mozee:
I bought tokunbo. I,don't think they sell the new inner cups.

Macmilla:
Hello my informed friends. A friend just installed a used transmission on a 4cyl 2001 accord but with issues. The car shifts smoothly like new when cold with no jerks at all. It starts misbehaving when warmed up. It will start with jerky shifting on gear 1-2 and eventually end up in limp mode with blinking D4. Codes p1753 and p0730 were pulled. Turning it off and on brings it out of limp mode but it goes back as soon as it wants to shift to 2.
Any advice on how to solve this issue? Is the transmission a bad one? Please help.

The transmission or gearbox is an innovation of engineering that is central to the smooth running of any car. The transmissions may vary from manual, semi-automatic to automatic transmission. Anyone who has had an experience with transmission problems will tell you that it's not cheap replacing or even repairing it. Thus, it's always better to take good care of the transmission, checking the oil, filters and getting them cleaned regularly. It also makes sense to get your car serviced especially if you have been using it quite frequently or after a long trip. There are a lot of things your car will 'tell' you if you are willing to listen and observe. Most of the problems in cars can be felt in the way they drive during daily use.

Signs of Transmission Problems
Here are some of the signs you should be looking for:
A delay of more than a second in shifting from the neutral to drive or reverse gear could mean that there is a problem with the transmission. If on changing from a neutral or park position to the drive or reverse gear, the car does not immediately catch the gear and move forward or backward, it indicates a problem.
If you change gears and you hear a sudden clunk, sudden jolt or shudder, then the shifting is not smooth and there could be a problem with the gearbox.
If the engine rpm keeps increasing but there is no increase in the speed, another indicator you should look for.
Another transmission slipping sign is oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF) leakage. This could damage the transmission.
If your car has suddenly started sounding noisy, you should check the gearbox.
Most automatic transmission systems nowadays, have a check engine light or an OD light, which flashes if there is a problem with the engine. You will need a code reader to diagnose the problem by reading the code.
When Cold
If your transmission slips only when it's cold, then there could be three possible reasons. The first possible reason of the transmission slipping when cold is that, your engine is low on transmission fluid and could use some more. The reason it works fine once it's warmed up, is because the oil expands with heat. The second reason could be that the fluid has become old and denatured, and needs to be changed. Remember to use only the genuine transmission fluid when you replace it. The third reason could be that the oil has become dirty or contaminated, which needs to be changed. If it's dirty, then you could also check your filter and change if needed. You could go for a transmission flush, but make sure you have all the details before you do that.

When Hot
Sometimes the transmission may work fine when cold, but you might notice it slipping when hot. This means that after you have been driving for sometime the gears may not change smoothly. A transmission that slips when hot, could mean that the transmission fluid may be less or could have worn down and needs to be changed. Also check your filter and see if it needs to be replaced. There could also be a problem with the wiring and ignition.

Is It Slipping Out of Gear?
If your car transmission is slipping out of gear, and you have checked the fluid levels and filters, and they all seem fine, then your gearbox might need replacing or extensive repair might be needed.

If your car is showing any of the above transmission trouble signs, then you should get your car serviced. Make sure you always check the fluid levels in your car and look for signs of dirt, and if your filters would need to be replaced. A regular inspection done once in a while, will always help keep you safe from any major damage to your car, and your wallet.

Owholomo:
Gudmorning nairalanders, plz can someone help me get the radio code for a 2003 honda accord,E.O.D?? My no is 07060931282. Plz Holla me if u can help.Thank you. J

Macmilla:
Hello my informed friends. A friend just installed a used transmission on a 4cyl 2001 accord but with issues. The car shifts smoothly like new when cold with no jerks at all. It starts misbehaving when warmed up. It will start with jerky shifting on gear 1-2 and eventually end up in limp mode with blinking D4. Codes p1753 and p0730 were pulled. Turning it off and on brings it out of limp mode but it goes back as soon as it wants to shift to 2.
Any advice on how to solve this issue? Is the transmission a bad one? Please help.

dpresido:
Good Evening Nairalanders. I drive a Honda Baby boy. After driving about 300km today'(to and from) I observed an amber light on the left side displaying "CHECK'...This is different from 'Maintenance Rqd' that am used to.The symbol with the 'Check' was like engine to me.Please has anyone had this challenge before and way out? I want to have an idea about it before I go to Mechanic so as not take advantage of me in exorbitant charges. Though I called my Mechanic who said I could still drive it for the remaining part of the journey then will see him by monday. I drove additional 100km thereafter. Please help with useful tips.

shamecurls:

It simply means that you need to get the car scanned so as to know where the fault is coming from. It urgently needs attention which you must start attend to by carrying out a thorough scan on the vehicle.

shamecurls:

It simply means that you need to get the car scanned so as to know where the fault is coming from. It urgently needs attention which you must start attend to by carrying out a thorough scan on the vehicle.

dpresido:
Good Evening Nairalanders. I drive a Honda Baby boy. After driving about 300km today'(to and from) I observed an amber light on the left side displaying "CHECK'...This is different from 'Maintenance Rqd' that am used to.The symbol with the 'Check' was like engine to me.Please has anyone had this challenge before and way out? I want to have an idea about it before I go to Mechanic so as not take advantage of me in exorbitant charges. Though I called my Mechanic who said I could still drive it for the remaining part of the journey then will see him by monday. I drove additional 100km thereafter. Please help with useful tips.

lomomike:

Get an OBD ii scanner and scan the car, it will bring up a code. Copy the code somewhere, erase the codes from the car using the OBD ii scanner, drive for a while, if the light comes up again, scan and note the code. Then post the code here.

shamecurls:
Hello Experts,

I just got a Tokunbo ride and the Engine and AC fans run directly, Please how do i know if the thermostat is still in position and not faulty without opening the casing? Any disadvantage if the fans re running directly?

lomomike:

Get an OBD ii scanner and scan the car, it will bring up a code. Copy the code somewhere, erase the codes from the car using the OBD ii scanner, drive for a while, if the light comes up again, scan and note the code. Then post the code here.

dpresido:


Thanks Lomomike. I had the battery removed and refixed then the note went away. I understand this is a temporary measure. I came to meet my friend who has the scanner. After scanning it didn't show any code, all read just ok ok, code_nil. Could this be because it had erased? Also he has similar challenge. After clearing it it still comes eup with these codes P0420 and P0430. Please assist. Thanks

lomomike:

Drive that car for a while before you can assume. Don't just scan immediately after battery removal.

dpresido:

Thanks. What about the codes on my friends own? What could those mean sir?

bashexyz:
Hello all,

My car bounces like the tyres are shaking when driving at high speed. And when driving at low speed it doesnt. My mechanic told me to change the tyres which i did.. But still didnt solve the problem. Now hes telling me to change tie rod and CUP. tie rod 8k CUP 8k.

I would like your recommendations and suggestion..

Asides the bouncing the car is fine. with no check engine light or fault.

lomomike:


1.There should be a considerable difference in temperature when you touch the hoses which acts as coolant exit hose and coolant entry hose after a while of driving.
2. Your fan should kick on and off intermittently. 3. Your coolant temperature gauge should gain a rise in level after a while driving. However, it should NOT rise to the RED mark/zone.
4. After all is said in 1,2 and 3, your car shouldn't experience overheating.


Bypassing your radiator fan to work continuously is a very bad practice. Anyone who attempt that on your car pls shoot his/her hands.

The manufacturer of your car intentionally configured the radiator fan to work intermittently so as to ensure the temperature of the engine rises to a defined range at which the engine operates at its MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY and EFFECTIVENESS which inturn brings about lower fuel consumption, less stress which inturn give greater LONGIVETY of ENGINE.

Bypassing the radiator fan defeats the purpose It makes the engine operate at a cooler temperature which stresses the engine and causes premature wear and slow death of that engine. I don't wanna go into the details. Because I've spoken on this topic many times.

ifeanyi83:


I see this in almost every car I have come accross and what I hear is "our weather doesn't support that system".

lomomike:

Go thru this. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
And this: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0430

ZIMDRILL:


is this on a smooth road or rough road

lomomike:


1.There should be a considerable difference in temperature when you touch the hoses which acts as coolant exit hose and coolant entry hose after a while of driving.
2. Your fan should kick on and off intermittently. 3. Your coolant temperature gauge should gain a rise in level after a while driving. However, it should NOT rise to the RED mark/zone.
4. After all is said in 1,2 and 3, your car shouldn't experience overheating.


Bypassing your radiator fan to work continuously is a very bad practice. Anyone who attempt that on your car pls shoot his/her hands.

The manufacturer of your car intentionally configured the radiator fan to work intermittently so as to ensure the temperature of the engine rises to a defined range at which the engine operates at its MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY and EFFECTIVENESS which inturn brings about lower fuel consumption, less stress which inturn give greater LONGIVETY of ENGINE.

Bypassing the radiator fan defeats the purpose It makes the engine operate at a cooler temperature which stresses the engine and causes premature wear and slow death of that engine. I don't wanna go into the details. Because I've spoken on this topic many times.

Macmilla:
Hello my informed friends. A friend just installed a used transmission on a 4cyl 2001 accord but with issues. The car shifts smoothly like new when cold with no jerks at all. It starts misbehaving when warmed up. It will start with jerky shifting on gear 1-2 and eventually end up in limp mode with blinking D4. Codes p1753 and p0730 were pulled. Turning it off and on brings it out of limp mode but it goes back as soon as it wants to shift to 2.
Any advice on how to solve this issue? Is the transmission a bad one? Please help.

austin4real:
Hi nlanders. I've got a manual transmission 2006 honda Eod, the issue with it is dat when the engine is quite hot and has been running for a while, the vehicle won't move past 20kmph, no matter how much I depress the pedal... It won't rev, however when I depress the clutch, the rev would start working again. (Point of it all is that it doesn't move when on gear) what can I do. And also there is this rubber sound dat the vehicle makes when it enters into a bump or sumfin, wat could be the problem..