kaecy5:


More Tips - when u hear occasional right front side noise don't be too in a hurry to change shocks, ball joint, combination bushing. most times it is your right Engine seating that is worn and u wont know cos there is a rubber cover over it. the simple way to check is shake you engine if it moves then it is engine seating. cos a good engine seating would not allow your engine rock when u shake it.

luvinhubby:
Influx of China cloned fake ATF-DW1 into the market.

Pix 1 of cloned DW1, darker label background

tomaagy:


I think I need to check this, I feel some vibe on my right front tire bothering me, mechanic has checked n rechecked the shocks.. BTW any gud mech for suspension in lagos? Honda baby boy 2002

Baylam:
Please help, my Honda Accord 07 fan will not work until ac is on..please help help

nas00:



Any corresponding rise on your temperature gauge up to half mark or beyond, when idling?

Baylam:
No sir, the temp gauge is always below the half mark but what I observed is that when I put on the AC the temp mark drop down like it's coming to zero and that make the car consume more fuel

Areolad:
How save is the milemaster oil for Honda engine

luvinhubby:


Brake calipers and/or damper rubber.

You for add the motor year.

Baylam:
No sir, the temp gauge is always below the half mark but what I observed is that when I put on the AC the temp mark drop down like it's coming to zero and that make the car consume more fuel

nas00:



Okay Sir.

I'm a bit surprised your temperature begins to approach the zero mark on ONE fan, and with greater load on the engine.

Under normal circumstances, your temperature gauge pointer should be around the same point (usu a bit closer to half mark than zero) whether your a/c is working or not. This is because the thermostat constantly kicks the fan on and off to maintain a constant engine operating temperature. One of your two fans is linked to the a/c (right/ passenger side fan).

Since you say your temperature gauge is always below half mark, in spite of a fan 'not working', I would suggest you take the car for a test drive WITHOUT using the a/c. Keep an eye on the temp gauge all along. If it rises beyond half mark, it's either due to failed cooling fan OR low coolant.

To determine which one of the two is the problem, open your car hood and let the car continue to idle if the temperature rises all the way to half mark without the fan kicking on, the fan isn't working. If fan kicks on, then your coolant level is low.

Reasons why fan may fail:

1) Removed thermostat with subsequent incorrect connection. Also, if the radiator was recently removed, there's a plug to the thermostat, which could have been completely forgotten and left disconnected

2) Burnt relay: Have relay controlling fans checked



Meanwhile, note that:

-A lower than normal/ recommended engine temperature will burn more fuel

-A/C use will burn more fuel, but certainly not at an alarming rate EXCEPT the a/c thermostat is removed or engine bad ab-initio.


Btw, was ur radiator removed recently?

Baylam:
Wow thanks so much for the educative response sir, My God will enlarge your coast.. my radiator was removed recently...

I have a local rewire kazeem checked it today, He remove a switch somewhere around the engine and the fan rotate , when he plug the switch back the fan stop working, he's conclusion was that I should change the switch ... Tho I don't trust him so I think[b] I'm getting the car scan[/b] to know what exactly is wrong ... PS, the car is really consuming fuel ...

Thanks so much once again, may God continue to bless you

GAZZUZZ:

Your thermostat has been removed. Re-install it.

Baylam:
Wow thanks so much for the educative response sir, My God will enlarge your coast.. my radiator was removed recently...

I have a local rewire kazeem checked it today, He remove a switch somewhere around the engine and the fan rotate , when he plug the switch back the fan stop working, he's conclusion was that I should change the switch ... Tho I don't trust him so I think I'm getting the car scan to know what exactly is wrong ... PS, the car is really consuming fuel ...

Thanks so much once again, may God continue to bless you

nas00:

Hehehehe!!
My Chief, I suspect that 'switch' is your THERMOSTAT.
When he removed it, the fan worked... Meaning he's removed the regulatory function of the thermostat. Your fans will now be working right from the moment you turn your ignition on. That's never good for your fuel economy!
Gazzuzz had pointed this out in his very first response and re-emphasized by quoting himself. He is probably right. Do as he advised.
Meanwhile: While a diagnostic scan may reveal other possible troubles with the car, i'm not sure it will show you anything concerning a removed thermostat. Could anyone in the house with broader scan-tool experience kindly comment on this too?
I hail.

equity2genesis:
Good day people; May God continue to bless you guys for the good work you are doing here.

Please I need your expertise advice. I recently got this Naija used 2004 EOD V4; while trying to check the gear oil level, my mech said its still okay after dipping the dip stick in and out, but a friend of mine later said the Mech checked it wrongly, he (my friend) then checked by putting the gear on NEUTRAL while the ENGINE STILL RUNNING; the result showed that the ATF is very low on the dip stick.

Am kind of confused which who is actually right. please enlighten me.

Cc : nas00 , GAZZUZZ , luvinhubby

GAZZUZZ:


dip stick has cold and hot readings, when engine is cold it is safe when stick level is on the low mark.

Engine should be running when checking transmission oil.

GAZZUZZ:


the switch is not a thermostat, but a device that dictates the operation of the fan based on temperature of coolant. It should be located lower left side of temperature. When vehicle is scanned it will throw a code coolant temp circuit2.

The thermostat I have been hammering about is the mechanical device thet regulates the flow of coolant from lowerside hose into engine. Currently his coolant is on free flow, add this to the fans being constant and you have a temp guage flat on C when driving.

nas00:



A million thanks for the update, Gazzuzz.

Never thought it could happen in practice that temperature gauge would remain flat on C in spite of engine work, the stock single cell radiators and all. Wow, that's sick!

Btw, I become paranoid whenever I hear any 'kazeem' use the word switch. It's my opinion that not everything they call 'switch' is actually a switch. Based on what i've observed, they often use the word as a vague description for specific car parts, the proper names of which may not even be in general use.

Cheers!

kareem257:
PLEASE HELP!!!
I have a 2000 Honda Civic. I have re-occurring problems with front wheels.
They make this un-usual squeaking noise after hitting pot-holes, driving on rough roads or entering water which continues throughout that day
The next morning, the noise disappears until after another 30 mins drive again.
My Kazeem had helped changed the ball joint but this issue wont just go away and he keeps assuring me that there is no problem and the legs wont pull off.

I am not confident driving this car.

Can you all please proffer solutions.

niyi2u:
Good Day,
House, Kindly help me on this issue that is driving me crazy.
I drive a 2002 Honda Accord V.Tech Engine.
My right wheel tire wobbles when I speed up to about 40 or 60. When I take off my feet from the pedal it stops wobbling. A number of times my mech
told me to change both up and down bolts and the arm. Whenever I do that I only notice the changes for about 2weeks and it wil become obvious again.
Changed the hub, did wheel balancing and aligement but same thing still keep occurring.
A mech complained that my right back tire was bad and its the one causing the front right wheel tire to wobble . My Vulganizer checked it and said the tire is not in a bad state to cause the front right wheel to wobble. I changed that tire and replaced it with my extra tire after changing the bolts again. After about 2weeks I started feeling the right front wheel wobbling again. All this has been going on for about 4 months now back and forth.
I am extremely disturbed now. Someone should kindly assist me on what can be happening.

CircleOfWilis:
Help me with this pls.. Peugeot 406..e10

kingreign:

Plug a lexia/pp2000 run a scan.

JayZ55:

Thanx God saved me, the fuel pump wires were apparently damaged by rats, reconnected them and walla! Car is running fine n am not driving thru water ever again!!

Malawian:

where can one fing this fuel pump wires? i have had this problem of my car jerking, one mechanic eventually figured it was fuel pump wire and fixed it. the car worked very fine for months until i took it for repairs in another mechanic [he changed the worn engine seatings] obviously he might have tempered with the fuel pump wires cos the jerking has returned.

so once again, where can one find this fuel pump wire and what does it look like. picture pls.

This one is easy nah, take it back to the first electrician

connkg:
Lemme make bold to ask:

Why do both fans run when Honda '02 V6 is started cold? Temperature rises to mid-way mark in about a minute or two. No by-pass relay to fan.

connkg:
Lemme make bold to ask:

Why do both fans run when Honda '02 V6 is started cold? Temperature rises to mid-way mark in about a minute or two. No by-pass relay to fan.