It depends on what you intend to use it to achieve.

You can get the BMS from vendors here or AliExpress

Southboy:
I just got 360 pieces of 18650 batteries, please how many bms would you recommend I buy plus where can I get it. Thank you

You can achieve this by replacing the wires from inverter output with the wires from inverter ON switch at the relay connection.

ajabani4allah:


That part "put off the inverter" pls can you shed more light on this? I have a 10A 8pin DIY relay I am using but it can only transfer the load but not put off the inverter. Can the relay achieve this? I need something that can also put off the inverter when I am on grid to save my battery from ideal power consumption of the inverter

A friend of mine that is based in Enugu told me that the state governor is currently taxing people using Solar when I tried to convince him to go Solar.

I'm yet to validate this claim Sha.

JustCryptos:
Don't be surprised if the government introduced Solar tax.

Why do you prefer Daly BMS?

tetralogyfallot:
Ready for installation

You can check off grid garage.

He has interesting videos

capnies:
Wonderful brothers please can you recommend a YouTube channel where I can learn this DIY lifepo4 battery building or teach me or both. Please

I believe Deye inverters has a function that activates an over discharged battery.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

jonescosmos:
It's possible that it has discharged below BMS Cut off Voltage, so you might have to Jump Start it.

To do that, you will need a DC Power Supply, Open the battery and Clip your DC Power Supply to the Battery Main Terminals leading to the BMS.
Adjust your Voltage to the Nominal Voltage of the Battery Pack. Turn on your Lithium Battery by its switch.

The DC Power Supply will confuse the BMS to think that your Battery Pack has not discharged and turn on the Mosfets.

Once the battery turns on, start power up your charge source to start charging your battery then remove the DC Power Supply.

You can also charge the cells directly using this method but this is only if you know what you are doing.

RESOLUTION UPDATE.

Finally I've been able to resolve the issue I was having with my inverter.

Apparently the inverter only needed a factory reset due to the software update performed on it by Deye.

Special thanks to @Jonescosmos for all the assistance and for also intervening when Mr. Fadi @ Solarco was understanding my English .

I truly appreciate you Boss.

Thanks to everyone who gave their 2 cents on my case you guys are the Best.

Ferdiwar:
Update on my setup.

Sometime last month I connected all my AC to the smart load of my inverter, and noticed that the inverter was going off and on repeatedly for like 5x before stabilizing back on. This would happen severely in a day before the sun goes down as I discovered it only happens during the day.

As a result I reverted back to the previous connection and disabled the smart load thinking that was my issue, but it still persisted, so I did some reading online and concluded it might be a software bug.

I emailed Deye and requested for diagnosis and update which they did by pushing a remote firmware update to the inverter, yet the issue continued (in my mind I was like I spent huge money to buy a faulty batch of an expensive inverter). I sent an update email yesterday to Deye explaining that the issue is not yet resolved (yet to get an update though) after it happened for the 2nd time in the morning (around 11am). At this point I thought it wise to calm down and observe the inverter when next it happens rather than be angry, so I stayed put in front of the inverter and watched it.

Few minutes later it happened again this time around I was watching the screen and boom I caught it in the act and it happens to be that the voltages of 2 strings of panels attached to the 2 MPPTs of the inverter exceeded the max 500v of the inverter (string 1 5x Longi 570w panels was pumping 240v+ as at that time while string 2 5x Jinko 625w panels were pushing over 265v both exceeding the 500v max voltage).

As I saw that I quickly switched off string 1 breaker and the inverter stabilized instantly which suggests that the input of the 2 MPPTs are somehow connected in series or something like that as one of the MPPTs can take 500v alone but the 2 MPPTs combined together is still 500v.

No matter what you do, do not exceed the max voltage of your inverter and take not of the tolerance of the VOC of your panels when connecting your panels to your CC or inverter to avoid stories just in case your inverter or CC is not equipped to handle any form voltage spike above the rated max voltage of the inverter or CC.


@Jonescosmos the 500v is for the 2 MPPTs after all

I was over happy when I saw it and truly appreciated spending the amount I spent then to buy it.

I'll maintain the 5kwh as advised for compatibility purposes.

jonescosmos:
Deye no fit make that mistake na.

Yes it's in the attachment I shared.

mctfopt:


Don't leave us hanging, is there one?

Deye 8kva inverter is around 2.6m.

Oshomo12:


How much is brand new one?
How long has it been in service?

10kva Deye with dual mppt will just be a little higher than the 1.8m

I read about the effects of in-rush current and the damages it can cause to inverters, I opened my battery to confirm that it was fitted with a pre charged resistor .

jonescosmos:
Don't waste your money going to buy another Inverter. The problem is that the IN-RUSH Battery Current damaged the DC Bus Gates of your inverter which is likely to continue even if you buy another Inverter. That spark your noticed was supposed to be absorbed or suppressed by the Pre-Charge Resistor first and softly starts the Inverter LV DC Bus Circuit.

Newer Cworth Batteries has an RJ45 type Pre-Charge Resistor that you can plug into the RJ45 Port to limit the In rush current. Some other Lithium Batteries has the DIP Switch type of this Resistor that you can toggle to on and off.

If your Battery has an RJ45 Port, I would suggest you approach Cworth Service center to grab this Resistor. If your battery does not have an RJ45 Port ask them for a Pre-Charge Resistor or you can buy one to retrofit in your battery.

Every Installer, DIYer, etc is supposed to have this Resistor because some Warrantees does not cover damages caused by In-Rush Current. Take note.

You can google how to protect your Inverter from in-rush current for more info.

Sorry for the sad experience. I usually call or chat them to confirm availability before placing orders.

You can also explore other options like Longi from Solarco in Abuja (Mr. Fadi is a very helpful and reasonable person).

isangjohnson:

Let me cut the long story short. That was the available pv.
I was planning to use 2 pcs of 580w Junko pv but the of trouble/stress of bringing them down to Uyo from either Abuja or Lagos was too much.
As I'm typing this, I've 5 pcs of 580w Jinko pv in Abuja and I'm told to pay 30k each for the waybill.
Again, I checked and saw 580w pv in fouani store website on the 12th of last month and I made payment for 5 pcs. The following day, I was called and told that the 580w was out of stock. There was no higher watt pv and my customer didn't want to go for a lower watt pv.
I called for a refund and I was told to go my bank and apply for charge back. I went and applied and my bank later told me the money is already in the fouani store account that there's nothing the bank can do.
I called fouani customer service and I was told to wait. They later called me that the money was refunded to my account on Monday this week. I checked my app and I didn't see it. I will still go back to my bank and print account statement.
I will NEVER EVER buy anything from fouani store again. The stress of getting a refund is unbearable

Mine is similar to this with small difference.

Deye SE-G5 1 PRO 5.12KWH 48V

jonescosmos:
Inside Deye SE-G5.1 PRO-B 5.12KW 48V

Always detailed and on point.

Kudos.

jonescosmos:
Sorry for this terrible experience bro.

You need to tweak up your installation if you must continue to use Solar and Inverter while living in that building.

1. You need a rain sensor switch. Most rain-sensing devices work by accumulating a set amount of rainfall before a switch is activated that interrupts the circuit from the controller and shuts off the system.

2. You need a contactor style of ATS that disconnects your Grid Input once Grid is Off which is most likely to happen once it starts to rain. Also in the same box, you will integrate a PV Rapid Shutdown Contactor that will be connected to the Rain Sensor. Once the sensor gives the command, these contactors will shut off all inputs to your Inverter.

3. You need to drive a 6ft or 8ft earth rod into the ground and use it as your earth if the building does not belong to you.

4. You need the appropriate SPDs, AC & DC RCBO MCBs for your PV, Inverter and Home loads. By appropriate I mean the amperage ratings must be appropriate to you devices. Eg. Don't go putting a 63A MCB between grid and your Inverter when your Inverter Input Current is rated 25A Max.

5. You need an experienced electrical personnel to do this connections. No need to go this route if you will not use a qualified technician to install them.

Though this might sound expensive, It's better than replacing or repairing your Inverter every rainy season. It's a must in Renewable Energy if you must use it.

50A

mank1234:


What was the maximum discharge current value in the inverter before?

Thank you for your response.

The max charge/discharge current has always been on 0.5C since installation and the only thing that needs surge startup is the fridge as all my ACs are inverter AC. I'll adjust the the max discharge current to 115A and see how it goes.

mank1234:


For number 3, go to settings, then battery, scroll to the second page, it has figures for maximum charge current and maximum discharge current.

Maximum charge current - set to anything you want. This is not important since your panel is not more than 6500w.
Maximum discharge current, leave it at 115A to accommodate startup surge of some appliances. If you set a lower limit, DC overcurrent will be reported when you try to draw more than that value from battery. But be sure that your total connected load is not more than 5kw.

If the above was already correct, (ie discharge current 115A limit) then the issue is number 1 as earlier stated.

Kindly explain more of the No 3 please.

As for No 2, the total installed panels are not up to 6,000w.

The installer will be coming over the weekend to carryout a check to determine if there's a short circuit to frame or anything like that.

mank1234:


It's the same error. The number may be different in different model. And the cause is what I told you before. 1) Your panel is exceeding 17A Isc during favourable condition and your controller is thus unable to clip the Imp to 13A.
Or
2) Total wattage at that point is in excess of 6500W and the unit is unable to handle the excess.
Or
3) Your discharge/charge current limit is too low relative to load and panel size.

5x 570w Longi panels and 5x 625w Jinko panels.

swagifted:
impressive...how much panels do you have on it?

No but I just discovered that it threw this error code instead F14 DC_OverCurr_Fault.

jonescosmos:
Did your Inverter throw this F20 Tz_Dc_OverCurr_Fault Error Code?

Check from device info page and see.

On average over 20kwh on a sunny day and about 15kwh on a cloudy/rainy day.

swagifted:
how many kwh do you generate in a day.?

Yes mine is the SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU model with 2 MPPTs.

The Longi string is connected to MPPT 1 while the Jinko string is connected to the MPPT 2.

Will have the installer check for leakage to the frame when he's back.

jonescosmos:
Please post the side sticker of your Inverter, or send the specific datasheet or model of your inverter.

From the pictures you attached your model is either SUN-3.6KSG03LP1-EU, SUN-5KSG03LP1-EU or SUN-6KSG03LP1-EU

If yes, then bolded is a confirmation that your inverter has just 2 MPPT with 1 string each and both trackers should be independent with a Max ISc of 17A each.

I hope one of your PVs is not shorted or leaking power to the frame.

Please take a look at the attached Datasheet.

The MC4s are crimped and connected correctly.

I did some testing and discovered that only the negative of the 2 MPPTs are connected in parallel, while the positives are independent of each other.

I'll have to disconnect one of the panels pending when I resolve the issue.

jonescosmos:
Then it's possible that your MC4 connectors crimping is wrong. Before looking inside the inverter,
Make sure that the Negative Cable coming from your PV (after leaving your breakers and spd box, if any) is crimped with a Negative MC4 connector which will plug in to the Positive MC4 connector (PV-) on the body of your Inverter like wise the Positive PV Cable is crimped with a Positive MC4 connector that will then plug into the Negative MC4 connector (PV+) on the body of your Inverter.

Everything should work well after making this correction.

I believe something is wrong then.

I'll do an indepth diagnostic on Wednesday and update you on my findings.

Thank you so much for all the responses so far.

jonescosmos:
Take a look at my Voltages on both Inverters this morning as promised.
2x 8KW According to the MPPTs and their Strings as I outlined earlier.

Exactly.

@Jonescosmos please keep the detailed explanations coming.

mctfopt:


I like his replies, I like detailed replies. Leaves no room for doubts.

Thank you Boss for this detailed explanation, I'll open the connection panel and check the connections inside as my came with the MC4 connectors, so I'll confirm how the MC4s are connected inside.

Will update you with my findings.

jonescosmos:
I have never had this kind of issues bro.
Please note that the MPPTs are not connected in series, rather they are connected in parallel with some internal diodes that prevents each string from back feeding to the other.

I have 4 Strings so far are as follows:

LATEST DEYE 8KW + 8KW:
INVERTER 1 MPPT 1:
STRING 1: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
STRING 2: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
INVERTER 2 MPPT 2:
STRING 1: 8X625W JINKO SOLAR PANELS (STC 55.70V V x 8 = 445.6V)(NOTC 42.61V V x8 = 340.88V)
STRING 2: 10X540W FELICITY SOLAR PANELS (STC 49.55 V x 10 = 495.5V)(NOTC 42.24 V x10 = 422.4V)

PREVIOUS DEYE 8KW:
MPPT 1:
STRING 1: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
STRING 2: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
MPPT 2:
STRING 1: 8X625W JINKO SOLAR PANELS (STC 55.70V V x 8 = 445.6V)(NOTC 42.61V V x8 = 340.88V)
STRING 2: 10X540W FELICITY SOLAR PANELS (STC 49.55 V x 10 = 495.5V)(NOTC 42.24 V x10 = 422.4V)

PREVIOUS DEYE 16kw:
MPPT 1:
STRING 1: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
STRING 2: 8X600W CANADIAN SOLAR PANELS (STC 41.3 V x 8 = 330.4V)(NOTC 34.9 V x8 = 279.2V)
MPPT 2:
STRING 1: 8X625W JINKO SOLAR PANELS (STC 55.70V V x 8 = 445.6V)(NOTC 42.61V V x8 = 340.88V)
MPPT 3:
STRING 2: 10X540W FELICITY SOLAR PANELS (STC 49.55 V x 10 = 495.5V)(NOTC 42.24 V x10 = 422.4V)

My systems worked flawlessly on Deye 16KW, Deye 8KW, and Parallel Deye 8KW + 8KW as well as every other installations I have done, even non Deye Inverters.
I will post you a picture of my Voltages tomorrow afternoon.

I still believe you should investigate further as there might be a problem with your Panel Strings or your connection on the terminals inside the Inverter. I have seen cases were people misinterpreted the terminals. Please take a good look at the attached pictures.
Note that Positive from String 1 and Positive from String 2 are next to each other (Parallel) and Negative From String 1 and Negative from String 2 are next to each other likewise (parallel).
The issue you experienced is only possible when you connect Positive and Negative of same string next to each other.


EACH MPPT AND STRING HAS IT'S OWN VOC, WHICH IS 500V
SO YOU HAVE:
16KW
MPPT1 STRING 1 VOC=500V
MPPT1 STRING 2 VOC=500V
MPPT2 STRING 1 VOC=500V
MPPT2 STRING 2 VOC=500V
MPPT3 STRING 1 VOC=500V
MPPT3 STRING 2 VOC=500V

8KW / 5KW
MPPT1 STRING 1 VOC=500V
MPPT1 STRING 2 VOC=500V
MPPT2 STRING 1 VOC=500V
MPPT2 STRING 2 VOC=500V

My Most recent project:
50KW
MPPT1 STRING 1 VOC=1000V
MPPT1 STRING 2 VOC=1000V
MPPT2 STRING 1 VOC=1000V
MPPT2 STRING 2 VOC=1000V
MPPT3 STRING 1 VOC=1000V
MPPT3 STRING 2 VOC=1000V
MPPT4 STRING 1 VOC=1000V
MPPT4 STRING 2 VOC=1000V

Since I installed both panels the inverter have never pulled more than 12A from the panels. The highest I've seen from the CC (MPPT 2) with the Jinkos is 12.5A and about 10A+ from MPPT 2 with the Longi panels, so it's not the current but voltage.

I'll open the inverter and check the connection inside.

mank1234:


This is invalid diagnosis.

All 5kw upwards have at least 2 independent trackers.

Both mppt are independent of each other. Check your error log. My suspicion is;
One of your string especially, the 625w may be exceeding 17A Isc during tracking. Very likely when sun comes up after cloud on a rainy day. I use same panel but luckily for me my roof is steep. My inverter clips the input current to 13A Imp. If it wasn't steep I'm sure I would be running into same issues.


The model you have has 13A as Mac input with caveat not to exceed 17A Isc. Your panel is exceeding that limit that's why it happens. I'll suggest you change panel to panels with lesser Isc else the inverter would spoil in the long run. Ideal for that model is Longi 450W with Isc less than 14A

With that number of panels he'll get to enjoy free shipping from Fouani which will make getting the Jinkos way cheaper for him.

moneyest:


Even with the annoying extra costs If you calm down and calculate you'd probably discover that the Canadian panels may still be cheaper than fouani's jinko

Update on my setup.

Sometime last month I connected all my AC to the smart load of my inverter, and noticed that the inverter was going off and on repeatedly for like 5x before stabilizing back on. This would happen severely in a day before the sun goes down as I discovered it only happens during the day.

As a result I reverted back to the previous connection and disabled the smart load thinking that was my issue, but it still persisted, so I did some reading online and concluded it might be a software bug.

I emailed Deye and requested for diagnosis and update which they did by pushing a remote firmware update to the inverter, yet the issue continued (in my mind I was like I spent huge money to buy a faulty batch of an expensive inverter). I sent an update email yesterday to Deye explaining that the issue is not yet resolved (yet to get an update though) after it happened for the 2nd time in the morning (around 11am). At this point I thought it wise to calm down and observe the inverter when next it happens rather than be angry, so I stayed put in front of the inverter and watched it.

Few minutes later it happened again this time around I was watching the screen and boom I caught it in the act and it happens to be that the voltages of 2 strings of panels attached to the 2 MPPTs of the inverter exceeded the max 500v of the inverter (string 1 5x Longi 570w panels was pumping 240v+ as at that time while string 2 5x Jinko 625w panels were pushing over 265v both exceeding the 500v max voltage).

As I saw that I quickly switched off string 1 breaker and the inverter stabilized instantly which suggests that the input of the 2 MPPTs are somehow connected in series or something like that as one of the MPPTs can take 500v alone but the 2 MPPTs combined together is still 500v.

No matter what you do, do not exceed the max voltage of your inverter and take not of the tolerance of the VOC of your panels when connecting your panels to your CC or inverter to avoid stories just in case your inverter or CC is not equipped to handle any form voltage spike above the rated max voltage of the inverter or CC.


@Jonescosmos the 500v is for the 2 MPPTs after all

You can get Longi panels from Solarco in Abuja.

compunigeria:



Please are there ways of knowing fake Canadian solar panels?

Installers/ end users around Kaduna axis, please i need recommendations on shops where one can get JINKO panels or original Canadian solar panels or JA solar. I have tried several shops but no luck.


Abeg Abuja and Kano people kindly recommend trusted sources too.
@jonescosmos and other big ogas.

Fouani before the increase to 184k

RickyM:

Where did you got 625W jinko panel at that rate?

Thank you boss.

I've been suffering myself since with solarman app.

jonescosmos:
Deye Cloud App

I totally understand you, when I upgraded my system in November last year I only had Inverter and battery which I installed in December and started using them.

I later discovered that I was burning my units charging the battery with grid, so I had channel all my funds to adding panels to the setup and finally became free.

jonescosmos:
Not a wise expenditure, you will spend more on the long run. When you install an inverter and battery, and light power goes of for 2 hours, traditionally you will switch over to inverter. Ok, you drain 5KWh from your battery before power is restored, your inverter will have to use your Units of 5KWh + Energy used in conversion and powering system components to dump back that 5KWh into the battery (a process we call recharging the battery) so you might end up using up to 7KWh energy to recharge your battery that you drained 5KWh from except you are not paying for the power supply you are getting.

So you see, you took less and paid more.

Solar is the way to go bro, If you ain't doing solar, don't waste your money. This is an advice you may not comprehend right away though.