₦airaland Forum

Omihanifa:
If you know you know.

Thats what everyone is using for their weight loss

For this amount of weight loss, she will need more that this. She likely had surgery to reduce the size of her stomach

isangjohnson:
Looking at the harvest/production aspects of the PV, assuming the PV is well positioned and putting losses, external shadow, surface obstruction (birth droppings) and electrical issues into consideration, what are the advantages and disadvantages of 3S4P, 4S3P, 2S6P, 6S2P?
I'm planning to pick one of the above configurations but I don't know the best one among them.
My 9pcs of 450w Era PV (3 pcs to be added making it 12pcs) has Voc of 49.3v, Isc of 11.6A.
My 5kw inverter has PV Mppt Voltage range of 120v to 500v.
Max PV Voltage is 500Vdc.
To be connected to 15.5kwh LFP battery.

6S2P. The voltage range of your MPPT means the panel Voltage must reach 120v for the CC to wake up, best voltage range is usually stated on the manual but most times around about 300-400v. If you use any configuration less than 6 in series, then your harvest will be poor as your CC will wake up late and sleep early.
By the way you did not include the Amp of your CC to help calculate the total number of panels it can accommodate.
Selah.

I have been replying the mail request.s
Let's chat on 07zero-852-688four2

isangjohnson:
Oga someone needs your contact for urgent issues.

TechGeek777:
Please who is the jos guy?

That should be @Mantims

https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/1040#105037581

One last observation: what is the voltage output of the inverter/inverters? We use 220-240volts AC in Nigeria

demandtruth:
The description of the items is written there.

They bought it 10yrs and a warranty of 8yrs is given; no question asked if returned

OPICANTO2223:
The last time i went to hospital, Doctors were every where. Another strategic approach for salary increase.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/punchng.com/661-clinical-staff-resign-relocate-abroad-uch-cmd/%3famp

https://punchng.com/uk-licenses-91-nigerian-doctors-in-15-days/

The above links for your information. Exodus don begin since

Please clarify your comment/ question so I can get you better. Definitely one does not need to have 3 inverters. I explained why I set mine up like that. I started my setup small with the Sukham and it got bigger with time. I just didn't want them lying fallow when I could put them to good use

Obascoetubi:
u will still need 3 inverters when you have DEYE 10kva inverter?

Ok . I see his point now.
My usage of multiple inverters has been more for redundancy as I have explained above rather than having different banks.

earthrealm:
Coldcandy.

What he meant being cumbersome is the outdated design of having 2 inverters and or battery bank..for daytime and nighttime usage.
Its super cumbersome and makes no sense in the present day with low idle /self consumption hybrids.

A new model 8kw hybrid inverter has about 70watts to 100watts idle consumption, while the old traditional transformer based 8kw inverter will have idle consumption in excess of 250watts

isangjohnson:
Yes boss.
Kindly drop a skeletal diagram.
Thanks

I can see you have been answered. An appropriately sized regular knife switch will do.
I had three inverters connected at a point:
(1) 6kw transformer based
(2) 3.4kva hybrid Gennex
(3) 1.4kva Sukam
all to a 24v 800amp sealed battery setup.
The 6kva carry the whole house- ACs ,oven etc .Only used occasionally.
The 3.4kva is the workhorse. On during the day, fridge and pumping machine on timer on it.
In case the 3.4kva is faulty, the 1.4kva Sukam comes on board as backup to provide power for basic household needs.
All the inverters are permanently connected but 1and 3 usually switched off. Inverter 1 and 2 AC output goes to one Changeover and the output of that and inverter 3 goes to another changeover before finally to the DB for inverter and then to the house.
There is a however a direct wiring between inverter 1 to the main house DB so that the whole house is supplied .
I also have a standalone 60amp MPPT Cc connected to my battery bank to ensure adequate charging of my bank

coldcandy:
While this is possible it is also cumbersome. The 5kw can also work in the night. These machines are designed to work 24 hours.

Why is it cumbersome? It just involves shifting a knife switch up and down.

isangjohnson:
Please, is it possible for one pv string and one battery bank to run two inverters via changeover switch?
A case of total off grid where inverter A (say 5kw 48v hybrid) could be powered in the day and switch to inverter B (say 3.5kva 48v with standalone Mppt CC) in the night via changeover switch.
POINTER: One pv string and one battery bank (Lfp) tide to the two inverters.

Yes. I presume you mean that the changeover switch will determine which inverter outputs to the house.

Theoretically You can increase your battery bank to any capacity you wish as long as you maintained the 24v .
Practically, many issues will come into play mainly how you maintain the heath of batteries in a very large battery bank and charge adequately.

FEGEITOK:
Thank you very much.

The other question on my mind is I have the Homaya 1.5KVA which uses 2 batteries and is a 24-volt system.

What would happen if I connected more than 2 batteries provided that I still maintained the 24 volt system (in other words, increased the capacity beyond 2 batteries but kept everything else the same)

FEGEITOK:
The basis of my question is that I have a hybrid inverter and I have come to learn that I can connect an MPPT CC directly to the batteries that the hybrid inverter is connected to.

What I wanted to know is if it is also possible to connect two independent hybrid inverters to the same battery bank.

Note that I am not connecting the inverters to each other in the sense of stacking them like some manufacturers allow to increase capacity.

I mean by that the loads connected to let's say both inverters are totally unrelated and unconnected.

Is this done? Or can this be done?

Simple answer Yes, as long as they are the same nominal voltage. You connect in parallel which means you just connect each inverter as you would have connected it if the other one does not exist.
I almost always connect my system with redundant parts because i travel a lot and if there is an issue ,it will be easy to direct Madam on phone without allowing anyone to tinker with my system in my absence.

As you know,if you use both simultaneously you will drain your battery faster is all. If both charge simultaneously too, note not to exceed what the battery can take.
Make sure You can isolate/disconnect the PVs of each hybrid inverter or CC if there is need for it .
Continue flexing you setup.

interesting. I have the 2 CCs (60amps type) connected to the same bank 48v bank. Solar panels connected to them are in in the same place, same distance to the CC and yet the Epever CC always showed a marginal harvest than the pfangpusun. Internal calibration issues? just wondering.

Valto:
fangupsun, epever

I suspect the fuse at the battery side is cut. I had a similar challenge with an inverter once. I opened it located the fuse and gently replaced it. Working well since

abbeymighty:
Good day all,
please i need some who can repair 3kva hybrid i power inverter. it does not supply energy when on battery or solar but only supply when there is public power

Yep, I got one through you. I was in Enugu at that time we made the transaction and I needed it easily accessible to just pick as I pass through Lagos enroute return to base.
It is well described on the manual, so knew I could split cables but I am someone that have fallen in love with cable lugs and the fact that I can't get one into the terminals was a negative for me. Waiting to lay my hands on the new model and see. Buzz me anytime you have the new stocks

odimbannamdi:
Regarding the emboldened;

You will notice that there are 2 inlets each for the positive and negative terminals for the PV array and battery(ies). If your cables are too large to enter one inlet at a time, you can split them.into the two provided inlets for each terminal. It works that way.

This present version of the PowMr Charge controllers will go out of production on or before first week of next year as it has now been replaced by an improved version.

This new version can accommodate more panels and the heat dissipation feature is more better.

I will have it in stock before the end of the year, and I am working to maintain the price point of the old/current version so that customers can at least have more value for their money.

Meanwhile, i recall delivering one unit of this current version to your acquaintance around Obanikoro on your behalf. Thanks for your patronage, sir. Please let me know when you need another unit and i could provide you with some discount.

Thanks for the advice.
The ways I judge the possible output is quite rough. One is through the BMS of my Lithium battery/batteries attached to the Cc. That do not cater for losses from using small gauge wires from Cc to battery BUT gives me the actual amp that gets stored in my battery. The second method is back deduction from my inverter (Gennex) that has the capability to log stats on imput and outputs. For example if the inbuilt Cc says I generated 5kwh and the output energy was 8.5kwh, I could therefore duduce that the rest came from the PowMr
.

saint2ace:
Can you share what u use for logging data for daily harvest, it would be appreciated.

Secondly, for your connection point you could use wire connectors as shown in the picture below, that way Ur connection is neat and tight though crimping with ferrule connectors is more ideal..... Cheers

A short review: A low budget value for money. Need an MPPT CC with the most basic Interface but keeps working? Then get this!! PowMrI have 3 of them in use. Works well , relatively cheap and can work for 12,24,36 or 48v systems. Works with Lithium batteries and
lead acids variants. Excellent as a back up CC too in case you need one to fall back on. Planning on getting another one soon.
Cons? Plenty !
1) No log Interface to record daily harvests , so difficult to know exactly how much you are harvesting daily. I have to rely on other ways to get this.
2) Connect points are a bit small and take max of 6mm cables
3) the supplied screws to attach the CC to the wall sometimes are too small
4) Price is getting high nowadays

I will just like to point out that you will need about 3.5m to set this up ( batteries 1.4m, panels 1.2m, CC 240k, inverter 400k, accessories 260k) and if it's only for 2hours cooking per day , then it's not cost effective. RE outlay costs do not favour heavy users that need to factor in robust setups.
Unless you have specific reasons against gas cooker setup, that will be a better economic cost than RE for the scenario mentioned.

laptopsforsale:
Thank you very much for this advise. I imagine that 48v configuration will require that I get 16units of the 230ah cells, right?

Also, in light of your advise, do I need to make a significant increase to my solar array and charge controller? I definitely know I need to get a 48v inverter.

PS: Is there anything like a 36v configuration?

My answer to "who solar epp?" My usage in 18months. I wonder how much it will cost me to achieve same with generator?

Wow! This is very interesting. Can you give me the idea of the battery bank capacity of lead acid that you can comfortably draw 100amps plus for 5 hours on a stretch and the possible costs?
Thanks a million.

samnaija:
Not only lithium , but a big battery bank.

Na so o! I harvested 1.2kwh from my 1.520kw solar panels yesterday where I had harvested 7.7kwh max before. I could hardly believe my eyes. I have decided to reactivate a setup (1.08kw poly panels) I had erstwhile ignored for about 2 years. E baaad gaaaan!

adrusa:
Possibly the worst week for solar in the South West for as long as I can remember.

In the last few weeks the forum here has been a bit edgy with a lot of raw nerves and people all out for each others throats. I believe most of us here wish to hangout with people of like interests, some are hobbyist, some are professional installers , some are marketers with a lot of admixture in between. While I had sold used batteries to Keikie and bought used batteries from Ojeysky in the past, I will find it laughable if someone calls or views me other than an hobbyist.

Like in any public forum, if you request for advice then be prepared to receive a potpourri of advices. the onus is on the person to take what suits you. It is not by force to take any advice from anybody but I tend to really appreciate the vocal people in this forum ready always to respond to peoples questions and queries. Yes, YouTube is there and Google but thanks always for deeming it fit to take time out to respond to my questions even if you have something to sell!

I have a friend that I introduced to renewable energy. four years on, he is still very comfortable with his single 100amps 12volt battery with 2 150w panels and a cheap 20amp pwm CC. He linked his 2 DC fans, six 2w DC bulbs, CCTV, 2 Tvs and swore to me recently that his life has never been better. He has no wish whatsoever to increase anything in that setup. I respect his position and don't call him names. His setup cannot last 30 minutes for me and I sincerely cannot imagine living with that but we remain civil to each other.

If you have the funds to soak on 16 pieces of 12v batteries then sincerely LA is not your best bet. I will work on some assumptions, so bear with me and correct me anywhere l presumed wrongly
1) Capacity for money: 12v /200ampsx16 will give about 38kwh POTENTIALLY. At 50% DOD, that will be 19kwh of available energy for about 3 million .
At @ 700k/ 6kwh of lithium you will likely get 24 to 28kwh of Lithium considering Lithium's 90% plus DOD capability.
2) Charge and discharge rate tolerance favours Lithium
3) Lifespan: I am even presuming the same lifespan of 5years for both. However, If 5 years is my tolerance limit, I won't go for Pylontech with it's bells and whistles. I will go for a local assembly with some warranty/guarantee cover for some few years. The balance I will pass on getting more Capacity BECAUSE the main KOKO BE SAY : how much energy can I make use of now!!

NB: I started using Lithium in 2020. I have 5 different battery packs now including Pylon Tech US 3000. Total capacity of my packs is 24kwh. Prior to that I had more than 10 years experience of LA ( from AGM to tubular) . I still have some LA in service- total of 6 200amps 12vs, but likely NOT to procure new ones

FEGEITOK:
So based on the above discussion on Lithium versus Lead Acid Batteries.

Here are my choices

1. Quanta AGM 12V 200AH x 16
2. Deka AGM 12V 200AH x 16

3. Lithium - which brands do you recommend? I just saw Pylontech mentioned

In fairness to the thread, I have not really read past posts on this issue, I know I will need to do that.

My questions are:

1.Which brands do you recommend and why?
2. What is the difference in cost between 1 and 2 above and the 3 that you recommend.

Thanks.

FireTheSun:
I want to believe you have your reasons for identifying yourself as the Installer. If you did not, you can bet l wont, it is not my style of correcting someone. But you have, so that burden is no longer on me.
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Now, I will MENTION and EXPLAIN a few things:

- How can you say: "we did a fine install but you had leaks"? (in the Roof, after your work)
Are Leakages in the Roof, (when l did not have them before you came to install), part of this "fine install"?

- How can l confirm to you that "we are good", when it has not rained, after the effort of the person you sent, and when you asked?
I confirmed to you that he came and did his job, "hopefully" the leakage would have been rectified, but that can only be determined after it rains again!

Yes, we had Leaks, even after his effort . Not because he did not do a good Job but because he can only do as much!
He was able to block some visible Nail holes but the damage was varied and widespread

The Roofer you sent tried his best (you should have brought along this Roofer with you, when you came to do the installation) but "Squashed" Aluminum Steptiles Roofing Sheets are impossible to be straightened up again after crushing it by walking on them without due care, anyone who had seen Steptiles Aluminum Roofing Sheets, knows this. We had Leakages from various Nail points as well..
I was "shocked" since that was my first experience of a Leaking Roof ( and angry" as well), though internally, l was blaming myself, for the choice l made.
I just decided to "learn the lessons" and concentrate effort to rectify the problem, as quickly as possible.

The "other side" could not have been repaired, when the Roofer you sent came to do the repair because, as of that moment, l never knew there were leaks on that side too (My Tenant was not around during that period when you installed the Panels on his side).

I did not say the "repairs" will cost over #2M.
What l said was that l will have to replace the Roofing Sheets with new ones, at over #2Million.
Replacement => Put in fresh Roofing sheets.
Repair => Call Roofer to be looking for Holes to plug.

But he cant push-back-out and straighten all the depressions caused by your Legs marching (carelessly) on the Steptile Aluminum Roofing Sheets, can he?.
Somethings, when damaged, can never go back to their original form, even after repair. What you do is replace them, if you want to go back to your initial state before the damage.
That is current state of the problem now.

When it rains, depending on the intensity of the rain, those "Foot Depressions" act like BOWLS, they store rain water and then when full, the Water overflows in a direction of least resistance, without following the grooves, (as it would have done in an undamaged Roofing Sheet) which can be anywhere on the roof!
Roofing sheets on a Roof are meant to have smooth grooves and slanted in a particular direction so that water flows down as it drops on it, without accumulating in "big depressions" created by squashing of 10 People's feet walking on the Roof .....without a care or as if it is made of Wood! I explained all these to you back then. I took pictures and sent them to you.

The Roofer you sent did try to "push-back-out" some of these Squashed Depressions on the Steptile Roofing Sheets, (from inside the Ceiling) but in most cases, they only got worse because Steptile Roofing Sheet are not supposed to be pushed in and out, due to the designs on them and the Depressions were just too many.

l am the sort of person that likes inconveniencing people, including my tenant, with a leaking Roof.
How does someone pay me premium Money for a House and he has to be collecting water in his Bedroom, Kitchen, etc, because the House Owner installed Solar Panels?
What l wont take, l wont do to others and l have promised him that once l am back in the country from my Travels, l will replace All the Roofing Sheets in that area that were depressed with your feet and leaking, with new ones.
By my estimate, it will cost over #2Million to complete the job. That is what l wrote.
If your intention is to contest the amount, then go and find out how much they sell a length of 0.55 gauge Aluminum Steptile Roofing sheet and multiply by how many will cover the area, (add accessories like Nails, Flyband, rent Ladder, etc to it and include workmanship).
Add the cost of damaged, suspended Ceilings to it (areas where the Water leaked unto the suspended Ceilings and they buckled, after getting soaked)

But l am sure you would have learned some lessons from that job, which is the crucial thing.

- Like not having too many people on the Roof, at the same time. Just the minimum required.
At that time you were doing my Installation, you had yourself and four other guys on my Roof a few times though most times, you were on the ground.! It was as if my Roof was being used as a 'teaching experiment'.
As you guys were working and walking around on the Roof, l could hear the sound of "Crushing of the Roofing Sheet", with each Step taken, as they were walking on it!
I am sure you remember how l was raising the Alarm that you guys will damage this Roof? The Crushing sound was so evident from inside the House! You kept assuring me nothing will happen and l believed you, against my instincts.
I want to believe such wont happen in the future, when you install for others.
Experienced Installers should know how to delicately walk on the Roof without Squashing the Aluminum Steptile Roofing Sheet, those things are kind of fragile.

Like l said, another installer (just Three people, only Two were on the Roof, One was Down) recently installed additional Five Panels (655W each) earlier this year, all the area he worked on, not a single leak and the rain has been brutal this year, so it is not about the material or style of Roof, it is just "inexperienced" Workmanship.

Remember you told me l have to buy another Inverter, if l were to add those New, Five Panels?
Well, we did not have to buy any other Inverter, the New Installer l engaged just re-arranged the whole configuration and it is pumping out Power mercilessly..
We are completely off-grid in the last four Months-plus and Electric Cooker, Washing Machine, Submersible Pumps, Freezers and all other Home appliances are under normal use, though we do stagger and Submersible Pump not to run around 2pm only.
Why did l mention this? It appears there is a "knowledge gap", when you told me l cant add those New Panels to the existing ones, unless l buy a Second Inverter (which l would have done, if you came that day as l had called Gennextechnologies office immediately).
You said you needed to run them New Panels separately on a separate Inverter, for them to work.
As God will have it, l did not have to buy another Inverter.

My aim, in not mentioning the identity of the Installer (which drew the ire of some people here), is to mention the problem so the installer or anyone in such position, can learn from such mistakes, without damaging the image or brand of such offending Installer. I have No Apology for that decision, that is who l am

I never raised the issue here, until l was "wowed" by the Installation of that many panels by @Chris and even at that, l still kept your identity PRIVATE, with someone abusing me over it!. Having worked for me and our discussions about 'Unilag', you obviously knew, as an elderly person, exercising control over one's anger, even when l feel offended, is not unusual, would l ask you to come and replace the Roof that was damaged? (I remember explaining the issue of "vicarious liability" to you, on phone)
Being Vindictive, is not one of my attributes moreover, l passed those stages, a long time ago, l dont know who my own grown-up children will meet, in far flung places.

I hope this brings Closure to the whole matter, now that the Installer has identified himself.

A quote from one of the holy books came to mind:
Colossians 4:6 ASV
Let your speech be always with grace, seasoned with salt, that ye may know how ye ought to answer each one.

If 100m 'round trip' I presume the actual distance is 50m? Please clarify. Even if 50m is quite a long distance (almost length of 2 plots of land) that voltage drop will seriously affect harvest. Consider running in series as advised

Ovaltine:
Cable is 100m round trip. 10mm



Highest I get is 650w. I think MPPT is 60A.

Roughly 900w

Ovaltine:
Hi guys,

I have 2 pieces of 320W and 2 pieces of 300W panels; all are mono and connected in parallel.
Given a suitable MPPT charge controller, how many watts should I expect to generate given a good sunlight hour?

Thanks . I have checked. Looks interestingly simple to use

earthrealm:
For inverters without LVD. If the bms triggers its own Lvd, it usually cuts off discharge side, the supply/charge mosfet will still be on, so battery will charge when sun or nepa kicks in...and once the voltage rises enough, the bms Lvd will be overriden and the inverter will start powering your load again..

Pls note, this will shorten the life of the bms, as its not designed to be the primary Lvd trigger.

There is a small standalone device you can connect to your inverter to serve as LVD device if you have an old inverter without LVD
XH-M611, e dey aliexpress

A general question to Lithium users with generic/medium level inverters or Cc without dedicated Lithium profile:
If the battery gets depleted at night and the BMS kicks in to shut discharge down, how do your Cc/inverter picks up when the sun rises in the morning? As most Ccs and inverters have battery as their priority power supply to function?
Is there another way to prevent this than manual shutdown on inverters without modifiable LVD levels?

Some clarifications please:
Does it have
1)adjustable parameters especially level of LVD?
2) Lithium profile especially Pylontech?
I will be happy to see the spec sheet too

Thanks

zeestone99:
Available now

Sorotec 3.5kva Revo Vmii parallel 100a - 300k
Sorotec 5.5kva Revo Vmii parallel 100a - 390k
Parrallel kit - 30k

Noted.

idsolar:
What I have now is a fairly used Prag 4kva 48v. Used in an off-grid status. Change due system upgrade. Interested wasap 0.8.033735.35.9.

Is it 48v?

zeestone99:
Sorotec 3.5kva hybrid 100a available - 285k

Call/chat - 08117398294