₦airaland Forum

Jazzlite:
Where can I get the right oil? At okitipupa? Apart from the normal Mobil one or total quartz 9000?

Order from Lagos or Abuja

https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil/1#66663227

Jazzlite:
Over 200k. Parked for 7 years. Reactivated recently. After flush refilled with cheap total 20w50 for another flush after which I intend to switch to recommended oil grade.

Borrowed, words not mine:

High Mileage doesn't dictate the condition of the engine- it could be in the exact same condition it was at 50k miles. If you want to see if your engine has "special needs", then pick an oil with good UOA results, use it, and then get your own UOA done to compare. If it is substantially worse off, then you might actually need to alter which oil you use based on whatever engine problems you are having (which wouldn't necessarily be a result of your mileage). If you aren't having any engine issues, then any of the oils with good UOA results will be a good choice for you.

This is the scientific and not pedestrian approach to this issue.

Engine Oil Capacity: 8.5L

Oil specification: 0w40 or 5w40 although some 0w30 or 5w30 oils maybe substituted for fuel economy reasons such as Castrol Edge 0w30 https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?data=54abfb3712d20bc79027729f2f153fc0

Ideal oil must meet MB229.5 specs.

Ideal oil must be synthetic.

If using recommended oils, then service interval is 25,000 kilometres or 1 year.

I recommend that you switch immediately to factory recommendation, ignore the 5,000 mile baseline on the wrong oil, instead do it with the right oil.

If you using any other oils not meeting above specification by manufacturer, dramatically shorten oil change interval.

If I know your location, I could recommend where to get the right oil.

OgaKazeem:
original oil has always been 20w50
mileage 144k

I advise you to switch.

See advice here https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil/1#66660866

One more reason to switch better protection should you have fuel dilution problems, you don't want conventional oil in your engine. The way it will break down an consequently deny you of any protection that oiI is meant to provide while giving you the illusion of oil in your engine is something you don't want to experience.

Although this can happen to synthetic, it takes way longer to materialize, but in the meantime, synthetics will continue to afford you the kind of protection that conventional in the same circumstances would be hard put to provide.

Congratulations....

Note to self: start your own auto care blog

3kay945:
I base for ikotun.
I guess you suggesting Mobil and Castrol?

Lagos? Its all over Lagos.

You are looking in the wrong places.

I'll post two links to guide you.

Will modify this post later

MODIFIED

https:// www. Jumia.com .ng/engine-oils

https://www.nairaland.com/2653841/uber-partner-lagos-please-share/640#66676108

https://www.nairaland.com/2653841/uber-partner-lagos-please-share/638#66664280

3kay945:
What product name can one buy for the 5w20 or 30 spec as they are not easily found around.
I will like your response. Thanks
Motor : rav4 2002.

Where are you based?

I have traveled far and wide and I keep seeing these oils in places one could think they can't be found.

Mobil?
Castrol?

OgaKazeem:
Autoelectng... pls is it ok to run 5w30-40 on a 1999 nissan altima GXE?
i want to avoid sludge build up like d camry I was asking about. and I also want the car running smooth

I recommend the switch PROVIDED that you create a baseline as I have recommended.

See more details here http://mywikimotors.com/ka24de/

Try 5w30 compare with earlier baseline.

If you share the results of both, I can then advise either to continue with it or switch to 5w40

Jazzlite:
Over 200k. Parked for 7 years. Reactivated recently. After flush refilled with cheap total 20w50 for another flush after which I intend to switch to recommended oil grade.

Will revert

Jazzlite:
Can I switch my oil to 5W40? My w211 E320 V6.... After the flush.

Current mileage?

How many years of use?

Current oil?

Please follow my suggestion above...gather data first over 5,000 miles...so I can be objective not subjective

OgaKazeem:
Autoele.ctng... pls is it ok to run 5w30-40 on a 1999 nissan altima GXE?
i want to avoid sludge build up like d camry I was asking about. and I also want the car running smooth

First things first, create a baseline.
What is your mileage?

Next, kindly postpone the switch until you create a baseline by doing an oil change using the same oil you have been using.

Make a note to check how much of that oil has been consumed 1000 miles later. Scientifically that would mean draining and measuring the oil, accounting for the oil in the filter. Layman's method is observe the dipstick level. Even better take a picture.

Repeat 5 times. You could even plot the data x axis for time and y axis for oil consumed.

This baseline will be used to compare with using synthetic over the course of the next 5,000 miles against the factory oil consumption rate of 1 quart per 1,200 miles.

I have not yet answered the question but I will, start now to gather this information, we will need it to validate the switch should we determine we need to switch.

Jazzlite:
Three road trips per month with three oil changes.... should fix it.

Is it not an irony that most buyers want cars driven by women and lightly used...when short city trips are hard on the engine and long highway miles are softer (better) for the engine?

Jazzlite:
Sometimes believing all you read is wrong. That being said... Try Liquimolly Engine flush. Check Konga or jumia for it.

I also agree that this German product can be trusted.

They even do engine oil

OgaKazeem:
Autoelectng... pls is it ok to run 5w30-40 on a 1999 nissan altima GXE?
i want to avoid sludge build up like d camry I was asking about. and I also want the car running smooth

Still researching....once done...Will update this post

OgaKazeem:
if its a mix of ATF and engine oil, diesel/engine oil, Kerosene/engine oil. what quantity will they be?

I have already commented on the mix of ATF to engine oil somewhere on this thread.

As for the diesel thing, I'll leave that to the other resident expert and it's proponent.

You also have the choice to run full synthetic specd to your engine for as short as 1000 miles OCI then replace both oil and oil filter.

If I were you, I would also drive it like I stole it and not like a grandma.

This is the conservative approach.

Your car, your choice, your call

By the 5th oil change you should be sludge free.

OgaKazeem:
Tnx boss will surely note that
Pls do U av details of d enquiry above?

What enquiry?

seunoresco:
Apologies for the late reply, been running the car on 5w30 engine oil ever since. Car in very good shape and condition. Thanks. doesnt have any sludge issue. Runs like new

Thanks for the validation.

I have switched many vehicles from 20W50 to 5W30 without incident.

YMMV.

Before I recommend a position, I have taken my time to analyze authorities on the matter and take a reasoned and informed stand as opposed to an emotional or spur of the moment view. I am also willing to explain how I arrived at my decision,it gives me a chance to let someone poke holes in them if such exist which I did not see, giving me yet another chance to bow to superior wisdom, if it exists.

If I take a reasoned stand that turns out to be faulty, I will also retract and provide reasons for the change.

That is my promise.

ironheart:
abro.

If you wish to go my route, make sure you put an eye on your oil pressure light. Do not exceed 10min of idle. I did not go more than 7min. Then open the drain hole to drain the oil. You will be shocked the amount of black oil that will come out of your engine.

Bolded is very excellent advice.

collinsfhk:
OP please pardon me.

Fellow nairalanders, kindly help me out on the attached scan results. The car is 2003 Honda Accord (eod).

The car consumes so much fuel. A full tank gave me about 209 km in four days.

Thanks.

MODIFIED

P0705: recent transmission work? Driven through water? The electricals that tell the car what gear you have selected or the car is in are out of order. Could be the switch or the wiring. If it's the switch, a replacement is on the cards.

P0339: is the wiring to that sensor intact? If yes, what of the connector? Brittle? Inspect and maybe replace if it does nor look like the connection is tight

P0113: is the wiring intact? Broken? Loose? Or have two wires that should not make contact made contact?

Seen.

Will modify post with response tomorrow

Jazzlite:
I have such a problem... And now I used an engine flush... But the sludge is still thick at the upper ends... I have refilled with 20_50 and I am about to embark on a 300km journey... What do you advise? Should I use diesel flush....

Which vehicle? What engine?

Jazzlite:
I have such a problem... And now I used an engine flush... But the sludge is still thick at the upper ends... I have refilled with 20_50 and I am about to embark on a 300km journey... What do you advise? Should I use diesel flush....

Which vehicle?

OgaKazeem:
1. thermostat present. i put it back wen mumu mechanic comot am.
2. cooling fan running on default factory settings.
3. short distance (city driving) no travels. max of 20km daily...

could all these have caused it?

Then if I were you I would find a reason to go on a long journey of at least 250km round trip (preferably more )and beat the hell out of that Camry at least once a month

Short journeys are deadly for that engine

OgaKazeem:
tnx bro... m on it

gone tru it bro... i realise majority suggested going slow... by switching to synthetic oil like Gazzuzz suggested and doing a frequent oil change... i think dts d option i will take.

in line with this guys hope there wnt be any side effects switching from 20w50 (non synthetic oil) to 5w-30(synthetic oil)?

Depends on who you ask....Read more on it here https://www.nairaland.com/3933479/advice-needed-regards-engine-oil and here https://www.nairaland.com/3842959/need-professional-advice-n-mechanic

OgaKazeem:
thanks so much guys...

Read up this thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/226911-sludge-remedies-3.html It may be possible to overcome sludge without tearing apart the engine

Inception:
I think the non-invasive method may cause more harm than good in this case( using diesel or atf in place of engine oil and running the engine for 5 -10 mins)

it may end up dislodging sludge in some areas which might end up blocking smaller oil passageways ( similar to what stroke can do to a person)

truth be told, that engine needs either full invasive method or outright replacement as you earlier proposed.

If my vehicle has sludge, I would not run the engine on just ATF, it would be mix of 3 parts engine oil, one part ATF at best and 2 parts engine oil, 2 parts ATF at worst.

But I would also be prepared for the worst

EgunMogaji:
For our roads of course you’ll incorporate an hydraulic system which is easy and readily available.

This is the real solution to the problem solved in Nigeria by inserting a smaller spring into the bigger factory fitted springs of vehicles and using slightly taller tires.

Is this real or imagined?

Proof of sludge?

Pictures? Symptoms?

com1234:
thanks i followed the link and read the whole thread and links in it.

It is my personal opinion that an informed driver makes the work of modern automotive technician easier.

It has been my pleasure to help you

Please contact me on WhatsApp

RZArecta2:
he says thermostat was removed and fans were connected directly to the battery while only water is used as coolant

In my personal experience of all the factors listed, it is the inability of the fans to step up speed to address the increased heat evacuation requirements of A/C operation that caused your problem.

Even without A/C operation, in slow moving traffic, a vehicle with such configuration has a tendency to overheat due to the absence of ram air.

Have those problems been addressed

com1234:
.


Occasional jiggling (as if one is holding keys) at start up.


Any recommendation for the wrong oil issue? I.e the way forward.



Can other causes like sludges, faulty solenoid and wrong oil viscosity make the timing chain not to be aligned? Cos i am planning to get a mechanic to help me check the timing and also the presence of sludges.

Given your question about the way forward and not linking wrong oil to sludge, please take the time to go through this thread

https://www.nairaland.com/3842959/need-professional-advice-n-mechanic

Like I said before to pin it down on wrong oil, a physical inspection as suggested by the poster immediately above is the way to go