₦airaland Forum

appleton: @stepedie thank you for this insight... Finally I'm convinced that my car its actually gulping fuel.

Hey! Go to my profile, click on my posts and go through them. You will find some threads there where similar issues like yours were treated. You might get some info there.

Ikenna.

patlead: thanks a lot ikenna.

my temp sits a bit above the middle, is this normal?

It depends on how long it stays there. Electric Radiator cooling fan switches on when temp rises a little above the middle of temp guage or 90 C (thats when thermostat opens to pass very hot coolant from engine to radiator, to allow in warm coolant from the radiator with the work of water pump). Withing seconds of the fan(s) coming on & running, the needle on the temp guage will come back to the middle or 90 C & the fan will go off again (meaning the thermostat has closed), till another 5 - 10 mins & switches on again, if the car remain stationary, especially when in hold up. But as soon as the car starts moving or gaining a little speed, the fans will go off & will remain off till you meet another stop & go traffic or reach your final destination. This is only applicable to fans that are still factory connected & the thermostats are not removed from the engine.

So from your explanation, you can see that connecting the fans to run constantly does not prevent the car from overheating if the thermostat has been removed, like i have explained in my previous post. So if the temp guage needle remains constantly above middle of the guage in a traffic jam, then either your thermostat has been removed or the thermostat is stuck closed. Observe & let us know.

Ikenna.

Have you tried checking the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) mounted on Throttle body? Hope none of your engine vacuum line is leaking (vacuum leak)?

There is this Nissan guy in this forum, Nisspart, i think. He should know what is wrong, if you can get hold of him. But check the two things i mentioned above. They can give such symptom, if faulty.

Ikenna.

Wow! Even my car, daily driver, that is V6 does not consume more than that amount in a month. I usually spend between 6k to 7k, but have never spent more than 9k, every month in fueling the car so far, unless when taking it for long distance.

I believe you were the person I spoke with this morning, about your car issue. Aside scanning the car, there are so many threads here that have treated overfueling issue. I will post the links here, as I find them.

The easiest for you, like we discussed on the phone, would be to try and get a cheap place you can scan the car and post the DTC (Diagnostics Trouble codes) codes you pulled. We can then advice.

Ikenna.

I forgot to add. A radiator electric fan, that is still factory connected, will not come on or will remain off till engine temp tries to exceed the normal operating engine temperature a little or when you switch on A/C. This can happen when you are in traffic jam/hold up or when you start your car in the morning & let it idle for more than 20-30 mins. But as long as the car is in motion (speeding more than 40 km/h), the fan(s) will not come on or spin. Let assume you drive from Lagos to Abuja non-stop, which is about 12 hrs drive, the radiator fans will remain off till you reach Abuja, unless you meet holp up on the way or while passing a town. With the factory connection, your car radiator electric fan motor would hardly fail & could last as long as the car last, due to less use.

The "climate" crap Nigerians buy makes me sick. No matter how hot a climate/weather is, the thermostat is there to regulate the cooling. That is what its there for. Nigerians are confusing it with the Nigerian assembled Peugeot 504s & 505s cooling system. They had their radiator cooling fans locked to the engine/water pump pulley, which made them very thirsty on fuel (engine always running cold). Ask many people that had owned them in the past & they will tell you number of times they rebuilt their engines (XN1 & XN1A carb engines). But all 504s & 505s assembled in Europe never had such cooling system set up. They had Viscous mechanical fan. A clutched fan coupling that works like the radiattor electric fan. It made them to conserve fuel too like the japanese cars & made their engines more durable than ours.

Ikenna.

bigx: Hmmmmmnnnn, na wa o, there's this scary connection in my Engine I saw after I loaned my car to a friend, There is a wire coming from the Fan to the Alternator and the fan always starts running and does so continously once the engine is turned on,
I asked what happened and he told me exactly what you said earlier that he saw the Temperature at 90 and took it to "fix" the overheating.
He doesnt stay in the same city with me so I'm confused how to reverse the connection as there are so many wires in the Fan Assembly,
Any tips?

90 C is the normal/optimal operating engine temperature of 99% vehicles I have come accross with. The 90 C is usually the middle of temperature guage in the instrument cluster ( or what Nigerians call dashbord).

Ikenna.

Usually, Radiator electric fans are trigered on or controlled by radiator sensor or ECU via CTS/temp sender. Peugeot use radiator sensor to switch on their electric radiator fans, while most Japmobiles use ECU to do the same. I guess yours is ECU controlled. They had bypassed the ECU connection to the fan wiring connector, for it to be constantly running. You can trace back the original/factory connection of the fans with wiring diagram, test light or if you were there when it was bypassed(by knowing the wire(s) they cut off).

When Radiator electric fan spins constantly, the engine would always run cold or it would take the engine temperature eternity to rise a little, thereby more wear and tear. If the thermostat is removed, the engine would always run cold & would always run on extreme dangerous high temperature, when the engine eventualy warms, which could blow up the head gasket.

Usually, engine will be cold every morning. For a cold engine to start, it would need excess fuel to get it started. The CTS will signal to ECU that the engine is very cold, when you switch on the ignition to start the car in the morning. When you crank the engine, the ECU (aka brainbox for Nigerians) will command the injectors to spray in excess fuel and advance timing, for the engine to be able to start. When the engine starts, it would take some or few mins for the coolant temperature in engine walls to rise. As the coolant temp rises, the cts will continue to signal to ecu the graduall rising of coolant temp, which will make the ecu to reduce the amount fuel injectors spray into the combustion chambers, as temp rises. When the engine gets to optimal/normal operating engine temp (like 90 degree celsius), the ecu will finally flatened or reduced completely the amount of fuel going into the combustion chambers. Thus, the work of CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), usually located on Thermostat housing.

So, if your engine is always running cold or runs cold longer than it should (because the constantly spinning fan wouldnt let the coolant temp to rise), then your car would always be running thirsty ( consuming too much fuel) & there would be more wear & tear in the engine, since the proper lubrication of the engine has been hindered. Note that everytime you start your engine in the morning, there will be a little friction that will cause some wears on moving parts inside the engine, but would soon stop as engine oil gets warmer. But if the engine continues to run cold for a long time, the oil remains cold/thicker and there wont be proper lubrication. Hence, engine failure sooner than it should. So you see what has been happening to that engine!

If you remove your cooling system thermostat, the fluid/coolant in the engine walls wont have enough time to boil/warm up to optimal temp, before it flows/push back to radiator via the work of water pump. If the car is driven for a long time in city/traffic, the coolant/water in the cooling system would heat beyond optimal temp & wont cool off, because the fluid is continuosly flowing from engine walls to radiator & back to the engine walls, where combustion is taking place, heating or getting the coolant more hot. Even if the fans are contnuosly spinning, the fluid wont stay long in the radiator to be cooled off by the fans, before its pushed back to the engine. This could lead to head gasket failure. Its the work of thermostat to regulate the flow of coolant in the cooling system. Removing it is a call for wahala. Though, it can be temporally removed and used without, if need be. But permanent removal is a call for engine replacement or rebuild.

You said your car is emitting smoke from the exhaust tail. What color is the smoke?

1. Blue smoke means your engine is burning oil (which usually is caused by improper engine lubrication,etc, as i have explained above).
2. Black smoke means exccesive fueling (one or two of engine sensors or components that controls fuelling is faulty).
3. White smoke means head gasket failure (especially when its constant).

Hope that helps or has answered your question. Or did I get you scared or confused?

Ikenna.

Bypassing original connection & connecting the fans to run constantly as soon as ignition is on, because of climate? Is that what they told you, the reason for killing your engine? Climate? Hmm! The same you will go back to the mechanic to rebuild your engine soon or replace it, when it start emitting blue smoke from the exhaust, as a result of engine running cold constantly, not rising to optimal engine temp whenever the engine is running. Well, goodluck with your climate belief thing.

Mind you, your fan that died was because it was running constantly, which it wasnt designed to. So, be expecting the newly replaced one to die soon. Or maybe the 2nd one.

Ikenna.

If you are saying your car is not running very thirsty, with the loss of power issue & that the engine doesnt rough idle, then your AFM should be ok. If its spark plug lead issue, your engine would not only be rough idling, but also be misfiring. The whole front end would be vibrating, if not the whole body, when you try to accelerate from a stop.

Hope no one has unplugged or tampered with the TPS (throttle Position Sensor)? It gives such symptoms if faulty or unplugged. The sensor is on the throttle body. It has 3 wires plugged in. I believe yours is potentionmeter type.

Have you checked if all vacuum lines are well plugged-in in their holes? Also have you checked if any is leaking? If any is leaking, listen you will hear hissing sound from the leak spot when engine is idling. Or you can spray carburretor cleaner on the vacuum lines, gradually, when engine is idling. If there is a leak, the leak spot will absorb the fluid & the engine sound will change or go up as soon as it does that (i.e. as soon as you spray on the spot that is leaking). But to do this, you must wait till engine is cold or do it in the morning. Carb cleaner is an explosive & can set fire on the engine if sprayed when engine is very hot. Be cautioned!

I dont know about Toyota auto transmission set up. But i know that Peugeot auto trannies do have "kick-down cable". and if its wrongly adjusted or disconnected, the transmission will start giving you such symptom(s).

If you know you cant deal with all I mentioned above, then you have no option than to scan the car.

Ikenna.

If one of the Radiator cooling fans stopped working after your to visit to the A/C place, then the fellow that did your A/C must have touched or done something he shouldnt have. It could be that he mistakenly cut off power supply to the non-running fan or has connected something terrible that blew the fan motor.

First, how were the 2 radiator fans in your car working before the A/C incident? Do they start spinning as soon as you switch on the ignition & remain constantly on untill ignition is turned off? Or do they only start spinning after 5 or 10 mins of idling, after the engine is started? If the latter is the case, then the fans still run as factory. There factrory connections have nt been tampered with. But if they former is the case here; if they always start spinning as soon as you turn on the ignition, whether the engine is cold or not, then sorry, you have allowed the wicked rewires to sign death warrant for your car for you. Poor you!

Back to the issue. You can check that fan that have stopped running to know if its still ok, by disconnecting the wiring male plug to the fan & run direct connection from the two Battery terminals to the female connector/plug of the fan (+ & -). The fan would spin if the motor is still ok. If the fan spins, then the connection or source of the fan's trigger is the culprit not the fan.

When a thermostat in the cooling system is stuck closed, the fan maynot spin or function, since the fluid in cylinder walls are not flowing back to radiator, for the radiator sensor to sense the high temp of the fluid from engine & trigger on the fans to reduce or cool off the hot temp of the fluid. But it depends on your car's wiring system. Most Japanese vehicles cooling fans get their trigger from ECU/PCM via the function of CTS or temp sender/switch. But since one of the fans is working, then thermostat shouldnt be the culprit here, that is, if the fans are still connected as factory.

Your mechanic has no business with the electric radiator fan. Test the fan yourself like i explained above or get a good rewire (though i dont trust any of them here in Abuja) to test it for you. You will then take it from there. It could even be a relay issue. Good luck!

Ikenna.

gat2so: Pls scan the car and know where the fault is from....and check properly the fuel pressure from the fuel pump ....but the best is thing to do is the scanning ....

I would scan the car first, If I have the scanner. Otherwise, one doesnt have to run to workshops to pay & scan his car everytime the car starts misbehaving. There are simply checks one can do by himself which could point at the culprit & saves the person the money he would have wasted in scanning the car. If a fuse blow in a fuse box, you pay & scan the car to know if it was fuse that blown? If someone mistakenly unplug a sensor on engine & the car starts misbehaving, is it wise then to take the car for scanning, pay, before the scanner now show you an unplugged sensor you would have pushed back onto the sensor without scanning the car?

Troubleshooting a car should start with cost less diagnosis, before it gets to stage of spending, if necessary. Otherwise, purchase the scanner as a DIY tool in your house.

Ikenna.

The symptoms you described shows that the car hesitates on acceleration. Since the problem started, have you noticed any change in the mpg (Fuel consumption)? Does it emit black smoke from the exhaust tail when you accelerate? Does the car rough idle? Is the car's Air Flow meter still plugged in? In fact, have you checked to see if any or all the engine sensors wiring connectors are still well plugged in? What about engine vacuum lines? Have you checked for vacuum leak?

Simply, I would advice you go and scan the car. But it wouldnt hurt to check the basics yourself before going to through that money for scanning away. So, like I said, have you been experiencing poor fuel consumption since the problem started?

Ikenna.

oyinmio: @ ikenna . diesel is expensive and my vehicle consumes a lot. Also there aren't many diesel mechanics like we have for petrol. I ve only one mechanic who is exploiting me but i have faithful petrol mechanics.

Ok. That makes sense. About having only one or two clowns, sorry,mechanics, that claim to know how to fix diesels. But you should know that that your clown, again, sorry, mechanic, is part of your problem, not the vehicle. If He had known what he was doing, the car should still be make up for the high cost of diesel. It should still be economical compared to petrol counterpart. For example, an I4 petrol Peugeot 406 will give you about 30 mpg or less when driven in cities & 36 mpg on highway. But the I4 406 diesel will give more than 45 mpg when driven in the cities & about 57 mpg or more on highways. Now which is more economical, considering the cost of the litres of the two? Believe me, he was killing your vehicle, not fixing it.

My only fear with owning a diesel car in Nigeria is the parts availabilty & no mechanic knowledgeable enough in fixing diesels. Hence, the room for the exploitation from that crown. Not sorry for calling him that this time. So, I feel you bro!

Now, to your question, in your first post, yes its possible to convert diesel to petrol engine, but with conditions. The best would be to swap in a petrol carburretor engine in that engine bay & steer clear from EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) engine. Lets assume your car is 406. You maynot find a 406 carb petrol engine in Nigeria(because am not sure 406 ever had a carb engine) used parts market, but you can get an I4 carb petrol 605 engine. It will match. But you will have swap in engine mounts & possibly the I4 605 radiator. It will save you a lot of headache going for the carb engine, if you can find one. If you venture into EFI engine conversion here in Nigeria, then you have invited for yourself, with your own hand & money, the worst nightmare you would ever imagine, in your live.

If you going for EFI petrol engine, then the diesel engine harness/wires would be replaced with the petrol engine harness. The EFI petrol engine must have the complete factory sensors. The diesel fuel pump would be replcaed too with the petrol. Likewise the fuel tank will have to go too. The radiator may not match, so it may have to be replaced too. Then the almighty ECU/PCM (aka brainbox) must be replaced too with the petrol. But the main thing in the conversion, which usually are the nightmares to the owners who make such mistake, is the installation or proper connection of the engine harness to the sensors, grounds & to the ECUs. There is no guess work here. Any form of mistake here will either blow up the ecu, the engine will never start or it will never run properly. Such electric conversion must be done with the engine wiring diagram with full/complete engine harness. Trust me, 98% of rewires here do not know how to read diagrams. For me, even if I will go ahead with EFI petrol conversion, I must be the one to do the harness installation or swapping myself, with the wiring diagram. Otherwise, there wont be any conversion.

Is upto you. If you think you can deal with all stated above, is upto you, like i said. Its your call.

Ikenna.

If really the ECU has been fried, then, the ECU wont through any code, since its dead. But who knows, you might be that lucky with the ECU still intact. But how on Earth would someone made the battery terminal heads to touch the bonnet?

Ikenna.

Why would you want to convert to petrol engine? Isnt diesel engine better? Its more fuel efficient and durable. What is the reason for conversion?

Ikenna

babs2aroks: Thanks Ikenna...we are still on it...well Pricing issues and availablitiy have come up am insisitng on a 2.0L I4 engine...if nothing comes up I'll just X the deal since its a spare car

Hey! I wouldnt advice that you give up on getting a 2nd car. Me too, I have a 2nd car. The 2nd car is my daily driver. Its the best: having a reliable & economy car that you use or drive daily to work & then have a main car, mostly use on weekends. Besides, its always good to have a back up. Having a 2nd car will reduce the stress & strain on your first car & both will last long. You dont have to be a big man to own & maintain two cars. Am a living testimony to that.

Yes. I like your choice. The 2.0 I4 is much better than the 1.8 petrol 406. 1.8 petrol can be very sluggish, especially when you add load to the enine, like the A/C. The engine will be struggling to hard to pull the car, thereby consuming too much fuel to do so, undermining the purpose of choosing I4 in the first place: economy. whatever you do, do not buy the phase 1 I4 2.0 petrol 406. The phase 1 I4 406 petrols suffered from ECU issues. And most of them were oil burners. Stick to the phase 2 (late 99 - 2004 models). Without doubt, 406 is a good damn relaible car. Not because am a Peugeot fan, but it was designed to be a road handler. So far, it is the only car produced by Peugeot after the 504 & 505 production, that is very rugged, reliable, with a good road handling. Remember, it was the last Peugeot product designed by Pininfarina, an Italian company that designed Ferrari. Don't give up on it, because you wont regret it when you get one. But you need to get a good one. Like I said earlier, am working on getting mine too, when am ready. But mine would be a V6, because I love torquey engines. But who knows, I may end up with I4 2.0 or 2.2 petrol, afterall.

Ikenna.

babs2aroks: NEW DEVELOPMENT: after the dissappointing episode on this thread.

The Ball is now in frenchbase court
Am willing to wait if he can put a Mint 406 on the next ship down to Nigeria.So he Could Now Prove Himself

In that case, go through the 406 review via this link:

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/peugeot/406/

It will help you a lot to make a better choice, things to look out for, what to expect as it age & how to fix some peculiar issues with 406. The reviews show that 406 HDIs (Diesels) are good options. They are more reliable and durable than the petrol engines, and can get up to 50 mpg in the cities. They are also smokeless & quiet, unlike the old school diesels we used to know. They are also very torquey! Phase 2 406 2.2 HDI develops 314 Nm at 2k rpm. An interesting ride! Unfortunately, HDI parts availabilty in Nigeria is a big hindrance to owning a 406 phase 2 HDI in Nigeria, unless one is ready to source for the parts in UK or other parts of Europe.

These are the things i wanted to enlighten you on, while making your choice, when i asked for your email address. Anyway, goodluck with the purchase. Hope you will learn a lot from the review.

Ikenna.

bigx: Ok, would still search for it, You guys have scared me finally from our so-called electricians.
Ah, e be like I'd drive and come to Abuja for the scanning o!!!

Yes, you need to be scared of them (at least, most of them). The moment you open your bonnet for them, that moment your worst nightmare starts. Talking from experience.

The free scanning is going to be for those in Abuja only. Just kidding!

Ikenna.

bigx: Please where did you get the wiring diagram of your Car?
Ive managed to get the Haynes Manual for mine but the wiring is clearly poorly done and Id like to correct that.

Friends in USA, via an online forum, directed me to a site where i downloaded it free, together with the workshop manual. But one of them, took time, scanned & forwarded to me, the complete owners manual of the car.

Very soon, anyone that resides in Abuja can bring his or her vehicle for me to scan it FREE for you guys. I will let you guys know when. In a weeks time or so.

Ikenna.

ITbomb: .
That's why I love 404 Peugeot die, no time for all those silly components, just remove the carburretor wash, u r on ur way

Yes. Those where days when cars were damn reliable. Very soon, cars will start suffering from virus infections. Is a matter of time. The thing is: the newer a car, the less reliable; the newer a car, the more headache to fix when something goes wrong.

Ikenna.

It sounds like an egine mount issue. But the culptrit could be another thing that is auto trans or engine related. I really dont know much about auto transmission. But it wont hurt to check the engine mounts. But your description showed that it happens when there is load on the engine. This thing with Japanese cars! Anyway, am out of ideas. Just try the engine mounts. I hope someone else here have idea of what is the cause, since am not a Japamobile fan. Never experienced such in any of my French cars.

Ikenna.

The following below, if faulty, will make an EFI engine run very rich/overfuel:

1. AFM (Air Flow Meter)
2. MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor
3. MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor
4. IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor/thermistor
5. CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor)
6. FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
7. O2 (Oxygen) sensor
8. Vacuum Leak
9. Clogged/bent fuel return line
10. Etc.

Once any of the components above starts malfunctioning or failed, your car will start running very very rich or thirsty. Fastest way of diagnosing this issue is by scanning the car. Though, I can manually troubleshoot or test the components myself, without the scanning & detect the culprit. But if you cant do it, take it for scanning.

Ikenna.

If I were you, I wouldnt have wasted my money to do the wheel balancing. Wheel balancing has nothing to do with the issue with your car. Symptom of out of wheel balancing is when a car gradually vibrates, as the car gain top speed. It wouldnt vibrate on low speed. Your explanation showed that it vibrates only when you touch the brake pedal. Am I right?

Since you have eliminated the brake disk, what about the condition of the steering shaft & pinion (rack & pinion)? Even the tierod too? Does it vibrate when the car is idling, but in Drive gear?

Ikenna.

Martini101: The culprits for unecessary fuel consumptions are, 1) Very dirty fuel filter. 2) Weak fuel pump .3) Bad Spark plugs and wires. Try and check those since itz a Tokunbo car cos U dont know when d last owner changd them. My 20cent.

None of your suggestions has anything to do with a car running very thirsty or that degree of richness. Yes, they could cause rich mixture, but not to that degree of the Op car.

Ikenna.

@ Frenchbase,

I have been following this thread right from the begining, the day you started the thread. So, don't get me wrong. Am not here to kill your reputation. Yes, I called it crap because the reasons you gave are not good enough, if I were in Babs shoes. Put yourself in his shoes and see if that will go down well with you. It was a deal.You don't break deals in business. Doing that will kill your name, integrity or reputation & will scare away others from dealing with you in business. The result of breaking that deal has resulted to this. Even if it must be broken, it has to be mutual, so that each party shakes hands with each other and move on, not feeling offended. Am not a bussiness man, but I know the basics in business. Reputation, name or integrity is more important than profit. Always think of huge profits to make tomorrow or in future, and not today's profit. Thats how billionaires are made!

Am sorry, if i had sounded rude in my previous post. But those reasons would be annoying to whoever reads it. If you knew you were not the one to sell the car, you should stay out of the it (i.e. allowing your brother to do the selling). But you started the advert or posted the car for sale, only for another person to take over when the car arrived,meaning, he had his own plans for the car all those while you started this thread, making nonsence of this thread & people that indicated interest in the car on the thread. You need to sort this issue with your brother: who does the selling? If not you, then, dont bother to post the adverts of cars you ship, because it will result to this again. Its your business & integerity that is on the line here, not mine or babs.

Ikenna.

@Frenchbase,

All you are saying is crap. You own the car, not your brother. You decide the price & whom to sell to, not your brother. Too bad you dont have a reliable brother to do business with. Its a different thing when you dont have a buyer & leave it in your brother's hand to deal with. But not when you have met a buyer & agreed to sell to him. you now telling us that your brother's decision of whom to sell to is final? What goes around, comes around! Always have that in mind.

@ Babs,

It has happened. Consider the disappointment as a blessing in disguise. If I were you, I wouldnt pay for a car I didnot see with my korokoro eyes! Taliking from experience. I made that mistake when i purchased my 505 V6 last year which was shipped also from France. Uptil today, the car is barely driven (Serious injection issues). You can come & see the car in my place for yourself, since you stay in Abuja too. Like I earlier said, I must inspect & test drive a car before i pay. I sourced for the 505 V6 in Europe because its a rare car & not available in Nigeria for sale, & I also needed one in MINT condition. Am still wondering why you decided to source for the 406 outside Abuja, when there are hundreds of tokunbo 406 all over Abuja for sale. Even though some might be RHD to LHD converts, but you will definitely get many of them in MINT conditions from LHD euro contries. Unless price of 406s in Abuja here is the hindrance. If I have chance, I will assist in the hunt here in Abuja. But they are so many in all places in town where vehicles are sold. If you need help, all you need is ask. You will get a good one, a non-convert, a phase 2 406, in MINT condition here in Abuja. Stop looking elsewhere.

Ikenna.

Congrats!


Ikenna.

babs2aroks: Ikenna that's cool as soon as the deal is sealed and the car gets to abuja I'll surely like you in on it

I'll also like to give full detailed information from inspection to collection to delivery in pictures.I think this will also help the credibility of the dealer.I havnt still seen any of the dealers I got my cars from till date.

Frencbase thanks for updating the thread I hope the estimated time of arrival will still be as planned.I sent you an email.awaiting your reply

Ok. Would like to come & feed my eyes when you finally acquired one. My mobile number is 08052811236. My email address is iykefrankjackie@yahoo.co.uk Text me your email address, to be mailing you tips or what it takes to keep a Lion on the road. My office is at Zone 1.

Ikenna.

Hi Babs,

I also stay in Abuja, Area 1, precisely. If you eventually close the deal with the 406 2.0 from France, I would like to come & see the Lion for myself.

I actually have two Lions: 505 V6 5speed manual & 605 V6 5speed manual. My 505 V6 was impoted from France too & its my main car, though it has some injection issues which am yet to sort out. My 605 V6 is my daily driver. The body is no longer in MINT condition like my 505 V6, but its a damn good handler.

I like Peugeots. Am yet to drive a car that handles as good as they do. Like I noted earlier, 406 V6 3.0 5speed manual will be a replacement of my 605 V6, whenever am ready.

I like my 605 V6, but I love my 505 V6.

Ikenna.

Am sorry to be blunt here. I dont see this as an improvement or upgrade, rather, a downgrade. To start with, the moderators here discourage discussion here, probably because they are mostly dealers too. I have never seen a forum where discussions and sales are missed up. Here, only one subject is dedicated to discussion, rather than the other way round. Ever wondered why auto experts dont frequent here anymore. Besides, no notification, difficult to see and read, etc. Well, you can do whatever you want with it. After all, its your site anyway.

Ikenna.

Poster,

This thread has proven that almost all Peugeot 406 imported by car dealers here are from UK (RHD). If I were you, I would make plans on how visit the Cotonu myself & specifically ask for 406 5 speed manual from other Euro countries, other than UK.

But you cant just be requesting for any 406 manual trans. 406 has various of I4 engines, 1.8 Petrol. 2.0 petrol, & HDI (Diesel) engines. In Uk, the HDI engines sold more than the petrol engines. HDI engines are very economical in fuel, about 50 mpg in motorways & 45 mpg in cities, unlike the petrol that gets about 35 mpg in the city & 38 mpg in motorways. Unfortunately, parts availability & technical know how of our mechanics in Peugeot Diesels will pose a big problem for a 406 HDI user in Nigeria.

We also have a 406 3.0 litre V6 (series 2), which develops 211 bhp at 5600 rpm. This is a car I am looking forward to own next, whenever i decide to change my second car, 605 V6. And it must be a manual transmission too.

So, it all depends on the engine type you want, which you will get manual trans on any of them. Check 406 review online, to determine the the engine you would want.

Ikenna.

Fellow, there is a difference btw street race v proper authorized race. What has been going on in front Ceddi Plaza & Ground Square road is street race, which is illegal. We are talking about legal race here, if govt provides the race track & authorizes it. Car race can be a sport, an entertainment, recreational activity & money making venture, such as we have movie & music industry. So get out of that your myopic reasoning. If you are not a car enthusiast, stay out of this thread!

Ikenna.