₦airaland Forum

Y not disabled the tracking system, and see what happens?

Appears he must have linked part of the circuitry of the tracking wiring harness from either some kind of feed off the battery, or something that has to do with a dedicated ....volts.




Regards,
Joseph

You got a parasitic load problem.

Diagnosing it, requires someone that's patient enough.

You also have to be patient when its being diagnosed.

+1 to others here, if you got a digital meter, and know your way through diagnosing short circuitry problems, that would be a plus for you ,and saves you some bucks.



Regards,
Joseph

This is how I'd go about this problem:

NB: This problem is sometimes related to fuel system. Hence, my response.

1. How did he check the O2 Sensors? Did he use a DVM to check for continuity and resistance, the comparing that against a known reference?

If he did, and concluded the sensors are OK, then I'd have to look at the circuitry on the sensors, of there are any open. circuits linking to the ECU.

2. If that checks fine(circuits intact), I'd replace the spark plugs. Reason being that they reduced ability to provide spark as they age.

3.Cleaning of the O2S and the catalytic converters. I know guys here would say its a waste of time, and that won't work.

I have done this same procedure on an Acura MDX 2010. That fixed the issues.

As these components, spark plugs, catalytic converters, etc, age with time, carbon buildups gets entangled within them, causing this same problem.

4. I'd check for any intake air leaks in the engine compartment. Replace your air filter if its clogged.

5.Exhaust leaking through the neck, or the lines. Do you notice any high frequency noise from the car?
Ask your panel beater to have a look at the exhaust for signs leaks.

6. Lastly, of everything has being done, and still persist, I'd now conclude on the ECU. It could be that the ECU so t getting g enough voltage signals from the O2S.




Hope this provides you some of the info you may be graving for.





Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
08066643532(WhatsApp/call).
www.dxta.net.ng

Address is in the website provided. Isolo, Lagos.
www.dxta.net.ng

If that's your only symptoms, the problem is you've got a worn valve seals already.

If I were the one handling that job, I'd replace the rings along side the valves, etc. Simply put, I'd overhaul the engine. This would entail me replacing the valve seals, metal and main bearings, pistons rings, etc. This would be only if I have consulted with the car owner, and the owner still wants to retain the car for more years. But if you're only interested in fixing the valves, go ahead.



Hope this helps you!


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng

Here would be my diagnosis online.

Car doesn't rev beyond a certain threshold, and you were advised to replace the engine, you did. This does not make sense to me here. How could a no revving situation be traced to an engine replacement?

I would have started with the least to the most on a troubleshooting tree.
They should have started with servicing or cleaning up the throttle body assembly, fuel injectors, and even, checking the pressure on the fuel pump.


¶¶¶¶¶If all those checked OK, the catalytic converter of the car should have being the next thing to check. If it is clogged internally, this would hamper back pressures exiting the tali pipe. ¶¶¶¶¶

All of the above points takes care of the NON RAISING PROBLEM.


For the #2ignitiin cooks getting burnt, the only probable cause would be,

1. there may be some kind of short circuit problems occurring on the signal or ground circuit on that car, in such away that the ECU now, only sends out the normal 12V, without being able to receive a 5 or so volt signal.

If this is the case, the wiring harness on the designated circuits, maybe shorted, and it would be pertinent the source is traced.

What kind of engine seats is your car using? The electrical ones, or the manual ones? If its the electrical ones, disconnect the connectors, and you're done.

If there aren't short circuit problems, the likely cause of the ignition coil burnt outs is the ECU as the electrician has said.

But my worries is y not the electrician, try troubleshooting the least things FIRST, before concluding its the ECU, as your mechanic wrongly concluded on the engine?


In summary,
1.Its an electrical problem for the coins to be burning out.
Check for ground problems(short circuits).
ECU should be the last option.

2. Non revving. Try cleaning the throttle body assembly before replacing it.
Have your panel beater remove your exhaust system, then start the car. It should rev beyond 3RPM, of there isn't problem with the exhaust system.


Hope you get this sorted out soonest!



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643521(calls/WhatsApp)
Isolo, Lagos

To the OP, I feel your pain here.

Some questions for you though.
1. How many miles on her now?
2. I can only see pending codes on the results. Is the code that is on display what they did fix?

Here are my humble submissions:
1. If the code on display, was a current code, and not a pending one, replacing the camshaft sensors, as you claimed, won't solve that problem.

In some cases, it does.

Basically, what is happening on that car are as follows:
a) you may have being using wrong viscosity engine oils for your car. For instance, of you use, say, mineral oils, with its limited additives in them, with time, theses additives that are part of mechanism needed for lubrication of internal engine parts, gets oxidized,and degraded, causing sludge buildup that would if not checked, hamper the operations of the car's VVTi system.

b) is either the vvti itself is faulty, and not the camshaft sensors that were replaced.
Inspect the wiring harness on the vvti circuitry, and even the camshaft sensors wires also.
If the wires are chamfered, the signals emanating from the vvti/camshafts would be erratic, and the ECU won't be able to interpret such signals rightly.

c) camshafts vvti gears maybe be off its timing.
Check the gears and realigned, if possible.


So, in summary, your predicament, could be surmised as follows:

¶replace or check the vvti switch, or the wiring harness itself.
Check the wires before opting for a replacement

¶ check the engine oil fill port, for signs of heavy sludge buildup. if present, de sludge the system.

¶ check the camshaft vvti gears for any misalignments. Misaligned gears would trigger up the code.


PS: Never ever replace that catalytic converter or the ECU. It has for nothing to do with this code.


Pictures 1 and 2, shows a bank of the camshafts from a Sienna 2010(2gr).
I don't know your engine model though. But they ate all same principal of the vvti system.

The camshaft with the bigger "head", is the one I'm referring to as the vvti camshaft gear.

I hope this helps you sort your problem out.


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng
...serving you passionately with a difference.

Sometimes we get caught unawares, when in the middle or a rush hour to beat traffic gridlocks, you crank your engine to get on the go, then suddenly, you hear a "ka!!!" sound, as you keep turning the ignition key in its slot. You become exasperated, and like, "what the hell is happening? I did start this car this morning!" Well, you did, but right now, it isn't giving you the "fires" you'd need to power up that car.

Your best bet would be to get a donor battery somewhere from a colleague, or some kind of shop, to help jump start the car!

In order not to continue falling in to such problems, and being at the mercy of battery chargers, the following piece of information explained in this blog, would enable only YOU and YOU, to tackle this problem.

Enjoy your read.

Hey! don't forget to drop some comments on the comments bar please.


www.dxta.net.ng/2018/06/24/all-you-need-know-about-your-cars-starter-battery/


Regards,
Joseph

We these days see a gradual increase in the number of hybrid and electric vehicles plying our roads, and the potentials for prospective car enthusiasts wanting to own one.

Most car owners don't have an idea of fluids specifications used by the various critical components in their cars.

Using wrong fluids, for example, in the transmission system of such vehicles, would potent a terrible gamble, with its financial consequences.

I have written a blog on this subject, whether you own a Toyota or a Honda branded vehicle, the link below, provides vital info on what type, and quantity of fluids are applicable to your car.


http://www.dxta.net.ng/blog/

Please leave your comments in the comments bar.



Regards,
Joseph

Lots of causes, ranging from ruptured evaporative systems, that allowed fuel vapours get streamed in the cabin.

Another reason could be that the fuel pump tank cover, isn't properly sealed.

This could be caused by a cracked fuel tank pump cover seal.

There is an opening below the steering column of your car, where the steering column connects to the steering rack assembly. That opening, has a rubber sealing that opening. If that rubber covering is missing or something like that, smoke(pollutants) would escape through the openings and straight into the cabin.

The AC system vent holes in some cases, are defective. They too cause such situations to occur.


Hope this helps your question?



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

What is(are) the issues with your Prius?

Maybe we could help you out!




Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng


PS: You could read up some of my articles on hybrid cars, on this platform too.
Here's one for a start:

https://www.nairaland.com/4409587/hybrid-vehicle-maintenance-teardown-prius.

You could also select from the list of hybrid and none hybrid related topics here.

https://www.nairaland.com/trygo/topics

All roads leads to Ladipo!

What do you mean by "cranking low or high"? Or you meant to say it fluctuates up and down?

Could you provide more info to your problems please?


The throttle body assembly of your car might be stuck with carbon deposits.

Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

Yes, it depends on the kind of vehicle, and how the suspension system is designed.

For instance, vehicles with air/hydraulic system operated suspension systems, would trigger a or some codes, if there are problems with the system.

Example of vehicles you could find this applications are some variants of Lexus (like LX570); range rovers, etc.

Cars like the one in question on this article has got no air hydraulically operated suspension systems. So there isn't any information that's being sent to the car's ECU, as regards various checks that's being run on air hydraulically operated ones.

You determine such checks, basically by experiential knowledge.


Hope this clarified your questions.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

You have to be extremely sire that the transmission system has actually and finally packed up.

Have your mechanic, actually diagnosed it and found that the transmission isn't engaging again? There are instances where its just the drive shafts, or the front differential that has failed.

You got to be very!!!sure so you don't throw away money on a new transmission system.

For buying a transmission system without the four wheels, YES, you can buy that. But this goes to tell you that you'd be sacrificing your 4wheeled drive.

In this case, that means the rear differential, rear drive shafts, and propeller shafts, won't be needed any more.

If you can, save more to buy the stock transmission that came with the car.


It does not have transmission system issues, at least, on the ones I have handled.

I have no idea of the price. Why not call your parts supplier for a quote?


PS:
1. That transmission system, shouldn't have suddenly failed without it sending some signs in terms of poor quality transmission fluid, and maybe salient noises you might ha e heard before now(just Newton's 3rd Law playing out here).

2. What kind of transmission fluid are you using on that car? Hope you aren't using SEAHORSE?
Pls use specified fluids for the next transmission system you'd be buying.

3. Ensure the front differential has enough fluids in it.
This does not use the same fluid with your transmission system fluid please.
If that front differential has failed, be sure that a new transmission system installed would still fail.


Hope this helps you sort this out soonest.


Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng
Lagos
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

@kitime. I'm not offering such service on my website for now. But I have operated such machines, delivering the same service to some companies.

A partner of mine has these machines we used out in the fields for logistics companies, etc. Our services is t limited to petrol alone, but we also do such services on diesel applications.

Pictures below shows a display of one of the services I was handling. It's a fuel cleaning machine.

If you need any info about this service, you can contact me.



Regards,

Joseph

Just like someone said, you got to fix the problem.

How do you fix the problem?
As long as they are sensors, the likely things you'd be looking at, should be ;

1. checking the wire connections on the sensors, if they are chamfered, or exposed due to corrosion. Replace or repair the wires if that's the case.

2. For the O2S, or the knock, you can replace both of them, since they're not that expensive.
Do that, and see what happens.

3. Erase the codes and complete some drive cycles to allow the complete adjust itself.


Hope this helps you.


.Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(call/WhatsApp).

Its dammed easy. If you've lived in the North before, or had being to farmlands situated in savanna forested areas, there are trees with seedlings that have a terrible itching efficacy. I can't remember the botanical or English name right now, but when they are spread on the car, anyone that sits on that car, would immediately starts itching his/herself. The itching is just like what chloroquine does to one's body when down with fever.



Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

I have never heard of those ECU (brain box) terminologies before.

Y don't you just get the original Brainbox, and program it to the car? Saves you a lot!

Car came to the shop without a fried ECU. So, how cone now, a brain box was fried, and has to be replaced? Sounds .....



Regards,
Joseph

Its either the gauge has totally failed(potentiometer in the gauge dead), or you've dirt and corrosion deposited on the gauge contact surfaces.

Another possibility is to remove the pump entirely with pump, and inspect. You can use a digital voltmeter, set to read resistance, to check if its working. The higher the resistance value, the lesser there would be current flowing to resistor(gauge).


Hope this helps you though.


Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng
Lagos

If you look at the progression of events on your car,

1. the car horn, and blabla didn't cease to operate immediately after the jump start, but was afterwards you travelled.

2. Heard noises at the front, then car stalled by itself.



Question for you:
When you were driving, was the battery indicator light lit on the dashboard? If no, then your charging system is OK, and not at fault.


***the jump starting procedure employed by the battery man was correct. Can't be blamed on him.

***Issues coming up afterwards, could be a coincidence.

***the intermittent ceasing of the horn, could be related to the horn relay/wires having a partial open in the circuit (caused by corroded damaged wiring). Check the fuse and relay to see if they've got corrosion embedded on them.

***noise you heard preceding the engine stalling, could be something related to the mechanicals (engine, or so). Only a mechanic can determine that for you.



PS: Have you tried starting the car again, to see what happens?


Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos

Hi, guys! Now you all, or let's say, some of you with hybrid or electric cars, can ask questions over here, regarding your brand of vehicles. Such questions may range from battery issues, or maintenance schedules, etc .......

Here's the link:

http://www.dxta.net.ng/community/

Pls always make your inputs concise and straight to the point.



Regards,
Joseph

What type of a scanner are you using? Some tools, would never access a Honda. Especially some variant of Autel509.

As someone here said, if you aren't getting power to your obd2 connector, the scanner would never read.




Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

Hmmm. If we aren't getting any response from mayor, and some folks are already coming up to concur on what their experiences had being, then, there must be something going on here.

Just my opinion though, from what the OP, and some folks have being saying.


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
Lagos

Also check the vacuum pipes for any leaks, including the throttle body assembly.


Regards,
Joseph

We have two things going on here, that I think you got to identify.

1. Deduce what sort of noise it is:
a) Horn, or
b) Security blaring with the horn

The frequency of the horn on normal operation, is supposed to be something within normal decibel, and not something that makes noises out of control.

As long as you've confirmed that "this deep noise" is quite different from what your car's horn had being before, my best bet would be that, as long as you've the key ......sticking out its ugly sign on the dashboard, it might be that your car's security system, must have malfunctioned.

Are you the first owner of the car, since it was purchased? Have you ever incorporated any security system on the car through an electrician? If you've never done any of that, then I'd conclude that your factory set security system, even without you knowing, has malfunctioned.

Secondary, if you weren't the first owner of the car, and you just got the rife, there is a likelihood that the previous owner did installed a non OEM security system on the car, that has finally failed.

If you can, disabled the system, and you should be done.


*****If your remote system is working perfectly on the car, then have the remote key fob checked. Sometimes, the PCBs(that stuff like a panel board) on those key fobs, tend to fail.


Hope this helps with your situation.




Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

This receipt thing is just somehow. So you spent all this amount to fix or purported fix that car?

I'm more concerned about the overheating thing, and parasitic drain charges.

I'm trying to draw a correlation between a battery drain, and overheating situation.

So, are you saying the other mechanic did fixed the issues with the car, without confirming the car was overheating when you brought it to him?

I think we'd still have to wait for @mayor to respond to all these allegations.


Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

In my view, your car's horn relay or its wiring harness, may have being shorted to power.

Here's a simple test to carry out:
1. Connect the terminal again, and remove the horn relay. If it stops beeping, that relay isn't OK. But if it continues to beep, the relay is internally shorted. Swap a known good relay, of the same amperage and see what happens.

2. If the relay and horn harness are OK, then, you got to check your horn switch.

A faulty horn switch, would display same problem.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/cal).
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos

Absolutely! The timing belt can be reset, if your mechanic knows what he's doing. He might know what he's doing, considering that he did replaced the oil seals by the ignition timing area.

If your car uses a distribution box(has spark plug wires), then, probably the ignition has being retarded too much, causing it to not start.


PS: If it displays the key sign, without starting, then I suspect there must be something going on wrong with the ignition module ID. It may not be identifying the signal being sent from the ignition, to the ignition module.

It could also be that your car's security system is preventing the car from starting, if it has developed some kind of fault.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng

Terribly sorry for your situation.
What the mechanic replaced is called VALVE COVER SEAL. And I don't see how that could result in the tining being tempered with, as Kong as the belt/chain wasn't part of the repair process.

All the parts replaced, shouldn't have being replaced in the first place. Keep those parts, and have the car SCANNED of codes first! Without doing that, you'd keep throwing money at parts.

Isn't there a check engine light on the dashboard displaying?

I hope the "rewires" you called haven't spliced the car's wiring harnesses, and did terrible connections?




Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.net.ng

Not only a Nissan ATF. There's a specific one for your transmission. Its Nissan ATF "J"./Any other would cause shift issues.

First and foremost, let's all not jump to conclusions on what the OP has opined over here.

I'd suggest, we await the responses from the other party @mayor, to hear his own side of the story.