UceeGod's Posts
Nairaland Forum › UceeGod's Profile › UceeGod's Posts
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 16 17 18 19 20 21 (of 21 pages)
megacontrol:Let's chat on whatsapp 08095904534 |
uchman:Why was the thermostat removed in the first place? Removing thermostat will cause higher fuel consumption and poor mileage. http://autoclinix.com.ng/2017/10/02/before-you-remove-that-thermostat/ As for the knocking sound from engine, check this thread... https://www.nairaland.com/4428763/12-unusual-car-noises-shouldnt |
nurey:Why Disc Brakes are Preferred to Drum Brakes http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/04/05/disc-brakes-preferred-drum-brakes/ |
mmuonso:Sorry ma broda, I was at the clinic. A bit under the weather |
Could be the torque converter. Get a good AT mechanic to diagnose it correctly, possibly with a code reader. |
Call Uche on 08149756543 or 08095904534. We deal on tyres, rims, tyre balancing and alignment |
Damolux01:The transmission (gear box) is part of the powertrain. Use any obdii scanner to read the code stored |
FORESURE:In severe cases, bad ignition cables can make your engine stall. But scan your car first to confirm of it's truly the cables' fault |
Is the check engine light on your dashboard? If yes, I'll advise you check what is wrong with your transmission before doing anything on it |
Sounds are normal phenomenon in automobiles and every driver should know how his/her car sounds when it’s running properly regardless of the car make or model. Whenever unusual or strange sounds start coming from the car, it’s a signal that something is wrong and attention is needed, even if the noise is intermittent. There are different kinds of unusual car sounds denoting different kinds of issues from less serious to more serious ones, but most of these strange sounds help to communicate faults that can’t be monitored by the electronic systems. Here, we’ll try to highlight 12 of the most common car noises that every driver should be concerned with. Whirring Sound A whirring sound that increases or decreases with engine rpm is mostly caused by low power steering fluid, faulty power steering pump, faulty water pump, bad AC compressor or bad alternator bearings. The first thing to check when you hear this sound is to check the power steering fluid level, if it’s ok, check if the pump is working optimally by looking directly inside the power steering fluid while someone turns the steering wheel. The fluid should erupt if the pump is working well and the steering wheel shouldn’t be hard to turn. Loud Bang A worn out muffler or exhaust and a broken exhaust manifold will cause a loud bang from the front or rear of the car. A faulty catalytic converter or a rich fuel mixture could also cause such loud bang from the exhaust. Non-functioning catalyst or rich fuel mixture would always illuminate the check engine light on the dashboard so it’s advisable to have a technician check the exhaust system. Popping Sound Most often caused by clogged/wet fuel filter especially if the engine also hesitates or backfires as you accelerate. Other reasons could be dirty spark plugs, worn ignition wires, faulty catalyst, or ignition issues. Try checking the air filter, spark plugs and ignition wires to see if they are in good condition, if they are, have a technician check the engine compression. Squealing Noise A squealing noise from the engine side normally indicates a loose, worn or slipping serpentine belt. It could also indicate a misaligned water pump pulley. If the noise is coming from the wheel, it can be caused by dust in the drums, bad brake linings or distorted brake shoes. It shouldn’t be misjudged with a faulty wheel bearing or axle bearing noise because a wheel/axle bearing noise changes with speed and also intermittent with varying speeds. A faulty wheel bearing can be checked by lifting the car with a jack from the front side and then jiggling the tyre by holding it top – bottom. If it is faulty, a clearance will be felt as you jiggle it. Replacement by a competent mechanic is the only solution to any of the above mentioned parts. Knocking Sound Engine knock is mostly a result of clogged fuel injectors, bad fuel filter, distributor cap, timing chain or spark plugs causing ignition problems. If the knocking sound increases with rpm, it could be indicating a more serious issue like a non-pumping valve lifter or a maladjusted valve clearance. Whatever the case may be, only a competent mechanic can resolve the issue. Ticking, Clicking or Tapping Noise Ticking or tapping sound from the engine means the engine oil level is low or the oil pressure is below normal probably due to bad oil pump, low crankcase oil level or low grade oil/filter used. The noise could also come from collapsed hydraulic valve lifters or misadjusted valves in the valve train. Try checking the oil level first when you hear this sound, if it’s ok, try changing the oil and filter. If that doesn’t solve the problem, then the engine should be inspected by a qualified mechanic. Hissing Sound Usually caused by overheating engine due to leaking coolant from the cooling system. It could also result from a leaking vacuum line, burst exhaust or bad catalytic converter. Check the cooling system and under the engine for any coolant leakage and visit a competent technician to resolve this issue. Clunking Sound Loose or worn out stabilizer linkage, worn control (lower/upper) arm bushings or bad ball joints can cause serious clunking sounds especially when you bump over pot holes. Screeching (Metal to Metal) Noise When the brake pads get worn out, they come in contact with the brake discs (rotors) thereby producing a screeching noise when the brake is applied. When the screeching turns to scraping sound, it means the brake pad metal is now rubbing against the bare brake disc metal. Changing the brake pads is the easy solution. Howling Noise Most rear wheel drive vehicles with rear differential (axle) will make a howling sound when the differential is low in oil or if the pinion gears are not meshing properly. The noise will change as the speed increases unlike the howling sound from a bad wheel bearing which will not change with slight increase in speed. A wheel bearing howling noise will also change as you turn right or left. A bad differential bearing or gear set is not really something that you can repair yourself. This requires that the differential either be rebuilt or replaced by competent mechanic. Grinding Sound A grinding sound when you turn on the ignition means the kick starter is bad. When the gears that connect the starter to the flywheel/flexplate get worn out. The sound could also come from the flywheel/flexplate when the teeth gets worn down so that the starter gear doesn’t engage properly and grind against the flywheel. Flapping Noise When an object interferes with the rolling of the cooling fan, a flapping noise would be heard. It could also result from a disintegrating belt. These problems can almost always be solved easily and are usually not cause for concern, but certain impediments can damage fan blades if left unattended. http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/01/29/12-unusual-car-n…-shouldnt-ignore/
|
BISSE32: |
Does your car still pulls even after adjusting your wheel alignment? Many things can make a car pull even if the wheels are properly aligned including suspension issues, braking faults, unequal shock absorber height, tyre pressure difference, bending roads, etc. A clearance from any part of the suspension such as tie rod, weak bushings, stabilizer linkage, lower/upper arm, hub bearing can make the car pull right or left. To be sure of this, have your car lifted with a jack from the side rail or chassis, then shake the tyre vertically (by holding the tyre top and bottom) and then shake it, if you fill any clearance it’s probably the hub bearing. Shaking the tyre horizontally (by holding the tyre sideways), if there is clearance it’s probably the tie rod or lower arm. If you notice your car pulls either left or right when you step on your brake pedal, then the brake disk needs to be checked. Worn out brake pads too can make this happen. Your front shock absorbers need to be of equal heights to keep your steering straight. Leaked shock absorbers on either side can make it lose its hydraulic thereby altering height. This makes the car slightly bend to towards the faulty shock absorber and also make your steering bent even if the car doesn’t pull. The front tyres must be of equal pressure if you must keep your car straight. Most cars use between 32psi to 35psi as recommended pressure. If either of your front tyre is lower than normal, it may cause the car to pull towards that side when driving. Some roads are usually bent by construction because of drainage issue. When on such roads, your car may tend to pull towards the lower side of the road, so do take note of that. If after adjusting your vehicle’s alignment you still notice a pull to either side (not both sides), note that these conditions must be met for your car to move straight: All 4 wheels must be pointing the same direction All 4 wheels must offer the same rolling resistance The steering turning angle must be the same (to each side) To be sure your 4 tyres are pointing the same direction, bend and look at the tyres from the front at each side and see if the front tyre is parallel with the rear tyre. Make sure your front tyres have the same tread pattern so they can give the same rolling resistance. Having different tyre tread pattern, different brands or worn out tyres can make the car to swerve to either side while driving. To check your steering turning angle, keep your steering at the center, turn to the left while counting the turning angle to the end, bring the steering back at the center, then turn it to the right while counting the turning angle again. If there is a huge difference in turning angle for instance if turning to the right has an added 450, your car steering may not be straight when driving even if the car manages to move straight.
|
janefarms2015:The only alternative is a rim/bead sealer, but it's quite expensive to get here in Nigeria except in big auto-repair companies
|
aumoria:Check if you can readjust it from the shock. Slack the 2 bolts holding the shock & reposition the hub accordingly. |
akefemi:It could be your compressor dragging the engine. Have an AC specialist work on your compressor |
derekwan9:Is the check engine light illuminated on your dashboard? If yes, have your car scanned may be the catalyst is blocked & your engine may be loosing power. If no, then let a mechanic test the fuel pressure |
Tyres are one of the most stressed components of a car and they are normally built to last as long as possible considering the rigour they go through and their vulnerability to road hazards. Most of the factors that cause tyre damage and blow-out can be avoided by being a bit more careful when driving with regularly maintenance. Now let us examine some of those causes of tyre failure and how they can be prevented. Excessive Driving Speed Driving at high speed increases the temperature inside the tyres and they may get very hot during hot weather. This can lead to tread separation or a sudden blow-out while driving. Try using tyres that are speed rated if you frequently drive at high speed. Speed rated tyres dissipate heat faster and can better adapt during hot conditions than normal tyres. The speed ratings on the sidewall of the tyre are indicated by the alphabets R, S, T, U, H, V, Z, W, or Y representing 170km/h, 180km/h, 190km/h, 200km/h, 210km/h, 240km/h, 240km/h, 270km/h and 300km/h respectively. Expired Tyres Although tyres do not have a fixed expiry date, their lifetime is limited as rubbers get harder overtime. Using expired tyres can be fatal because they dry out with age and become weaker. When on high speed, tyre pressure increases with heat and can lead to a blow-out especially when the tyre is weak. Also, the harder the tyre gets, the less the gripping or traction it will have on the road especially on wet roads, which will increase the risk of skidding when braking suddenly. It’s advisable to replace your tyres when you start noticing cracks on the surface or sidewall as this indicates weakness due to old age. Additionally, tyres have date codes at the sidewall. Most tyres should be replaced if they are 4 years old or more even if they still look new or unused. Factory Error Sometimes factory defects and impairements occur in new tyres due to defaults in manufacturing process which affects the quality level of the tyres. These defects can come in different forms such as lack of uniformity across the tyre, improper balancing of tyre, foreign objects inserted in tyre during production, structural defects, etc. These defects are hard to identify on the outside but can still cause negative driving effects or tyre damage. Although not all defects are dangerous, some defects directly affect the performance and safety of your car. It’s always good to inspect new tyres for external damage of thread layers or bubbles when installing it in a rim or when it’s rolling on a tyre balancer. Other defects can be identified while driving because of imbalances and separation in tyre thread or bulging on the sidewall which may eventually lead to a blow-up if ignored. Installation Errors Improper mounting of tyres by technicians could result in costly damage. Mistakes such as using incorrect bead lubricant, inserting the bead wrongly thereby stretching/tearing the bead, failure to recognize the tyre pressure monitoring sensors (TPMS) and Run Flat Technology tyres or mounting tyre on wrong sized rim. Always make sure the right professionals handle your tyre changing to avoid future damages. Bad Roads Hitting a bump or jumping into potholes when driving on high speed can have huge impact on your tyres like causing punctures and sidewall cracks. Although bumps and potholes can be avoided, there are times these hazards are unavoidable. They eventually cause the tyres to fail even if they don’t go flat immediately especially on low profile or highly inflated tyres. Worn-out Tyres When tyres begin to age, they start to wear-out mostly due to mechanical issues, increasing the risk of damage. Bald tyres tend to loose traction in wet conditions and build up heat faster than normal tyres. Modern tyres are made to withstand high level heat but when they begin to wear down treads, the heat could rise up to dangerous level and increases the risk of a blow-out. Always inspect your tyres for worn down treads and replace appropriately. Overloading Having too much weight on the tyres can cause excessive heat build up in the tyres and may result in tyre destruction, more especially on utility cars, vans and trucks. Always check the load rating on tyres’ sidewall to be sure it matches the recommendation on your car owner’s manual before purchasing. Also try not to exceed the maximum axle load eating before purchasing a replacement axle. Badly Inflated Tyres This is undoubtedly the most common cause of tyre failure. When tyres are under-inflated, it causes excessive flexing on the sidewalls resulting in build up of heat at high speeds that can lead to tread separation and blow-out the tyres. Under-inflation can also cause irregular tread wear and affect your car’s driving performance and safety. Similarly, Over-inflated tyres can wear-out the tyres at the center increasing the tyres’ vulnerability to damage. When Over-inflated tyres jump into potholes or climb over a bump on high speed, the excessive pressure within can cause a bulge on the sidewall of the tyre, increasing the risk of a blow-out. Do ensure your tyres are always inflated to the recommended tyre pressure written on the driver-side door of your car to avoid costly damage. Source: http://autoclinix.com.ng/2018/02/27/8-common-causes-of-tyre-failure/
|
The parking brake is designed to supplement the transmission when the car is parked especially on an incline. By engaging the parking brake, the load on the transmission is reduced thereby avoiding unnecessary damage and ensuring the vehicle is firmly parked on an incline. The brake warning light comes on when the parking brake is applied and goes off when it is released. If the brake light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is definitely wrong. Common reasons the brake will stay on after releasing the parking brake include: low brake fluid, faulty ABS, bad level sensor, loss of hydraulic pressure, misadjusted or failed switch, etc. A sensor in the brake master cylinder illuminates the brake warning light when the hydraulic fluid (brake oil) drops below a certain point. If the oil gets too low or gets low often even after a refill or top-up, it means there may be a leak in the braking system. A common symptom is the brake light going on or off when turning as the fluid level changes. If a problem occurs within the ABS, the ABS warning light turns on, sometimes with the BRAKE warning light. If both lights come on together after releasing the handbrake, then the ABS should be checked with a scanning device to determine which part of the ABS is faulty. The brake fluid level sensor is usually mounted on the side of the master cylinder or on the lid/cap. A bad or failing brake fluid level sensor will trigger the BRAKE warning light. The brake circuit system is designed in a way that it has two hydraulic lines. In most front-wheel cars, one line works the right-front while the other works the left-rear. On rear-wheel drive cars, one line applies the front brakes and the other applies the rear brakes. A pressure differential switch is usually mounted on the master cylinder or on the brake line exiting the master cylinder. The switch will trigger the BRAKE warning light if there is an uneven fluid pressure in one or more lines when the brakes are applied and could also cause the car to pull to one side during braking. The parking brake switch triggers the BRAKE warning light on when the parking brake is engaged and shuts the light off when the parking brake is released. A failing switch will make the light stay on even when the parking brake is released. To confirm if the parking brake switch is functioning well, try jiggling the parking brake handle after it is down, if the light turns off or blinks, then the problem is from the switch and should be replaced. Always make sure the parking brake is completely released if you notice the BRAKE light doesn’t go off by jiggling the handle so that the mechanical part of the parking brake system is completely relaxed and that there is no tension on the cables or levers. Source: http://autoclinix.com.ng/2017/11/14/why-your-brake-warning-light-stays-on-after-releasing-your-parking-brake/ |
TUNIS (FIBA AfroBasket 2017) - Democratic Republic of Congo point guard Myck Kabongo is relishing his side victory over FIBA AfroBasket title holder. In Sunday's Group A final game, Kabongo inspired his team to a historic 83-77 win over Nigeria at the Salle Omnisport de Rades, on the outskirts of Tunis. Kabongo became a game-changer for the DR Congo against Nigeria The 25-year-old guard, who contributed 17 points and a team-high eight assists, shared his feelings with FIBA.basketball afterward. As they tried to put behind their loss to Mali on Day 1, the Congolese came up stronger against Cote d'Ivoire, before dispatching Nigeria. "We resolved to come together as a team after the painful overtime loss to Mali, and it's a decision that has worked for us. "Beating the defending champion, Nigeria might be surprising to many but our belief is that every game count and we are ready for any opposition in the Quarter-Final," he explained. And, for Nigeria captain Ike Diogu, who sat out the entire duration of the 2015 winning squad due to injury, losing to the Congolese side serves a wake-up call to him and the rest of the team. Diogu says the FIBA Afrobasket has grown and no country is a pushover. The 6 ft8 (2.03m) power forward says Nigeria is ready for any country in the Final Phase. "Honestly, I must say that the FIBA Afrobasket Championship has come of age and will continue to get better so all sixteen teams have equal chances of winning it. "We are not deterred by our loss to RD Congo, but will only use it as a wake-up call that the championship is getting tougher as we await whoever comes our way in the quarter-final," he concluded. http://www.fiba.basketball/afrobasket/2017/news/dr-congo-shock-reigning-champions-nigeria |
wow... i saw this guy when he was lying down on the floor in front of mobil filing station, some guyz wanted to help him up but he jumped up himself and started chasing everybody. 15minutes later i saw people gather at the bridge looking for someone who jumped into the water. i knew he must have been the one. he had mental issues for sure.... RIP |
the guy wasn't in a good mental state |
tinubu's boy bisi... he's jst a political appointment cos he's a lawyer. |
Monday Lawrence the Ladipo tout |
Governor Ifeanyi Okowa of Delta State, yesterday, advised Nigerians to be concerned with the change process rather than President Muhammadu Buhari’s wealth. Okowa decried various statements from some Nigerians over the Buhari’s declaration, saying “What the President has today in terms of his personal wealth ougth not to be the business of Nigerians.” He spoke in Benin, Edo State at the 13 years anniversary celebration of Rock of Ages Christian Assembly International Incorporation. Okowa, however, said that Buhari’s declaration was a welcome development. Responding to questions from newsmen after the service on President Buhari’s asset declaration, he said: “I don’t comment on asset declaration, assets declaration is personal. “But his personal wealth and all he has at the moment is not supposed to be the business of Nigerians. The only thing that we should be concerned about is what is going to be his output in government, that is where we should concentrate on.” http://www.vanguardngr.com/2015/09/be-concerned-with-change-not-buharis-wealth-okowa/ |
Kumuyi's message is simple, true xtians shouldn't join in Xmas celebration cos it's of pagan origin, if u must celebrate d birth of Jesus, do it anytime. A lot of people don't read b4 making comment. |
A blind man, Shaibu Ibrahim, 26, on Tuesday dragged Shehu Sarki, another blind man to a Grade 1 Area Court, Aso Pada, Mararaba, Nasarawa State. News Agency of Nigeria reports that Ibrahim accused Sarki, 32, his friend and the chairman of the blind peoples’ association of the area of allegedly enticing his wife, Lami Ibrahim, 23. He said, “Sometime in June, our chairman, Sarki, helped me to get a woman, Lami, for marriage. “After our marriage in July, Sarki later enticed my wife and took her away from my house. “I later discovered that my wife is staying in one of his rooms and he has been sleeping with her.” The offence was said to have contravened Section 389 of the Penal Code, and if convicted, the accused could spend two years in prison. The accused, however, pleaded not guilty. The presiding judge, Mr Albert Maga, granted the accused person bail in the sum of N20, 000 and a surety in like sum. He adjourned the case till September 9 for hearing. www.punchng.com/metro/blind-man-sues-blind-man-for-enticing-wife |
am @ Ladipo right now & can confirm heavy fighting btw a task force by the new baba oloja & some ibo boys..... Tryn to take some pics |
worse still these guys believe they'r hustling |
this guy was imposed on the market by the mushin lg against the wish if the people.... well he's gonna hv a tough time from my ibo brodas |
HELL NO!! don't be fooled by their media shenanigans, they'r not better than NPF in any way. The last time they arrested some 60 suspected pipeline vandals @ Majidun Ikorodu, 100% of those arrested were innocent. Believe me, i got this from a reliable source. |
well, i stay @ konu isawo, i heard d sporadic gunshots that night, one thing i can attest to is that d police are very much involved in oil theft in that area, so i don't blame d ncsdc 4 confronting them |