kristien4:
Greetings to the house. Can i connect 9pieces of jinko 580w panel [ 51v VOc @STC] total 459v to a growatt spf 5000es[max voc 450v] and just hope that cable losses, environmental conditions will clip the extra 9volts or more. Is it a bad gamble?

Alright, I've done the tests and all I can say is MPPTs are interesting devices.

#1: Battery fully charged. Time 2:30 pm. As close to peak irradiance as I can get. PVs are sending out 138-140v but just 1A. Essentially the power I need to run my idle load.

Note: Even without any load on the inverter (switched to grid input) my incoming voltage doesn't go past 140v.

#2: I turn on my air fryer. Voltage from PV drops to the minimum 120v rating of my inverter. Current rises to 8.5A to meet the energy demands of the air fryer.

Inverter is a 3.3KVA SRNE high-voltage model. I have three 580w Jinko panels connected in series to it. Panels are rated at 51v VOc at STC, but 48.5v NOCT.

At 140v, it appears I'm actually getting around 46.5v from each panel at peak irradiance.

Does that mean you should exceed your VOC by the 9v you quoted? Well, if my tests are anything to go by, you'd probably be safe. In the first place, you're never going to be getting STC numbers. My panels were at 41° during this test. Find attached Jinko's graph on temperature vs voltage. At a glance, it appears the panels only make about 93% of VOC at 41°.
Also, there are losses from cables.

At the end of the day, though, it's your call to make.

Xanderone:


The thermocool inverter freezer I referred to is actually 319L. Always loaded to the brim at night (beverages, water etc) when business is closed for the day.

Your hisense 198L freezer power consumption is perfect at 110w. It will most likely drop further when items are frozen.

There's a hisense 212L (non inverter) that peaks at 135w when items are freshly loaded in it. By the time it freezes over, I get as low as 68 watts (see attached picture)

There is also a Thermocool 217L (regular condenser) but currently under repairs, that peaks at 168 watts with fresh items. It troughs at 98 watts when it's all frozen over.

That's pretty good and shows Hisense efficiency is top tier these days.

Xanderone:


Thanks so much.

I believe the consumption can drop as much as 650w sef, so long as the set temperature is reached. Right now at 5:56pm,it has dropped to 831 watts with the room temperature at 27 degrees. That's the thing with inverter tech. But I don't believe it's comparable to the reviews I got about the LG dual inverter and maybe the Thermocool Gen pal series, whose consumption can drop to as low as 400w after cooling is achieved. That 250watts extra alone makes much difference when you're running off of batteries at night. I mean, my Thermocool inverter freezer alone uses 200w at it works well overnight. The balance of 50watts can still power a TV for another 6 hours before you retire to bed.

I assume the "Gen mode" is meant for the dual inverters or some other models close to it that has LVS (low voltage starter) and AVS (Automatic Voltage Switch) features in them, something which my model obviously lacks.

I don't think this can be returned. My request was for LG INVERTER AC and that's what I was provided. I wasn't particular about DUAL cos I was even ignorant about a dual inverter version anyways. The merchant and I both have a nice relationship and I wouldn't wanna strain it by rubbing my own mistake on them. Although I may explore the possibility sha, but Shey I will tell them that I want to return what I bought ni? 😂. What of the pre-filled gas that has already been used?

I feel if I can just do a garage sale to a willing buyer with about 60 to 80k off the original price.

Quite interesting as my Hisense 198L chest freezer only takes 110w at most.

kristien4:
Greetings to the house. Can i connect 9pieces of jinko 580w panel [ 51v VOc @STC] total 459v to a growatt spf 5000es[max voc 450v] and just hope that cable losses, environmental conditions will clip the extra 9volts or more. Is it a bad gamble?

I have the exact same panels, I'll tell you what voltage I get at peak irradiance.

Hopefully tomorrow.

Xanderone:


Damn! So now I know that I've really fv_cked up. The only thing I can do now is probably sell that one to get the right one. Cos it's only less than a week ago that I got it. I don't think rushing to get another 470k worth of an AC is for me financially reasonable at the moment. If I have 470k to spare right now, it will definitely be routed to further upgrade of my solar system rather than some overwhelming urge to get cooled inside the room.

And to even think that people have generally been a little more financially down to say they have some cash lying around to quickly buy a used AC, of all things.

I'm so pained.

I've taken a screenshot of your comment. I must not make that stupeeed error again.

No point getting a new AC. Not a wise use of money imo, spend that in expanding your PV array instead so at least you'll be covered in the afternoon.

osayuwamwen:
Lighting killed my inverter and Felicity controller last night, am so pained

Oof, so sorry man.

Thunderstorm last night was shocking.

Xanderone:
Also this is all I read in the manual about the Gen mode. So it doesn't seem tk be something remotely connected with energy saving mode to me. It looks like something to do with drop in voltage associated with generator when many loads are placed on it.

So since I don't use Gen, but solar, I haven't even tried working with that "Gen mode" button yet As in I haven't pressed that button at all.

I have a tuya energy monitor/switch inline with the AC, so I'm able to monitor its consumption in-app.

Gen Mode cuts down on power consumption by like 30%

Cooling is reduced too, but it's an acceptable trade-off.

QuoteJust1nce:


You're better off not listening to this guy (if it's not you lol )
Same guy that said MPPTs are waste of money and PWMs do exactly the same thing as MPPTs;
He didn't even understand the physics behind excess voltage conversion and said it was a marketing scam.
Run ooooo!!!!

Na dunce.

mctfopt:


There is this crazy thing Asian inverter manufacturers do, they label an inverter one thing while the pf shows true capacity to be another. Who knows the pf of the so-called 2.5kva

What a scam.

icjunior:


Can I DM you?

Sure.

icjunior:
My 2500 smarten inverter couldn't properly power my 1hp inverter LG AC unit.

It would power on and the compressor would pick up,but within few minutes,the overload protection of the smarten inverter kicks in showing that I'm running at 104% of the inverter capacity.

What could be the problem please?

PS: The AC was the only appliance running on the smarten inverter as at then.

And the load % on the inverter was increasing gradually till it got to that 104%.

Maybe your Smarten inverter isn't actually 2.5kva.

My LG 1 HP Dual Inverter consumes a max of ~700w normally, and about 550w on gen mode.

aizakun:
Good morning, pls is Sunfit 270AH tubular battery okay to be used, kindly help me out as I intend to purchase 2 units for my 3.5kva transformer inverter

Why not buy Lifepo4?

[quote author=Edrizz post=129897056][/quote]

9A or thereabouts.

ibietela2:
Can foreign Inverters work in Nigeria? Those sold on Amazon

Like this one https://www.amazon.com/PowMr-Inverter-220-230V-Controller-LiFePO4/dp/B0CGMKK354/

Why not.

Not sure I'd buy a Powmr inverter, though. Reviews aren't stellar.

Sapiosexuality:
To those running solar, I'm just curious. When last did you use your generator? Did you have to sell it after installing your solar?

Ultimately comes down to what setup you have. Average inverter is more powerful than the average generator in terms of pure capacity. No reason why you'd need a generator if your battery and PVs are equally capable. That said, an emergency power source is always welcome.

For me, the only appliances I wouldn't be comfortable running off my inverter are my water heaters. And that's just because my PVs are inadequate.

Edrizz:



What brand n wattage is ur pv? Is the 11.5amps ISc or Imax?

Jinko 580w. 11.68A NOCT ISC. STC ISC is 14A.

Parser:


Power is not power when it comes to inductive load. It's because you're using inverter AC. You can go lookup on batteryless setup on YouTube, you will see AC doesn't want to power with 10A Pv and 400V until the guy had to add another array to increase current.

Tbf, it's important to point out that I don't have a batteryless setup. I have a lifepo4 battery hooked up, but it just doesn't draw any current from it when running the AC. I'm essentially pulling 150v+ from my PVs in the afternoon, I'm sure the inverter does all the necessary conversions.

Parser:


11A panel cannot give u 11A consider losses. Just do the two parallel end up getting near 18 to 19A. U guys that are doing this high voltage series should give us feedback with inductive loads...how many Ac's were they able to power without battery during the day with 11 to 13A PV or more.

Power is power, regardless of voltage/current split.

My inverter is limited to 13A, my PVs max out at 11.5A, but I don't think I've ever gotten more than 9A in the real world.

Still I run a 1 HP inverter AC in the afternoon comfortably without the inverter drawing any power from my battery.

bigrovar:
Hello guys,

I have an barely used SRNE HESP Series 6kw Hybrid inverter for sale. The Inverter was initially purchased for my personal use but decided I needed more power and got a 8kw Hybrid inverter instead. The inverter was purchased directly from SRNE authorized distributor on April and on April 2024. I am used it for some weeks but has since been replaced.

The inverter came with a 5 years warranty and it is build using the double enclosure design (popularized by Deye) where the fan and heat sink are on the separate enclosure allowing the main enclosure to have an IP65 for water, moisture and dust.

The inverter comes with 2 up blowing fans and as such the thermals of the inverter has been very stable all through my use ie temperature never rose above 60C. I have attached a screenshot of the thermals from my use of the inverter as pulled from my monitoring dashboard.

The specs of the inverter include the following.

6kw rated output
2 x 4500w MPPT charge controller (120v-500v)
Support for Lithium battery connection via can port
You can read more about the specs here https://www.srnesolar.com/userfiles/files/2023/09/19/SRNE_HESP%20series_EU_48V_4%EF%BD%9E6kW_230V_Solar%20Storage%20Inverter_datasheet_1.5.pdf

Going price is 900,000

Sold

What inverter did you replace this with?

Drgreatone:

Are u sure about this your last sentence? Wud u say same of must/felicity?

No, I think Must and Felicity use other designs. Possibly Axpert. Not sure.

But Powmr, Easun, EG4, MPP look to use SRNE designs.

SRNE essentially was an ODM till a few years ago. They just made hardware and sold to other companies who then badged and branded them. It's not too long ago they started selling their own models with the SRNE badge. It's documented on forums like diysolar.

abbeymighty:
Good day all,
Please did PowMr have office or repair center in Lagos?

I'd be surprised if Powmr has repair centers anywhere in the world, since what they are really do is rebadge hardware from SRNE.

ibietela2:
Good evening, please I want to start buying materials and keeping them instead of waiting to do it all at once.

Which should I buy first? I was thinking of the growatt SPF ES5000, then panels and batteries.

Which type of panels should I get and battery type too.

Any other recommendations are welcome, especially ways or materials that will not cost me a lot but still be able to work

Thanks

Start with knowing your peak typical load so you know what inverter to buy
Then calculate how much storage you need for your load at night (I'd recommend night load * 15h to know the battery size you need)
Then I'd say divide your battery size by 2 to know the panel output you need, so you can essentially have a full charge by 1pm on average days.

mctfopt:


Yeah, but I want to get close to that 6000w PV capacity. The best I could do is roughly 4500w.

If we're being objective, you probably will never get the max output of your panels in Nigeria. When sun is out on full blast, temperatures also rise which then drops voltage.

It's more likely that you get NOCT Pmax, which is around 77% of your panels' rated output.

If you're getting around 20KWh daily from your 6000w setup, you're doing about as fine as you possibly can imo.

If you absolutely need to get 6000w, then you just need to oversize your panels as much as you can while staying within the VOC limit of your inverter.

Edrizz:



Infact, I'm also at the Cross road on this subject matter, though it's already written on the manual that high ISC of the solar panel will not affect the inverter but my concern is that, why waste energy when I could get a panel with ISC of 13amps n below... abeg help share a panel with ISC less than 13amps

Pretty much all the Jinko panels will serve you. 580W panel has about a max amperage of 13A.

mctfopt:


Dang. I'm trying to see how I can wiggle my way out of Growatt's ES5000 22A maximum input current.

Just connect in series...

Also, unlike voltage, current needs to be drawn. Even if your setup is supplying 25A isc, your Growatt will only pull the 22A it's limited to. You still lose some power but not much, since it's not like you'll be getting isc anywhere near regularly.

My SRNE has a max input of 13A but a 500v VOC, so I just ran my PVs in series.

mctfopt:
Does anyone know of a premium solar panel up to 450w with 10A or less Isc? Please share the product name.

Doubt you'll see. Even Longi 350w panels are 11A. Same as Jinko 440W.

durodee:
Sometimes there is waste in the midst of need

I bet these still perform quite well.

zeestone99:


Yes sir. In and output

No AC going in but yes, I'll install a breaker in output. Already bought one, just bought the wrong breaker box initially.

Dam5reey:


Attached is one of the functions.
its a Voltage regulator, Current limiter, Grid Delay, volt and current meter, and shortcircut protection.

Lol, my setup isn't connected to grid at all. So no, I don't need a voltage regulator.

Just need breakers between inverter to battery, and inverter to AC output.

zeestone99:


I hope you have Avr/current limiter installed sir

This battery is so fine looking.

Between inverter and AC output?

Valentinooo:


Where did you get this your srne inverter?

HMSolar.

24v 4KWh battery from isangjohnson.

So far so good.

Scientheosopher:
Hello, everyone.
What ideal inverter system (no solar panels) setup can power a deep freezer of about 200W for 5hrs and 3 LED light bulbs of 30W each?
NOTE: Solar panels (and other essentials) would be added later.
Budget: ₦500,000

290w*5= 1.45kwh

Including idle consumption and other miscellaneous power draws, let's say 1.8kwh.

Eseentually, you need two 150aH tubular batteries at the very least. That will run you 400k+ right now.

Your budget just isn't enough, I'm sorry. Raise it to around 800k and you may be able to sneak by. There's a guy who just advertised a Smarten hybrid for 290k.

That said, though, you may be able to get by with used batteries, a sachet inverter, and a pwm cc.

microgiant:


He is talking about grid tie inverters, You don't need a CC to feed into the grid, most are even connected to a panel then the house power system. The house loads are powered and excess is feed into the grid which is recorded by the meter. At sundown, the meter reverses feeding back into the house. E.g. if you generate 5kw during the day and use only 1.5kw, 3.5kw is feed to the public utility(electricty company is owning you), at night, you can use the 3.5kw from the utility, and any extra is what you pay for.

The meters in Nigeria, if you feed to public line, your meter will still deduct the units. So which ever way the KW flows, you are charged for it

Can you even feed back into the grid in Nigeria?