₦airaland Forum

pak:
Hi Ikenna,

How did you know the ECU was faulty ?

Does a Diagnostic tool bring that up ?

My car has been consuming fuel like crazy for a while and with this fuel price increase/scarcity its driving me nuts.

I did a scan while back though I cant remember the codes, the mech said nothing related to the fuel consumption came up.

I mean it presently does 224Km on 1/2 tank (33.5l) thats like 6.8km/l compared to your ride that did over 14km/l.


I just need an urgent solution else might consider selling


I use a honda accord '03 (EOD).

and where r u based bros ? (sounds as though you'r based in the north)

How did you know the ECU was faulty? Because of the symptom the car was having which made me to manually test the ECU and confirmed my fear. It wasnt only because of the overfueling, but other signs. Its a long story. So dont bother replacing your ECU because the car is running rich. A faulty sensor would make your car run rich, which most times are the cause. A vacuum leak would make your car very thirsty. An under inflated tire would do the same. Use of over-sized non-recommended factory sized tyre would make your car very thirsty.

ECU should be the last thing you look at when your car is running very rich. If any of the engine sensors is sending wrong signal to ECU, it would disrupt the proper working of the ECU which would make it sometimes to be guessing, thereby disrupting the normal quantity of fuel and air that should go into the combustion chambers via injectors and throttle body, mixing the air & fuel in intake manifold before entering the combustion chambers via intake valves.

What are the error codes you got when it was scanned (believing you have scanned the car)? Are all your oxygen sensors still attached to the 3 catalytic converters (am very sure that EOD V6 has 3 caty converters, while I4 EOD has only 1 Caty converter)? Is the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) plug still well plugged in the sensor? Whats the value of the cts when engine cold & hot? Though, if the cts is faulty, you would be experiencing hard starting when engine cold or hard starting when engine hot, together with overfueling.

Scanning the car wont tell you if the ECU is faulty, I believe /not sure. But you have to eliminate all the components that can make engines overfuel before you go towards ECU.

Ikenna.

@ Somatic,

Am not sure PAN 504 2000 GLS had the same engine of 504 GL (XN1). To the best of my knowledge, only 504 GL & TI had 1971 cc (2.0) fuel carburreted engine. Though, for some countries, their TIs had ZEJ, 1995 cc fuel injected engines. I believe the later PAN 504s had the same engines with the later PAN 505s which is XN1A (not sure though).

The fact remains that you cant compare 504 GL with other models of 504, aside TI. Other models of 504s didnt have independent rear differential/axle. The thickness of pan of 504 GL differed from other models of 504. Others body are lighter. The unique balance of GL when on high speed was lacking in other models. The existence of cambers at the rear of GLs which others lacked, the unique torque tube & propeller shaft of GL, the 4 wheel disc brakes of GL which other models lacked, the old model crankshaft with holes on the crankshaft to ensure full lubrication of crank journals which other models lacked, etc. I can go on & on. The truth is, have you ever wondered why all our fathers that had the GL prefered them driving them to other cars of theirs & wouldnt let go of them? They realised what an indestructible, impressive & powerful Lions they had. So, dont ever compare foreign assembled 504 GL with PAN 504, even the PAN 504 GL. The difference was so wide.

Ikenna.

I feel you Dara. Just as i feel everytime i travel to Enugu & Anambra from Abuja, where i grew up. The truth is, our way of live prevent depression from our lives. Yes, people outside would hiss at our lifestyle, but Nigeria is very unique. The manner people abuse themselves on Nigeria road, the way Nigerians analyse the state of the economy & politicians, the crazy manner people drive, etc, it makes us happy, directly & indirectly. Nigeria is a free world! Take it from me, LIFE IS SWEET in Nigeria, notwithstanding all we are going through in the hands of our leaders, most of them.

Ikenna.

Dara, I promise you, even in the midst of hardship in Nigeria, you will enjoy your stay in Nigeria. We have a unique way of live that makes us, Nigerians, happy. You will find out when you arrive. Its not that bad like you hear from people.

Ikenna.

I can understand what you mean by "different stories". Anyway, I like your type that know what they want and work towards it.
Goodluck!

Ikenna.

Since you prefer to get it issued to you when you are in the country, then you have nothing to worry about. It would be easier and faster for you to get it at Ekiti than Lagos. There would be a lot of delays if you apply through Lagos for the Driver's Licence. At Ekiti, I believe all you need to do is to provide your passports, fill a form (& maybe prove to them that you can drive) and you have your Licence within a week. But Lagos will take months. Are you still confuse?

Ikenna.

euromilion:
Man 9ja is a different planet from other part of the world,
u must know pple to get things done in that part of the world,
if u'v nt anybody there either friend or relative,man u better stil.

it's unlike this part of the world,where evrybody knows where evry offices
are and evry thing has fixed price and procedures.

9ja is not like this, I could call it animal kingdom,if I could ,but I can,t .

I better hide myself b/4 they all rush to stone me to death here.I bet u they are all comin

What the Hell is that suppose to mean? This is the greatest crap i have ever heard. Things maynot be going well as it should be here in Nigeria, but that dosent mean we have all lost it down here. You cant stay there and be telling us how it is here. Your post is very upsetting.

Ikenna.

That depends.

Do you want to get it before you enter the country or want it as soon as you enter?

Yes, you can get it without being in the country & can get it when in the country. For us here in Abuja, Federal Capital Territory, you must have to be physically present to get a driver's Licence of FCT. The FRSC (Federal Road Safety Commission) will have to physically capture your data, if you know what i mean. But if you stay in Abuja and prefer to have driver's Licence of other states of the country, all need to provide is two passport of yours & some information that will appear on the Licence. I renewed mine here in Abuja 2 years ago. I went through the process i mentioned above.

If you ask me, I would advice you to wait till you enter the country to get it. If you want to do it in Abuja, you will undergo driving test before the Licence is issued to you. To me, i dont see any problem with that, as long as you know how to drive. Its what i would do, if I were you. But if you still prefer to get it before you enter the country, i can help you get it. Its your call .

Ikenna.

You dont need to get back to just me. Others here might know the best solution to fix the problem when identified, because i donot know it all, for am still a learner too. First, post the results of your findings & we will all take it from there. Goodluck! (not that of your President o! )

Ikenna.

The reliable, durable, impressive & rugged nature of 504 GL was what led to the 505 production. Peugeot realised how good 504 GL was and decided to redesgned the body only. It had all the 504 GL mechanicals (except that some 505 mechanicals parts were longer in length 505 like the rear camber, drive shafts, etc). 505 was an improvement on 504, but was not better than 504 GL. The foreign assembled 504 GLs had the best comfortable front seats better than the 505s. Even when i converted the 504 GL to 505, i kept the 504 front seats in our village. Just couldnt let go. Very comfy! The later 504 GLs assembled in Nigeria had the 505 front seats. Though ok, but not as comfy as the foreign 504 GLs.

Ikenna.

Your problem is not the spark plugs. Dont waste your money replacing them. I had a similar problem before. After troubleshooting, i found the wiring to the ignition coil relay as the culprit. The wrong wiring connection to the ignition relay was disrupting the volts going to the ignition coil from the relay & the relay would not send high volts/current to the distributor which would distribute the low current to the spark plugs, making the spark plugs not to produce enough sparks to burn air/fuel mixture in combustion chambers. Immediately i addressed the wrong connection, the peppering of the eye stopped, likewise the dilution of engine oil in the oil pan by fuel that was washing down the cylinders entering the crankcase stopped as well.

To be sure that what i mentioned above is the issue with your car, first, pull out the engine oil dipstick & smell it. If it smells fuel, then you have your answer. If the oil has overguaged & has lost it thickness or viscosity (not sticky anymore), there is your answer then.

Meanwhile, like Siena suggested, it could be your exhaust. Dont rule it out yet. I didnt mention it earlier because I assumed you must have checked that before posting.

Ikenna.

If I were to buy a 15 or 20 yr old car, I would go for a well maintained high mileaged: mileage that has exceeded 150,000km. If I were to buy a 5 yr old car, I would choose a low mileaged one.

The truth is, the proper engine lifespan, especially the powerful engine, starts after 100,000km. A 15 or 50 yr old car with low mileage should be avoided. There is more wear & tear on a car engine used only in city. And there is less wear & tear on engine used mostly on motorway/highway, as long as the running-in period was adhered to when new.

Its all about the car History, how religiously the car was maintained. Well maintained Vehicle engines that run most of their life on highways exceed 600,000 kilometers without failure or rebuild. I have seen car with 800,000 kilometers with the original engine, simply because it spent years running on highways and spent less in city driving. Travelling with your car, at least, once in a while, helps it in so many ways. So dont just check the cost of fuel alone, put the longevity of the engine into consideration as well

Ikenna.

Hi all,

Please i need Peugeot 505 V6 Injection ECU urgently. The part no. is: Bosch 0 280 001 507 (JETRONIC). If you also have ECU part no.: Bosch 0 280 001 506 (JETRONIC), it will work as well. Thanks.

Ikenna.

Unburnt fuel, that what it means. Simply put, what is peppering your eye is the unburnt fuel. It could be that the spark plugs are not getting enough high current to spark the normal quantity of fuel that go into the combustion chambers or that the spark plugs are not burning the fuel completely because of excess fuel that go into the combsution chambers. Either of the two.

Ikenna.

First of all, your car dosent have fan belt, since it has electric radiator cooling fan instead, not mechanical or viscous fan. It could be the fan that drives Alternator, water pump, PAS pump or A/C compressor that broke.

When you said you replaced the ECU (aka brainbox) with 170k, it really got me confused. You mean you replaced only a car ecu with 170k? Thats outragious! Even if you replaced the whole engine harness & sensors in the vehicle, should that cost that much for Peugeot 307? Besides, ecu dosent just die like that. If actually it died & was the cause for the car refusing to start, then, there must have been a wrong connection somewhere done by someone that blew the ecu or that the ecu was actually not faulty, but while fixing the purchased ecu, the rewire that did the replacing job found the culprit, fixed it, but didnt tell you. If the ecu plug/wiring connector becomes loose on the ecu, the engine wont start until when the plug is pushed in properlly in the ecu. If the ckp (crankshaft position sensor) plug becomes loose on the sensor as well, it would develop the same symptom of car not starting. I have had similar issue before & loosed ckp plug was the culprit.

You said your car hard start when engine is hot. I have had similar issue before. I would check the cts (coolant temperature sensor) & its harness (wires) if I were you. If the cts starts failing, it could exhibit such symptom. If one of the cts wires on the wiring connector breaks, it could cause a similar symptom. If the cts plug is not pushed in properly, it could cause it. Since rewires have played football in your engine bay, when trying to diagnose the cause of the car not starting, its possible one of them could have mess with the cts harness. The cts is normally located on the thermostart housing.

If the cts is ok & the car still woundnt start when engine is hot, bypass the postive wire on the ignition coil & draw current from battery positive terminal head & clank the engine & see what happens. If it starts, then is an ignition issue. You will then take it from there.

The truth is, the engine harness has been tampered or messed with, maybe, with one or two of the clowns you opened your car bonnet for to fix the hard starting issue.

If the two engine belts broke within a short period, then something is wrong. If i may ask you, did you replace the water pump when you replaced the broken timing belt? If you didnt do so, then the problem that made the timing belt to break might still be there, which is the water pump. Water pump should be replaced while changing timing belt. unless you have money to replace the engine valves & do valve job again, sooner than you expect.

Ikenna.

@ VolvoS60. You forgot to mention Valeo. Remember Valeo clutch plate, distributor condenser & rotor,etc.

Also about the spark plug, its Equem (I think so).

Ikenna.

@Blank. If I were you, I would go for 406. 406 is more rugged & handles better than the 407. But since you are a lady, the two 406 qualities i mentioned above might not matter, since i believe you are after moblity: point A to point B, might not be interested in driving pleasure.

But you should know that Peugeot seized to be Peugeot after the production of 505 stopped in 1992. That is, you cannot compare Peugeot RWD cars produced which stopped with 505 & FWD Peugeots produced from 405 till date.  the gap in the difference is so wide. But one thing common with all Peugeots (both RWD & FWD) is their good road handling qualities. They are one of the best brands in designing good chassis that ensures good road handling. You should also know that Peugeot produced a unique Shock absorber which was Patented, used from 504s, which are rebuildable, unlike other brands. I wouldnt know if their recent products (406 & 407) have rebuildable shocks.

Ikenna.

@ VolvoS60,

I also inherited '76 504 GL from dad in my University days. The car was a "NEVER SAY DIE". The performance with the bullet-proofed engine (XN1) was so impressive that enjoyed the car till i graduated. Even after 30 years, it still had the original engine. The independent rear differential/axle in it made it a very good road handling vehicle. In fact, it was the car that made me a Peugeot man. It was that that lead my purchasing my first car, 505 V6 5-sp manual, THE KING OF THE LIONS! I love that car so much that i would do anything to keep it on the road, as long as it takes.

Ikenna.

@Gulfer. The preventative maintenance is not achievable by visiting auto-workshop now & then. Its YOU. First, you need to arm yourself with the car owner's manual. You need to keep to instruction in the manual, check & replace according to the instructions in the manual. You also go beyond the manual by checking stuff not mentioned in the manual. For me, i dont need the manual to tell me when to replace the brake pads. The level that the brake pedal goes down is enough for me to know the pads has worn. If the manual says "use coolant only" for the cooling system. Keep to that. Thats one of the preventative maintenance. If water is used, it will form rusty water & corrode the engine walls which will lead to overheating of engine, improper engine lubrication (because water takes longer time to warm to engine operating temperature, thereby making the engine to always run cold) & eventually engine failure. Also, ask people experienced enough to know how to tell a sign of parts failure in a car. Nearly all car parts or components give signs before they fail. You just have to look out for it, if you experienced enough to know.

Ikenna.

@Gulfer. The car consumed only 46 litres for the 653 km journey. That makes it N3,500 worth of fuel. I was really impressed for getting such a good fuel economy from V6.

@Siena. I have made contact with someone that sells used parts (belgium) at Onitsha. He will be sending the ecu next week to me. The 605 is good but the 505 is more fun to drive on long distance. Its an amazing car. I pray & hope that the overfueling issue will soon be over. Will keep you updated.

Ikenna.

I planned to take my BABY, Peugeot 505 V6 5-speed manual, for the Xmas holiday trip to East. But I didnt trust the govt, since they had announced earlier that they may increase the price of PMS in early January 2012. Which they eventually kept their promise, with the New year gift, 1st January, 2012. Anyway, i got discouraged to use the 505 V6 for the trip, since i was yet to fix the injection issue with the car that overfuels the engine. So it would be more economical to use my 2nd car, Peugeot 605 V6 5-speed manual, for the trip. Don't get me wrong. Peugeot 605 is a great car and handles well on speed. But the 505 V6 5sp is more fun to drive when on high speed.

On 30/12/2011, I drove off the 605 V6 & headed to Enugu. After about 5 hrs hi speed drive (after Lokoja, still in Kogi state), the clutch cable broke. Hmm! It wasnt funny at all. In the middle of no where! I was angry with my self. Why? Because i did not prepare the car for the journey. In my 505, i have all kinds of wearable parts that can strand one on high way, if failed. So that i can easily replace the parts and carry on with journey. But because it was a dying minute decision to use the 605 instead ( which i recently purchased 2 months ago), i didnt have chance to purchase such parts and put in the car, such as a spare clutch cable. I was 2 or 3 kilometers away from a village i just drove past in that Kogi state. I left the car there and trecked back to the village. I got to a roadside mechanic workshop. After my explanation of what happened to the car to the mechanic, the first question he asked me was "Do I have a spare clutch cable?" I knew then that i was in for it. It was obvious to me that i would not get such car clutch cable in such a village or vicinity. And I still have another 3 or 4 hrs drive to get to Enugu city. Well, i had no option than to take the bull by the horn. Thanks to the manual transmisssion, the knowledge and experience i have in driving manual transmission without using clucth pedal.

I drove off again ( without using the clutch). It was a nightmare when i finally got to Obollo Afor and met a terrible traffic jam, icluding 9th Mile, Enugu (in that car's condition).

To cut the story short, i finally reached Enugu city by 6pm that day. I spend the night at Enugu town and the next day, i took the car to Coal Camp (Tinker) and replaced the broken clutch cable. I also bought a spare clutch cable (since I have learnt my lessons). It was after replacing the cable that i realised that i was the cause of the nightmare i had the previous day with the car. The clutch pedal became soft immediately the cable was replaced. Since i purchased the car, the clutch pedal had been so had, i mean, very hard to depress (though not as soft as my 505 V6 clutch pedal, which is hydraulically controlled, not cable, likewise, with most of the manual trans cars i have used before). So i thought that cable clutch pedals are generally very hard to depress, not knowing that the very hardnesss of the clutch pedal of the 605 was a sign that the cable was about to fail, but i ignored it. Well, i learnt my lesson in a hard way.

The reason for my story is the advantage of PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE! If i had investigated to know if it was ok for a cable controlled clutch system to be that too hard to depress, i would have known it was a sign of cable or clutch pressure plate failing and replaced the cable first, which would have fix the problem.

And the second thing to learn from the story is always ensure that you have some wearable spare parts, especially the electrical components that if failed, could render a car immobile on higway such as ignition coils, rotor, amplifier/ignition module, engine belts, spare relay, fuel pump, clutch slave cylinder master kits/rubbers or clutch cable,etc. But if you are actually the PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE type, your car will hardly strand you on long distance journey.

Ikenna.

If you actually the ECU is the problem with the car, then something is wrong with the harness(wrong connection or short circuit). But I still do not understand what you mean by ECU blowing up. it exploded or what?

Ikenna.

Siena, come to think of it. If his mechanic or rewire knows what he is doing, how could he exclude ecu(s) from the list of items to purchase? Is he trying to claim that the fire incident didnot affect any of them? It sounds ridiculors to me. Unless the engine in question is fuel carburretted.

As for the person that adviced him to just scrap the car, thats too harsh to me. Even though you are trying to help, but understand the situation to know how to put your words. I have been in that situation & have not completely come out of it. I know what is like to purchase a car with hundreds of thousands or a million plus, only for stupid mechanic to render the car immobile within a short while of ownership. Do you expect him to just get rid of it & expect him to sleep well at night without creating himself a severe high bp? It can be very painful, i can tell you that. You will only understand if it has happened to you. Yes, what you suggested might be the right thing for him to do, but the manner you lay it down to him matters. Like Siena did, he first in a mild way, explained what he will be getting himself into if he is to continue with the restoration, not just the cost, but implications. Its now let for him to examine himself if he is go into it or find another alternative like i did. He needs consolation. Scrapping the car wont get him another car. Do you think he has enough money to purchase another tokunbo & refused to do so, but preferred to risk fixing this one? Am just putting myself in his shoes!

Ikenna

I can feel you. I had a similar experience. Its not that easy to complete engine harness. I have been searching for one too. But at a point, i built one myself. With a wiring diagram, you can build an engine harness, from ecu(s) to sensors/components on engine or in engine bay. In my case, the previous wrong ecu-engine harnes connections damaged the car injection ecu which is now overfueling the engine. So, am seriously searching for a working injection ecu of the car.

The best way to address your car issue is to get a parts car. You just swap all the wires from the parts car in the engine bay to your car. With that, you will ensure that all wires are complete and are attached, fixed or plugged in where they are suppose to be. Talking from experience. Trust me! Even if you get a complete engine harnes, the rewire to do the work might end up connecting the harness wrongly or bypassing some engine sensors, as long as the engine would start and run. How it runs is not his problem. Unless you can get the wiring diagram, i would advice you to do it yourself (if you can) or you supervise the rewire while doing the harness job.

Ikenna.

jodeci:
the[b] transporter[/b] made my Bimmer popular.

You mean Transporter 1? Transporter 2 was Audi.

Ikenna.

The movie that made my car, Peugeot 605, popular is RONIN too 

As you can see on the image you posted. The car chasing the Audi, which is by the left side of the Audi on the image, is Peugeot 605 series 2. They were more than one 605s on the chase. It was an interesting movie. Of course, its Robert de Niro. What do we expect.


Ikenna.

That was why i first, in my first post here, suggested that he starts with ignition coil & fuel pump relays. The relay could be failing intermittently. Jumping the relay will prove if the culprit is the coil or the relay. It could also tell if the ckp or other ignition components is the culprit. Dont forget that connections or wire(s) could break and be doing partial contact.

Ikenna

Costee:
Here's what the codes say of your car on P1320:
Possible causes
- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted
- Ignition primary circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Faulty ignition system condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor circuit
Possible solution
The most common cause of the problem is the ignition coils
I guess that's what your scan guy meant by a faulty distributor. So you may go ahead and tackle that problem.
As for P0141 that refers to the secondary (or oxygen) sensor on bank 1 ( that is right or rear, depending on the configuration of your car--your mechanic would know). Anyway, he's probably correct in saying the main culprit is P1320, for the malfunction of the coils may trigger off the 02 code. That can be ascertained by erasing the 02 code if still present after addressing the coil issue.
Hey, let me warn that I'm no auto tech, just an enthusiast. Let the main gurus evaluate my observations. Good luck.

If the engine revs & moves well when the engine is working, then the ignition coil is not the problem. Bad igntion coil wont allow the engine to rev close to red line. It wont also rev smoothly.

Ikenna.

It depends on your car, Honda, wiring system. On Peugeot cars, like 2 of my cars, they have sensor on all their radiators, known as radiator sensors. The electric radiator fans & A/C fans are connected to the radiator sensor. The sensor serves as a trigger or switch to the fans. When you start the engine. The temp will still be cold or warm. The fans will be off. When the temp rises to beyond the normal engine operating temp (when you are in traffic jam or the car stationary & engine idling), the thermostat will open, & the hot coolant in the engine walls & cylinder heads, with the help of water pump, will flow into the radiator, while the cold or warm coolant in the radiator will flow into the engine walls. As soon as the thermostat senses or feels the coolant with lower temp, it will close & the coolant will remain in the engine walls. When the hot coolant flows into the radiator, the radiator sensor will sense the hot or high temp coolant. The radiator sensor will then switch on the radiator fans & sometimes the A/C condenser fans, to cool the hot coolant in the radiator. After some seconds or a minute, the coolant temp in the radiator will come low & the sensor will switch off the fans, since the radiator temp has come down to low temp. The fans will remain off for a long time until the thermostat opens again, if the car remains stationary/not moving while engine is on. Breeze that comes in through car front grille while car is moving, especially while on speed, is enough to cool both coolant in the radiator & coolant in the engine walls . So if the car is moving, the thermostat will not open & the fans wont spin. It ensure the lifespan of the fan motor.

But am not sure Hondas have radiator sensor. I think they use CTS (coolant Temperature Sensor) or temperature sensor on thermostat housing to trigger on/switch on the radiator electric cooling fans. If your fans runs constantly, it could be that it has been bypassed & connected to ignition switch to run whenever the ignition is switched on.

Also remember that if the tthermostat is removed, the engine will always run cold & the cts will always send signal to ecu that the engine is always cold. Cts determines the amount of fuel that goes into the combustion chambers via injectors, when engine cold & hot. Engine needs excess fuel to start a cold engine. Cts that senses temperature of coolant, will signal to ecu when starting a cold engine that the engine is cold. The ecu will command injectors to spray in excess fuel for the engine to be able to start, when clanking a cold engine. But when the coolant temp risese, with the help of thermostat, the cts will sense the high coolant temp & will signal to ecu the hot temp of the engine & the ecu will lean or reduce the amount of fuel that injectors spray into the cylinders. That is why thermostat are put in the cooling systems to warm the coolant for cts to lean fuel into the engine. So if thermostat is removed, the cts will always signal to ecu that engine is cold (even if the car has run for two hrs) & the ecu will always command the injectors to spray in excess fuel, believing that the engine is cold all the time. So, thats why removal of thermostat makes engine to consume excess fuel via cts.

Hope that helps?

Ikenna.

How fo you mean Ikeyman? What made you think am right?

Ikenna.

dagboss:
I own a BMW 3 series (COJA) sold recently, a Peugeot 307, a Volvo 940, a Ford Explorer and a Mazda MPV

The main consideration for all is that armed robbers and auto thieves will hiss at their sight and continue to look for their favorites, hence 24 hours a day i feel conformable to drive any of them anywhere and anytime finis.

Welcome to my world too

Ikenna.