₦airaland Forum

Exchange What!!!?? You must be joking! Both my two Lions: 505 V6 & 605 V6, are 5 speed manuals. Am not the auto trans type! So, even if iam to purchase your lion, definitely, would convert it to manual soon. I cant imagine driving a V6 RWD that is not manual, considering such a good road handling car like foreign assembled low ground clearance 505. Not possible. Whats the fun then in having a V6 if i dont get to get the full V6 power on the wheels? But some would prefer auto anyway.

I still maintain, if i have my way now, if miracle happens tonight or tomorrow, you would see me in your house in Lagos for inspection & possibly purchase at once. I still prefer your I4 505 GTI to my 605 V6. Road handling of 505 on top speed on higway is out of this world. I have driven my two cars several times to East & Lagos from Abuja. But whenever am driving the 505 on long distance journeys, i would always be giggling like a girl on the steering till i reach my destination.   I love long distance driving. My 505 makes it fun for me!

Foreign assembled 505 was a wonderful production. Those were days when peugeot was peugeot; when engineers were producing their cars not their accountants. No one would understand what am saying until he or she drives a foreign assembled 505, not PAN production.

Hey! Is like am marketing this car for you! Guys if una no rush pick dis Lion and i jam money tonite, i no go waste time carry am o!.

Ikenna.

netwalker:
The 505 GTI was the last of the great 505 series manufactured, (this one was manufactured in 1991). A cross between modern technology and oold ruggedness, it comes with a Renault engine, an automatic transmission, fuel injection, sensoring and air flow metering. The reputation of the 505 for being the workhorse of Africa is fully upheld by this car, I use it to travel a lot, and it holds the road and eats up the miles along Naija's generally horrible roads wonderfully well.

Yes, the engine bay pic shows that its EFI & also a ZDJL 130 hp Douvrin engine. The car is also a 2nd series (face-lifted)  505 GTI. The best version of 505 productions, in terms of good road handling, engine ouput & driving pleasures derived when driving it, aside the 505 V6. It also have LSD (Limited slip differential), which other 505 models lack, except the non-ABS 505 V6s & Turbos. The LSD makes the GTI very predictable when negotiating a bend or steering away from a pothole on high speed, considering our terrible high ways. I can go on & on.

Point of correction. The engine in the car is not a Renault engine like you said, which Nigerian Peugeot mechanics would call it. Its known as "Douvrin"engine. The Douvrin is a name of a town in France. The engine was co-produced by Peugeot & Renault, in a Plant in Douvrin town, set up by Peugeot & Renault, before Volvo later joined the company, hence the PRV (Peugeot, Renault & Volvo), where V6 engine in Peugeot 505, 605, Renault 25 & Volvo 760 GLE was also produced. The Douvrin engine, ZDJL, I4 2.2L 130 bhp, was used in both Peugeot 505 GTIs and some Renault cars.

Where do you stay? Are you in Abuja? If you have started this thread earlier before now, maybe,  i would have gone for this car, than the 605 V6 % speed manual i recently purchased? Unless, if you would agree that we exchange both cars.

Oh! I own a 505 V6 5 speed manual too. Damn! I love that car. I wouldnt mind to have a GTI like yours beside it as mine too. I would recommend the car to any interested buyer, if it checks out after inspection. I would go for it, honestly, if i had the pepper now. So sad!

Ikenna.

What kind of engine does the 505 GTI have? Is it ZDJL (2.2 EFI I4) engine or the popular XN1(A) (fuel carburetted engine)? What is the series? Is it the 1st seires GTI or the face-lifted 505 GTI?

Ikenna.

We need pics.

Ikenna.

more

more

more

More pics

Attached are the pics.

Ikenna.

thirdi:
@Ikenna351 Please kindly send me the Pictures through my email address emma21ng@yahoo.com I will be mighty grateful

I have sent you the pics. Have you received the mail?

Yes. Kunle is right. It would be easier to just get a condemned caty converter, open it, remove all the stuff inside & close/weld it back. You then attached or fix in the converter on the exhaust & bolt in the o2 sensor. But you will still have to buy and do some welding work on the condemned caty converter anyway, which you might end up spending close to the method i suggested earlier.

In North America, there is something they call o2 Bung. Its like a nut that sizes o2 sensor. So what Americans do when their caty converter fail is to purchase the bung (as cheap as N100), remove the caty, weld in pipe in place of the caty, create a small hole that will size the bung on the pipe, weld in the bung on the pipe & bolt in the o2 sensor. If you have anyone there, you can have the person purchase & send the bung to you. Its as cheap as anything you can imagine.

If you need the pics of how i did mine, post your email address. Though, i will try and resize the pics/images. As soon as am done, i will attach them here.

Ikenna.

Congrats!

Ikenna.

Sorry guys for these clowns have put you guys through.

The cause of of the high fuel consumption is not becuase of the absence of the caty converter, but because of absence of o2 sensor attached on the caty. If I were you guys, I wont bother to put back the Caty. Why? Because its a blessing to run your car without the caty. Your engine would be more responsive without caty converter & there would be a noticeable improvement in the fuel economy, better than when it had the caty converter. The caty converter reduces engine output & hinders car good fuel economy. Thats why i regard those thieves that stole your caty as clowns, because they donot understand what they did. Caty is installed in western world to control emission. Is even against the law to run a vehicle without it, especially in North America.

How then would you solve the car running rich issue (excessive fuel -black smoke)? Simply, install back the oxygen sensor is the solution. You musnt attach the o2 sensor on Catalytic converter for the sensor to work. I did it on mine & it worked, & still working till date. What you need to do is to go auto used spare market, look for a condemned exhaust that has o2 sensor hole on it or a damaged or dead caty converter, with the hole for the sensor still intact. Buy the condemned part of the exhaust pipe with the hole of the o2. You need the hole with o2 thread for the sensor to screw in. Cut out the part of the exhaust pipe that has the hole, take it to a welder. Ask the welder to measure the pipe you cut (with the hole for o2), cut the exhaust pipe of the car with the measurement he gets from the pipe you bought & weld in the pipe with the o2 sensor to the exhaust pipe of the car. Pls, it should be done on exhaust pipe close to the engine or the particular location of the exhaust pipe where the catalytic converter was before. If the pipe you bought wont match with the pipe in the car, cut out, in circle, the hole of the o2 from the pipe, create a hole on the car exhaust & weld in the thread of the sensor on the car exhaust pipe. I hope my explanation is not confusing?

After the welding job, you will then have to purchase the o2 sensor. Its a little bit expensive. I bought mine brand new, a Bosch Universal 4- wire o2 sensor. The price was between 10 & 15k. Unless you want to try a used one, i would advice you to get a new one. Most modern cars have 4-wire o2 sensor that has heater. Or you can google it to know the type that your car should have. When you get the sensor, screw it in the constructed hole. The harness & the plug should be hanging around the location of the catalytic converter (believing that the sensor ws unplugged when the stole the catalytic converter). When you find the sensor plug, plug it in & all the black smoke, overfueling, rich running or high fuel consumption will be a thing of the past. You will even start enjoying the car engine performance more than when it has caty, with better fuel economy.

If you think you cant go through this conversion, you can go & search for the caty which is very expensive & you might end getting a clogged/dead one, which would worsen the situation you are in now.

I took pics of mine when i did my own o2 sensor construction job on the exhaust pipe. But they are too large & cant be attached here. It would have helped you guys in guiding you on how to do it or instruct the welder what to do. Goodluck.

Ikenna.

Which one be nozzle? Please there is nothing like nozzle in an EFI engine. I believe you mean Injector.

EGR, Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, that sits between exhaust and intake manifold, depending on the engine design. It controls emission.

Dont bother with the Injectors. They are unlikely to be the cause. Its likely a failed sensor or unplugged sensor. Have you scanned the car? If you cant afford the scanning, it can still be diagnosed but you would need to be equal to the task to do the elimination process. What i mean is by checking the values & conditions of the possible engine sensors that would cause overfueling when failed. First, you would need to know the factory readings of the sensors and compare with those in your car. You need to arm yourself with a multimeter( that is if you know how to use it).

In addition to the components ba_aliyah listed above, the following components would give similar symptom, if failed:
- Air Flow Meter (AFM)
- Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
- Electronic Control Unit (ECU- aka brainbox). But this hardly is the culprit. It should be the last to check.

I can guide step by step on how to check all these mentioned. But do you think you can handle that? Can you identify the components on the engine? To be honest, if you can afford the scanning ( which is about 5k), it would be much better.

CHeck if the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) plug is still well attached to the sensor, likewise the o2 & AFM sensors. The CTS should be on the thermostat housing, the AFM should be on the intake manifold tube (tube that leads from air filter box to the throttle body) & the o2 sensor should be on the exhaust manifold(s) or Catalytic converter, depending on the engine type (V6 or I4).

Ikenna.

purefella:
I can boldly say it that it's only Somatic that understand me properly , First ask yourself if that topic says Manual Vehicles Drivers are cursed people most of you that are annoyed with my post needs to buy and read a book at least A to Z common mistakes in English for beginners

I chooses that topic and use the word Curse to get what i wanted to know , grab the attention of people so that i can achieve what i wanted so many vital questions has been asked in this forum with no responses and i think you guys should have been used to it from the front cover of magazines and newspapers you read daily that the way a word is stated in the cover front doesn't mean the content of the true story rhymes with it

and finally i got what i wanted  and it doesn't mean i won't repeat the same in all of my future posts , infact it will only make me use such words more often

and finally from what i gathered i would say people sometimes like the inconvenient over the convenient and the uneasy over the easy and there are some people who enjoys things better if only they can use there own manpower to put it to work

If i get more positive replies i will appreciate it a lot and please note i am not abusing anybody
Thanks

Something is definitely wrong with this fellow upstairs.

Ikenna.

Which one be nozzle? Please there is nothing like nozzle in an EFI engine. I believe you mean Injector.

EGR, Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, that sits between exhaust and intake manifold, depending on the engine design. It controls emission.

Dont bother with the Injectors. They are unlikely to be the cause. Its likely a failed sensor or unplugged sensor. Have you scanned the car? If you cant afford the scanning, it can still be diagnosed but you would need to be equal to the task to do the elimination process. What i mean is by checking the values & conditions of the possible engine sensors that would cause overfueling when failed. First, you would need to know the factory readings of the sensors and compare with those in your car. You need to arm yourself with a multimeter( that is if you know how to use it).

In addition to the components ba_aliyah listed above, the following components would give similar symptom, if failed:
- Air Flow Meter (AFM)
- Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
- Electronic Control Unit (ECU- aka brainbox). But this hardly is the culprit. It should be the last to check.

I can guide step by step on how to check all these mentioned. But do you think you can handle that? Can you identify the components on the engine? To be honest, if you can afford the scanning ( which is about 5k), it would be much better.

CHeck if the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) plug is still well attached to the sensor, likewise the o2 & AFM sensors. The CTS should be on the thermostat housing, the AFM should be on the intake manifold tube (tube that leads from air filter box to the throttle body) & the o2 sensor should be on the exhaust manifold(s) or Catalytic converter, depending on the engine type (V6 or I4).

Ikenna.

Somatic:
@Ikenna? No need to be unduly vexed. The poor guy was just stating his feelings tho his choice of word leaves much to be desired. I believe he didn't mean to insult manual transmission users hence the 'question'.

@OP whether online and in real life interactions, please learn to pick yhur words appropriately so as not to be subject to misinterpretations from readers/listeners.

Like a poster rightly said, to each his own. Whatever rocks yhur boat( or in this case moves yhur vehicle,l )use it. Cheers.

Sorry guys. I guess I overreacted. To be honest, my earlier post was a transfer aggression. A colleague upset me this morning at the office. So when when i saw this thread, I lost it. LOl

Anyway, Poster, pls next time, ask from Manual trans users like myself, what make them to be so passionate about or love manual tranny, in a polite manner and it would be explained to you. You don't have to make them angry to get true responses and explanations from them. Your post sounded so immature, as if you are a teenager. Or are you?

Ikenna.

What kind of foolish, stupid & silly thread is this? Poster, that you are too lazy & lack the knowledge of proper clutch application/engagement, shouldnt give you the right to regard those that know better than you do as "cursed". This thread is very irritating.

Please keep to your auto trans & shut your trap!

Ikenna.

Did you work or did anything in the engine bay before you noticed your car was running rich & emitting black smoke from the exhaust tail? If you did, what was it?

Meanwhile, its good you scan the car.

Ikenna.

@ Chelseabmw. Couldnt you have explained to him why you think he should go for Camry? Remember, he wants & needs reasons, as stated in his post.

Ikenna.

@ Sultaan. It also sounded weird to me. For a timing belt to be the cause, though, I really dont know much about this timing belt thing. Mine is timing chain. But that as it may, it could also suggest that the belt is weak. So the best option is replacement, together with the tensioner & water pump. What do you think?

Ikenna.

Oh! One more thing. Toyota Camry has a resale value, incase you want to resale, unlike Peugeot.

Ikenna.

It depends on what you want out of a car. If you want just a car, a reliable one, with good fuel economy, go for the Toyota Camry.

But if you want not just a car, but also a ride, with full driving pleasure, good fuel economy, very rugged & suitable for Nigerian terrible highways, very very VERY durable, but no so reliable (meaning it has to be regulary/religiously serviced by a competent updated Peugeut auto mechanic for modern Peugeots), then go for the Peugeot 406. Be cautioned, "do not play with Peugeot electrics". Peugeots dont tolerate quack rewires who dont understand Peugeot electrics. Any wrong connection of wires in a Peugeot would start a life of NIGHTMARE for you. Be warned!

For me, I would choose Peugeot 406 over Toyota Camry, anyday, anytime, over & over again. I have my reasons. You would understand, if  you were a car enthusiast.

Toyota Camry is good. Peugeot 406 is better. But if you know you cant keep to the "do's & Dont's" of Peugeots, I would advice you to go for Camry, for piece of mind.

Ikenna.

Congrats! Am happy your car issue has been sorted out.

Do you mean " timing chain"? If that is what you mean, then I would correct you that your car engine dosent have timing chain, but timing belt.

Ikenna.

I renewed my vehicle papers (Vehicle Licence, Insurance & Road worthiness) last week,after the strike, here in Abuja. It cost me only N8,500 (Eight thousand, five hundred Naira). I went to VIO office at Mabushi myself and did the renewal, not through anyone or agent. And it didnt take me more than 30 mins to finish everything.

The breakdown is as follows:

Vehicle Licence: N1,800
Road worthiness: N1,700
Insurance (Third Party): N5,000


About the new Licence, they told me there that its only for sale for new registration. That the suspension of the change of old plate number to new one by the House of Reps still stand, pending when the House says otherwise or the issue is resolved. Unless you want to waste your money by insisting on buying the new plate, to replace the old one, which many people do ignorantly or want their plate number to have the new look, to make it look as if they just purchased the car.

Ikenna.

Siena:
Hello guys!

Hope you're all doing great, and coping with the issues afflicting our dear country.

I have decided to start a second project. Keen Motorsport fans will remember how Audi dominated the BTCC (British Touring Car Championship) back in the '90's. Audi kicked off with the B4 Audi 80 Quattro. The rules of the BTCC were simple - maximum engine capacity, and no turbochargers or superchargers. So all the cars were 2,0 I4 engines.

Power output of the cars were in the 270 bhp range. The Audi A4 Quattro replaced the Audi 80 in 1996 in the BTCC, with similar engine spec. The 2,0 16V engine used in the A4 was unlike no other in terms of the regular road cars. There were no 16V engines in production A4's, indeed there were no 2,0 versions. With AWD, the Audi A4 was the heaviest car in the series.

The manufacturer entrants were as followed:

01) Vauxhall Vectra 2,0 16V
02) Renault Laguna 2,0 16V
03) Volvo 850 2,0 20V
04) Peugeot 406 2,0 16V
05) Ford Mondeo 2,0 16V
06) Honda Accord 2,0 16V
07) Nissan Primera 2,0 16V
08) Toyota Carina 2,0 16V
09) Vauxhall Cavalier 2,0 16V
10) BMW 320i
11) Audi A4 2,0 16V

I wonder what Toyota was doing in that rally. Hope it didnt win the last position? Lol!

Anyway, I have heard so much about the performance of Audis in various rallies or car race. From what i have gathered, Audi is truelly a German MACHINE!!

Nice thread! Keep us updated.

Ikenna.

Last week, my daily driver had a flat tyre. I remove it and put the spare tyre. I took the flat tyre to a tyre Vulcanizer. After fixing the tyre leak, I asked him what pressure gauge he leaved it at. He said 40 psi. I told him that i would prefer that he reduced the pressure to 33 psi, as the factory recommended for the R15 195/65 88H. Well he maintained that the 40 psi was ok for the tire size. Because i didnt have tyre pressure guage to reduce it on my own, i let it be. I paid for the job, collected the tyre and headed to APO mechanic village to get prices of 505 parts I needed to purchase this week and send to friends in USA & New Zealand that needed the parts to keep their 505s on the road (due to unavailability of 505 parts overthere, especially in North America). I also decided to use that opportunity to purchase and have my own Tyre air pressure guage. I found two types in the market: clock type & metal pen type (one usually seen and used by our tyre vulcanizers). The pen type is of two grades: the one of N1000 & the one N600. I purchase the one of 1k because the superior quality was so glaring/obvious. I think the brand is PCL. Anyway, I got home and tested it on the tyre that was fixed that day. What i saw on the guage gave me the shock of my life. 60 psi !! This was the tyre the tyre vulcanizer said he left it at 40 psi. Luckly for me, i was still running on the spare tyre. Had it been i have mounted the tyre on the car, maybe it would have exploded. Hmm! I quickly reduced it to 33 psi.

Underinflated & overinflated tyres contribute a lot to high fuel consumption of our various vehicles. They also reduce the lifespan of our tyres. We can save a lot headache by having tyre pressure guage & checking the tyre pressures everytime those clowns touch our tyres. If you have the guage, you can be checking your tyre pressures, at least, once every week to know when to add air to the tyre(s), if need be. Maintaining the factory recommended tyre pressure would ensure the sustainability of the good fuel economy of the car & prolong the tyre's lifespan.

Get the tyre air pressure guage. 1k or N600 is not too much.

Ikenna.

Guys, I saw peugeot 508 an hour ago, packed very close to my office. I didnt know it has entered Nigerian market. The car makes sence!

Ikenna.

@ Pak,

Am not an auto engr or mechanic. Am just a car owner like you. I gained the knowledge i have in autos by fixing my car myself (DIY), through the guildance of Siena and others, and most importantly: INTEREST.

Is your EOD V6? If its V6, each of the 2 exhaust manifolds has catalytic converter attached on them. Exhaust manifold is that big cast pipe on the cylinder head that the exhaust pipe that goes under the car to the car tail, is attached to. The catalytic converter, then, is that thing that looks like small mufler or exhaust pot on the exhaust pipe in the engine bay, very close to the exhaust manifold (if the car is V6). If your EOD is Inline 4, then it will have only one catalytic converter under, at the middle of the car (that looks like exhaust pot/muffler too). Likewise the EOD V6 has caty converter under the car too, making them 3. Each caty converter has o2 sensor (oxygen sensor) attached to them.

Coolant Temperature sensor (CTS) is different from Temperature guage sender that controls Temperature guage on Instrument cluster (aka speed clock or dashboard by Nigerians). CTS has two wires, while most temp sender I know of have only one wire. In some cars, the cts also controls the electric radiator cooling fan(s). So, yes, when the temp guage on the instrument cluster is close to middle or at the middle of the guage, thats the normal engine operating temperature. Thats is when the electric radiator cooling fan should come on, when it tries to go beyond the middle of the temp guage, and the fans would shut off again when the needle falls back to the middle of the temp guage.


Yes, I would advice you to re-scan the car and post the error code(s). Thank God we have Siena here who is better knowledged in interpreting error codes and with better solutions on how to tackle issues.

If I may ask, you said the car is peppering the eye. Is it only when you are inside the car that it peppers your eyes? Does it also peppers the eyes when you are outside the car, while the engine is idling? If it peppers the eyes both when you are inside & outside the car, then we are in the right course of diagnosis. But if its only when you are inside the car, then you have exhaust leakage.


Ikenna.

@ nissparts,

Point of correction. If your V6 engine has timing chain, then, you have no business with the part of the engine where the timing chains are. Like my two cars that are all V6s, both have timing chains. Each bank of the cylinder head has a single timing chain, thus, two timing chains per engine, making the chains less stressful while in functions. Of all the reviews of Peugeot 505 V6 & 605 V6 i have read, no place was mentioned that anyone replaced its engine timing chains of both the cars (ZN3J & ZPJ), even the ones that have clocked 600,000 miles. Unless you are telling us that Nissan V6 timing chain engines are not reliable & durable like other brands. Timing chains in V6 engines outlive the cars lifespan. Prove me wrong. Worst case scenario, you re-adjust the chain, since they all have components installed to be used to adjust the chains.

V6 is the best in terms of performance & favorable fuel economy, unlike the V8, V10 & V12. The fuel consumption difference btw I4 & V6 is insignificant, and yet you get more driving pleasure and power from the V6. I have used both and realised how much i missed while i was in the I4 world. V6 world is a world i cant imagine myself leaving again.

Ikenna.

Somatic:
@Ikenna: I didn't mean to say the 504 2000 came with the same engine as the French made GL. Rather, its engine was similar to the PAN's GR and SR models. I was never much of a mechanic to dabble into engine sizes and capacities tho our drivers but emeka mechanic tesified to the power of dad's green car over the GR and best line. My observation then stemmed from the most modern at the time and the fact that green car went to the mech than the others. Looking back now, I wish we still retained that 504. Its still running tho in bad shape. The other two, 1 auctioned off, dunno wherr the other is.

Yes, you are right. The engines of L, SR, & GR 504 are similar to engine of 504 GL, but not identical. 504 L, SR & GR engines are 1.8cc with smaller size piston & sleeves, hence, the single barrell carburretor. The engine in 504 GL is 2.0cc with larger/bigger sized piston & sleeves, hence, the double barrel carburretor.

Ikenna.

[quote author=ba_aliyah link=topic=838860.msg9997679#msg9997679 date=1326961676]Good morning bros, how are you doing, have you resumed?
Pls i need your help. My car is supposed to come with Daytime running light, it s standard on 99 V6 Camry LE.
I think it was disabled before imported. I want to fix it, can you help me out.
From what i read on line, Most camrys use the Headlight Relay for the DTRL. To disable it, you just cut a pin from that relay, and replace the relay with a new one to restore the DTRL. Do you have any other information that could be of help.
Thanks.[/quote]Hi

Yes, I have resumed. What a break! A Failed state indeed!

To your problem. This is the more reason why you need to have the car's wiring diagram. The diagram would tell you how many wires would be connected to the relay, which wires should go to each relay pins. Every car wiring diagram differs from the other.

Anyway, if all the wires are there, it wont be that difficult to fix, as long as you have your test light or multimeter. I dont know how Japanese cars wiring system are, since their relays differ from Euro & American cars. What are the numbers printed on the relay? Are they 30, 85, 86 87a & 87 or 1,2,3,4,5? If that is what you have on your relay, below is how they can be be connected;

Pin 30: - LIVE wire (wire from positive Battery terminal head)
Pin 85: - ENERGISER (source wire from Headlight switch or anyother switch)
Pin 86: - GROUND wire
Pin 87a: - FEED wire (wire that feeds or triggers on the headlight or components the relay is meant to power)
Pin 87: - Same as above.

OR

Pin 1: - ENERGISER
Pin 2: - GROUND wire
Pin 3: - LIVE WIRE
Pin 4: - FEED wire
Pin 5: - Same as above.

NOw this is how to connect a relay to power whatever component you need relay to power. It can also be connected differently to serve the same purpose. But it all depends how the manufacturer of the car designed the wiring to function or power a particular component. The wiring diagram remains the only way to find out.

Ikenna.