₦airaland Forum

You can turn off the light by following these steps

1. Turn on the ignition until the airbag light goes off briefly; this will be a few seconds.

2. Immediately after the airbag light goes out, turn off the ignition for three seconds

3. Turn the ignition back on, turning off again as soon as the airbag light goes out, as in Step 1. Repeat this for three cycles in total.

4. Then turn the ignition on for one second and immediately turn off the ignition, then back on again and start the car


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E6Mkr2Xgjc

Tokunbo ML 350 4Matic 2008 for N5m
Call me on 08149756543
Whatsapp 08095904534

Tokunbo Toyota Camry LE 2005
Amuwo Lagos
N1.85m
Call 08095904534 or 08149756543

Now that it seems it’s going to be raining almost everyday, your car needs special care and attention just like your body because wet conditions do affect vehicle parts much differently from the regular and hot weather. Now let’s highlight some important care, maintenance and driving tips that could help you save time and money in this rainy season while keeping you safe.

Tyre Care
Wet roads definitely reduce tyre traction and increase the risk of skidding when the brake is applied suddenly. Using over-inflated and worn out tyres could be dangerous on wet roads due to the high risk of hydroplaning (skimming off and losing control at high speeds). Be sure your tyres are well inflated and in tip-top conditions (sufficient tread depth) during this rainy season.

Windshield Wiper Maintenance
Keeping your wiper clean and sharp-edged is very important in wet conditions. Overtime, the wiper accumulates oils and debris from cleaning the windshield so it’s good to clean the wiper blades from time to time to avoid blurred visibility due to oily and dirty windshield during wet conditions. Also don’t forget to top up your washer fluid and replace the wiper blades once every six months or when they start to make squeaky noise.

Brake Maintenance
Wet roads make braking more difficult because of less tyre traction. Do have your brake pads, rotors and fluids checked if you haven’t done that in six months especially if you hear squealing sound when braking.

Headlights and Taillights Maintenance
Apart from seeing clearly, the ability to be seen clearly is another important factor to consider when driving in wet conditions. Place a premium on the condition and beaming intensity of your headlights and taillights to ensure maximum visibility not just for you, but also for other road users.

Car Body Maintenance
Acidic rain water can be very detrimental to the paint jobs on your car. Rain leaves acidic deposits with every drop on your car which gradually eats off the painting on your car or any exposed metallic part, often resulting in rust. It’s advisable to wash your car at least once a week with quality car wash shampoo.

Battery Check
Chemical reaction inside the car battery tend to slow down during rainy and cold season. The battery terminals and connections can also become corroded making battery unable to charge properly when the engine is working or may become sluggish, not able to start the car when you turn on the ignition. Always check on the condition of the battery to be sure the connections are free from corrosion and if you observe it isn’t holding enough charge, simply replace it.

Engine Oil Maintenance
Cold weather makes engine oil thicker, try switching to a multi-viscous or less viscous (thinner) engine oil for better engine lubrication this rainy season. Lower viscosity oil such as 5W-30 or 5W-50, will help your engine start better and will provide more lubrication and protection from corrosion.

Drive Safely
The best maintenance you can give your car this rainy season is a safe and precautionary driving habit. Drive slowly and keep a safe distance from the car in front of you especially during heavy downpour, turn on the lights even at daytime during rainfall, minimize lane switching, keep your phone away and reduce the volume of the radio or music player so you can focus on the road, steer clear of stagnant water to avoid being stuck in a pothole and try following the vehicle in front if you’re not used to the terrain. Finally, if the rain becomes too heavy, don’t hesitate to pull over in a safe place until the storm clears away.

http://autoclinix.com.ng/car-maintenance-tips-rainy-season/

etech:
Good Day,

i was driving last week and i observed that my car (nissan primera) temperature gauge goes high at top speed, have checked to see if over heating occurs but no.

have checked my coolant level and its good please what could be the issue i need professional advise as i do not want all these road side mechanics to turn it upside down.

awaiting feedback many thanks

Scan the car if the "service engine soon" light appears on the dashboard (could be the coolant temperature switch), otherwise it could be a malfunctioning water pump.

princecemo:
Hello house, my 2006 corolla gives P2716 error code, I'm experiencing shift gear and vibrations. Pls is dere anyone DAT can recommend a good mechanic with experience.
And any idea of what the problem is, I read its an ECU error for my brand of car, a mechanic said I should change gearbox. Please any good mechanic here to help fix it.

Possible solutions
Change the transmission fluid and filter
Replace faulty Pressure Control Solenoid
Repair or replace a faulty transmission pump
Repair or replace defective transmission valve body

Except if the car is an old one, newer cars don’t normally need engine oil topping in-between service intervals. If you are having regular engine oil shortages in your car, then you need to know where the oil goes as this may indicate a looming engine problem. There are various reasons why the engine oil goes low frequently including high engine temperature, broken seal and gasket, worn out piston rings and valve guides, type of engine, driving style, type of oil used and also leaky oil pan and oil filter.

If the engine temperature does get higher than normal, thermal breakdown of the oil starts and the oil gets thinner thereby making it easier for the oil to get into the combustion chamber, get mixed with fuel and gets burned.

The valve cover protects the cylinder heads and entire engine from oil and water leaks. To do this, it is very important that the valve cover is oil tight. Since most valve covers are made with very thin pieces of metal, they can’t withstand the high pressure from inside especially at high temperatures. Now, to support the function of the valve cover is where the valve cover gasket is needed. The valve cover gasket is a molded rubber over a steel carrier or a full rubber molded seal shaped to conform to the valve cover flange to make sure that the valve cover properly seals the cylinder and prevents oil from coming out of the cylinder as the oil flows through. The gasket gets worn out either because of excessive internal engine pressure or old age. The result is an oil leak that may or may not be visible under the car or oil residue on the engine body. Another possible symptom is a smell of burning oil in the passenger cabin of the car.

The piston ring seals the combustion chamber from the crankcase while the valve guide supports the motion of the valves to seal off the combustion chamber within the valve train. Rings and valve guides do wear out as the car ages, excessive engine wear or poor car maintenance. As this happens, there will be too much clearance between touching surfaces and this will allow oil to get into the combustion chamber where it gets burnt and comes out from the exhaust as a heavy bluish smoke or a mild smoke. If the engine smoke is bluish while increasing engine speed and then disappears, then the problem is with the valve guide. If it produces a mild smoke constantly, then the problem is from the piston ring, a compression test will have to be performed on the engine to determine the condition of the piston ring.

Some engines do consume oil because of the way they are designed, most especially latest German models like Audi, BMW and Mercedez Benz. For example, for some latest BMW, Audi and Benz, it’s normal for their engines to burn 1litre of oil in less than 1000miles.

Continuous driving at high speeds/RPMs may increase oil consumption. This is because the more the engine speed the more pressure you put on the seals and gaskets and some of the oil finds its way around and gets burnt away in the combustion chamber.

Using a lower viscous(thin and lighter) oil than the one recommended for your car will cause a higher oil consumption. Low viscosity oil is thinner so it can leak past rings and valve guide seals easier than heavier viscosity oils. For most late model engines, using low viscosity synthetic oil (such as 5W-20, 0W-40 and 0W-20) is recommended.

It is common for the oil sump(pan) seal/gasket to wear out and start leaking oil. The oil pan gasket seals the oil pan to the bottom of the engine. Another possible reason for a leaking oil pan is a loose or improperly tightened oil drain plug/bolt. Having the wrong oil filter or using an old/slag filter seal can cause oil leak from the filter. The most common symptom is an observable oil leakage under the car.

http://autoclinix.com.ng/page/23/

tripoli007:
Evening house ,please I am having an issue with my 2005 Toyota Camry .. I have noticed that the car hesitates and doesn't fire well ,when the AC is turned on but starts flying when the AC is off .. Any possible solutions to this

Proper engine tune up may be needed i.e service the idle air control valve but strongly suggest you scan the car first. More clue here...
http://autoclinix.com.ng/2017/11/

megacontrol:
pls i need a spare key for a GL450 and program same. the car was shipped with just one key.
any ideas where i can get this done and cost?
thanks

Let's chat on whatsapp 08095904534

uchman:
Hello house,
Please what is the disadvantages of removing thermostat and will it be reinstalled back?

My car has passed through thick and thin on the hands of mechanics,
From Changing of gasket to metal sound to knocking sound.

After fixing the metal sound, it started having knocking sound now somewhere in the engine I don't know, very unpleasant.

Nurey and co,
Please what will I do to this?

Thanks in advance

Toyota 2AZ Engine

Why was the thermostat removed in the first place? Removing thermostat will cause higher fuel consumption and poor mileage.
http://autoclinix.com.ng/2017/10/02/before-you-remove-that-thermostat/


As for the knocking sound from engine, check this thread... https://www.nairaland.com/4428763/12-unusual-car-noises-shouldnt

nurey:
Tell your mechanic that I nurey is asking him when he carried out the research trail, what was his inference and outcome, also I need a hard copy and soft copy of the project work and results.

a little online research of drum brakes vs disc brakes will enlighten you which is better. Most who change the rear to disc is for aesthetics purposes.

Why Disc Brakes are Preferred to Drum Brakes

http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/04/05/disc-brakes-preferred-drum-brakes/

mmuonso:
businessman i call ur Phone and u dont pik

Sorry ma broda, I was at the clinic. A bit under the weather

Could be the torque converter. Get a good AT mechanic to diagnose it correctly, possibly with a code reader.

Call Uche on 08149756543 or 08095904534. We deal on tyres, rims, tyre balancing and alignment

Damolux01:
Yes...there us check engine light. How do I check the problem with the transmission?

The transmission (gear box) is part of the powertrain. Use any obdii scanner to read the code stored

FORESURE:
Hi friends , please I need help! can a faulty plug wires A.K.A ignition wires causes the car engine to stall (suddenly off) while on a motion? I use Camry 1999 and have been experiencing that for the past three weeks now . my mechanic told me is faulty plug wires because my Airflometer hoes has no leakages . please what can I do ? also my Master brake fluid is leaking . the fluid had turn to dark brown and each time I apply the brake it make a sound as if I am pumping something . please how do I fix that as well. please I need urgent solutions . thanks

In severe cases, bad ignition cables can make your engine stall. But scan your car first to confirm of it's truly the cables' fault

Is the check engine light on your dashboard? If yes, I'll advise you check what is wrong with your transmission before doing anything on it

Sounds are normal phenomenon in automobiles and every driver should know how his/her car sounds when it’s running properly regardless of the car make or model. Whenever unusual or strange sounds start coming from the car, it’s a signal that something is wrong and attention is needed, even if the noise is intermittent. There are different kinds of unusual car sounds denoting different kinds of issues from less serious to more serious ones, but most of these strange sounds help to communicate faults that can’t be monitored by the electronic systems. Here, we’ll try to highlight 12 of the most common car noises that every driver should be concerned with.


Whirring Sound
A whirring sound that increases or decreases with engine rpm is mostly caused by low power steering fluid, faulty power steering pump, faulty water pump, bad AC compressor or bad alternator bearings. The first thing to check when you hear this sound is to check the power steering fluid level, if it’s ok, check if the pump is working optimally by looking directly inside the power steering fluid while someone turns the steering wheel. The fluid should erupt if the pump is working well and the steering wheel shouldn’t be hard to turn.


Loud Bang
A worn out muffler or exhaust and a broken exhaust manifold will cause a loud bang from the front or rear of the car. A faulty catalytic converter or a rich fuel mixture could also cause such loud bang from the exhaust. Non-functioning catalyst or rich fuel mixture would always illuminate the check engine light on the dashboard so it’s advisable to have a technician check the exhaust system.


Popping Sound
Most often caused by clogged/wet fuel filter especially if the engine also hesitates or backfires as you accelerate. Other reasons could be dirty spark plugs, worn ignition wires, faulty catalyst, or ignition issues. Try checking the air filter, spark plugs and ignition wires to see if they are in good condition, if they are, have a technician check the engine compression.


Squealing Noise
A squealing noise from the engine side normally indicates a loose, worn or slipping serpentine belt. It could also indicate a misaligned water pump pulley. If the noise is coming from the wheel, it can be caused by dust in the drums, bad brake linings or distorted brake shoes. It shouldn’t be misjudged with a faulty wheel bearing or axle bearing noise because a wheel/axle bearing noise changes with speed and also intermittent with varying speeds. A faulty wheel bearing can be checked by lifting the car with a jack from the front side and then jiggling the tyre by holding it top – bottom. If it is faulty, a clearance will be felt as you jiggle it. Replacement by a competent mechanic is the only solution to any of the above mentioned parts.


Knocking Sound
Engine knock is mostly a result of clogged fuel injectors, bad fuel filter, distributor cap, timing chain or spark plugs causing ignition problems. If the knocking sound increases with rpm, it could be indicating a more serious issue like a non-pumping valve lifter or a maladjusted valve clearance. Whatever the case may be, only a competent mechanic can resolve the issue.


Ticking, Clicking or Tapping Noise
Ticking or tapping sound from the engine means the engine oil level is low or the oil pressure is below normal probably due to bad oil pump, low crankcase oil level or low grade oil/filter used. The noise could also come from collapsed hydraulic valve lifters or misadjusted valves in the valve train. Try checking the oil level first when you hear this sound, if it’s ok, try changing the oil and filter. If that doesn’t solve the problem, then the engine should be inspected by a qualified mechanic.


Hissing Sound
Usually caused by overheating engine due to leaking coolant from the cooling system. It could also result from a leaking vacuum line, burst exhaust or bad catalytic converter. Check the cooling system and under the engine for any coolant leakage and visit a competent technician to resolve this issue.





Clunking Sound
Loose or worn out stabilizer linkage, worn control (lower/upper) arm bushings or bad ball joints can cause serious clunking sounds especially when you bump over pot holes.


Screeching (Metal to Metal) Noise
When the brake pads get worn out, they come in contact with the brake discs (rotors) thereby producing a screeching noise when the brake is applied. When the screeching turns to scraping sound, it means the brake pad metal is now rubbing against the bare brake disc metal. Changing the brake pads is the easy solution.


Howling Noise
Most rear wheel drive vehicles with rear differential (axle) will make a howling sound when the differential is low in oil or if the pinion gears are not meshing properly. The noise will change as the speed increases unlike the howling sound from a bad wheel bearing which will not change with slight increase in speed. A wheel bearing howling noise will also change as you turn right or left. A bad differential bearing or gear set is not really something that you can repair yourself. This requires that the differential either be rebuilt or replaced by competent mechanic.


Grinding Sound
A grinding sound when you turn on the ignition means the kick starter is bad. When the gears that connect the starter to the flywheel/flexplate get worn out. The sound could also come from the flywheel/flexplate when the teeth gets worn down so that the starter gear doesn’t engage properly and grind against the flywheel.


Flapping Noise
When an object interferes with the rolling of the cooling fan, a flapping noise would be heard. It could also result from a disintegrating belt. These problems can almost always be solved easily and are usually not cause for concern, but certain impediments can damage fan blades if left unattended.


http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/01/29/12-unusual-car-n…-shouldnt-ignore/

Does your car still pulls even after adjusting your wheel alignment? Many things can make a car pull even if the wheels are properly aligned including suspension issues, braking faults, unequal shock absorber height, tyre pressure difference, bending roads, etc.

A clearance from any part of the suspension such as tie rod, weak bushings, stabilizer linkage, lower/upper arm, hub bearing can make the car pull right or left. To be sure of this, have your car lifted with a jack from the side rail or chassis, then shake the tyre vertically (by holding the tyre top and bottom) and then shake it, if you fill any clearance it’s probably the hub bearing. Shaking the tyre horizontally (by holding the tyre sideways), if there is clearance it’s probably the tie rod or lower arm.

If you notice your car pulls either left or right when you step on your brake pedal, then the brake disk needs to be checked. Worn out brake pads too can make this happen.

Your front shock absorbers need to be of equal heights to keep your steering straight. Leaked shock absorbers on either side can make it lose its hydraulic thereby altering height. This makes the car slightly bend to towards the faulty shock absorber and also make your steering bent even if the car doesn’t pull.

The front tyres must be of equal pressure if you must keep your car straight. Most cars use between 32psi to 35psi as recommended pressure. If either of your front tyre is lower than normal, it may cause the car to pull towards that side when driving.

Some roads are usually bent by construction because of drainage issue. When on such roads, your car may tend to pull towards the lower side of the road, so do take note of that.

If after adjusting your vehicle’s alignment you still notice a pull to either side (not both sides), note that these conditions must be met for your car to move straight:

All 4 wheels must be pointing the same direction
All 4 wheels must offer the same rolling resistance
The steering turning angle must be the same (to each side)
To be sure your 4 tyres are pointing the same direction, bend and look at the tyres from the front at each side and see if the front tyre is parallel with the rear tyre.

Make sure your front tyres have the same tread pattern so they can give the same rolling resistance. Having different tyre tread pattern, different brands or worn out tyres can make the car to swerve to either side while driving.

To check your steering turning angle, keep your steering at the center, turn to the left while counting the turning angle to the end, bring the steering back at the center, then turn it to the right while counting the turning angle again. If there is a huge difference in turning angle for instance if turning to the right has an added 450, your car steering may not be straight when driving even if the car manages to move straight.

janefarms2015:
Op, many vulcanizers use 'fufu' as gum when fixing tryes to rims, is this normal? Whats d alternative?

The only alternative is a rim/bead sealer, but it's quite expensive to get here in Nigeria except in big auto-repair companies

aumoria:
Can someone please help on how to fix rear tyre tilt in Rav4 2002 model? The tyres tilt inward at the top and there is no provision to set alignment on rear tyres.

Check if you can readjust it from the shock. Slack the 2 bolts holding the shock & reposition the hub accordingly.

akefemi:
Morning, I have a honda civic 2001 model. I noticed that anytime I on the Ac for a long period the car would not accelerate. Any ideas of what might be wrong?

It could be your compressor dragging the engine. Have an AC specialist work on your compressor

derekwan9:
Hello Room!
Please am using a Toyota camry 2004 model which I
bought Last year. I noticed that when the car is driving
Uphill is very slow and it doesn't go more 20km... which
makes it hard switching gear while driving... But on a level
ground it's fast. I was told by a mechanic to do a Gear oil
change which I bought Toyota Gear oil Type IV.
still am still noticing same issue...
Please Guru in the House what can I do before am been
reaped off by my mechanic..... Thanks

Is the check engine light illuminated on your dashboard? If yes, have your car scanned may be the catalyst is blocked & your engine may be loosing power. If no, then let a mechanic test the fuel pressure

Tyres are one of the most stressed components of a car and they are normally built to last as long as possible considering the rigour they go through and their vulnerability to road hazards. Most of the factors that cause tyre damage and blow-out can be avoided by being a bit more careful when driving with regularly maintenance. Now let us examine some of those causes of tyre failure and how they can be prevented.



Excessive Driving Speed
Driving at high speed increases the temperature inside the tyres and they may get very hot during hot weather. This can lead to tread separation or a sudden blow-out while driving. Try using tyres that are speed rated if you frequently drive at high speed. Speed rated tyres dissipate heat faster and can better adapt during hot conditions than normal tyres. The speed ratings on the sidewall of the tyre are indicated by the alphabets R, S, T, U, H, V, Z, W, or Y representing 170km/h, 180km/h, 190km/h, 200km/h, 210km/h, 240km/h, 240km/h, 270km/h and 300km/h respectively.



Expired Tyres
Although tyres do not have a fixed expiry date, their lifetime is limited as rubbers get harder overtime. Using expired tyres can be fatal because they dry out with age and become weaker. When on high speed, tyre pressure increases with heat and can lead to a blow-out especially when the tyre is weak. Also, the harder the tyre gets, the less the gripping or traction it will have on the road especially on wet roads, which will increase the risk of skidding when braking suddenly. It’s advisable to replace your tyres when you start noticing cracks on the surface or sidewall as this indicates weakness due to old age. Additionally, tyres have date codes at the sidewall. Most tyres should be replaced if they are 4 years old or more even if they still look new or unused.



Factory Error
Sometimes factory defects and impairements occur in new tyres due to defaults in manufacturing process which affects the quality level of the tyres. These defects can come in different forms such as lack of uniformity across the tyre, improper balancing of tyre, foreign objects inserted in tyre during production, structural defects, etc. These defects are hard to identify on the outside but can still cause negative driving effects or tyre damage. Although not all defects are dangerous, some defects directly affect the performance and safety of your car. It’s always good to inspect new tyres for external damage of thread layers or bubbles when installing it in a rim or when it’s rolling on a tyre balancer. Other defects can be identified while driving because of imbalances and separation in tyre thread or bulging on the sidewall which may eventually lead to a blow-up if ignored.



Installation Errors
Improper mounting of tyres by technicians could result in costly damage. Mistakes such as using incorrect bead lubricant, inserting the bead wrongly thereby stretching/tearing the bead, failure to recognize the tyre pressure monitoring sensors (TPMS) and Run Flat Technology tyres or mounting tyre on wrong sized rim. Always make sure the right professionals handle your tyre changing to avoid future damages.



Bad Roads
Hitting a bump or jumping into potholes when driving on high speed can have huge impact on your tyres like causing punctures and sidewall cracks. Although bumps and potholes can be avoided, there are times these hazards are unavoidable. They eventually cause the tyres to fail even if they don’t go flat immediately especially on low profile or highly inflated tyres.



Worn-out Tyres
When tyres begin to age, they start to wear-out mostly due to mechanical issues, increasing the risk of damage. Bald tyres tend to loose traction in wet conditions and build up heat faster than normal tyres. Modern tyres are made to withstand high level heat but when they begin to wear down treads, the heat could rise up to dangerous level and increases the risk of a blow-out. Always inspect your tyres for worn down treads and replace appropriately.





Overloading
Having too much weight on the tyres can cause excessive heat build up in the tyres and may result in tyre destruction, more especially on utility cars, vans and trucks. Always check the load rating on tyres’ sidewall to be sure it matches the recommendation on your car owner’s manual before purchasing. Also try not to exceed the maximum axle load eating before purchasing a replacement axle.



Badly Inflated Tyres
This is undoubtedly the most common cause of tyre failure. When tyres are under-inflated, it causes excessive flexing on the sidewalls resulting in build up of heat at high speeds that can lead to tread separation and blow-out the tyres. Under-inflation can also cause irregular tread wear and affect your car’s driving performance and safety. Similarly, Over-inflated tyres can wear-out the tyres at the center increasing the tyres’ vulnerability to damage. When Over-inflated tyres jump into potholes or climb over a bump on high speed, the excessive pressure within can cause a bulge on the sidewall of the tyre, increasing the risk of a blow-out. Do ensure your tyres are always inflated to the recommended tyre pressure written on the driver-side door of your car to avoid costly damage.



Source: http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/02/27/8-common-causes-of-tyre-failure/

The parking brake is designed to supplement the transmission when the car is parked especially on an incline. By engaging the parking brake, the load on the transmission is reduced thereby avoiding unnecessary damage and ensuring the vehicle is firmly parked on an incline. The brake warning light comes on when the parking brake is applied and goes off when it is released. If the brake light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is definitely wrong. Common reasons the brake will stay on after releasing the parking brake include: low brake fluid, faulty ABS, bad level sensor, loss of hydraulic pressure, misadjusted or failed switch, etc.



A sensor in the brake master cylinder illuminates the brake warning light when the hydraulic fluid (brake oil) drops below a certain point. If the oil gets too low or gets low often even after a refill or top-up, it means there may be a leak in the braking system. A common symptom is the brake light going on or off when turning as the fluid level changes.

If a problem occurs within the ABS, the ABS warning light turns on, sometimes with the BRAKE warning light. If both lights come on together after releasing the handbrake, then the ABS should be checked with a scanning device to determine which part of the ABS is faulty.



The brake fluid level sensor is usually mounted on the side of the master cylinder or on the lid/cap. A bad or failing brake fluid level sensor will trigger the BRAKE warning light.



The brake circuit system is designed in a way that it has two hydraulic lines. In most front-wheel cars, one line works the right-front while the other works the left-rear. On rear-wheel drive cars, one line applies the front brakes and the other applies the rear brakes. A pressure differential switch is usually mounted on the master cylinder or on the brake line exiting the master cylinder. The switch will trigger the BRAKE warning light if there is an uneven fluid pressure in one or more lines when the brakes are applied and could also cause the car to pull to one side during braking.



The parking brake switch triggers the BRAKE warning light on when the parking brake is engaged and shuts the light off when the parking brake is released. A failing switch will make the light stay on even when the parking brake is released. To confirm if the parking brake switch is functioning well, try jiggling the parking brake handle after it is down, if the light turns off or blinks, then the problem is from the switch and should be replaced.



Always make sure the parking brake is completely released if you notice the BRAKE light doesn’t go off by jiggling the handle so that the mechanical part of the parking brake system is completely relaxed and that there is no tension on the cables or levers.

Source:
http://autoclinix.com.ng/2017/11/14/why-your-brake-warning-light-stays-on-after-releasing-your-parking-brake/

TUNIS (FIBA AfroBasket 2017) - Democratic Republic of Congo point guard Myck Kabongo is relishing his side victory over FIBA AfroBasket title holder.

In Sunday's Group A final game, Kabongo inspired his team to a historic 83-77 win over Nigeria at the Salle Omnisport de Rades, on the outskirts of Tunis.


Kabongo became a game-changer for the DR Congo against Nigeria

The 25-year-old guard, who contributed 17 points and a team-high eight assists, shared his feelings with FIBA.basketball afterward.

As they tried to put behind their loss to Mali on Day 1, the Congolese came up stronger against Cote d'Ivoire, before dispatching Nigeria.

"We resolved to come together as a team after the painful overtime loss to Mali, and it's a decision that has worked for us.

"Beating the defending champion, Nigeria might be surprising to many but our belief is that every game count and we are ready for any opposition in the Quarter-Final," he explained.

And, for Nigeria captain Ike Diogu, who sat out the entire duration of the 2015 winning squad due to injury, losing to the Congolese side serves a wake-up call to him and the rest of the team.

Diogu says the FIBA Afrobasket has grown and no country is a pushover.

The 6 ft8 (2.03m) power forward says Nigeria is ready for any country in the Final Phase.

"Honestly, I must say that the FIBA Afrobasket Championship has come of age and will continue to get better so all sixteen teams have equal chances of winning it.

"We are not deterred by our loss to RD Congo, but will only use it as a wake-up call that the championship is getting tougher as we await whoever comes our way in the quarter-final," he concluded.

http://www.fiba.basketball/afrobasket/2017/news/dr-congo-shock-reigning-champions-nigeria

wow... i saw this guy when he was lying down on the floor in front of mobil filing station, some guyz wanted to help him up but he jumped up himself and started chasing everybody. 15minutes later i saw people gather at the bridge looking for someone who jumped into the water. i knew he must have been the one. he had mental issues for sure.... RIP

the guy wasn't in a good mental state

tinubu's boy bisi... he's jst a political appointment cos he's a lawyer.

Monday Lawrence the Ladipo tout