₦airaland Forum

yungboss: well said brother ik, the quattro is AWD V8, the FWD A8 is V6...
FWD+V8=FALSE (maybe in future)
AWD+V8=TRUE
RWD+V8=TRUE
FWD+V6=TRUE
RWD+V6=TRUE
AWD+V6=TRUE

Yungboss,

The thing is, Audi A8 generation FWD had V6 & V8. But they later realised the mistake & dropped the FWD V8 & continued with AWD V8 till date. I guess they couldnt break the record well, after all.

Ikenna.

blink182: So all the suvs everywhere are v6?

Car is not SUV, dont get confused.

Meanwhile, the guy that said that Audi A8 FWD had V8 as well was right. I just checked & confirmed. My mistake then. That means Audi has break the record.

Ikenna.

Fhemmmy: No matter what ride you driving, when you continually use it on a and road, you will have to change the shocks on a regular basis. . . and as per power, no one could compare a V4 to a V6 . . V4 is a crawler but cheaper to maintain, while a V6 is a machine but you will pay for the speed at the pump.

I do not agree. Yes, Struts are wearable parts. But some last longer than you could imagine than the other brands, irrespective of the environment its used on.

Toyota struts are generally known for frequent failures on monthly basis. Sometimes, on bi-weekly basis. Its a big time flaw of all Toyota products so far. That is, its a peculiar problem to Toyota.

Not trying to be biased here, but Peugeots are known for durable struts/shock absorbers. In fact, they are the only car manufacturer that Patented their strut. Why? First, the outstanding quality(durability). Second, only Peugeot strut are rebuildable.

There are other car brands that use durable struts on their products, but Toyota is simply not one of them.

Ikenna.

[quote author=femionasan]

Denn:

Dear Ik....
i have closely followed your posts and i know fully well that you wont be an easy convert, but i will still preach my gospel.

if quoting personal reviews were valid means or reference in vehicle comparison, i could bombard this page with so much more.

the simple fact remains.....your lion is more of comfort than speed and no matter how you look at it, BMWs are defined by performance. BMWs are designed for efficient handling under severe track conditions. The french lion is no match.

see this link where BMW came tops in a comparison between AUDI, BMW and PEUGEOT

http://www.germancarforum.com/community/threads/auto-express-audi-a5-3-0tdi-vs-bmw-335d-vs-peugeot-407-hdi.16992/

like the apostles, i will continue to preach the BMW gospel to you hoping you will come to the light soon. (*winks*)



Dear Ik....
i have closely followed your posts and i know fully well that you wont be an easy convert, but i will still preach my gospel.

if quoting personal reviews were valid means or reference in vehicle comparison, i could bombard this page with so much more.

the simple fact remains.....your lion is more of comfort than speed and no matter how you look at it, BMWs are defined by performance. BMWs are designed for efficient handling under severe track conditions. The french lion is no match.

see this link where BMW came tops in a comparison between AUDI, BMW and PEUGEOT

http://www.germancarforum.com/community/threads/auto-express-audi-a5-3-0tdi-vs-bmw-335d-vs-peugeot-407-hdi.16992/

like the apostles, i will continue to preach the BMW gospel to you hoping you will come to the light soon. (*winks*)

I dont recall ever reading that Lion is the fastest animal on Earth. But the STRENGTH of the animal, LION, can never be compared to other animals. Thats what Peugeot brings out in all their products, especially, their earlier RWD productions. Even 406, one of their newer productions, but with FWD configuration, still retained the Lion's strength. Ever taken out time to check out their looks? Even 406 has been nicknamed "FOX". Ever wondered why that name? STRENGHT! Also, we all know how rugged a Lion is when pursuing its anu ori-ori (prey). Thats what these Peugeots (504,505 & 406) do when on our death traps called highways.

Strength of a Lion is not how fast it can run, but the consistency, sustainance or maintenance of the speed its doing. Thats where my BABY, Peugeot 505 V6 5speed manual trans, comes in. How? The engine torque. Its a damn torquey engine. Why? Because its one of the most powerful short stroke engine ever produced (PRV). The V6 engine in 505 V6 is known as PRV (Peugeot, Renault & Volvo). The engine was co-produced by the 3 companies. Thats why its rugged bullet-proof short stroke V6 engine ever produced, considering the 3 companies that came together in Douvrin - France & produced the engine from the '70s to late '90s. One of the most relaible V6 ever produced. And being a torquey engine, when mounted in a RWD car, makes it an awesome car to drive, let alone when in the mood for speed.

Horse power doesnt win car race. Not all. No matter how fast you think your car goes or how many hp your engine develops at the highest rpm, it isnt gonna win race for you. What wins race for you is how torquey your engine is, how good you are with sharp clutch & throttle applications, how good you are with the steering wheel & finally, how damn good the car handles on top speed.

I am a die-hard RWD fellow. Even my daily driver, Peugeot 605 V6 5p manual, couldnt convert me to FWD fan. I still hate that in that car. I once said that my 2nd car would be a BMW, since its the only RWD cars, nowadays, that made sense, aside Benz. But after reading the reviews of how unreliable the newer BMWs are, I passed.

Oh! For the long throat, aint never gonna sell my BABY, 505 V6. It has come to stay, for good. I can only add another car, when I decide to get rid of the 605. I have one in mind already. So, dream on guys! Try harder with your conversion mission!

Ikenna.

Last time I discussed with him (about a week ago), he was very much fine.

Ikenna.

Denn: Dear Ikenna, I look forward to that day too when i will be able to show you that lions are now extinct on Nigerian roads. In order not to 'over-embarass' your old lion, i will be coming in a simple BMW 330i E46. After the spanking (i prefer not to call it a race since its a clear win for me), i will be all ready to convert you to the BMW religion. lol....on a serious note, we can do this in Nigeria. thumbs up all

Read the excerpts of reviews of Peugeot 505 V6 owners from Carsurvey forum.



1988 PEUGEOT 505 STX 2.8 V6 FROM NORTH AMERICA


Year of manufacture: 1988

First year of ownership: 1999

Most recent year of ownership: 2001


Engine and transmission: 2.8 V6 Manual


Performance marks: 8 / 10

Reliability marks: 7 / 10


Comfort marks: 10 / 10


Running Costs (higher is cheaper): 8 / 10


Overall marks (average of all marks): 8.3 / 10


Distance when acquired: 98000 miles

Most recent distance: 132000 miles

Previous car: Alfa Romeo 164L

Summary: If it wears out I will get another one




Faults:

Alternator failed.

Seat heat switches stuck on.

Water pump started leaking, and normal maintenance.




General Comments:

This is the best driving car I have ever had. I like it better then the Alfa ut replaced and it is much more fun to drive then my new Mercedes Benz E-class. I use it as my daily driver and will be bummed out when it wears out. The most comfortable seats in the world bar none. I installed a elite suspension kit from Europe and it is a Handler. I could go on forever, a neat car.





Still Want to argue?






1989 PEUGEOT 505 V6 2.8 V6 FROM UK AND IRELAND


Year of manufacture: 1989

First year of ownership: 2000


Most recent year of ownership: 2001


Engine and transmission: 2.8 V6 Automatic


Performance marks: 8 / 10


Reliability marks: 7 / 10


Comfort marks: 10 / 10


Dealer Service marks: 1 / 10


Running Costs (higher is cheaper): 7 / 10


Overall marks (average of all marks): 6.6 / 10

Distance when acquired: 80000 miles

Most recent distance: 90000 miles

Previous car: BMW 535i

Summary: Great underrated performance car. Well specced




Faults:

4 shocks replaced.

Starter.

Fuel injection problems.

Many electrical problems.

Battery.




General Comments:

Superb driver, great performance from the 2.8 V6, great handling (better than my other car - a BMW 535).

Comfortable, well specced (leather, A/C, ABS and electric everything). Great seats!

On the down side, poor wipers, high-ish road noise, extremely hard to get parts or info for maintenance.






I rest my case.

Ikenna.

chiebube: Oga Ikenna!, Ikenna!!, Ikenna!!!

How many times did I call u?

Pls be more cautious when u are responding to other people's suggestions especially when they proffer suggestions to people's car problems.

U can diplomatically tell them its wrong instead of making them look like 'MUMU'.

Pls I hope u won't be offended.

Ikenna! Ikenna!!! Ikenna!!!

Next time I will ask ur primary school teacher to beat u.

But on a serious note, its not funny.

Pls take note

I read that my post again & truely sensed arrogance.

To make it up for you guys, I will stay out of the forum for a while. Others need to make their input too. Thats how everyone learns.

I sincerly apologise.

Ikenna.

toba: its 'us' that needs to improve our knowledge about cars so as not to fall prey.

My car had incorrect gear ratio and a gear box specialist told me to change my spark plugs. I was like what rubbish is this? i left him without changing my plugs till today and my car is very fine after changing a sensor myself

Lol!

Ikenna.

Sienna With Hard Start In The Morning. by jothan(m): 12:19pm On Jun 14




Dear Auto Gurus, I bought a 2001 Toyota Siena (automatic transmission) few months ago and since then I have discovered the car has a peculiar problem. I observed that whenever the vehicle's engine is cold and you start the car and for whatever reason, you turn off the engine, the car will not be able to start except you leave it for a long while like 30mins before it will be able to start again.

Again, if you drive the car to the office which takes about 20mins, (by this time the engine is hot) you can turn off/start the car as many times as you wish and the car will respond. i have changed cold start, changed the fuel pump and stil to no avail.

Pls, what do i do.


See what I meant.

Ikenna.

https://www.nairaland.com/962678/car-wont-start-when-engine

Ikenna.

Please Moderators, we need you guys to move this thread to the new cartalk section. Someone needs it there. Besides, it will be a waste here. Please!

Ikenna.

Bigx,

You have made this a reality, a discussion section. Thanks.

Ikenna.

A similar thread has treated this issue in Autos section today. Find the thread there & have the solution to your Van's issue. Or you can check my last post in my profile, it will direct you to the thread.

Ikenna.

Martini101: @OP. THIS IS the exact solution to ur problem.
Kakatazz(m):@OP you have been told the truth.Mine also had similar issue anout 2years back and I changed the COLD START SWITCH and ever sinve its been wonderful.Infact I travel with the ride alot.I bought it for about 1,500 Naira then it should not be more than 2,000 tops.Just go get a honest mechanic to help you check LADIPO auto market thats if u reside in Lagos.


This is what i meant by the exact thing my car did.
I had similar problem,Mine is when i drive the car for a while and switch off the ignition, it would not start until 15 to 20 mins later. I couldn't switch off engine at filling stations and it finally killed my battery. The solution is the ignition coil, my rewire told me the ignition coil was damaged and changing it solved the issue. Try that and get back to me. Scanning it was a bit of problem because the scanning port was not the regular OBD2 rectangular socket, it has a round socket similar to OBD1 so to get an adapter for it was difficult.

Oga Ikenna. No disrespect but we re talking from experience here.

None taken.

Still, you are wrong. Experience? So you are basing your knowledge on fixing an EFI engine with the above posts you quoted? Bro, you still have a lot of catch up to do.

Don't get yourself confused with how a Fuel Carbureted engine works and how EFI engine also work. A fuel carbureted engine vehicle, with black smoke issue, can be attributed to a carburetor issue. Servicing, washing, or replacing the carburetor is all that will be needed to fix the problem. A black smoke issue with an EFI vehicle can be caused by so many sensors or components, if faulty, even a problem with harness (ECU - Engine wires) will give the same symptom. Both (Carburetor & EFI) with black smoke issues, means that they are suffering from improper air/fuel mixtures. But the method of diagnosis of both are not the same. In EFI, there is no guess work, unlike the carburetor. Every sensor, every engine component, every connection (harness) must be 100% according to factory, for the engine to work efficiently, as designed.

You may have a black smoke problem with your EFI car today, you diagnosed and found oxygen sensor as the culprit. You replace the o2 sensor and the black smoke stops. And the problem (black smoke) starts again, maybe, the upper week. So because you have experienced it before, you just quickly dash to the market and buy the o2 sensor because it must be the culprit? You still dey far guy! If the car CTS fails, it will cause the same black smoke. If AFM (Air Flow meter) fails, it will give the same black smoke symptom. If the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) fails, it will cause the same black smoke. If IAT (Intake Air Temperature sensor) fails, it will cause the same symptom. If the engine suddenly develops vacuum leak, you will get the same black smoke. I can go on and on.

My point? A lot of EFI components, if malfunctioning, can give a similar symptom. Thats why the OBD II is there to eliminate and narrow it down for you, the culprit. Otherwise, it means you will have to test individually, all components that can give such symptom when failed, to determine one that is faulty.

Martini, read my earlier post carefully. I never disregareded the posts that suggested the cold start injectors as the culprit. But they failed to realised that the component is one of the EFI engine components that can give such symptom, if failed. A rich mixture can cause a hard start. A lean mixture can do the same. A failing Ignition module, when its hot, can cause a hard start (though, that's not the issue here). A lot of EFI components, other than the cold start injector, can cause hard start. The problem could actually be the cold start injector, but it needs to be tested to be sure its the culprit before throwing money away in replacing what isnt faulty. Unless you have a donor car or where you can borrow one for testing, you can swap in the borrowed one to know if there will be any change or an improvement.

You make it sound as if all EFI vehicles have that cold start injector. Mine doesnt. The CTS in mine does a dual function.i.e. it also does the work of the cold start injector. Just like not every EFI vehicle have camshaft position sensor. The CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) in such vehicles also do the work of the Camshaft sensor (dual function).

like I always say, try and understand the working of an EFI engine. Only that can help you in diagnosing one.

Ikenna.

Nigerian car owners will never stop to amaze me. Making suggestions without understanding the issue with Op car. One even suggested the removal of the engine Cooling system thermostat, which has nothing to do with the hard starting issue with the vehicle been discussed. I wonder.

Meerkat,

The symptom, as you described, your car is giving means is having improper air/fuel mixture. Usually, such symptom is caused by flooding (Too much fuel injected into the combustion chambers with less air to match the mixture and that will flood the spark plugs, preventing them from sparking/igniting the mixed compressed air/fuel and creating power stroke (explosion) in the chambers. Yes, it starts after some minutes of non-clanking because the flooded fuel has dried up in the cylinders or has washed down the cylinders and found itself in the crankcase, which will be diluting the engine oil in the sump. If you doubt me, pull out your oil dipstick and smell it (the oil). Come back and tell us if it smells fuel or if your oil guage has gone up or risen beyond the last level you left it.

It could also be a wrong connection or loose connection between the CTS, cold-start injector & the ECU. The symptom sounds like purely an injection issue. The people that have suggested the cold-start injector replacement are on the right track. But you still need to ascertain if the cold start injector is really faulty or the culprit. You need to be sure that the signal from the cold start injector or the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is not distorted somewhere between (the harness).

Please, leave your Injectors alone, they have nothing to do with the issue. Rather, you can check the wire from the ECU to the Injectors, to be sure the injectors are getting ground pulse from the ECU, when the car refuses to start. If the injectors are not getting the ground pulse from the ECU, check the wire continuity and also the ECU wiring connector for corrosion.

Will get back to you when am through with work. Remove the thermostat Indeed!

Ikenna.

Wise Bukoye: All been said, the government system in Nigeria is in complete disarray. I just registered my new car directly today (Friday) at the licensing office for a whopping sum of 40K. I qouted the 8.4K I heard and the officer said I could try elsewhere, which I did to no avail. In fact, I added 1.5K for the stress of getting the figures I reguested. Please, all these senators reductions are not real, except if they implement them next week. The government is confused. May be we wasted our votes last year? Lets be wise next time!

Well, all I can say to you is " I told you so". Sorry bro.

Ikenna.

Toyota Matrix has the same platform with Corolla. Only difference is that you are sitting in Matrix. The same engine, and I belive the same electrics too. But I dont know how available the exterior body parts are. Though, the two cars look similar, but not identical. Matrix is Toyota's product produced solely for North American market, i believe. The Matrix is more like a sporty Corolla. I dont know how reliable and durable they are. You will have read and decide for yourself. Go through the link below. Its a previous and present owners review of Matix world wide, from 2002 to 2009 models. Enjoy!

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/matrix/


Hope that helps?

Ikenna.

Check the two links below and decide which one to go for, yourself. The links are reviews of both cars from previous & present owners.

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/mercedes-benz/c-class/2003/

http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/honda/accord/2005/

Ikenna.

jomodupri: Oga Ikenna, your attention is needed here please.

https://www.nairaland.com/937564/help-car-consuming-too-much/2

I have attended to it. Hope you find my suggestion useful.

Ikenna.

jomodupri: Sorry getting back to the house this late, I had a rather hectic day at the office yesterday.

I checked the vacuum lines and the followings are my observation:

1.0) The Intake Air Resonator is missing.

2.0) The cap on the EGR Control Solenoid Valve is also missing.

3.0) The hose numbered 24 to EGR Vacuum Control Valve had a tiny cut (this has been replaced)

4.0) The inlet to the EGR Vacuum Control Valve is broken off, hence not connection between the EGR Vacuum Control Valve and EGR Control Solenoid Valve.

Please what are the implication of all these factor (1 - 4) on the fuel economy and well-being of the car.

My panel beater also said my catalytic converter and muffler are bad.

Thanks all in advance for your wonderful contributions.

Your car was seriously abused by the previous owner or you the present owner. Even though those evils were meted out on that engine by a rewire or mechanic, but the owner, at the time those things were done, allowed them to take place. I bet no man would allow another fellow man to handle his babe or wife anyhow, not to think of "servicing" her for you in the first place. Thats how one should handle or treat his vehicle. If you love your car or like it very much and treat it as such, no harm would come to that car, no matter how mechanic or rewire tries to convince you to do some risky modifications on it. Thats why I always tell people not to buy a car that doesnt look attractive & appealing to you, no matter how reliable the car would be. If you do not like how a car looks or how it handles, walk away. Get one you always admire that you can afford to buy and maintain. It will make you treat her like a BABY and that would also make you to do every thing in your power to keep it original and in good shape, till it starts falling apart, after many years of ownernership. Thats how it works.

Unfortunately, none of my cars have EGR valve, even though they are both EFI. The little knowledge i have in troubleshooting and fixing cars were aquired while fixing my cars myself (DIY). So I know little about the EGR thing. But i know that it fine tunes air/fuel mixture, together with o2 sensor and CTS. Any abuse on these sensors or faulty of any will result rich mixture (excessive fueling).

From the list you posted, its obvious that the culprits to your car's injection issues are vacuum leak and non functioning EGR valve system.

The way out for you is to look for another Honda accord of the same model, with the same engine model. Open the bonnets of both cars and compare. Look for missing components and connections on the borrowed car. If possible, take pictures of the missing components & connections on the other car and look for those components in auto spare markets. The pics you have taken would also help you to properly install and connect the components. It will direct you where each vacuum line should go to or attached to.

I hope that helps.

Ikenna.

I concur.

Ikenna

It just occured to me that one can actually get all the 406 V6 engine parts here in Nigeria, since 607 V6 were also sold new in Nigeria, I believe. You can get them from various Authorized Peugeot Dealership in Nigeria.

Ikenna.

@ OP

Or, you can as well go through my posts one after the other. You will find what is wrong with your car & how to get it fixed there.

Ikenna.

gulfer: There are scanner being sold on NL, scanning at workshops can be very expensive in the long run but a small investment of +/- N20,000: 00 on something considered valuable should be taken seriously by every car owner especially from 1996 up in order to avoid the headache that might come with trial and error system of diagnostic and resolution practiced in Lagos nay Nigeria! One question is are you serious about this 100liters for a hundred kilometer, because my own vehicle; a SUV-V6 consumes 68liters for about 563.15km (350miles)? If true, the vehicle may be long gone from return to the normal consumption.I seriously feel your pain.

But Gulfer, how you dey add salt to injury na? See how bros come vex. Lol!

But bros e! Is like your car has set a record in the Guinness Book of Records for averaging 2 MPG. Lol! Abeg, na filling station or Refinery you carry under that your car? Because it cant be fuel tank anymore. Lol!

Honestly, I couldnt stop laughing since afternoon I saw this thread & with the way Gulfer helped the OP in analysing his situation for him. But the analysis didnt go down well with the OP, hence, the " Haba! Don't write off my car just yet. " See expression!

I still cant imagine how you have been driving the car in that condition, considering the amount of thick black smoke it must have been emitting from the exhaust tail. Because with that kind of consumption, definitely, must be giving black smoke symptom.

Like others have advised, scan the car first & you take it from there (even though I can diagnose & fix the excessive fueling issue without scanning it, if it was my car). Good luck.

I still dey laugh o!

Ikenna.

mybad: Haba!
Let the scanner do a definitive diagnosis.
Don't write off my car just yet.

Lol!

Ikenna.

globalfanz: This topic is quite timely. But V6 seem to be availlable in COUPE only. I dont like 2 door car. Have done some search but cant get it in saloon version.

Wrong. There are so many Saloon 406 V6 phase 2 out there. Check the link I earlier posted.

Ikenna.

sultaan: In a bad system people get use to bad things because they don't know better.

In the US a drivers licence and a plate costs $20 each.

They can make both for less in Naija, but no official is going to become multimillionaire that way.

They say 2 stamped piece of metal costs N7500, drivers will upgrade license when its time to renew, plates are the same, just collect more information when you renew license.

A piece of metal does not tie a car to its owner better than another piece of metal it is the use of existing information on owner

This is the only post that made sense to me here.

As far as am concerned, this is bad news. Please biko nu, why not a compulsory Licence renewals (within a given period) & use that avenue to get whatever info they need to create a central data of vehicle owners in Nigeria, which wouldnt have cost more than 2k. Last time I checked, renewal of vehicle Licence was N1,850, which was last month (April) when i renewed mine. Correct me if am wrong. The same form i will now fill to get the new plate (to get all info about me), would have been given to me to fill when i renewed my Licence last month. Why must I now pay N8,400 to fill that form? Because they made us understand that the exercise is just to get our data. So, the new plate number is secondary then. Just a means to get the info from us.

The problem is us, not the govt. Why? Because of our lifestyle. We are always ready to adjust, which encourages corruption. Of course, the politicians know that & they use that undue advantage to deal with us.

They claim the new plate project is to provide security. Now, so i now have to pay govt to provide security? Is like Nigerians have all forgotten the functions of govt. Even with all the taxes & levies, Nigerians will still pay the govt, with all the puplic funds at their mercy, to provide security? What a mistake Nigerians made in last year elections!

Well, we are all entitled to our opinions. Its really funny seeing people jubiliating on the new plate price. I keep wondering where they must arrived from? From Jupiter, I guess? Because am sure that even someone from Mexico would know that as far as Nigeria is concerned, you will never get the plate at that N8,400 they want to sell it. If you are ever get the new plate at that new price, come back to this thread & correct me.

Senators, you disappointed me!

Ikenna.

[quote author=Cruise-z]Ikenna are you resident in Lagos, Nigeria? Can you help with fixing a new thermostat, restore radiator fan connection, check cts and other things you outlined here?[/quote]Would have loved to help. But I reside in Abuja, as my signature indicates.

Ikenna.

bigx: I've always seen coolant in the car manual but I always thought it was a cooler way of saying water, lol . Can I get it at any Total filling station? And how much does it cost usually?

Yes, you can get it from any TOTAL filing station. The last time I bought it, it was N400 a bottle (1 litre).

Ikenna.

bigx: You guys hit it straight, Honestly we should push for an Auto Enthusiasts/Problems Sub-Forum where all these helpful posts would be moved to as you guys have really saved us a lot of money & headache from mechanics.

I just checked this evening and the issue was as you said, a leakage in my radiator, the heat shield was not properly fixed the last time the mechanic touched the car so it probably, with vibrations from the road, tore the radiator slightly,

I think I would also flush the radiator as cretin said as the fluid inside looks really rusty.

@Ikenna I think the fan still turns normally (same sound)

Thank You all so much.

The fluid looks rusty because you use water. Flush the rusty colored water out & refill with coolant. Even if you cant afford to fill the cooling system with coolant only, make it 70:30 (coolant -70% & water 30 %). Coolant acts as a lubricant to water pump & prevents the rusty color of fluid in the system. The rusty colored fluid in the radiator, will at some point, clogg radiator & corrode engine walls, which would blow up the head gasket when that happens. The use of water only in cooling system kills both the engine & its cooling system. So if your 307 cooling system takes 5 litres of fluid to refill, buy 3 litres of coolant (probably TOTAL cooalnt) & top up with 2 litres of water, while refilling after flushing. Once you refill with coolant, you will never see the rusty colored fluid in the system again & your water pump will last longer, & finally, no corrosion of engine walls.

Ikenna.

@bigx

I forgot to ask. How fast is the spinning of the fan since you reconnected the fan to factory? Is the speed the same with when it was running constantly?

Why am asking is because if the fan is not fast enough, it wont push or suck heat out of the radiator. Hope no one has tampered with the fan relay.

Ikenna.