shaft failed, was supposed to be the exact point, where the shaft damper resides.

3. Amazingly, the shaft damper in this case, wasn't on that position.

4. It may have failed also, and fallen off, since the damper itself, is made of rubber material that degrades with time, due to exposures to high temperatures, etc.

THE FIX!
1. Supported the car on Jack stands, ensuring we're not exposed to safety related hazards
2. Remove the inner and outer CV joints, with the broken pieces of the solid shaft.

DECISION MAKING PROCESS
a. On assessing and evaluating the broken shaft, we had two options, and another third, from the owner of the car(a woman for that matter!).

b. I had presented the following options to the client:

¶ replace the solid shaft, with another one, since both inner and outer CV joints are OK,

¶ replace the whole CV joints and the shaft with a used one from an automobile used market,

¶ ...and her own piece of advice, which was to get the CV solid shaft electric arc welded.

Her advice seems reasonable, and less expensive, but the risks in getting involved in such an "adventure", was way too high.

What happens, if for instance, the shaft suddenly gives away, when driving? Definitely, I'd be held responsible, and lots of legal issues, could spring up.

3. So, at the end, we both came to a consensus, and opted for option #1(solid shaft replacement only).

4. We ensured the CV joints boots were not ruptured, and any that shown signs of cracks or rupture, were replaced; and lithium grease applied to the ball bearings in the CV joints.

NOW TO THE ANALYSIS
1. After we were done with job, we took the broken shaft, and decided to critically analyse, why would the shaft cut into two halves the way it did?

2. Why wasn't it the " standard " ball joint/CV joints that pulled or gave way to this failure?

HOW DO YOU AVOID EMBARRASSING SHAFT ISSUES?
1. Ensure your car's CV joints boots are always inspected for cracks, or ruptures whenever you're at the filing station, or at your mechanic's shop.

2. Always insists shaft boots(hoses) are replaced, when any abnormalities are discovered.

Do not manage ruptured hoses.
They cause the lubricating fluids in the shaft boots to oxidized, exposing them to corrosion, and subsequent failure.

They end up at the end, embarrassing you on the highways.

3. Always insists on using lithium grease during lubrications.
Using any other grease, would hasten the wear and tear on the CV bearings.

CONCLUSIONS.
For this particular kind of failure, the major reason I could adduced to the failure of the shaft was as a result of CORROSION, and maybe design flaws on the shaft, and the location of the shaft damper on that model of Honda accord (2003:Eagle eye).

I hope this piece of information, saves you the pains and embarrassment, associated with Honda's CV joints shaft issues.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng
...serving you passionately with a difference

If you are currently, or muzzling the plan or ambition of buying a hybrid or electric vehicle, that has being in storage or parked on the street, or in a dealership's lot for some months now, or even years, you got to be extremely careful, what you get yourself into.

Asides, the hybrid battery pack, here are some pertinent questions, and quiet an info, that would help in your purchase decision making.

Here's the link:

http://www.dxta.net.ng/2018/07/12/379/






Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Lagoa

1. The noise you maybe hearing could be as a result of your exhaust system, colliding with the under body of the car.

Have that checked by a panel beater to see what they come up with.

2. Coolant is the preferred choice.
Coolant already has the right proportions of additives that prevents corrosion in your car's cooling systems.

Using ordinary water, as is common in this part of the world, would only cause you lots of issues in the long run.

Corrosion problems, leading to overheating, and failure of other cooling systems components (radiator clogging; worn water pump impellers, etc).

Instead of using ordinary water, its best to use distilled water, as almost 90% of hard water constituents have being taken care of.


I don't think you would want what is displayed in the picture below in tour radiator?

Hope this Anders your questions?




Regards,
Joseph
0806643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng
For: Automobile help desk

Most people talking "evil" about hybrid or electric vehicles, is just because of the battery pack problems.

For instance, if you got a new hybrid vehicle, that's still under warranty from the dealership, you have no problems, because almost all the major HV systems like,

1. Inverter/converter assembly
2. HV pack
3. Transmission systems (eCVT)
4. Electric compressors
.
.
.
n..., would be replaced, by the manufacturer, at no cost to you.

That's simply because you may have being doing a your maintenances at the dealerships, or there was simply a recall on those components as a result of manufacturer flaws.

So, coming home now, when you buy a used hybrid vehicle, be aware that the "juice" in it has already being used.

¶¶¶all other HV components, apart from the HV battery pack, don't get to fail suddenly. But for the HV battery, it is a wear and tear component, like the way tour cars engines wear with time (distances covered, or number of years in use).

So, please, those against hybrid vehicles should realised that y lots of folks in Nigeria are scared and complain about such cars, is because of the cost of maintenance of such cars.

Definitely, the HV battery is like tour phones battery. You shouldn't expect to get 100% capacity from a vehicle that has spent more than 10-15years of usage. It would sure break down, some day.

The vest bet for anyone who wants a hybrid vehicle, is to invest in the battery, either by,

1. Get new battery from Toyota USA for $3000
2. Rebuilt one from any junk yard, or accident car
3. Get a used battery pack from the open market

Option #1, would take you to 10-15 years, i f you want to own the car for years to come.


If you have any further questions, you could reach me on here:

Fig1: Camry HV pack

Fig2: Assessing modules

Fig3: Load testing a HV pack

Fig4: Highlander pack



www.dxta.net.ng

We announce to you, the creation of a thread tailored towards getting unfettered and unbiased support/answer to your various automotive inquiries.

This thread will allow you to asks various automotive questions. We will be theoretical as much as we can, to enhance your understanding through knowledge of basic principles.

We will try to make explanations as analytical and scientific as possible rather than feed you with only myths, as well as use our practical experience to assist you. 

It promises to be very interactive, not just for problem solving but for learning. Enthusiasts, students and amateurs will find here an environment to stay.


On this thread, solution providers will be limited to just 2 people, though we will welcome positive contributions from other experts. This is to ensure that this place is organized and not to end up confusing the person that is seeking support. 

Wherever we can not be of help, we will refer you to other experts in the field. 


This thread is not to promote our services but basically to assist and enhance positive knowledge and experience of everyone here. 


We encourage and emphasize courtesy and regard for others on this thread so that people looking for help will not end up being insulted or embarrassed.

Only productive arguments would be welcomed.


Also watch out for other threads that we will create outside this one but with "Automobile help desk" signature. 


Our faculties will be:

1. Joseph — 08066643532

2. Richard — 08030420562 


Feel free to relate with any of us. 


To key us in, we will be feeding you with articles and case studies in no distant time.

We will keep doing this to keep this thread active. 


Best regards,

Automobile Help Desk.

As long as it would be done properly, there's nothing wrong with overhauling it. But if you don't feel comfortable, and have got the cash, go ahead with a replacement.

But what if......that's the scenario.

OK. Yours was a brake system problem. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks for the comment.
You left out some salient questions out of your comment.

You didn't state I'd you bought the car new, or imported or used, you didn't state if you've ever had issues with the car, etc.

Nigeria is a country, where the "haves and the haves not", would do anything possible to lay their hands on the latest of automobiles, and consumer electronics.

People, generally, psychologically, want new things.

That's human nature. Though this varies from continent to continent, and peoples too.

Its just the way humans are.

A need is met, and suddenly another one pops up.

Some of the reasons people cherish their automobiles, especially hybrid cars is because of its " fuel saving capabilities ", and perhaps its almost different operations that distinguishes it from conventional cars.

So here's the catch here.

If you currently own a hybrid/electric vehicle (Toyota, or any other brand), or have owned one before, please be honest with yourself in this regard.

1. Why did you buy such a vehicle in the first place?

2. State the model year and the type you bought (Prius, Camry, highlander, or a bolt)?

3. Did you buy it new, or used

4. Was it imported or a Nigerian used one?

5. If possible, can you give an estimate of the mileage when you got it, or when you sold.

6. If you currently own the vehicle, can you state what the mileage is?

7. If you have sold the car, what was(were) the major reason(s) you sold it?

8. Please I need tour inputs to be able to cone up with some data that would be of benefits to everyone.


Thanks for your participations.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

...serving you passionately with a difference

The onset of the raining seasons brings with it, a lot of concerns to car owners, and even real estate owners.

Some of these concerns, ranges from unexpected expenditures that may arise from vehicle repairs, or outright replacements of expensive components.

The real estate guys, on the other hand, might have to get their some or all of their properties rehabilitated, or sold in some instances at ridiculous prices.

All because of floodings that accompanies the raining seasons, in some parts of the country.

Lagosians suffer more , from the devastating impacts of flood waters to their vehicle much more than other parts of the country.

So, if you're Lagos, or some other place, this article applies to you too.

HOW DO YOU NOW LIMIT THE POTENTIAL DAMAGES AND COST OF REPAIRS DURING THIS RAINING SEASON?

Here's a link to the strategies involved:


http://www.dxta.net.ng/2018/07/02/navigating-safel…s-raining-season/



PS: Please drop your comments, and contributions to the topic.
Share to loved ones also.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
Lagos

Yes, I'm an automobile engineer, and its something I can do!

You don't need to be amazed.

I have noticed this same trends on vehicles with this same engine (2AZ) on rav4 2008.

Apparently, this happens from the plastic getting bristled, as a result of extreme exposure to heat, and aging.

Driving that car that way, isn't cool.

There are two possibilities here:
1. the piece of plastic has being suspended in the oil in the sump. So, as it is, when the engines temperature rises and you start the engine or drive, the broken pieces might first of all get stuck in the internal filter(strainer). That won't be able to cause any harm, if the distance you intended to drive, isn't that far for a fix.

2. The sump can be opened, and those bits removed.


PS: picture below shows how a typical sump strainer looks like.


Look closely at the screens of the strainer, you'd see lots of sludge on it.

The broken bits would only be trapped that way.

The possibilities of the broken plastics passing through the screens, is dependent on your cars RPM, etc.

Regards,
Joseph
0806643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd

Y not just say, SOME! That pretty much helps.

It must be the 3.5L V6.

If there's a check engine light on the dashboard, get it scanned, and post codes here, if you can.

But without the scanning, I'd suggests its either your camshafts sensors, or the crankshaft sensor, positioned on the transmission.

A failing of those parts, most especially, the camshaft sensors on the cylinder heads, would display such symptoms as yours.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

This isn't an oil issue.

Don't got the alternator way yet. Try removing all the fuses one by one, and or relays.

Ensure you mark off all the relays or fuses you remove. That would ensure you get to know exactly where the problem lies.

If you or your electrician has done that, and nothing's fishy, your next options would be to get the wiring harnesses on that car checked.

There's a tremendously heavy load(demand) on your 12V battery right.

Alternator replacement should be a last resort.

Please ensure you've exhausted the above steps before coughing out cash for an alternator.

If its an alternator, there should be a TSB, if for instance, its a known problem with that car.


So, get first things first, checked out.


I wished you were in Lagos.

Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng

Me think, your problem is something that has to do with engine load here, vis-à-vis electrical.

You have changed all mechanical and some bit of electrical stuffs, and same results.



For that car, try replacing the camshaft sensor, if it has one on the cylinder head. Oooops, I forgot. Your car has an ignition system with plug wires. That means the camshaft sensor is in the distributor system. The sensor is part of that component. So, replacing it means, replacing the entire distributor. Doesn't cost much though.

Secondly, you might be having something to do with some of the wiring harnesses related to the ignition system, or the fuel system.

For the ignition system, try check the wires routing from the ECU to the crankshaft/camshaft sensors. Some of the wires in between the crankshaft pulley, may be lying on the engine block-hot surface. That would chamfer the signal wire there.

On the fuel side, check the fuel pump relay at the hood. A failing fuel pump relay, especially on Honda brands, can be frustrating.


***check all the wiring harnesses related to the fuel and ignition system.

When you have an intermittent short circuits like what you're experiencing in my view, it takes time to diagnosed.


Terribly sorry for the theft of your car dude! Better one's on its way for ya!

And finally! I hope you can decipher this one!?

"I dan Yesu yana sama, kar ka ji soro"!

JAH bless, and JAH guide man.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)