snakebeat:

Why reduce the amount of stress when u can buy an already made one without encountering any stress?

1) You don't know how it's structurally built.

2) You don't know if "things" have been buried underneath.

3) You may find it hard to find a design that tickles one's cockles.

erico2k2:

Is the area not habitable yet? my GP tank was always left on site, do what I did, Paint anything on it with a shiny yellow paint and keep the lid in your car so that the top is always open, it discourages thieves cos tank no lid is hard to sell, plus write a phone number or name on the body, always fill it up before you go home for the day
thank me later

We learn new things everyday.

" cos tank no lid is hard to sell"

Who would have thought?

@mufutau55,lawyer,
EgunMogaji

Fraud Alert here..

https://www.nairaland.com/3510671/cost-analysis-roofing-3-bedrooms/4

talk2eshin said akeensbussy Scam him by supplying bad Coconut tree for his Roofing Work.

money121:
@mufutau55,lawyer,
EgunMogaji

Fraud Alert here..

https://www.nairaland.com/3510671/cost-analysis-roofing-3-bedrooms/4

talk2eshin said akeensbussy Scam him by supplying bad Coconut tree for his Roofing Work.

/
Akeensbussy's response tire me.

Some people deserve to be shot.

\\

InvertedHammer:

/
Akeensbussy's response tire me.

Some people deserve to be shot.

\\

Brother same here.. We need to get rid of frauder on Nairaland..
Too bad..

The Respond weak me

InvertedHammer:

/
Akeensbussy's response tire me.

Some people deserve to be shot.

\\

I was thinking more like tarred and feathered.

The discourse about whether to mold blocks yourself on site or to buy already vibrated blocks from block sellers is an important decision. I tend to support the molding of blocks on site, but only if the following conditions are met;

1. You must have a large space in your compound, space that will be enough to leave the blocks where it is and not need in to repack the blocks. Relocating blocks is costly, time consuming and risky too. Blocks can break when being re parked and you end up losing on the broken blocks.

2. You must have a supervisor, permanently stationed on site, if you cannot be on site yourself. Expect to pay the supervisor and add the cost to the 'savings' you are going to make for molding blocks yourself.

3. Make sure your site is not where trespassers can march through. I have seen a friend lose money because as soon as they finished molding the blocks for the day, a herdsman drove over a hundred cows through the back of his site, trampling and destroying most of the 20 bags of cement they freshly made for the day. He nearly cried when he came back in the morning.

4. You must ensure the molders are imbibing good block molding practices, when molders are working for an inexperienced person, they tend to relax their skills and turn the cement less than needed, all to make them move faster and make more blocks/money. The down side of this is that the blocks will be of poor quality.

Finally my people, the fact that you molded your blocks on site does not mean you cannot lose money or quality of blocks made. A person that bought blocks can move faster and save time/space/money, if the conditions are right.

I now buy most of the blocks I use on different sites, except where there are no nearby block industries. I also have a list of good block makers in many cities where I work. But if my clients insist we must use blocks made on site, I usually ask them to produce the blocks ahead of time, then I can move in later and start the project.

Good morning to you all.

Yesterday Morning, I got a request from my oga here, Mr Kopell to help with information on a trusted Cable dealer in Ilorin, unfortunately I didn’t know any. The cables I had earlier supplied them were insufficient and they needed two coils urgently. I was consequently tasked with remotely helping to identify during buy. An interesting story unfolds in the course of doing that.

I am happy a known member of the property section experienced first-hand part of what the cable game is about. Mr Abunafiu (who was helping with the buying) like so many other unfortunate buyers (many electricians inclusive) was confident he had gotten the real deal until I told him to reassess. IT would be nice of you to share your cable buying experience with members on the forum Sir, people need to know what they’re confidently and unknowingly getting into.

I feel the need to put up this piece because it breaks my heart to see people every day spend their hard earned money buying the myriad of adulterated wiring products that have flooded, are flooding and will continue to flood our markets.
It is imperative that we continually create awareness and share information that is helpful to all.
some people end up with these fake cables in their quest for cheap prices… others out of innocence and misplaced trust in dubious sellers.

Having a big shop stacked with cables or being touted as a Major Cable dealer doesn’t necessarily imply that stock is genuine or that the cables are authentic. In some cases, if you’re lucky, they might be merciful enough to mix a few genuine coils and you end up with a combination of both.

The following is worthy of note about this case:

-the COLEMAN Brand name was clearly engraved on the insulation
-Labels were intact and looked authentic
-Nylon wrapping checked out
-Seller was supposedly a COLEMAN dealer, and repeatedly reaffirmed that the fake shyt he was selling to him was the real deal.

The attached pictures are images that were sent to me for confirmation while at the market.
They were presented to Mr Abunfiu as original. Cables like these are what is sold 80% of the time to unsuspecting buyers, and would pass as genuine.

allCopacetic:
Yesterday Morning, I got a request from my oga here, Mr Kopell to help with information on a trusted Cable dealer in Ilorin, unfortunately I didn’t know any. The cables I had earlier supplied them were insufficient and they needed two coils urgently. I was consequently tasked with remotely helping to identify during buy. An interesting story unfolds in the course of doing that.

I am happy a known member of the property section experienced first-hand part of what the cable game is about. Mr Abunafiu (who was helping with the buying) like so many other unfortunate buyers (many electricians inclusive) was confident he had gotten the real deal until I told him to reassess. IT would be nice of you to share your cable buying experience with members on the forum Sir, people need to know what they’re confidently and unknowingly getting into.

I feel the need to put up this piece because it breaks my heart to see people every day spend their hard earned money buying the myriad of adulterated wiring products that have flooded, are flooding and will continue to flood our markets.
It is imperative that we continually create awareness and share information that is helpful to all.
some people end up with these fake cables in their quest for cheap prices… others out of innocence and misplaced trust in dubious sellers.

Having a big shop stacked with cables or being touted as a Major Cable dealer doesn’t necessarily imply that stock is genuine or that the cables are authentic. In some cases, if you’re lucky, they might be merciful enough to mix a few genuine coils and you end up with a combination of both.

The following is worthy of note about this case:

-the COLEMAN Brand name was clearly engraved on the insulation
-Labels were intact and looked authentic
-Nylon wrapping checked out
-Seller was supposedly a COLEMAN dealer, and repeatedly reaffirmed that the fake shyt he was selling to him was the real deal.

The attached pictures are images that were sent to me for confirmation while at the market.
They were presented to Mr Abunfiu as original. Cables like these are what is sold 80% of the time to unsuspecting buyers, and would pass as genuine.

Hardly you can gey original cables in those area. Recently i travelled to Akure for a small work and we bought all the necessary materials from Lagos but we later discovered that the cables will not be enough. We move from every corner in Akure looking for original cable but couldn't find, I have to call somebody in Lagos to send it to me through local transport

spyder880:
The discourse about whether to mold blocks yourself on site or to buy already vibrated blocks from block sellers is an important decision. I tend to support the molding of blocks on site, but only if the following conditions are met;

1. You must have a large space in your compound, space that will be enough to leave the blocks where it is and not need in to repack the blocks. Relocating blocks is costly, time consuming and risky too. Blocks can break when being re parked and you end up losing on the broken blocks.

2. You must have a supervisor, permanently stationed on site, if you cannot be on site yourself. Expect to pay the supervisor and add the cost to the 'savings' you are going to make for molding blocks yourself.

3. Make sure your site is not where trespassers can march through. I have seen a friend lose money because as soon as they finished molding the blocks for the day, a herdsman drove over a hundred cows through the back of his site, trampling and destroying most of the 20 bags of cement they freshly made for the day. He nearly cried when he came back in the morning.

4. You must ensure the molders are imbibing good block molding practices, when molders are working for an inexperienced person, they tend to relax their skills and turn the cement less than needed, all to make them move faster and make more blocks/money. The down side of this is that the blocks will be of poor quality.

Finally my people, the fact that you molded your blocks on site does not mean you cannot lose money or quality of blocks made. A person that bought blocks can move faster and save time/space/money, if the conditions are right.

I now buy most of the blocks I use on different sites, except where there are no nearby block industries. I also have a list of good block makers in many cities where I work. But if my clients insist we must use blocks made on site, I usually ask them to produce the blocks ahead of time, then I can move in later and start the project.

Good morning to you all.

Oga e Pls can u expantiate on d block moulding practises so I can learn thank u sir.

bereiweris:
Oga e Pls can u expantiate on d block moulding practises so I can learn thank u sir.

Thank you, good block making practices when you are molding on site should include;

1. Clearing the area you want to pack blocks of too much debris, grass and other particles which can cause the blocks to be unbalanced and therefore crack even when they are yet to dry.

2. Buying and using good quality sand, stone dust or the mixture that will ensure you get a strong block, the cement chosen plays a good part too, not all cements are good for block making. Watch your mix ratio if you are mixing stone dust with sharp sand.

3. You must mix, mix, mix and mix again before molding. The more you mix the sand and or stone dust and cement to water, it makes the bonding better, which gives you stronger blocks.

4. The removal of the mold is usually where the mistake is made and blocks crack, molders should be gentle, very slow to remove the mold, if not the blocks will have cracks.

5. Blocks should be protected from rain, flooding and animals or even humans who may trample on them. Keep a nylon sheet handy in case it rains, also divert flood water away from blocks when they have not dried.

6. Water your blocks twice daily after they have become strong, keep watering the blocks till another 4 days.

7. Be careful with repacking the blocks, you may lose blocks if you don't stack them to be well balanced.

Happy weekend to you all.

earthrealm:


nope hvnt done the borehole yet.
intend doing so as soon as i have a clearer picture of what i intend to do..
sinking borehole would involve hiring gen, buying geepee tank, pulling the sumo and going home with it at the end of the days work etc, and i have split the ops into 3 stages [foundation-decking-roofing] to last me 3 years...am wondering if the borehole wud survive these frequent sump retrievals and period of no sumo at at all

. Since you want to use 3 years to erect your structure I reckon you go for moulding the blocks yourself and go through the so called stress. It will save you much on the long run.

InvertedHammer:


We learn new things everyday.

" cos tank no lid is hard to sell"

Who would have thought?

yeso, as the birds learnt how to fly without perching so the hunter learnt how to shoot better without missing

Hi Guys so I created a thread dedicated to jv projects and advise ,
Your wisdom is needed.

https://www.nairaland.com/3757449/need-practical-advise-starting-jv
Thank you

InvertedHammer:

/
35 blocks/bag x 200 bags = 7000 blocks.

Under specific instructions, they mould 40 blocks per bag. That is 175 bags to get 7000 blocks.

Multiply N2700 by 25 missing bags = N67,000.

Your project manager will have a picture on facebook soon with babes and a table full of drinks and goathead peppersoup with the caption "Life is good".
\

The bold in your post cracked my ribs

topsy23:


Hardly you can gey original cables in those area. Recently i travelled to Akure for a small work and we bought all the necessary materials from Lagos but we later discovered that the cables will not be enough. We move from every corner in Akure looking for original cable but couldn't find, I have to call somebody in Lagos to send it to me through local transport

Very Sad.

When you have both the capacity and desire to buy good things​ but still can not acquire them with ease, then the situation has become critical.

A few of them have a little of these cables, they keep and use as camouflage (and show u as sample). or for sale at very high prices to people they find out they cannot sell the adulterated to.

In the case above It wasn't until I spoke to the seller on the phone that he finally sold them what I hope was the real thing. he initially stuck to his claim of the fake being original but later reverted whn he saw he wasn't​ talking to some JJC) ,

Oga that one na "original" too, but this one is the "Main original"....LOL . Smh

Nawa o

Surely these manufacturers can do something about this, every cable can have a batch number, put this in a database batch number/manufacture date. If you want to buy a cable, just go onto the website enter the batch number and the details come up, if nothing comes up, then you know its fake.

I mean buyers should be careful with fake, but talk of manufacturers helping their customers ensure they buy the real thing, this is one sure way.

allCopacetic:
Yesterday Morning, I got a request from my oga here, Mr Kopell to help with information on a trusted Cable dealer in Ilorin, unfortunately I didn’t know any. The cables I had earlier supplied them were insufficient and they needed two coils urgently. I was consequently tasked with remotely helping to identify during buy. An interesting story unfolds in the course of doing that.

I am happy a known member of the property section experienced first-hand part of what the cable game is about. Mr Abunafiu (who was helping with the buying) like so many other unfortunate buyers (many electricians inclusive) was confident he had gotten the real deal until I told him to reassess. IT would be nice of you to share your cable buying experience with members on the forum Sir, people need to know what they’re confidently and unknowingly getting into.

I feel the need to put up this piece because it breaks my heart to see people every day spend their hard earned money buying the myriad of adulterated wiring products that have flooded, are flooding and will continue to flood our markets.
It is imperative that we continually create awareness and share information that is helpful to all.
some people end up with these fake cables in their quest for cheap prices… others out of innocence and misplaced trust in dubious sellers.

Having a big shop stacked with cables or being touted as a Major Cable dealer doesn’t necessarily imply that stock is genuine or that the cables are authentic. In some cases, if you’re lucky, they might be merciful enough to mix a few genuine coils and you end up with a combination of both.

The following is worthy of note about this case:

-the COLEMAN Brand name was clearly engraved on the insulation
-Labels were intact and looked authentic
-Nylon wrapping checked out
-Seller was supposedly a COLEMAN dealer, and repeatedly reaffirmed that the fake shyt he was selling to him was the real deal.

The attached pictures are images that were sent to me for confirmation while at the market.
They were presented to Mr Abunfiu as original. Cables like these are what is sold 80% of the time to unsuspecting buyers, and would pass as genuine.

hello everyone, what's your take on doing German floor on 3bedrooms of two flats and the builder is requesting for 60bags of cement. from ur previous building experience, do you think it's too much

igwedehxy:
hello everyone, what's your take on doing German floor on 3bedrooms of two flats and the builder is requesting for 60bags of cement. from ur previous building experience, do you think it's too much

Are you going to be onsite during the process?

allCopacetic:
Yesterday Morning, I got a request from my oga here, Mr Kopell to help with information on a trusted Cable dealer in Ilorin, unfortunately I didn’t know any. The cables I had earlier supplied them were insufficient and they needed two coils urgently. I was consequently tasked with remotely helping to identify during buy. An interesting story unfolds in the course of doing that.

I am happy a known member of the property section experienced first-hand part of what the cable game is about. Mr Abunafiu (who was helping with the buying) like so many other unfortunate buyers (many electricians inclusive) was confident he had gotten the real deal until I told him to reassess. IT would be nice of you to share your cable buying experience with members on the forum Sir, people need to know what they’re confidently and unknowingly getting into.

I feel the need to put up this piece because it breaks my heart to see people every day spend their hard earned money buying the myriad of adulterated wiring products that have flooded, are flooding and will continue to flood our markets.
It is imperative that we continually create awareness and share information that is helpful to all.
some people end up with these fake cables in their quest for cheap prices… others out of innocence and misplaced trust in dubious sellers.

Having a big shop stacked with cables or being touted as a Major Cable dealer doesn’t necessarily imply that stock is genuine or that the cables are authentic. In some cases, if you’re lucky, they might be merciful enough to mix a few genuine coils and you end up with a combination of both.

The following is worthy of note about this case:

-the COLEMAN Brand name was clearly engraved on the insulation
-Labels were intact and looked authentic
-Nylon wrapping checked out
-Seller was supposedly a COLEMAN dealer, and repeatedly reaffirmed that the fake shyt he was selling to him was the real deal.

The attached pictures are images that were sent to me for confirmation while at the market.
They were presented to Mr Abunfiu as original. Cables like these are what is sold 80% of the time to unsuspecting buyers, and would pass as genuine.

lol look at the thickness.. definitely fake. its better to buy from acredited seller or from factory directly,

Meanwhile thanks for the supply client love the fence lights

@allCopacetic

another thing i notice is affordability.. went to asaba and inquire about coleman or kablemetal they said dont sell them here cause of cost.. they have different brand thats cheaper..

twinskenny:
@allCopacetic

another thing i notice is affordability.. went to asaba and inquire about coleman or kablemetal they said dont sell them here cause of cost.. they have different brand thats cheaper..

Cultix cable is available in those areas. Cultix cable is one of the best cable also

twinskenny:
@allCopacetic

another thing i notice is affordability.. went to asaba and inquire about coleman or kablemetal they said dont sell them here cause of cost.. they have different brand thats cheaper..

affordability isn't the problem, Profitability is...
brands like CUTIX are widely used in the East, yet it's one of the most expensive.
genuine cables aren't good business.. profit wise.,
Because of the "seemingly" high cost, the profit margin hs to stay low for people to afford it. and that greatly limits your room for a big profit.
you can sell foreign cables with as much as 15% - 25% , but you will be "hard-pressed" to make up to 7% on most Nigerian Cables as a distributor, if you want to stay competitive.
so you can guess what the more popular choice will be

twinskenny:


lol look at the thickness.. definitely fake. its better to buy from acredited seller or from factory directly,

Meanwhile thanks for the supply client love the fence lights

I'm glad,
thanks

twinskenny:


lol look at the thickness.. definitely fake. its better to buy from acredited seller or from factory directly,

Meanwhile thanks for the supply client love the fence lights

Is it the thickness of the copper, the rubber insulation or both?

Thanks.

mavverick:
Nawa o

Surely these manufacturers can do something about this, every cable can have a batch number, put this in a database batch number/manufacture date. If you want to buy a cable, just go onto the website enter the batch number and the details come up, if nothing comes up, then you know its fake.

I mean buyers should be careful with fake, but talk of manufacturers helping their customers ensure they buy the real thing, this is one sure way.

you make a very solid point there.

I believe it is safe to say manufacturers are not proactive enough,...probably because Nigeria is a very huge market and they're still feeding fat, & raking in enough Naira to stay profitable despite the adulteration.
So they can still afford to be complacent .

introducing batch numbers might not completely stop the proliferation of fake cables but that kind of initiative will go a very long way. it might however have limitation in cases where we supply hundreds of coils,

money121:
@mufutau55,lawyer,
EgunMogaji

Fraud Alert here..

https://www.nairaland.com/3510671/cost-analysis-roofing-3-bedrooms/4

talk2eshin said akeensbussy Scam him by supplying bad Coconut tree for his Roofing Work.

Igi agbon that really cracked me up, wonders will never end and the guys response was disgusting and unbelievable. Instead of him to apologise and refund for the 40nos that was bad without removing it from site he was giving a stupid excuse and indicting himself. All ur won want to build please always do your due diligence for anybody working for you. All the best

spyder880:
The discourse about whether to mold blocks yourself on site or to buy already vibrated blocks from block sellers is an important decision. I tend to support the molding of blocks on site, but only if the following conditions are met;

1. You must have a large space in your compound, space that will be enough to leave the blocks where it is and not need in to repack the blocks. Relocating blocks is costly, time consuming and risky too. Blocks can break when being re parked and you end up losing on the broken blocks.

2. You must have a supervisor, permanently stationed on site, if you cannot be on site yourself. Expect to pay the supervisor and add the cost to the 'savings' you are going to make for molding blocks yourself.

3. Make sure your site is not where trespassers can march through. I have seen a friend lose money because as soon as they finished molding the blocks for the day, a herdsman drove over a hundred cows through the back of his site, trampling and destroying most of the 20 bags of cement they freshly made for the day. He nearly cried when he came back in the morning.

4. You must ensure the molders are imbibing good block molding practices, when molders are working for an inexperienced person, they tend to relax their skills and turn the cement less than needed, all to make them move faster and make more blocks/money. The down side of this is that the blocks will be of poor quality.

Finally my people, the fact that you molded your blocks on site does not mean you cannot lose money or quality of blocks made. A person that bought blocks can move faster and save time/space/money, if the conditions are right.

I now buy most of the blocks I use on different sites, except where there are no nearby block industries. I also have a list of good block makers in many cities where I work. But if my clients insist we must use blocks made on site, I usually ask them to produce the blocks ahead of time, then I can move in later and start the project.

Good morning to you all.

Well said I don't advice anybody to mould block it hold more disadvantage than advantage. Except you be okay egunmogaji[color=#000099][/color]

EgunMogaji:


Is it the thickness of the copper, the rubber insulation or both?

Thanks.

the rubber insulation

nextstep:




I also agree that you want your house earthing to be separated from your lightning arrestor. The ground pit/plate for the arrestor is supposed to be placed at least 4 feet away from your building so that in the event of a strike you don't have your foundation and columns (reinforced with iron, and coupled with the wet ground that tends to be coincident with rain and lightning), suddenly dissipating thousands of volts (and who knows how they might touch the iron bars of staircase). I think the worst thing you can do is to tie your electrical systems to the arrestor systems, which defeats the main purpose of having a direct path for lightning away from your building.

I think anyone who's telling you it's OK to connect the two systems has been enjoying the luxury of luck. Lightening jumped through miles of air to get to your house; don't provide a path for it through your electrical system. There's no guarantee that your electrical system is a higher resistance than the ground pit (at some moment in time).

please about the lightning arrestor, is there any need to insult it shop(s)? I am on my first ever building project which happens to be a shop (4) and currently at the roofing level.

P.S
I am the project supervisor. Just finished service (NYSC), hence need to conserve fund as I am currently running short of it

igwedehxy:
hello everyone, what's your take on doing German floor on 3bedrooms of two flats and the builder is requesting for 60bags of cement. from ur previous building experience, do you think it's too much

What is the specified thickness of the slab if it's 150mm then it's not too. Much depending on the area but for you to be sure u need to be there. Another problem with being present is the engineer might increase the mix ratio to something higher and you might end up buying more cement. Ask him all these questions before hand to ensure that when you are there they won't change anything all the best bro.