₦airaland Forum

[quote author=alex_101]I have studied this so called mod "ikenna" and I can confidently state here that he's not in any way or form an Igbo chap. He is a ya.ri.ba masquerading as Igbo. He continues banning most Igbo posters on this forum just to silence Igbo voice. I hereby call on Seun to investigate this impostor in order for NL to regain its sanity.[/quote]I hope you know what it means to deliberately post false information in the forum? You wont get this warning next time.

You tribalists can keep crying like babies here, but make sure you dont break other forum rules while doing so.

Ikenna.

daomi: my v6 guzzle fuel.

So that's all?

Hmm! I don't know who to blame here: You or the mechanic.

Ikenna.

Finally, put back the tyre, started the car the engine was running smoothly. Drove out immediately, entered an expressway and pressed the throttle pedal to the floor. You dont need to hear the rest.

Ikenna.

more pics.

Ikenna.

more pics.

Ikenna

more pics.

Ikenna.

more pics

Ikenna

more pics.

Ikenna.

I have decided to post the timing job pics now. But will later make out time to explain the work on each of the pics.

But to summarize it, I started the work by stripping the Timing belt housing, only to discover that the belt in the car was as new as the brand new one i bought (Gates Powergrip) at the price of 13k. It was as if the previous owner replaced the timing belt shortly before he sold the car. So, i decided not to replace the belt then and keep the one i bought as spare, pending when i buy the 3 rollers and tensioner.

But, i checked the tensioner and it was ok. Then i checked the timing via the timing/cam gears with cam lock pins and the timing checked out very well. So, i coupled everything back, started the engine and everything was working fine. I took it for a drive and it was damn pulling smoothly, begging for harsh acceleration. It was a 8-9 hr job.

Find the pics attached.

* Unfortunately, some of the pics have refused to upload here. I will just post the ones that can.


Ikenna.

Sequoia: Oga Ikenna,


Can you point our exactly where the thermostat is located in those your engine pictures?

I actually have more pics that couldnt attach here, which i took with 1st phone. Those pics are well detailed. Every stage of bringing out and putting back the T-stat housing was pictured with that phone. You wouldnt have needed to ask the above question if those pics were attached/uploaded here. Even after resizing, they couldnt upload.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: D9 V6 (ES9J4S)THERMOSTAT JOB
Then, I looked at my D9 V6 and remembered that I have not installed the ES9J4S Thermostat I bought here in Abuja on 19/04/2013 at 13k. The Thermostat part number is 1338 73 and the opening temperature is 82 C.


@ Ikenna
Dont mind my asking pls but is the 406 v6 thermostat different from the EW10s? My Brother isnt 13k for a thermostat on the high side? or is there something am missing here?

You dey ask me? Lol! Thats the least price i could get it here in Abuja. Painful, but what can I do.

And yes, the ES9J4S thermostat is different from EW10 thermostat. Their part numbers differ and both have different shapes. Though, the EW10 thermostat would be cheaper. But ES9J4S and EW10 use the same CTS. The price is 4k.

The truth is, 406 original parts are pricey. For example, the front brake pad (PAN) cost 10k or so. Though, we have the one of 5k and 2k.

Ikenna.

Am yet to post the pics taken during my D9 V6 Timing Belt job. Will do that soon.

Ikenna.

Completion.

Ikenna.

T-stat re-intallation job.

Ikenna.

27/04/2013

D9 V6 (ES9J4S) THERMOSTAT RE-INSTALLATION

So, around 7:30am, i went to a nearby TOTAL fuel station and bought 9 bottles of TOTAL coolant (N3500 each) and bought a black a black adhesive. I also bought bolt to replace the bolt that gave me tough time the previous night. I then started the re-mounting of the T-stat housing with the new T-stat only installed in the housing, as you would see in the next pic to attach. I then applied the black adhesive round the T-stat seal and mounted back the T-stat housing back. I coupled back everything and was done around 11am or so. I started pouring in the coolant and was bleeding the system at the same time. The 406 V6 has 3 bleeding points for the cooling system: one bleed screw on the heater matrix coolant hose and two bleed screws (5" Allen key) on the T-stat housing. It consumed 5 bottles (5 litres) of the TOTAL coolant to refil and bled the system properly.

I then started the car. About 5 mins of engine idling, i touched the radiator upper hose and it was hot (as it should be). I then touched the lower hose, this time, it was cold. Hurrayy! I was so happy! Before, when i got the car, the lower hose would get hot with the upper hose from cold start, which was an indication that the cooling system had no thermostat or that the thermostat had failed stuck opened.

About 7-10 mins of engine idling, the temp guage needle was now at 90 C (middle of the guage), and it remianed there without exceeding the 90 C. I checked the lower hose and it was hot. Perfect!

After about 15-20 mins of engine at idle, the 2 radiator fans came on/started spinning quietly. One wouldnt even hear any noise coming from those fans, which i belived was at speed 1 or 2. I observed it for a while. The fans spinned for like 3 mins or so and swithced off. All those while, the temp guage remained at 90 C.

To be sure that i got everything right, i switched on the A/C, which i switched off before started the engine. The 2 fans started spinning again at low speed. A min later, the speed 3 (high noisy fan speed) came on. That made everthing ok/checked out. I switched off the engine, checked for any leakage of coolant on the spots i worked on and didnt see any. I closed the bonnet and ticked the Thermostat job completed.





PRV/ZN3J STARTER RE-INSTALLATION (505 V6)

Around 1:20pm, after I was done with the D9 V6 t-stat job, i brought out the ZN3J starter where i kept it the previous night, took it out and gave it to a radio technician to solder something for me on the solenoid. He did, i paid, came back to house and re-mount the starter (A hell of a job). By 2.40pm or so, the starter has been mounted. I reconnected the battery terminals, tried the ignition switch and the engine spur into life before i knew it. Phew!




So, the 2 jobs were successfully completed. Will post the pics on the completion of T-stat on Saturday, 27/04/2013.

Ikenna.

Below is the Thermostat housing when it came out (The big pipe with openings). You can see the Thermostat without metal-cylinder cover and one with the cover.

Ikenna.

Below are the pics of the T-stat housing while trying to bring it out.

Ikenna.

26/04/2013


PRV/ZN3J STARTER JOB (505 V6)

Two days ago, Friday 26/04/2013 at around 7pm, I decided to pull out my 505 V6 starter, which the solenoid has been acting up lately. But bringing out 505 V6 starter can be a nightmare. It takes about 2-3 hrs to get it out. Its just in the wrong position. Anyway, i crawled under the car and by 9pm, the starter was out. I then saw that the top-end bushing was pulling out from the casing too. So i piecesed the starter and fixed the bushing issue. The solenoid would need a led soledering at spot before i could mount it back on the car, so i left it for the next morning to get it done. It was around 10:30pm that night by the time i finished with the 505 starter.




D9 V6 (ES9J4S)THERMOSTAT JOB

Then, I looked at my D9 V6 and remembered that I have not installed the ES9J4S Thermostat I bought here in Abuja on 19/04/2013 at 13k. The Thermostat part number is 1338 73 and the opening temperature is 82 C. So, i decided to pull out the thermostat housing that same Friday night. I started the thermostat job on the D9 at 10:30pm. Getting to the thermostat housing on ES9J4S was a hell of a task. A lot of parts had to come off to get to it. When i eventually got to it, i met a terrible obstacle. Someone, an amateur, a clown, had pulled out the T-stat housing before (which i believed was when the T-stat removed, which we are about to find out). The clown worn a head of one of the three 10" bolt holding the t-stat to the engine block. Unfortunately, the clown re-used the worn bolt in re-installing the t-stat housing (what a terrible job!). Now, the bolt wouldnt loose. I tried all the spanners i had and none could open it. I left that night and went in search of various types of 10" spanners. Crazy? Yes, but i did it. I wanted that that t-stat housing out from that engine that night. I got some (will leave the details of how i got those spanners), came back, tried it again, and none could work. I lost my patience and my gentleman approach to it. So I pulled my hammer and went after it in a crude manner. 2 mins later, the damn bolt was out. Phew!

When the t-stat housing was out, as suspected, there was no thermostat and there was thermostat in the housing. Lol! Weird? Yes, very annoying what these clowns put people through, diagnosing what they dont understand. There was t-stat, but the part that covers and stop coolant from flowing back to radiator when coolant temp is not hot enough, was destroyed and removed, so that the coolant would be flowing/circulating constantly between the 2 cylinder heads, engine block and radiator, as long as the engine is running via water pump. Anyway, the T-stat came out around 1:30 am that night. I was so hungry by the time it came out. I had to arrange my dinner that same night at that time. Lol!

Will post pics for better understanding.

Ikenna.

@ eamodu,

As long as your engine has not started burning oil, its safe to switch.

By the way, oil grade you use has nothing to do with the Ant-pollution fault warning you are getting. Its an Injection issue. But note that if you overfill (overguage) your engine with engine oil, it will damage your oxygen sensor and Catalytic converter and give you Anti-pollution fault as well.

Ikenna.

Muoweta: . @ ikenna so u mentioned all peugot brand u didn't mention my 504?? E clear say e fit function with Nmanuapapa(groundnut oil). Top of d wkend 2 all lion owners

Lol!

Anyway, the recommended engine oil grade for XN1 & XN1A found in 504s & 505s is 10W 40 (either synthetic based or mineral oil). But since you cant find 10W 40 in Nigeria TOTAL fuel stations or other brands, you can use the 15W 50 (Quartz 7000). It will be good the for the engine too. But note that the XN1(A) is a rugged engine and can work well with 20W 50 (Mineral oil). In fact, i use the 20W 50 (Quartz 5000) for my ZN3J , the V6 engine in my 505 V6. Those old Peugeot engines can take any good engine oil. Only difference is that i change the oil every 6 months (according to owner's manual). But i will be switching to 15W 50W (Quartz 7000) in the next oil change, so that i will increase the oil change duration to once a year, instead of twice a year using the 20W 50.

Ikenna.

Peugeot recommends Synthetic Based Oil/Semi Synthetic Oil, 15W 50 (Quartz 7000, etc), for the following engines below:

XU7
EW7
XU10 J4R
EW10 J4
EW10 D (HPI)
ES9J4S (V6).

But the manual also stated that Fuel Economy oil/Synthetic Oil "MAY" also be used, like the 0W 40, 5W 40 (Quartz 9000, etc).


*Note that Peugeot said no to Synthetic Oils for EW12 engine. In 406 owner's manual, it states and I quote " Fuel Economy Oil cannot be used for the 2.2 Litre 16v Petrol engine & the Turbo Diesel HDI engine with particle Filter". So, if you have EW12 in your Lion, i would advice you stick to Synthetic Based Oil (15W 50).

Ikenna.

Dede1: Be on notice that I do not monkey with men. I am straight as arrow and many Yooba ladies can easily attest to the fact. My post was a compliment to the wide-eyed Tinubu not a bashing endeavor.

@ Dede1,

https://www.nairaland.com/1252090/no-more-tribal-attack-politics/7#15445449

Ikenna.

Dede1: Be on notice that I do not monkey with men. I am straight as arrow and many Yooba ladies can easily attest to the fact. My post was a compliment to the wide-eyed Tinubu not a bashing endeavor.

Its becoming very shameful how you intentionally insult the Yoruba tribe. Am yet to see any of your posts where you addressed Yorubas as Yorubas. All you do is call them Yoruba and Yooba. Am only telling this out of respect for my co-mods, because you wont get this warning next time.

I work with Nairaland Forum Rules and Regulation, and nothing more. Last time I checked, there was no such rules there that stated that Yorubas should be addressed as Yoruba or Yooba as well. Take those names to Ethnic section and teach them their Ancestral names you got from wherever. For the sake of peace in this section, don't use them again. What is so difficult for you to type Yoruba, if your intention is not to mock the Yoruba tribe? Even the Yoruba members here, including the repented tribal bigots, don't call themselves Yoruba or Yooba here.

You said you have not been banned by any moderator since you joined Nairaland, then don't get one from me. And before you start your "Who are you? You are arrogant! You are this, you are that", note that the more you guys say such things, the more motivated I become.

Ikenna.

By the way, there is this Rich man in Abuja that has lots of old Peugeot cars.

I was at APO mechanic village sometime in the past. Suddenly, a Peugeot 404 in red colour MINT condition pulled over. When i said MINT, i meant in TEAR RUBBER condition. Lol! It looked as if it was just driven out of the show room. The paint was like a mirror. I asked those around how come such car in such condition still exist in Abuja. I was told that the owner is into Lion collections. That he even had a Peugeot 403 in the same MINT condition like the 404. And that he also had other older Lions like 305, 504, etc. I was so carried away that i forgot to pull out my phone i snap the beauty. Still regretting it.

Honestly, I wished i had met the man. But they said the person on the wheel was his driver. If i have another opportunity, i would make the effort of locating the where he lives. Because i would like to go and appreciate him, for appreciating good things. Lol! I love classic cars and appreciate people that own them.

Ikenna.